Sorry for having to break this video into 2 parts. It was just so long. We’ll post the second half within the next few days. There are a lot of great brands out there, but these are just some of our favorites. We hope this video series helps. Thanks for watching!
Such a tease! Besides Allen Edmonds, y’all mentioned just one other brand. I definitely agree this video could have been way longer and still kept my attention.
I have to say that this is one of my favorite collaborations you guys have made to date. I love both content creators and enjoyed the in-depth conversations a great deal!
Hugo Jacomet is such an amazing guest. The amount of knowledge that he carries is phenomenal. The fact that he's visited so many different brands from dress shoes to suits and socks and shirts. He's simply amazing and I really enjoyed this video. Can't wait for part 2!!! Thank you for this video!
When I started in the mens clothing industry, I worked for a magnificent men's clothing store in New Jersey. The dress shoe line we carried was Alden from Massachusetts. I am still wearing a few pairs from 1987 and the 90s . I can't express what a great product and company Alden was. Except for their boots, I don't see much advertising for them anymore. I really hope the company is doing well.
I went to 9 stores today, looking for a pair of brown loafers and something didn't feel right, so everytime I left without buying anything and feeling dissatisfied. Then I went looking for an informed opinion on TH-cam and I found your channel. I'm glad I did.
I was working for the discount version of one of the high end department stores in late 89 to early 90. One of my coworkers in the men's department kept promoting Allen Edmonds and another American brand name as to what to buy for dress shoes. Working in the shoe department myself, I would see the shoes as they came in, and always looked for my size. At the time, Allen's would run $300-400 from this department store, and returns and end of stock runs would get sent to the store I worked at, and discounted by 25-40% off retail. A pair came in, simple design, what appeared to be one of the high end Oxfords. My coworker was pushing me to buy them, something didn't look right about them. Looking closer at the heel block, a corner was starting to lift, and what I noticed was the leather was a veneer. Finally pointed it out to my coworker, and he was shocked. So as early at 1989/1990. Allen Edmonds were playing around with this design on some of their lower priced shoes. This may have been a test series, I am unsure, I started noticing details of dress shoes more carefully after.
I’m impressed by Hugo’s communication skill. verbal and body language reading is superb. he knows how to engage the guys and read their body language and engage them as needed.
Your past videos explaining and showing what sets good shoes apart from throw away shoes is helping to make so many of us informed consumers. For 40+ years I basically thought of more expensive shoes as vanity accessories and a waste of money for the average person. Thanks to you and other cobblers I look at shoes with a whole new perspective. The saying goes "knowledge is power " and your willingness to share your knowledge is helping consumers take back the power because we are not dependent on shoe salesmen to tell us what is best. I love the thought of owning shoes that are worth passing along to someone instead of tossing them into the trash.
I was one of those salesman throughout the 90s and early 00s, and can say from experience in the field that not all salesman went about it the same way. Some were driven by commission, sure. I was driven by education. Knowledge is indeed power. It also led to a lot of repeat customers for myself as people wanted to show appreciation for treating them like people capable of making their own informed decisions instead of salivating over a potential close. I really appreciate the guys at Potter and Sons because they have a similar approach. Rather than looking down upon those who may be have made a less repairable choice, or a quicker wearing shoe, or whatever, they care about the person enough to take the time to explain the why. That matters to guys like me. So thank you guys. Keep it up.
I've seen Hugo Jakomet's channel before a few times and found him to be interesting. I am very pleased to see him on your channel and appreciate you guys allowing him to really articulate his point and opinions, obviously why you invited him on the show. With that said it is a extremely interesting and entertaining episode and I'm really looking forward to part two! I feel this episode was done very well and once again thoroughly enjoyed.....
I'm one of those guys who speaks up strongly for Allen Edmonds' brand, simply because I wear a 15D, and I can find VARIETY in my size with them... in more than ONE last style. I see the QC isn't where it needs to be at, but I take advantages of the sales too. So, many of the "concerns" can be corrected when they go to the cobbler for a new sole. If AE is smart, the corners cut are only done in places which can be EASILY fixed: Sole leather; edge sanding, compressed leather fiber heal blocks are examples (but I don't want to see any of those cut, as a consumer). Keep the stitch count (welt to sole) good, keep the leather for the uppers good, take that extra step to ensure the gemming doesn't separate from the footbed, well centered and aligned upper leathers/designs... don't cut those corners (not saying I've seen corners cut in these areas, just clarifying things which are more important to KEEP well done). AE has more than one line of construction, their "bench welted" being their top tier. Keep the quality uncompromised here. Let the folks who aren't "in the know" settle for the lower tier construction, and they'll smarten up as they get older. This whole "sneaker thing" they're offering now? No thanks. It's about the same as not knowing which bathroom to use. And (Trenton and Heath), some of us are NOT the young bucks you mention. Some of us are the bald, gray bearded guys who want to keep up on knowing who's still doing the game correctly before we spend our money.
Agree completely with you. I’m a size 15 also, and am thrilled that Allen Edmonds makes shoes that big. I’ve bought 3 pair in the last couple of months due to the education from this channel. The quality may not be what it once was, but still much an upgrade from where I’ve been.
Allen Edmonds makes a nice $250-300 shoe. I have a pair of Alden oxfords (thanks to eBay used) and Alden is on another level. The stitching, the attention to detail, and overall asthetics really make it feel like a premium product. You do pay a premium price too.
100% correct about the education we are receiving from your types of channels and what it does to us as consumers. And Hugo is right about his point in seeing this movement in the tie world just as the shoe world. It’s happening across the board with multiple products and categories of products. I for one just love it. I love the learning process and education and understand stuff such as this. I’m rambling. But thank you for what you guys all do. Haha
I do agree with Hugo. I recently bought a pair of Allen Edmonds on Ebay. Paid $60. Plus shipping. Black cap toe Oxford. It's not a sharp looking shoe. They don't stand out. I personally wouldn't wear them with my suits. I do wear them with slacks and dress shirts and they look good. I keep them on the level of shoes that I don't pair with suits. I instead wear To Boot New York; which not only look good but get compliments non stop. Carmina is another brand that is worth the price and you get the sharp look of a shoe that goes exceptionally well with suiting up. Few others; Carlos Santos Cobler Union The Armoury. On a different note; glad to see the two different Parties/ TH-camrs in the same video. I was surprised when I first came across this. The opinions, along with the knowledge, and ideas shared, made it a great combination for topic of discussion.
I own almost 100 pairs of AE from many years. I, as a young man, pinched pennies to buy a Florsheim. Now, AE is the only American brand that I can buy with my size. If I want an Alden, I have to invest more than a year to get one.
From Singapore! Just bought my first pair of black goodyear-welted oxfords from CNES cuz I’m starting work in a few weeks. I can attest and say that they are absolutely beautiful and I definitely feel more confident wearing them. The best part, it was on sale and only cost $195 SGD (approx $140 USD), which is absolutely nuts.
The sad part is how so many men go for the cheapest shoe option, and don't invest in dress shoes as the foundational pieces they are. You can get away with a cheap suit, but EVERYONE looks at your feet: shoes that are glued vs. stitched make the biggest difference. If you invest in $150-$300 shoes just once, they will live beyond you with regular maintenance and resoles. But a cheap suit/slacks + cheap dress shoes mentality = I really don't care about how I look.
It's an intro that's needed. Many people need to hear the preaching of craftsmanship, qualities, and tradition. He is very good at getting you interested in other things than clothing as wine, furniture, and lifestyle.
Now that's a crossover i never knew i need! Honestly this doesn't feel like a 26 mins video, thoroughly enjoyable.. Will the 2nd part be posted here as well or in the Sartorial Talk's channel?
Shoe topic between you guys and Hugo, I'm already sold. How society is switching, really got to me, made my heart rate spike, I want to keep my items, I want high quality. I want a history with an item and I want to support a trend towards that goal. Thank you guys for the effort and this video!
Indeed! I am a woman but my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable
You should make a designer series where you cut open high end designer boots/shoes. More Saint Laurent, Gucci, balenciaga, Prada, Rick owens. I think you’ll gain a lot of audience by opening up expensive designer shoes and seeing if they’re worth the big price tags.
They have done a few Gucci and Prada and SLP on the show before. I think the SLP were underwelming but by definition thise brands are overpriced as luxury.
@@bucknut2000 yeah I’ve seen some of them. I loved the slp one and it’s like their 6th most viewed video ever and it’s only been up for a few months so there’s obviously a market for that type of video. They’re obviously over priced but it would be interesting to a lot people to have a look inside and see what materials these high end brands are using and to get a cobblers perspective on the construction.
For decades, I didn't know much about the technical side of shoes. Just the name of brands. It was only since 2019, and thanks to channels like this on TH-cam, that I started to learn. Through chance, and listening to my wife's opinion about "how they look" when buying, I did get a couple of pairs of fairly decent ones. Plus grudgingly forking out more than my previous buys (those didn't last, not surprisingly). Armed with new knowledge from channels like this, first and foremost, I now insist the shoes I buy MUST be stitched. If not Goodyear-welt, than Blake stitch. Doesn't matter if the salesman/girl insist "how good and guaranteed" the soles had been cemented. NO! Then the uppers - definitely no more "artificial", "patent" leather. Quality shoes certainly aren't cheap. But if one is patient as in "Good things come to those who wait", and not immediately buy something, he will find pairs at reasonable prices. Sooner or later, some brand or store will put things on sale to clear old stock. And that's the time to buy. -- Petaling Jaya, Malaysia
Thank you for this knowledge. As a woman, my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable.
This was a great conversation. I got my first quality pair of shoes at 40. I don’t wear dress shoes for work and just didn’t know anything about them. Thanks T&H for your willingness to help me.
Great show guys I love Hugo have been watching him since I retired from the USAF after twenty years and had to learn how to dress. Yes dress and with quality stuff.
My mom took us all to shoe stores and insisted on leather soles and heels when we were children. She said it was better for the growth of your feet. I think she was right. I grew up in good bass loafers and oxford’s as a school girl and then good white nursing shoes. My feet have never suffered. Buy well made shoes for your babies, children and even teens. Buy the best you can afford and avoid plastics.
Glad to see you all got together on a video- your two channels have really upped by shoe game over tha last few years! I bought a pair of CNES loafers a year ago after watching Hugo's video, and I still get compliments when I wear it. I still can't believe how little how I paid for them. Quality definitely not as good as some other pairs I own, but it's not bad, and for that price, so hard to beat.
There were a lot of comments about how a "dress" shoe brings more confidence to the wearer. The same thing happens with "work" shoes/boots. The Thorogood boots you repair for Abom79 come to mind. You are speaking specifically about dress shoes in this video but, quality bringing confidence to the wearer happens universally. Thus... the value of quality. 😉
Hugo appearing with Trenton and Heath!? This is going to be a super informative video! Just started watching 6 minutes into this episode and had to comment!
I like how you mentioned that Allen Edmonds does a good job on wider shoes. I wear a EEE. Are any of the brands that will be mentioned in part 2 also good brands for wide feet?
Hopefully Rancourt makes the cut. It's hard to search for shoes with so many foot geometry concerns. I'm of a wide toe narrow heel variety, used to get my feet cast for corrective plates as a kid, heavily considering bespoke shoes for the superior fit.
"But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet."
Could not agree more with them about Allen Edmonds. I have pairs from the early 2000s up until now that even I can tell a few shortcuts. Still not a bad brand for the price point, still a huge fan of them, will continue to buy them but don't really put them in the same category as others. Definitely better than some J and M's I have seen lately for sure. Also, great to see Hugo on the channel! He's one of my favorites!
If only more people became aware of quality vs mass production and opted for long lasting products. The movement is relatively small compared to the population of consumers. Big brands would be forced to create higher quality products if their margins actually took a large enough hit. As it stands the market will always be flooded with cheap throw away merchandise and plenty of customers eagerly buying them. 🧐
Wonderful and important conversation to have about shoes and the general lack of American quality in production vs where to go to find better. What is the name of your guest and his website/TH-cam channel? Carry on
Being in the UK, I have been a lover of Loake shoes for many years. Many people say that Charles Church shoes are better but they are double the price but not double the quality. My oldest pair of Loake shoes is nearly thirty years old and have been resoled and rehealed many times, they are probably due for a really good overhaul as the lining leather has finally worn out.
Church's were sold to the Prada group a while back, with a noticeable drop in quality. The Church family is now running Cheaney's. Loake are still in Kettering, but I'm not sure if they will reline their shoes or not - probably best to ask them directly.
I live in the same town as your shop. I went to the big mall in Franklin about a year ago and purchased a pair of Floresheim boots. They have zippers on the sides, and I'm still deciding how I feel about them. I wish I had had this video then.
I love finding old pairs of Allen Edmonds with the uppers in good shape and then restoring and recrafting them. I've gotten several pairs used for around 50 bucks or even less, and after some work they are better than new and an awesome value. I've developed a good relationship with a great cobbler in my area, and I've been learning and accumulating the tools to be able to do more of the work myself.
I love this collab so much. First the difference in accents, then the different knowledge that covers the spectrum and a bonus when Hugo fires at Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss for being pay for brand and not quality and the Potters both wearing RL :)
Hi hugo just starting to watch your videos unbelievable great information i want to start a shoe collection i am in man in my early 50s what brand of shoes is the best bank for your money and very good quality shoes thanks for your help
Sonya and Hugo...i followed every speech because you are just the best..!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers from sunny Greece !!!!!!!!!!!! Scarosso and TLB Mallorca are the my choice
Seems like we are almost at that juncture where the Trenton & Heath Bespoke brand gets created and we fly into Nashville for fitting for our custom made shell cordovan oxfords.
Question: With the degrading of shoe production over the years, if a company was to turn the clock back and produce real quality shoes what would a realistic price be for them vs. shoes that are custom made to order?
Using Tricker's (a UK brand which has been making shoes the same way since 1829) as an example, their standard shoes/boots range from £485 to £565. Their bespoke shoes/boots start at £3,000 for the first pair, £2,500 for subsequent pairs. If your feet fit their lasts, their standard range are some of the best quality available. If you have problematic feet, bespoke is the way to go. Either way, their shoes/boots are of a quality that British Royalty choose to wear them. The US equivalent would probably be Alden, who produce shoes/boots in a massive array of last widths & shapes. If you can get your feet measured in one of their boutiques, they will recommend a size and last to best suit your feet, avoiding the need for bespoke fittings. Prices range from roughly $600 to $1,000, depending on style & leather. As a final thought, if you are after a pair of boots, the Spokane, WA makers (Nicks, JK, Whites) are astonishingly well made, using high quality materials & traditional methods, and a vast range of lasts. If necessary, they will modify an existing last to fit your feet - to get sized, you either visit in person, or send tracings and measurements of your feet. Reasonably sensible money ($500 to $750ish). Not the most elegant, but for their intended market, hard to beat. Hope that helps.
Not sure what to think about guys selling sensibility and taste while drinking from Styrofoam cups. They even sell coffee cup merch and are not drinking from them to give them a little visibility. Just seems odd. Don't you think?
Honestly it’s not just your channels. It’s the fact that there is the Internet. I am your guys age and we just flat out didn’t have the Internet before.
I just bought a pair of monkstraps from Thomas Bird London and was very impressed with them. They came in at just under $300. I wonder if you had any experience with their shoes and what you thought of the quality.
I recommend a visit to Allen Edmonds in Port Washington to meet the lineage of employees that have been there 40+ years and take great pride in their craft. With the volume AE puts out, the quality is quite good. They produce 6000 shoes and do 600 recrafts a week for perspective.
I can attest to the growth that comes from learning the quality of products that are out there. I had no idea there was so much involved. My wife is not as happy with you as a result! LOL
I have two pairs of TLB Mallora that i love. Some black wholecut oxfords and burgundy chelsea boots. Curious to see if it makes the list. I will def check out CNES, never heard of them before.
I agree with Mr Jacomet,, for the most part, on the Allen Edmonds comments about their styling being very bulky and the toe boxes being wide and lacking the subtle styling of other shoemakers. I own 2-3 pair of AE and I always try and size down on the width , from ‘D’ to ‘C’ or even ‘B’ and this mitigates this somewhat I feel. AE is a well made, very nice shoe and you can pick them up on sale (as mentioned) or used for a very good price.
I have a very hard time finding dress shoes that fit me. I wear size 5 or 5.5 us in mens. I dont know what company to get and the only thing i found in my size is from Gucci that i can get soon and not wait. Any suggestions on where to look?
I had the exact same orgasmic reaction when I recently bought the magnanni Ondara. Im 27 and never spent that much on footwear before 2 years ago but since I discovered magnanni I feel like I've found a missing part of my style
Excellent video. Really enjoyed listening to you guys talk about shoes. I have always been the type of guy to buy expensive work boots, since I am in them all day earning a paycheck, but go cheap on dress shoes. I'm changing my mindset. I'm going to get a nice pair of dress shoes that look and feel good.
Yes completely agree with the quality dropping issue.it’s also happening with the all aspects of all stuff around the world. More and more people starting to collect old cars , old stuff , clothes etc. Everything is look plastic right know. Really frustrating.
I've purchased what I believe to be nice quality shoes that I've seen at Marshall's. Are these shoes that have been returned from other department stores?
Great work!!! I love how a couple of TN gentlemen shrugged off the French accent comment at the beginning... I can understand all three of y'all jus'fine... now I'm going to see what I can buy from CNES... thank you again! Good stuff!
Curious what you think of the trend towards mens shoes 👞 with leather/traditional uppers paired with (often white) foam soles. What are the implications on rebuilding these shoes (would love to see a video of you guys breaking these down) and is that going to put a dent in the renaissance towards well-built classic shoes?
I laughed when Hugo mentions wide, “puffy” Allen Edmonds. I wear a 10.5 B, which is nearly impossible to find in a shoe. Not so difficult to see that shoes from big brands typically make my feet look very wide and out of ratio with my tall/lean frame. (6’2”, 160lbs).
Hey, I have a pair of Johnston&Murphy that need work I bought them in the early 2000s, one are they a good brand, and two can I send them two you for repair? By the way, they say they are from Italy.
Excellent choice of guest! I first saw him on Kirby Alison and subscribed to his channel. Very classy and hope he and his wife enjoyed their stay with y'all. Keep up the good work!
Someone may of asked, but in my business I am constantly waking on asphalt, carpet, and tile at work. I am concerned about shoes in this level being as durable on the asphalt. Any recommendations there?
Joe, unfortunately, asphalt is a sole’s worst enemy. However, the better the brand, generally the more durable the leather sole. Another option is a stitched Vibram type sole.
Sorry for having to break this video into 2 parts. It was just so long. We’ll post the second half within the next few days. There are a lot of great brands out there, but these are just some of our favorites. We hope this video series helps. Thanks for watching!
I would say the videos are just not long enough!
Such a tease! Besides Allen Edmonds, y’all mentioned just one other brand. I definitely agree this video could have been way longer and still kept my attention.
Can’t wait. Terrifically informative video and a genuinely engaging conversation.
I have to say that this is one of my favorite collaborations you guys have made to date. I love both content creators and enjoyed the in-depth conversations a great deal!
Length of video does not matter if the content is interesting.
There was no need to break the video.
21:47 brands start
…but don’t miss all of the informative info before this point. 😉
Thanks, man!
Hugo Jacomet is such an amazing guest. The amount of knowledge that he carries is phenomenal. The fact that he's visited so many different brands from dress shoes to suits and socks and shirts. He's simply amazing and I really enjoyed this video. Can't wait for part 2!!!
Thank you for this video!
Truly an amazing guest ❤
Hugo Jacomet: "Stop giving your money to Hugo B., Ralph L., Giorgio A."
Trenton and Heath nod, both wearing Polo by Ralph Lauren products.
Noticed that too ahahah
LMAO ayyyy
They're talking about the shoes that the brand makes not the other products that the brand makes
When I started in the mens clothing industry, I worked for a magnificent men's clothing store in New Jersey. The dress shoe line we carried was Alden from Massachusetts. I am still wearing a few pairs from 1987 and the 90s . I can't express what a great product and company Alden was. Except for their boots, I don't see much advertising for them anymore. I really hope the company is doing well.
I went to 9 stores today, looking for a pair of brown loafers and something didn't feel right, so everytime I left without buying anything and feeling dissatisfied. Then I went looking for an informed opinion on TH-cam and I found your channel. I'm glad I did.
I was working for the discount version of one of the high end department stores in late 89 to early 90. One of my coworkers in the men's department kept promoting Allen Edmonds and another American brand name as to what to buy for dress shoes. Working in the shoe department myself, I would see the shoes as they came in, and always looked for my size. At the time, Allen's would run $300-400 from this department store, and returns and end of stock runs would get sent to the store I worked at, and discounted by 25-40% off retail. A pair came in, simple design, what appeared to be one of the high end Oxfords. My coworker was pushing me to buy them, something didn't look right about them. Looking closer at the heel block, a corner was starting to lift, and what I noticed was the leather was a veneer. Finally pointed it out to my coworker, and he was shocked. So as early at 1989/1990. Allen Edmonds were playing around with this design on some of their lower priced shoes. This may have been a test series, I am unsure, I started noticing details of dress shoes more carefully after.
I’m impressed by Hugo’s communication skill. verbal and body language reading is superb. he knows how to engage the guys and read their body language and engage them as needed.
👍
Yes, you are right. The man is a magnificent public speaker and presenter. Regards
Saint Ignatius!
Your past videos explaining and showing what sets good shoes apart from throw away shoes is helping to make so many of us informed consumers. For 40+ years I basically thought of more expensive shoes as vanity accessories and a waste of money for the average person. Thanks to you and other cobblers I look at shoes with a whole new perspective. The saying goes "knowledge is power " and your willingness to share your knowledge is helping consumers take back the power because we are not dependent on shoe salesmen to tell us what is best. I love the thought of owning shoes that are worth passing along to someone instead of tossing them into the trash.
Thank you! We’re so glad to hear that.
Amen.
I was one of those salesman throughout the 90s and early 00s, and can say from experience in the field that not all salesman went about it the same way.
Some were driven by commission, sure. I was driven by education.
Knowledge is indeed power.
It also led to a lot of repeat customers for myself as people wanted to show appreciation for treating them like people capable of making their own informed decisions instead of salivating over a potential close.
I really appreciate the guys at Potter and Sons because they have a similar approach. Rather than looking down upon those who may be have made a less repairable choice, or a quicker wearing shoe, or whatever, they care about the person enough to take the time to explain the why. That matters to guys like me.
So thank you guys. Keep it up.
I've seen Hugo Jakomet's channel before a few times and found him to be interesting. I am very pleased to see him on your channel and appreciate you guys allowing him to really articulate his point and opinions, obviously why you invited him on the show. With that said it is a extremely interesting and entertaining episode and I'm really looking forward to part two! I feel this episode was done very well and once again thoroughly enjoyed.....
Thank you very much. We really appreciate you watching!
What about Brooks Bros.? Not sure who makes the brand. Johnston & Murphy? Alden?
I'm one of those guys who speaks up strongly for Allen Edmonds' brand, simply because I wear a 15D, and I can find VARIETY in my size with them... in more than ONE last style. I see the QC isn't where it needs to be at, but I take advantages of the sales too. So, many of the "concerns" can be corrected when they go to the cobbler for a new sole. If AE is smart, the corners cut are only done in places which can be EASILY fixed: Sole leather; edge sanding, compressed leather fiber heal blocks are examples (but I don't want to see any of those cut, as a consumer). Keep the stitch count (welt to sole) good, keep the leather for the uppers good, take that extra step to ensure the gemming doesn't separate from the footbed, well centered and aligned upper leathers/designs... don't cut those corners (not saying I've seen corners cut in these areas, just clarifying things which are more important to KEEP well done).
AE has more than one line of construction, their "bench welted" being their top tier. Keep the quality uncompromised here. Let the folks who aren't "in the know" settle for the lower tier construction, and they'll smarten up as they get older. This whole "sneaker thing" they're offering now? No thanks. It's about the same as not knowing which bathroom to use.
And (Trenton and Heath), some of us are NOT the young bucks you mention. Some of us are the bald, gray bearded guys who want to keep up on knowing who's still doing the game correctly before we spend our money.
How can you be bald and gray haired?
@@stevenjm12 Read it again (grasshopper). I didn't say "haired".
@@RatdogDRB ha
We couldn’t have said it better. 👍
Agree completely with you. I’m a size 15 also, and am thrilled that Allen Edmonds makes shoes that big. I’ve bought 3 pair in the last couple of months due to the education from this channel. The quality may not be what it once was, but still much an upgrade from where I’ve been.
Allen Edmonds makes a nice $250-300 shoe. I have a pair of Alden oxfords (thanks to eBay used) and Alden is on another level. The stitching, the attention to detail, and overall asthetics really make it feel like a premium product. You do pay a premium price too.
100% correct about the education we are receiving from your types of channels and what it does to us as consumers. And Hugo is right about his point in seeing this movement in the tie world just as the shoe world. It’s happening across the board with multiple products and categories of products. I for one just love it. I love the learning process and education and understand stuff such as this. I’m rambling. But thank you for what you guys all do. Haha
Thank you!
Hugo talking smack about 'Ralph L' and Trenton and Heath are both wearing it hahahaha
I do agree with Hugo. I recently bought a pair of Allen Edmonds on Ebay. Paid $60. Plus shipping. Black cap toe Oxford. It's not a sharp looking shoe. They don't stand out. I personally wouldn't wear them with my suits. I do wear them with slacks and dress shirts and they look good. I keep them on the level of shoes that I don't pair with suits.
I instead wear To Boot New York; which not only look good but get compliments non stop. Carmina is another brand that is worth the price and you get the sharp look of a shoe that goes exceptionally well with suiting up.
Few others;
Carlos Santos
Cobler Union
The Armoury.
On a different note; glad to see the two different Parties/ TH-camrs in the same video. I was surprised when I first came across this. The opinions, along with the knowledge, and ideas shared, made it a great combination for topic of discussion.
I own almost 100 pairs of AE from many years. I, as a young man, pinched pennies to buy a Florsheim. Now, AE is the only American brand that I can buy with my size. If I want an Alden, I have to invest more than a year to get one.
👍
So was it just one brand that was recommended, CNES Shoemaker?
From Singapore! Just bought my first pair of black goodyear-welted oxfords from CNES cuz I’m starting work in a few weeks. I can attest and say that they are absolutely beautiful and I definitely feel more confident wearing them.
The best part, it was on sale and only cost $195 SGD (approx $140 USD), which is absolutely nuts.
The sad part is how so many men go for the cheapest shoe option, and don't invest in dress shoes as the foundational pieces they are. You can get away with a cheap suit, but EVERYONE looks at your feet: shoes that are glued vs. stitched make the biggest difference. If you invest in $150-$300 shoes just once, they will live beyond you with regular maintenance and resoles. But a cheap suit/slacks + cheap dress shoes mentality = I really don't care about how I look.
23.5 minutes into a 26 minute video before the first brand on the list is mentioned...
Absolutely ridiculous…ain’t nobody got time for that.
It's an intro that's needed. Many people need to hear the preaching of craftsmanship, qualities, and tradition. He is very good at getting you interested in other things than clothing as wine, furniture, and lifestyle.
I'm brand new to the luxury world and really love this collaboration of 2 TH-camrs looking to educate us newbies!
Now that's a crossover i never knew i need! Honestly this doesn't feel like a 26 mins video, thoroughly enjoyable.. Will the 2nd part be posted here as well or in the Sartorial Talk's channel?
Thanks! We’ll have the second video posted here within the next few days.
@@TrentonHeath great, can't wait for it 👌🏻
Hugo although it's not your native language, I rarely hear someone with such a good argumentative language. I respect that deeply.
Shoe topic between you guys and Hugo, I'm already sold. How society is switching, really got to me, made my heart rate spike, I want to keep my items, I want high quality. I want a history with an item and I want to support a trend towards that goal. Thank you guys for the effort and this video!
That’s great! We really appreciate it. Thank you for watching.
Indeed! I am a woman but my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable
You should make a designer series where you cut open high end designer boots/shoes. More Saint Laurent, Gucci, balenciaga, Prada, Rick owens. I think you’ll gain a lot of audience by opening up expensive designer shoes and seeing if they’re worth the big price tags.
👍 Great idea! Whew…hopefully we can find some on the cheap. That’s a lot of money. 😉
They have done a few Gucci and Prada and SLP on the show before. I think the SLP were underwelming but by definition thise brands are overpriced as luxury.
@@bucknut2000 yeah I’ve seen some of them. I loved the slp one and it’s like their 6th most viewed video ever and it’s only been up for a few months so there’s obviously a market for that type of video. They’re obviously over priced but it would be interesting to a lot people to have a look inside and see what materials these high end brands are using and to get a cobblers perspective on the construction.
For decades, I didn't know much about the technical side of shoes. Just the name of brands. It was only since 2019, and thanks to channels like this on TH-cam, that I started to learn. Through chance, and listening to my wife's opinion about "how they look" when buying, I did get a couple of pairs of fairly decent ones. Plus grudgingly forking out more than my previous buys (those didn't last, not surprisingly).
Armed with new knowledge from channels like this, first and foremost, I now insist the shoes I buy MUST be stitched. If not Goodyear-welt, than Blake stitch. Doesn't matter if the salesman/girl insist "how good and guaranteed" the soles had been cemented. NO! Then the uppers - definitely no more "artificial", "patent" leather.
Quality shoes certainly aren't cheap. But if one is patient as in "Good things come to those who wait", and not immediately buy something, he will find pairs at reasonable prices. Sooner or later, some brand or store will put things on sale to clear old stock. And that's the time to buy.
-- Petaling Jaya, Malaysia
We couldn’t have said it better. 👍
Thank you for this knowledge.
As a woman, my most complimented pieces in my wardrobe are staple pieces I’ve had for many years and soon, a decade. I hope this trend continues. I have large feet for a woman and oddly enough, mens shoes fit better and are more supportive after wearing Army boots for almost twenty years. I have found I can wear feminine clothing with a wingtip that is comfortable.
This was a great conversation. I got my first quality pair of shoes at 40. I don’t wear dress shoes for work and just didn’t know anything about them. Thanks T&H for your willingness to help me.
Pinch me! So great to see my two favorite youtube shoe channels collaborating with each other. Love to see this....thanks!!!
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What do you guys think about the mainstream brands like Gucci ferragamo etc
Great show guys I love Hugo have been watching him since I retired from the USAF after twenty years and had to learn how to dress. Yes dress and with quality stuff.
My mom took us all to shoe stores and insisted on leather soles and heels when we were children. She said it was better for the growth of your feet. I think she was right. I grew up in good bass loafers and oxford’s as a school girl and then good white nursing shoes. My feet have never suffered. Buy well made shoes for your babies, children and even teens. Buy the best you can afford and avoid plastics.
Glad to see you all got together on a video- your two channels have really upped by shoe game over tha last few years! I bought a pair of CNES loafers a year ago after watching Hugo's video, and I still get compliments when I wear it. I still can't believe how little how I paid for them. Quality definitely not as good as some other pairs I own, but it's not bad, and for that price, so hard to beat.
There were a lot of comments about how a "dress" shoe brings more confidence to the wearer. The same thing happens with "work" shoes/boots. The Thorogood boots you repair for Abom79 come to mind. You are speaking specifically about dress shoes in this video but, quality bringing confidence to the wearer happens universally. Thus... the value of quality. 😉
100% 👍
Hugo appearing with Trenton and Heath!? This is going to be a super informative video! Just started watching 6 minutes into this episode and had to comment!
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Love to see these collaboration videos . Looking forward to part 2.
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11:00 I agree. I feel amazing wearing my good leather Danielle Ferliani dress boots.
I like how you mentioned that Allen Edmonds does a good job on wider shoes. I wear a EEE. Are any of the brands that will be mentioned in part 2 also good brands for wide feet?
Hopefully Rancourt makes the cut. It's hard to search for shoes with so many foot geometry concerns. I'm of a wide toe narrow heel variety, used to get my feet cast for corrective plates as a kid, heavily considering bespoke shoes for the superior fit.
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"But the thing was that good boots lasted for years and years. A man who could afford fifty dollars had a pair of boots that'd still be keeping his feet dry in ten years' time, while the poor man who could only afford cheap boots would have spent a hundred dollars on boots in the same time and would still have wet feet."
Could not agree more with them about Allen Edmonds. I have pairs from the early 2000s up until now that even I can tell a few shortcuts. Still not a bad brand for the price point, still a huge fan of them, will continue to buy them but don't really put them in the same category as others. Definitely better than some J and M's I have seen lately for sure. Also, great to see Hugo on the channel! He's one of my favorites!
J&M is absolute trash these days. They have been for several years now.
@777triathlete I believe the Melton is their last Gyw shoe and it's not spectacular
If only more people became aware of quality vs mass production and opted for long lasting products. The movement is relatively small compared to the population of consumers. Big brands would be forced to create higher quality products if their margins actually took a large enough hit. As it stands the market will always be flooded with cheap throw away merchandise and plenty of customers eagerly buying them. 🧐
I bought my first pair of Alden's off Ebay. I would not have known what to look for without channels like this one.
Thanks for having Hugo. I enjoyed his presentation and knowledge. Since he was here, I'll check out his channel.
Wonderful and important conversation to have about shoes and the general lack of American quality in production vs where to go to find better. What is the name of your guest and his website/TH-cam channel? Carry on
Being in the UK, I have been a lover of Loake shoes for many years. Many people say that Charles Church shoes are better but they are double the price but not double the quality. My oldest pair of Loake shoes is nearly thirty years old and have been resoled and rehealed many times, they are probably due for a really good overhaul as the lining leather has finally worn out.
Church's were sold to the Prada group a while back, with a noticeable drop in quality. The Church family is now running Cheaney's. Loake are still in Kettering, but I'm not sure if they will reline their shoes or not - probably best to ask them directly.
I live in the same town as your shop. I went to the big mall in Franklin about a year ago and purchased a pair of Floresheim boots. They have zippers on the sides, and I'm still deciding how I feel about them. I wish I had had this video then.
Can we please get a definitive list after part 2 is released? Maybe even like a website or something that you guys are constantly updating over time.
Yep, will do. We’ll also have the website links posted in the description box on video 2.
I love finding old pairs of Allen Edmonds with the uppers in good shape and then restoring and recrafting them. I've gotten several pairs used for around 50 bucks or even less, and after some work they are better than new and an awesome value. I've developed a good relationship with a great cobbler in my area, and I've been learning and accumulating the tools to be able to do more of the work myself.
The funny thing is I never knew nothing about Allen Edmonds and I found some wilberts in really good condition for $30
Johnson and Murphy declined. Years ago I bought some black oxfords. Great leather should and very comfortable soles. Cannot find that quality again.
Hi guys. As 🇫🇷 guy, what a pleasure to see Hugo in these videos !
I Saw Hugo, clicked immediately. I'm a sucker for crossovers like this. All three of you rock.
I was looking forward to this after I saw the community post but youtube never recommended it to me. Had to go searching for it
I love this collab so much. First the difference in accents, then the different knowledge that covers the spectrum and a bonus when Hugo fires at Ralph Lauren and Hugo Boss for being pay for brand and not quality and the Potters both wearing RL :)
lol that was funny
Hi hugo just starting to watch your videos unbelievable great information i want to start a shoe collection i am in man in my early 50s what brand of shoes is the best bank for your money and very good quality shoes thanks for your help
My rule of thumb is never to buy from a company that shows on their website, no distinction between oxford and derby dress shoes.
Sonya and Hugo...i followed every speech because you are just the best..!!!!!!!!!!!!! Cheers from sunny Greece !!!!!!!!!!!! Scarosso and TLB Mallorca are the my choice
I wear Church's leather shoes. I have Had them for many years, even before Prada I would like to see Church's reviewed.
Seems like we are almost at that juncture where the Trenton & Heath Bespoke brand gets created and we fly into Nashville for fitting for our custom made shell cordovan oxfords.
Two of my favorite channels coming together! Thank you for all the information packed into this!
I love the shirt that French guy is wearing. The collar style is unique. Where can I get one?
Question: With the degrading of shoe production over the years, if a company was to turn the clock back and produce real quality shoes what would a realistic price be for them vs. shoes that are custom made to order?
Using Tricker's (a UK brand which has been making shoes the same way since 1829) as an example, their standard shoes/boots range from £485 to £565. Their bespoke shoes/boots start at £3,000 for the first pair, £2,500 for subsequent pairs. If your feet fit their lasts, their standard range are some of the best quality available. If you have problematic feet, bespoke is the way to go. Either way, their shoes/boots are of a quality that British Royalty choose to wear them.
The US equivalent would probably be Alden, who produce shoes/boots in a massive array of last widths & shapes. If you can get your feet measured in one of their boutiques, they will recommend a size and last to best suit your feet, avoiding the need for bespoke fittings. Prices range from roughly $600 to $1,000, depending on style & leather.
As a final thought, if you are after a pair of boots, the Spokane, WA makers (Nicks, JK, Whites) are astonishingly well made, using high quality materials & traditional methods, and a vast range of lasts. If necessary, they will modify an existing last to fit your feet - to get sized, you either visit in person, or send tracings and measurements of your feet. Reasonably sensible money ($500 to $750ish). Not the most elegant, but for their intended market, hard to beat.
Hope that helps.
Love it, talking about shed loads of money shoes, drinking out of polystyrene cups... and with Ronnie Corbett
Just poured my coffee and this pops up. Perfect timing!
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Not sure what to think about guys selling sensibility and taste while drinking from Styrofoam cups. They even sell coffee cup merch and are not drinking from them to give them a little visibility. Just seems odd. Don't you think?
Honestly it’s not just your channels. It’s the fact that there is the Internet. I am your guys age and we just flat out didn’t have the Internet before.
Wow didn't expect to see mr Hugo on this channel! What a nice surprise!
i grew up wearing leather shoes in the fifties on; I am shockold todayed at the shoes being sold today, my hurt just looking at them
m
I just bought a pair of monkstraps from Thomas Bird London and was very impressed with them. They came in at just under $300. I wonder if you had any experience with their shoes and what you thought of the quality.
I recommend a visit to Allen Edmonds in Port Washington to meet the lineage of employees that have been there 40+ years and take great pride in their craft. With the volume AE puts out, the quality is quite good. They produce 6000 shoes and do 600 recrafts a week for perspective.
I can attest to the growth that comes from learning the quality of products that are out there. I had no idea there was so much involved. My wife is not as happy with you as a result! LOL
Greetings! Nice to see our friend Hugo featured on your channel. Well done. D&R
I been wearing AE for years now is time to step up my game im thinking Crockett and Jones
please help? son is 21, wide, flat foot, super overpronation, need a shoe that he can wear with jeans and chino with blazer
I have two pairs of TLB Mallora that i love. Some black wholecut oxfords and burgundy chelsea boots. Curious to see if it makes the list. I will def check out CNES, never heard of them before.
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cnes is fantastic! only downside is that they have many sizes for not so wide feet (asian market orientated).
How do I convert Blake stitch to Goodyear welt
So glad to see Hugo with you guys!!
Man, can't wait for the next episode! I had to visit the website of CNES after this.
@trenton & heath How about luchesse? Would love to see your opinion of the great bootmakers
Hope to see shoepassion in part 2, very rarely talked about outside the german community, only seen it mentioned on the gazette as Sven is from there.
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Their the most attainable high quality shomaker in Poland, in my opinion
Honestly, the name is a little tacky.
I agree with Mr Jacomet,, for the most part, on the Allen Edmonds comments about their styling being very bulky and the toe boxes being wide and lacking the subtle styling of other shoemakers. I own 2-3 pair of AE and I always try and size down on the width , from ‘D’ to ‘C’ or even ‘B’ and this mitigates this somewhat I feel. AE is a well made, very nice shoe and you can pick them up on sale (as mentioned) or used for a very good price.
I have a very hard time finding dress shoes that fit me. I wear size 5 or 5.5 us in mens. I dont know what company to get and the only thing i found in my size is from Gucci that i can get soon and not wait. Any suggestions on where to look?
I had the exact same orgasmic reaction when I recently bought the magnanni Ondara. Im 27 and never spent that much on footwear before 2 years ago but since I discovered magnanni I feel like I've found a missing part of my style
Awesome!
Excellent video. Really enjoyed listening to you guys talk about shoes. I have always been the type of guy to buy expensive work boots, since I am in them all day earning a paycheck, but go cheap on dress shoes. I'm changing my mindset. I'm going to get a nice pair of dress shoes that look and feel good.
Thanks and that’s awesome. You won’t regret it!
Have you ever re-soled or reviewed Heinrich Dinkelacker shoes?
Yes completely agree with the quality dropping issue.it’s also happening with the all aspects of all stuff around the world. More and more people starting to collect old cars , old stuff , clothes etc. Everything is look plastic right know. Really frustrating.
is wolf and shepherd shoes a good shoe to buy
I've purchased what I believe to be nice quality shoes that I've seen at Marshall's. Are these shoes that have been returned from other department stores?
Very, very interesting video. So glad you put it together and shared it…
Thanks, Grant
There great chemistry between you three. Very interesting and informative to listen to. Big up!
Two of my favorite channels. This is AWESOME!!
Thanks, Michael
How do you feel about Berwick?
Great work!!! I love how a couple of TN gentlemen shrugged off the French accent comment at the beginning... I can understand all three of y'all jus'fine... now I'm going to see what I can buy from CNES... thank you again! Good stuff!
When will part 2 be shown?
Curious what you think of the trend towards mens shoes 👞 with leather/traditional uppers paired with (often white) foam soles. What are the implications on rebuilding these shoes (would love to see a video of you guys breaking these down) and is that going to put a dent in the renaissance towards well-built classic shoes?
I laughed when Hugo mentions wide, “puffy” Allen Edmonds. I wear a 10.5 B, which is nearly impossible to find in a shoe. Not so difficult to see that shoes from big brands typically make my feet look very wide and out of ratio with my tall/lean frame. (6’2”, 160lbs).
What? What you wrote makes no sense. No 10.5 shoe is going to make your feet look too big for a 6'2" frame
I can relate I have the same exact shoe size. Your favorite shoe brands? Only brand I could find is Allen Edmond. No one sells narrow shoes.
Hey, I have a pair of Johnston&Murphy that need work I bought them in the early 2000s, one are they a good brand, and two can I send them two you for repair? By the way, they say they are from Italy.
Trent/Heath have you guys ever resoled a stitch down construction boot
Yep, quite a few of them.
Excellent choice of guest! I first saw him on Kirby Alison and subscribed to his channel. Very classy and hope he and his wife enjoyed their stay with y'all. Keep up the good work!
Someone may of asked, but in my business I am constantly waking on asphalt, carpet, and tile at work. I am concerned about shoes in this level being as durable on the asphalt. Any recommendations there?
Joe, unfortunately, asphalt is a sole’s worst enemy. However, the better the brand, generally the more durable the leather sole. Another option is a stitched Vibram type sole.
get some shoes with rubber soles, I have a pair from cobbler union, the Winston UR - 312, George boots and a pair from Carmina, Derby' with York sole