That welt stitching machine is awesome! I feel like y'all should use cork under the footbed though... rubber isn't the same over time. Beautiful products
I agree, Goodyear Welting prccess gives space for cork. But these shoes aren't really made the same was as a cork bed shoe. These shoes are from fashion brands who still do goodyear welting, but decide to lack in proper cushioning so customers come back once a year when the cheap foam has gone down.
Leather is ideal to fill that space. Rubber will never conform to your foot like leather will and cork will flatten and get pushed to the sides and possibly form lumps as time passes.
Yo tenia los 30 años en el oficio del calzado en el área del pespunte hasta que la pandemia lo vino a arruinar todo. Este vídeo me trajo nostalgia,siempre me gusto mi oficio ☹️
Pero no cocieron la suela de caucho del final 😕 eso es un punto negativo que implica poca durabilidad y mediocre construcción, porque la suelas pegadas pueden desprenderse si se usan en ambientes de alto impacto que requieren imprimir fuerzas cambiantes, bruscas y constantes sobre sus pies, como el hiking (¿que se supone que es el ramo en el que se especializa esta marca no?) O peor aún, simplemente con que el cliente viva en climas de calor extremo, las suelas pegadas se desprenden con mucha facilidad, a simple vista todo muy bien pero una decepción al final del video.
@@richterbelmont857 Видел видео производства ручной работы. Там рант и подметку пришивают вручную, а каблук крепят шурупами. Японские и корейские мастера.
Well, firstly all stitching is made by machine, which makes Goodyear welt last sightly shorter time, secondly adding so much glue to boot upper makes it as breathable as a rubber ;)
google translate No need to glue the lining to the top before tightening. From the beginning it is necessary to tighten the lining. Then spread the glue. And only then glue the top. So on the lining there will be no defects and puffs that sometimes happen when tightening the skin with an already glued lining. не нужно клеить подкладку к верху до затяжки. С начало надо затянуть подкладку. Потом намазать клей. И только после этого приклеить верх. Так на подкладке не будет дефектов и затяжек, которые иногда бывают при затяжке кожи с уже проклееной подкладкой.
Ok for an Italian boot, I guess...but those prices are 20-30% higher than Danner, White and Red Wing for comparable boots (that use a cork bed, instead of a rubber bed). VAT is brutal, I guess...
so the rib is not fixed anymore on the inside sole , maybe the reason in to make the process cheaper , but this means that this is not anymore the real goodyear welt process, regards robert
Stitched sole I guess. I'd rather have these cemented ones. When they wear out of shape its much cheaper to get a new pair put in. I would only want them stitched on if i am gonna get put on a deserted island for 20 years where there are no stores to buy glue or a shoe shop.
@@Esuper1 The 'stitched sole' constrains the shoe's flexibility, but an alternative is to have a rubber sole added (ie glued) to the existing leather sole. This is about a 1mm thick, and can add years to the life of a shoe. Many people do this with leather-soled shoes (stitched sole or not) to extend the life of the shoe, but more importantly for traction.
the outside sole is not stitched to the welt so the quality of these boots will not guarantee that the sole will come of , this means that this is not a real welted boot
Nothing wrong with the idea of using a glue to bond the 2 pc 2gther, but goodyear welted is all about stitching leather to the sole. Hes used more glue lol
the idea of a goodyear welt is to create a sturdy sole that is weather proofed, AND easy to replace. the rubber is an artificial liner. its not a true part of the sole. the actual leather sole is there and welted, and will likely never see the light of day again. as the rubber wears and tears, it can be removed and replaced. you cant stitch through most rubbers as it will just promote tearing in the sole. and in the case of a boot that will spend most of its time in mud and dirt, you really dont want any holes for the mud and dirt to get stuck into.
No he hasn't. You need extra adhesive when using leather as its very porous and absorbs the first coat completely. Single coat of adhesive required for rubber after preparation depending on the kind of sole material.
...how shoemakers and cobblers work: Hmm... this full size painters brush is not quite alrigh where did I put my... aah there it is... my sturdy ol' porch broom *dips broom in gluepot, eyes shoe* Hmm... now this might just do the trick. But I better be really sure... *puts brown aside* wouldnt want this thing to come undone would I? *grabs and dips shoe in gluepot* aaah now that is what I call the just right amount of glue.
pues la suela si esta cosida sobre el welt , solo que este tipo de welt no es el normal , este tipo de welt es mas barato ya que el rib no esta hecha via hendidura en la planta o via una tira de tela reforzada cosida sobre la planta , un saludo desde leon gto donde hacemos 260 millones de pares al año
it's the strip that the used to stitch down the top part of the boot. The leather all curved at the bottom, but wasn't being held by anything. They put a strip/lip/welt thing over the leather and stitched it. They then stitched the sole to the welt.
goodyear welt is a combination of 2 main things, a welt, which is a strip of (usually leather) thats sewn around the bottm of the shoe, and a raised rib on the perimiter of the insole that allows the welt to be sewn to it (and through the bottm of the upper) by machine instead of by hand. the welt is then stitched down to either just the midsole, or the midsole and outer sole. hand welted is the same thing, except you sew the welt through the upper and insole at an angle, this allows for less volume on the bottm of the shoe / boot. welted construction in general however is prone to the welt stitches rotting because they are basically between the sole layers
Why oh why don't they make beautiful boots like this for women. Loved the video, but had volume down so didn't hear the 'bad' music....informative enough without commentary, so thumbs up from me.
Because most women are too stupid to buy well made shoes. They put a higher priority on number of shoes vs quality of shoes. They want to have a pair of shoes for every outfit that they wear whereas men are more likely to just have a couple of pairs of shoes for different activities -- sneakers, dress shoes (maybe brown and black), boots (hiking, cowboy, hunting, depending upon what part of the country you are from). Women will have more than that in just the same color. Women will think that each of those styles are completely different whereas a guy just thinks that the woman has 20 pairs of black shoes that all look alike. Women dress up for *other women* not for guys. Guys just don't notice such things. We might notice whether a woman is wearing clothes / shoes or not, but that is about the level of granularity that we notice. You can't say that we are "shallow" since that implies that we have *some* depth. :)
@@antifascist1 not really, you would have to replace the leather sole as well because how much glue/cement is being used. Near impossible to just replace the vibram at this point.
The good year welt symbol at the end shows that you stitch through the sole into the welt....... Which you clearly don't. This sole will easily fall off; medium boot quality at best.
I want to learn shoemaking of all types with the use of machine and without. Please could you be of help as to where i can learn. I'm in Nigeria but willing to travel. I'd really appreciate your response. Thank you.
oh....now I can't help myself. Look at the image at both the beginning and the end of this video for "Goodyear welted technology". The red stitch for the welted portion is there. The red colored stitch in the image is not correct! You only stitched to the mid sole and not all the way through like your image has. I hope this is not the untrue logo for your company also.
I’d you want a clean to the point video about the Goodyear welt construction process, then just go over to Redwing’s channel. And you’ll see better made shoes to boot.👍
You really don't need to make any part black and white. Also, stop using such narrow depth of field. close the f-stop some so more parts are in focus. Too much of it is out of focus.
It's very important to me that I never hear that music again
Do do du dun do do du dukun do dun .... yea I agree it's quite the cringe.
This comment is making me laugh uncontrollably
😂😂😂😂
That welt stitching machine is awesome! I feel like y'all should use cork under the footbed though... rubber isn't the same over time. Beautiful products
I agree, Goodyear Welting prccess gives space for cork. But these shoes aren't really made the same was as a cork bed shoe. These shoes are from fashion brands who still do goodyear welting, but decide to lack in proper cushioning so customers come back once a year when the cheap foam has gone down.
Leather is ideal to fill that space. Rubber will never conform to your foot like leather will and cork will flatten and get pushed to the sides and possibly form lumps as time passes.
Yo tenia los 30 años en el oficio del calzado en el área del pespunte hasta que la pandemia lo vino a arruinar todo. Este vídeo me trajo nostalgia,siempre me gusto mi oficio ☹️
Pero no cocieron la suela de caucho del final 😕 eso es un punto negativo que implica poca durabilidad y mediocre construcción, porque la suelas pegadas pueden desprenderse si se usan en ambientes de alto impacto que requieren imprimir fuerzas cambiantes, bruscas y constantes sobre sus pies, como el hiking (¿que se supone que es el ramo en el que se especializa esta marca no?)
O peor aún, simplemente con que el cliente viva en climas de calor extremo, las suelas pegadas se desprenden con mucha facilidad, a simple vista todo muy bien pero una decepción al final del video.
@@richterbelmont857 Видел видео производства ручной работы. Там рант и подметку пришивают вручную, а каблук крепят шурупами. Японские и корейские мастера.
Well, firstly all stitching is made by machine, which makes Goodyear welt last sightly shorter time, secondly adding so much glue to boot upper makes it as breathable as a rubber ;)
Mind your fingers! Incredibly skilled people and a pleasure to watch them working. Thanks for sharing this.
google translate
No need to glue the lining to the top before tightening. From the beginning it is necessary to tighten the lining. Then spread the glue. And only then glue the top. So on the lining there will be no defects and puffs that sometimes happen when tightening the skin with an already glued lining.
не нужно клеить подкладку к верху до затяжки. С начало надо затянуть подкладку. Потом намазать клей. И только после этого приклеить верх. Так на подкладке не будет дефектов и затяжек, которые иногда бывают при затяжке кожи с уже проклееной подкладкой.
You didn't show the end result? What happened?
Great manufacturing process… thanks!
So you have a lower rubber sole glued to a leather mid-sole ?
At the end you did not welted the last to sole’s together.
why don't they use cork between the inner sole and the sole?
Why not stitches the rubber sole to the midsole?
Cost savings
Ok for an Italian boot, I guess...but those prices are 20-30% higher than Danner, White and Red Wing for comparable boots (that use a cork bed, instead of a rubber bed). VAT is brutal, I guess...
Ho acquistato un paio di lagorai gtx,sono veramente stupende. complimenti ZAMBERLAN
Francesco carulli
should have showed the finish product all around
Did you really not stitch the sole on?!
Good work,the name of this music
Не индпошив, конечно, далеко до ручной затяжки и отделки, но машины неплохие и, видимо, обеспечивают средний или даже высокий уровень качества.
А что это за фирма вообще? Что за Замберленд?
Замберлан - фамилия основателя. С 1929 года производят, одни из лучших ботинок для альпинизма делают. zamberlan-russia.ru/catalog/alpine/
Я думал это спец.обувь от зомби бегать.
so the rib is not fixed anymore on the inside sole , maybe the reason in to make the process cheaper , but this means that this is not anymore the real goodyear welt process, regards robert
Que maquina e esta que prega a vira?
the main reason why shoes are using the welt process is to be able to change the outsole without damaging the leather of the upper
Ever consider stitching on the outsole with that layer instead of glueing it on?
More premium brands do that. Also nail the heals
Whats up with the open cell heal.
put a Classical music for the video.. it make people watching and feel calm..
મ
Classical or some slow acoustic guitar song. :)
@@jr4chargers Even the worst gangsta rap, anything but this absolute atrocity!!!
Would have been nice to see the boots finished as a pair.
The music is soulful. Great video.
*awful
6:09 My dude was like, "Fuck it, I'm gonna slap a little more glue on this bad boy before we ship it out."
So much work for one shoes . That's the quality first .
bro u work for weeks to afford that shoe they make in minutes
Спасибо за видео!
Ахренеть .
интересно было посмотреть и Спасибо за видео
Рекомендую посмотреть видео: "Saint Crispin's - the whole process
" про то как делают премиальную классическую мужскую обувь с ценником 1000+ евро.
Not interesting as watching a handmade shoes ,, the craftsmanship ,, the patience, the art ,, the result is a master piece.
i hope these people healthy and wealhty
The sole is cemented to the shoe, what is the process called when the sole is stitched to the shoe? Tx
Stitched sole I guess. I'd rather have these cemented ones. When they wear out of shape its much cheaper to get a new pair put in. I would only want them stitched on if i am gonna get put on a deserted island for 20 years where there are no stores to buy glue or a shoe shop.
@@Esuper1 The 'stitched sole' constrains the shoe's flexibility, but an alternative is to have a rubber sole added (ie glued) to the existing leather sole. This is about a 1mm thick, and can add years to the life of a shoe. Many people do this with leather-soled shoes (stitched sole or not) to extend the life of the shoe, but more importantly for traction.
Anybody knows what is the music playing ?
Hita Maya 7
the outside sole is not stitched to the welt so the quality of these boots will not guarantee that the sole will come of , this means that this is not a real welted boot
No cork lining? And the outsole isn’t even stitched onto the welt! There’s no way this can be called a Goodyear welted shoe.
Thats why i so confuse
when i saw the leather quality i allready was like " i wonder how shitty this shoe is"
Super ,bardzo ciekawy film
Zamberlan boots are no hype , they truly are that good and well worth the expense.
I see the finest of the work,I like that shoes it look durable.
how much your meschine to make your shoes
Fascinating stuff!!! ☮️🖖🏽
Why no cork???
Cork is the best material but it basically costs too much.
Simply the highest quality and most comfortable boots made. I have the VioZ Lux and Leopards.
我有1030
Nothing wrong with the idea of using a glue to bond the 2 pc 2gther, but goodyear welted is all about stitching leather to the sole. Hes used more glue lol
You use less glue when you make shoes....
the idea of a goodyear welt is to create a sturdy sole that is weather proofed, AND easy to replace. the rubber is an artificial liner. its not a true part of the sole. the actual leather sole is there and welted, and will likely never see the light of day again. as the rubber wears and tears, it can be removed and replaced. you cant stitch through most rubbers as it will just promote tearing in the sole. and in the case of a boot that will spend most of its time in mud and dirt, you really dont want any holes for the mud and dirt to get stuck into.
No he hasn't. You need extra adhesive when using leather as its very porous and absorbs the first coat completely. Single coat of adhesive required for rubber after preparation depending on the kind of sole material.
They used the right amount of glue, look up how shoemakers and cobblers work.
...how shoemakers and cobblers work: Hmm... this full size painters brush is not quite alrigh where did I put my... aah there it is... my sturdy ol' porch broom *dips broom in gluepot, eyes shoe* Hmm... now this might just do the trick. But I better be really sure... *puts brown aside* wouldnt want this thing to come undone would I? *grabs and dips shoe in gluepot* aaah now that is what I call the just right amount of glue.
How to design a casual shoe . suture with the insole
Then place the template In the shoe to configure format the shape of the shoe
Redocyn method b.a3
Incredible work 😍
No Cork?
Duran más las botas 😃 con las suelas cosidas.
pues la suela si esta cosida sobre el welt , solo que este tipo de welt no es el normal , este tipo de welt es mas barato ya que el rib no esta hecha via hendidura en la planta o via una tira de tela reforzada cosida sobre la planta , un saludo desde leon gto donde hacemos 260 millones de pares al año
Friends say, what do the edges of the soles handle?
Where’s the finished product?
Putz.... tem razão de ser caro... muito bem feito ! Parabéns pelo excelente trabalho.
i want to buy those cuples of zamberlan, i love it
I still don't understand what goodyear welt is.....can somebody fill me in?
it's the strip that the used to stitch down the top part of the boot. The leather all curved at the bottom, but wasn't being held by anything. They put a strip/lip/welt thing over the leather and stitched it. They then stitched the sole to the welt.
goodyear welt is a combination of 2 main things, a welt, which is a strip of (usually leather) thats sewn around the bottm of the shoe, and a raised rib on the perimiter of the insole that allows the welt to be sewn to it (and through the bottm of the upper) by machine instead of by hand. the welt is then stitched down to either just the midsole, or the midsole and outer sole.
hand welted is the same thing, except you sew the welt through the upper and insole at an angle, this allows for less volume on the bottm of the shoe / boot.
welted construction in general however is prone to the welt stitches rotting because they are basically between the sole layers
That's for who asked,¿Why so expensive there are?
Oh if u ever saw those hand made even ready to wear it cost above 400€
3:10 а где супинатор ?
Impresionante,en talleres pequeños como en el que trabajo no hay ,pero sé que en las fábricas grandes ya las utilizan en mi pais
espetacular! Espero um dia termos esse tipo de produto no meu país.
5 no Brasil
adónde puedo comprar una máquina para coser suelas de zapatos
Why oh why don't they make beautiful boots like this for women. Loved the video, but had volume down so didn't hear the 'bad' music....informative enough without commentary, so thumbs up from me.
Thursday Boots have boots for women, even vegan ones.
Because most women are too stupid to buy well made shoes. They put a higher priority on number of shoes vs quality of shoes. They want to have a pair of shoes for every outfit that they wear whereas men are more likely to just have a couple of pairs of shoes for different activities -- sneakers, dress shoes (maybe brown and black), boots (hiking, cowboy, hunting, depending upon what part of the country you are from). Women will have more than that in just the same color. Women will think that each of those styles are completely different whereas a guy just thinks that the woman has 20 pairs of black shoes that all look alike. Women dress up for *other women* not for guys. Guys just don't notice such things. We might notice whether a woman is wearing clothes / shoes or not, but that is about the level of granularity that we notice. You can't say that we are "shallow" since that implies that we have *some* depth. :)
Good work. I didn't know this brand.
Hi, I need this nechnology
without glue or if the glue is missing .... please close the plat
I wonder how much Goodyear gets for their trademark...
The midsole is goodyear welted, but the sole is cemented and can fall off...
totally correct
so it is not real welted
Sir when the welt is stiched, does the thread passes through the inner sole or just the upper leather?
Is it possiable in Nepal ......Lets me try it???
Does anybody know what is the name of that stitching machine at 4: 30?
ESS 828 Fioretto machine.
Gluing the rubber to the bottom seems like a waste considering how much stitching and time went into the rest of the shoe.
These cements are very strong, and having the outsole glued only means easy repairs at almost all cobblers.
@@antifascist1 not really, you would have to replace the leather sole as well because how much glue/cement is being used. Near impossible to just replace the vibram at this point.
@@amanasd26 What? Could you elaborate on what makes the resole "near impossible" because of the glue?
People saying negative stuff about the music: I found it worked really well.
Ça va ça va bien se renseigner le travail
Vibram sole not sewed to the upper as some good boots are.
With all the glue I’m guessing these aren’t fire proof. LOL. Interesting process
Hello from iraq well done
Salam aleykum va rahmatullahi va barakatuh from Tatarstan
My greeting for you
The good year welt symbol at the end shows that you stitch through the sole into the welt....... Which you clearly don't. This sole will easily fall off; medium boot quality at best.
@Live Today
bigly
I want to learn shoemaking of all types with the use of machine and without. Please could you be of help as to where i can learn.
I'm in Nigeria but willing to travel.
I'd really appreciate your response. Thank you.
You are out of your mind dude. I think you missed a few steps
Most boots are not stitched through the sole. Bike is plenty strong and they can be 100% resoled! That's a long life boot all day
Buy for Brazil?
Y los momentos en los cuales colocas el video en blanco y negro es como para que? Justo los pasos mas interesantes!! No tiene mucha lógica!
Tanta vaina y no mostraron el resultado
خیلی خوشکل شد ولی از تمام شده کار لااقل میگذاشتی نگاه میکردیم.
Machine price
Just bought a pair of these! :)
I had to turn it down that music did not go well with this video.
oh....now I can't help myself. Look at the image at both the beginning and the end of this video for "Goodyear welted technology". The red stitch for the welted portion is there. The red colored stitch in the image is not correct! You only stitched to the mid sole and not all the way through like your image has. I hope this is not the untrue logo for your company also.
Would you like some shoe with your glue?
Let's see your video of you making shoes
Maybe learn about shoemaking before commenting next time.
*What is wrong with the music?*
Tres bien pour de l'industriel. 👍
#Interesting #Footwear #Educational #Video!
อยากไปทำร้องเท้าที่โรงงานนี้จัง
ชอบทำงานแบบนี้
I’d you want a clean to the point video about the Goodyear welt construction process, then just go over to Redwing’s channel. And you’ll see better made shoes to boot.👍
Spell check
I would prefer a stitched commando sole vs just glued, but I guess you get what you pay for.
iba muy bien el video y no dejaron ver la bota terminada
Cambien de brocha
Trabalho todo manual agora entendi porque custa tão cara
Good boots but expansive between 250 and 450 not for regular workers
Amazing👍
damn. they put in some work
Please stop using "fade to white" for every transition. It is okay to cut on action, or even to jump cut.
просто все в клею один клей!
I want to start this busssiness in india in My city can u help me for this pleas
This is a big Italian company - I don't think they will.
You really don't need to make any part black and white. Also, stop using such narrow depth of field. close the f-stop some so more parts are in focus. Too much of it is out of focus.
Very nice good job
The Ultimate if Men's Footwear.