The clutch fork is so important when installing an aftermarket clutch! When my throw-out bearing initially went bad, I replaced it with an aftermarket one (from ACT) which had a much harder spring without replacing the clutch fork. It ran for about a year until eventually, the clutch fork broke. At the time, I found a company that developed a hydraulic system to replace the clutch fork and throw-out bearing and was supposed to be able to support the aftermarket clutch. Sadly, the ACT clutch they developed with was different than mine. Because of this, the hydraulic system wore out due to improper fitment. Eventually, I just went back to OEM parts but upgraded the clutch fork. It was a very costly lesson I learned. :( On a sidenote, installing a light flywheel without a tune could cause your car to stall sometimes when disengaging gears to stop.
The clutch and brake systems share reservoirs? The reservoir on the right is for the brakes, separate from the reservoir on the left that's for the clutch. Unless you meant they share fluid cause that makes sense
Pro tip: You can disconnect the shifter from the transmission from under the car via 1 clip and 2 pins. Taking apart the interior and the shifter is not needed. Quick video I made showing how to disconnect the transmission under the car: th-cam.com/video/ipQOjL4Z-Mw/w-d-xo.html
One important tip: I noticed that once I had the transmission out the engine tilted forward, making it impossible to stick the transmission. In the video you guys use the jack to level the engine and I had to in the driveway. Only problem was, you didn't mention it lol.
@@henry5788 by the time i realized my jack was still allowing the engine to tilt we were about to put back the transmission. Luckily because I had a friend I tilted the engine up while he pushed the transmission in and it lined up just right.
I'd figure by now it is common knowledge that you don't have to touch the center console at all to drop the trans. You can do everything from underneath. After removing the driveshaft, have a 30MM deep socket ready as well if you don't drain your trans fluid before hand. Put the 30MM socket where the driveshaft went into the trans so your trans fluid doesn't come spilling out. It's especially easy with a lift and trans jack so you don't have to bench press it with only a couple inches of space like I had to do lol, fml that day, spilled all my trans fluid doing so, as I also didn't know a 30mm socket would plug it up nicely. Gonna do a clutch kit for this summer, so buying a trans jack this time around lol.
Sorry could you elaborate on not needing to touch the center console? Is there anything extra you need to undo while underneath? Does the gear selector simply slide out?
@lfk8559 no there's a pin or clip that connects the shift linkage to the trans. You can easily remove and disconnect everything from underneath. You should be able to see everything from underneath as well. You will see a rubber boot covering it if it hasn't been removed. I ripped mine off and never put it back on since it's kind of a pain.
It's really not bro, just follow all the steps and it'll save you so much money and get you so much experience, just have someone that's done a clutch swap before with you so they can help if anything goes wrong
@@TheBrokeRecorder yeah but I don't have a damn lift. I know I could do it with a couple of jack stands and Jack's. But the worst part is I don't even have a friend to help me
What do you buy as replacement of the clutch? I found this single plate clutch: www.rhdjapan.com/hks-la-clutch-kit-single-plate-zc6-zn6.html Is it enough or should I buy other parts? Thanks
Wow, this that’s a lot of bolts to keep track of. As a regular viewer I have a question, most car owners don’t have accès to a car lift like you do. For a job like this that’s seems like a must have. In your opinion, would it be possible to do this job If you didn’t have A lift? How would you over come that obstical?
The transmission housing is pretty heavy and unstable, so you will need some sort of lift that will hold the housing while unbolting/bolting. Also you need to lift the car high enough to take the housing out. If you are not savvy, it's better off to bring it to professional shops or shops that rents all the special tools. I'm expecting to spend 8 hours for this type of jobs to do myself and I'd simply ask the pros with some $$s saving me all the headaches and aches and troubles that I will go through.
If you have an older model that came with the old TOB then you will need to install the new TOB at around 60k miles. I had 25k on my 2016 and when I did my clutch you could tell the old TOB was on it's way out within another 25k.
Literally took it out by hand. Jacked my car up high enough and only took me 3 hrs start to finish no need for a tranny jack its super light. Its very easy to do
Anyone else gone through a few throughout bearings and they keep wearing out??? Yes ive replaced the input shaft cover when i did the throughout bearing so the throughout bearing has a smooth surface to guide on twice now but the noise comes back. Any ideas???
Nick Hopkins get one of these input shaft snout sleeve kits. It fixes the problem of the aluminum snout getting scored by the release bearing’s inner race. www.ebay.com/itm/PDM-Tranquil-TSK1-Case-Saver-Kit-for-Subaru-BRZ-Impreza-Forester-Outback-Legacy-/190726665715
The clutch fork is so important when installing an aftermarket clutch! When my throw-out bearing initially went bad, I replaced it with an aftermarket one (from ACT) which had a much harder spring without replacing the clutch fork. It ran for about a year until eventually, the clutch fork broke. At the time, I found a company that developed a hydraulic system to replace the clutch fork and throw-out bearing and was supposed to be able to support the aftermarket clutch. Sadly, the ACT clutch they developed with was different than mine. Because of this, the hydraulic system wore out due to improper fitment. Eventually, I just went back to OEM parts but upgraded the clutch fork. It was a very costly lesson I learned. :(
On a sidenote, installing a light flywheel without a tune could cause your car to stall sometimes when disengaging gears to stop.
Perfect timing as a wear the clutch out on my new car! Learning manual over here
How many miles did you have before changing new one?
no throw out bearing? Should have done that one too in this video.
The clutch and brake systems share reservoirs? The reservoir on the right is for the brakes, separate from the reservoir on the left that's for the clutch. Unless you meant they share fluid cause that makes sense
Exactly my thoughts, I was looking for a comment like this :)
Same 😂
most of the cars have the same reservoir for brakes and clutch... didn't check but maybe in the 86 is divided.
Pro tip: You can disconnect the shifter from the transmission from under the car via 1 clip and 2 pins. Taking apart the interior and the shifter is not needed. Quick video I made showing how to disconnect the transmission under the car: th-cam.com/video/ipQOjL4Z-Mw/w-d-xo.html
thats why I love manuals, they are easy to work on
You actually don’t have to pull center console or shifter...the c clip and dust boot can be removed from under the car
Aznprd21 makes it easier when removing the trans
One important tip: I noticed that once I had the transmission out the engine tilted forward, making it impossible to stick the transmission. In the video you guys use the jack to level the engine and I had to in the driveway. Only problem was, you didn't mention it lol.
What did you do to tilt the engine back in place
@@alec1422 Jack or something to compensate and align the engine to the transmission can fit
@@henry5788 by the time i realized my jack was still allowing the engine to tilt we were about to put back the transmission. Luckily because I had a friend I tilted the engine up while he pushed the transmission in and it lined up just right.
Probably the one of the easiest vehicles to do a clutch on
Why does everyone take out their interior? It's not needed. The shifter linkage can be disconnected from under the car.
Its common practice. No all cars are this easy to get too
I'd figure by now it is common knowledge that you don't have to touch the center console at all to drop the trans. You can do everything from underneath. After removing the driveshaft, have a 30MM deep socket ready as well if you don't drain your trans fluid before hand. Put the 30MM socket where the driveshaft went into the trans so your trans fluid doesn't come spilling out. It's especially easy with a lift and trans jack so you don't have to bench press it with only a couple inches of space like I had to do lol, fml that day, spilled all my trans fluid doing so, as I also didn't know a 30mm socket would plug it up nicely. Gonna do a clutch kit for this summer, so buying a trans jack this time around lol.
Thank you!
Sorry could you elaborate on not needing to touch the center console? Is there anything extra you need to undo while underneath? Does the gear selector simply slide out?
@lfk8559 no there's a pin or clip that connects the shift linkage to the trans. You can easily remove and disconnect everything from underneath. You should be able to see everything from underneath as well. You will see a rubber boot covering it if it hasn't been removed. I ripped mine off and never put it back on since it's kind of a pain.
I have only changed clutches on fwd cars. This will be a piece of cake.
Yeeeeea....no. I'm paying a pro shop to do this thank you very much. This is beyond my amateur monkey wrench skills. 😅
It's really not bro, just follow all the steps and it'll save you so much money and get you so much experience, just have someone that's done a clutch swap before with you so they can help if anything goes wrong
@@TheBrokeRecorder yeah but I don't have a damn lift. I know I could do it with a couple of jack stands and Jack's. But the worst part is I don't even have a friend to help me
What do you buy as replacement of the clutch? I found this single plate clutch: www.rhdjapan.com/hks-la-clutch-kit-single-plate-zc6-zn6.html
Is it enough or should I buy other parts? Thanks
Javier Balgo depends on your torque output. Basic NA setups and mild boost setups should be fine with the factory spec clutch assembly (
8:40 they are separate reservoirs, i'd imagine that was just a scripting error
Super excited for this. Need to do a clutch change soon too!
Wow, this that’s a lot of bolts to keep track of.
As a regular viewer I have a question, most car owners don’t have accès to a car lift like you do. For a job like this that’s seems like a must have. In your opinion, would it be possible to do this job If you didn’t have A lift? How would you over come that obstical?
just gotta bench press the tranny, or just use a regular jack and hold on to it
Yes lifts are not needed for pretty much any job ever.
I did this in my front driveway in 40 degree weather and in the rain with the car on jack stands 😂 definitely possible but not fun either 😆
The transmission housing is pretty heavy and unstable, so you will need some sort of lift that will hold the housing while unbolting/bolting. Also you need to lift the car high enough to take the housing out. If you are not savvy, it's better off to bring it to professional shops or shops that rents all the special tools. I'm expecting to spend 8 hours for this type of jobs to do myself and I'd simply ask the pros with some $$s saving me all the headaches and aches and troubles that I will go through.
You might be able to find a garage where you can rent all the equipment necessary
I have lightweight flywheel on my car. The problem is making weird noise like something grinding between 2500-3500 rpm.
Is there an upgrade for a high end throwout bearing instead of those cheap little ones that they always sell?
hydraulic TOB
Dang! Time to take out the Transmission on the ground again haha.. My R32GTR Tranny is Heavy enough lol
i’ll have to do this soon at some point as I can tell my clutch is getting close. Biting towards the very top of the travel😭.
Mine is like this as well. It has been this way since I have owned for a few years.
In my case it was the shifter fork/release bearing that failed first (@
160k miles)
Awesome...hope you do a video on how it drives!
I literally just replaced my clutch, how ironic!
What font did you guys use in the thumbnail? I like it!
Saved me a ton of money !
I wish you used my car for this demo... I'm hitting 45k miles which people are reporting faulty/worn out throwout bearing.
If you have an older model that came with the old TOB then you will need to install the new TOB at around 60k miles. I had 25k on my 2016 and when I did my clutch you could tell the old TOB was on it's way out within another 25k.
Where was he prying when you guys were separating, trying to take mine apart and it’s stuck together
What shifter is that @2:26? How is it so short?? Been looking to reduce the height of the shifter somehow.
What kinda grease did you lube the pivot ball and sleeve with??
I was going into this thinking I could try it, I was wrong
Those arp bolts on mine the arp flywheel bolts tq spec says 60 ft ???
Do you have to do a clutch adjustment after installing?
hello
great video, fully detailed.
good work ma man..
👍
Great video
Its funny i watch this video to see what the torque specs are and they say just torque it to spec
Saaaaaame
What lift do you guys use?
No need to remove that shifter carrier but what ever makes life easier
What kind of grease was used?
I need this
I changed the clutch but i didn’t do the flywheel and now i have to replace that. Ughhh don’t cut corners!!
Total cost for parts??
Do U ship to Australia
Yes we do!
Good vid👍
Oh yeah yeah oh yeah yeah
Dam bro chill.
Anyone here with some noise from 1000 to 2200 rpm. It Sounds extremly Like there are some nuts in the transmission.
Is anybody here from northern Virginia that can do this and how much?
um no, the ARP moly lube is for the threads
The Moly Lube can be used for the thread unless using a thread sealer, which we were. So it is just to be used under the bolt head.
For the application that they're going to be using the car for. Lock-tite on the threads is ideal, lube up top as they did works well.
Hi i have a question. Can i put the exedy twin disc clutch on an automatic gt86? Planning to buy one, thanks
I highly doubt it. Automatics do not use the same "clutch" in a manual transmission.
Not a chance. Autos use a torque converter.
86 likes, nice
The white dude needs to fix his bowl cut
Without a lift this is a 2 day job..
You could always rent a lift.
I’ve done it on my back in less than 5 hrs a couple times already
Literally took it out by hand. Jacked my car up high enough and only took me 3 hrs start to finish no need for a tranny jack its super light. Its very easy to do
@@Wowezzersdozzers all my friends shops are super booked up...
@@markgarcia3543 props to you. I will try when my act shits itself. Should be pretty soon.
Anyone else gone through a few throughout bearings and they keep wearing out??? Yes ive replaced the input shaft cover when i did the throughout bearing so the throughout bearing has a smooth surface to guide on twice now but the noise comes back. Any ideas???
Did you use the old TOB or one that came with a clutch kit? Those are also old TOB's.
Came with an act clutch kit then i got another act bearing. Never had this problem with any other car ive owned or worked on
ACT ships with the old TOB. I have an ACT and ended up buying the new TOB from a dealer before doing my install.
Good to know thanks
Nick Hopkins get one of these input shaft snout sleeve kits. It fixes the problem of the aluminum snout getting scored by the release bearing’s inner race. www.ebay.com/itm/PDM-Tranquil-TSK1-Case-Saver-Kit-for-Subaru-BRZ-Impreza-Forester-Outback-Legacy-/190726665715
lies, took me 2 days
avoided all this work by getting an automatic 🥴
Just wait until your trans starts slipping 😂😂😂
@@AIWiththebraids311 just let him feel better about his poor decision.