One more common issue I've found and heard of on these trucks is the rear door wiring. If you have window/speaker/or lock issues with your rear door it could be the cabling in the boot when you open the rear door. This is a common issue since the doors open wide and the cables are constantly being bent back and forth.
You are correct… Since those doors open at 90° they can stretch out the wires. I’ve already fixed the harnesses by adding 7 to 8 cm to each wire. I also added a little silicone grease inside so they slide through inside the boot. Took a little bit of time… Actually just about 5 to 6 hours one day. Never look back. Everything works just like it came off the show room.
My 06 has lasted 300k miles bone stock with basic maintenance. Have only just started having trans issues on the auto. It’s a great truck and I love the thing.
Just found your channel. I have a 2006 2500 Mega Cab. My dad was the original owner. When he passed away in 2019 I took ownership. 140k miles. Love this truck.
05 all stock but run better Baldwin fuel filter in it. 123k and no issues. Rebuild the front end at a 100k and upgrade steering. Well worth it long term. Change batteries every 4 years and clean ALL grounds on engine and other points including cables after 10 years. Make sure the yellow wire under the fusebox for the starter is clean with good connection. Keeping mine forever.
@@bribbripnairbnab7301 I did ball joints, wheel bearings, and all U-joints as well as new discs, front driveshaft, brakes and a few other steering related items. Got 134K on it and I do a couple items preventative or upgrade each year. Also, do the belt tensioner and water pump every 75K. Going to do lithium batteries and new cables over the Winter if the reviews are worthwhile... Some of those ultra expensive ball joints just aren't worth it. Wheel bearings and brakes need replaced every 100k plus or so which takes me about 6-7 years or more on the garage queen that doesn't pull anything except my remote camp setup in the topper and my fat butt....I'll die of old age before I get break even on some of those items where a decent wear items work fine..maybe if I was younger......
The sad fact is that I’ve had issues with all thing that you mentioned except the injectors! Thankful the last owner of my truck was smart enough to replace them and put on a fass! And the blend doors was super easy! Just time consuming and definitely requires two sets of hands with the dash
dash is easy to get out. the blend doors i got were absolute junk. dont forget the recirc door tower was updated and the truck will never really cool without the later model one. 06 is by far the worst year to own.
Was chasing a start/stall and stalling while driving issue for months until i saw this video. Replaced the batteries and both issues resolved immediately. Thanks a lot!
These are all very true! I do have 280k on injectors and CP3 no fass or airdog just take really good care of fuel and run standayne, knock on wood! But my tipm, trans front and I have had to replace and the bettry part is 100% true! Run interstate great video! Most of this you can fix your self! Love my 5.9 CR I’ll keep in running!
This was a very informative video. I did have issues with the blend doors and i did the entire repair (HVAC, blend doors and a/c) myself. It took roughly a month to do the whole system, but it was well worth it. I did use blend door USA and they really are the greatest blend doors you can put in the truck. Everything is machined aluminum even the gearing and there are a couple of videos on how to do that. Whether you have a a double cab or a megacab cab truck. I also did the big three upgrade on both batteries. I made all the cables myself. I wish I could show you pictures of what I did but it did solve many electrical problems. All the ground wires were changed to 1/0 except for the ground wire leading from the passenger battery to the alternator which I made a 2/0 gauge wire. I also made a 2/0 gauge ground wire from the engine block to both batteries. All the ground wires that were currently connected to the batteries I pulled out and made 1/0 gauge ground wires. The crossover cable is a 4/0 gauge because it has to keep a consistent charge going over to the driver side battery along with making sure you have a strong current going to the starter and also to the entire electrical system of the truck. I also use aluminum battery connectors from GP audio which were six block connectors so as if you needed to add anything in the future… Amplifiers, or any other type of electrical made you can bolt right to the battery terminal. I also added a high amp alternator from Mechman to help keep the same charged up and your batteries charged up. One thing nobody talks about is if you’re doing start and stop take driving or making a lot of stops actually stopping the engine you have to keep those batteries charged up. Hi output alternator helps do that pretty efficiently. Upgrading all of your ground wires and power wires is a great start but you will need to eventually get a higher output alternator. You are definitely correct stating that a lift pump is needed on these trucks. The CP3 and stock fuel filter really are not enough. You need to get some pressure to those injectors and clean water free fuel. I would also suggest after getting a lift on removing the stock pump which I think you have to do anyway. Once I get the lift pump and get some of the transmission work done I feel that the truck will probably last forever. The third GEN dodge Cummins is awesome truck… It just needs some upgrades to make it a long lasting great truck. Again this was an awesome video and very informative. Love to shoot you some pics of mine when I’m done in a few months. Cheers keep the videos coming!
@@JustDiesels I’m looking into buying a 2005 3500 Cummins with manual 6 speed. With 140k miles an old man truck. Would you say it’s a good truck? It has been maintained very well all stock and and old man driver.
These videos are phenomenal. You do an awesome job of communicating issues with recommendations. As someone trying to educate themselves on the trucks as much as I can before I buy one, its much appreciated. Keep up the strong work bud
Replacing the stock starter with a Mean Green gear reduction starter really helped my starting. Engine now starts very quickly and it just seems easier on the engine.
Great video. This is one of the most high quality channels on TH-cam. The quality is consistently top noch. I personally would like to see videos in this style looking at 2nd gen Cummins and 7.3 Powerstroke(both OBS and SD) trucks
I have told people about the injector test for awhile! I actually first discovered it, for myself, on accident. Noticed the rpm hop as unusual...but didn't know why... and when I replaced injectors it was smooth as butter. Since I've figured that was a injector slightly hanging open. And confirmed it with many experts as well as a go to test for early failure
I’ve got an 06, bought it new. 147k miles now. For the last 70k miles have used power service every tank. Truck is bone stock never had a tuner plugged in. I am also meticulous on maintenance, have never missed, and have used 100% Fleetguard products. I feel like my truck runs perfect. Great power, no smoke, starts fast, all exactly the same as when it was brand new, and I should know because I’ve had this truck since it had only 7 miles on it. Also do Blackstone labs tests at every oil change and my fuel in oil comes back at
@michaelxr2460 Yes. If you have not upgraded the fuel filter system to a CAT style, at the very least a simple inline block between your stock can and cp3. I did that to mine. If you do, make sure to use MARINE Diesel hose ONLY. No black rubber at all. 147k on stock injectors is about the end of its life. It's probably not doing any damage yet if you aren't noticing alot of white smoke. It will always haze a tiny bit. If you are on a tight budget and can't afford brand new Bosch. I know a personal builder from eBay. Retired bosch tech. Way better quality than any other vendor (cough Inj Dir) New is obviously best. But GOOD reman injectors by a GOOD builder that flow tests them right with proper equipment is required. The guy I used I quizzed like crazy and he was always on the ball knew a ton about injectors and told me exactly how another vendor ripped me off
Great video bro. I just commented on another one of your videos. TIPM was my issue cuz my tail lights won’t work haha. So great to hear you say that. My buddy figured it out but where the fuse goes I had no power to those wires for the tail lights, therefore it’s the TIPM box. I even put my stock lights back on to see if my leds were bad. TIPM was $700 hard pill to swallow for a blinker.
Thank you for the information and concise videos, I wish I had found them sooner. As to point #3, my 06 has been suffering from intermittent and bizarre electrical problems including one low beam going out, one wiper speed, rear tail light going out, odd starting habits and more. I changed out the batteries and soldered in new terminations for the crossover/assorted connections and half of my project list evaporated. I will add that cleaning the TIPM connectors underneath the fuse box should be a annual/semi annual inspection point. Cheers!
A true and precise assement of engine internals is to have an oil analysis report from a lab. The report clearly states what metalurgical components are present in the sample you provide them. I used Amsoil Anaysis service, my cost for the lab in Edmonton Alberta Canada was $45.00 and the report I received indicated zero problems in my '03 Ram. A genuine reliable indicator of whats happeneing inside your 5.9.
Hi - I am somewhat perplexed with my issue I'm having with my 2005 Dodge Ram 3500, 5.9. Not sure which direction to go at this point. I am the original owner, truck is complete stock with just over 238K miles on it. Last year (2023) in October, I was just cresting a hill at highway speeds around 75 mph. I let off on the throttle and I got the infamous 10 bell dings, and the WTS light that came on. I was within 4 miles of my place so I drove it home and shut it off. The code I got and still have is the P1222 code which from my research, indicated that my injectors were bad. I bought rebuilt injectors from Injectors Direct in California along with new tubes. I installed them within the specs that I had gained from watching many You Tube videos building my confidence. Before the install, the truck seemed to start, run and show no indication of low power or odd smoke issues. Ran perfectly. During the install I also adjusted the valves. When I finished, the truck ran perfectly as before, sounded great but the same P1222 code & WTS light issues were still showing. I dove back into the injectors ensuring I had everything torqued correctly and in place. Even after this second re-install, the same codes were STILL in and the truck starts and runs perfectly, idles smoothly, possibly a minute amount of smoke but thinking this could be from sitting for 12 months. This makes me think the rebuilt injectors are good. I have a Inova 5610 ODB2 reader but it will not allow me to delete the P1222 code. I disconnected the batteries for over a week, disappated the charge on the system but cannot get the code to delete. As a risk, I changed out the PRV, the MAP sensor, the pressure sensor and also the Cascade Overflow valve but to "no avail". Like I said, the truck seems to run perfectly as I start it to move it around my place on occasion during the last year but other than that, it has just set in the yard for this past year. I'm kinda thinking that maybe I need to have a mechanic "flash" the computer to get rid of the code but don't want to spend the money to do so if it's just going to come back in. I tested the Injectors' return flows, which all tested good. The idling fuel pressure is between ~690 and ~790 psi. My OBD reader shows the fuel pressure as over 20000 psi when I increase the throttle pressure. It's too good of a truck to abandon it and I need it for pulling my boat. Any chance you or someone has any suggestions that might help me get this rig back on the road? Thanks in advance.
Tipm was bad on my 06. Had it rebuilt. No more problems. Only one headlight would work and the previous owner gave up and sold it to me cheap. Lol Just like u said. 👍🏻. Took me about two weeks to figure it out. Definitely had me pulling my hair out. 😂
My 2003 2500 TD Quad Cab is one awesome truck. It's a long bed that came out of Alaska and is tricked out for that area. Standard in all aspects except, it's got an insulated camper, running boards, brush guard, tow hitch, long bed, set up for a snow plow and has a block heater. I bought it in 2010 for a song with only 37,xxx miles on the clock. It now has 128,xxx miles on it and my only issue has been a bad water pump at 50,xxx miles and a left tail light that just loves to blow out about every6 months, regardless of weather. I love this truck!
You put lift kits and big tires , you get to go down that road of front repairs I run stock and 153K miles and no problems but I did change out the Y rod and put the old style on where tie rod goes from wheel to wheel and drag link and have to change pitman arm to make it all work and work it does and neoprene bushing in your track bar .if you have a lack of air flow just pull the blower motor and it is easy to pluck 3 screws and blower motor comes out . Then reach up inside vent and grab that broke door and spin it around and comes right out and everything will work if that’s the only door that is broken and this door is for inside and outside air so if you don’t want outside air roll your windows up and fresh air open a little .
Very accurate. Original owner of an ‘03 and I’ve dealt with all but the electrical issues. At 300k miles I can’t imagine replacing it though. It’s SO easy to work on. Nice vid. Thanks
Asking for advice. I've got a 2005 Dodge, 5.9 Cummins. A year ago I was motoring at highway speeds, let off on the throttle on a hill and got the multi "bell warning dings" and the Wait to Start (WTS) light came on and stayed on. The truck runs fine though. The code that came in with the WTS light is P1222 which points to injectors. With 235K miles on it, I resigned to just replace all injectors. I did so with rebuilds from what I thought to be a reputable retailer. Once installed, along with new feed tubes and also new lines from the tube to common rail, the truck ran the same, starts fine, no noticeable black or white smoke, no loss of power, etc. But, the P1222 code and WTS light are still on. I retorqued all injectors, tubes and retaining nuts two separate times to just a little tighter than stock foot lbs. I performed 3 main troubleshooting tasks starting with the Relief Valve test which passed just fine. Then I tested the return flow from the CP3 which passed within the recommended return flow. Then, I tested the injector return flow (all injectors in place and uncapped). This test also passed with a recommended return flow of less than 180ml. Mine was right around 85-100ml. I tested this twice to make sure. Still, the WTS and P1222 code stay on and the truck runs just fine. I tried erasing the code with my Inova 5610 OBD reader but it will not remove the P1222 code. I also disconnected the batteries for about 2 weeks to see if it would remove the code to no avail. I've since replaced the Pressure Relief valve, Cascade Overflow Valve, MAP Sensor, Fuel Filter and Pressure Sensor. Mostly just to ensure they were not the issue. Still, the truck starts and runs fine. I am wondering "IF" taking it to someone who can "Flash" the computer to remove the P1222 code will only lead to it coming back in or if it is possibly just stuck in the computer and holding me up from using my truck. I don't drive it with all this going on for fear of burning a hole in my pistons. I'm at a loss for not knowing how to fix this truck at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
You put lift kits and big tires , you get to go down that road of front repairs I run stock and 153K miles and no problems but I did change out the Y rod and put the old style on where tie rod goes from wheel to wheel and drag link and have to change pitman arm to make it all work and work it does and neoprene bushing in your track bar .
Good info, cluster is sensitive too, print is stuck on really tight on the plastic housing, due to cold/warm environment the print bends and connections fail.
just picked up a 3rd gen, 6" lift, 37's, winch, and all kinds of stuff. Pretty good so far. Just had to have the one piece drive shaft rebalanced and new rear u joints. Looking at manual hubs now. Thanks Andrew!
I had issues with my TIPM in my 2006 truck. My headlights didn't work. Had to send my TIPM out to Mak's TIPM Rebuilders in California. They had to replace a couple parts in it, clean the board, and reprogram my TIPM. It was 220 dollars to have done and fixed my lights.
My 2006 mega cab Cummins has had the tipm issues and the hvac door issue. Look for the video on how to get to the blend door after it breaks and remove it. It’s free and solves the problem. Except you lose the ability to choose between outside air and recirculated air. It will always be outside air once you remove the door.
My original factory injectors lasted 300,000 miles bone stock truck bone stock filtration. I put new injectors and CP3 pump in I have 435,000 miles now still going and it’s the original automatic transmission. My opinion is most problems are caused by tuning a diesel if you leave it stock it’ll last you forever and not give you hardly any problems
Only do that if you’re looking for 500hp or more. The stock ones are fully capable of moving plenty of fuel! Unless you plan to do a turbo and larger cp3, it’s easiest to just stick with the stock sizing.
@@Rangerdnger That’s crazy man. Sounds like a very well taken care of truck! My 06 has gone thru 2 engines one at 60k miles (factory recall warranty replaced) and the other at 170k(ran low on oil, trashed the engine). It got a rebuilt engine in 2015. It’s always been stock and the filtration system is giving me issues. I’ve already gone thru 2 sets of injectors since the rebuild and now when I give it too much throttle or when it’s under a heavy load it just bogs out and loses power, But when I’m driving in town it does just fine or at 65-70mph with no load. Overall the truck is just really slow and a rough ride and I’m looking to give it a light build but I want to do it right, maybe 500-800hp, keep in mind, it’s a 12,000lb 1 ton dually with a 6 speed g56. It’s been a welding rig it’s whole life so it’s been used and abused, hauled a 5th wheel many times and it’s always on the highways. It has trouble pulling a 5th wheel at 100 degrees because I live in Texas. I really just want a slightly bigger turbo with bigger injectors, a fass fuel and all the minor upgrades that come in between (cold air intake etc.). I use the truck every day and I want some more power out of it because it gets very old sitting at 65mph on 8 hour drives haha. I do agree though, stock is most of the time better if the truck has been maintained properly it’s whole life and has no issues. I really want to figure out the best setup without going super overboard, and have it perform better in all aspects, power, fuel mileage, keeping down temperatures, and most of all being fun to drive, I plan to keep it forever and use it as my daily for a while until I get something else to drive around town
great video, thanks. bought a 03 with 230k miles on it. i have the maintenance records so can see what's done. original injectors (no symptoms of issues) original trans, all stock. lift pump was pre-emptively replaced earlier this year (OEM design unfortunately). previous owner always used fuel additive and replaced fuel filter frequently. TIPM was recently replaced, however I still get occasional "lamp out" light and flickering 4x4 light. HVAC on passenger side doesn't really work so blend door must be pooched. Also minor water leak from cab lights dripping from sun visor clips after very heavy rain. basically all the common stuff, lol.
I’ll add a couple more; my seat motor came apart. I bought this truck used and it was previously in an accident. I can tell because the inside of the bed shows some different colors from the scratches. Then the transmission pressure control. It is electronic and the motor seized up in a high pressure situation. The end of that story was a fire under the hood. Now I have a temp gauge on the trans and I upgraded the valve body and added a deeper aluminum pan . It’s an 06, 48RE, computer controlled trans. Love the truck though.
If you don’t get much air out of you vents is the blend door for outside air inside air just open passenger door and down under dash is blower motor unplug the Harned take out 3 screws and blower motor comes tight out and reach up inside and spins door so little comes right out put back together and your good to go and takes 15 mins the first time you do it. Hope this helps it did on my 05 had to run blower on low or the ac would freeze you out . If it works it will save you about 1700 bucks the aluminum cnc machined which is a permanent fix and at 315.00 bucks just for the great doors .
Two other problems are the number four fuel line leak and transmission fluid regulator screen plugging. For belts, the dodge chirp is well known if a low quality belt is used, and the tensioner is not replaced at the same time. The one I cannot solve is the bucking from the cruise control going down hill unloaded. Any thoughts here? Finally, the TPIM is a very poor design since even the trailer circuit goes through this unit. My boat trailer shorted out and took the trailer circuit on the TIPM with it. I highly recommend isolating this external circuit with a cheap $ 30 auto reseting trailer module. Dodge engineers should be embarrassed with not including this type of circuit on a $1500 circuit board.
@fishonnelson2353 No. Still searching th web for ideas. The bucking got slightly better when I swapped the transmission governor solenoid with a GM conversion kit. My guess is the crappy transmission is the source. The swap is good to implement since the dodge solenoid has a very small fluid screen and can easily plug.
-Great Video! My blend door actuators need replacement , my Total Integrated control module went out I haven't had interior lights in months till I checked it. And I got a Mopar Big box on the way with some Carli Heavy Duty ball joints to help my front end slop. Very true video! Granted I have 340,000 miles
Before you take the dash out to fix the Blend Door, Check the Control on the dash. we took the dash out only to find that the Blend door was OK and the controller on the dash was bad, ( a 20 Min Fix) Check it first.
Hey man thanks for your videos I love watching them I've been following you for a while and you've got some great content thank you for sharing. I have the same truck you are spot on with all of those things I just got it back from the shop getting transmission and turbo done ouch but I'm glad I did it and I'm doing water pump today and going to be looking at the blend doors here ASAP as that is the issue that I'm still stuck on figuring that all out or if I can do it myself basically. Really appreciate all of your helpful videos and the information is always excellent so thank you keep up the good work man!
Well now I get to add the TIPM to my list. I put new headlights on my truck and added brighter lights. The increased draw caused the tipm to shut off the headlights. I’m wiring in relays to lower amp draw and hoping it will reset so I don’t have to go to a dealer to get it reflashed. There is a hard reset video out there that I will try before going to the dealer for an hour labor charge.
You nailed the problems. The blend doors piss me the most. We have have had the doors fixed twice and still having problems. No heat to the feet. I just wear thick socks I 😂😂
Nice video. I'm looking forward to more. If you haven't done one on sunroofs leaking you might look into it. Pretty common I understand. My 2006 Megadually does it. I'd never buy another with a sunroof but I don't know if the design of the drain system was improved.
My 03 has the blend door issues. It works when it wants to. By far my worst issue is RUST. My frame rotted right where the cab and bed meet. I ended up welding boxes over these sections
The battery part you spoke of is so true. I went out one morning to my truck & it wouldn’t start. Lights flashing crazy on the dash & the weirdest thing about it all, my key fob that never works cause I have yet to put a battery in the key fob started working, I thought what the fuck & changed the batteries anyway, all is well, only problem I’ve ever had out of my 3rd gen & she’s 203k strong, still running like a champ!
Personally 180k miles i had an Injector fail and Nuke a cylinder. Being a machinist just refreshed and made it better but I could understand that being a big downside to someone with not a big budget for mods later down the line. Also you’ll need a trans if you got a 48re so expect 10k for that for a good one
@@Nathang2233 that’s what I thought. Then I ordered one and after shipping and what not ended up being 7900$ and then after install probably 9k or more. Also rebuilt t case so there’s that 10k. If you’re on a budget probably could do it for a bit less.
I agree. I have an 08 power wagon and this generation is a nice modern comfortable ride but still feels like a truck. While not a diesel it is a six speed, so it doesn't have cylinder deactivation. Just straight eight cylinders all the time. I can see myself never getting rid of it.
@@JustDiesels considering I specifically told them not to mess with the set of tires in the bed and they had had my truck from nov-april after trying to duck me often. Thinks it was done maliciously. That death wobble took out a brand new ball joint too...
That’s a prank I learned decades ago from my grandpa, that was definitely intentional. Easiest way to find it is to park with the valve stem at 6 o’clock, the release air and water will come out.
SUPPOSEDLY you can reset the tipm by holding the trip button on the cluster and turn the key to on position without starting the truck. May clear up small issues (i.e. reverse lights not working)
ya man i agree with you on the automatic transmission that people like to bs, harp on dodge. as a trained Technician from Universal Technical Institute my transmission teacher said that any automatic stock transmission weather its a car or truck any make or module that once it reaches 100,000 miles it will start to have problems. im pretty sure you already know this but i wanted to state it again. on the other hand most manuals are bullet prof. the cast iron cases are way stronger witch i know you know that also.
One thing I might add is I have a 2008 and it eats front u-joints. I have to replace them every 25k-40K miles. And I am pretty religious greasing the front end so I don't know. Great vid!
The blend door that controls inside outside air just take out three screws and blower motor comes and reach up inside and grab blend door and toss it and if you want fresh air crack a window if you want inside roll window up. So this is a quick fix and may be good for several more years or 1 year before a diffrent door to break.
I recently discovered your channel and I think you are doing a great job! I am considering getting an 06' 5.9 for towing the travel trailer, coming from a 2016 Ford F150. One concern you addressed is the loss of comfort. My question to you is, could you share the market for someone to upgrade the interior? I see in your videos you seem to have an after market GPS screen installed, how about improved seats, etc.. Keep up the good work!
Would really enjoy hearing some clutch info, recently picked myself up a 3rd gen g56 and have spiraled through almost all your videos! Love the content man
I really wanted to put some miles on my new Valair DD quiet ceramic clutch before doing a review, but it’s coming! Now I’ve gotten time to tow, off road etc so I have a good feel for it.
@@JustDiesels Thats actually one of the clutches ive been looking at, currently has a south bend dual disc set up, and while its probably stout, its super noisy and probably overkill for my application.
I had a problem with my 04.5 and I dug into some forums and seemed like it was a problem,I had a electrical drain and it ended up being the horn pad,I had to completely disconnect the horn pad so I have no horn and can’t get the horn pad anywhere because it also has the airbag integrated into it and with all the airbag recalls it’s hard to get one,will just put in a train horn or something
Buying one off my dad, gotta rebuild suspension and do interior stuff but it’s 220k miles on stock injectors no lift pump so I know I’ll need new ones soon
Hey when you went over the injectors and trans I wondered if you have tried any of the amsoil solutions. Given i just came from you top 5 tips for cummins oil tips. I am thinking the Amsoil Cetane boost+ Injector clean every other oil change (for injectors) and Amsoil Transmission fluid( trrans/ torque converter life)!
I run fuel additives, but that doesn’t fix mechanical wear in the system from poor filtration or general usage sadly. There’s a common myth that fuel injector cleaners will magically “fix” worn injectors, but it’s just people hoping for a cheap fix to a more complex problem. That said, proper fuel additives to prolong life over long term usage. ATF is not a proper additive though.
I'm still trying to figure out what's causing the wandering In the frontend of my 12 Ram 2500 Cummins. I've either replaced or paid to have them replaced except the tie rods and control arms . I was going to replace the tie rods and control arms but the garages I've taken it to basically refuse to replace parts they say are still good.? I replaced the Track Bar with a Carli track bar myself because they wouldn't! It did improve the wandering a little but not completely. I guess I have to keep looking for a shop that Will replace the parts I want without questioning why! The truck is stock height as far as I can tell. It's being used to tow a 5R with a Reese Goosebox we are full-time RVrs. This wandering makes driving more than a couple hundred miles a day very exhausting! I don't want to trade it in because it's a 12 no Def fluid! And it's a southern truck with no rust anywhere!. maybe I have to take it to diesel brothers to get the front end rebuilt? What I did find odd is nobody makes better control arms for a stock height? The factory arms are so weak looking being stamped metal. I don't want to raise it because the Gooseneck is at the perfect height.
The factory arms aren’t your issue! If the track bar is good, check the upper column, steering shaft, steering box, and ball joints for play. I have a whole video showing how! These little guys are a huge help for the upper column: www.cjcoffroad.com/products/emf-dodge-ram-intermediate-shaft-bushing
My 05 is driving me crazy. Popped prv and I replaced both the prv and the fca. It ran great for a few months although I did still have a p1222 code for high injector return. But the truck still ran and drove fine. About a month ago, it started running rough (no white smoke or anything even on start up.) But I have a huge power loss at even the slightest incline, And I can watch rail pressure drop to 2k psi. Both hard acceleration and hills do the same. But I now have 2 fca doing the exact same thing. One being the new one I bought like 5 months ago. I have a fleece in tank proflow lift pump (dual gear pump) so I don't think its the lift pump supply. But I guess we'll see once I get another new fca. Kinda pissed I didn't even put 1k miles on the other one. But the truck has the p0251 code and im at a loss as to what else could be the issue and im hoping its not the ecm.
I think around 2005 they went to a different piston and that eliminated most white smoke when an injector is leaking but that means you might not know it is happeniing, unlike with earlier engines that puff the smoke.
@Just Diesels when I bought the truck It had a cheap external pump like a fass clone without the filter box. It had rubber fuel hoses that I had to reuse for the supply side. Turns out that fucken thing walked its way up the fuel tank and got pinched between the frame rail and the tank. Fixed that and it's working fine now. Still have an odd issue with the wts light coming on every now and then on the highway. 8-9 chimes then after a few seconds it shuts off
I have a 05 Ram 3500 Cummins diesel all stock the only issue I have is my blower won’t come on but the ac light will and nothing will come out of the vents it works when it wants to
Nice video, brings up some good points especially with the electrical issues, and front end are both often over looked. Was going to do a video myself of top 3 or 5 upgrades on these trucks, and Carli Truck Bar, was going to be one of them. Everyone says CAI and Exhaust but I think you get more bang for your buck with other upgrades.
Got an 03 Cummins with a 6 speed with apparently an injector going bad because the rpm hangs when you let off the throttle like you said in the test. So at this point it's just time for a set of injectors right? Is great video by the way
i just bought a 2006 cummins about 3 months ago with 250,000 miles never been tuned or anything along those lines and still with the stock exhaust and trans is fine, the owner said he did regular flushes on it and it’s never had an issue
And you will need to change out everything ac evaporator and heater coil and your motors the move the blend doors and I think their 3 of them do that and your done and the new blend doors are cnc machined aluminum so it’s a one and done .
I've had to do all of these except my trans on my 06 with 206k. A good alternative for a Fass is a trc 10 which simply adds an extra fuel filter and water separator for less than half the cost.
Curious on your thoughts. I currently own a 6.0 that’s been a good truck. Not a fan of the lift in it and reverting to stock or dropping to dropping to lower lift just isn’t possible with cost or finding parts. So kind of looking for either another 6.0 or a 5.9 3rd gen with a standard trans. I’m fairly familiar with the 6.0 and also been around the block with the N14 Cummins before. Which way you think would be better? 5.9 or 6.0 that’s had the issues addressed (studs, coolant filters, etc)? Mostly to tow boat/camper
I needed to get running without buying a tipm so I signaled a relay with the working headlight to power the non working headlight. Rear light I wired into the trailer plug...
Great video bro you've covered some major topics that I ran into with my truck Question have you ran into any issues with the ABS if so what did you figure out or notice
Love watching you videos on your 3rd gen trucks. I have two 2004 that I purchased new but they're the 1500 5.7L hemi which I've maintained very well and look beautiful. Your videos inspire me to keep and enjoy my trucks for many years more. Your truck and my trucks have many things in common so your videos are very helpful to me. One of my trucks has that reving symptom that you mentioned. I'll have to check into those injectors. Thanks for your great videos. Keep them 3rd gen videos coming.
I got a 07 5.9 mega cab and I have one issue. It’s weird, when I drive on asphalt it’s smooth as butter. But when I get on concrete it’s sooooo bumpy I can hardly stand it. There are a few long highways where I live that are almost like concrete slabs I-25 and highway 14 in Colorado. Fort Collins area. I have 33x12.50R17 BFG KM3 tires. Best tires I’ve ever had. I don’t believe it’s the tires. But I can’t pinpoint it at all. When I have a load on the back, the heavier the smother but when I’m empty it’s a mess.
Stock trucks Fuel filter changes Fuel additives(generous amounts wont hurt Valve body upgrade Keep the trans cool when towing Forget the red head, go with PSC and stabilizer upgrade All new ball joints New steering linkage Wheel bearings after you do all this
I've got some pretty massive blowby. I think it stemmed from an injector issue. I'm at 370k miles and debating tossing a remanufactured engine in from a reliable company. They want ~$15k out the door. I can't replace the truck for that so it doesn't sound like a terrible idea but I'm worried about the trans/turbo/etc. etc. after 370k miles. Any thoughts on if its worth it to toss a new engine in it at such high mileage?
Great video I have a 07 5.9 Laramie with a G56 and have corrected the same issues. I really like your stereo head unit, could you tell me what it is and what adapter you used to mount it?
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One more common issue I've found and heard of on these trucks is the rear door wiring. If you have window/speaker/or lock issues with your rear door it could be the cabling in the boot when you open the rear door. This is a common issue since the doors open wide and the cables are constantly being bent back and forth.
I’ve had to repair mine multiple times in the doors open your locks won’t unlock or lock
I can attest to that
Thanks. My rear driver door electronics don't work at all and the pass side randomly locks.
I had to replace mine with super flexible higher gauge speaker cable.
You are correct… Since those doors open at 90° they can stretch out the wires. I’ve already fixed the harnesses by adding 7 to 8 cm to each wire. I also added a little silicone grease inside so they slide through inside the boot. Took a little bit of time… Actually just about 5 to 6 hours one day. Never look back. Everything works just like it came off the show room.
My 06 has lasted 300k miles bone stock with basic maintenance. Have only just started having trans issues on the auto. It’s a great truck and I love the thing.
Just found your channel. I have a 2006 2500 Mega Cab. My dad was the original owner. When he passed away in 2019 I took ownership. 140k miles. Love this truck.
05 all stock but run better Baldwin fuel filter in it. 123k and no issues.
Rebuild the front end at a 100k and upgrade steering. Well worth it long term.
Change batteries every 4 years and clean ALL grounds on engine and other points including cables after 10 years. Make sure the yellow wire under the fusebox for the starter is clean with good connection.
Keeping mine forever.
How's your 05 doing? I'm about to go look at an 05 today. Anything I should be made aware of?
@@martysworld6052 Yes, quite a bit but I recommend searching 3rd generation ram cummins issues and there are videos to help.
"Rebuild the front end at a 100k and upgrade steering" AND rebuild with rebuildable ball joints by EMF, among others.
@@bribbripnairbnab7301 I did ball joints, wheel bearings, and all U-joints as well as new discs, front driveshaft, brakes and a few other steering related items. Got 134K on it and I do a couple items preventative or upgrade each year. Also, do the belt tensioner and water pump every 75K.
Going to do lithium batteries and new cables over the Winter if the reviews are worthwhile...
Some of those ultra expensive ball joints just aren't worth it. Wheel bearings and brakes need replaced every 100k plus or so which takes me about 6-7 years or more on the garage queen that doesn't pull anything except my remote camp setup in the topper and my fat butt....I'll die of old age before I get break even on some of those items where a decent wear items work fine..maybe if I was younger......
The sad fact is that I’ve had issues with all thing that you mentioned except the injectors! Thankful the last owner of my truck was smart enough to replace them and put on a fass! And the blend doors was super easy! Just time consuming and definitely requires two sets of hands with the dash
dash is easy to get out. the blend doors i got were absolute junk. dont forget the recirc door tower was updated and the truck will never really cool without the later model one. 06 is by far the worst year to own.
Was chasing a start/stall and stalling while driving issue for months until i saw this video. Replaced the batteries and both issues resolved immediately. Thanks a lot!
These are all very true! I do have 280k on injectors and CP3 no fass or airdog just take really good care of fuel and run standayne, knock on wood! But my tipm, trans front and I have had to replace and the bettry part is 100% true! Run interstate great video! Most of this you can fix your self! Love my 5.9 CR I’ll keep in running!
#4 injector line seems a common failure point. It happened to me. Replacement #4 injector line is an upgraded design.
This was a very informative video. I did have issues with the blend doors and i did the entire repair (HVAC, blend doors and a/c) myself. It took roughly a month to do the whole system, but it was well worth it. I did use blend door USA and they really are the greatest blend doors you can put in the truck. Everything is machined aluminum even the gearing and there are a couple of videos on how to do that. Whether you have a a double cab or a megacab cab truck.
I also did the big three upgrade on both batteries. I made all the cables myself. I wish I could show you pictures of what I did but it did solve many electrical problems. All the ground wires were changed to 1/0 except for the ground wire leading from the passenger battery to the alternator which I made a 2/0 gauge wire. I also made a 2/0 gauge ground wire from the engine block to both batteries. All the ground wires that were currently connected to the batteries I pulled out and made 1/0 gauge ground wires. The crossover cable is a 4/0 gauge because it has to keep a consistent charge going over to the driver side battery along with making sure you have a strong current going to the starter and also to the entire electrical system of the truck. I also use aluminum battery connectors from GP audio which were six block connectors so as if you needed to add anything in the future… Amplifiers, or any other type of electrical made you can bolt right to the battery terminal. I also added a high amp alternator from Mechman to help keep the same charged up and your batteries charged up. One thing nobody talks about is if you’re doing start and stop take driving or making a lot of stops actually stopping the engine you have to keep those batteries charged up. Hi output alternator helps do that pretty efficiently. Upgrading all of your ground wires and power wires is a great start but you will need to eventually get a higher output alternator.
You are definitely correct stating that a lift pump is needed on these trucks. The CP3 and stock fuel filter really are not enough. You need to get some pressure to those injectors and clean water free fuel. I would also suggest after getting a lift on removing the stock pump which I think you have to do anyway.
Once I get the lift pump and get some of the transmission work done I feel that the truck will probably last forever. The third GEN dodge Cummins is awesome truck… It just needs some upgrades to make it a long lasting great truck.
Again this was an awesome video and very informative. Love to shoot you some pics of mine when I’m done in a few months. Cheers keep the videos coming!
All great info in here! The batter cable upgrades are an AWESOME way to prevent future issues. 2nd gens benefit from similar upgrades.
@@JustDiesels I’m looking into buying a 2005 3500 Cummins with manual 6 speed. With 140k miles an old man truck. Would you say it’s a good truck? It has been maintained very well all stock and and old man driver.
@@JustDieselsI mainly want it for towing purposes
These videos are phenomenal. You do an awesome job of communicating issues with recommendations. As someone trying to educate themselves on the trucks as much as I can before I buy one, its much appreciated. Keep up the strong work bud
Replacing the stock starter with a Mean Green gear reduction starter really helped my starting. Engine now starts very quickly and it just seems easier on the engine.
3rd Gen is the best I searched for years until I found a good one.
Great video. This is one of the most high quality channels on TH-cam. The quality is consistently top noch. I personally would like to see videos in this style looking at 2nd gen Cummins and 7.3 Powerstroke(both OBS and SD) trucks
If people dig this I’ll keep it going! I want to make full buyer’s guide videos covering everything, but those are huge projects!
I agree.
I have told people about the injector test for awhile!
I actually first discovered it, for myself, on accident.
Noticed the rpm hop as unusual...but didn't know why... and when I replaced injectors it was smooth as butter.
Since I've figured that was a injector slightly hanging open. And confirmed it with many experts as well as a go to test for early failure
I’ve got an 06, bought it new. 147k miles now. For the last 70k miles have used power service every tank. Truck is bone stock never had a tuner plugged in. I am also meticulous on maintenance, have never missed, and have used 100% Fleetguard products. I feel like my truck runs perfect. Great power, no smoke, starts fast, all exactly the same as when it was brand new, and I should know because I’ve had this truck since it had only 7 miles on it. Also do Blackstone labs tests at every oil change and my fuel in oil comes back at
@michaelxr2460 Yes.
If you have not upgraded the fuel filter system to a CAT style, at the very least a simple inline block between your stock can and cp3. I did that to mine. If you do, make sure to use MARINE Diesel hose ONLY. No black rubber at all.
147k on stock injectors is about the end of its life. It's probably not doing any damage yet if you aren't noticing alot of white smoke. It will always haze a tiny bit.
If you are on a tight budget and can't afford brand new Bosch. I know a personal builder from eBay. Retired bosch tech. Way better quality than any other vendor (cough Inj Dir)
New is obviously best. But GOOD reman injectors by a GOOD builder that flow tests them right with proper equipment is required.
The guy I used I quizzed like crazy and he was always on the ball knew a ton about injectors and told me exactly how another vendor ripped me off
This video is super accurate! Once you get through these issues these trucks are the best hands down!
Great video bro. I just commented on another one of your videos. TIPM was my issue cuz my tail lights won’t work haha. So great to hear you say that. My buddy figured it out but where the fuse goes I had no power to those wires for the tail lights, therefore it’s the TIPM box. I even put my stock lights back on to see if my leds were bad. TIPM was $700 hard pill to swallow for a blinker.
Thank you for the information and concise videos, I wish I had found them sooner. As to point #3, my 06 has been suffering from intermittent and bizarre electrical problems including one low beam going out, one wiper speed, rear tail light going out, odd starting habits and more. I changed out the batteries and soldered in new terminations for the crossover/assorted connections and half of my project list evaporated. I will add that cleaning the TIPM connectors underneath the fuse box should be a annual/semi annual inspection point. Cheers!
A true and precise assement of engine internals is to have an oil analysis report from a lab. The report clearly states what metalurgical components are present in the sample you provide them. I used Amsoil Anaysis service, my cost for the lab in Edmonton Alberta Canada was $45.00 and the report I received indicated zero problems in my '03 Ram. A genuine reliable indicator of whats happeneing inside your 5.9.
Solid video brother! Quality is top tier. Hope you are doing well man! Cheers on the success!
Hi - I am somewhat perplexed with my issue I'm having with my 2005 Dodge Ram 3500, 5.9. Not sure which direction to go at this point. I am the original owner, truck is complete stock with just over 238K miles on it. Last year (2023) in October, I was just cresting a hill at highway speeds around 75 mph. I let off on the throttle and I got the infamous 10 bell dings, and the WTS light that came on. I was within 4 miles of my place so I drove it home and shut it off. The code I got and still have is the P1222 code which from my research, indicated that my injectors were bad. I bought rebuilt injectors from Injectors Direct in California along with new tubes. I installed them within the specs that I had gained from watching many You Tube videos building my confidence. Before the install, the truck seemed to start, run and show no indication of low power or odd smoke issues. Ran perfectly. During the install I also adjusted the valves. When I finished, the truck ran perfectly as before, sounded great but the same P1222 code & WTS light issues were still showing. I dove back into the injectors ensuring I had everything torqued correctly and in place. Even after this second re-install, the same codes were STILL in and the truck starts and runs perfectly, idles smoothly, possibly a minute amount of smoke but thinking this could be from sitting for 12 months. This makes me think the rebuilt injectors are good. I have a Inova 5610 ODB2 reader but it will not allow me to delete the P1222 code. I disconnected the batteries for over a week, disappated the charge on the system but cannot get the code to delete. As a risk, I changed out the PRV, the MAP sensor, the pressure sensor and also the Cascade Overflow valve but to "no avail". Like I said, the truck seems to run perfectly as I start it to move it around my place on occasion during the last year but other than that, it has just set in the yard for this past year. I'm kinda thinking that maybe I need to have a mechanic "flash" the computer to get rid of the code but don't want to spend the money to do so if it's just going to come back in. I tested the Injectors' return flows, which all tested good. The idling fuel pressure is between ~690 and ~790 psi. My OBD reader shows the fuel pressure as over 20000 psi when I increase the throttle pressure. It's too good of a truck to abandon it and I need it for pulling my boat. Any chance you or someone has any suggestions that might help me get this rig back on the road? Thanks in advance.
Tipm was bad on my 06. Had it rebuilt. No more problems. Only one headlight would work and the previous owner gave up and sold it to me cheap. Lol Just like u said. 👍🏻. Took me about two weeks to figure it out. Definitely had me pulling my hair out. 😂
Ahaha always the first place to look for random stuff like that and always a great way to score a cheap truck lol
My 2003 2500 TD Quad Cab is one awesome truck. It's a long bed that came out of Alaska and is tricked out for that area. Standard in all aspects except, it's got an insulated camper, running boards, brush guard, tow hitch, long bed, set up for a snow plow and has a block heater. I bought it in 2010 for a song with only 37,xxx miles on the clock. It now has 128,xxx miles on it and my only issue has been a bad water pump at 50,xxx miles and a left tail light that just loves to blow out about every6 months, regardless of weather. I love this truck!
You put lift kits and big tires , you get to go down that road of front repairs I run stock and 153K miles and no problems but I did change out the Y rod and put the old style on where tie rod goes from wheel to wheel and drag link and have to change pitman arm to make it all work and work it does and neoprene bushing in your track bar .if you have a lack of air flow just pull the blower motor and it is easy to pluck 3 screws and blower motor comes out . Then reach up inside vent and grab that broke door and spin it around and comes right out and everything will work if that’s the only door that is broken and this door is for inside and outside air so if you don’t want outside air roll your windows up and fresh air open a little .
Thanks for giving me hope for solving death wobble. I’m experiencing that right now.
I have a whole video on that topic!
Awesome video! Did the blend door USA doors on my ‘03. Highly recommend!
Very accurate. Original owner of an ‘03 and I’ve dealt with all but the electrical issues. At 300k miles I can’t imagine replacing it though. It’s SO easy to work on. Nice vid. Thanks
Asking for advice. I've got a 2005 Dodge, 5.9 Cummins. A year ago I was motoring at highway speeds, let off on the throttle on a hill and got the multi "bell warning dings" and the Wait to Start (WTS) light came on and stayed on. The truck runs fine though. The code that came in with the WTS light is P1222 which points to injectors. With 235K miles on it, I resigned to just replace all injectors. I did so with rebuilds from what I thought to be a reputable retailer. Once installed, along with new feed tubes and also new lines from the tube to common rail, the truck ran the same, starts fine, no noticeable black or white smoke, no loss of power, etc. But, the P1222 code and WTS light are still on. I retorqued all injectors, tubes and retaining nuts two separate times to just a little tighter than stock foot lbs. I performed 3 main troubleshooting tasks starting with the Relief Valve test which passed just fine. Then I tested the return flow from the CP3 which passed within the recommended return flow. Then, I tested the injector return flow (all injectors in place and uncapped). This test also passed with a recommended return flow of less than 180ml. Mine was right around 85-100ml. I tested this twice to make sure. Still, the WTS and P1222 code stay on and the truck runs just fine. I tried erasing the code with my Inova 5610 OBD reader but it will not remove the P1222 code. I also disconnected the batteries for about 2 weeks to see if it would remove the code to no avail. I've since replaced the Pressure Relief valve, Cascade Overflow Valve, MAP Sensor, Fuel Filter and Pressure Sensor. Mostly just to ensure they were not the issue. Still, the truck starts and runs fine. I am wondering "IF" taking it to someone who can "Flash" the computer to remove the P1222 code will only lead to it coming back in or if it is possibly just stuck in the computer and holding me up from using my truck. I don't drive it with all this going on for fear of burning a hole in my pistons. I'm at a loss for not knowing how to fix this truck at this point. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
This is great! I love your content. Would like to see one of these for 2nd and 1st gens
I can do that!
@@JustDiesels Would absolutely love a 2nd gen video like this
Just did injectors in my 03 at 300k. $1600 but definitely glad they didn't melt the motor down.
New bushings in track bar was my problem and switched out my tie rod and drag to the old style .
You put lift kits and big tires , you get to go down that road of front repairs I run stock and 153K miles and no problems but I did change out the Y rod and put the old style on where tie rod goes from wheel to wheel and drag link and have to change pitman arm to make it all work and work it does and neoprene bushing in your track bar .
Good info, cluster is sensitive too, print is stuck on really tight on the plastic housing, due to cold/warm environment the print bends and connections fail.
just picked up a 3rd gen, 6" lift, 37's, winch, and all kinds of stuff. Pretty good so far. Just had to have the one piece drive shaft rebalanced and new rear u joints. Looking at manual hubs now. Thanks Andrew!
I had issues with my TIPM in my 2006 truck. My headlights didn't work. Had to send my TIPM out to Mak's TIPM Rebuilders in California. They had to replace a couple parts in it, clean the board, and reprogram my TIPM. It was 220 dollars to have done and fixed my lights.
Any regrets with em? I'm on the east coast and need a tipm
@@nickabel8279 no issues! I'm also on the east coast
My 2006 mega cab Cummins has had the tipm issues and the hvac door issue. Look for the video on how to get to the blend door after it breaks and remove it. It’s free and solves the problem. Except you lose the ability to choose between outside air and recirculated air. It will always be outside air once you remove the door.
Now I'm paranoid and want to put new injectors
It’s worth it. I’d personally do it on any third gen over 180k miles. ALWAYS ALWAYS go with NEW oem bosch injectors and NEVER remans!
@@JustDiesels What about if you want bigger injectors? What’s the best way to go about that?
My original factory injectors lasted 300,000 miles bone stock truck bone stock filtration. I put new injectors and CP3 pump in I have 435,000 miles now still going and it’s the original automatic transmission. My opinion is most problems are caused by tuning a diesel if you leave it stock it’ll last you forever and not give you hardly any problems
Only do that if you’re looking for 500hp or more. The stock ones are fully capable of moving plenty of fuel! Unless you plan to do a turbo and larger cp3, it’s easiest to just stick with the stock sizing.
@@Rangerdnger That’s crazy man. Sounds like a very well taken care of truck! My 06 has gone thru 2 engines one at 60k miles (factory recall warranty replaced) and the other at 170k(ran low on oil, trashed the engine). It got a rebuilt engine in 2015. It’s always been stock and the filtration system is giving me issues. I’ve already gone thru 2 sets of injectors since the rebuild and now when I give it too much throttle or when it’s under a heavy load it just bogs out and loses power, But when I’m driving in town it does just fine or at 65-70mph with no load. Overall the truck is just really slow and a rough ride and I’m looking to give it a light build but I want to do it right, maybe 500-800hp, keep in mind, it’s a 12,000lb 1 ton dually with a 6 speed g56. It’s been a welding rig it’s whole life so it’s been used and abused, hauled a 5th wheel many times and it’s always on the highways. It has trouble pulling a 5th wheel at 100 degrees because I live in Texas. I really just want a slightly bigger turbo with bigger injectors, a fass fuel and all the minor upgrades that come in between (cold air intake etc.). I use the truck every day and I want some more power out of it because it gets very old sitting at 65mph on 8 hour drives haha. I do agree though, stock is most of the time better if the truck has been maintained properly it’s whole life and has no issues. I really want to figure out the best setup without going super overboard, and have it perform better in all aspects, power, fuel mileage, keeping down temperatures, and most of all being fun to drive, I plan to keep it forever and use it as my daily for a while until I get something else to drive around town
great video, thanks. bought a 03 with 230k miles on it. i have the maintenance records so can see what's done. original injectors (no symptoms of issues) original trans, all stock. lift pump was pre-emptively replaced earlier this year (OEM design unfortunately). previous owner always used fuel additive and replaced fuel filter frequently. TIPM was recently replaced, however I still get occasional "lamp out" light and flickering 4x4 light. HVAC on passenger side doesn't really work so blend door must be pooched. Also minor water leak from cab lights dripping from sun visor clips after very heavy rain. basically all the common stuff, lol.
I’ll add a couple more; my seat motor came apart. I bought this truck used and it was previously in an accident. I can tell because the inside of the bed shows some different colors from the scratches. Then the transmission pressure control. It is electronic and the motor seized up in a high pressure situation. The end of that story was a fire under the hood. Now I have a temp gauge on the trans and I upgraded the valve body and added a deeper aluminum pan . It’s an 06, 48RE, computer controlled trans. Love the truck though.
If you don’t get much air out of you vents is the blend door for outside air inside air just open passenger door and down under dash is blower motor unplug the Harned take out 3 screws and blower motor comes tight out and reach up inside and spins door so little comes right out put back together and your good to go and takes 15 mins the first time you do it. Hope this helps it did on my 05 had to run blower on low or the ac would freeze you out . If it works it will save you about 1700 bucks the aluminum cnc machined which is a permanent fix and at 315.00 bucks just for the great doors .
Two other problems are the number four fuel line leak and transmission fluid regulator screen plugging. For belts, the dodge chirp is well known if a low quality belt is used, and the tensioner is not replaced at the same time. The one I cannot solve is the bucking from the cruise control going down hill unloaded. Any thoughts here? Finally, the TPIM is a very poor design since even the trailer circuit goes through this unit. My boat trailer shorted out and took the trailer circuit on the TIPM with it. I highly recommend isolating this external circuit with a cheap $ 30 auto reseting trailer module. Dodge engineers should be embarrassed with not including this type of circuit on a $1500 circuit board.
any luck with the downhill bucking ? I am having this happen too!
@fishonnelson2353 No. Still searching th web for ideas. The bucking got slightly better when I swapped the transmission governor solenoid with a GM conversion kit. My guess is the crappy transmission is the source. The swap is good to implement since the dodge solenoid has a very small fluid screen and can easily plug.
You are correct brother. Put 2 injectors in my 06 3500 south bend g56. Bought new and still love it 👍👍💪🏻💪🏻
I have done the TIPM, Front End, Blend Doors, guess I better start thinking about injectors and a trans build!
-Great Video! My blend door actuators need replacement , my Total Integrated control module went out I haven't had interior lights in months till I checked it. And I got a Mopar Big box on the way with some Carli Heavy Duty ball joints to help my front end slop. Very true video! Granted I have 340,000 miles
Before you take the dash out to fix the Blend Door, Check the Control on the dash. we took the dash out only to find that the Blend door was OK and the controller on the dash was bad, ( a 20 Min Fix) Check it first.
Hey man thanks for your videos I love watching them I've been following you for a while and you've got some great content thank you for sharing. I have the same truck you are spot on with all of those things I just got it back from the shop getting transmission and turbo done ouch but I'm glad I did it and I'm doing water pump today and going to be looking at the blend doors here ASAP as that is the issue that I'm still stuck on figuring that all out or if I can do it myself basically. Really appreciate all of your helpful videos and the information is always excellent so thank you keep up the good work man!
Thank you so much this definitely helps. We have a 2006 that’s giving us issues like those mentioned.
Well now I get to add the TIPM to my list. I put new headlights on my truck and added brighter lights. The increased draw caused the tipm to shut off the headlights. I’m wiring in relays to lower amp draw and hoping it will reset so I don’t have to go to a dealer to get it reflashed. There is a hard reset video out there that I will try before going to the dealer for an hour labor charge.
You nailed the problems. The blend doors piss me the most. We have have had the doors fixed twice and still having problems. No heat to the feet. I just wear thick socks I 😂😂
Nice video. I'm looking forward to more. If you haven't done one on sunroofs leaking you might look into it. Pretty common I understand. My 2006 Megadually does it. I'd never buy another with a sunroof but I don't know if the design of the drain system was improved.
You should have added the heatcore one, where part of the bolt comes off and goes into the engine and takes it out.
That’s a 6.7 only problem.
My 03 has the blend door issues. It works when it wants to. By far my worst issue is RUST. My frame rotted right where the cab and bed meet. I ended up welding boxes over these sections
Thank you so much man. You’re info is transforming my truck into a tank
The battery part you spoke of is so true. I went out one morning to my truck & it wouldn’t start. Lights flashing crazy on the dash & the weirdest thing about it all, my key fob that never works cause I have yet to put a battery in the key fob started working, I thought what the fuck & changed the batteries anyway, all is well, only problem I’ve ever had out of my 3rd gen & she’s 203k strong, still running like a champ!
Another awesome video. Thanks much.... These videos are so helpful to me and my 3rd Gen (07)... Thanks again!
Personally 180k miles i had an Injector fail and Nuke a cylinder. Being a machinist just refreshed and made it better but I could understand that being a big downside to someone with not a big budget for mods later down the line. Also you’ll need a trans if you got a 48re so expect 10k for that for a good one
You can get a good trans that will hold 600hp for around 5k
@@Nathang2233 that’s what I thought. Then I ordered one and after shipping and what not ended up being 7900$ and then after install probably 9k or more. Also rebuilt t case so there’s that 10k. If you’re on a budget probably could do it for a bit less.
I agree. I have an 08 power wagon and this generation is a nice modern comfortable ride but still feels like a truck. While not a diesel it is a six speed, so it doesn't have cylinder deactivation. Just straight eight cylinders all the time. I can see myself never getting rid of it.
My death wobble was from a shop leaving roughly 2 gallons of rain water in the tire they mounted...
Took me a month and 3 shops to get it figured out
😂😂 that’s a new one!
@@JustDiesels considering I specifically told them not to mess with the set of tires in the bed and they had had my truck from nov-april after trying to duck me often. Thinks it was done maliciously. That death wobble took out a brand new ball joint too...
That’s a prank I learned decades ago from my grandpa, that was definitely intentional. Easiest way to find it is to park with the valve stem at 6 o’clock, the release air and water will come out.
That FCM drove me nuts, I got 2 spare ones now :)
SUPPOSEDLY you can reset the tipm by holding the trip button on the cluster and turn the key to on position without starting the truck. May clear up small issues (i.e. reverse lights not working)
ya man i agree with you on the automatic transmission that people like to bs, harp on dodge. as a trained Technician from Universal Technical Institute my transmission teacher said that any automatic stock transmission weather its a car or truck any make or module that once it reaches 100,000 miles it will start to have problems. im pretty sure you already know this but i wanted to state it again. on the other hand most manuals are bullet prof. the cast iron cases are way stronger witch i know you know that also.
One thing I might add is I have a 2008 and it eats front u-joints. I have to replace them every 25k-40K miles. And I am pretty religious greasing the front end so I don't know. Great vid!
What joints are you using? That seems really abnormal with something quality like Spicer!
Is the truck lifted? Pinion angle may be off, I had a lifted Jeep that would eat u joints because of that.
Went 250k miles on original u joints. 4” lift, 20” wheels, and 35” tires since truck was new.
The blend door that controls inside outside air just take out three screws and blower motor comes and reach up inside and grab blend door and toss it and if you want fresh air crack a window if you want inside roll window up. So this is a quick fix and may be good for several more years or 1 year before a diffrent door to break.
Top 3 imo
1. Dash
2. Auto Transmission
3. Front end
Other than that it’s bulletproof
Dash isn’t really a problem on 3rd gens. Except maybe 03 and 04 trucks
I use transmission fluid on my truck, it love it! Helps with lubricantion
I recently discovered your channel and I think you are doing a great job! I am considering getting an 06' 5.9 for towing the travel trailer, coming from a 2016 Ford F150. One concern you addressed is the loss of comfort. My question to you is, could you share the market for someone to upgrade the interior? I see in your videos you seem to have an after market GPS screen installed, how about improved seats, etc.. Keep up the good work!
I know it's late but 4g seats bolt right up
Especially 04.5-07 injectors (they run higher stock rail pressure)with stock filtration. Change injectors around 6000hrs regardless of mileage.
Just started watching your videos man I love them keep up the good work
Would really enjoy hearing some clutch info, recently picked myself up a 3rd gen g56 and have spiraled through almost all your videos! Love the content man
I really wanted to put some miles on my new Valair DD quiet ceramic clutch before doing a review, but it’s coming! Now I’ve gotten time to tow, off road etc so I have a good feel for it.
@@JustDiesels Thats actually one of the clutches ive been looking at, currently has a south bend dual disc set up, and while its probably stout, its super noisy and probably overkill for my application.
My 03 injectors were good till about 250k miles still ran good but had to start with starting fluid
I had a problem with my 04.5 and I dug into some forums and seemed like it was a problem,I had a electrical drain and it ended up being the horn pad,I had to completely disconnect the horn pad so I have no horn and can’t get the horn pad anywhere because it also has the airbag integrated into it and with all the airbag recalls it’s hard to get one,will just put in a train horn or something
Buying one off my dad, gotta rebuild suspension and do interior stuff but it’s 220k miles on stock injectors no lift pump so I know I’ll need new ones soon
I had AEV upgrade my truck to their front end and install 40" tires. I guess I can look forward to several transmission upgrades.
Hey when you went over the injectors and trans I wondered if you have tried any of the amsoil solutions. Given i just came from you top 5 tips for cummins oil tips. I am thinking the Amsoil Cetane boost+ Injector clean every other oil change (for injectors) and Amsoil Transmission fluid( trrans/ torque converter life)!
I run fuel additives, but that doesn’t fix mechanical wear in the system from poor filtration or general usage sadly. There’s a common myth that fuel injector cleaners will magically “fix” worn injectors, but it’s just people hoping for a cheap fix to a more complex problem. That said, proper fuel additives to prolong life over long term usage. ATF is not a proper additive though.
@@JustDieselsoops I meant atf for the trans not for the fuel
I'm still trying to figure out what's causing the wandering In the frontend of my 12 Ram 2500 Cummins. I've either replaced or paid to have them replaced except the tie rods and control arms . I was going to replace the tie rods and control arms but the garages I've taken it to basically refuse to replace parts they say are still good.? I replaced the Track Bar with a Carli track bar myself because they wouldn't! It did improve the wandering a little but not completely. I guess I have to keep looking for a shop that Will replace the parts I want without questioning why! The truck is stock height as far as I can tell. It's being used to tow a 5R with a Reese Goosebox we are full-time RVrs. This wandering makes driving more than a couple hundred miles a day very exhausting! I don't want to trade it in because it's a 12 no Def fluid! And it's a southern truck with no rust anywhere!. maybe I have to take it to diesel brothers to get the front end rebuilt? What I did find odd is nobody makes better control arms for a stock height? The factory arms are so weak looking being stamped metal. I don't want to raise it because the Gooseneck is at the perfect height.
The factory arms aren’t your issue! If the track bar is good, check the upper column, steering shaft, steering box, and ball joints for play. I have a whole video showing how! These little guys are a huge help for the upper column: www.cjcoffroad.com/products/emf-dodge-ram-intermediate-shaft-bushing
I'm so glad I swapped my interior to a 2019 Laramie bench seat interior
My 05 is driving me crazy. Popped prv and I replaced both the prv and the fca. It ran great for a few months although I did still have a p1222 code for high injector return. But the truck still ran and drove fine. About a month ago, it started running rough (no white smoke or anything even on start up.) But I have a huge power loss at even the slightest incline, And I can watch rail pressure drop to 2k psi. Both hard acceleration and hills do the same. But I now have 2 fca doing the exact same thing. One being the new one I bought like 5 months ago. I have a fleece in tank proflow lift pump (dual gear pump) so I don't think its the lift pump supply. But I guess we'll see once I get another new fca. Kinda pissed I didn't even put 1k miles on the other one. But the truck has the p0251 code and im at a loss as to what else could be the issue and im hoping its not the ecm.
Sounds to me like your injectors are toast.
@@JustDiesels I've been thinking the same thing. Still in the middle of trying to get that p0251 figured out first and figure out where I'm at
I think around 2005 they went to a different piston and that eliminated most white smoke when an injector is leaking but that means you might not know it is happeniing, unlike with earlier engines that puff the smoke.
@Just Diesels when I bought the truck It had a cheap external pump like a fass clone without the filter box. It had rubber fuel hoses that I had to reuse for the supply side. Turns out that fucken thing walked its way up the fuel tank and got pinched between the frame rail and the tank. Fixed that and it's working fine now. Still have an odd issue with the wts light coming on every now and then on the highway. 8-9 chimes then after a few seconds it shuts off
When I had my 07 5.9 the tipim went out because I put led light in the cab. Before that the alarm would go off when I would back up super annoying
I have a 05 Ram 3500 Cummins diesel all stock the only issue I have is my blower won’t come on but the ac light will and nothing will come out of the vents it works when it wants to
Nice video, brings up some good points especially with the electrical issues, and front end are both often over looked. Was going to do a video myself of top 3 or 5 upgrades on these trucks, and Carli Truck Bar, was going to be one of them. Everyone says CAI and Exhaust but I think you get more bang for your buck with other upgrades.
Yeah a CAI and exhaust really don’t do much on these at all. Just a fun sound upgrade.
Got an 03 Cummins with a 6 speed with apparently an injector going bad because the rpm hangs when you let off the throttle like you said in the test. So at this point it's just time for a set of injectors right? Is great video by the way
So was it bad injectors? If so, what injectors did you purchase? Thanks
i just bought a 2006 cummins about 3 months ago with 250,000 miles never been tuned or anything along those lines and still with the stock exhaust and trans is fine, the owner said he did regular flushes on it and it’s never had an issue
That’s exactly the kinda truck you want!
And you will need to change out everything ac evaporator and heater coil and your motors the move the blend doors and I think their 3 of them do that and your done and the new blend doors are cnc machined aluminum so it’s a one and done .
One common thing I found was the APPS(Accelerator Pedal Position sensor) had 3 cummins all needed to be replaced.
Yeah that seems to be more common on 03-05 trucks for some reason.
@@JustDiesels yupp one 03 one 04 and an 06 at one point
I have that code pop up, when I have the cruze set and use the peddle to pass someone
How about a down motor? How often can one expect to see a down cylinder in the 5.9?
I've had to do all of these except my trans on my 06 with 206k. A good alternative for a Fass is a trc 10 which simply adds an extra fuel filter and water separator for less than half the cost.
Can you provide more details.
Curious on your thoughts. I currently own a 6.0 that’s been a good truck. Not a fan of the lift in it and reverting to stock or dropping to dropping to lower lift just isn’t possible with cost or finding parts. So kind of looking for either another 6.0 or a 5.9 3rd gen with a standard trans. I’m fairly familiar with the 6.0 and also been around the block with the N14 Cummins before. Which way you think would be better? 5.9 or 6.0 that’s had the issues addressed (studs, coolant filters, etc)? Mostly to tow boat/camper
Even on the 1500 if you have headlight issues it’s probably the tipm I had to replace mine just to have headlights
I needed to get running without buying a tipm so I signaled a relay with the working headlight to power the non working headlight. Rear light I wired into the trailer plug...
Does the tipm issue relate to the dash not working ie no guage function? Self check of the dash passes
Great video bro you've covered some major topics that I ran into with my truck
Question have you ran into any issues with the ABS if so what did you figure out or notice
Love watching you videos on your 3rd gen trucks. I have two 2004 that I purchased new but they're the 1500 5.7L hemi which I've maintained very well and look beautiful. Your videos inspire me to keep and enjoy my trucks for many years more. Your truck and my trucks have many things in common so your videos are very helpful to me. One of my trucks has that reving symptom that you mentioned. I'll have to check into those injectors.
Thanks for your great videos. Keep them 3rd gen videos coming.
Yay a new video!!! Enjoyed it fully
Thank you for the support!
Great information
Thank you very much.
Cheers:):):)
I had filtration on my 05 a Baldwin water separator with drain that’s was a 5 micron and a Cat 2 micron and in the stock location 5 micron ?
What’s a good mileage range to look for when buying a 3rd gen? I’m looking for a older new to me daily/tow rig for my company vehicle.
I got a 07 5.9 mega cab and I have one issue. It’s weird, when I drive on asphalt it’s smooth as butter. But when I get on concrete it’s sooooo bumpy I can hardly stand it. There are a few long highways where I live that are almost like concrete slabs I-25 and highway 14 in Colorado. Fort Collins area. I have 33x12.50R17 BFG KM3 tires. Best tires I’ve ever had. I don’t believe it’s the tires. But I can’t pinpoint it at all. When I have a load on the back, the heavier the smother but when I’m empty it’s a mess.
It’s probably the wheelbase. Your length is same as joints in concrete paving. Only solution is shorter or longer truck
Stock trucks
Fuel filter changes
Fuel additives(generous amounts wont hurt
Valve body upgrade
Keep the trans cool when towing
Forget the red head, go with PSC and stabilizer upgrade
All new ball joints
New steering linkage
Wheel bearings after you do all this
I've got some pretty massive blowby. I think it stemmed from an injector issue. I'm at 370k miles and debating tossing a remanufactured engine in from a reliable company. They want ~$15k out the door. I can't replace the truck for that so it doesn't sound like a terrible idea but I'm worried about the trans/turbo/etc. etc. after 370k miles. Any thoughts on if its worth it to toss a new engine in it at such high mileage?
I got a blue smoke problem but it goes away when you reboot it, it’s also sounds like the exhaust brake when it smoked
Great video I have a 07 5.9 Laramie with a G56 and have corrected the same issues. I really like your stereo head unit, could you tell me what it is and what adapter you used to mount it?