Wiring the DUET Wi-Fi to the Ender 3
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ส.ค. 2018
- This is Part 2 of the series where we upgrade an Ender 3 to be competitive with the Prusa I3 Mk.3 for less money than you would spend on a Mk.3. This video is all about the wiring - where to connect things and how to do it.
To get the printable .stl files shown in the video and also a working build of the firmware: bit.ly/2uyR9vl
Cost accounting so far:
Ender 3 $235 (with shipping)
Duet Wi-Fi $170 (with shipping from Filastruder)
Filament Sensor $25
BLTouch $38 (from Matter Hackers, shipping?)
Noctua Fans $31
Jumper Wires $6
Buck Conferters $6
TOTAL $511
Full Disclosure: I was given all the products in this video by the respective manufacturers for the purpose of making review or instructional videos. The exception is the Noctua fans which I purchased on Ebay. I do not accept payment from the manufacturers, and I do my best to present unbiased information to you, my viewers. i.e. Just because it was given to me doesn't mean I'm going to say good things about it. If it's crap, I will tell you. Unfortunately, these videos do not generate enough income to purchase the products I review. Therefore, I have to ask the respective companies to give them to me, and if a company is not willing to provide the unit I do not make a review.
![ถ้าเธอไม่รักทำไมไม่บอกฉัน - PAPER [ Musicvideo ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/pfeBhDda7m4/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Live สด] การออกรางวัลสลากกินแบ่งรัฐบาล งวดวันที่ 2 พฤษภาคม 2567](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GO21E3C-kXE/mqdefault.jpg)
Regarding your topic of making a better open source printer compared to Prusa: What I think you could / should do to be whole: do not use a Creality product first hand. They didn't start to be an open source company, used all open source illegally closed, created nevertheless all the hype with sending free products, let the smart and eager foreigners communicate, help and review ( until they more and more feel it sucks ) and made the first millions. Only after the community pressured they started to release ( but what? A new enhanced Marlin version, any new contribution / zero, nada, niente guys ). But actually their service and the service through the distributors is none and you still end going back to the community. So why not make an own ' Ender Clone ' if you like the basic setup or an entire own designed machine with the same or better setup for the same money. If you just need the mechanical parts, u will end up even cheaper then buying first hand an Ender $235 and then stripping of the garbage. No misunderstandings here: I dig your style and controversity. I understand the budget calcs of all the folks still buying open source clones ( who is producing a Ramps board in a first world country anymore ?). This debate will never come to a conclusion. Hic Rhodos hic salta. Be free, enjoy, don't hesitate & share. Being thankful for your great videos, greetings from Herri, a German designer in China.
Thanks Herri for the great comment. You definitely see the truth of current affairs! I do want to respond to one of your points: I don't have the ability to make precise metal brackets like you find on the Ender 3. This means that I would rely on 3D printed parts to hold the frame together - not good. This is the reason I started with the Ender 3 instead of building a printer from scratch.
I understand. Hint: you don't need to use metal brackets, although the method I will tell you applies for metal too. Here it is: get Bakelite Red or Black. I like Red. Buy good quality, they are asbestos free. 2, 3 or 4mm. Depending on your application you can glue sandwitch ( composite style ) them / with this tech u can work very precise and create for ever stable parts. First you make your design, take a model saw and saw out & drill the parts, a little sanding, glueing, done. You can do so in metal with brass ( soft solder or hard solder ( even smarter designs are possible ). It doesn't smear during sawing compared to aluminium and has a great look. The aluminium extrusions: You can get them pre-cut to length and if you really want: make your self a rig and file them down manually to any precision level you need ( believe me: Creality is not CNC machining them to precision level ). I am sure that you can achieve that. By the way: Have a look for the mix of manual and machining at YTuber Myfordboy :-). A true maker, old as me. PS: I totally understand your way of doing, nothing wrong with it :-)
Awesome idea to use bakelite! I thought that stuff went out of fashion ages ago. But I can already imagine the benefits of using a strong plastic that doesn't melt at the slightest touch with a belt sander. Will be a nice change to the plastics I'm usually working with :D
True, true. It is cheaper then metal, easier to machine / handwork, also very precise in CNC machining of course. Non conductive, thermally great, a composite per se and a surface mirror finish. Traditionally using paper or cotton layers with resin glue between. Here in China we also have tea boards for tea ceremony made out of high quality Bakelite instead of using rain forest woods. So many cool designs possible. I use it for a long time... BTW: don't use fiber glass, rubbish compared. Just look out for good quality Bakelite. Think of how you can sandwitch a print bed with integrated silicon heater, SSR and on top a nice piece of glass or mirror. Impeccable.
Y'all probably should get Scott / @thinkyhead to stop being such a complete piece of shit to women on twitter, because its really making me lose any sympathy toward Marlin / creality being slow on the GPL uptake. His tantrum last week about this w/ Naomi was wild, and only served to hurt your project.
Just a tip, when you do a part 2, call it part 2. Otherwise TH-cam won't play it as the next video and I'll have to go to your channel and search for it and I will leave comments.
Looking forward to your next installment. Videos are clear and to the point.Good work...
In most cases You can even regulate 12V fan on 24V board. Just connect DC Step Down converter Vin+ and Vin- somewhere on board where you have 24V whole time but it's fuse protected and then connect fan's red wire to the converters Vout+ and black cable to the board fan negative output pin. You have on board fan - pin mosfet which control this fan and It's able to handle up to 24V so It's safe.
If you have got your duet board and looking at the schematics on the duet site and thinking WTF did I get myself into, than watch this video. It is actually used as a reference on the duet forum. If Duet is not paying him, they should be because I probably would have sent the board back if I had to figure out the wiring just based on the duet website. Using both this video and the website made it doable (if your fans are not working you may have to flip the wires, just fyi). The duet site has an amazing amount of information and the forum is good, but seeing it done and being able to follow along was priceless. This and the video on how to set up the firmware was awesome, and if you search around, it is the best edited and most complete video for the ender 3 duet update on youtube. You will have to use the duet site as well (the forum helped me figure out why I couldn't connect to my husbands hidden network). I would have never gotten my printer working again without this video series and the duet forums. Was this board (or any board upgrade) worth it? To be honest, I don't know? I am one print in and can say it is kind of like childbirth. It is to soon after to say I would do it again, but I love the outcome :).
Carrie. I chuckled reading your comment, especially about childbirth. So forgetful women have large families.....
Still giggling but wanted to say I really like to see so many women printers expanding the creativity of what a printer can do...kudos!
your stance on open source is correct and you got a new follower.
I use the same crimp tool for making the connectors as I do to crimp the to put them metal wire sleeves on works great
Sweet!!!! You uploaded!
Marlin 2.0 supports several 32-bit boards (and AVR too). Although Marlin 2.0 is still in beta, I’d love to see a comparison with Repetier Firmware and see how well it holds up at this stage in its development.
Very informative video. Thanks. I have a ender 5 and was wondering if this would work for that?
Very good
I wait your next moovie very excited about this . I looking for upgrade my cr10s with the duet and i follow your Steps
Thanks a lot
When I was thinking about people friendly open source business concepts, I came with this:
1. Release of the product, manufactured by myself with good quality, people mod hack etc. for a year
2. After 1 year passes, and design is polished, product is still sold by myself but also released for free legal copying by all chinese manufacturers, and so poor people can go for cheaper low quality, and people with some money can get original quality product for more.
Nice projekt
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
As an addition to this for clarity, as a design exercise for my engineering students, I have already installed a Duet on an ender-3 along with a Titan Aero, you can place the duet in the same location as the original control board and reuse the case, you just need to flatten the right hand side of the original case, then remove the original steel nuts that are spot welded to the case, then drill x4 holes and mount the duet on nylon stand offs. I have pictures if required.
I would be interested in the pictures :)
like always awsome Video!!! please can you share a link to the 24 to 12 Volt Power adpter you have used.
looking forward to see this printer working.
thanks for this video man !!
I've finally bit the bullet... My genuine Duet Maestro board is on its was and I'm going to begin my sojourn with RRF. I can't wait.
Fantastic improvements. It would be great to hear what you think about our Astroboxtouch cloud controller as an upgrade to the Ender 3 :)
Love your videos. As a big 3d printer hobbyist who cannot afford a Prusa but would love one they are just ridiculously expensive. I started with an Anet A8 kit 3 years ago and for a strat was great if you love to tweak. Now own Ender3,Tronxy X3,Flsun Kossell mini, Sparkmake resin and Solidoodle. I must say the kkts are the best and would put them against much more expensive units any day. Tried about every hot end, board and extruder, just upgraded my ender to duet maestro and love it. Plan to update boards on all my others with duet as soon as I can afford to. Not sure if you have looked at Prometheus hot ends and their multifilament system but they are great. I have tried the E3d hot ends and they were great but replaced all of my hot ends with Prometheus now. Personally I have no issue with the clones if you are short on money or in my case willing to tweak and test using a clone till you can afford an original. Everything in the 3d printing world right now is hobbyist in my opinion and if are willing to really dig into it then is a great hobby. Myself not ok one of the units I have but the resin printer is not upgraded in some fashion. If you are not willing to or savy enough to play around then a factory unit like Prusa is the way to go. Why spend all that money when you can do all and more with a clone as your base and lean so much in the process.
Yes, I had to crimp all the wires and it was a pain, but at least I had a decent crimp tool and, just takes time and patience.
Looking forward to seeing how this all turns out. The only thing holding me back from grabbing the Ender3 is that trash board that it ships with. Looking forward to seeing this project finished up!
looking to do this, CR10 5s.. will there need to be an upgrade in motors?
I just wonder how are you going to build removable (magnetic?) bed for Ender....
Many hands make light work... Open Source is just that... OPEN FOR EVERYONE (Tinker, adapt, modify, make better... so long the improvements are shared with everyone)
You can't sit in front of both Tevo and Creality 3D printers while espousing the moral high ground of supporting original creators/inventors. Otherwise, you'd have invested in a Stratasys or 3D Systems machines... or at the very least a Prusa at this point.
For me and my money, it's about getting into the 3D printing world at a level that's affordable. While my abilities and knowledge grow, and I need "bigger, better, faster" is when I start looking for more high end machines, boards and components. I think that's nearly everyone's stance when it comes to this "hobby". It's not going to turn into a small business venture for nearly 99% of the people buying these things. It's just for fun. It's OK to buy whatever you can afford.
I‘m glad that at least someone is as bad at crimping as I am 😂 Jokes aside, thank you for the video, it was very informative! I don‘t have an Ender and I‘m not planning to upgrade my printer to a duet board anytime soon, but it was interesting to have a look at the possibilities!
I found the firmware video. Thanks!
Hello,
How many milliamperes did you setup for the stepper motors ? Mine are rated 1,7 amps at 400 steps i have put 950 milliamperes and they stall....
I have ordered an Ender 3 Pro and your suggested fans and a Duet Maestro from M3D. I'm getting the PC wheels (just the tires) from Amazon. I'll probably use a Precision Piezo bed leveler and we'll see about the Duet filament sensor. I'll print a mechanical filament out sensor for now. I also want a BondTech extruder (eventually direct). I have a Prometheus hot end laying around I may adapt if I can. But it uses non-standard nozzles and it's meant for two filament Y adapters.
The guilt tripping aside, this video was pretty helpful. I dont feel bad about buying a clone since the clones are the only thing sold by Amazon with Prime delivery I had it the same day. I probibly would have been more open to buying an original if they sold it on Amazon Prime aswell... Besides, how much have the original developers benefited from the open source aspect and getting free help developing the board, it goes both ways.
Built a box for the back of my Ender 3 Pro to house this and 3 LM2596's and swapped all my fans to Noctua and brushless blower for the part fan, the printer is whisper quiet now and I am loving it. The loudest part is the PSU fan by far and I am going to track down a quiet fan for that next.
Can you run diet on a prusa? Would you want to?
Hi I'm going to be installing a duet 2wifi on my cr10s and I'm just wondering the way u hooked up your steppers to the board did it work right doing that way I want to clip the jst plugs the way u did it cuz I'm lazy and dont want to crimp new connectors but I'm just wondering if they worked that way
Yes, clipping the connectors the way I showed will also work on a CR-10. That is the technique I used when I built this CR-10s: th-cam.com/video/mw5TXlSzQYI/w-d-xo.html also, here is the video about the Ender3 Evolution: th-cam.com/video/SOZe_fg9DN8/w-d-xo.html The dual-gear direct-drive, filament runout switch and BLTouch sensor on a CR-10. Is an unbeatable combination.
Thanks
I'm really tempted to upgrade the ender board with something else so I can use TMC drivers. It feels weird to spend as much for a new board as what the printer has cost me, but getting a RAMPS + separate drivers isn't that much cheaper and without the convenience of everything in a single board. You're costing and saving me money haha
That board is interesting, I see it takes four open source Dev boards and puts them into one. Oh and two buck boosts on there for voltage regulation.
It's got a esp32, so you should be able to install a camera on the printer to run HD video or stills, and use the other open source webcam, so you can keep an eye on the work, without being there.
I'm still trying to work out the touch.
It's a press switch? Or radial/slide resistor that takes a measure?
The Arduino can do this for you, if you pass voltage through the website or a resistor and get it to register the difference, you can then calculate the distance from or two the board based on the boards location and head heights which is ref from the ax home.
But when you think of things, say for example the enderextender...
All they have done is cut and copy drilled the holes of vrails.
So that's about £20 for the rails.
I believe there is some cables included so £1 a meter should cover those.. (each) and there is the plate or bed, not sure how much, but about £20 would cover it..
About £60.00 we will say.
But it's about £140.
So here is my take..
If you're having fun, then say thanks, if you're making money, make a donation.
OS is a 'help others' and 'make it better' and share. It's not for spin off profiting or segregation to free and paid... But if you take free to make money then ethically it's wrong.
I've always promoted OS in many lines, and I have contributed to many well known projects and things I headed up were and have been sold for millions. But as long as I can say and show it was me and I made not money from them like others have, then the lesson is learnt.
What's the lesson?
can you give links to everything in your video, in the description, please.
About the buck converter to drop 24v into 12v. Isn't the parts cooling fan controlled by PWM? How are you going to wire the buck to drop 24v to 12v before the PWM control?
no no no no no!!! The main board automatically takes 12v /or/ drops existing 24v down on it's own to 12v - the board does not run nativly at 24v! It has a built in buc at the ACC input from the DC power supply. Do you think those fans run at 24v? HELL NO, the Duet is already doing all the work converting the power. You can put 12v OR 24v into this board and it converts it automatically IF it needs to.
Can you please share the firmware profile for the duet 2 wifi? I just installed the Duet 2 wifi on my Ender 3 and want to compare.
I really appreciate your in depth explanation for the open source boards and hardware/firmware.
I completely agree with everything you've said, except for one thing, ish. I certainly agree, but not 100%
I've used open source products for the last 6 years. Mainly Blender. I've made my entire career around it. It's given me a well paying job, and a lot of respect for open source products. Like the Duet3D, blender is open source and can be copied and sold very easily.
But where I run into an issue with your explanation, is your view on buying 3rd party copies as "stealing" from the creators. I agree, that if you can, definitely buy from the original creator. That's what I will be doing.
But, whether they released the product under open-source for community purposes, or because they had to, depending on what the product is based on, the product was still released under open source.
By every stretch of the license, copying and the purchase of these copies, are in no way "stealing"
Yes, morally, it doesn't feel right. But there are people out there who are searching for a passion, and have found 3D printing as an option. Budget printers like the ender 3, are a great tool for these people.
But if they want to improve upon it by upgrading hardware and firmware, in no way should you be shaming them for buying copies. I agree with what you're saying here, but I think if someone simply can't afford the original creators product, they can rightfully purchase a 3rd party copy, and they deserve not to be shamed for doing so.
Shaming them, and calling them thieves, in and of itself discourages community support. This person will feel bad, and will decide not to buy a board at all. They won't share their experiences, they won't share their process. Because they can't afford the original product, and they are shamed for thinking of buying a 3rd party copy.
With that being said, I can and therefore will buy the original Duet3D board. As I want the quality, and to support the creators.
That's my 10 cents, my two cents is free, a nuisance, who sent? You sent for me?!
I covered a lot of this issue in the dedicated video I made about the subject: th-cam.com/video/iKhn5IcVvAg/w-d-xo.html
People should feel ashamed for buying clones. We are in this hobby because we love new and developing tech. By purchasing copycats/clones we are actively hurting the advancement of the tech because the Chinese clone/copycat companies do no R&D to develop new tech they just copy once a product has been proven successful.
Hi I am upgrading my Ender 3 Pro from the stock board to the Duet 2 Maestro, do I need to replace my fans as well? The wiring diagram shows 5v, but here you are using Buck converters to step down the voltage. So I may be a little confused.
On the Maestro if you run all of your fans on 5v, you can simply switch the jumper from input voltage (24v) to being 5v instead. This jumper is located next to the first "always on" fan plug on the board. Consult the "Maestro Pinout" for more information.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Like you said the Duet Community Board is awesome. No lack of help.
Here is the response I got in about 40 Mins.:
duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Connecting_and_configuring_fans
If you have a 24v PSU and 24v fans, then yes, you can use them without any issue, you'd simply need to place the jumper onto the V_FAN and VIN pins which will bridge the VIN voltage of 24v to the fan circuit.
I think this video helped me make the right choice.
Remember the PC clone wars in the 80's.
Different hardware I know, but if the IBM PC clones didn't happen then we would probably all be Apple.
If it weren't for cheap 3d printers clones now then I probably wouldn't have a 3D printer at all.
No way I'm buying a 3d printer that cost 3-4 times as much as an Ender 3 to get almost the same quality.
With content creators out like you to help everyone make these 3d printer clones better then that is awesome. Thank you!
Any thoughts on using the Duet 3D Maestro? On paper looks like a solid upgrade to 32 bits for a bit less cash.
I've reached out to Duet and asked for one to review. Look for that in a future video.
@@DesignPrototypeTest awesome. thanks for following up. Still waiting on my Ender 3.
What are the proper connector types which would latch into the stepper drive connections?
Just look for "Stepper motor cable" on ebay.
I was hoping to get information on the wiring but when the video starts you are already halfway through showing us a heap of cablesalad.
Also running a linear voltage regulator (buck converter) without a load can easily destroy the piece. Turn the potentiometer down, attach a load, i.e. a fan,
and _then_ turn the voltage up to where you want it.
Great videos. Thank you. Where did you find those pliers/wire cutters? Those are awesome.
www.walmart.com/ip/Sheffield-Sh-14-In-1-Flip-Head-Multi-Tool/377492209
Will this work with Comgrow's Ender 3 Pro + Duet 2 Wifi board? Want to know before paying the 5$
Yes, this will work with the Creality Ender 3 which it appears you bought from Comgrow. Also, The latest version of the Duet 2 is the latest revision of the Duet Wifi, and that is the exact board I used to make the printer you see in the video.
You should have mentioned how the Gameboy LCD requires less memory to operate than the Marlin firmware drivers. LOL Also the resolution is better.
Does the DUET Wi-Fi board fit inside the Ender's 3 motherboard case like the DUET Maestro?
Yes. The two boards have the same footprint.
If anything I’d use a little dielectric grease but if your crimps are solid that’s all that really matters, thanks for the information!
How many kiloamps does this thing take anyway???? Dielectric grease .... seriously ? For 10A max.
Gazza-usa yeah seriously it helps promote conductivity and helps hold it in place, doesn't take much. Better to be safe than sorry
where did you buy this amazing dual plier/cutter tool that you are using ?
www.walmart.com/ip/Sheffield-Sh-14-In-1-Flip-Head-Multi-Tool/377492209
Do I need to use 24v to 12v converter? My power supply is 220V and the original Ender 3 has 24v board.
The Duet board can run off either 24v or 12v. 24v is recommended.
Google: voltage BUCK. its a cheap converter that can DOWN-CONVERT any DC power if your worried and its 90% efficient. If this is too advanced for you then maybe changing an entire 3D printer main board isint something you should be doing right now.
Next installment please😁
The reason they say don tin leads is not because the solder softens it's due to it no longer squashing under the grub screw so it gets a small contact point causing a hot spot causing needless fire risk.
Hi all I have a question about this upgrade , Can this upgrade be done on a ender 3 pro
Even better: th-cam.com/video/SOZe_fg9DN8/w-d-xo.html
It'ss mangled because you did the crimp backwards, I've always done it the other way around, the folded part goes on the wire housing and the curred part goes on the exposed wire.
out of interest what does this do to the screen and rotary controller on the ender 3/ 3 pro?
I don't use it. I just threw it in my spare parts bin. It is not identical to a Reprap discount Full Graphics display (RRDFGD) so I'm not sure if it can be used in this manner, but the company that helped Duet develop the Maestro also made that board compatible with the RRDFGD. Personally I find it easy to just use my cellphone as a mobile screen/controller. I showed this at work in video 4 of this series: th-cam.com/play/PLtVk4dZInT82ODfOw-znw2MdunMAY_rp_.html
What do I need to keep my ender 3 screen working with the duet2wifi board?
Here is the link to the series of videos I made about this subject: th-cam.com/play/PLtVk4dZInT80SCVB_Pgrn1zZThO3nmV7B.html You will find your answer in the final video. tl;dw You need to use a Duet Maestro. Theoretically it is possible to do with a Duet WiFi, but it is an involved process that nobody has yet done on the internet. It's just not worth it. Something I don't talk about in the video, but is good to know: The screen is 'glitchy' in it's behavior. I don't recommend using it. The best solution is to buy a $75 Galaxy Tab A Tablet and use the WiFi to control your printer through the tablet which sits right beside the printer. You can also use your phone.
Side note. Do not use step down converter for the part cooling. The capacitor on the input will smooth the pwm signal and until it drops below 50%, the output of the dc step down will benkept at 12V.
What is the alternative? A resistor, converting the excess voltage into heat?
I don't think the capacitor will be a problem, but the switching regulator will be pretty pissed about the fluctuating voltage input and it might blow from that. The alternative i will write as an answer down below:
Karsten Kruse The alternative is quite simple. The outputs on the board is all using N-channel MOSFET's. This means that when the board turns on a heater, fan, whatever it switches the ground wire. The positive wire is always connected. If you are having a 24V-based printer and a 12V fan, all you need to do is feed the 24V directly from the power supply, into the DC-DC-stepdown, and the positive wire from the stepdown goes to the fan, and the negative wire from the fan goes to the board. This way the fan will be supplied by 12V and the "switch to ground" will still do it's job. The MOSFET doesn't care if it's switching a 24V, 12V, 5V or 3V load to GND.
@@zaprodk Thanks, guess i should be able to verify that with my scope somehow.
How does the duet compare to the SKR 1.(new)?
There is a lot more to the 32 bit discussion than raw horsepower. Duet is a hardware and software package. Both have been designed together to work perfectly in sync. I talked about some of the issues in this video: th-cam.com/video/bFQjFvxiIkg/w-d-xo.html
I am enjoying the concept of this video series. Quick question though, Why is the BL Touch not included in your price list?
Good Catch. It has been added. Thank you. I plan on doing a final price breakdown on the last video.
just to clarify you should not use a buck converter on the parts cooling fan (just the inside fan and the hot end fan since they are binary. on 100% or off 0%) the parts cooling fan is "variable" and you will lose that variable capacity through the buck converter.
I must ask about these Zprobes wiring. There's a printer that uses 2 x Z probes on stock MKS 32bit board for their auto leveling double axis bed. So BLTouch is not supported in this case cause there's no free port for extra Z probe. With Duet, how many Z probes can I connect? 3 is possible?
3 is possible, yes, BUT...The BLTouch has 5 wires. 2 wires are for the probe signal and the other 3 wires are to control the "servo" that activates the pin to be deployed. You can easily control 3 servos with the Duet Wifi. You will repurpose heater pins 3, 4, and 5 in the expansion header. Then send 5V+ and GND to the servos, and they will be individually controllable. Easy. The problem is with the probe signal. Currently reprap firmware is set up to handle the Z-probe signal from the BLTouch through the Z-probe header on the board, and it works perfectly. While you could repurpose some I/O pins for the other two sensors, this is not already a task which is programmed into Reprap firmware, so the firmware will be the difficult part of setting up 3 bed probes. My question to you is why do you need 3? Why can't you just move the single BLTouch probe into position over each of your axis points and adjust that stepper accordingly? BTW, I assume you are making something like this: th-cam.com/video/a9irK9rOUHY/w-d-xo.html
@@DesignPrototypeTest Yes, kinda. Simpler version of it, just 2 motors. th-cam.com/video/GDGWcwDOVtA/w-d-xo.html
Turned out with Duet I dont even have to wire anything for such setups, even for 4 motors. duet3d.dozuki.com/Wiki/Bed_levelling_using_multiple_independent_Z_motors
So basically all I need is to configure it right, last time I've managed codes in early Android builds 10 years ago being a student, this will be fun figuring out what these codes are after initial configuration. Wish someone come up with more intuitive configuration interfaces some day, I can follow comprehensive guides, but this is too prohibitive for vast majority of people yet.
There is no bed sensor on this printer that I can see. I suspect that they are using the stall detection feature on Trinamic stepper motor drivers to figure out when each side of the bed has reached it's upper limit. This is not a good technique as stall detection has an accuracy +/-.1mm Which is huge when trying to get things to stick to your bed. Therefore, after this stall detection rough leveling is performed, it should be followed up with a fine tuning done by using a bed probe such as the BLTouch which is moved to each side as it is finely leveled. So far as I am aware, there is no firmware which includes this functionality.
P.S. I wish Creative 3D would send me a printer. I would love to review that CoreXY machine. It looks really nice!
@@DesignPrototypeTest Duet rely or stall detection for 2+ x Z Axis and then can proceed with BLTouch. But it does not look like the use stalldetection, because by default printer comes with A4988 drivers and Marlin 2.0 on MKS Robin Nano board. They definitely use some type of sensor. I hope they send some of these machines to the US reviewers, they just started to ship them.
Just interested, could we save more money by switching to a non wifi duet?
The DUET Maestro will give you access to the Reprap firmware, and it has the Trinamic motor drivers, but as far as I'm concerned the single greatest thing about the DUET Wi-FI is the ability to print wirelessly. No more Transfering SD cards, and you can also watch your print through the web interface. You can probably do this with the Maestro, but it will have to be plugged into your router with a CAT5 cable. Also, without the Wi-Fi capability you will need a screen. With Duet Wi-Fi no screen is needed as you can do everything through the web interface on your phone or a tablet when/if you are working at the printer.
I'm so glad to see you go into why it's important to support innovation instead of theft and iteration. Thank you :)
Cloning the duet isn't theft. It's derrivative works. Duet is open source. On Duet's website they actually encourage hardware adaption and design as long as it follows the license. Which only requires recognition silk screened on the device - which i do find on the 3rd party devices. (and not be sold with logos active as if the genuine thing). Support creators for sure, but like others have said we wouldn't have 3d printing of the cost of entry was always a premium play and open source is never a financial instrument, its always an ethical one which doesn't jive necssarily with capitalistic views.
can we see your approach to bltouch bed leveling on a duet wifi, i am actually looking to buy the legit bltouch, in all the videos ive seen none of them have auto bedleveling tutorial on the duet, as i feel that the bed levelling is much more harder on the duet,,, this video series is really good and rare to come by
So you're saying that to simplify the wiring process an average Joe can use jumper wires without need to crimp anything at all? In case I want to replace board on Sapphire S, without modifying original wires, in order to be able to sell it later with stock board and keep Duet for other project.
Yeah, you could do it this way. It's actually a really good idea. I would suggest that you heat shrink the connection so that nothing accidentally comes apart. Afterward all you would need to do is cut the heat shrink, and unplug the connections. Alternately, you can do it the way I showed in this video ( th-cam.com/video/PpLEjwLZwBw/w-d-xo.html ) but it would not be as easily reversible, requiring you to re-splice the original connectors back on the the correct wires.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Great thanks a lot, I abandoned Marlin idea for Sapphire and going with Duet route, you were right.
@@DesignPrototypeTest And I'm looking into using Liquid Tape in these connections in order to make them last forever, otherwise I can cut them if no longer needed.
GO BLUE!!!! Sweet upgrades man, nice video as always
That crimp job though. That hurt to see.
Right? Lol, looks like crinkle fries.
You all need to stop liking this. I keep getting notifications, forgetting how bad it was, going to see it, and reliving the experience.
It looks terrible
Annnnnnnnnnd time to relive it again
I have the expensive version of this tool and my crimps look no better. What's the secret? How-to video please anyone who can do better....
how many bits do you need to run 5 nema17s ?
How many bits do you need to run a touch screen interface, or support a Wi-Fi connection? It's not just about pushing the motors around.
@Design Prototype Test you have a typo in your description: "Buck Conferters $6" needs to be Buck converters. Just saying and helpin ya out
I agree.... Gotta support the creators, and forget the knockoffs. It is counter-intuitive to the open source movement. Open Source is so others can make it better, and improve on it.... Not so others can COPY it and make a buck.
I agree with your stance on open source for the most part, but I do feel like I have to give my own two cents: I am a student and I simply cannot afford to buy from the original creator because it's the right thing to do. I simply buy whatever is both the best and the cheapest. If you think about it it's not as bad as it sounds. Let's say I buy a knockoff E3D V6. It's working just fine and I'm happy with my purchase. Of course I share some of my results with friends, on TH-cam and on Instagram, promoting the E3D V6. I won't be the one telling everyone that it's a knockoff because under the "open source umbrella", there essentially are no knockoffs, since it's the design that carries its name and not the physical product.
Now let's say I got unlucky and the knockoff is shit: You made a good point that you will then be stealing E3D's services when looking for help on their page, but is it really stealing when their website/ forums/ support email address are accessible to everyone? Of course I wouldn't expect to get helped but taking the help myself from older forum posts for example truly isn't stealing.
Ok now look at the Prusa MK3 vs. the Anet A8 vs. the Tronxy X8. They are all basically the same printers, but two of them are cheap and shit (comparatively). People are not buying the MK3 because it's the right thing to do but because they want the MK3. Companies are making knockoff Prusa machines left and right but that's part of the game. Beginners will usually start buying knockoff printers with knockoff parts and once they're hooked they start to value the quality differential to original parts more than the money they would be able to save.
So the main point that I'm trying to make is that the knockoff brands are increasing the amount of customers that are willing to give 3D printing a go due to low prices and are therefore increasing the overall market in the 3D printing space, which the original brands are a part of.
Open Source does not allow you to make copies, the license will tell you your rights. So yeah, you may be buying stolen goods when your buy stuff that isn't properly licensed. And even if you are poor that doesn't give you a entitlement to steal. So yeah, I disagree.
With the E3D V6 it's open for a reason so it wouldn't be stealing. If you watch the video with Tom Sanladerer where he asks about dealing with China they avoid the topic completely because they have contracts with some of the suppliers that are making clones.
When you make comments about open source software or HW please consider the following: Open source means if you use in your design open source components your design will be implicitly open source, of course if you obey the rules. I'm an electronics designer as well and I really appreciate the job they have done with the duet wifi, but they agreed to open source policy, used open source SW for free (e.g. Kicad) for licensed SW products you have to pay many many dollars, please do not forget this. Some companies pays millions for their SW tools! - there is a price to pay if you do not want to be open source! You shall also see the bright side of open source - help in the advancement of products - without open source SW and HW like this the 3D printing community would be still in stone age!
There is one aspect you seem to ignore. Without cheap China clones (and the quality is getting better and better) there is no price competition for the already established printers. Look how many are now starting with 3D printing because Crealitiy is able to put the entry price down to 200$. The Ender3 is not the best but its the best entry into 3D printing and will open up the market for new customers. I can already see that filaments price are going down because the market is bigger now than in 2017.
Why did you buy a china Ender 3 verse non china Prusa? Just a question.
How can I configure the duet to be sensorless homimg?
th-cam.com/video/HxEk7-6RriQ/w-d-xo.html
@@DesignPrototypeTest THANKS!!!
@@DesignPrototypeTest Amazing response time! :) I'll try it as soon as I can. Consider me Subscribed for life :D
These are open source designed boards. Clones are fair game dude.
You don't understand why open source exists. It's not to make free/cheap stuff for you to buy. Don't be selfish and immoral. Before you argue with me watch this video where I fully explain the issue: th-cam.com/video/iKhn5IcVvAg/w-d-xo.html
I know this is crazy old now, but it's still the best wiring to the Duet Wifi I've found.. and BOY, it would have been just SO HELPFUL if you'd shown how to move over every single connector, for newbies like me. I'm mostly frustrated with Creality, for not releasing the diagrams on their newer boards, and there's no user made ones yet that I can find. But it would be so incredibly awesome to get a full on move from one board to the other for every connector. >..
I spent $25 for a ferrule crimp tool and a box of ferrules. You can get the tool for half that -- do that. I don't see a reason to shortchange wiring. As far as crimping the dupont style duent molex crimp connectors, you really don't need the expensive tool. I've crimped hundreds with an small needlenose pliers and my crimps are better than what I get from the actual tool which I do have. I have more control with the pliers and can make the connector perfect. You know duet allows for you supply an alternate voltage for all the fans -- there is a fan V-In pin which can either be jumpered to VCC or 5V or can be given alternate 12v voltage, and as long as you have common ground -- you can use 12v fans throughout -- if that's what your goal is
Fantastic Info on the fans. Thank you! I guess I missed that feature in my research.
@@DesignPrototypeTest just do a search in the duet forum for 12v fans. It's a trick since duet has a 5v rail, so you can jumper the fans over to use 5v, or remove the jumper and feed whatever voltage you want into the fan Vin pin, (within reason lol) duet does pwm on the grout pin, so Vin for fans can be totally independent.
if you want to nerd out on connectors, check this resource: tech.mattmillman.com/info/crimpconnectors/#minipv in the comments are some good cheap tool recommendations
I don’t agree with the opinion that ferrule crimp is better than solder. Solder May be soft but if you screw a terminal tight enough you will bite into the copper. The solder will fill the void and will provide further ohmic contact. A crimp forms a surface contact which is a V shape and hence will have more chance of oxidisation. Solder is a chemical bond.
@@pentachronic ferrule creates a square which the shape of the screw type connector. Soldered end is still round
As long as the positives and negatives are considered in the upcoming video, I don't see a problem with that stance. That being said, please pull your quotes directly from the creators and open source docs in the future.
Yep. I am right with you on the whole clone/ knock off thing. Clones and cloners suck.
Great to watch in-depth videos on the subject. Thanks.
The proper tool to use for crimping is a PA09 "engineer" brand been using them for years and not had a bad crimp
Anything is better than the job shown. Even squeezing them in the door jamb would yield a better result.
zapro_dk Well yes the attempt shown was how shall we say somewhat well below sub standard, but you must remember that the maker of the video might not even know that what he presented would make most of us technically minded types cringe, and unless we help to educate him he will never see the error of his ways. Unless of course he doesn't think there was anything wrong with what he presented, then in that case there is no point in trying to help him.
@Don Mega As someone who used to work in the automotive industry where the wiring harnesses were made, there is no way that that crimp would have passed inspection. Lately I've been using this crimp tool from Hobbyking and it does crimps as good as I saw from the dies at work.
hobbyking.com/en_us/hobbyking-jst-sh-connector-crimping-tool.html
Its designed for the JST SH terminals but crimps the Molex ones from Duet just as well.
Its nice and cheap too.
Can I copy the fan/ BL touch bracket you designed?
Yes. Please do. I only ask that you give credit to me if you feel I influenced you.
Design Prototype Test where do I go to download it, unless your not sharing your design.
I will design my own fan shroud.
isn't support on products mostly done free by the community, not the company that designed it?
please install duet 2 on prusa i3
Ha Ha Ha! I had not thought of that :) Mythbusters proved that it is possible to polish a turd. Prusa took this to heart and he has polished that turd of a printer to make it shine. You get great performance out of a Prusa (apparently, but I wouldn't know because I've never used one), but that is because they have taken the lackluster platform and tweaked/tuned it to the N-th degree until it performs so well. I'm uninterested in duplicating this effort with a Duet control board. I would rather start with a better frame design. One which doesn't have the very foundation of the print bed held on with zip-ties.
Prusa also didn't send out it's printers with horrible QA. I've HAD to mod my Ender 3 to get it to work, if I had the money I would much rather get a Prusa that's proven to work.
While I've never had my hands on a Prusa the consensus seems to be that they are better than an Ender 3, but at 4X the cost is it worth it? Is a Prusa really 4X better?
what wiring job did i just see. bro
This is a really interesting project and seeing the step by step process is really helpful, thank you. I’m interested in converting an Ender 2 into a dual cyclops extruder, so a duet board seems to be ideal for that. A couple of questions, did the Creality steppers plug straight into the duet board, and will the steppers need a difficult calibration process? Thanks! That being said, the increasing amount of opinion presented as fact is getting weird. For example - ‘Reprap is better than marlin” - but no justification presented except more bits?! Also, stealing involves depriving the owner of possession - none of what you’re saying is stealing. Does E3D call using their forums for support to run a copy ‘stealing’? I doubt they’d accuse potential future customers like that, and it would be inconsistent with their decision to open source. Comparatively, it’s not stealing to Debian forums to troubleshoot a Ubuntu installation. Why try to prevent access to the hobby by making the financial hurdle artificially higher? The copies increase the size of the whole market which benefits the original creators as well, it’s not a zero-sum game. That’s not to say the benefits of the increased quality of the original products shouldn’t be played up (the carrot), but using the ‘immoral’ card as a stick isn’t right (in my opinion!). Thanks again for the project.
Hi Ed. Yes the wring plugged right in and it worked fine. All I had to do was click the "invert" button on the firmware configurator. I will cover this in the next video. I will also cover the reasons why reprap firmware is better than Marlin.
You present the most logical and evenly stated argument against my "stolen" claim yet. Most people just say "Wrong, you are wrong!" in emotionally charged language. I will have to give your words serious consideration, and I will respond in the upcoming video dedicated to open source and knockoffs.
Thank you for the comment!
Thanks man. As a counter-point to myself, I can't say I fully understand open-source in the context of hardware design, and I appreciate that a lot of the knock-offs don't seem to be released within the spirit of open-source as I understand it from the software environment - for example, do the manufacturers of the knock-offs open source the details of any iterations they make themselves? I'm guessing they should and we shouldn't support them if they don't.
Notification squad? 😆
With all the expenses at buying those upgrate parts and the huge amount of time it takes to build, it makes more sense to buy a better printter. Unless you get the parts for free from the suppliers like most TH-camrs !
The BLTouch is not Open Source, so copying it is theft. I don't know about the Duet, but if they release their designs as Open Source, then it's legal to copy it... If the firmware only is open source, then that's another story, copying the boards would then be illegal.
One thing that bothers me about the Ender3 is the XT60 connector is backwards.
The supply side is supposed to be the connector with the barrels
The load side is supposed to be the connector with the bullets.
Also, the XT60 makes no sense here. It would make sense with the Ender 2, but there it's missing. Do people really replace their mainboard or PSU that often?
1. DO NOT crimp on ferrules like this, even clamping it with a vice is more effective. Proper automatic crimp tools for this task are very cheap.
2. If you don't want to buy a crimp tool simply insert the bare wire. Ferrules are only needed for regular screw terminals which are not even used for PCBs. The terminals of the Duet clamp the wire between two flat pieces of metal, so you do not need a ferrules
3. Never insert a JST XH connector into a Molex KK terminal, you will not get a good connection. Mini-PV a.k.a. DuPont connectors are not good either but they at least connect properly.
REPLACE the power supply! it will hold the machine back. even creality is switching to MeanWell PSU's under $40 on amazon to replace the PSU on the ender 3 (and the pro, cr20, and ender 5 all come with meanwell now) your bed will heat up much faster hit 115-120 no problem and if its not tooo cold in your house like it is in mine 130-135 is possible. that means POLYCABONATE becomes possible!!!
In Australia you're not aloud to tin your wire before you put it in a screw terminal
In this case, the Ender 3 should be banned from Australia as it comes with tinned leads in the screw terminals.
The tinned leads thing? Some (I assume Aus is one of them) govts don't allow solder under Fire regs. For two reasons, as I understand it. 1: the solder can melt-out in a fire, possibly disconnecting safety systems. 2: It can pour onto other circuits, causing shorts... now you don't use crimps in firesafe systems, solder is in everything electronic and by the time a house is on fire. You'll get shorts from everything insulated by plastic(s)... But it makes sense to some politician somewhere, they have to do something, or you'd realise Policy is automated and MP's are just office administrators xx
If you are not aloud, just be quiet about it then *allowed. Tinning wires in terminals is a death sin. I have seen electrical cabinets ending as a smoking pile of dust because of this.
zapro_dk bully :D and totally legal in the UK (but 99% of all main is solid core anyway) I still have commercial tinned flex in my cupboard xx
All wires are tinned anyway. The silver colour of the wire is tin coating. So if that’s Australian Law it’s friggin stupid.
Not tinnng the wires comes from aircraft standard practice, due to vibration it may break at the end of he soldering. Not applicabe at a 3D printer, the vibrations are not even near an aircraft. There is no softening of the tin because of aging.
“…telling me that I don’t understand open-source, because of the…I didn’t realize it was controversial, but I guess I have a controversial and very strong stance about supporting original creators and how its amoral to buy knock-off products…”
he says, as he’s trying to knock-off an original creator (Prusa), by using a knock-off product (Ender 3). Does this spell out the hypocrisy for you, or do you need more examples? Apparently, your stance isn’t that strong. This isn’t some Alanis Morissette irony.
There’s a reason why all these cheap knock-off Chinese printers have improved dramatically, and that reason is due in large to the efforts of an original creator (Prusa), the fantastic team assembled at Prusa Research, and the thousands more that contributed. You’re doing exactly what the Chinese have been doing for decades, and not just with 3D printers, trying to generate a product on the cheap without honoring patent law and licensing agreements.
I laugh in your general direction. Nothing about the ender 3 is a knockoff of a Prusa. The overall frame architecture with an overhead gantry and moving bed has been in use in CNC machines for 30+ years. Prusa did not even develop it for 3D printers. It was the logical progression from the Mendel (a design invented by Dr. Adrian Bowyer and copied by Prusa for his first commercial printer). Furthermore, Prusa started using the Aluminum extrusions under his bed AFTER china adopted that construction technique. The Prusa uses linear bearings and rods. The Creality uses Pulley wheels traveling along the grooves of the extrusion. Should I go on? Nothing about the Ender 3 is a copy or a knockoff of a Prusa. Compare that to the "3DTouch" sensor, or the clone of the DUET which are virtually identical to the originals, except where corners have been cut to save cost. You Prusa fanboys are starting to get on my nerves. Your boy didn't invent 3D printing. He didn't even come up with the vast majority of the innovations on his printer. He is just mining the internet for good ideas then putting them on his product and acting like he is the bringer of innovation. He isn't.
Kevin... no. The ender 3 isn’t a Prusa knockoff. It’s motion system and overall design is completely different. I do understand Crealitys ongoing GPL issues, and yes, they’re a bad company for not complying with those licenses, but the ender 3 is an original machine from what I can tell...
Tis' but a flesh wound. Seems like I found that last nerve and poked it with a cattle prod. You completely and utterly missed the point. It's not the Ender that I'm calling a knock-off of a Prusa. YOU are the hypocrite for saying that you have a "very strong stance about supporting original creators" then turn around and try to knock-off an original creator by implementing some of the innovative features which, albeit may have not originated directly from Prusa Research, but were most definitively and unequivocally compiled, tested and implemented by Prusa Research into an original product. I'm an advocate of additive manufacturing, so your nonintellectual attempt to insult me with your "fanboy" comment has completely missed the mark, and I'm well aware of the historical and controversial nature of additive manufacturing. You are the initiator of uttering the name "which must not bespoken", not I. And, as far as finding good ideas and implementing them into a product is pretty much the definition of innovation, so, lighten-up man, own up to your hypocrisy, and complete the upgrades to your Ender. I myself have openly borrowed the removable magnetic print bed, brought to us by Prusa, on my own Ender.
I wasn't calling the Ender a knock-off of a Prusa, merely pointing out the hypocrisy of the author of the video who is trying to use a knock-off product to duplicate results similar to that of an "original" creator (apparently calling Prusa an original creator is highly offensive to some, hence the quotes). Creality has some good stuff, I own several Ender versions, but they are far from original.
There.. you see? burn in the fire of Kevin's poorly written assertion. :nD
How DARE you upgrade a well-made Cetus knock-off (from a sea of knock-offs) with original parts and make a video! How very dare you mention Prusa in the title, or have any kind of spoken opinion!... That's it, I shall fart in all of your general direction(s) your mothers are clearly hamsters and fathers all smell of elderberries. :oP - wow TDP, you slanderous, fanboy hating, Hypocrite xx Keep up the good work :oD xxMDK
Chinese wire is probably responsible for more issues with cheap printers than anything else. A little acknowledged difference between Chinese and Prusa probably. I have had many issues wiring my Duet to various Chinese parts and harnesses. Not many are willing to rebuild their entire wiring harness (including me). ;-)
Ive been tinning my leads for over 20yrs and never had one issue...
A 1st world country was a term for countries aligned with the US or the 'west' during the cold war. Open source is a term denoting products or usually software for which the original source code is made freely available and may be redistributed and modified. Like Android, Linux, parts of Tesla, etc. A knockoff is an unlicensed copy or imitation, especially of a popular, expensive or designer product. Open source is what makes the Maker community.
A dictionary is a book where anyone can look up definitions. A pedant is someone who makes an inappropriate display of knowledge. You think you are being clever and factual by defining things instead of crafting a thesis. In reality you are just being lazy, and you don't understand open source. Here, I made a video explaining it for you: th-cam.com/video/iKhn5IcVvAg/w-d-xo.html