you completely dumped on the most important aspect of pedal choice: the color of the pedals. if the pedals are not the correct colors everything will sound horrible.
This pedal board is NOT inexpensive. $$ 500 +/- is NOT cheap. Their are tons iof FANTASTIC CHINESE....mini pedals Around......$$ 50 +/- ......Not $ 100 per. Powe supplies aound $ 30+/- bucks. Two distortions ? Not cheap. Reverb ? Always in the effects loop. One good analog delay with modulation. One distortion. One compression. One of either Tremelo Flanger Auto wah Chorus (stereo) To split to TWO small amps. For REAL STEREO ROOM EFFECTS. An EQ and a Volume pedal Before everything... Two small boards can cover 90% of sll of this really cheap And insanely good sounding. Much less than $$ 500 bucks Or more for the same thing.
@@lorenzo6mmat what point do they claim that the example board is inexpensive? They use their own pedals (and heavy sarcasm) to represent generic pedals and how to use them. They specifically spend time on cheaper alternatives.
Since the day I started following the JHS channel, I've always appreciated Josh's candor about his vs other designers' pedals. It's as if he's letting you know that you already have the pedal(s) you need before you run out and buy his. No. No "as if." He does point out that you probably already have the OG pedal that we all need. And you did! All the while, he makes you rupture you spleen laughing at his comedy. The Universe loves you, Josh.
Power supply should be looked at as nothing more than having enough mA to power the pedals. A 1Spot supplies 1700 mA. A tube screamer draws 8mA. So a simple 1Spot daisy chain can power 212 tube screamers. Most analog effects, and even simple digital ones like a DD-3T for example, have low enough mA draw that, if that's all you have on your board, you do no need a dedicated power supply like a Zuma or a Cioks. You just don't, and the notion that you need a unit like that for a board consisting of a few overdrives, a fuzz, a chorus and a delay is a triumph of marketing over reality. And power supplies will rarely help with noise issues so don't go into it expecting that either. Where you need a serious power supply is when you have several high draw digital pedals like Strymons on the board. Those types of pedals draw hundreds of mA and you end up maxing out a 1Spot quickly when you get into that stuff. People are led to believe that high quality dedicated power supplies are an essential part of any board and it simply isn't the case. I agree with Josh on future proofing. That's never a bad thing, but again it's just a matter of making sure you have enough power long term.
@@pCeLobster The issue that Josh spoke about with 1Spots is that the daisy chain introduces noise that may be prevalent in one power connection, to the others. Yes, a Cioks may be OTT for many beginner pedal boards, BUT, as Josh alluded to, it can be used again on other pedal boards when you upgrade. A clean isolated power supply is the foundation of a happy, noise free, pedal board. VoodooLabs ISO 5 is good for this level of pedalboard too.
If you're in the UK/Europe, the Harley Benton modular power supplies from Thomann are amazing value, properly isolated, and built like tanks. Highly recommended.
I believe you are right. I recently bought a Harley Benton PowerPlant ISO-3AC SAG Modular with adjustable voltages for a small board and I have zero complaints.
Josh also something people overlook, I personally use one, a Computer UPS, basically its a power buffer meant for computers that acts similar to a surge protector but also has batteries that also act like capacitors, the cool thing is, they clean up and filter power, which not only would clean the pedal sound up a bit from dirty electricity, but its also protects those valuable pedals from damage from surges and such. Once you try this you will never go back.
If I may, Uninterruptable Power Supplies convert AC to DC, which also charges the battery, and then DC back into AC. The batteries are not really caps where caps are meant to condition DC or filter AC. The monitored side of the UPS is a digitally conditioned AC signal completely independent of the input side... Ground bonding notwithstanding.
@@thyreapermc5948 Yes and no - Depends on your UPS and there is a difference cheaper ones with smaller batteries work as you say, but they still filter power as PSUs in Computer equipment tends to be picky, its an advantage of using one in a gaming setup that really doesn't need the shut off protection, as alot of dirty power outlets with ripple tend to cause blue screens especially when drawing high wattage for a CPU or GPU, and people think there is something wrong with their hardware when there really isn't and you just need a buffer because of a bad circuit. A higher end UPS you draw from the battery as the battery is charged, which is why batteries after so many years need to be changed from degraded performance, thus it acts as a filter, its why you can swap out the batteries and they act as an intermediary between expensive amps and pedals from the ground circuit and also have in built surge protectors . . . . So in a way you are correct, but wrong in the overall conclusion, even if its a cheaper one I would still use it to protect expensive gear, people use them to protect 10's of thousands of rack unit servers my gpu is worth more than almost all your guitars(and I mean all) and that is not an exaggeration a high end consumer GPU for gaming is worth more than most guitars at about $2k-2.5k, just for a GPU, My storage alone of SSds and HDDs is worth more than any gear MSRP than 95% of you will ever own, once again not an exaggeration, I have expensive Guitar and musician gear from the 60's on, Its always protected by UPS systems for computers, I have zero worries and whether Computer IT people see it they always laugh and say that is hilarious but yeah it works, UPS systems aren't only for Power outages they also serve to protect sensitive equipment.
@@nocturnal101ravenous6 You seem all over the place. I use UPSs for all my big $ electronic needs because it isolates from all issues and I can shut down safely. Let the power flicker ;) But capacitors aren't the special sauce, it's that it's a Rectifier to Inverter circuit acting as a digital isolation, and it's the DC-link where capacitors are used to filter harmonics & also where batteries charge from. Remove the battery & yes, it's a filtered surge supressor that goes out with the power. But the AC signal out is 100% digitally isolated from the input side via SCRs, not capacitor filtered as the link. It sounds like you're discussing early 2000 UPSs with the way you went cheap and what not. Mentioning VAs might help more.
Hi, I am a beginner guitarist from Brazil, been playing guitar for almost 2 years by now, and I wanted to say that I enjoy this type of content. I have a $60 strat, no pedals or amps so I have to play with pc plugins (pirated) and I always have to use presets made by other people because I have no idea how to build a pedal chain, a pedalboard, how to achieve certain sound, anything like that I don't have an amp to test it out easily nor pedals, and they would be expensive as hell here (if you are american, imagine a boss katana 50 costing 4000 dollars, yeah, it's unacessible as hell) That's why I enjoy this type of content, I want to be able to build a good pedalboard on plugins and stuff, to know how a good tone it's made I play with this preset but I don't know how it's built, I know there's basically an amp, distortion, reverb and noise gate, but the tone is so powerful and good, I tried to recreate but I couldn't even get close to it
there are a ton of cheap 30$ pedals out there that are decent! Just buy a few of them, patch cables, daisy chains (yes i know they are not as good as a power supply but they will get the job done). I recommend a heavy distortion, reverb, and vibrato, since that combo will give you the signature 'lofi-gaze' sound that is all the rage with bands like Julie and Arches. put them in which ever order sounds the best!
@@pietroborgesparri don't spend money on boss, buy behringer, donner, azor, movall, etc. they are all usually less than 50$. Joyo pedals are around 75-95$, but they usually have more features. Behringer are exact clones of boss pedals, but they have plastic cases instead of metal ones. Azor pedals are some of the cheapest at 25$, but they are basic and only have two or three knobs, so not as many options to tweak the sound of the pedal, but they are good if you just need the basic sounds of a type of pedal (and they have metal casing!). Right now I have a pedal that can do modulated shimmer reverb (so i get a reverb effect, pitch shift effect, and modulated effect, all in one pedal!), vibrato, and a DOD gonkulator modulator clone. Those 3 pedals are all i need, and they are all less than 50$!
@@-jank-willson yeah I think the only brand we have here that you quoted is Behringer, I will look into it, I think my friend got a few of those But as I said, I'm working for it, if you are an american, to put it on your perspective, just imagine a behringer distortion costing $500, it's a shame
I bought a shelf from IKEA that was almost a ready made pedalboard. It has three slats with spaces in between to run your power cables through. Painted it black, put Velcro tape on it, and mounted two Voodoo Power plus 2 power supplies underneath. I reinforced it some with angle braces and put some rubber feet on the bottom. It’s not the sturdiest thing but for a bedroom set up it’s held up well.
Thanks for the shoutout @getoffset. Love how the two of you make the project and lesson more fun and entertaining. Nicely done, both of you! p.s. (to anyone who tries one) stick the Tiny Fuzz at the start of the chain for max growl. It really likes to load your pickups directly.
as a person with a boss-only pedalboard (i'm a fan boy i'm a fan boy wee) i literally did just that, too. i might be stupid. gotta do that to my pedals.
Yeah that's a revelation, I've been covering the back labels of my boss pedals with a little piece of cardboard from cereal boxes for some time now. Funny that this little trick didn't show up earlier with Josh's fandom for boss pedals 😄 thanks jhs👍
I’m not sure about that tip cuz when I did that with my ds2 years ago it doesn’t really fit well and for that my ds2’s broken. Pedal works when the plate flipped and it doesn’t work when I flipped back(stock). I don’t know I might did something wrong cuz I’m not a professional or maybe that tip is not for every boss pedals.
I recommend against doing this with some boss pedals as it puts unnecessary pressure on soldering points when the rubber presses hard against the circuit board.
@@GrandCaravel i think one needs to exercise caution when doing that. the majority of boss pedals have a lot of space between the cover and the circuit board. if you start tightening the screws and the rubber starts pressing against the board too much, just stop.
Register to win the JHS 3 Series Beginner's Pedalboard here. When you register, you will also receive an email from us containing a simple guide to building a beginner's pedal board! The giveaway has closed!
21:12 Rush time. Great video as always. Just starting to build my second, larger board. Need room for the NOTAKLON and shortly thereafter the Third Man Fuzz-A-Tron kit just because. Keep the vids coming!
I’m a musician who actually doesn’t really get into gear. I have one acoustic, one electric, and have been procrastinating on putting a pedalboard together forever. This was very helpful even though id rather be songwriting!
I can confirm that the Earthquaker Special Cranker is really good. It’s the only drive on my board. I’m running a Fuzz War, Special Cranker, June 60 chorus, and the 3 series delay and reverb.
I would have placed the reverb and delay pedals with a bit more distance to the others and both to the left of the board so that its possible to also connect cables going to the amp effect loop if available.
I built my first pedal board last year. It was basically a bunch of Behringer pedals on a cheap Ghost fire pedal board with a cheap Donner power supply and cables. I've had a blast with it, no issues. I've changed and added a few pedals since though!
I just think it’s should be said- if you do a clip tuner, remember to turn the volume down on your guitar when you tune, the clip tuner will still work, and you won’t annoy your bandmates.
Cool! I went acoustic and stopped playing electric guitars on the early ‘70’s, before pedals were popular. When I picked them up again about 10 years ago I had to start figuring pedals out from scratch. I wish this video had been available then!
Don’t know why I watch these. I play acoustic exclusively and run straight into the board with a touch of reverb at the front of house. Yet, I just love these videos.
Don't go solderless, get the patch cable kit from runway audio, I bought the 20ft cable with plugs for 10 cables and completely wired 9 pedals together with some cables over a foot and one about 2ft or more to connect rows which also could be used for the effects loop and had enough cable left over for about an 8ft cord for the other side of the effects loop. Was about $60, way better than $25 per 6in cable. You could spend $200-$300 on just cables or learn to solder and save a ton
As a designer, I love the minimalist look on those pedals, even though i might be hard to remember which is which on stage, if you have multiple like that. I would definitely want to build this pedal board if my finances arent in shambles. If I get a gig soon maybe! Loving those patch cables as well.
Only halfway through and this has already been so helpful. Especially the power supply stuff telling us straight up what works and what doesn't (CRAZY that they just have an internal daisy chain and call it isolated). Thank you so much!
Heads up on the power supply is when you get a brick (isolated brick) watch out for the milliamp draw. I have two pedals on my main board that exceed the 100 milliamp draw that the bricks do. So I have to use two small wall warts in addition to the 13 (8 spot brick and a 5 spot brick) for the board. So I still have 2 more (13 pedals, 11 pedals through the bricks) potential options. That said my main board is pretty full, so I might get two micro pedals however I have pretty much covers all the types of music I play. Also buy zip ties and anchors and use those under the board to manage the wires. Basically you gather the wires and zip ties and anchor all the wires so that they are REALLY out of the way.😉👍✨
I am a synthesist that doesn't currently play live. So I did a rack mount pedal board. I have a 19 inch rack with an angled spot on top. On the angled spot I put two 1U panels with a 1U space in between. I added velcro across the blank panels. It fits my pedals great and the 1U empty space gets my Hosa pancake cables out of the way. Since my board is on my rack, I don't need to figure out where to put it. It's a convenient location to reach for tweaking settings. Since I use it with various synths I end up having to tweak the settings to match the synth. Especially with my Mooer A7 ambient reverb. Depending on what I am doing I may be live tweaking the pedal. For example switching the reverb to fully wet and back. Since I use sequencers it gives me free hands to live tweak the settings. If you have a free hand or someone else's hand, try tweaking pedal settings as you play. I have been thinking about modding my cheap pedals to add control voltage inputs for the pots so I can have my modular synth tweak the settings for me. I am probably going to use vactrols since they are an easy option.
I've got two Caline CP-205s powering my board, and they're honestly great, it might not be "true" isolation, but they're damm quiet and don't introduce any noise to my signal path. So yeah they're worth it. Caline is really solid, never had a bad experience with any of their pedals.
I really enjoy this JHS pedal channel. I appreciate the humor and positive approach. Entertaining and great information about “why” and what subtle differences there are. I always enjoy these videos.
Loved the trick to flip the Boss backplates before sticking the velcro to them. Not sure if anyone else does this, but I use 3" wide painters tape to cover the back of my pedals, then slap some dollar store velcro on tape. Seems to work well for my needs and doesn't damage or cover them in sticky perma-goo.
First let me say thanks for all of the great reviews and information. I need help, I'm building a pedal board with the following pedals and I need to rethink what order the signal chain should be. I will be using this with a retubed (Ruby and JJ's) Blackstar HT20R Mkii amp with a Vintage 30 Speaker in my home studio. Pedals are: Big Muff with Wicker, TS808, Joyo Taichi, Boss CH-1 Chorus, Boss CS3 Comp/Sustain, Mooer Reeecho Delay, Joyo Atmosphere, Flamma Mod, Sonicake Volume Wah, Sonicake 10 Band EQ, Joyo Legal Done Noise Gate, TC PolyTune 3 Mini Tuner. Thanks for your help.
I'm a pretty new to guitar and I have started to acquire some pedals over the past year. The best pedal I ever purchased way a fuzz. ITS MY FAVORITE PEDAL
Just discovered JHS pedals, and this channel. Can absolutely say 100% I love this guy. He is my speed and we would probably be best friends in another life
Velcro Painter's Tape (Masking Tape?) Scissors Tape Measure (and Ruler) Patch Cables - Ernie Ball Isolated Power Supply - Voodoo Lab/Strymon (Don't buy IPS under $100.00) Pedalboard - Mono Guitar Pedals Overdrive Distortion Modulation (Chorus) Delay/Echo Reverb (Include Fuzz pedal if you want) Plus the most important part: The genius of Mr. Josh Scott and his crew (behind the scenes) including the cinematographer ❤ Thank you JHS! ALWAYS AWESOME!
something I was looking for in this video, that I may have missed, was an explanation of best practices for pedal order. here's what I know if you are looking for it as well. 1) signal chain direction. I used to run my pedalboard signal chain left to right, until I learned the standard direction is right to left, and most pedal manufacturers design their pedals to receive signal from the right and output to the left. for a small board this doesnt matter but starts to get crowded the more pedals you have. 2) signal chain order by pedal type. theres no one right way to do it, but general best practice goes: tuner wah / whammy / EQ / compressor / volume / octave distortion / overdrive / fuzz modulation - flanger / chorus / tremolo delay / looper / reverb last two categories can also go through the effects loop on your amp if it has that feature hope this helps someone, I did not know either of these things when I built my first pedalboard and had to rebuild it a few times by trial and error, which taught me a lot through experimentation
If there was an Academy Awards show for TH-cam channels, @JHSPedals would be bringing home an Emmy for these videos. Top tier production and a comedic value that is unmatched. ❤
Well, I just built my first pedal board and all mistakes considered I think it's okay... alright, so I may need to rethink the signal chain - maybe, and I use a tuner pedal... but at least my velcro is the right way around... even if I use a 1Spot... I plead ignorance on the power supply thing! (ahem) anyhow, thanks Josh. And keep using your Minolta CLE.
I've already built a pedal board, but I'm on the hunt for MOAR PEDALS so I can rebuild my current setup, and I've always struggled with mounting Boss pedals because of their super fancy rubber back. NEVER heard of someone flipping the back around so the velcro has a more solid surface. GENIUS!
Good stuff. I went for a cheap Power Supply (Harley Benton) that I made sure was isolated. I wanted to be able to induce sag into my fuzz so its one that allows me to do that. I prefer pretty limited pedals on my board... fuzz, wah, maybe a reverb, and a boost. All I need. A simple man.
Great video! I'd offer this advice to beginners though- If you're building a pedalboard, don't be afraid to use a 1spot while you're acquiring pedals. It can be an expensive process and the 1spot is like $35. So, my recommendation is to get your pedals, or the essential ones first, and then buy something that provides isolated power.
Josh - great video, and a subject that needs the attention sans BS! One thing I noticed is the power supply power cable could easily get kicked and broken by the fact it's sticking out. Recessing the power supply 1/2" - 3/4" would resolve and leave only the cable to be trod upon.
Amazing timing. Ive been rediscovering my love for guitar after putting it on hiatus due to work and life. One thing i never explored was pedals, and i have been researching like mad the past few days. This video couldnt come at a better time! I even picked up one of my first pedals earlier today; the Bonsai!
How about these new powerbank style batteries for guitar pedals which can power several pedals via centre negative cables? There's a few different models, one I've seen branded Artist and there is a Harley Benton model too.
Such a helpful video. Never realized how much that one-spot was messing with the noise. I got that voodoo lab power supply ordered yesterday. Can’t wait to get it set up. Thanks!
I am in the process of putting together a board with my first store-bought pedal board ( Pedaltrain Classic 1 SC). A few days ago I decided to put the fuzzy velcro on the frame (not the pedals). Thank you for confirming my decision.
I had a boss pedal stop working during a gig. It's the only pedal that has ever done that to me. The Malekko 616 acted flaky once, so I swapped it out, but it still works today.
Awesome. This might be one of the most important videos of yours that I've watched. I got my first electric guitar last year, I got a Boss Katana amp shortly afterwards so I could muck around with sounds before I splash out on actual pedals. So far, the only pedal I've bought is the TU-3. I've been binging your videos for months because I want to get it right and not spend thousands on pedals I won't use. This is very helpful. Thank you!
I use the same Furman power conditioner in my pedalboard that I use for my home studio setup. Great power iso and conditioning, as well as a built-in battery in case you suddenly lose power. I'd love to see a video on building more complex pedalboards, such as with multiple levels, effects loops, channel switches, etc.
That’s awesome. It would still be nearly $1,000 and this is an “inexpensive” pedal board. I don’t use one. But I’ve been collecting pedals for 30yrs. Only recently have I committed to what I use. My big secret is I have a tighty whitey and a clover running in parallel and sometimes use a GE7 on the compressor side. I do want some modulation but can’t seem to commit.
I just noticed that book in the intro and I recently acquired it from my electrical engineer uncle, I had no idea it was in the intro before I just thought it would be a cool book to have and this just solidifies that thought.
Glad I watched this. As a beginner I now know some of the jargon of something I don't need. A fret board, I think I'll need one of those, not totally sure
Hey Josh, I have about 10 pedals on my board but couldnt justify paying over AU$400 for a big isolated power supply. I used a Fender Engine Room with 5x500mA isolated outputs. Daisy chained the dirt pedals together, digital pedals together, and needed a couple cabled singly because they were noisy when chained. That was a reasonable compromise
Hey JHS, i love your videos and dry humor. You clearly know what youre talking about and help me have more confidence. For a rock/country/blues style im thinking: Conspiracy Theory Overdrive, Analog Delay, Vibrato, and phase (my amp has great chorus and reverb)
I got an M-vave Pedal Power for $8 and to my surprise it's not noisy at all. At all. My pedals are: 1. Kokko tuner 2. Pogolab compressor 3. Hotone fuzz 4. Mosky Golden and Silver horse (klon) 5. Cuvave reverb 6. Ammoon looper
I have more Boss pedals than I can shake a stick at, and they are built like a Sherman tank. My 1980's Boss HM2 pedal is still working as good as it did the day I bought it.
5 pedal board; drive- Formula B Superplexi, because it’s also got a boost, in a not huge case. Distortion/fuzz- EQD Hizumitas (Hizumita is Japanese for Distortion) Controversy: I’m putting delay before chorus- Delay- Boss DD-? (They’re all good, but grab one with stereo out) Chorus/Flange- Digitech Nautila has stereo IN and out (that’s why you need stereo out on the delay) Reverb- Boss Stereo Reverb, again stereo in and out. Bonus- it doesn’t have to necessarily go on the board, but a wah pedal is a good thing to have first in the chain. Just test it with the fuzz as some vintage circuits are not fuzz friendly (unless you’re going for that screechy-squeaky tone).
The TC clip-on Polytune/Unitune are a good tip! They are not the cheapest but they work really well, it's basically the pedal as clip-on. I always have one in my guitar case.
A tip. Clip on tuners work best clipped to the volume/tone control knobs on electric guitars and on acoustic guitars' clip to the the inside edge of the sound hole. picks up the sound vibration better and will sustain longer and also makes it easier to see looking ⬇️ down. Then clip back on the headstock after tuning.
Welcome back guys! 😊 I've been trying pedals (including some of yours) and different setups on my pedalboard. At the moment i have 13 pedals (including tuner and looper switch) and they are all powered by daisy chain with a TrueTone OneSpot. I totally agree with Josh that isolated power supply is the best choice, but for my experience the quality of the pedal has an important role as well. Everytime I tried poor quality pedals I had some issues (background noise, buzzing, etc.). When I finally bought only pedals designed in USA or Europe (and maybe made somewhere else) every problem disappeared. And the daisychain is still there 😉
Hey, I missed you guys! I put together a board about a year ago, after watching similar videos. I won't remember all the names of everything, but here goes. Starting with a PedalTrain 2 row board through an MXR Power Brick. (Probably an "internal daisy chain" but the mini surge protector power strip seems to keep things quiet. Might upgrade) Lately, I'm starting with a Warm Audio "Fuzzy orange" tribute into a Special Cranker, then a Morely Wah. Then through the FX loop is a NUX pink analog delay, Small Stone phaze, and a 3-Series reverb. Small board, but it's what I'm using right now. Oh, Live Wire patch cords. I'm in a Stoner/Doom (In a Scissorfight with some Truckfighters!) rabbit hole right now, but I'd add my RAT & Warm Audio ODD, Tighty Whitey comp , Spark boost and DOD flanger for Rock and Metal.
I went with a Sanjune power supply. It wasn't "cheap" but not insane either. Has all the jacks and power options I need and hasn't caused any issues for years.
Hi Josh. I have basically binge watched your channel over the last few days like a fat kid in a candy store. I love your pacing, your dry humour, your nonchalantly presented fantastic musical skill and your willingness to share your immense knowledge. Could you possibly do an episode about Harley Benton pedals? They are massive in Germany's budget sector, and I think that there are at least some real bangers for what they cost. Some of them are Joyo Pedals. It would be interesting, which ones, and how good they are, and how good the others are in your eyes. Thanks a big lot, and warmest regards from Dortmund, Germany.
You've given me a great gift idea for each of my son's. Great video that could lead to future more intermediate or professional boards. Love your channel...
An important note on power supplies - most power supplies only take a 9v 100ma signal and digital pedals almost always exceed that which is why a power supply like the ojai is a good choice because the outlets are 9v 500ma to go with those digital strymon pedals
The giveaway has closed! Thanks so much for participating!
Used a couple of email addresses, but never received a pdf.
But... but... but... Did I win? 😜🤣😂
nooo I should've aspired to make a pedalboard 3 months ago 😭
What difference does it make which side of the velcro you put where? Is it so you can swap pedals at a gig with each other?
you completely dumped on the most important aspect of pedal choice: the color of the pedals. if the pedals are not the correct colors everything will sound horrible.
Warm colors = warm tone. Obviously.
well obviously bc most of their pedals are white. But I will say I really like their compressor pedal for the money
Bucket of black paint
Dip
Done
Toan is in the colour
That's true.
For "bedroom players" a looper pedal is a lot of fun! Thanks for the tutorial, I didn't know about the lineup, now I do!
Finally a new JHS video! For the last month and a half I seriously started to believe the universe is out of wack
it was, but no longer.
The world is batshit crazy out of wack but not getting into all of that lol.
I’m sure it had something to do with all those notaklon orders
This pedal board is NOT
inexpensive.
$$ 500 +/- is NOT cheap.
Their are tons iof FANTASTIC
CHINESE....mini pedals
Around......$$ 50 +/- ......Not $ 100 per.
Powe supplies aound $ 30+/- bucks.
Two distortions ? Not cheap.
Reverb ? Always in the effects loop.
One good analog delay with modulation.
One distortion.
One compression.
One of either
Tremelo
Flanger
Auto wah
Chorus (stereo)
To split to TWO small amps.
For REAL STEREO ROOM EFFECTS.
An EQ and a Volume pedal
Before everything...
Two small boards can cover
90% of sll of this really cheap
And insanely good sounding.
Much less than $$ 500 bucks
Or more for the same thing.
@@lorenzo6mmat what point do they claim that the example board is inexpensive?
They use their own pedals (and heavy sarcasm) to represent generic pedals and how to use them.
They specifically spend time on cheaper alternatives.
Flipping the BOSS plates upside down just blew my mind
Same I just spent 1/2 an hour removing a rubber stole with 90% rubbing alcohol.
Since the day I started following the JHS channel, I've always appreciated Josh's candor about his vs other designers' pedals. It's as if he's letting you know that you already have the pedal(s) you need before you run out and buy his. No. No "as if." He does point out that you probably already have the OG pedal that we all need. And you did! All the while, he makes you rupture you spleen laughing at his comedy.
The Universe loves you, Josh.
Power supply in-depth review will be much appreciated. It can become a real headache when a board is growing
Mxr mini iso brick is awesome
I'd suggest you include Cioks power units in a full on review. They have considerable mA power and flexible Voltage switches.
Power supply should be looked at as nothing more than having enough mA to power the pedals. A 1Spot supplies 1700 mA. A tube screamer draws 8mA. So a simple 1Spot daisy chain can power 212 tube screamers. Most analog effects, and even simple digital ones like a DD-3T for example, have low enough mA draw that, if that's all you have on your board, you do no need a dedicated power supply like a Zuma or a Cioks. You just don't, and the notion that you need a unit like that for a board consisting of a few overdrives, a fuzz, a chorus and a delay is a triumph of marketing over reality. And power supplies will rarely help with noise issues so don't go into it expecting that either.
Where you need a serious power supply is when you have several high draw digital pedals like Strymons on the board. Those types of pedals draw hundreds of mA and you end up maxing out a 1Spot quickly when you get into that stuff. People are led to believe that high quality dedicated power supplies are an essential part of any board and it simply isn't the case.
I agree with Josh on future proofing. That's never a bad thing, but again it's just a matter of making sure you have enough power long term.
I would agree with this. I’ve been using wall wart supplies with daisy chains because those are the only ones I understand…
@@pCeLobster The issue that Josh spoke about with 1Spots is that the daisy chain introduces noise that may be prevalent in one power connection, to the others. Yes, a Cioks may be OTT for many beginner pedal boards, BUT, as Josh alluded to, it can be used again on other pedal boards when you upgrade. A clean isolated power supply is the foundation of a happy, noise free, pedal board. VoodooLabs ISO 5 is good for this level of pedalboard too.
If you're in the UK/Europe, the Harley Benton modular power supplies from Thomann are amazing value, properly isolated, and built like tanks. Highly recommended.
I believe you are right. I recently bought a Harley Benton PowerPlant ISO-3AC SAG Modular with adjustable voltages for a small board and I have zero complaints.
3 Metalzones into a Korg Miku. Simple as.
Your using tone that the world is not yet prepared for
this tone will have catastrophic consequences for the future of mankind
That Miku $$ is becoming the new Klon $$$$$.
yeah I'd rather just piss all over my amp
You need at least 3 more metalzones and at least 1 attack decay
Josh also something people overlook, I personally use one, a Computer UPS, basically its a power buffer meant for computers that acts similar to a surge protector but also has batteries that also act like capacitors, the cool thing is, they clean up and filter power, which not only would clean the pedal sound up a bit from dirty electricity, but its also protects those valuable pedals from damage from surges and such. Once you try this you will never go back.
Shit, that's genius!
Thanks, man. Great solution! Bravo 👏
If I may, Uninterruptable Power Supplies convert AC to DC, which also charges the battery, and then DC back into AC.
The batteries are not really caps where caps are meant to condition DC or filter AC.
The monitored side of the UPS is a digitally conditioned AC signal completely independent of the input side... Ground bonding notwithstanding.
@@thyreapermc5948 Yes and no - Depends on your UPS and there is a difference cheaper ones with smaller batteries work as you say, but they still filter power as PSUs in Computer equipment tends to be picky, its an advantage of using one in a gaming setup that really doesn't need the shut off protection, as alot of dirty power outlets with ripple tend to cause blue screens especially when drawing high wattage for a CPU or GPU, and people think there is something wrong with their hardware when there really isn't and you just need a buffer because of a bad circuit.
A higher end UPS you draw from the battery as the battery is charged, which is why batteries after so many years need to be changed from degraded performance, thus it acts as a filter, its why you can swap out the batteries and they act as an intermediary between expensive amps and pedals from the ground circuit and also have in built surge protectors . . . .
So in a way you are correct, but wrong in the overall conclusion, even if its a cheaper one I would still use it to protect expensive gear, people use them to protect 10's of thousands of rack unit servers my gpu is worth more than almost all your guitars(and I mean all) and that is not an exaggeration a high end consumer GPU for gaming is worth more than most guitars at about $2k-2.5k, just for a GPU, My storage alone of SSds and HDDs is worth more than any gear MSRP than 95% of you will ever own, once again not an exaggeration, I have expensive Guitar and musician gear from the 60's on, Its always protected by UPS systems for computers, I have zero worries and whether Computer IT people see it they always laugh and say that is hilarious but yeah it works, UPS systems aren't only for Power outages they also serve to protect sensitive equipment.
@@nocturnal101ravenous6
You seem all over the place.
I use UPSs for all my big $ electronic needs because it isolates from all issues and I can shut down safely. Let the power flicker ;)
But capacitors aren't the special sauce, it's that it's a Rectifier to Inverter circuit acting as a digital isolation, and it's the DC-link where capacitors are used to filter harmonics & also where batteries charge from.
Remove the battery & yes, it's a filtered surge supressor that goes out with the power.
But the AC signal out is 100% digitally isolated from the input side via SCRs, not capacitor filtered as the link.
It sounds like you're discussing early 2000 UPSs with the way you went cheap and what not.
Mentioning VAs might help more.
Hi, I am a beginner guitarist from Brazil, been playing guitar for almost 2 years by now, and I wanted to say that I enjoy this type of content. I have a $60 strat, no pedals or amps so I have to play with pc plugins (pirated) and I always have to use presets made by other people because I have no idea how to build a pedal chain, a pedalboard, how to achieve certain sound, anything like that
I don't have an amp to test it out easily nor pedals, and they would be expensive as hell here (if you are american, imagine a boss katana 50 costing 4000 dollars, yeah, it's unacessible as hell)
That's why I enjoy this type of content, I want to be able to build a good pedalboard on plugins and stuff, to know how a good tone it's made
I play with this preset but I don't know how it's built, I know there's basically an amp, distortion, reverb and noise gate, but the tone is so powerful and good, I tried to recreate but I couldn't even get close to it
Remember that its fun to use gear but the better you sound clean the better you sound while under the effects
there are a ton of cheap 30$ pedals out there that are decent! Just buy a few of them, patch cables, daisy chains (yes i know they are not as good as a power supply but they will get the job done). I recommend a heavy distortion, reverb, and vibrato, since that combo will give you the signature 'lofi-gaze' sound that is all the rage with bands like Julie and Arches. put them in which ever order sounds the best!
@@-jank-willson yeah I'm working for it! A simple boss ds-2 it's literally half my salary, but it is a work in progress
@@pietroborgesparri don't spend money on boss, buy behringer, donner, azor, movall, etc. they are all usually less than 50$. Joyo pedals are around 75-95$, but they usually have more features. Behringer are exact clones of boss pedals, but they have plastic cases instead of metal ones. Azor pedals are some of the cheapest at 25$, but they are basic and only have two or three knobs, so not as many options to tweak the sound of the pedal, but they are good if you just need the basic sounds of a type of pedal (and they have metal casing!). Right now I have a pedal that can do modulated shimmer reverb (so i get a reverb effect, pitch shift effect, and modulated effect, all in one pedal!), vibrato, and a DOD gonkulator modulator clone. Those 3 pedals are all i need, and they are all less than 50$!
@@-jank-willson yeah I think the only brand we have here that you quoted is Behringer, I will look into it, I think my friend got a few of those
But as I said, I'm working for it, if you are an american, to put it on your perspective, just imagine a behringer distortion costing $500, it's a shame
and OMG the boss pedal turn-the-back-plate-upside-down tip is the best thing ever thank you so much!
I bought a shelf from IKEA that was almost a ready made pedalboard. It has three slats with spaces in between to run your power cables through. Painted it black, put Velcro tape on it, and mounted two Voodoo Power plus 2 power supplies underneath. I reinforced it some with angle braces and put some rubber feet on the bottom. It’s not the sturdiest thing but for a bedroom set up it’s held up well.
Amazing, do you have a link to the shelf?
The shelf name is GORM. If you Google IKEA shelf pedalboard you can find some info.
proof? lol
@@AnotherSnoopy How about you use the phone you used to make this comment and Google it?
@@chadromney It's called Hejne.
I have built boards a long time but watching Josh build this made me want to tear mine apart and start fresh !!!!
Ok so flipping the rubber part of the boss pedal is something I wish I knew 20 years ago. Dang it!! That is so good
Thanks for the shoutout @getoffset. Love how the two of you make the project and lesson more fun and entertaining. Nicely done, both of you! p.s. (to anyone who tries one) stick the Tiny Fuzz at the start of the chain for max growl. It really likes to load your pickups directly.
I’ve built hundreds of pedalboards over the years and I used this video to make my travel pedalboard 🤘
I literally smacked my forehead when I saw your Boss backplate tip! Had no idea you could do that.
as a person with a boss-only pedalboard (i'm a fan boy i'm a fan boy wee) i literally did just that, too. i might be stupid. gotta do that to my pedals.
Yeah that's a revelation, I've been covering the back labels of my boss pedals with a little piece of cardboard from cereal boxes for some time now. Funny that this little trick didn't show up earlier with Josh's fandom for boss pedals 😄 thanks jhs👍
I’m not sure about that tip cuz when I did that with my ds2 years ago it doesn’t really fit well and for that my ds2’s broken. Pedal works when the plate flipped and it doesn’t work when I flipped back(stock). I don’t know I might did something wrong cuz I’m not a professional or maybe that tip is not for every boss pedals.
I recommend against doing this with some boss pedals as it puts unnecessary pressure on soldering points when the rubber presses hard against the circuit board.
@@GrandCaravel i think one needs to exercise caution when doing that. the majority of boss pedals have a lot of space between the cover and the circuit board. if you start tightening the screws and the rubber starts pressing against the board too much, just stop.
Register to win the JHS 3 Series Beginner's Pedalboard here. When you register, you will also receive an email from us containing a simple guide to building a beginner's pedal board!
The giveaway has closed!
New guy, old guy that’s been around since Patton was a private. 😂really enjoy your videos.
Yeah, too long!
😊Awesome dude😊!!
Josh, Does the pedal Rig ( because it's a Rig now) go into the front of the amp or effects loop ??
21:12 Rush time. Great video as always. Just starting to build my second, larger board. Need room for the NOTAKLON and shortly thereafter the Third Man Fuzz-A-Tron kit just because. Keep the vids coming!
I recently started my pedal journey and this is already my favorite TH-cam channel. Videos are gold and everyone who is on is hilarious
Been using a Truetone 1Spot Pro CS7 for past three years now with great results. Great power supply.
Thanks Josh. I found keeping a power conditioner on hand helps with noise in different rooms.
I’m a musician who actually doesn’t really get into gear. I have one acoustic, one electric, and have been procrastinating on putting a pedalboard together forever. This was very helpful even though id rather be songwriting!
I can confirm that the Earthquaker Special Cranker is really good. It’s the only drive on my board. I’m running a Fuzz War, Special Cranker, June 60 chorus, and the 3 series delay and reverb.
Thanks for the chance to win! Great to see GetOffset too. 🤜⚡️🤛
I put the fuzzy part on the bottom of my pedals and I'm PROUD of it!
I would have placed the reverb and delay pedals with a bit more distance to the others and both to the left of the board so that its possible to also connect cables going to the amp effect loop if available.
I think you should do a 90s beginners pedal board next. I need to know what to pair with my DOD Grunge and Peavy Bandit.
I built my first pedal board last year. It was basically a bunch of Behringer pedals on a cheap Ghost fire pedal board with a cheap Donner power supply and cables. I've had a blast with it, no issues. I've changed and added a few pedals since though!
I just think it’s should be said- if you do a clip tuner, remember to turn the volume down on your guitar when you tune, the clip tuner will still work, and you won’t annoy your bandmates.
Cool! I went acoustic and stopped playing electric guitars on the early ‘70’s, before pedals were popular. When I picked them up again about 10 years ago I had to start figuring pedals out from scratch. I wish this video had been available then!
Don’t know why I watch these. I play acoustic exclusively and run straight into the board with a touch of reverb at the front of house. Yet, I just love these videos.
Don't go solderless, get the patch cable kit from runway audio, I bought the 20ft cable with plugs for 10 cables and completely wired 9 pedals together with some cables over a foot and one about 2ft or more to connect rows which also could be used for the effects loop and had enough cable left over for about an 8ft cord for the other side of the effects loop. Was about $60, way better than $25 per 6in cable. You could spend $200-$300 on just cables or learn to solder and save a ton
As a designer, I love the minimalist look on those pedals, even though i might be hard to remember which is which on stage, if you have multiple like that.
I would definitely want to build this pedal board if my finances arent in shambles. If I get a gig soon maybe! Loving those patch cables as well.
Awesome timing on this! just about to build my first full board. Used mostly multi-effects pedals in the past.
Only halfway through and this has already been so helpful. Especially the power supply stuff telling us straight up what works and what doesn't (CRAZY that they just have an internal daisy chain and call it isolated). Thank you so much!
Heads up on the power supply is when you get a brick (isolated brick) watch out for the milliamp draw. I have two pedals on my main board that exceed the 100 milliamp draw that the bricks do. So I have to use two small wall warts in addition to the 13 (8 spot brick and a 5 spot brick) for the board. So I still have 2 more (13 pedals, 11 pedals through the bricks) potential options. That said my main board is pretty full, so I might get two micro pedals however I have pretty much covers all the types of music I play.
Also buy zip ties and anchors and use those under the board to manage the wires. Basically you gather the wires and zip ties and anchor all the wires so that they are REALLY out of the way.😉👍✨
I am a synthesist that doesn't currently play live. So I did a rack mount pedal board. I have a 19 inch rack with an angled spot on top. On the angled spot I put two 1U panels with a 1U space in between. I added velcro across the blank panels. It fits my pedals great and the 1U empty space gets my Hosa pancake cables out of the way. Since my board is on my rack, I don't need to figure out where to put it. It's a convenient location to reach for tweaking settings. Since I use it with various synths I end up having to tweak the settings to match the synth. Especially with my Mooer A7 ambient reverb. Depending on what I am doing I may be live tweaking the pedal. For example switching the reverb to fully wet and back. Since I use sequencers it gives me free hands to live tweak the settings. If you have a free hand or someone else's hand, try tweaking pedal settings as you play. I have been thinking about modding my cheap pedals to add control voltage inputs for the pots so I can have my modular synth tweak the settings for me. I am probably going to use vactrols since they are an easy option.
20:16 yeah this is all you need you say, between you and that pedal show i have 14 pedals on my board and 2wah pedals on the side if i need them
Turning the Boss pedal plate backwards is the best tip ever! Never heard that before in probably 100 videos I’ve seen. 👊😎
I've got two Caline CP-205s powering my board, and they're honestly great, it might not be "true" isolation, but they're damm quiet and don't introduce any noise to my signal path. So yeah they're worth it. Caline is really solid, never had a bad experience with any of their pedals.
I really enjoy this JHS pedal channel. I appreciate the humor and positive approach. Entertaining and great information about “why” and what subtle differences there are. I always enjoy these videos.
Is there an explanation for not sticking the fuzzy side of the velcro on the pedal ?
Loved the trick to flip the Boss backplates before sticking the velcro to them. Not sure if anyone else does this, but I use 3" wide painters tape to cover the back of my pedals, then slap some dollar store velcro on tape. Seems to work well for my needs and doesn't damage or cover them in sticky perma-goo.
First let me say thanks for all of the great reviews and information. I need help, I'm building a pedal board with the following pedals and I need to rethink what order the signal chain should be. I will be using this with a retubed (Ruby and JJ's) Blackstar HT20R Mkii amp with a Vintage 30 Speaker in my home studio.
Pedals are: Big Muff with Wicker, TS808, Joyo Taichi, Boss CH-1 Chorus, Boss CS3 Comp/Sustain, Mooer Reeecho Delay, Joyo Atmosphere, Flamma Mod, Sonicake Volume Wah, Sonicake 10 Band EQ, Joyo Legal Done Noise Gate, TC PolyTune 3 Mini Tuner. Thanks for your help.
I'm a pretty new to guitar and I have started to acquire some pedals over the past year. The best pedal I ever purchased way a fuzz. ITS MY FAVORITE PEDAL
So glad you’re all back 😊
Yes, for the Ernie Ball cables. I use them exclusively!!! I like how you minimize the use of Velcro on both the pedals and the board.
Just discovered JHS pedals, and this channel. Can absolutely say 100% I love this guy. He is my speed and we would probably be best friends in another life
thank you!!! 🙏🏼
Velcro
Painter's Tape (Masking Tape?)
Scissors
Tape Measure (and Ruler)
Patch Cables - Ernie Ball
Isolated Power Supply - Voodoo Lab/Strymon (Don't buy IPS under $100.00)
Pedalboard - Mono
Guitar Pedals
Overdrive
Distortion
Modulation (Chorus)
Delay/Echo
Reverb
(Include Fuzz pedal if you want)
Plus the most important part:
The genius of Mr. Josh Scott and his crew (behind the scenes) including the cinematographer ❤
Thank you JHS! ALWAYS AWESOME!
The one spot is fine for me! I run a bass board with five pedals, three are always on and a fourth I hit for distortion. Works great!
velcro is a brand, the product is called hook and loop. i had this drilled into my head working in a sweat shop that manufactures powerlifting gear.
something I was looking for in this video, that I may have missed, was an explanation of best practices for pedal order. here's what I know if you are looking for it as well.
1) signal chain direction. I used to run my pedalboard signal chain left to right, until I learned the standard direction is right to left, and most pedal manufacturers design their pedals to receive signal from the right and output to the left. for a small board this doesnt matter but starts to get crowded the more pedals you have.
2) signal chain order by pedal type. theres no one right way to do it, but general best practice goes:
tuner
wah / whammy / EQ / compressor / volume / octave
distortion / overdrive / fuzz
modulation - flanger / chorus / tremolo
delay / looper / reverb
last two categories can also go through the effects loop on your amp if it has that feature
hope this helps someone, I did not know either of these things when I built my first pedalboard and had to rebuild it a few times by trial and error, which taught me a lot through experimentation
If there was an Academy Awards show for TH-cam channels, @JHSPedals would be bringing home an Emmy for these videos. Top tier production and a comedic value that is unmatched. ❤
I have been running a bd2 and ds1w recently and been loving it
Well, I just built my first pedal board and all mistakes considered I think it's okay... alright, so I may need to rethink the signal chain - maybe, and I use a tuner pedal... but at least my velcro is the right way around... even if I use a 1Spot... I plead ignorance on the power supply thing! (ahem) anyhow, thanks Josh. And keep using your Minolta CLE.
I've already built a pedal board, but I'm on the hunt for MOAR PEDALS so I can rebuild my current setup, and I've always struggled with mounting Boss pedals because of their super fancy rubber back. NEVER heard of someone flipping the back around so the velcro has a more solid surface. GENIUS!
Finally! Where you beeeen
kansas city, mostly.
i wuz wurreed! (not really)
@@jhspedals Hopefully working on Notaklön pedals for those of us who have been waiting SINCE NOVEMBER cough cough.
@@jhspedals Are you all ever gonna have a 'jhs 2 series' of small, 2-knob mini pedals that cost around 30$ for us broke high school/college kids?
Cioks is another great brand for iso power…and its sleek, and every output is adjustable
Thoroughly enjoyed this video. Looking forward to a video about power supplies.
Good stuff. I went for a cheap Power Supply (Harley Benton) that I made sure was isolated. I wanted to be able to induce sag into my fuzz so its one that allows me to do that. I prefer pretty limited pedals on my board... fuzz, wah, maybe a reverb, and a boost. All I need. A simple man.
Great video! I'd offer this advice to beginners though- If you're building a pedalboard, don't be afraid to use a 1spot while you're acquiring pedals. It can be an expensive process and the 1spot is like $35. So, my recommendation is to get your pedals, or the essential ones first, and then buy something that provides isolated power.
Josh - great video, and a subject that needs the attention sans BS! One thing I noticed is the power supply power cable could easily get kicked and broken by the fact it's sticking out. Recessing the power supply 1/2" - 3/4" would resolve and leave only the cable to be trod upon.
it would be great to see a 5 minute addendum discussing 5 starter pedals for bass. Loved the whole walkthrough of the process!
Amazing timing. Ive been rediscovering my love for guitar after putting it on hiatus due to work and life. One thing i never explored was pedals, and i have been researching like mad the past few days. This video couldnt come at a better time! I even picked up one of my first pedals earlier today; the Bonsai!
How about these new powerbank style batteries for guitar pedals which can power several pedals via centre negative cables?
There's a few different models, one I've seen branded Artist and there is a Harley Benton model too.
This is like the only guy on TH-cam that I trust w pedal advice
Such a helpful video. Never realized how much that one-spot was messing with the noise. I got that voodoo lab power supply ordered yesterday. Can’t wait to get it set up. Thanks!
Practical and helpful advice when I needed it the most. Thanks JHS
Since the day I first started watching the JHS Show, I have appreciated Josh's candor on his elbows and his feet fat.
I am in the process of putting together a board with my first store-bought pedal board ( Pedaltrain Classic 1 SC). A few days ago I decided to put the fuzzy velcro on the frame (not the pedals). Thank you for confirming my decision.
I had a boss pedal stop working during a gig. It's the only pedal that has ever done that to me. The Malekko 616 acted flaky once, so I swapped it out, but it still works today.
Awesome. This might be one of the most important videos of yours that I've watched. I got my first electric guitar last year, I got a Boss Katana amp shortly afterwards so I could muck around with sounds before I splash out on actual pedals. So far, the only pedal I've bought is the TU-3. I've been binging your videos for months because I want to get it right and not spend thousands on pedals I won't use. This is very helpful. Thank you!
And yes I have absolutely registered to try and win the pedals... That would be a very cool way to start my pedal collection...
Favourite patch cables are from EBS. Durable, no issue with sound, most low profile type available.
I use the same Furman power conditioner in my pedalboard that I use for my home studio setup. Great power iso and conditioning, as well as a built-in battery in case you suddenly lose power.
I'd love to see a video on building more complex pedalboards, such as with multiple levels, effects loops, channel switches, etc.
That’s awesome. It would still be nearly $1,000 and this is an “inexpensive” pedal board. I don’t use one. But I’ve been collecting pedals for 30yrs. Only recently have I committed to what I use.
My big secret is I have a tighty whitey and a clover running in parallel and sometimes use a GE7 on the compressor side. I do want some modulation but can’t seem to commit.
I just noticed that book in the intro and I recently acquired it from my electrical engineer uncle, I had no idea it was in the intro before I just thought it would be a cool book to have and this just solidifies that thought.
Glad I watched this. As a beginner I now know some of the jargon of something I don't need. A fret board, I think I'll need one of those, not totally sure
what is the reasoning behind placement of the hooked velcro on the board?
Hey Josh, I have about 10 pedals on my board but couldnt justify paying over AU$400 for a big isolated power supply. I used a Fender Engine Room with 5x500mA isolated outputs. Daisy chained the dirt pedals together, digital pedals together, and needed a couple cabled singly because they were noisy when chained. That was a reasonable compromise
Hey JHS, i love your videos and dry humor. You clearly know what youre talking about and help me have more confidence. For a rock/country/blues style im thinking:
Conspiracy Theory Overdrive, Analog Delay, Vibrato, and phase (my amp has great chorus and reverb)
I got an M-vave Pedal Power for $8 and to my surprise it's not noisy at all. At all. My pedals are:
1. Kokko tuner
2. Pogolab compressor
3. Hotone fuzz
4. Mosky Golden and Silver horse (klon)
5. Cuvave reverb
6. Ammoon looper
I have more Boss pedals than I can shake a stick at, and they are built like a Sherman tank.
My 1980's Boss HM2 pedal is still working as good as it did the day I bought it.
5 pedal board; drive- Formula B Superplexi, because it’s also got a boost, in a not huge case.
Distortion/fuzz- EQD Hizumitas (Hizumita is Japanese for Distortion)
Controversy: I’m putting delay before chorus- Delay- Boss DD-? (They’re all good, but grab one with stereo out)
Chorus/Flange- Digitech Nautila has stereo IN and out (that’s why you need stereo out on the delay)
Reverb- Boss Stereo Reverb, again stereo in and out.
Bonus- it doesn’t have to necessarily go on the board, but a wah pedal is a good thing to have first in the chain. Just test it with the fuzz as some vintage circuits are not fuzz friendly (unless you’re going for that screechy-squeaky tone).
MXR mini iso brick is under $100 and has served me well on my mini board for years!
18:16 , my personal opinion
amp
I’ve had a self made board with zip ties a grill and daisy chain but thanks for the section on power!
I put the fuzzy side on the pedal 😅 I didn’t want my pedals sticking to the carpeted floor when rearranging my boards.
The TC clip-on Polytune/Unitune are a good tip! They are not the cheapest but they work really well, it's basically the pedal as clip-on. I always have one in my guitar case.
A tip. Clip on tuners work best clipped to the volume/tone control knobs on electric guitars and on acoustic guitars' clip to the the inside edge of the sound hole. picks up the sound vibration better and will sustain longer and also makes it easier to see looking ⬇️ down. Then clip back on the headstock after tuning.
Welcome back guys! 😊
I've been trying pedals (including some of yours) and different setups on my pedalboard.
At the moment i have 13 pedals (including tuner and looper switch) and they are all powered by daisy chain with a TrueTone OneSpot.
I totally agree with Josh that isolated power supply is the best choice, but for my experience the quality of the pedal has an important role as well.
Everytime I tried poor quality pedals I had some issues (background noise, buzzing, etc.).
When I finally bought only pedals designed in USA or Europe (and maybe made somewhere else) every problem disappeared. And the daisychain is still there 😉
Hey, I missed you guys!
I put together a board about a year ago, after watching similar videos. I won't remember all the names of everything, but here goes. Starting with a PedalTrain 2 row board through an MXR Power Brick. (Probably an "internal daisy chain" but the mini surge protector power strip seems to keep things quiet. Might upgrade) Lately, I'm starting with a Warm Audio "Fuzzy orange" tribute into a Special Cranker, then a Morely Wah. Then through the FX loop is a NUX pink analog delay, Small Stone phaze, and a 3-Series reverb. Small board, but it's what I'm using right now. Oh, Live Wire patch cords. I'm in a Stoner/Doom (In a Scissorfight with some Truckfighters!) rabbit hole right now, but I'd add my RAT & Warm Audio ODD, Tighty Whitey comp , Spark boost and DOD flanger for Rock and Metal.
I went with a Sanjune power supply. It wasn't "cheap" but not insane either. Has all the jacks and power options I need and hasn't caused any issues for years.
I’ve been researching this exact thing! I’m so glad you made this video. It was very helpful. The cable testing and management was great!
This is simply a really good video + love the instrumental / effects demo af the end.
I have a spark amp, air pedal and I pad… And my pc got AmpliTube 5 max and Ableton 12 lite. Was curious how to build a pedal board. Very informative…
The boss pedal base plate tip was worth doing this entire video! Thanks!
I've been using the flat, gold ones $15/each at guitar center. Love em'.
Hi Josh. I have basically binge watched your channel over the last few days like a fat kid in a candy store. I love your pacing, your dry humour, your nonchalantly presented fantastic musical skill and your willingness to share your immense knowledge. Could you possibly do an episode about Harley Benton pedals? They are massive in Germany's budget sector, and I think that there are at least some real bangers for what they cost. Some of them are Joyo Pedals. It would be interesting, which ones, and how good they are, and how good the others are in your eyes. Thanks a big lot, and warmest regards from Dortmund, Germany.
You've given me a great gift idea for each of my son's. Great video that could lead to future more intermediate or professional boards. Love your channel...
An important note on power supplies - most power supplies only take a 9v 100ma signal and digital pedals almost always exceed that which is why a power supply like the ojai is a good choice because the outlets are 9v 500ma to go with those digital strymon pedals