Easy How to: Replacing Front Shocks on 2002-2009 Dodge Ram 2500/3500
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 13 ม.ค. 2022
- This is a Simple How to DIY front shock replacement on 2002-2009 Dodge Ram 2500/3500. This install is on my 2005. Only took me about 45 minutes and saved me some money.
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www.xtremediesel.com/bilstein...
www.shockwarehouse.com/site/p... / bobby.newton_figsoutside
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Man I have no idea why I never realized this I have purposely not done my front shocks thinking I'd have to wrestle those coils. Which is not what I want to do on a 2500. Thanks for this video. Off to do them now! 😅
Be sure to hit the back of the bolts with some WD40 or something of the sort. Not sure what bolt size they are, but some folks have had them break the spot weld while try to bust the 21mm loose. Good luck 🍀. Thanks for watching.
@@figsoutside1981 man I tell you what, that made life so much easier! I did have trouble with the driver side 18 mill on top and the 9. It was stuck on there and no room with the break booster and intake horn and battery but finally got it off. Still was way easier IMO than pulling the coils out. Thanks again!
Glad it worked out for you 👍🏼. Thanks for the update on how it went. Yeah, way more easier than pulling the coils😳. Thanks again for the compliment.
Nice video. It was helpful that you gave the nut/bolt size and torque amount. I just changed the shocks and steering damper on my '03 Ram 3500 with 148K miles and original shocks to Bilsteins.
Some helpful tool hints: 19mm = 3/4"; 21mm = 13/16".
And 14mm is 9/16, this is not a metric truck
No, they are Not the same! Yes you can use standard, but you’ll find that the metric on many of them is a better tighter fit on Many bolts,which equals less chance of stripping nuts and bolts and vise versa. AND since this is not a metric truck, try getting a standard size to fit the oil pan bolts or seeing what sizes fit better on any of the main body bolts. Good luck
Thanks for the video! have to do the shocks on an 09 2500 and I was pretty sure it would be as easy as it looked and your vid was perfect in showing that. Also love your comment at then end about doing the other side gave me a good giggle haha.
Glad it’ll help. Hehehe yeah it was funny. Thanks for watching.
Awsome video definitely helps me out 👍👍👍👍
Thanks man. Glad and happy it helped you. Thank You for watching and the compliment.
Thanks buddy great video helped a ton
@Rick of Rivia You’re more than welcome man. Thanks for the compliment and for watching. Greatly appreciated.
Thanks for saving me a lot of time. Great video! I may have missed it in the video, but backup allen key in top of upper shock bolt is 6mm in case anyone wonders.
Mine seems to be a 9 mm on the top shock bolt
This is awesome. I've been putting off changing the front socks because I thought it was going to be a similar job where you need the spring compression tools to get the shock out (like how most vehicles do). Thanks for this!
You’re welcome, thanks for watching
Very great video thanks
Thank you for watching and the compliment.
Great vid!!
viz
@cory8791 thank You.
I was also thinking I had to mess with the coils and compress them. Totally going to do this as future project.
I’d get the lower shock mount bolts a good soaking of WD-40, Liquid Wrench or something several times to get that stuff worked into the threads.
I carefully torque all the bolts to, that seems pretty good with the air ratchet and impact. Trust me, when you break as many things as I have, you know when it’s good. 😂
Let’s play a drinking game. Everytime he says “Alright guys” “Sorry about that” “Anyways” shotgun a beer.
Thanks for the help tho 😂 good video
😂🍻🍻🍻
thanks
Thanks dude! Rocking out my front and rear tomorrow. Would it be easier to leave them comperssed with the factory ties until after you get the front towers over and started? Just preplanning and wondering if its been tried.
@onebaddj Your very welcome, I’ve heard about it, but never tried it myself. They really aren’t that bad to compress though. I’ve actually got to do the wife’s 3500 Dodge here in the near future so I might try that….If you do let me know man how it works for you?
Just a note on this:
Suspend the truck with jackstands near the transfer case cross member. Snug floor jack up under differential but do not lift. Remove all mounting hardware. Slowly lower front axle. Remove old shock and tower. Place new shock in lower mount and tighten bolt. Place shock tower and lower insulator and washer on top of shock. Make sure the upper shock bolt is started in hole through shock tower. Lift axle using jack. Shock will compress as axle is raised. Place upper insulator and washer over top of shock. Tighten upper shock bolt. No need to compress shock by hand if done this way.
@@Jlschm nice! Had the world shit so only got my rear ones done. Thanks for the info.
@@onebaddj no problem! Good luck!
Thanks for the tip. I’ll give it a whirl when I find time to do my 3500.
How do you like those Blisten shocks? Been debating Blisten or Fox? Any suggestions? Again, thanks!
I really like them. I’ve never ran Fox shocks, but I do know a couple guys that do and they like them. I’ve done some research on Fox shocks and they seem dang near the same as Bilstein, but for the $$ I went with Bilsteins.
Thanks appreciate the input ! Best regards…
Same to you. Thanks for asking and watching.
How did you get the 21mm out? I can get a socket on the head of the bolt but the nut has a tiny hole to get access to it and I can't get my hand in even let alone a socket
It should just be the bolt. The nut side usually fixed to the housing. If not for whatever reason, your best bet would be to bore out that tiny hole on the backside. Hopefully this helps. Let me know!
@@figsoutside1981 yeah we had to bore out the hole...the nut was busted loose from the assembly...what a fun time that truck was lol
@Kolonl1 that’s usually how my repairs go, never as they should be, hahaha. Good times all around. Thanks for watching and for letting me know.
@@figsoutside1981 no problem...and yeah my repairs go like that usually too...have a 99 ram 2500 that I am building my own thing out of and I pulled the cab and cleaned the frame...everything was going great...pulled the bed...got to a spot in front of the rear shackle mount and went through....that entire frame is PERFECT except for THAT spot and I can put my fist through it.........so I'm going to cut it off and fabricate. Some parts HAHAHA
Hi there :) How do you get the shock out of the driver side ? There’s a whole rack of break gear above the shock tower. My man is wondering down in the garage
@Caroline Lee It just slides out once you remove the shock tower. Might have to kinda fanaggle it through the opening in front of the brake stuff.
@@figsoutside1981 ah, right. Ok so the problem is we can’t get the shock free from the cage. The nut at the top of the tower is tiny and won’t budge. We stripped it on the other and ended up taking both the cage and the old shock out together and sawzalling the nut off to free the cage. But on this side the cage won’t fit through the brake gear. Strange that nut is so delicate. Even on the new shocks it’s tiny. Any thoughts ? Thanks. Happy Sunday
@Caroline Lee Hmm, dang that really sucks. Sorry so late, just got off work. Did you take out the inner fender? If so, if you have a dremel tool, you can use the cutting disc and cut the nut/shock post off with that?
@@figsoutside1981 great idea ! He’s gone out for his dremmel , thanks !!
@ Caroline Lee let me know how it works out.
He told us it was a 21 mm for the bolt at the bottom of the shocks. What about the nut on the other end?
That is what I was wondering.
Do your obliterated sterring stabilzer next. Chuck the K&N too. Project Farm rated it best flowing because it lets the most dirt through. Take some white tissue and rub it in the turbo. Normally guys find a fine dust. The stock Fleetguard or Wix do a great job.
Lol, I don’t run a steering stabilizer. You must mean the sway bar links? I actually have some Moog ones that I need to put in. I replaced the stock filter years ago, because I had lots of fine mountain dust in the intake tube. Haven’t had an issue with the K&N though. Love watching Project Farm. Thanks for the info though and for watching.
What do you mean you don’t run a stabilizer shock? That front shock on the tie rod bar is the stabilizer shock, your sway bar links are gone and your tie rod ends are probably smoked as well. Bilstien makes a stabilizer shock for your truck that’s what I run.
Oops my bad. Was thinking of my Jeep.
Yes, I was actually thinking of my Jeep for some odd reason. Probably because I’ve been working on it also. New Dana HP60. Anyway, yeah the sway bar links are shot. Tie rod ends are actually good, replaced them couple years ago. Have some moog links my bro gave me, but really looking at the SuspensionMAXX ones. How do you like you Bilstein stabilizer?
I love the bilstiens! But now my damn gearbox is finally going out! Original one in it 253k on it I’d say she’s hung in there long enough lol time to put a redhead in it I suppose.
Hitting the top bolt with a battery impact gets it undone easy.
Good tip. 👍🏼
replace that y style steering with the upgraded t style.drives better less tire wear
Thanks for the info, I’ll definitely have to look into it👍🏼.
Your sway bar links are shot
@Chris Starr yeah I know. Need to replace them too.
that passenger control arm connector is shot too
You talking about the sway bar connector? Yeah, the dust boots are way shot out..
Easy? Me doing the entire shock change in my driveway, took 5 hours. Front passenger lower mount was a bitch.
Well sometimes, stuff just doesn’t go right. That really sucks.
my lower 21 mm just spins
Sorry to get back to you so late, if you look under and on the back side, you might be able to get a wrench on there. Gonna be a pretty tight fit though. Hope this helps or hopefully you already got it.
@@robertmayer2071 I hear yeah I’m trying to figure out what size nut is on the back
gonna fix it today bolt head is 21 mm what size is nut?
Won't work on Diesel as battery boxes are in way
This is my diesel, Dodge Ram 2500 5.9L