I’m so glad I didn’t go for this thing. Now not going to either. My money can be spent on something a little more reliable. Thank you for being straight forward as far as reliability goes.
Locking differentials are the gold standard for crawling but open differentials are better for bashing. That car is definitely fast enough for fun. I personally try to build for purpose and do crawler and basher parts different. Thanks for the video.
I’m loving mine too- needs way more repairs and upkeep than my first car, a Rustler 4x4 VXL. But man it runs beautifully! Still sorting out wheel fit and steering. The differential talk has me thinking I should tear mine down and rebuild ‘em!
I'm glad you're willing to do some upgrades on this. I lost a drive pin on mine where the center driveshaft engages the rear diff. Didn't look like any locktite was used. The replacement part is backordered so I tried using an axial one. Had to machine the actual pin part down only to find the threads aren't the same. Fortunately I haven't broke anything major. Looking forward to following this project along.
oww that axial below is on my next rc! On mine after blowing the teeth off the spider gears in all three (only the center and rear completely failed) I bought the stock gears and ended up doubling the shims and going to 500k center, 100k rear and 70 front and I have had no problems since. I have seen someone people only ad 2 shims bringing the total to 6. I have also seen some diffs melt in the cases from no grease of any kind in there so hopefully that's not your problem
Exocaged RC not sure what size it ended up being but it was small. Inner and outer bearings were the same size. I’m running 100k center and May up the front/rear to 60/30 like my 6s arrmas. I’ll go through them then and shim them too. The loctite brigade struck on the drive cup on the rear diff and I ended up stripping it being too stubborn to wait for heat. Got it drilled out and replaced
Motor temps were 170 before I burned a whole pack through it, added a heat sink and 40x28 12v fan and motor stayed at 130. Esc fan crapped out and swapped in a yeah racing fan off a dual setup I had for my arrmas
I've been messing with the powerhobby fans on some bigger motors and they are taking the hits really well, could be the same fans as yours but with a different sticker.
Exocaged RC yeah the yeah racing and power hobby dual fans are pretty much the same. Debated on a max8 setup in it but it sounds like I better stay with the stock setup before I break something else. Tekno shafts on order(backorder) but I have a spare set of stocks if I break these. New aluminum 17mm hubs/wheels going on as soon as the m2c hubs come back from anodizing
Rear Ring and pinion went for me too. Opened it up-was actually the rubber sealed bearings. Totally perished from over heat. Also not greased enough from factory. Interesting as replacement parts from Losi is metal shielded bearings (high heat rated). I’ve had no issues since. I love my Lasernut. I’ve put through about 4 packs. And have had a broken drive shaft. I think really it’s a beefed up 3s configuration. Shame coz I’m new to RC and this is my experience-shop work. I’m thinking of giving it to my son as a trainer model and i go get a Super Rock Rey or DBXL2. Any experience with either of those models here?
That car is basically a Ten-T (SCTE) with some changes. It was not designed for 4S. I decided against buying it the second I checked it out at the store and saw that it's an SCTE. I have a highly modified SCTE that's now a monster truck and I run it on 3S and it's indestructible. The Lasernut should really be based on the 8ight to be a 4S car. Team Associated did it right by making the Nomad DB8 an RC8.2 with a different body. You never hear issues with that car's durability. Losi cheapened out on the Lasernut to cash in on the popularity.
@@jaysonroper0989 sure. Basically mounted some 2.8 badlands but also reinforced some stuff. Kingheadz front bulkhead Found some used tlr eight 2.0 big bore shocks which are a direct mount. STRC front and rear shock towers TLR HD diff housings if you haven't done that already (500k/250k/100k) diff oil RPM front bumper and rear skid plate Hobbywing SCT Pro esc (old version) and a hobbystar 3665 3100kv motor I have the mip pro4 chassis which comes with the front and rear metal chassis braces but if you have the stock chassis just add the metal ones which can still be found. And for reference I bought a new arrma big rock but there's no comparison in durability.
@@GustavoSanchez64 thanks for the quick reply... much appreciated! i have 2. one with the mip chassis with the strc bits and one with the standard 1.0 chassis but with the 8th scale shocks and custom carbon shock towers etc. both running the sct pro esc´s ... 1 on 2s and the other on 3!! i would like to know if the cage and body from the scbe would fit the scte 1.0 chassis... as the big wheels and tyres obviously wont work with the short course body... dont like the idea of the buggy conversion! cant insert pics here unfortunately!
@@ExocagedRC it's so easy to change the brake and punch👍 it was the first thing I did after the first test drive.. I cannot get hold of the Tekno drive shafts so am just going to have to order some Losi stock replacements..
Love the honesty, I have seen some of the Facebook groups and I see that is a common issue amongst many of the owners and I understand when you pay top dollar kind of expect top dollar item... But just like them shafts😜, you'll have it completely bulletproof and able to help everybody else out! 🤜🤛
Some people do comment that it is not a good basher, just for regular buggy type off road. It is not meant to be monster truck basher, though even with all those video showing how it breaks down inevitably, they don't really drive them that rough and one video even showed it spontaneously broken without even bathing. Lovw how it driver and looks really great/cool but way too.much.work needed for upgrade to make it work properly
What weight diff oil are using front rear and center. Just wondering if u changed anything after video thanks. Also did u have to add any shims to center diff spur gear. Thanks.
@@ExocagedRC Thanks for your reply. I ordered mine in July just now got it. Have a ton of upgrades including the tekno outputs. What is the best way to shave those down. Stick in drill use steel wool? Thanks
@@ExocagedRC Thanks. So u did 100k front 500k center. Did u do 100k rear also? And did u have to add a shim to center diff spur gear at due to slop. Saw that some did that but wanted to know if u had that issue.
Interesting, I have upgraded power in my db pro with the Tekno shafts and it has held up. I imagine they're out of stock everywhere now because of the lasernut lol.
I do have a new favorite and its the Lazernut for sure. That is one beautiful looking rig, and like I said before love the color combo. P.S try climbing that hill with paddle tires please? Love the video!!👍
Yeah,😉 I thought it will be good with paddle sand ditched tires, to torque out of this sand trap hole, more upgrades soon, EXOCAGED RC 🤔 will figure it out, that the powers of LOSI LASERNUT, it's like watching part 2, part 3 will be worth the wait. 🤠👍
After seeing all the issues everyone is having with this I’m glad I held off buying. I mean we all know stuff is gonna break while bashing but seems like these are made of glass. Lol
i am with you. if you want durability, i feel this is going to be a 3s rig. it can be a hop-up man's 4s dream, but i'd rather put that $ to something that is truly built for 4s
@@ExocagedRC made it through 6, 3s packs on the 3s pinon. fun, but it isn't enough power to pick up the front end while in the air = nose dives all day. held up tho, nothing broke.
My Lasernut broke after just over an hours use. I sent it back and got a refund. When it works it’s amazing but the drivetrain is no where near strong enough for the size of it.
I've probably bought more reliable Chinese built rcs @ Wal-Mart. For 1/10 the price I might add. I do own the losi baja raptor rey truck which has proven to be 100% reliable.
So disappointed, I have one drove it once, bent the shaft with no bashing. It’s on the shelf now. I don’t know if I want to dump a bunch of money into it. They had to know about this when they made it.
@@ExocagedRC yeah probably so but I think it was going to happen either way. Looking forward to see all the upgrades on a future video. Hey on another note did you ever do another wet test on the those tires from that one episode you did? I was kinding of hoping you'd do another. Let me know....thanks
That's a DB pro 3s with a 4s motor heavier wheels and tires and a different body so it has a 3's Driveline so it's going to have problems on 4s you don't have to be a rocket scientist or brain surgeon to see that but it might help 😀😀😀😀😀😀
I think your paying for the licensing rather than quality with these scale rc's. :( The dB pro seems ok on 2/3s bit the driveline is clearly not beef enough for 4s.
I have a leopard 3670 2400kv and run 4s in a DB Pro with belted tires. I have nuked the center diff actually, melted from the diff oil being too light for the upgraded power. Something tells me the bigger tires with softer foams are causing the issues. This buggy is based on the TEN S/C platform, which is based on a 1/8 scale buggy. Losi makes some of the best looking rcs around, but I really don't think they do any testing with new releases. They change a few things, jack up the price and ship em out. For example I have a Rock Rey with way too much money into it. When I went from Crawler Innovations Hard foams, didn't break much but didn't get the best traction. Went to softer foams, lots of grip and snapped driveline parts lol.
I’m so glad I didn’t go for this thing. Now not going to either. My money can be spent on something a little more reliable. Thank you for being straight forward as far as reliability goes.
Locking differentials are the gold standard for crawling but open differentials are better for bashing. That car is definitely fast enough for fun. I personally try to build for purpose and do crawler and basher parts different. Thanks for the video.
yeah for sure, speed and locked diffs don't usually get along well.
I’m loving mine too- needs way more repairs and upkeep than my first car, a Rustler 4x4 VXL. But man it runs beautifully! Still sorting out wheel fit and steering. The differential talk has me thinking I should tear mine down and rebuild ‘em!
let me get the replacement gears in and installed so I know for sure they fit. I hope they do lol
I'm glad you're willing to do some upgrades on this. I lost a drive pin on mine where the center driveshaft engages the rear diff. Didn't look like any locktite was used. The replacement part is backordered so I tried using an axial one. Had to machine the actual pin part down only to find the threads aren't the same. Fortunately I haven't broke anything major. Looking forward to following this project along.
It’s going to be an ongoing process for sure.
oww that axial below is on my next rc! On mine after blowing the teeth off the spider gears in all three (only the center and rear completely failed) I bought the stock gears and ended up doubling the shims and going to 500k center, 100k rear and 70 front and I have had no problems since. I have seen someone people only ad 2 shims bringing the total to 6. I have also seen some diffs melt in the cases from no grease of any kind in there so hopefully that's not your problem
Nice videos as always, very nice area you drive on there, real baja landscape for rc cars😃
Mine shredded the innner bearing on the rear diff. I shimmed it up after I changed it. Jim’s bearings have put out a bearing kit now.
I have a lot of bearings in stock for most everything, do you happen to know the bearing size you needed?
Exocaged RC I had one thankfully to replace it. Jim is getting a full set and for the bushings in the steering
Exocaged RC not sure what size it ended up being but it was small. Inner and outer bearings were the same size. I’m running 100k center and May up the front/rear to 60/30 like my 6s arrmas. I’ll go through them then and shim them too. The loctite brigade struck on the drive cup on the rear diff and I ended up stripping it being too stubborn to wait for heat. Got it drilled out and replaced
Motor temps were 170 before I burned a whole pack through it, added a heat sink and 40x28 12v fan and motor stayed at 130. Esc fan crapped out and swapped in a yeah racing fan off a dual setup I had for my arrmas
I've been messing with the powerhobby fans on some bigger motors and they are taking the hits really well, could be the same fans as yours but with a different sticker.
Exocaged RC yeah the yeah racing and power hobby dual fans are pretty much the same. Debated on a max8 setup in it but it sounds like I better stay with the stock setup before I break something else. Tekno shafts on order(backorder) but I have a spare set of stocks if I break these. New aluminum 17mm hubs/wheels going on as soon as the m2c hubs come back from anodizing
I have the Scorpion XXL with a KE-25 engine in it and I love it to death. My favorite RC car right now.
Rear Ring and pinion went for me too. Opened it up-was actually the rubber sealed bearings. Totally perished from over heat. Also not greased enough from factory. Interesting as replacement parts from Losi is metal shielded bearings (high heat rated). I’ve had no issues since.
I love my Lasernut. I’ve put through about 4 packs. And have had a broken drive shaft. I think really it’s a beefed up 3s configuration. Shame coz I’m new to RC and this is my experience-shop work. I’m thinking of giving it to my son as a trainer model and i go get a Super Rock Rey or DBXL2.
Any experience with either of those models here?
I just put up a DBXLE 2.0 video today. I had an SBR V1 and it was a tank. I’m waiting on the SBR 2.0 to eventually get to me.
That car is basically a Ten-T (SCTE) with some changes. It was not designed for 4S. I decided against buying it the second I checked it out at the store and saw that it's an SCTE. I have a highly modified SCTE that's now a monster truck and I run it on 3S and it's indestructible. The Lasernut should really be based on the 8ight to be a 4S car.
Team Associated did it right by making the Nomad DB8 an RC8.2 with a different body. You never hear issues with that car's durability. Losi cheapened out on the Lasernut to cash in on the popularity.
Agreed and Losi went cheap on the driveline, why do they do that?? I guess for guys like me to buy more parts from them to make the vehicle work huh?
@@ExocagedRC that's horizon hobby for ya lmao, they do anything to save a penny.
hey Gustavo.. can you show me how you´ve converted an SCTE into a monster truck? ive got a couple i´d like to convert! cheers
@@jaysonroper0989 sure. Basically mounted some 2.8 badlands but also reinforced some stuff.
Kingheadz front bulkhead
Found some used tlr eight 2.0 big bore shocks which are a direct mount.
STRC front and rear shock towers
TLR HD diff housings if you haven't done that already (500k/250k/100k) diff oil
RPM front bumper and rear skid plate
Hobbywing SCT Pro esc (old version) and a hobbystar 3665 3100kv motor
I have the mip pro4 chassis which comes with the front and rear metal chassis braces but if you have the stock chassis just add the metal ones which can still be found.
And for reference I bought a new arrma big rock but there's no comparison in durability.
@@GustavoSanchez64 thanks for the quick reply... much appreciated! i have 2. one with the mip chassis with the strc bits and one with the standard 1.0 chassis but with the 8th scale shocks and custom carbon shock towers etc. both running the sct pro esc´s ... 1 on 2s and the other on 3!! i would like to know if the cage and body from the scbe would fit the scte 1.0 chassis... as the big wheels and tyres obviously wont work with the short course body... dont like the idea of the buggy conversion! cant insert pics here unfortunately!
Wow she iis a beauty and I love the color combination.
It is a beautiful vehicle for sure
Have you not changed the Punch setting or the brake on the esc yet? It makes the world of difference.. 👍🤯
I haven't touched that yet, haven't messed with pinion either, maybe once I get the durability issues taken care of I'll see if I can turn that up.
@@ExocagedRC it's so easy to change the brake and punch👍 it was the first thing I did after the first test drive.. I cannot get hold of the Tekno drive shafts so am just going to have to order some Losi stock replacements..
@@rcpete7055 I did this when I got the savage xs lower the punch never broken any driveline on 3s
Love the honesty, I have seen some of the Facebook groups and I see that is a common issue amongst many of the owners and I understand when you pay top dollar kind of expect top dollar item... But just like them shafts😜, you'll have it completely bulletproof and able to help everybody else out! 🤜🤛
Right on
Apparently all the diff will break easily including central diff, unacceptable for such a high cost car
So did you ever get the new ring and diff gears in? Which did you order and did they fit?
I’ve got more than that. I’ve got the full Vitavon setup. It’s in the editor now just need to get it done. The Vitavon rear diff bulkhead is awesome!
Some people do comment that it is not a good basher, just for regular buggy type off road. It is not meant to be monster truck basher, though even with all those video showing how it breaks down inevitably, they don't really drive them that rough and one video even showed it spontaneously broken without even bathing. Lovw how it driver and looks really great/cool but way too.much.work needed for upgrade to make it work properly
What cool place to run
yeah I'm so glad I found this place epic but sandy dirty!
sucks that quality is no longer there with Losi!
it is with their high end stuff, not so much with the low end like this.
As President of NIRCC (National Institute of R/C Comfort). We deemed the entire video comfortable...
LOL LOVE IT!!!!
Where is this, looks like a great spot.
Across from our Walmart Jacksonville FL
What weight diff oil are using front rear and center. Just wondering if u changed anything after video thanks. Also did u have to add any shims to center diff spur gear. Thanks.
I think I’ve got 100k in the front and I’m thinking I’ve got 500k in the center. Not sure as it’s been a while since I’ve opened it up.
@@ExocagedRC Thanks for your reply. I ordered mine in July just now got it. Have a ton of upgrades including the tekno outputs. What is the best way to shave those down. Stick in drill use steel wool? Thanks
I had to vise them and use emery cloth ( glorified sandpaper ) to get them down.
@@ExocagedRC Thanks. So u did 100k front 500k center. Did u do 100k rear also? And did u have to add a shim to center diff spur gear at due to slop. Saw that some did that but wanted to know if u had that issue.
3s seem to be the way to go... Easier on the diffs maybe?
well hopefully the new diffs hold up because the vehicle really runs good, they just cheaped out on driveline.
I added the Tekno shafts in front like you did and bent one the first run. And I wasn’t bashing it. So frustrating
you bent a tekno shaft?? Really?
Exocaged RC yes, I was surprised. Can’t find any more in stock anywhere so I went back to stock shafts for now.
Interesting, I have upgraded power in my db pro with the Tekno shafts and it has held up. I imagine they're out of stock everywhere now because of the lasernut lol.
I do have a new favorite and its the Lazernut for sure. That is one beautiful looking rig, and like I said before love the color combo. P.S try climbing that hill with paddle tires please? Love the video!!👍
I have the tekno shafts in rear and just got vitavon rear diff but the output are to big to work. Are the vitavon shafts only way around that?
Yeah,😉 I thought it will be good with paddle sand ditched tires, to torque out of this sand trap hole, more upgrades soon, EXOCAGED RC 🤔 will figure it out, that the powers of LOSI LASERNUT, it's like watching part 2, part 3 will be worth the wait. 🤠👍
lol well the next video will be me installing the gears and another test run, still haven't got them in yet.
Did the Reefs Raw servo make a big difference?
yeah it did, faster and stronger for sure
Is the rear tekno drive shaft same as front? Thanks
Yep same exact pieces.
What radio gear? Spectrum 60xx?
Not sure I think the dx3
You should get a Kraton EXB, bulletproof diffs...lol. Have mine sitting here waiting for the "ultimate fix," haven't run it since I bought it lol.
I ended up replacing my front axles with guidance from your video. What part number did you use for your rear axle?
If you dont mind telling, what do you use for recording your video here? Brand of phone...?
iphone Xs Max
Hey like the new vid awesome truck 😁😁👍👍🤟🤟
You have so many Vehicles and I was wondering what are some of your favorite bashers?
Xmaxx is the #1 basher for me
For the lossy lasernut the center diff blows out because there's not enough shims
What servo horn did u use?
Reefs V2HD horn on the outermost hole
@@ExocagedRC ty
After seeing all the issues everyone is having with this I’m glad I held off buying. I mean we all know stuff is gonna break while bashing but seems like these are made of glass. Lol
great vehicle but they cheaped out on materials in the driveline, thats the one place they should NEVER cheap out on!!
i am with you. if you want durability, i feel this is going to be a 3s rig. it can be a hop-up man's 4s dream, but i'd rather put that $ to something that is truly built for 4s
if this was based off their ebuggy it would be truly incredible!
@@ExocagedRC made it through 6, 3s packs on the 3s pinon. fun, but it isn't enough power to pick up the front end while in the air = nose dives all day. held up tho, nothing broke.
Horizon...says it all
My Lasernut broke after just over an hours use. I sent it back and got a refund. When it works it’s amazing but the drivetrain is no where near strong enough for the size of it.
What did u buy?
Backyard_ RC nothing yet!
I've probably bought more reliable Chinese built rcs @ Wal-Mart. For 1/10 the price I might add. I do own the losi baja raptor rey truck which has proven to be 100% reliable.
Some losi stuff is good, some, not so much, this is not on the good list.... but its getting better.
I think this car isn't made for 4s at all. But the Gears from the Tenacity Cars should fit I think.
I hope so I have front and rears on the way.
In my Diffs from the Tenacity T were only 2 Spider Gears but you can upgrade it to 4. So the Diffs should last much longer
So disappointed, I have one drove it once, bent the shaft with no bashing. It’s on the shelf now. I don’t know if I want to dump a bunch of money into it. They had to know about this when they made it.
If you had paddle tires you probably would have made it up that hill.
Yeah or that diff would have blown up right there. LoL.
@@ExocagedRC yeah probably so but I think it was going to happen either way. Looking forward to see all the upgrades on a future video. Hey on another note did you ever do another wet test on the those tires from that one episode you did? I was kinding of hoping you'd do another. Let me know....thanks
Just not built for 4s :(
hardly built for 3s
That's a DB pro 3s with a 4s motor heavier wheels and tires and a different body
so it has a 3's Driveline so it's going to have problems on 4s you don't have to be a rocket scientist or brain surgeon
to see that but it might help 😀😀😀😀😀😀
doesn't even survive on 3s
I think your paying for the licensing rather than quality with these scale rc's. :(
The dB pro seems ok on 2/3s bit the driveline is clearly not beef enough for 4s.
I have a leopard 3670 2400kv and run 4s in a DB Pro with belted tires. I have nuked the center diff actually, melted from the diff oil being too light for the upgraded power.
Something tells me the bigger tires with softer foams are causing the issues. This buggy is based on the TEN S/C platform, which is based on a 1/8 scale buggy. Losi makes some of the best looking rcs around, but I really don't think they do any testing with new releases. They change a few things, jack up the price and ship em out.
For example I have a Rock Rey with way too much money into it. When I went from Crawler Innovations Hard foams, didn't break much but didn't get the best traction. Went to softer foams, lots of grip and snapped driveline parts lol.
Oops forgot I seen this video yesterday. Oh well extra comments never hurt. Lols
The gear mesh is too tight, and loud
I didn't loosen the motor at all, thats factory mesh, also noises like mesh and motor whine are louder on camera than in person.
@@ExocagedRC Agreed, I've noticed mesh sounds way tighter on camera.