Very great advice, my man! One thing I might add for beginners, like myself, is that you don't have to buy name brand velcro made specifically for guitars if you don't want to. Walmart sells industrial grade velcro that I have used before for different things and it is easily as good as the name brand stuff that these guys talk about, and most likely cheaper too. I understand though that they're salesmen and they want you to buy their stuff, free market and capitalism and all that.
@@thepipejunkie8359 No, it's not cheaper; it's way BETTER. Pedals stay right where you put them. You get what you pay for. That's kind of how the free market works. And it's just a roll or two of Dual Lock. It's not like you have to finance it for 15 years.
When you're a sole provider for a family of 3, you kinda have to use whatever you can afford. I'm glad you're so passionate about Dual Lock though, you keep doing you, bro
I don't like Velcro on my effects pedals at all... so I got a piece of used rubber belt material that was big enough, and I cut the pedal spaces into it for my pedalboard (similar to the Boss BCB-60, but with rubber belt material instead of "foam rubber"). I'm happy with the results I got from doing this... all 48+ pedals stay where they are supposed to, and there's no Velcro trying to rip the bottoms off of my pedals. Some pedals HAVE TO have the label on the bottom intact or they become basically worthless and not even pawn shops will take them. I don't plan to sell my pedals, but I also don't want to destroy their value.
Phil McKnight showed that you can cover the bottom of the pedal, particularly the label with painters tape and then the velcro will stick just fine, and the label is preserved. The only thing I've found it doesn't work well with is denelectro mini pedals, because the bottom is almost entirely textured rubber. For those, I just stick the velcro right on it. It's a plastic danelectro pedal....how much value is there to worry about? lol
Great advice. I'd also add to keep buffering strategy in mind as well. It's probably less important for two or three pedals, but once you start adding a lot of pedals, especially if true by-pass, and cabling, you may need a well placed buffer for capacitance purposes.
Also: I've seen many unhappy musicians - when they put their pedals Too Close together. During a Live-gig: you need to either-wear pointy-toe-shoes, or be "super precise" when tapping a tempo or activating a pedal. Also increases the chance of stepping-on-a-pedal that you did not want activated, or changing settings by mistake.
Those pancake jacks often don't work because pedal makers aren't thinking when they decide where the 9V input is going to go. I wrestle with this all the time because MXR, Catalinbread and others put it too close to the i/o jacks instead of up on the front of the pedal where it belongs, so not only will they not fit, it also makes it difficult to deal with the proximity effect. Sometimes they put all three jacks on the front, again, too close together.
Thanks for making this video Sweetwater! I think this will be very helpful now that many of us have a bit more time on our hands and want to make some tweaks to our pedalboards.
Fantastic advice I have a drop pedal that gives consistant buzzing I think I will try a different power supply I been trying everything to fix my problem.
On my iso brick, all of my pedals sounds sound about 50% less powerful than plug directly without the brick. Fuzz, Friedman OD, delay just sound very weak? Is it my cabling? They all sound fine with an single power supply. Any suggestions?
Hey, mmasterdp. Thanks for reaching out! The biggest things to make sure you have are good cabling and the proper amount of power going to your pedals. Each pedal draws a certain amount of amperage, usually milliamps (mA). So, you will want to make sure you have enough mA going to each pedal from your isobrick. Each power out will show you how much each pedal has to draw from and you should be good to go. If the isobrick is possibly defective then you will need to reach out to wherever you purchased the unit from to see if there is a warranty. I hope this info helps, but let us know if you have any more questions. Good luck! Jack Wellington, Sweetwater Sale Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 3240, jack_wellington@sweetwater.com
Good tips for cables. I just took all of my pedals off of two boards that I made from wood. 19 pedals... I want to sell this pile and just go rack mount for everything but I don't have the money. I need to make a 3 shelf pedalboard or something because I want my favorite 20 pedals on one board
Just purchased the Voodoo ISO-5, Question: This power supply has one input for 12V 300mA, I have 2 pedals that require that much power can I daisy chain the two pedals into that input?
Hi, Rowland! Thanks for your message, hope you're well and safe. If each pedal requires 300mA, then the split won't work. The output is halved when you connect two pedals. You also no longer have the pedals isolated since they share the same tap. Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them! Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
If I want to have in, out, send and return jacks mounted on my pedalboard, is there any advantage on using locking jacks? I see many brands using them, and even though they look very professional, I feel that they might be worse than regular jacks since if something happens and the cable is pulled from them, it will just handle all the stress instead of going out of the jack
Today i'm just using two pedals, compressor and reverb, whats your best advice for minimalist like me? Do i need pedalboard, Isolated power supply etc ? Todays i'm using 9V batteries for both of my pedals, do i need iso power? and adding extra carry gear?
I find that 9v batteries can get expensive with multiple pedals. you could use a daisy chain power supply (amazon for ~$10USD) assuming both pedals have the same polarity (usually center negative)
Khalazia Faqih Batteries are sort of like the original isolated power supply, so you won’t get much in terms of reducing noise. One really good device that I didn’t mention on here that is very well priced, it’s a Voodoo Lab X4 - it’s $79.99. It has four isolated outputs and you can use any 12 V wall wart to feed into the input and it’s super small, light weight and can tuck under just about any Pedalboard. The only real advantage would be that you wouldn’t have to change the 9 V battery devices every so many gigs. Or you can watch the video with RJ Ronquillo, where I made him a battery power supply box so he could have the batteries external to the products for easy changes but all housed in a nice enclosure.
Mason what do you recommend as instrument cable? I’m using Van Damme at the moment. I want as true a signal as possible hitting my board and amp!! Many thanks.
A problem I run into is going from my last pedal on the lower tier to the first of the upper or rear one.the input always seems to be opposite of the out on the previous lower pedal and I end up using a longer patch than what is ideal.Is a custom cable my only answer? Also will pedals ever become uniform with inputs on top or the side becoming standard? I think I like top input - output the best.
I ran into this same problem, from what I can tell you need a custom one or a specific size like the Ernie ball ones he mentioned, I have yet to check those out
Hi, Gary! Thanks for your message, hope you're well and safe. The M237 Brick is not an isolated power supply. The M238 ISO brick and M239 Mini ISO brick are isolated. Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them! Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
I have both a wireless and an active bass so from your other videos it appears I don’t need an input buffer. Is there any reason I can’t place my wireless on my pedalboard, run it straight into my effects, and only have one cable going back to my amp. Thanks for the education. I will see what I can do for further support.
Hi, Slim! Thanks for your message, hope you’re well and safe. Some wireless systems don’t play well with active electronics so you have to test the signal chain. In theory, yes you could feed the output of the receiver into your first pedal. If your amp has a loop, you can run your pedals there and have the wireless go into the amp input. Yes, two cables however it may be more favorable sonically. Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them! Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
Great information. My pedalboard lights blink when they are all plugged in. But when I disconnect one the blinking stops. Do you know what’s causing this?
Evan Keal What do you mean? AC would be like the power coming out of the wall into your amplifier, or your power supply. DC would be the outputs coming out of the power supply going to the respective devices.
@@VertexEffectsInc ok I get that but he is holding a patch cable when he says AC. I know even the DC power supplies have one AC cable, but I think he is referring to audio cables when he says. Ac, this is a board video, not a rig video, maybe I listen to literally. Not many people need to route AC power cables through the board, which is the scope here.
@@evankeal Audio signals are alternating current (micro-current) signals, audio signals have positive and negative voltage transitions at varying frequencies. The signal that comes out of your guitar pickup is an alternating positive/negative signal at the fundamental frequency of the note(s) being played along with tonal harmonics of the fundamental frequency, these are in effect AC voltages, typically in the range of milli-volt or sub milli-volt levels. What you want to remember is that if a power supply cable has to cross an instrument cable between pedals, try to make the intersection of the two cables at right angles to each other for the least amount of induced hum or noise.
@@rebel-yell9453 The only issue with DC crossing AC is if the DC also has noise on it. High frequency, clock noise, etc. But it has to be at high enough level to occur. It is not likely that DC goes high enough in level to bother the shields signals. The problem is AC power cables near signal cables that “could” be a problem (signal cables meaning patch cables, guitar cables), but with the low currents on the pedal board, the magnetic fields from the AC cords should not be a problem. That is easy to test by taking the AC power cable from the pedal board power supply and lay it next to signal cables on the pedal board. Try different locations and see if there is any hum as a result.
I’ve just purchased the 1Spot CS7, I have 10 pedals that I want to power with only 1 going above 100ma, how would I power all of these pedals with the CS7? What’s a splitter cable and would this work to power my pedals? Thanks :)
Thanks for your message, Riley! If the total available power requirement for your pedals doesn't exceed the total output of the CS7, it's possible. Keep in mind that as soon as you split a power tap, you split the amperage to each pedal. You also increase the likelihood of noise since each pedal on the split is no longer isolated from the other. You also can't mix 9v with 12v or 18v. Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them! Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
Thanks for your question Adam, hope you’re well and safe. Your PB1000 is a great surface to mount your pedals. Please use every connection on the Pedal Power before anything else. That power supply is isolated and grounded with sufficient voltage and amperage for about any pedal available. It will make your rig much quieter overall than the power available on the Behringer board. Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them! Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
Thanks for the video! Was wondering if ai should separate a power cable (24V) that connects my Strymon Zuma and Oja from pedals and audio cables? Or it’s not so bad as the regular AC so don’t have to worry if that cable (24v) is close to the pedal? Thanks
Thanks for your question, MK. As I read your question, you’re concerned with the power connection between the Zuma and Ojai creating interference with the audio path? One cable is unlikely to create an issue. Best practices is to run cables separately, cleanly and not parallel. Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them! Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
Great Stuff: But all I wanna know is Can a strymon Zuma or Ojai power an Electro Harmonix Mel 9 as it’s 9v+ without any problems ? .. any advice would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻🌞⭐️
I spray it in any place where there's a connection if I suspect a problem.Foot switches usually need to be unscrewed for this if you want to use cleaner on it.
i recently got the onespot cs12 power supply not realizing it has one output that uses 9v ac i dont know of any pedals that use ac is there any info on what pedals use ac
Ok so I have a hall of fame 2 reverb pedal that I bought as a store demo from guitar center. Whenever I turn it on it muffles the volume coming from my guitar/rig, so this deox d5 stuff will clean that up?? I have 2 pedal boards, and I would love to get the hall of fame working again seeing as I already have 2 reverb pedals, 1 for each board. I really don’t want to go out and get another reverb pedal
Nice tips Rig Doctor! I'm using the dual lock on my current pedalboard but it doesn't stick very well on pedals with all rubber bottoms like BOSS pedals. Are there metal only replacement plates you can put on the pedals instead of a factory rubber base? Any other tips? Thanks!
HEADSTOCK HAREM There are two options. Option one is buying a plate to go over the bottom, many plastic stores here in the United States, like TAP plastics will do this for you to order very inexpensively. However, my preference is to remove the rubberized bottom on the BOSS pedals, and then flip it over there removing the screws in simply inverting the metal plate it’s on the bottom of each device. It will leave you a completely clean surface to apply Velcro to.
Take the rubber bottom off, (don't have to be thorough), then screw the metal plates backwards. Done. If you want to put the rubber bottom back, you can use regular glue.
Maybe I'm quite a new follower of The Rig Doctor, but I just don't understand why he gets so many hates. Let's single out this video. It's a very informative video. I've watched thousands of pedalboard videos, but still this one gives me some new beneficial information about building rigs and pedalboards. So, thank you Mason!
kenminerva, they're referencing a product that I sold from about 2012 to 2014 called the Axis Wah. They may or may not be aware that every customer and dealership that ever owned an Axis Wah was provided a full refund, rebate, or exchange according to their desired restitution. In fact, we still leave the door open to any owner of the product that was previously unaware of refund options and keep a public record of all Axis Wah refunds on our website for anyone to view since 2014: www.vertexeffects.com/redemption . The Axis Wah is not representative of my values, nor our company values. We've worked tirelessly since 2014 to make a new impression and continue to maintain a high standard of quality and customer service with transparency around each product and its origins with full transparency. All we can do is release the best sounding products possible and give our customers the best possible quality and support in hopes that with time we'll earn back their trust. Sincerely, Mason Marangella
@Greg Elchert I can't change what happened. I made an incredibly stupid decision, and have dealt with the consequences and made right with those that purchased the product on their terms with whatever restitution they requested to make them whole again, and moreover, learn from my mistake. I'm not sure how a better outcome could have been produced for those impacted other than never having sold the product in the first place, which was an impossibility at that point. In our lives, we will, most certainly, if we haven't already, encounter people (knowingly or unknowingly), and purchase products from brands (knowingly or unknowingly), that have made varying degrees of poor judgement calls, bad decisions, and/or exhibited unethical or immoral behavior. People are humans, businesses are run by humans, invariably human fallibility will occur. This occurs in huge companies - like Apple, creating working conditions that lead to waves of employee suicides, to Nike, employing child labor in overseas factories, to Volkswagen, selling vehicles as "low emissions" that didn't meet the "Green criteria," forging their test results. This also occurs in small companies like mine, and in individuals we may have a personal relationship with at this very moment. Perhaps you're aware of all this, and have made a conscious choice to not purchase from companies like Apple, Nike, VW, Vertex, etc. or befriend any individuals that have had some past transgressions. That is your right. My contention, however, is that if the litmus test for one being condemned to working at McDonalds (as you mentioned above) as a consequence for bad moral/ethical judgement, McDonalds would have the most overflowing and steady workforce in the world. Wishing you the very best, Mason Marangella
Great advice. One mistake I made early on was using batteries to power my pedals. lets just say I found that out the hardway and have went AC power ever since then. it's the same now with my Korg RK100S2 keytar. and that thing eats 6 AA batteries for breakfast. I had to go AC power for it as well by purchasing an aftermarket adapter.
Yo, Rig Doctor. I just bought a moded Ibenez tube screamer, a Koko mini compressor (i know its a cheep pos), a Peterson strobostomp and a Dunlop cry baby...What order do you think i should chain them? Thanks
The inductor in the wah will be sensitive to the magnetic field produced by the transformer inside of your power supply. You could experiment with what happens when you move your wah and power supply to opposite sides of your pedalboard. If this isn't possible, you can try to find a mu-metal can to put over your wah inductor to help shield it from electro-magnetic fields produced by a linear analog supply like the T Rex.
Anyone have thoughts on the MXR M238 Iso-Brick? Seems to be a pretty good value for isolated power. Also need a few parts with higher mA things and it seems to have all that I need.
I've owned both and I prefer the zuma just because you have all of the 500ma outputs on it so you don't have to worry about where you plug in your pedals. They all have a looot of headroom to work with especially for my digital pedals like my h9 and digitech whammy
@@andybungert yeah definitely, if you need that 10th input and you're on a budget, definitely go for the mxr lol I got the zuma because I needed 14 outputs so I got the ojai along with it for more. Buy what you need!
Any ideas what’s wrong with my pedal, I used a one spot pedal supply, and I have my 9v chord going to my pedal, but if I even press on the chord that’s sitting in my pedals 9v input it’s sound completely cuts. But if I remove the chord from the power supply, and use a 9v power adapter plugged to the wall, and press on the chord going to the pedal now, it doesn’t cut out. If only seems to cut if I plug into the pedal from the one spot power supply. But it’s only this pedal that cuts if pressed on, not any of the other pedals. Any thoughts?
Most probably you have broken solder joint on power adaptor input. Just take soldering iron and renew soldering joint. Chances are good that you don't have to replace DC input, just to re-solder existing one.
I use a Voodoo lab mondo brick which has isolated ports and daisy chain 5 pedals that are all 9V, but they vary from center positive and negative polarities. I’ve heard that whatever the case is for the pedal, if plugged into an isolated power source, it’ll work fine. But since I have 5 pedals with different polarities all going to the same 9V isolated port, is that going to be a problem?
@@jonniefast yea I did lol Learned a lot since then, I had as many as 20 pedals on my cover band board all powered up with my Mondo brick and daisy chaining 3 or 5 while using the highest mA ports. Never had any issues!
@@XxStonedImmaculatexX my issue was with undervolting (9v instead of 10v etc) for years at a time - i finally lost a pedal bc of it it still "works" but is v finnicky and unreliable now
If you have an ES-8 (or other switcher where the jacks are stacked), good luck not using solderless. You certainly can't use right angle soldered patch cables unless you want them sticking straight up or something.
Switchcraft 380 is a good alternative sold here at Sweetwater that works great and is solderable. I personally use the SquarePlug SPS4 and SPS5 on switchers.
Good info here. I'm guessing the same vendor makes the Ernie Ball and MXR cables. Why is it so many rig rundowns I see though don't seem to follow the separate power and audio thing. Some, even from well known artists, are haphazard looking. Dual lock is awesome though. I hate the goo that velcro leaves on the pedals. Dual lock is easy to clean off if need be.
Scott C I’m not sure if it’s the same vendor or not, there seems to be some sort of labeling on the Ernie Ball versions, showing one side for guitar and one side for the device (pedal) input. Perhaps it’s twisted pair shielded? Perhaps it’s directional and has the shield connected on the output side only internally. You can run into some problems with AC power if not properly separated from the audio cables, but for the voltage and current for guitar pedals this will not be a problem. I think it’s a good practice to observe if you have the space to separate them, but they are going to be circumstances are areas where you’re going to cross paths with the DC and the audio path. I would be more concerned about where you dress your audio cables in relationship to, say a linear power supply.
Scott C - I have Hosa patch cables and they have same connectors. So maybe they make them and EB and MXR re-brand them? It wouldn’t surprise me. No need to reinvent the wheel.
@@Burnt_Gerbil impossible to know, correlation doesn't equal causation as the old saying goes. Those connectors are very common, made by Rapco/Horizon and GLS Audio in China. Many companies use them. The cable could be anything. You could take it apart and measure the capacitance and see how close they are in composition and spec. I've not seen any Hosa versions that have this same plug, typically the Hosa one is a little more flimsy, but I'm not an expert on their product line. Anything under about 20-30pf per foot in terms of capacitance I think will be acceptable for any pedalboard in a general since, especially if you use a quality buffer on the input and output of the system.
Vertex Effects Mason, thanks for the quick reply. More just observation on how janky it used to be, and still is. The video with Mitch and Eric Johnson was funny because he just had piece of plywood and the pedals were just taped down I think. He also seemed to have a mix of power and batteries. I agree with you though, the wrong noise isn’t a good time. Thanks again!
Strymon pedal switches (Capistan, Deco, Sunset) are 2.5" apart. My 3 Strymons are situated so that the right-footswitch of one is 2.5" apart from the left footswitch of the Strymon to its right. So all 6 footswitches are 2.5" apart from each other.....pointy shoes not necessary.
I use a small basic multi-effects pedal with 1 distortion stomp box & the only sounds I use from my multi-effects pedal is reverb, delay & wah! Also, the amp is a MAJOR component & the heavy ass Fender Twin Reverb is an AWESOME amp for R&B, Pop & Hip-Hop!!!
I always appreciate Mason’s help! Why are musicians so judgmental? We all make mistakes. I’ve made a ton! Thanks to Sweetwater for working with the Rig Doctor!
All the people trying to call out Mason all probably still have no problem using TC Electronics after what they did or still listen to known predators music😂 but i guess its uncool to care about that when its easier just to draw a line... Keep up the good work Mason, we cant change the past but your work on TH-cam has helped me in so many ways building my pride and joy pedalboard!
I have a question! Is it normal when I plug up my guitar with just the amp it sounds nice and clean but whenever I plug it up to pedalboard it gets dark. Why is that?
That’s called tone bleed. The longer your length of cable is, it will naturally lose tone and sound darker. The guy from jhs has a good video about capacitance and all that. If your pedals are true bypass, it’s basically like you’re running a really long cable through your pedals and everything. If you use a pedal with a buffer, like boss pedals, it can prevent tone loss. Some people start and end with buffered pedals. I have a boss tuner as my first pedal and a boss delay as my last. Running through pedals can cause problems like noise and tone loss so it’s important to have good cables connecting between pedals, good isolated power supplies, and a good routing with a mix of both buffered and true bypass pedals. Hope that helps!
A single buffered pedal should help that. Seriously, a Boss tuner would work. Either that or use shorter cables to keep under about 25' or swap to active pickups and run as long of a cable as you want. Nothing against the JHS buffer pedal, but all it's doing is taking up real estate when you could also have something like a tuner, chorus, flange, drive, delay, etc. also buffered and multitasking in that regard.
@@CharlesWillisBonsai lof of dick moves from this person in past and if you check his channel, lot of clickbaits with poor videos 🤷. Looks like he has great pedals though, but in these times with lots of superb pedal builders, I rather avoid this person.
I have found his channel to be exceptionally informative and with links that I sure wish I had a few years ago when I started building pedalboards. The other super informative guy with clear explanations of the origin of not only his designs but of others as well is Josh from JHS. he flat out will say it's a Muff variant, or Tonebender type or what have you.
@@tommasocatervi6617 well lot of things, selling gooped and relabeled products for 3x the price, lying about his education, using others pedal boards to promote as his, using existing circuits and promoting them as his brand new revolutionary design etc etc.
I’ve never put much thought into my pedal board. I simply use one power supply - daisy chain the pedals - into effects loop - Boss NS2 noise reduction for high gain amp - Then without thought or compassion towards others or regret - GRIP IT & RIP IT! I have a degree in music from WWTD university. WWTD = What Would Ted Do, as in Ted Nugent. On a serious note, Sweetwater is the best. I’ve gained a lot of understanding from these videos. I am a Sweetwater fan.
Music & More There will be some pedals that are not sensitive to being paralleled by a daisy chain. However, you might be surprised how much you can get away with, removing the noise gate and using a high-quality isolated power supply. It might make for an interesting experiment, and Sweetwater has such a great return policy you can pretty much do so risk free.
deoxit 5 is legit folks. I have a marshall 9100 dual mono power amp and it benefits greatly for cleaning the volume and presence knobs. yes this is an ad, but deoxit is one of those things that 'works'
This section comment is just sad. This guy apologized for his mistakes years ago, pay back what he owed. There is even an open letter in his vextex website and still most of these sour “keyboard warriors” missed the point. The guy is sharing information of what he does for a living Jesus Christ, he shouldn’t have to but he is willing to give back. Most of other skill individuals won’t share what they know, is risky. But keep judging people behind your keyboards you John Mayer wannabes, keep throwing all your “moral advices” on TH-cam like if could go through life without making mistakes. You learn by your mistakes and this guy did, now is time for you behind the keyboard/pretending to be special, to grow the f up. Geez . Thanks Sweetwater for this informative video.
This should be called "9 company's that will give me money if I mention them". All I learned was "don't do crazy routing". Thanks for the tip Mr. Sales Doctor.
Agreed. "Don't use solderless, because Sweetwater sells this other stuff." I'm over here looking at my Evidence SIS thinking "I dunno. These were good enough for Pink Floyd, I think I'll be fine."
@@KlockoFett Sweetwater sells solderless. My recommendation is based on what's the best quality and will have the most longevity. David Gilmour uses the Evidence Lyric HG - a soldered cable, with a Neutrik 1/4" connector, not the SIS. Also, professionals aren't immune from making bad gear choices. I've seen few to zero technicians on the road with acts like David Gilmour using solderless cables for the exact reason that I mentioned in this video.
Great advice from the Rig Doctor! Get more tips and tricks like these by hitting like and subscribe!
How does this guy get air time ???
Thumbs down and unsubscribed. Why give someone caught lying over and over a platform to promote himself?
Is there going to be a part 2 for pedal prep? Removing the stickers, etc? Arrangement? Great video, well spoken dude.
sucks that sweetwater still suppots this fraud
If I close my eyes and listen to this video, I can see the yellow bird from Angry Birds doing this video
hahahah!
Bruuuh
Omggg
😂😂😂😂😂
Chuck
I bought a piece of wood and some velcro, ten minutes later I had a finished pedalboard!
Was looking at the prices of some of these pedalboards out there. Pretty insane. Might just go to home depot and do exactly this.
Bamboo dude. Bamboo.
I’m gonna do the same bro. Pedalboards are too expensive
Add a pack of rechargeable 9v batteries 👍🏾
@@Matt_bechillin Rechargeable, yes.
Very useful and informative video, thanks for posting. I'll be applying these ideas to further refine my trumpet-based pedalboard.
Very great advice, my man! One thing I might add for beginners, like myself, is that you don't have to buy name brand velcro made specifically for guitars if you don't want to. Walmart sells industrial grade velcro that I have used before for different things and it is easily as good as the name brand stuff that these guys talk about, and most likely cheaper too. I understand though that they're salesmen and they want you to buy their stuff, free market and capitalism and all that.
I think he said "don't use your mom and dad's velcro." Because it's probably from Wal-Mart. XD
Velcro sucks. You've obviously never tried Dual Lock.
Is it cheaper than industrial velcro? If not, than I'll stick with my velcro, thanks
@@thepipejunkie8359 No, it's not cheaper; it's way BETTER. Pedals stay right where you put them. You get what you pay for. That's kind of how the free market works. And it's just a roll or two of Dual Lock. It's not like you have to finance it for 15 years.
When you're a sole provider for a family of 3, you kinda have to use whatever you can afford. I'm glad you're so passionate about Dual Lock though, you keep doing you, bro
Very helpful, since I’m in the process of building a fresh board! Thank you for taking the time to make this!
Shannon Jones my pleasure! ~Rig Dr.
I don't like Velcro on my effects pedals at all... so I got a piece of used rubber belt material that was big enough, and I cut the pedal spaces into it for my pedalboard (similar to the Boss BCB-60, but with rubber belt material instead of "foam rubber"). I'm happy with the results I got from doing this... all 48+ pedals stay where they are supposed to, and there's no Velcro trying to rip the bottoms off of my pedals. Some pedals HAVE TO have the label on the bottom intact or they become basically worthless and not even pawn shops will take them. I don't plan to sell my pedals, but I also don't want to destroy their value.
Phil McKnight showed that you can cover the bottom of the pedal, particularly the label with painters tape and then the velcro will stick just fine, and the label is preserved. The only thing I've found it doesn't work well with is denelectro mini pedals, because the bottom is almost entirely textured rubber. For those, I just stick the velcro right on it. It's a plastic danelectro pedal....how much value is there to worry about? lol
Great advice. I'd also add to keep buffering strategy in mind as well. It's probably less important for two or three pedals, but once you start adding a lot of pedals, especially if true by-pass, and cabling, you may need a well placed buffer for capacitance purposes.
What's a buffer? That's a very general term.
Also: I've seen many unhappy musicians - when they put their pedals Too Close together. During a Live-gig: you need to either-wear pointy-toe-shoes, or be "super precise" when tapping a tempo or activating a pedal. Also increases the chance of stepping-on-a-pedal that you did not want activated, or changing settings by mistake.
Cowboy boots are great for this and nothing is more comfy than a pair of broken in cowboy boots!
Thanks Mr Schneeblay, really helps a lot
It was worth watching the first minute or so of this video to learn about Pedaltrain's online pedalboard planner. Thanks!
Those pancake jacks often don't work because pedal makers aren't thinking when they decide where the 9V input is going to go. I wrestle with this all the time because MXR, Catalinbread and others put it too close to the i/o jacks instead of up on the front of the pedal where it belongs, so not only will they not fit, it also makes it difficult to deal with the proximity effect. Sometimes they put all three jacks on the front, again, too close together.
ohhhh..... thank you i was about to buy the pancake one.... thanks to you i realized it won't fit on my mini pedal.
What kind of jacks do you use for the closest fit?
Thanks for making this video Sweetwater! I think this will be very helpful now that many of us have a bit more time on our hands and want to make some tweaks to our pedalboards.
Thanks very much for the information. The cabling information is especially helpful, as I am building a new rig for the first time in years.
That's awesome! Stoked to hear you liked the video!
Fantastic advice I have a drop pedal that gives consistant buzzing I think I will try a different power supply I been trying everything to fix my problem.
On my iso brick, all of my pedals sounds sound about 50% less powerful than plug directly without the brick. Fuzz, Friedman OD, delay just sound very weak? Is it my cabling? They all sound fine with an single power supply. Any suggestions?
Hey, mmasterdp. Thanks for reaching out! The biggest things to make sure you have are good cabling and the proper amount of power going to your pedals. Each pedal draws a certain amount of amperage, usually milliamps (mA). So, you will want to make sure you have enough mA going to each pedal from your isobrick. Each power out will show you how much each pedal has to draw from and you should be good to go. If the isobrick is possibly defective then you will need to reach out to wherever you purchased the unit from to see if there is a warranty.
I hope this info helps, but let us know if you have any more questions. Good luck!
Jack Wellington, Sweetwater Sale Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 3240, jack_wellington@sweetwater.com
Good tips for cables. I just took all of my pedals off of two boards that I made from wood. 19 pedals... I want to sell this pile and just go rack mount for everything but I don't have the money. I need to make a 3 shelf pedalboard or something because I want my favorite 20 pedals on one board
Just purchased the Voodoo ISO-5, Question: This power supply has one input for 12V 300mA, I have 2 pedals that require that much power can I daisy chain the two pedals into that input?
Hi, Rowland! Thanks for your message, hope you're well and safe.
If each pedal requires 300mA, then the split won't work. The output is halved when you connect two pedals. You also no longer have the pedals isolated since they share the same tap.
Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them!
Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
If I want to have in, out, send and return jacks mounted on my pedalboard, is there any advantage on using locking jacks? I see many brands using them, and even though they look very professional, I feel that they might be worse than regular jacks since if something happens and the cable is pulled from them, it will just handle all the stress instead of going out of the jack
Do you use a guitar instrument cable to go from the pedal board to amp ?
Yes
Today i'm just using two pedals, compressor and reverb, whats your best advice for minimalist like me? Do i need pedalboard, Isolated power supply etc ? Todays i'm using 9V batteries for both of my pedals, do i need iso power? and adding extra carry gear?
I find that 9v batteries can get expensive with multiple pedals. you could use a daisy chain power supply (amazon for ~$10USD) assuming both pedals have the same polarity (usually center negative)
Khalazia Faqih Batteries are sort of like the original isolated power supply, so you won’t get much in terms of reducing noise. One really good device that I didn’t mention on here that is very well priced, it’s a Voodoo Lab X4 - it’s $79.99. It has four isolated outputs and you can use any 12 V wall wart to feed into the input and it’s super small, light weight and can tuck under just about any Pedalboard. The only real advantage would be that you wouldn’t have to change the 9 V battery devices every so many gigs. Or you can watch the video with RJ Ronquillo, where I made him a battery power supply box so he could have the batteries external to the products for easy changes but all housed in a nice enclosure.
@@VertexEffectsInc ok got it
@@untitleduser666 ive tried daisy chain before, they quiet noisy compare to batteries, but i'll try with another power supply
Get a truetone power supply, works great
Great pro tips here. You are absolutely spot on with all your recommendations.
Mason what do you recommend as instrument cable? I’m using Van Damme at the moment. I want as true a signal as possible hitting my board and amp!! Many thanks.
Van Damme is good, I like Mogami 2524, Belden 9778, Gepco X Band, and Canare G6.
Vertex Effects Vertex Effects Thanks a million for replying. I’m gonna check out the Mogami.
A problem I run into is going from my last pedal on the lower tier to the first of the upper or rear one.the input always seems to be opposite of the out on the previous lower pedal and I end up using a longer patch than what is ideal.Is a custom cable my only answer? Also will pedals ever become uniform with inputs on top or the side becoming standard? I think I like top input - output the best.
I ran into this same problem, from what I can tell you need a custom one or a specific size like the Ernie ball ones he mentioned, I have yet to check those out
Is the MXR DC Brick M237 an isolated power supply?
Hi, Gary! Thanks for your message, hope you're well and safe.
The M237 Brick is not an isolated power supply. The M238 ISO brick and M239 Mini ISO brick are isolated.
Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them!
Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
I have both a wireless and an active bass so from your other videos it appears I don’t need an input buffer. Is there any reason I can’t place my wireless on my pedalboard, run it straight into my effects, and only have one cable going back to my amp. Thanks for the education. I will see what I can do for further support.
Hi, Slim! Thanks for your message, hope you’re well and safe.
Some wireless systems don’t play well with active electronics so you have to test the signal chain. In theory, yes you could feed the output of the receiver into your first pedal. If your amp has a loop, you can run your pedals there and have the wireless go into the amp input. Yes, two cables however it may be more favorable sonically.
Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them!
Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
Referencing the 3M… Which I use, however, zip ties work, pretty good!
i have broken millions of zip ties and wouldnt recommend lol
hundreds/thousands worth of pedals/cables but cant spend $10 on velcro? ok
Great information. My pedalboard lights blink when they are all plugged in. But when I disconnect one the blinking stops. Do you know what’s causing this?
do you put the power under/near drives or digital to have less noise as possible?
I think AC means audio cable here? Or are audio cables also utilizing AC current?
Evan Keal What do you mean? AC would be like the power coming out of the wall into your amplifier, or your power supply. DC would be the outputs coming out of the power supply going to the respective devices.
@@VertexEffectsInc ok I get that but he is holding a patch cable when he says AC. I know even the DC power supplies have one AC cable, but I think he is referring to audio cables when he says. Ac, this is a board video, not a rig video, maybe I listen to literally. Not many people need to route AC power cables through the board, which is the scope here.
@@evankeal Audio signals are alternating current (micro-current) signals, audio signals have positive and negative voltage transitions at varying frequencies. The signal that comes out of your guitar pickup is an alternating positive/negative signal at the fundamental frequency of the note(s) being played along with tonal harmonics of the fundamental frequency, these are in effect AC voltages, typically in the range of milli-volt or sub milli-volt levels. What you want to remember is that if a power supply cable has to cross an instrument cable between pedals, try to make the intersection of the two cables at right angles to each other for the least amount of induced hum or noise.
both audio and AC power coming out of wall outlets are AC voltage signals
@@rebel-yell9453 The only issue with DC crossing AC is if the DC also has noise on it. High frequency, clock noise, etc. But it has to be at high enough level to occur. It is not likely that DC goes high enough in level to bother the shields signals. The problem is AC power cables near signal cables that “could” be a problem (signal cables meaning patch cables, guitar cables), but with the low currents on the pedal board, the magnetic fields from the AC cords should not be a problem. That is easy to test by taking the AC power cable from the pedal board power supply and lay it next to signal cables on the pedal board. Try different locations and see if there is any hum as a result.
I’ve just purchased the 1Spot CS7, I have 10 pedals that I want to power with only 1 going above 100ma, how would I power all of these pedals with the CS7? What’s a splitter cable and would this work to power my pedals? Thanks :)
Thanks for your message, Riley! If the total available power requirement for your pedals doesn't exceed the total output of the CS7, it's possible. Keep in mind that as soon as you split a power tap, you split the amperage to each pedal. You also increase the likelihood of noise since each pedal on the split is no longer isolated from the other. You also can't mix 9v with 12v or 18v.
Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them!
Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
Cool ! gonna order the connection cleaner :)
Any tips on removing that 3m velcro ?
I just peel a corner with my fingernail and work from there and I usually get it off relatively easy.
I bought from Sweetwater a Voodoo Lab Pedal Power Mondo how would I connect this to my PB1000 Beringer Pedal Boat with 12 pedals, or did I need this?
Thanks for your question Adam, hope you’re well and safe.
Your PB1000 is a great surface to mount your pedals. Please use every connection on the Pedal Power before anything else. That power supply is isolated and grounded with sufficient voltage and amperage for about any pedal available. It will make your rig much quieter overall than the power available on the Behringer board.
Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them!
Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
You speak very well Mason. Excellent presentation skills. Great video 👏🏼
Thanks for the video!
Was wondering if ai should separate a power cable (24V) that connects my Strymon Zuma and Oja from pedals and audio cables?
Or it’s not so bad as the regular AC so don’t have to worry if that cable (24v) is close to the pedal?
Thanks
Thanks for your question, MK. As I read your question, you’re concerned with the power connection between the Zuma and Ojai creating interference with the audio path? One cable is unlikely to create an issue. Best practices is to run cables separately, cleanly and not parallel.
Please contact us direct with other questions as you have them!
Robert Williams, Senior Sweetwater Sales Engineer, (800) 222-4700 ext. 2371, robert_williams@sweetwater.com
@@sweetwater thank you for the answer!
Great Stuff: But all I wanna know is Can a strymon Zuma or Ojai power an Electro Harmonix Mel 9 as it’s 9v+ without any problems ? .. any advice would be greatly appreciated 👍🏻🌞⭐️
Do you do dual lock to dual lock or dual lock to traditional Velcro?
Do you spray deoxit into the foot switch too?
I spray it in any place where there's a connection if I suspect a problem.Foot switches usually need to be unscrewed for this if you want to use cleaner on it.
Can you use just 2 Vodoo labs next to each other of you have way more than 8 pedals.?
i recently got the onespot cs12 power supply not realizing it has one output that uses 9v ac i dont know of any pedals that use ac is there any info on what pedals use ac
Extremely helpful and informative! Thanks for sharing this.
STIRK STIRKLAND heck yea!
Ok so I have a hall of fame 2 reverb pedal that I bought as a store demo from guitar center. Whenever I turn it on it muffles the volume coming from my guitar/rig, so this deox d5 stuff will clean that up?? I have 2 pedal boards, and I would love to get the hall of fame working again seeing as I already have 2 reverb pedals, 1 for each board. I really don’t want to go out and get another reverb pedal
Hello sir.....is it possible to power any pedal of any brand (supposed to power boss OD2 and MXR delay)with a same pedal power supply
Nice tips Rig Doctor! I'm using the dual lock on my current pedalboard but it doesn't stick very well on pedals with all rubber bottoms like BOSS pedals. Are there metal only replacement plates you can put on the pedals instead of a factory rubber base? Any other tips? Thanks!
HEADSTOCK HAREM There are two options. Option one is buying a plate to go over the bottom, many plastic stores here in the United States, like TAP plastics will do this for you to order very inexpensively. However, my preference is to remove the rubberized bottom on the BOSS pedals, and then flip it over there removing the screws in simply inverting the metal plate it’s on the bottom of each device. It will leave you a completely clean surface to apply Velcro to.
Take the rubber bottom off, (don't have to be thorough), then screw the metal plates backwards. Done. If you want to put the rubber bottom back, you can use regular glue.
Check out the Guitto Velcroless Pedalboard and you’ll be amazed!
Maybe I'm quite a new follower of The Rig Doctor, but I just don't understand why he gets so many hates. Let's single out this video. It's a very informative video. I've watched thousands of pedalboard videos, but still this one gives me some new beneficial information about building rigs and pedalboards. So, thank you Mason!
kenminerva, they're referencing a product that I sold from about 2012 to 2014 called the Axis Wah. They may or may not be aware that every customer and dealership that ever owned an Axis Wah was provided a full refund, rebate, or exchange according to their desired restitution. In fact, we still leave the door open to any owner of the product that was previously unaware of refund options and keep a public record of all Axis Wah refunds on our website for anyone to view since 2014: www.vertexeffects.com/redemption . The Axis Wah is not representative of my values, nor our company values. We've worked tirelessly since 2014 to make a new impression and continue to maintain a high standard of quality and customer service with transparency around each product and its origins with full transparency. All we can do is release the best sounding products possible and give our customers the best possible quality and support in hopes that with time we'll earn back their trust. Sincerely, Mason Marangella
@Greg Elchert I can't change what happened. I made an incredibly stupid decision, and have dealt with the consequences and made right with those that purchased the product on their terms with whatever restitution they requested to make them whole again, and moreover, learn from my mistake. I'm not sure how a better outcome could have been produced for those impacted other than never having sold the product in the first place, which was an impossibility at that point. In our lives, we will, most certainly, if we haven't already, encounter people (knowingly or unknowingly), and purchase products from brands (knowingly or unknowingly), that have made varying degrees of poor judgement calls, bad decisions, and/or exhibited unethical or immoral behavior. People are humans, businesses are run by humans, invariably human fallibility will occur. This occurs in huge companies - like Apple, creating working conditions that lead to waves of employee suicides, to Nike, employing child labor in overseas factories, to Volkswagen, selling vehicles as "low emissions" that didn't meet the "Green criteria," forging their test results. This also occurs in small companies like mine, and in individuals we may have a personal relationship with at this very moment. Perhaps you're aware of all this, and have made a conscious choice to not purchase from companies like Apple, Nike, VW, Vertex, etc. or befriend any individuals that have had some past transgressions. That is your right. My contention, however, is that if the litmus test for one being condemned to working at McDonalds (as you mentioned above) as a consequence for bad moral/ethical judgement, McDonalds would have the most overflowing and steady workforce in the world. Wishing you the very best, Mason Marangella
Keep it rollin, Mason
Patrick Carroll 🥳🥳🥳
Great advice. One mistake I made early on was using batteries to power my pedals. lets just say I found that out the hardway and have went AC power ever since then. it's the same now with my Korg RK100S2 keytar. and that thing eats 6 AA batteries for breakfast. I had to go AC power for it as well by purchasing an aftermarket adapter.
What are your thoughts on the Eventide Powermax by Cioks?
Good, but I prefer the switching supplies like the Strymon and Truetone. Cioks now makes a switching supply, but it's not sold at Sweetwater.
Vertex Effects awesome. Thanks for the info.
Yo, Rig Doctor. I just bought a moded Ibenez tube screamer, a Koko mini compressor (i know its a cheep pos), a Peterson strobostomp and a Dunlop cry baby...What order do you think i should chain them? Thanks
Hello.My Trex Fuel Tank has everything you need BUT it makes wah pedals sound very noisy!do you have any advice to prevent this?
The inductor in the wah will be sensitive to the magnetic field produced by the transformer inside of your power supply. You could experiment with what happens when you move your wah and power supply to opposite sides of your pedalboard. If this isn't possible, you can try to find a mu-metal can to put over your wah inductor to help shield it from electro-magnetic fields produced by a linear analog supply like the T Rex.
This video undermines Sweetwaters credability by having this guy on.
Anyone have thoughts on the MXR M238 Iso-Brick? Seems to be a pretty good value for isolated power. Also need a few parts with higher mA things and it seems to have all that I need.
Andy Bungert they’re also good. Switching supplies like the Truetone and Strymon.
I've owned both and I prefer the zuma just because you have all of the 500ma outputs on it so you don't have to worry about where you plug in your pedals. They all have a looot of headroom to work with especially for my digital pedals like my h9 and digitech whammy
@@mrpres17 okay and it does have a couple that can switch to 18v. Sweet. That 10th input on the MXR though ;)
@@mrpres17 oh holy crap it's "expandable" with more units? Dang that's something to consider
@@andybungert yeah definitely, if you need that 10th input and you're on a budget, definitely go for the mxr lol I got the zuma because I needed 14 outputs so I got the ojai along with it for more. Buy what you need!
Any ideas what’s wrong with my pedal, I used a one spot pedal supply, and I have my 9v chord going to my pedal, but if I even press on the chord that’s sitting in my pedals 9v input it’s sound completely cuts. But if I remove the chord from the power supply, and use a 9v power adapter plugged to the wall, and press on the chord going to the pedal now, it doesn’t cut out. If only seems to cut if I plug into the pedal from the one spot power supply. But it’s only this pedal that cuts if pressed on, not any of the other pedals. Any thoughts?
Most probably you have broken solder joint on power adaptor input. Just take soldering iron and renew soldering joint. Chances are good that you don't have to replace DC input, just to re-solder existing one.
I use a Voodoo lab mondo brick which has isolated ports and daisy chain 5 pedals that are all 9V, but they vary from center positive and negative polarities.
I’ve heard that whatever the case is for the pedal, if plugged into an isolated power source, it’ll work fine.
But since I have 5 pedals with different polarities all going to the same 9V isolated port, is that going to be a problem?
the polarity obv matters
current draw as well
hope u figured it out 😅
@@jonniefast yea I did lol
Learned a lot since then, I had as many as 20 pedals on my cover band board all powered up with my Mondo brick and daisy chaining 3 or 5 while using the highest mA ports. Never had any issues!
@@XxStonedImmaculatexX my issue was with undervolting (9v instead of 10v etc) for years at a time - i finally lost a pedal bc of it
it still "works" but is v finnicky and unreliable now
@@jonniefast what pedals require 10v?
@@XxStonedImmaculatexX lots of them
the one i roasted is the electro harmonix cathedral reverb - i think it wants 9.7v
Bruce McCulloch was great on The Kids in the Hall!
I could not think of it but, I knew he looked like someone else.
Grr. I got a D'Addrio XPND board and it has carpet, so I can't do dual lock. Grrr.
man you guys just always knock it out of the park. great video
Gotta love this guy! Everything I’ve learned about pedals and pedalboards come from him, Andy Martin, Rhett Shull, and JHS!
Siavash Massoudi 🙏🙏🙏🙏
If you have an ES-8 (or other switcher where the jacks are stacked), good luck not using solderless. You certainly can't use right angle soldered patch cables unless you want them sticking straight up or something.
Switchcraft 380 is a good alternative sold here at Sweetwater that works great and is solderable. I personally use the SquarePlug SPS4 and SPS5 on switchers.
Good info here. I'm guessing the same vendor makes the Ernie Ball and MXR cables. Why is it so many rig rundowns I see though don't seem to follow the separate power and audio thing. Some, even from well known artists, are haphazard looking. Dual lock is awesome though. I hate the goo that velcro leaves on the pedals. Dual lock is easy to clean off if need be.
Scott C I’m not sure if it’s the same vendor or not, there seems to be some sort of labeling on the Ernie Ball versions, showing one side for guitar and one side for the device (pedal) input. Perhaps it’s twisted pair shielded? Perhaps it’s directional and has the shield connected on the output side only internally. You can run into some problems with AC power if not properly separated from the audio cables, but for the voltage and current for guitar pedals this will not be a problem. I think it’s a good practice to observe if you have the space to separate them, but they are going to be circumstances are areas where you’re going to cross paths with the DC and the audio path. I would be more concerned about where you dress your audio cables in relationship to, say a linear power supply.
Scott C - I have Hosa patch cables and they have same connectors. So maybe they make them and EB and MXR re-brand them? It wouldn’t surprise me. No need to reinvent the wheel.
@@Burnt_Gerbil impossible to know, correlation doesn't equal causation as the old saying goes. Those connectors are very common, made by Rapco/Horizon and GLS Audio in China. Many companies use them. The cable could be anything. You could take it apart and measure the capacitance and see how close they are in composition and spec. I've not seen any Hosa versions that have this same plug, typically the Hosa one is a little more flimsy, but I'm not an expert on their product line. Anything under about 20-30pf per foot in terms of capacitance I think will be acceptable for any pedalboard in a general since, especially if you use a quality buffer on the input and output of the system.
Vertex Effects Mason, thanks for the quick reply. More just observation on how janky it used to be, and still is. The video with Mitch and Eric Johnson was funny because he just had piece of plywood and the pedals were just taped down I think. He also seemed to have a mix of power and batteries. I agree with you though, the wrong noise isn’t a good time. Thanks again!
@@Burnt_Gerbil Yeah, indeed. Just merely observations, though. Not saying either is better or worse, both companies make good stuff.
Anyone make a pedalboard case or bag with wheels and a handle. My board weighs alot, and im 61 and its getting hard to sling
Very helpful! Thanks.
Strymon pedal switches (Capistan, Deco, Sunset) are 2.5" apart.
My 3 Strymons are situated so that the right-footswitch of one is 2.5" apart from the left footswitch of the Strymon to its right.
So all 6 footswitches are 2.5" apart from each other.....pointy shoes not necessary.
Deoxit is *literally* not a miracle; it's chemistry. Literally.
Great video mate. Namaste x
I use a small basic multi-effects pedal with 1 distortion stomp box & the only sounds I use from my multi-effects pedal is reverb, delay & wah! Also, the amp is a MAJOR component & the heavy ass Fender Twin Reverb is an AWESOME amp for R&B, Pop & Hip-Hop!!!
Jack Black does pedal boards. Great video, thanks.
I always appreciate Mason’s help! Why are musicians so judgmental? We all make mistakes. I’ve made a ton! Thanks to Sweetwater for working with the Rig Doctor!
great video, thanks!
All the people trying to call out Mason all probably still have no problem using TC Electronics after what they did or still listen to known predators music😂 but i guess its uncool to care about that when its easier just to draw a line... Keep up the good work Mason, we cant change the past but your work on TH-cam has helped me in so many ways building my pride and joy pedalboard!
What tc electronic did?
its best to google it and make up your own mind. personally i wont be using tc electronics anytime soon
@@RobertIsMusic they sold out to Behringer. However, Behringer has gotten really good, soooo….
I have a question! Is it normal when I plug up my guitar with just the amp it sounds nice and clean but whenever I plug it up to pedalboard it gets dark. Why is that?
you need a buffer, JHS pedals made a video about it
That’s called tone bleed. The longer your length of cable is, it will naturally lose tone and sound darker. The guy from jhs has a good video about capacitance and all that. If your pedals are true bypass, it’s basically like you’re running a really long cable through your pedals and everything. If you use a pedal with a buffer, like boss pedals, it can prevent tone loss. Some people start and end with buffered pedals. I have a boss tuner as my first pedal and a boss delay as my last. Running through pedals can cause problems like noise and tone loss so it’s important to have good cables connecting between pedals, good isolated power supplies, and a good routing with a mix of both buffered and true bypass pedals. Hope that helps!
A single buffered pedal should help that. Seriously, a Boss tuner would work. Either that or use shorter cables to keep under about 25' or swap to active pickups and run as long of a cable as you want. Nothing against the JHS buffer pedal, but all it's doing is taking up real estate when you could also have something like a tuner, chorus, flange, drive, delay, etc. also buffered and multitasking in that regard.
No love for the Cioks DC-7?
Interesting how this dude make his way into spotlight with his history ...
I was about to say, this is that dude that was using BBE wah PCBs and upcharging extravagantly. Shady
@@CharlesWillisBonsai lof of dick moves from this person in past and if you check his channel, lot of clickbaits with poor videos 🤷. Looks like he has great pedals though, but in these times with lots of superb pedal builders, I rather avoid this person.
I have found his channel to be exceptionally informative and with links that I sure wish I had a few years ago when I started building pedalboards. The other super informative guy with clear explanations of the origin of not only his designs but of others as well is Josh from JHS. he flat out will say it's a Muff variant, or Tonebender type or what have you.
What did he do? 😲
@@tommasocatervi6617 well lot of things, selling gooped and relabeled products for 3x the price, lying about his education, using others pedal boards to promote as his, using existing circuits and promoting them as his brand new revolutionary design etc etc.
DUAL LOCK!!!! Great stuff, you'll never go back to Velcro again :-)
true indeed!
I’ve never put much thought into my pedal board. I simply use one power supply - daisy chain the pedals - into effects loop - Boss NS2 noise reduction for high gain amp - Then without thought or compassion towards others or regret - GRIP IT & RIP IT! I have a degree in music from WWTD university. WWTD = What Would Ted Do, as in Ted Nugent. On a serious note, Sweetwater is the best. I’ve gained a lot of understanding from these videos. I am a Sweetwater fan.
Music & More There will be some pedals that are not sensitive to being paralleled by a daisy chain. However, you might be surprised how much you can get away with, removing the noise gate and using a high-quality isolated power supply. It might make for an interesting experiment, and Sweetwater has such a great return policy you can pretty much do so risk free.
Thank you!
I love it when one of his tips from three years ago also makes an appearance in his myths video. Seems just beyond legit to me.
Which tip?
Who mixed this?
@6:41 That's what she said 😈 haha love this guy, glad Sweetwater manage to snag him to do a quick tutorial, good stuff right here 🤙
Great info
This was great!
Ayyye, that Deoxit is a _eureka_ product. Thanks 👍🏻👍🏽
Kodiak Wild best and cheapest way to clean and protect your pedals!
Watching this video is the best 9 minutes I ever spent on pedalboards.
Damn. Wish I would have referenced the section of this video about solderless patch cables before I went and spent $100 on George Ls. 😣
Gator pedal boards come with some really strong velcro too
deoxit 5 is legit folks. I have a marshall 9100 dual mono power amp and it benefits greatly for cleaning the volume and presence knobs. yes this is an ad, but deoxit is one of those things that 'works'
Great video!
Great stuff go sweetwater
It's nice to see that Lenny Pepperbottom from Neature walk got into music
This section comment is just sad. This guy apologized for his mistakes years ago, pay back what he owed. There is even an open letter in his vextex website and still most of these sour “keyboard warriors” missed the point. The guy is sharing information of what he does for a living Jesus Christ, he shouldn’t have to but he is willing to give back. Most of other skill individuals won’t share what they know, is risky. But keep judging people behind your keyboards you John Mayer wannabes, keep throwing all your “moral advices” on TH-cam like if could go through life without making mistakes. You learn by your mistakes and this guy did, now is time for you behind the keyboard/pretending to be special, to grow the f up. Geez . Thanks Sweetwater for this informative video.
wait what mistakes? spill the tea
@@ilanrodriguez7698 if you go to the Vertex effects website, you’ll see an open letter.
Love this guy
Anyone familiar with Gator Cases Power 8 ?
Very informative
Ambarish Roul 🙏🙏🙏
Mason makes great videos on his channel! Thanks for making this!
🙏🙏🙏
Rig Doctor you're the BEST!!!
@Greg Elchert What do you mean "he's a fraud." ?
@Greg Elchert Oh okay I see. Good to know thanks for the info.
This should be called "9 company's that will give me money if I mention them". All I learned was "don't do crazy routing". Thanks for the tip Mr. Sales Doctor.
Feels like Mr. Scheebly is teaching us the Pedalboard 101
The best source for pedals is the Brazilian LANDSCAP ISO POWER
Good job, Rig Doctor!!
albertplaysguitar 🙏🙏🙏
How do you turn off the power supply? It's not in the manual, its not on Google, its not on any TH-cam videos.
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I have just spent 8 minutes watching a bloody advert , grrrr
Change your web browser to the Brave browser and NEVER watch another ad again.
Mick Denny did you not find any of these tips useful?
@@VertexEffectsInc If these didn't find any of this useful, I do
Agreed. "Don't use solderless, because Sweetwater sells this other stuff." I'm over here looking at my Evidence SIS thinking "I dunno. These were good enough for Pink Floyd, I think I'll be fine."
@@KlockoFett Sweetwater sells solderless. My recommendation is based on what's the best quality and will have the most longevity. David Gilmour uses the Evidence Lyric HG - a soldered cable, with a Neutrik 1/4" connector, not the SIS. Also, professionals aren't immune from making bad gear choices. I've seen few to zero technicians on the road with acts like David Gilmour using solderless cables for the exact reason that I mentioned in this video.