Upgrading the Creality Ender 3 with Duet Wi-Fi, and other add-ons - part 1
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ส.ค. 2018
- The Creality Ender 3 is a great platform. Modifying it with a Duet Wi-Fi control board, a laser filament sensor, and noctua fan, along with some 3D printed parts will get us half way to making a printer which will be better than the industry leader and cost significantly less.
Part 2: • Wiring the DUET Wi-Fi ...
Ender 3 $235
Duet Wi-Fi $170
Filament Sensor $25
Noctua Fan $16
TOTAL $446
To get the printable .stl files shown in the video: bit.ly/2uyR9vl
Full Disclosure: I was given all the products in this video by the respective manufacturers for the purpose of making review or instructional videos. The exception is the Noctua fan which I purchased on Ebay. I do not accept payment from the manufacturers, and I do my best to present unbiased information to you, my viewers. i.e. Just because it was given to me doesn't mean I'm going to say good things about it. If it's crap, I will tell you. Unfortunately, these videos do not generate enough income to purchase the products I review. Therefore, I have to ask the respective companies to give them to me, and if a company is not willing to provide the unit I do not make a review.
Purchase genuine products.
BLTouch: www.antclabs.com/bltouch
Duet WiFi in the UK: www.duet3d.com/index.php?rout...
Duet WiFi in the US of A: www.filastruder.com/search?ty...
Came here to see an Ender3 getting rewired on a new mainboard.
Saw a dude showing off the stuff he got for free and telling me "that it is worth the money".
Clicked on the video, read this comment then closed the video. Thank you for saving me time.
Yep, in his opinion the stuff was worth the money the vendors are asking for it.
Is there any step by step tutorials for the circuit board ?
Same here, saw first comment then closed it.. even took away my thumbs
@@gangleweed It's very easy to say it's worth it when you're not actually paying. That's what the original comment was getting at.
Long before "3d printing" was known at all, neighbor Joe - driving a Chevy - moved in next to neighbor Fred - driving a Ford. For a few years, Joe & Fred were amicable friends, until Fred starting crowing about his new Ford, and how it soundly trounced Joe's Chevy. Well, Joe has owned Chevys since he was a teen. Both autos use gasoline, have 4 rubber tires, and move from 'A' to 'B'. But now Joe and Fred don't talk to each other because of opinionated bickering. Makes for great community, eh?
Yeah? Well my Bimmers like twice as good as your Honda :oP and my Dad's a lawyer, yours still works at Tesco's #wow xx
Yeah but if you want a community of people who are enthusiastic about the parts on a car, you're ignoring that by just thinking that the cars are all the same when they aren't some. Some drive better and some drive worse, and mods for one don't work for mods on another.
Plus, I don't see why people are angry if someone else demonstrates how to make improvements to a Chinese printer that they might have started with. It's like telling people they're not allowed to say they think JDM cars are better. It cuts out a major talking point about mechanical features to improve on.
Arguing over which is better, Ford och Chevrolet. That's sad. :-)
@@johnbuscher cheap chinese printers (like the ender 3) are how people get into 3d printing, i know i wouldnt have gotten into it if it was 500+ to get into it still
Dont throw the board away. Whenever I do an upgrade I keep the board, and put it in a basic printer later. By saving basic boards from upgrades, I've been able to put them in cheap basic DIY printers, for my brother, my girlfriend, and my daughter...
as long as it works for someone who just wants a bit of fun, who cares if its basic...
Yes, post to me in case I blow mine up. :oD
Yes!
Plus dont throw the board away any board could malfunction at anytime or something could go wrong and jnstead of waiting for a new board you can just throw the old one back in and get back up and running in a hour or so.
By definition, you can't make a knock off of an open source design. Nor is it a "clone".
If they don't want other people making their design then they need to patent it or copyright it. Since they choose not to, then we have a choice of buying from the designers, paying more, and getting better support or buying less expensive option and realizing that we are on our own for support. Neither option is immoral, it's the choice that the designers gave us when they released their design to open source. The BL Touch on the other hand is a patented design, and the inventor is obligated to defend the patent. Buying a cheap copy of this knowing the original is patented in my opinion is immoral.
For people who are complaining and saying you are anti- Prusa they need to realize for a lot of people getting one of these cheap Chinese machines upgrading it making it better is half the fun I think you did a great job I love the video
Thanks Angel!
I never would have thought of using a shallow tray of water for testing airflow. That was pretty cool. As far as you being criticized for making changes to a printer, I think those folks are missing a far more important idea: maybe you don't need to spend the time making the upgrades, maybe there cheaper/better/faster options out there, but I learned things from this video that I can apply to other projects
Only reason this upgrade makes any sense it's because it was free for you. What's the price of all the PROVIDED components compared to the next best printer?
I'm sorry but this doesn't make sense, nothing actually improves the printers print quality but you managed to spend an extortionate amount of money on a very cheap printer that prints well out of the box.
Better options would have been
* replacement extruder because the original one is a terrible design
* better pneumatic fittings for the bowden tube
* linear rail for y axis to improve stability
* check everything is square tight and runs smoothly
* heated bed insulation
* re-flash so you can get manual mesh levelling
* when you have manual mesh levelling fit solid spacers instead of springs to the bed
* Tusk cooling nozzle simple and effective
* get a good slicer profile
All done costs next to nothing and will have better print quality as well as more reliability and reproducibility.
Spending more on a board than the whole machine is just in my opinion a bit daft and i say that as an owner of multiple DuetWifi boards and as it happens Ender 3's.
Where is a good source on getting and upgrading to linear rails for the Ender 3?
Cool, thanks!
no problem.
Basicaly that.
I would buy two ender3s with that money...
Hack it, make it dual extuder, double z axis, anything original...
not... ~lets replace with Duet Swag that i got for free...
lame
My Tevo Tornado's got these beat. ;-)
Let's start busting Myths.
Printed parts are a problem as are zip ties. - Nope. The printed parts on the Prusa are high tolerance, the zip ties are not structural, the rods snap into the brackets, the zip ties just keep them from popping out when you move the printer. The I3 Mk2 has a FAR superior frame, the steel rods with ball bearing runners are much better than aluminum channel and roller wheels.
Further, after upgrading all these parts you're into this for about $450, and you're stuck with a still inferior machine to the Prusa. The Prusa has dual stepper motors on the Z axis and has a direct drive extruder compared to a Bowden extruder. Direct drive is superior as it requires less retraction, wastes less filament, and can print more filament types as the motor is closer to the hot end. Not only does the Prusa have dual steppers on the Z axis but it has higher quality steppers, the Ender 3 steppers need a Z interval of multiples of 0.04mm to get a quality print where the Prusa is as fine as 0.0025mm meaning any Z height you desire will give you a good result.
Don't get me wrong, I own both a Prusa AND an Ender 3 which I've done many mods on, but my Prusa is head and shoulders a better printer. I also expect that it will complete many more prints than my Ender before it needs major work.
If you're going to put $450 into a printer you're better off with a Prusa Mini. I know that wasn't available in 8/2018, but it is now.
True that
Could've said it better myself. just got me a prusa a couple of weeks ago, and its by far a better, more reliable printer.
This is an old post but, cant you tune the creality motors to work like prusa's as far as i know theyre both 1.8 degree motors with a +/- 0.09 degree deviation at 0.04... if both motors have a 1.8 degree step angle then theyre both 200 steps per revolution right? Wouldnt that boil down to stepper drivers and the board? I could be wrong but isnt that why he uses spi mode on 2130s for the enhanced microstepping? Im curious because i own 2 ender 3's and would love to acheive that level of accuracy
One thing I would like to see are fire hazard prevention measures added to the cheap cnc. I am pretty sure there are some programming safety checks in the prusa which the cheapers ones don't have and also the controller boards are possibly built in such a way they are less likely to burn your house down.
a year ago I saw this and had no idea what he was doing. I now print stuff like crazy
Thanks for video and audio files for really.
_"other printers from china don't even come close"_
*A wild TEVO TORNADO appears!
And that wild Tevo does PC, unlike the Ender.
Outside of all the 3d printer politics, this is a really interesting video (as an owner of an Ender 3).
Hows this setup treating you? I'm pretty interested in doing it with mine.
Awesome to see someone else using Rhino for CAD work! I took a class on it in highschool and haven't been able to use any other CAD software since.
I really love Simplify3d, and have used this for years, way before the other slicers have caught up. I still use it, but I I think the gap between it and other slicers is growing smaller and smaller. I do feel that they are not innovating especially in areas of multi material prints when you look at some of the others the wipe towers and colour change in infill are just so much ahead of simplify 3d. Also with other slicers having better, and stronger infills. I don't have a multi material printer yet but I am looking forward to getting myself the multi material 2.0 for my i3 MK2.5 but I am not looking forward to using prusa control to slice my multi material printers.
Also the BL Touch I really love, I have purchased 2 of them for my old printer, 2 because I have an 2 extruders which I switch back and forth, and got sick of transferring the bltouch.
I also disagree with you about always purchasing original products and not the knockoffs, Creatlity printers are basically knockoffs of the Prusa i3, (more actually a knockoff of a knockoff) and build their printers on the marlin firmware. Basically I believe that if you can afford it and you think it is worthwhile then purchase from the original designer, but companies like Creality and Tevo have brought out printers which some people would consider them cheap chinese knockoffs, but they print amazingly and are a great printer for someone wanting to get into the hobby. Unfortunately cheap Chinese knock offs are the reality of all business these days and you need to make sure your business model can with stand this.
I disagree. Creality printers look nothing like Prusas. The frame is different, it's a Bowden, and it doesn't have crappy 3d printed parts. The only thing that's really the same is Marlin (Not Prusa) and that the Y carriage moves which makes it inferior to corexy, anyways. You should call all those corexy printers cheap copies of each other but I bet you won't.
Directly under the nozzle with the head-on colliding air streams it seems that pressure is maximized (hence the "dimple" in the water) but the flow would be minimized or zero. It seems like it would be better to bias the left/right air streams to the +y and -y respectively so that directly around the nozzle you get a vortex, ie a donut region of high air flow encircling the nozzle which seems like it would do a better job of cooling the hot plastic as the nozzle moves away, regardless of which way it is traveling. What do you think? (neat design overall though!)
Isn't it? Sounds like DPT put a day of work into an great pcf doo dah. Better than the #petsfang ? I think so :o)
:>) Looks like my Bullseye minus the plenum used to balance the pressure.
The long term max operating temp of nylon is around 120-150c. I think youll be running into other heat related failures before the v groove wheels.
This is good information. Thank you. Do you have a source? Where did you learn this?
@@DesignPrototypeTest I looked up long term nylon max temp then read a few industrial white papers. The numbers varied depending on the nylon blend but I didn't see any under 120c. Check out this link omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/max-continuous-service-temperature
This shows the lowest numbers I found. Showing 120c for pa6
Thank you! I will talk about this.
Design Prototype Test ...Someone above said the wheels were actually made from delrin...not nylon. Feom DuPont’s website: “Delrin® acetal homopolymer (Polyoxymethylene POM) is the ideal material in parts designed to replace metal. It combines low-friction and high-wear resistance with the high strength and stiffness such applications require. It provides a wide operating temperature range (-40 °C to 120 °C) and good colorability. Delrin® also mates well with metals and other polymers and offers excellent dimensional stability in high precision molding.”
I'd love to learn more about that cool new laser filament sensor. They're bound to be very popular in the future.
I purchased a cr10-max they are great machines and have done some upgrades, wonder if you could put a mmu2 on it and never run out on the filament during prints as when they run out turn the bed off and go to a pause point and restart results are no good unless you are there and for large prints over a month is impossible to gauge to change. Have considered the palette 2 as an option Your thoughts thanks David NZ
I'm starting to apply some of the add-ons from various youtube videos. At some point I figure it's gonna be an Ender 3.5!
I first bought an Ender 3 Pro.
Extended it to 400x400x400 (with extrusions, not kits), doubled the Z, redesigned the entire cooling system to be decoupled from moving parts (fans go brrrr and are gyroscopic masses that limit acceleration, having them attached to the head makes no sense what so ever), redid the entire extruder because I don't like having an extra motor weighing down a moving axis, redid the bed to have its X axis movement AND 2 round rails to give it that little bit more rigidity and am currently redesigning the hot end because the was it's set up by default (on almost all maker 3D printers) makes no sense what so ever to me, like really, why the hell does everyone keep attaching more mass, more vibration and more heat to that thing and mount it in tilted way from a flimsy aluminium extrusion.
Meanwhile, I bought an other Ender 3 Pro which I just did the basic upgrades on to have a stable printer to print with.
This hobby is nuts.
@@enlightendbel Are the plans or instructions for decoupling the cooling system online?
I intend to exchange my cooling fan for a more silent one, but making it even more silent definitely sounds nice
Will the entire 3d printing community stop bashing each other? We are better than this! The entire reason 3d printing has and is growing is because of the great community. If you want to stick a 200 dollar board on your printer good for you! Doesnt mean anyone else is forced to! Someone might like it enough to try it and build upon it and that is also good! Please stop the hate on both sides. Its not helping anyone.
I came here to agree on that.
Even though DPT is full of bullshit these days, hatred have to stop.
He may be right in that Joseph haven't invented all those features, but it's all were contributed on the very same terms RepRap community made this tech in the first place and as Richard defined freedom.
Every single contributor published those inventions on terms of free license exactly because they wanted those inventions to be used.
And Joseph too contribute to community, so not only he have every right to use any of those features (anyone have such right, even Chinese vendors and even DPT), he's actually very generous pays back for all the features he uses to make money.
Because every inventor and also anyone in the world are able and allowed to use what Joseph made now.
The point in paying the price for Prusa printer is not just for buying a printer but rather for supporting people who make this world a better place.
Well tbf it is mainly the community bashing him. It's pretty 1 sided. I havn't seen the community be this angry before, ever. I think the 3D printing community is by far one of the more friendly communities. I personally think it is for good reason people are angry.
I hate the argument 'iF uDont lIkE tHe ConTent DonT wAtch It'
Well, no, if there's a twat fooling around disrespecting everything (Logan Paul for an example), you can't go 'I'll just ignore it'
This guy obviously does have some knowledge and experience, but he needs to clean up his toxic attitude
NoHaxjustWho well, he’s doing the bashing in the video rather than in the comments, but he’s doing it nevertheless.
But he’s very inconsistent in his ideas of open source. You have to buy the original Duet rather than a clone, because you should support original creators. But you should definitely buy your basic motion platform from creality rather than Prussia, because... reasons?
I mean, it’s great that Creality manages to produce solid products at a very low price, and they’re basically shipping them at more or less bom cost! Awesome. And it’s great that they’re open sourcing them! But they’re not developing very much - not even software and filament profiles and the like. Or, hell, fuckin’ manuals. So yeah, it’s great that what they develop is open source - it’s just not a lot.
When you buy a Prusa kit for 800 bucks, that’s about 3-500 bucks for components (and yes, their shit *is* more expensive than what gets put into a $200 kit. It just is.). The rest is customer support (that is not cheap! Even in Czechia!), manual writers, refining the design. Etc.
If you really want to talk about who copies who: first there was Darwin, and then Mendel. And from Mendel cane the Prusa Mendel, back when it was just him in an attic room experimenting for the hell of it. And then came the i2 and the i3. Just about every low end kit printer relies *strongly* on the development work done in large part by Joseph Prusa personally. The Ender and CR10 are very much descendants of the Prusa Mendel, not of the Reprap Mendel.
I mean, I get it, the guy in the video is too much of a Johnny-come-lately to 3D printing to know his history, and so he is judging from a position of great ignorance that the company Prusa built - long after the Chinese started shipping cheap clone kits of his i3, incidentally - isn’t contributing enough to the cheap 3D printer scene, all the while using a printer which still relies heavily on work done by Prusa.
Go back to your Delta, if you want to slag off Prusa.
Just gone through a binch of your videos, quite enjoyed them. I have a self build Core XY, absolutely destroys i3 configurations. All linear guides. I do have a number of ptited parts but they are for holding cables or mounting electronics. Mechanical and structure is 100% metal. Mains voltage silicone bed ofcourse.
Awesome Man! I'm really excited for an industry wide shift to CoreXY, and away from this stupid moving-bed "I3" style frame being dominant.
I have an Ender and the problem I ran into is the rubber rollers wearing so the table is now so sloppy that it can’t be leveled and print the first layer well. If the rails for the bed were at the outside edges it would have been a lot more stable. I “retired” it and bought an ANYCUBE I3 MEGA which has linear bearings and are widely spaced for more stability and no wear problems. Same price, much better quality.
Thanks for sharing :-)
thanks for the #chicken :n)
Adding supports manually is available in Cura too, for free....
This is great for people that like to screw around with printers for a hobby.
If you follow along with my build, it's not even "screwing around" it's a straight forward assembly that results in a printer better than anything else near the price point.
@@DesignPrototypeTest What's the total cost and total time taken to modify the printer to achieve the same output as a Prusa? Prusa uses upgrades where it matters, zipties holding down the bearing rods versus a metal bracket doesn't result in any quality improvement. They even use steppers with integrated leadscrews to help eliminate Z wobble and coupling issues.
I've recently made the final version. I call it "The Ender 3 Evolution" You can see the video here: th-cam.com/video/SOZe_fg9DN8/w-d-xo.html Total cost on that was $490 with an Ender3 Pro, Flex Steel PEI bed, BLTouch bed leveling, Direct drive using a Dual Drive extruder, and a Duet2 WiFi control board. You could easily do it for $410. I covered price near the end of the video.
Running the power supply on wrong line voltage = essentially half the voltage ... i'm not so sure about that. It will try to make the 24V and probably will without load, but when loaded the voltage will sag down.
I see no problem with the company seeing good ideas and improving their stock level product.
The people who came up with the upgrade ideas are making them available as free, public domain information.
Creality is simply saving people the trouble and expense of doing the upgrades.
Watch them come out with a new upgrade package "Ender 4" with the mods you list in this video.
if you don't want you"re old main board, could I have it, I am having trebles with mi one. you knw what they say: ones mans rubbish is a norther mas thresher. thanks
Hey great video thanks for the info what software do you use for the design work?
th-cam.com/video/pKLSTQcFTUI/w-d-xo.html
Nice fan duct!
Talking about stealing: YOU STOLE MY TIME!
True to character, I would expect a sith to cheat. Win by any means necessary right? In this case you are lying, by not acknowledging that you have free will. You could have skipped along on the time slider, or even closed out of the video. Nobody made you watch this video. I stole nothing from you.
@@DesignPrototypeTest he is triggerd
The wheels are made from delrin
You can do the custom supports in Cura with a plugin, lots of add-ons available
Great video! I have a PRUSA MK3 and an Ender 3 in my collection of 5 printers. Perfect timing for your series, I have another Ender 3 still in the box. How are running the 40mm 12v Noctua as cooling fan? I know the Noctua on my MK3 is a 5 v running off the board.
I will use a $3 step down voltage regulator AKA buck converter.
You seem to have very conflicting views... maybe have a look at this video again... it’s definitely not your best work man
I agree with you philosophy of supporting the original creators so I got the Prusa i3. ;)
what do you mean?
Newly shipped Ender 3 printers now come with a 32 bit control board, maybe with the silent stepper drivers. For an extra $10-20 the ender 3 pro adds a removable build surface.
You should add an all metal hot end ($22-$65).
I went with the skr mini + rpi for klipper and the bltouch. Now waiting on the remaining parts to make an ender version of the voron afterburner direct extruder.
With regards to the wheels, I will replace them with rails at some point.
Before you complain about Prusa using ideas from hackers on the internet (properly called open source technology) you should do a bit of research on the origins of home 3d Printing. Specifically the Rep-Rap project, and Prusa's contributions to that.
3d printing been around since the 80's... prusa is a company made up of other peoples work.. aka open source. not knocking them just stating facts
I think you don't understand the point of open source.
The point of open source is that everybody can copy, change, build improve or worsen it.
Calling someone a copy-cat because they use open source information/technology is blatantly ignorant and stupid.
The creators published their knowledge so even people who can not afford the first party price can benefit from it.
You saying that buying products from "copy-cats" is theft masks the intellect and graciousness of the creators.
Additionally throwing away the old mainbord, declaring it as nothing more than trash, and saying that any "rip-off" product is a waist of money
and also trash is really easy said if you don't pay for the parts yourself.
I myself as a student are only able to buy a 3D-Printer because of all the "copy-cats" and "thiefs" and the whole industry around 3D printing wouldn't flourish as much as it does if the everybody thought as selfish as you do.
brah
We would have *any* software industry to speak of if coders didn't share.
The whole stack from chip to browser started as some guys code in his bedroom.
Signed. A coder.
So you're a tight arse?
@@gangleweed
Wow, what a profoundly ignorant and judgemental comment.
Way to make yourself look like a horrible person with a single line of text.
Good job!
@@wanderingcalamity360 Whatever.....
In your opinion what is the best printer, laser, cnc all in one machine for the cost and have you tested one that has all three components ?
Can I get the other upgrades without getting the main board? Or is that required?
Thanks for doing this video, I was just asking Teaching Tech a similar question about upgrade costs to an Ender 3 vs buying higher end 3D printer.
Feel it's still missing half of the features that make a mk3 what it is
Subbed because this something i been wanting to do also, how hard would a touchscreen be to install with the new board?
Not hard, but a panel Due is expensive and it's not necessary. You can use your cellphone to control the printer through the web interface like I showed at the 7:20 mark in the video on my Tevo Little Monster.
Hello thanks for the video, can you write all the part list on the description please. Thanks
-DUET Wi-Fi
-Duet laser Filament Sensor (not available to the public. Still in beta)
-BLTouch sensor
-Noctua 40mm fan
-Noctua Redux 120mm fan
-Jumper wires. Alternately Dupont Crimp Connectors
-3D Printed Fan Duct/Sensor Bracket
-3D Printed Filament Sensor Bracket
Can i have the file for taht 3D print please!
Hey did you get the files from this dude for the fan upgrade? I got my machine apart and cant reach the guy?
Still upset that Prusa didn't send you a printer....
Actually, no. I'm looking forward to purchasing a Prusa so that I can do a 100% unbiased review with no strings attached. Why don't you donate to my Patreon page and help facilitate that happening. Thank you for you comment Martin. It's always nice to engage with my long time fans with elephant memory.
Lordy.... xx
Overall Prusa are the best.... it’s normal for competitors to try and slander the best in the business.
Wow... slander now hey? Prusa is dated old-industry gear now, that's why #Ender3 is outselling everything. Including i3 clone kits. I don't want overpriced plastic meccano in my shop. I want a Rigid, Workhorse that's good Value. They've done very well, i3 brought millions of people into 3Dp but this whole industry is way beyond hobby-halls now.
This tasteless stalking makes fanboys look very arrogant. Even so Opinion is not slander and Prusa aren't the best, just (probably) the biggest player in medium-cost FDM. They don't make ANY top-end prod units, that's not their market.. you are xx
The reality is I had a specific budget for a printer. The prusa was way out of my budget. I bought the creality and from everything I have been seeing by many many people it prints as well as the prusa. If the prusa was the only option I would never have gotten into this hobby
What budget (dual extractor) model under $300 can print Pva and Nylon? And all the best free software needed to make it work? Many Thanks
Quick comment on the wheels. They are Derlin, and the initial wear you get on them is the derlin conforming to the vslot perfectly, kind of breaking in. If they keep wearing after that, they are too tight. You should have no problem in an enclosure I'd think the steppers would overheat before the wheels would act up at all.
how do you know its better than a Prusa, without owning a Prusa ?
Burn!!!
I've seen so many 3D printers with great reviews that turned out to be crap when I saw them in person. Basically, any machine that is build from 3D printed parts and held together with Zip ties can NOT be considered to be a piece of precision equipment. When it is moved around it easily will get knocked out of tram (it it ever WAS accurately aligned to begin with). End of story.
how do you know eating poop is worse than eating chocolate if you haven't tried poop yet?
@@monofuentes you say this as a joke, buy it literally proves his point. You can't know, you're just unwilling to try. You may have a pretty good idea, but beyond that you're just guessing.
Good try, though.
@@monofuentes how do you know that you are eating chocolate and not poop if you don't know the difference? X)
Stealing? What's the purpose of "open source" if making is called "stealing"? I can understand the argument about "quality", but the way you represented that argument, is as though you're so sure that it will break down. But, is it "stealing" also if a company uses quality components to make them?
Awesome series!
Question: I am not knocking the Duet, I have one in another printer. But couldn't this all be done at an even lower price point with a different board? Say an MKS Gens 1.4 or L? Was it chosen more for future proofing? Even an MKS Sbase is 32 bit if that was a consideration. These are obviously lesser boards but, would the be able to provide the same benefits?
It's all about the firmware, and the wireless capability. The control boards which you mention will need to run Marlin, and to get wireless functionality you will need to add a raspberry pi and Octoprint. This is achievable, and there are many tutorials on the internet teaching you how to do this, but Marlin is a convoluted firmware, and adding the pi only makes it more so. I find the Duet board running Reprap firmware to be so much easier. Even novices will achieve a successful printer build. In my judgement, it is worth the money, but most people don't see it that way. Marlin is by far the dominant firmware. There are a few other control board options for running Reprap firmware.
How do zip ties or 3d printed parts affect the rigidity and functionality of the prusa frame. The prusa has aluminium extrusions too and a powdercoated metal frame. And where's fan RPM monitoring. Powdercoated PEI, Flex sheets power panic auto loading skew adjustment sensorless homing. Please can I repeat my self there is nothing wrong with the prusa frame. And you can also send print wirelessly with octoprint for and extra £10
The Mk3 is great right out of the box. It's good for beginners and experts with prusas big box level of support. Theres no scouring the internet to find the best slicer settings. It's loaded with features that you will never want to go without after using. IE mesh auto leveling, live z tuning, power panic, automatic squaring, stealth printing and mis step correction, magnetic bed, just to name a few. It's got a direct drive extruder, which is much better unless you're using 2.85mm filament, and still direct is better. It's also got an all metal hot end, not just any, but THE all metal hot end.
I always prep my print surface before a print, so though I have octo print setup, I find wifi printing useless.
Look, you can say I'm trying to justify my purchase but I've got 7 3D printers including an ender 3. Some much more expensive than the Mk3, but the Mk3 is the first one I look to. Joe and their team have put together a great machine and the fact that you will look down the whole community, a community that knows damn well about the ender 3 and how to upgrade it, and say all of you are wrong, and I alone am right, shows a high level of unprofessionalism to say the least.
WiFi board, seems cool, I might wanna... HOLY $170! I can live with an SD card and low cost board...
I spent $40 taking myself to a Sushi lunch the other day. So it's like four of those meals. Not that expensive, and definitely still in the realm of disposable income spending. Now ask me about the $3000 I spent on an E3D tool changing printer or the Shaper Origin. That is a waste of money. $5000 between those two and I've gotten WAY less utility out of those two machines compared to the Ender 3 with upgraded Duet board.
@@DesignPrototypeTest Its the same cost as the damn printer dude. Put that into perspective.
I believe that you can add a cheap wifi board to an SKR mini for a lot cheaper
I love your attitude about cheap knock off’s, nobody should support them just to save a few dollars it’s one of my personal peeves. Thank you for a great video
nice project!! what 3d modeling program do you use to create cooling parts?
th-cam.com/video/pKLSTQcFTUI/w-d-xo.html
The wheels are POM(Delrin). The use of steel bearings "galling" aluminum rails is not a myth, though it is misplaced. It comes from the CNC community which deals with a lot more force than a 3d printer ever would dream of. The same goes for the myth of the "best" drive system being ballscrews. True ONLY on CNC machines. Accuracy wise, concerning belts, leadscrews, and ballscrews, ballscrews are the least accurate of the three, though it is the most rigid of the three. The most accurate is actually the leadscrew. For accuracy, examine the number of steps per mm, as the higher the number, the more positions the motor can place the load in one mm. There has been a lot of bleedover from metalworking which is not accurate or even relevant to 3d printing.
Self lubricating glass filled nylon rollers
What is the cork like material on your bed? and why is it drooping in the middle?
Genius man!
I had an Ender 3 pro for awhile made additional upgrades to it and just bought a Prusa Mk3s and immediately saw a major difference i too thought the zip ties were a bit archaic but i was wrong the Prusa is amazing in allllll ways
The 3DTouch knockoff has been working great and costs so little. Is it also stealing when I go for knockoff PLA for 50% off because it's good enough?
Meh... I agree with the other commenters. I subscribed about 1/3 into the video, and then got almost to the end and was like "what is this weird vibe", looked at the comments, and they cleared up my thoughts and feelings real quickly. Not often you see so negative and still so civil comments on the internet.
You can't install the filament out sensor after the extruder motor. It will never detect a filament out situation because the filament is pushed by the motor and when the end travels just past the motor gear it stops moving. It does not keep going out to the hot end. It will keep the sensor indicating filament present after it runs out if you install it after the motor.
Man, you aren't alone in making this mistake. Many others have the same comment, but you guys need to give me a little credit. I know what I'm doing. What you and the others fail to realize is that the sensor is a motion detector. It reports how much movement of filament goes past it to the Duet control board. When the filament stops moving, but the stepper is still trying to feed filament the Duet board knows there is either a jam, or it has run out of filament. If I placed the sensor before the extruder, there would be no way to detect a looped condition where the flexible filament pops out the side of the extruder so that the extruder keeps pulling filament from the roll, but does not feed it into the hotend. Measuring the filament just before it goes into the hotend is the superior technique.
Nice video...I like the duet boards but they are way too expensive. Recently I have been using big tree tech’s 32 bit boards. Does the duet use 32 bit marlin or their own firmware? Also, what is the 3d design software that you are using?
Duet boards are powered by a very good 32 bit chip. Also they run Reprap firmware. Think of it like Apple computers who controls the hardware and operating system and gets them to function flawlessly together. Only in this case the board and the operating system are both open source. I've made a video on this exact subject. Marlin vs Duet - th-cam.com/video/bFQjFvxiIkg/w-d-xo.html
Design Prototype Test thanks for your reply. What is the 3d design se that you were using in your video? I tried but could not determine what it was. Also, how do you find cura 4.x vs s3d?
After finally using a prusa I would highly disagree that an ender 3 is on par with one even with a duet board inside
Creality do have knockoffs in the ender, because they cheap out on the power supply cable connectors
Just got an ender . You have my attention .
I've since made an even better build of the Ender3: th-cam.com/video/SOZe_fg9DN8/w-d-xo.html
The first time i installed my filamentsensor in the same way. But there is a problem. As soon as the Filament runs out and gets past the extruder its stuck. You won't get it out without disassembly. If the sensor is before the extruder its way easier. You can just retract it out.
Don't diss the prusa mk3 just because u don't have one
It just seems funny how many comments in the thread below are defending the position that this upgrade to the Ender 3 puts it on par with a Prusa. Very few of the commenters (and admittedly the video creator himself) actually own the printer(s) they are criticizing.
Owning both of these printers in question (and a few others), I was drawn to this video out of sheer curiosity. I will admit laughing at a few blatantly 'wrong' points, but all in all, I think the takeaways are as follows: 1. The Ender 3 on its own cannot stand close to the Prusa. 2. The whole point if the video is that by adding a Duet, you can come close for still much less $$. 3. The simple truth is ALL my printers is this - if you want to learn how 3D printers work, and spend a LOT of time working on them, buy an Ender 3 or many other chinese releases for less $$. If you just want to print and not worry about any of that crap, buy a Prusa.
It took me maybe hundreds of hours to realize this - but simply put, my Prusa spends most of the time printing and the others spend most of the time being attended to.. The simplicity of automation of the Prusa is almost unequaled in the industry right now. And no amount of tweaking on my other printers can beat the printing 'presets' that Prusa develops and releases with its updates. I'm certainly not a hater on my Ender 3 or any of the others, but after a certain point this hobby can just become WORK...
But my MK3S is the one printer that doesn't fall into that category. Especially moreso now after a recent MMU2S upgrade. Both the base printer and the MMU2S were worth every penny just in time saved, not to mention the components are all top notch out of the gate.
bless this comment. Had a Prusa for 1-1/2 years...just bought two Ender 3's and I am pissing away enough time tending to them that I could have bought a second Prusa. I actually think that is what I'm going to do. I want to print, I don't want to tinker with the hardware. The bed leveling on these things is archaic. I don't know why I haven't taken a baseball bat to both of them.
I am waiting for mine. Will take about 4-5 weeks.
My colleague got an Ender 3 and i tried a BIBO 2 because i wanted to print with two filaments for miniatures. We are both working with CNC machines and Autocad and actually wanted to try a new hobby.
But my printer failed after a while and i got a refund and redirected the money to a Prusa printer after taking in some information and seeing that they have a MM upgrade i can add later when i got used to it. The main thing that made me buy this instead of an Ender or other clone was the support i expect from the Prusa community.
Depending on the outcome our boss might even invest money into one if we can show him it can be used to make tools and gadgets for work.
Seeing the date of this, any chance there is a update (what about the Hemera direct drive print head/hot end), taking say a Ender 3 + new available upgrades today... edit... interesting question might be the required mods / extra bits required to add multi material printing.
Thanks for the video about the upgrade... I can't wait to see the completed conversion.
Doesn’t matter if developed by prusa it is on there and a great printer. Crowd source works. The features you cannot implement is the testing of out of box print profiles. All printers are solid you mentioned.
Dude this would be a great video, just edit out all the Prusa hating... also the panic mode and the “ layer skip” detection is Prusas
The "Layer Skip" detection which you mentioned is a technology developed by the German chip manufacturer Trinamic. Prusa had nothing to do with its development. Your comment is another example of someone with a bias toward Prusa thinking everything innovative in 3D printing originated from Prusa. A claim which is false. The vast majority of innovations on the Prusa printer were not developed by Prusa. He is not as much a designer or inventor so much as he is a curator.
Joseph hurt his feelings :)
I once heard from a wise man that printers are like cars they all look like cars and have similar features but are not created equal. For example the Dodge Avenger has power windows and so does the BMW i3, when I push all the windows down at once the dodge struggles and is at a different speed and torque than when I roll down one. When the i3 rolls all it’s windows down at once it’s majic, silent and moves smooth just the same with 1 or 4. You can add the features to these cheap Chinese printers you want but they will still always be an avenger 😎
can the laser filament be used to tell you how much filament your using
This guy has two cameras and he loves it!
Reminds me of the scene changes in Captain Scarlet :D th-cam.com/video/qSNNkN3ocfQ/w-d-xo.html
I clicked the link to get the .stl files and it was just a patreon screen, asking me me for money I litererally don't have. Thanks.
I'm sorry I can't give you the fruits of my labor for free. I wish I was financially secure enough that I could be so generous. Thank you for watching.
Yes i to think that was total crap since it is suppose to be open source. shows you how sorry people can be poisoned by greedy Corporate world where profit rules all.
there are others who share freely.
Tbh, the ender 3 is already a better printer and is by far the best sub-$300 prevents beating every other printer up to $500 where Creality’s CR-10 finally beats The Ender 3 which is also Creality, so basically Creality is the best 3D printing brand.
Good video!
Hi, I would like to know if Creality is a good 3D printing brand for starters(I just got a Creality and would like to know for the future). Please comment if you have an answer.
Yes. Creality is a good 3D printing brand for starters. You made a good purchase.
It will serve you good for the first year before it will give you constant failures because everything will break down, chinese printers are designed to last only 1-2 years. I own a cr10s (2 years now) myself and Prusa mk3s, tbh you got what you paid for.
For something to be immoral of course requires there to be a moral law and thus a Moral Law Giver. That aside, Open Source does not forbid copying per se does it? I agree that supporting the original devs will help us all in the longer term, but the devs presumably did have free will to choose to release the source code and the PCB designs into the wild. Nice video btw -- I'm keen to see part 2 !
It's not even a given that "supporting the original devs" will be better in the longer term.
Solar cell technology was originally developed for spacecraft applications and they were ridiculously expensive, because atfer all it was still a fairly insignificant fraction of the total price of launching said spacecraft. The users were "supporting the original devs", as it were.
It's only thanks to "copycats" and "thieves" that we now have solar cells which retail for 0.4$/Wp, and everyone is better off as a result.
The "original devs" are still making money regardless, because they're still selling their higher performance parts to space agencies which are certainly not going to slap a $500 solar panel off AliExpress on a $1B spacecraft.
What i learned from this video: Never trust the internet
With moving the BTtouch closer you could have stuck to the design, just drill a hole at the point needed? Would think a marginal difference to flow?
Probably true.
I know this is off the topic of this video but I have two questions... What are you doing with the waste plastic? How can we ensure that it doesn't end up in our landfills and the ocean? Thanks, Dan
Unfortunately, it goes to the landfill. Most of my printing is done with PLA, and that is good because PLA is made from corn and cane pulp. It is actually biodegradable in an industrial compost, so in the landfill it should break down in a decade or so. The parts I showed in the video were made from ABS, and that is non biodegradable. Fortunately, I don't print with that plastic very often.
Ender3 is by design a Prusa i3 "fork" - so in a sense, it is just a (built by third party) Prusa....
Well I like your videos especially the ones on TLM but I think you're a little bit off with this one. I will always love my Prusa 😍😍😍
There is a lot to be said for "Just works straight out of the box, and if it doesn't they have 24/7 support to help you fix it."
I have one and the part colling fan died already after putting less than 2kg of filament through it...they are not giving me a replacement. Also the sd card died soon after...
what keeps hitting the board with voltage? - one dead fan, sd card hit... static, earthing problem?
Static won't do it, earthing is fine or should be, guess I should check the PSU to confirm earthing. I doubt it's been hit with voltage though fans can be quite tolerant to voltage input more tolerant than some of the chips on the mainboard. The fan and sd card failing are common problems when you look into it. Users have also had the spring fail in the sd card slot amongst other things.
What on Earth are you talking about at the end? 🤣🤣🤣 I'll live though. I got a good cup of coffee. 😎
The Ender 3 looks like a good budget printer. I think the appeal of the Prusa is the high quality of the components they use.
''High quality components printed by another 3d printer"
Sorry not trying to troll your video, but I have a Prusa MK3... so should you. Really it’s needed to be fair. It’s pronted true, and yes on the zip ties. But, for that it’s pretty awesome. You talk about price, and how Creality is as good for the price point? Well Prusa is using genuine parts. E3D got end, Noctua etc.
Genuine stuff costs $$. Also they did invent the spring steel sheet thing or at least perfected it. It’s really awesome. So the trade off is some printed parts for amazing components and $799 shipped to your door as a kit, it’s 3.5x more than a Creality Ender 3, but you get genuine parts, genuine support, 24v, direct drive, spring steel PEI sheet, amazing heated bed, etc. it’s worth their price. Plus their support is second to no one in the space. Okay I’m done.
I was actually thinking that when he was talking about creality not using knockoffs. I was like, I'm pretty sure that E3d v6 is a knock off.
There is no E3D V.6 on a the Creality. They call theirs the "MK8 Extruder" and it has a very different heat sink, and mounting technique from E3D.
EDIT: I've been informed that the Creality hotend is a knockoff of a different company than E3D. The original inventor of that design is "Micro Swiss" based out of the Midwest.
@ THELIGHTSPEED Nobody ever accused Prusa of knocking off anything. All I'm saying is that almost every single innovation on the I3 Mk.3 is not something Prusa came up with. They aren't the source of innovation that everyone gives them credit for. True the bed design is a fantastic design and contribution, but that's only one of the features on that printer. Your best point is about the tech support. Direct drive has it's pros and cons, and their heated bed is not as good as a silicone pad. There is lots of room for improvement on a Prusa. Starting with the inferior frame design. A moving bed is inertial mass that should be kept stationary. A coreXY is a much better way to go.
Design Prototype Test hey man, I’m a fan... but if you are to be on the “no copy cat” platform, you have to get rid of GearBest. Those Creality printers have knock offs, the design itself is a RepRap platform, which is fine, but it’s more a copy of the Haribo I3 Design. Plus they are simply claiming to be open source but in truth are not.
Everyone says "cheap chinese printers" like they are low end stuff, hey let me tell you something. 100% of all the important components, such as motors , electronics, wires, linear bearings, lead screws, LCD panels, buttons, switches and more are sourced from "cheap chinese" factories. The only thing that makes a "non cheap chinese printer" is someone spends more time assembling and tweaking it.
Really, REALLY, interesting.
Would there be any problem with wrapping or otherwise treating (paint?) the air ducts to increase their resistance to melting?
VERY helpful, and informative-- you've covered many interesting bases. THANKS. Sub'd.
Question, do you think that with the duet wifi board you installed could be used to make the ender 3 into a dual extruder?
Absolutely. The only question is what kind of dual extrusion you are going to use. Side by side nozzles have big problems with ooze. I don't know how Stratasys get's it to work so cleanly. I advise against side by side. Next you have the "cyclops" style. Watch my early videos where I was playing around with 3-in-1-out color changes to learn the difficulties here. There are several aftermarket solutions in this category. While better than side by side, this techniques still has big problems. Next you have a switching extruder which pivots to change nozzles. I've never had enough time to play around with style yet. It looks really promising. There are designs on Thingiverse. Finally, you have tool changing. For the "I3" frame style like the Ender3 this pretty much means dual parking extruders. I like this technique most of all. In theory anyway. This one also, I haven't played around with yet. I do have plans in an upcoming series to go over all of these.
Thank god. I'm looking into getting that board and making my ender 3 a dual extruder just for fun. I'd love to see a video with all of the different types of dual extruders so that I can know which one would work the best.
Ok, just finished the whole video. Second comment. By the end of the video, my internal monologue is saying “fuck this guy” am I subscribed? No.. whew. You clearly have no frame of reference for your claims. Your prints look good, but are far from exceptional. Thanks for the lecture, but I’ll spend my money as I choose. Lame vid dude. 👎🏼
Very misleading video title.
PRUSA uses linear sleeve bearings which in my automation engineering experience fail WAY WAY too fast. I would like to see a THK type linear bearing block for rigidity and long wear.