On a brand new engine that you built and put in a car this is necessary. But Subaru actually breaks the engine in before putting it in the car at the factory.
I didn't know about the clear flood mode start on the cars. What I have been doing with my wife's '18 WRX is to fill the filter up with oil once, the filter will abosrb all of that oil so when you turn it upside down to install it nothing will drip out, I figured that way it at least had a little bit of oil in it. But your method is by far superior, the way I've been doing it I still got an oil light for a couple seconds after start. I did the intervals similar to yours. First oil change was at 500 miles, the dealer offered a free oil change at 1000 miles so I did another one at 1000. I now do it 2x/year which is about 3200 mile intervals. My wife does not drive it very far.
i work as a technician at a subaru dealership and i’ve always recommended first oil change at 1000, then every 3-4k after that and never seemed to have any issues. i’ve also never prefilled my filters, these engines get a ton of oil pressure from cold start so i don’t worry about it too much. they’ve definitely improved the entire lubrication system on the FB engines compared to the EJs
It is the pursuit of perfection. I did a semi-hard break-in on my 2013 Forester XT and changed the oil at 150, then 500 miles. I live in the Sierra mountains, I loaded up the car with a few weights and a passenger, warmed it up and went for the hills. First a few small hills up and down several times. Then a bigger hill, then I let the car cool nearly completely. Second time, again up and down but larger hills and a small mountain. Max rpm's around 4200-4500, for 5-15 seconds or so at a time, ...main goal was to put some load on the car and get the piston rings to seat. I changed the oil immediately afterwards, at 140 something miles. My next trip was through some really big mountains at higher rpms, The car runs nice and doesn't burn any oil. I am sure it would also do fine if I followed the owners manual recommendation for break-in, ...it is just the pursuit of perfection, plus in my locality there is no avoiding the mountains.
That's exactly what I did and have been doing since I bought my Series.Gray. I take my car to the dealer for oil changes (they are the cheapest in town for oil changes and I'm lazy haha), and they think I bring my car in too much, but Im just taking care of the car I have wanted since I was a little kid.
Yep, I changed the oil on my new 2018 Impreza using about the same mileage intervals as you did. I only used full synthetic, because I could not find any documentation stating otherwise. It does get a little expensive during the first 5000 miles, but all the short intervals should pay in the long run.
You service intervals are more OEM than the Subaru factory..... LOL I love how you insist on doing it the "right" way. You should have been an engineer.
I bet that the subaru engineers would like it to be done the right way too. The marketing department gets their hands in stuff like service intervals to lower the cost of ownership on paper to make the car look better to prospective buyers. Kinda scammy Imo but that's marketing for ya.
Trust me anything engineers design that costs extra always gets vetoed by the bean counters. Well designed and built products don’t provide instant returns like saving pennies to make a crappy part. Or at least in America, I do believe the Japanese take a different approach.
Cool topic. Solely as a point of comparison, according to the dealer, my Evo IX came with conventional oil for breakin. Drove the car as recommended by the manufacturer for the first 1000 miles. Against the dealer's advice, at around 500 miles, I changed the oil. Changed it again at 1000 miles to M1 factory fill, then at 2000 miles, followed by regular oil changes about every 2K miles to this day. The car has never been a daily driver. It's on its 6th set of tires and 4th set of pads with 60K miles on its odometer, to give an idea as to its use. Burns almost zero oil. A hardly noticeable amount. I'm amazed by this, as the car is almost never below 3K RPM and sees extended periods of WOT fairly frequently. Interesting how motors these days are broken in at WOT. Not sure this make me feel totally comfortable. BTW, I really like how the WRX's filter is right in the engine bay.
Fun fact, the 18+ WRX Rear sway bar will bolt on to a 08-14 WRX. Did it with my 12' and it makes the whole thing handle awesome, so if you got a buddy wanting to upgrade his sway bars buy his from him.
My 06 WRX has clear flood mode, but it can be touchy... one time I only just thought about letting my foot off the accelerator and it started at full throttle. I use it to move some oil around if I’ve let the car sit for a couple weeks. Use it at your own risk. Edit - I wrote this before the part in the video where Mr Subaru used this feature.
FYI I’ve used the melling MPL-101 compressed air engine oil primer on all rebuilds to avoid dry starts. It’s expensive but it works well. Just install the fitting where the oil pressure sending unit goes charge with air and oil and let ER rip... they were pricy but they have come way down in price
I have a 2021 WRX & I did my oil changed. Before I cranked it I did the oil flood mode that you mention & yes you can perform it. This is cool cuz this way oil can be pumped through the engine without having a dry crank. 😁
With modern engines apparently a WOT break in is the best way to do it. From what I’ve been told it has to do with seating the piston rings. Low tension rings and the very smooth cylinder bore surface (to reduce friction increase mpg) they need a ton of heat to get seated.
That is an insane oil break in procedure you are suggesting... I have NEVER had any issues at changing @ 500-1500 and then 3500.... and I have had 24 new vehicles (8 were Subies). I also immediately install a Fujimoto quick drain on all vehicles- This is a must if you do your own frequent oil changes...
MrSubaru, I changed the oil/filter in my '23 Outback for the first time today after 670 miles. I purchased OEM 0W-20 Subaru oil and crush washer but have't gone ahead and gotten a black Subaru filter yet. I changed it to WIX XP as I've seen/read they had gotten the best reviews compared to other brands. I'll try to get the black Tokyo roki filter next time, used the clear flood mode and worked like a charm! So happy I came across your channel and love the content!
Hey mr. Subaru, I’m currently a service tech a Subaru dealership and we use a funnel like that and it works on everything that I’ve had in here and the black filters are used on brz, 15+ wrx and the 6 cylinder engines, everything else uses the blue ones even the new sti’s which is sad. And the original filter on a cross trek from the factory is a black one but we don’t carry those so we just put the blue ones on
Can you use the wrx black filter on other models? Was about to buy one for the wifes forester. That or those black Mazda filters. Looking for alternative to the blue filter
Great channel. I have an unhealthy obsession with my car and I’m always trying to learn the best ways to take care of my ‘18 STI. My first oil change was 250mi, then 750, 1500, 3000, and every 2,500miles afterward. And all the “normies” (non car people) think I’m crazy but You made me feel better about that. Please keep the vids coming! Aloha from Maui🤙
Odds are his STI will blow an engine anyways because he will drive it super hard while us "normies" will drive our normal cars without any issues not having done any of that dumb shit suggested by people who obsess about their cars
Hope your personal stuff can be resolved to your satisfaction. A story to take your mind off the BS. Many years ago I worked with a Vietnamese marine Engineer. Phong escaped the war and his oppressive govt. on a small "run-about" propelled by an outboard motor. 2 cycle/4 cycle? Anyway, they lost an exhaust keeper. They opened it up, put the intake keepers on the exhaust valves. They wrapped the intake stems w/fishing line and continued to freedom! True story!
Re: personal stress - always remember you gotta take care of #1. Everything else takes second priority; we’ll be here whenever you are around! Pronunciation of Idemitsu is close enough!
Very meticulous! If I bought a brand new one I would probably be exactly the same. Everything you are doing may in fact be "unnecessary" in the end. It is however, still cheap insurance if it helps at all. I had totally forgotten about clear flood mode and I'm gonna use that technique from now on!
Here in Sweden we have to let our dealership service the car for the factory warranty. I think most cars now days here has like a 25 000-30 000km service interval or once each year, which when I calculate it says about 18 000 miles US (we don't use miles in Sweden). You could service the car more frequently at the dealer but you pay about 200-300$ per oil change and a lot of new vehicles is sold as leasing cars.
There was an article in Popular Mechanic, many years ago, way before the internet. Car engine's first oil change should be at 200 miles, 2nd oil change should be at 1000 miles. After that at manufacturer's recommendation.
Yes, Subarus do have flood clear crank mode, floor the accelerator pedal to have wide open throttle (WOT) and the car wont start, I use that procedure after an oil change in my Forester.
Since it is direct injection I would put a oil separater on it to reduce the oil caking on the intake valves. It may have one from the factory, not sure.
Nice tutorial Mr. Sub! I'm about to do mine.. just wondering if having the front of the car lifted doesn't drain all the oil since is not sitting flat?
I wonder if that certified Subaru oil has a more readily-available equivalent, maybe even for less money, that would meet all necessary Subaru specifications? Mobil 1 perhaps?
Any name brand synthetic is perfectly ok. Subaru motor oil is made by Idemitsu. Available at Napa,advance Auto,possibly other places. Most Asian carmakers often use a common API oil standard. So buy what you can afford. Costco has Kirkland Synthetic motor oil that is extremely affordable. 10 Qts for $24-$26. It's a high quality oil made by Warren Distribution. No problems with it. Walmart Supertech is another affordable oil.
Does it matter which way crush washer goes on? Torque specs on filter and drain plug? Love the videos thank you. My Forester is almost at 45k and one year of warranty left so I'm starting to do my own maintenance!
I tried to follow the "drive it hard" breakin with my '18 Forester. Hard acceleration from low to mid range RPM. It's not burning oil (yet) so everything seated in. That was my main concern with it. I think I did 1000, 3000 then started changing at 6000 intervals.
The Nissan GTR engine is broken in the same way, by hooking it up to the dyno but running it for over an hour. I got a '21 Ascent with the FA24Dit and went easy for the first 1000 miles, then the regular ones they recommended, but no successive oil changes like you describe. No issues so far. But wish i took the time now.
I was told every 6k to change it. In my manual it says every 5k or 6months which ever comes first. this is a 2016 subaru crosstrek limited. Oh and for the breakin period it said to change the oil at the 1k mile mark then at either 5k or 6month.
Yeah. I like this guy's channel, but some of his suggestions seem kind of superstitious. Six oil changes within the first six months of ownership? Don't break in a new engine with synthetic oil? Where is this stuff coming from? Because it's certainly not in the owner's manual. I feel like if Subaru felt these steps were so important, they would have documented it somewhere.
Excessive perhaps, but its good for the engine. In the past, when synthetic oils were truly synthetic and very slippery you would not want to break-in an engine on such oil. It would hinder the break-in process. Today's so called Full Synthetic oils are just super clean extra refined mineral oils so there is no problem using them from day One.
These suggestions come from nearly every major engine builder's break in procedures since the beginning of the internal combustion engine. Don't like it? Don't do it.
As far as "Break In" on any engine I have never done anything special. No additives, no special oil, just drive them easy for the first 1000 miles (vary speed, no high speed driving, no hard acceleration) and change the oil and filter at 1000 miles and have always got good service out of the engine, last car 409,800 miles and the old truck I have had since new 308,000 miles with no engine issues. As far as oil brand that is more a personal preference and it seems everyone's own brand is the best. FYI I have always used WALMART SuperTech Synthetic NO JOKE it even meet DEXOS 2 specs. If you do sell that car someone will get a great engine!! with a fun car attached.
Again, thank you for your teaching, I did not know about this braking in. Does this also apply for Outbacks since they are not sporty cars. Also, after driving for a while, how long do you have to wait for the oil to go down to the drain and check the level?
Yes. All new engines require a break in. Engine speed kept below 4k rpm for the first 1,000 miles. No cruise control, vary engine speed. No full throttle acceleration. Usually 60 seconds or so after shutdown allows enough time for the oil the drain back to the pan for an accurate measurement.
Like you said, I think all engines are broken in at the factory. As part of their quality and function tests, Japan factory runs a special single weight oil in the engine for some period of time. Oil is drained and engine is crated. In the case of my 24 OBW, car came with 0W20 synthetic and a US-made filter from Indiana plant. Maybe you can still do one or two oil changes before your regular interval, but I believe this is far less important than perhaps 20 years ago.
You can pour quite a bit of oil into a new filter and presoak the media without getting too messy. That should at least help reduce the time to get oil in and out.
Actually it wasn’t just stis that got those aluminum control arms. Every Subaru made in japan got them, hence why in America only the stis got them cause the regular wrxs were made in America. But if you live in Canada and imported even a legacy or a forester they had the same aluminium control arms
A lot of cars are being produced use synthetic after production. You can get a good break in, with better consideration to uniformity on wear, with a dyno setup, than a road setup. I do understand what you are saying though. I would still run it as a break in at purchase. Just get the 30 weight with the zddp. You can also get idemitsu oil directly, it's a bit cheaper, and that is what I do. Lucas makes a break in oil I like. Normally, I just get conventional oil and add a additive also lucas.
Would you recommend the same break in oil change technique for a 24 Crosstrek with a 2.5 engine? What type of oil should I use for that? Do you have any affiliate links to buy any of this stuff to help out the channel? Thanks!
Cool thing about Idemitsu engine oil it's USA HQ is in Indiana just like most Subaru's which are also assembled in Indiana (apart from the performance models which are made in Gunma in Japan).
Recently got a 2020 wrx, my question is if a want to do the changes on my own not through a shop or a dealership(which I always did with all my cars, but this is my first brand new one) the warranty will still hold as long as I submit the service to MySubaru? Or I have to be some sort of a qualified mechanic? Thanks alot for the great videos!
When your new WRX is past the warranty you might check out Cobb for upgrades. Then it might keep up with my 05 Outback XT;) Subaru does do a decent CVT but the WRX deserves a manual. What's yours?
The old ways of breaking in no longer apply... these machines are much better built and the tolerances are significantly improved since the 1970's.... Do not sell the car, you are going to take it in the shorts....financially.
Only really needed break in for the cams and rings. They break in the cams now on the dyno and the material they use for the rings now needs little to no breakin
Yeah I had heard that since more or less the late 90s or early 00s engines always went through a factory break in. Not that they didn't still recommend a "light driving" period, but not the same as old school break ins.
You have not missed much, just the frustration of dealing with arsehole dealerships, lieing sales people and a sense that you are on your own, what ever goes wrong. In my country the used car buyer has more consumer protection than the new car buyer.
Snadizes is right very very excesive to do this. The best way to deal with a new motor is follow the enginers directions who built the motor. For this situation stay under 4k rpms under 50% throttle and avoid rapid accell / decells and avoid long driving at consistant speed for the first 1,000 miles. After that changin the oild anytime between 1,000 miles and 6000 miles should be fine. The key is to keep an eye on the oil if ur trying to wait till 6k. All that being said doing 500, 1500, 3k changes is very unlikely to "hurt" the motor. Love the video btw super in depth thanks very much hope personal stuff gets better!!
Did not know about this 🤦🏻♂️ I’m already at 2800 miles. I was told my first oil change service would be at 6000 miles. Now I’m gonna go change my oil and filter. With that being said, is my engine done for?
Subaru recommends full synthetic....I am changing mine @ 500 miles this weekend.....then @ 1000...subaru filter and Mobile 1 5w-30 full synthetic.2021 Wrx STI.
Did you put oil in the oil filter before you put it back on so you didn’t run it dry? I hear if u also put some on the seal each time it’ll make the seal last longer
Hope all is good with you. I have been using the denso oil filters from rockauto should I start using the new oem black oil filters. I have a 2006 STI all stock with spt catback. 124,000 miles on car . Been reliable except for the evap issues. Fumato drain plug?
What differential gear ration is in the 2019 WRX? Not an STI. I'm seeing everything from 3.50 to 4.10. We bought it with 15K on ODO, no window sticker.
MrSubaru1387 Got the car used with 2k miles and just did my own oil changes. Never even thought about using Subaru brand oil, I’ve been a mobile 1 guy all my life. This is our first Subaru btw, so didn’t know that you need to use Subaru oil. P. S Idemitsu Full Synthetic 0W-20 Engine is the same oil Subaru dealer use right? Thanks for the great content that you put out.
MrSubaru1387 Last question. Which one would you use in a 2018 Outback 2.5? ZEPRO 30010095-95300C020 Eco Medalist Advanced Moly 0W-20 ZEPRO 30010096-95300C020 Eco Medalist 0W-20
I use the same oil in my 2019 Outback with the 3.6. Did a few UOA’s on the oil and one VOA. Interesting oil. Loaded with molybdenum and calcium. Not sure of their thinking on the calcium and tdi.
Calcium means they want it to be good at fighting rise in acidity. Usually diesel oils have plenty of calcium. Do you have values from the VOA, for calcium, molybdenum, and perhaps zinc? Please share if so.
@@TheLazyCarrot Please share, I am interested also in molybdenum and zinc. My theory is this oil has a lot of molybdenum to substitute for zinc. Zinc is probably on the lower side.
When i bought my 2018 mazda 3 i changed the oil at 2000km than at 8000. Than did the 8k intervals. After a year and 55000km it ran great didnt burn out. But it caught fire due to a short in the factory amp burned to the ground
Question ..going based off climate..oil matters on that part.i don't understand why ppl use 5w30 in very hot climate states or area . Thats to thin especially in. Hot state the oil is already warm .5w30 has a very low heat point where heats starts breaking down the oil thinner ..I use 20w50 .my logic not thick as syrup but thicker oil is better on metal to metal .I have 280000 miles on my 06 forester ej2.5 p2096 code and I have no knocks or pings and use 93 ..so yea think oil 5w30 is for cold climates so the oils doesn't freeze soild.
I did my new Q5 & new 2010 Prius first oil changes way early, like 500 miles first, 1500 second, 5000 miles third & 5000 miles (Q5) and 10,000 miles (Prius) thereafter. Used oil analysis reports said the Prius was fine at 10,000 intervals, but the oil in the Q5 turbo suffered viscosity loss at 5000 so I've changed it at 5K rather than 10K per the manufacturer's rules. Viscosity loss was worse in the dealer oil (Castrol) than in Mobil 1 which I've used.
Nice car ). Wonder if you can provide some advice, I have a Suabru XC/Crosstreck and I get a grind noise (close to break being stuck) at 7mph when car been standing for 15+ minutes. Subaru service centre are unable hear but sometimes it that bad you can feel it, like a very quick grind (less then a seond). My car does have a CVT.
since the filter is on the top these days on subarus, why not use an oil extractor. then you don't even need to get under the car. been doing it this way on my BMW for years
Since you're asking my opinion, this is it. They're garbage and I hate them. I bought an 02 WRX that had one. Immediately threw it in the trash and replaced it with an OE drain plug and crush washer.
@@MrSubaru1387 Ok. Thank you very much . I have already installed one on my Outback and I really like it cause it makes changing your oil very easy. The only drawback is the flow of drainage is slow.
I'm curious why you put the drain plug back in and then unscrewed the oil filter. I usually unscrew the filter while oil is still draining, believing oil will drain more completely. Do you think it matters?
On a brand new engine that you built and put in a car this is necessary. But Subaru actually breaks the engine in before putting it in the car at the factory.
I didn't know about the clear flood mode start on the cars. What I have been doing with my wife's '18 WRX is to fill the filter up with oil once, the filter will abosrb all of that oil so when you turn it upside down to install it nothing will drip out, I figured that way it at least had a little bit of oil in it. But your method is by far superior, the way I've been doing it I still got an oil light for a couple seconds after start.
I did the intervals similar to yours. First oil change was at 500 miles, the dealer offered a free oil change at 1000 miles so I did another one at 1000. I now do it 2x/year which is about 3200 mile intervals. My wife does not drive it very far.
i work as a technician at a subaru dealership and i’ve always recommended first oil change at 1000, then every 3-4k after that and never seemed to have any issues. i’ve also never prefilled my filters, these engines get a ton of oil pressure from cold start so i don’t worry about it too much. they’ve definitely improved the entire lubrication system on the FB engines compared to the EJs
It is the pursuit of perfection. I did a semi-hard break-in on my 2013 Forester XT and changed the oil at 150, then 500 miles. I live in the Sierra mountains, I loaded up the car with a few weights and a passenger, warmed it up and went for the hills. First a few small hills up and down several times. Then a bigger hill, then I let the car cool nearly completely. Second time, again up and down but larger hills and a small mountain. Max rpm's around 4200-4500, for 5-15 seconds or so at a time, ...main goal was to put some load on the car and get the piston rings to seat. I changed the oil immediately afterwards, at 140 something miles. My next trip was through some really big mountains at higher rpms, The car runs nice and doesn't burn any oil. I am sure it would also do fine if I followed the owners manual recommendation for break-in, ...it is just the pursuit of perfection, plus in my locality there is no avoiding the mountains.
That's exactly what I did and have been doing since I bought my Series.Gray. I take my car to the dealer for oil changes (they are the cheapest in town for oil changes and I'm lazy haha), and they think I bring my car in too much, but Im just taking care of the car I have wanted since I was a little kid.
Nothing like working on a brand new Subaru, everything's clean and comes apart with ease!
Perhaps someday I will know this feeling.
Yep, I changed the oil on my new 2018 Impreza using about the same mileage intervals as you did. I only used full synthetic, because I could not find any documentation stating otherwise. It does get a little expensive during the first 5000 miles, but all the short intervals should pay in the long run.
You service intervals are more OEM than the Subaru factory..... LOL I love how you insist on doing it the "right" way. You should have been an engineer.
I bet that the subaru engineers would like it to be done the right way too. The marketing department gets their hands in stuff like service intervals to lower the cost of ownership on paper to make the car look better to prospective buyers. Kinda scammy Imo but that's marketing for ya.
Trust me anything engineers design that costs extra always gets vetoed by the bean counters. Well designed and built products don’t provide instant returns like saving pennies to make a crappy part. Or at least in America, I do believe the Japanese take a different approach.
As an engineer and a subaru owner i agree this is the right way
The most thorough Subaru oil change video I’ve seen - thank you!
Cool topic. Solely as a point of comparison, according to the dealer, my Evo IX came with conventional oil for breakin. Drove the car as recommended by the manufacturer for the first 1000 miles. Against the dealer's advice, at around 500 miles, I changed the oil. Changed it again at 1000 miles to M1 factory fill, then at 2000 miles, followed by regular oil changes about every 2K miles to this day. The car has never been a daily driver. It's on its 6th set of tires and 4th set of pads with 60K miles on its odometer, to give an idea as to its use. Burns almost zero oil. A hardly noticeable amount. I'm amazed by this, as the car is almost never below 3K RPM and sees extended periods of WOT fairly frequently. Interesting how motors these days are broken in at WOT. Not sure this make me feel totally comfortable. BTW, I really like how the WRX's filter is right in the engine bay.
Fun fact, the 18+ WRX Rear sway bar will bolt on to a 08-14 WRX. Did it with my 12' and it makes the whole thing handle awesome, so if you got a buddy wanting to upgrade his sway bars buy his from him.
My 06 WRX has clear flood mode, but it can be touchy... one time I only just thought about letting my foot off the accelerator and it started at full throttle. I use it to move some oil around if I’ve let the car sit for a couple weeks. Use it at your own risk. Edit - I wrote this before the part in the video where Mr Subaru used this feature.
FYI I’ve used the melling MPL-101 compressed air engine oil primer on all rebuilds to avoid dry starts. It’s expensive but it works well. Just install the fitting where the oil pressure sending unit goes charge with air and oil and let ER rip... they were pricy but they have come way down in price
I have a 2021 WRX & I did my oil changed. Before I cranked it I did the oil flood mode that you mention & yes you can perform it. This is cool cuz this way oil can be pumped through the engine without having a dry crank. 😁
With modern engines apparently a WOT break in is the best way to do it. From what I’ve been told it has to do with seating the piston rings. Low tension rings and the very smooth cylinder bore surface (to reduce friction increase mpg) they need a ton of heat to get seated.
I read a very similar thing after I rebuilt the top end on my 4 wheeler.
That is an insane oil break in procedure you are suggesting... I have NEVER had any issues at changing @ 500-1500 and then 3500.... and I have had 24 new vehicles (8 were Subies). I also immediately install a Fujimoto quick drain on all vehicles- This is a must if you do your own frequent oil changes...
MrSubaru, I changed the oil/filter in my '23 Outback for the first time today after 670 miles. I purchased OEM 0W-20 Subaru oil and crush washer but have't gone ahead and gotten a black Subaru filter yet. I changed it to WIX XP as I've seen/read they had gotten the best reviews compared to other brands. I'll try to get the black Tokyo roki filter next time, used the clear flood mode and worked like a charm! So happy I came across your channel and love the content!
I just ordered a new crosstrek. This is huge information on engine break in. Thank you !!
Caught a couple of AvE references. Great quality content as usual!
2016 WRX brand new. At 100k miles now. I've done Penzoil 5W30 Full Synthetic with Purolator One filter changes every 5k miles.
Not a single issue yet.
RedSaiyan original filter looks prettier...
Hey mr. Subaru, I’m currently a service tech a Subaru dealership and we use a funnel like that and it works on everything that I’ve had in here and the black filters are used on brz, 15+ wrx and the 6 cylinder engines, everything else uses the blue ones even the new sti’s which is sad. And the original filter on a cross trek from the factory is a black one but we don’t carry those so we just put the blue ones on
Can you use the wrx black filter on other models? Was about to buy one for the wifes forester. That or those black Mazda filters. Looking for alternative to the blue filter
Josh Bascii not the ones for the wrx but you can find black filters for other models online
Hopefully the crunchy stuff in your personal life smooth out sooner than later and you find a good home for the STI if you do sell it.
Luckily it was resolved on Friday.
It's a WRX with Performance package. 😀 If it was an STI there would have been neon green Brembo brake calipers.
@@mb_mobile49 and a rinkle red intake manifold. Lol
Great channel. I have an unhealthy obsession with my car and I’m always trying to learn the best ways to take care of my ‘18 STI. My first oil change was 250mi, then 750, 1500, 3000, and every 2,500miles afterward. And all the “normies” (non car people) think I’m crazy but You made me feel better about that. Please keep the vids coming! Aloha from Maui🤙
Oil is cheap, engine repairs are not. You're doing the right thing.
Odds are his STI will blow an engine anyways because he will drive it super hard while us "normies" will drive our normal cars without any issues not having done any of that dumb shit suggested by people who obsess about their cars
My oil fill funnel fits my 2017 Impreza too!
And today I learned how to enter a DIY service for my 2017 Impreza. Cool!
Hope your personal stuff can be resolved to your satisfaction. A story to take your mind off the BS. Many years ago I worked with a Vietnamese marine Engineer. Phong escaped the war and his oppressive govt. on a small "run-about" propelled by an outboard motor. 2 cycle/4 cycle? Anyway, they lost an exhaust keeper. They opened it up, put the intake keepers on the exhaust valves. They wrapped the intake stems w/fishing line and continued to freedom! True story!
Re: personal stress - always remember you gotta take care of #1. Everything else takes second priority; we’ll be here whenever you are around!
Pronunciation of Idemitsu is close enough!
Omg Mr Subaru I hope everything will turn out ok for you. Sorry to see it go.
Very meticulous! If I bought a brand new one I would probably be exactly the same. Everything you are doing may in fact be "unnecessary" in the end. It is however, still cheap insurance if it helps at all. I had totally forgotten about clear flood mode and I'm gonna use that technique from now on!
Great video!👍 I hope you can make some more videos on the new WRX before she goes👋.
I always use trip B as the oil change counter.
Trip B driver's are the real car guys.
Here in Sweden we have to let our dealership service the car for the factory warranty. I think most cars now days here has like a 25 000-30 000km service interval or once each year, which when I calculate it says about 18 000 miles US (we don't use miles in Sweden). You could service the car more frequently at the dealer but you pay about 200-300$ per oil change and a lot of new vehicles is sold as leasing cars.
thanks for showing that we had to log our services in when we do it ourselves. Didn't know about that
Hope everything gets better for you Mr. Subaru. All the best.
Yes Subarus have a clear flood mode when you hold the pedal to the floor
Ya
Your work is priceless -keep up with the good work
I changed mine at 1000 Miles and it broke in great...no oil burning whatsoever.
I couldn’t tell with my dads because he always takes it to the Subaru dealership and has it fully serviced
For those of you who are watching this video to make sure your doing everything correctly the oil change doesn’t start until 15:11 into the video
There was an article in Popular Mechanic, many years ago, way before the internet.
Car engine's first oil change should be at 200 miles, 2nd oil change should be at 1000 miles. After that at manufacturer's recommendation.
Yes, Subarus do have flood clear crank mode, floor the accelerator pedal to have wide open throttle (WOT) and the car wont start, I use that procedure after an oil change in my Forester.
If that was a lady and you treated it that well she would be forever grateful LOL.
richard miller
Or she would take advantage of you and treat you like crap
@@mrbmoney2396 😂😂😂 Been there.
@@mrbmoney2396 So true...be mean to keep them keen
Since it is direct injection I would put a oil separater on it to reduce the oil caking on the intake valves. It may have one from the factory, not sure.
Nice tutorial Mr. Sub! I'm about to do mine.. just wondering if having the front of the car lifted doesn't drain all the oil since is not sitting flat?
I wonder if that certified Subaru oil has a more readily-available equivalent, maybe even for less money, that would meet all necessary Subaru specifications? Mobil 1 perhaps?
Any name brand synthetic is perfectly ok. Subaru motor oil is made by Idemitsu. Available at Napa,advance Auto,possibly other places. Most Asian carmakers often use a common API oil standard. So buy what you can afford. Costco has Kirkland Synthetic motor oil that is extremely affordable. 10 Qts for $24-$26. It's a high quality oil made by Warren Distribution. No problems with it. Walmart Supertech is another affordable oil.
Does it matter which way crush washer goes on? Torque specs on filter and drain plug? Love the videos thank you. My Forester is almost at 45k and one year of warranty left so I'm starting to do my own maintenance!
Flat towards plug, round edge towards the oil pan. 👍🏻
@@MrSubaru1387 thanks for the reply👍
You're welcome. 👍🏻
If its a 1000 mile break in, why not cha ge at 1000 before you start ripping?
Nice. Did not know about the clear flood mode....
I tried to follow the "drive it hard" breakin with my '18 Forester. Hard acceleration from low to mid range RPM. It's not burning oil (yet) so everything seated in. That was my main concern with it. I think I did 1000, 3000 then started changing at 6000 intervals.
Mike Miller did the hard acceleration with my 19 forester doing good everything seated right not a drop of oil consumption
did mine 600 2000 5000 then every 5k....now have 105k no issues runs great....2015 cvt
my 2015 has lower aluminum control arms
The Nissan GTR engine is broken in the same way, by hooking it up to the dyno but running it for over an hour.
I got a '21 Ascent with the FA24Dit and went easy for the first 1000 miles, then the regular ones they recommended, but no successive oil changes like you describe.
No issues so far. But wish i took the time now.
I was told every 6k to change it. In my manual it says every 5k or 6months which ever comes first. this is a 2016 subaru crosstrek limited. Oh and for the breakin period it said to change the oil at the 1k mile mark then at either 5k or 6month.
Yeah. I like this guy's channel, but some of his suggestions seem kind of superstitious. Six oil changes within the first six months of ownership? Don't break in a new engine with synthetic oil? Where is this stuff coming from? Because it's certainly not in the owner's manual. I feel like if Subaru felt these steps were so important, they would have documented it somewhere.
Excessive perhaps, but its good for the engine. In the past, when synthetic oils were truly synthetic and very slippery you would not want to break-in an engine on such oil. It would hinder the break-in process. Today's so called Full Synthetic oils are just super clean extra refined mineral oils so there is no problem using them from day One.
These suggestions come from nearly every major engine builder's break in procedures since the beginning of the internal combustion engine. Don't like it? Don't do it.
As far as "Break In" on any engine I have never done anything special. No additives, no special oil, just drive them easy for the first 1000 miles (vary speed, no high speed driving, no hard acceleration) and change the oil and filter at 1000 miles and have always got good service out of the engine, last car 409,800 miles and the old truck I have had since new 308,000 miles with no engine issues. As far as oil brand that is more a personal preference and it seems everyone's own brand is the best. FYI I have always used WALMART SuperTech Synthetic NO JOKE it even meet DEXOS 2 specs. If you do sell that car someone will get a great engine!! with a fun car attached.
@@Snadzies I am an old retired mechanic the BS is many years of experience.
Again, thank you for your teaching, I did not know about this braking in. Does this also apply for Outbacks since they are not sporty cars. Also, after driving for a while, how long do you have to wait for the oil to go down to the drain and check the level?
Yes. All new engines require a break in. Engine speed kept below 4k rpm for the first 1,000 miles. No cruise control, vary engine speed. No full throttle acceleration. Usually 60 seconds or so after shutdown allows enough time for the oil the drain back to the pan for an accurate measurement.
@@MrSubaru1387 Why no cruise control?
I don't go above 4,000k for about .....10 whole minutes 😁🤣😂......Edit ....every drive 🙂
@@jackd1582 because you want to constantly vary the speed of the engine the first 1,000 miles.
Like you said, I think all engines are broken in at the factory. As part of their quality and function tests, Japan factory runs a special single weight oil in the engine for some period of time. Oil is drained and engine is crated. In the case of my 24 OBW, car came with 0W20 synthetic and a US-made filter from Indiana plant. Maybe you can still do one or two oil changes before your regular interval, but I believe this is far less important than perhaps 20 years ago.
Pick up a Fumoto valve. It makes oil changes super clean.
Also, my 2016 Prem has aluminum front controls arms up front... Not in the back though
Fumoto. 🤮 Never.
@@MrSubaru1387 why? I love mine. Zero leaks and no mess when changing oil.
Did you have a bad experience with one?
Hang in there boss!
You can pour quite a bit of oil into a new filter and presoak the media without getting too messy. That should at least help reduce the time to get oil in and out.
An unrelated question, but should you open those battery caps and add distilled water if low? How do you get those caps open?
I have a marked jug that I use to measure the oil I put in... right level every time.
Actually it wasn’t just stis that got those aluminum control arms. Every Subaru made in japan got them, hence why in America only the stis got them cause the regular wrxs were made in America. But if you live in Canada and imported even a legacy or a forester they had the same aluminium control arms
Mhhm, aluminum control arms on all the LGT Spec B's too.
No WRX is made in USA. Only recently did the Impreza start being manufactured in the US.
And the WRXs are still imported. As per my window sticker on this 2019.
Every wrx I’ve seen the vin started with a “J” indicating country of origin was japan
A lot of cars are being produced use synthetic after production. You can get a good break in, with better consideration to uniformity on wear, with a dyno setup, than a road setup. I do understand what you are saying though. I would still run it as a break in at purchase. Just get the 30 weight with the zddp. You can also get idemitsu oil directly, it's a bit cheaper, and that is what I do. Lucas makes a break in oil I like. Normally, I just get conventional oil and add a additive also lucas.
Hey there! great video! What is the part number of the oil filter? Would it work on 2016 Crosstrek with FB20B ? Thank you
Would you recommend the same break in oil change technique for a 24 Crosstrek with a 2.5 engine? What type of oil should I use for that? Do you have any affiliate links to buy any of this stuff to help out the channel? Thanks!
Cool thing about Idemitsu engine oil it's USA HQ is in Indiana just like most Subaru's which are also assembled in Indiana (apart from the performance models which are made in Gunma in Japan).
Mr.Subaru what torque value you use in the oil drain plug? Thanks.
Where do you get the oil crush washer from? And what’s the torque spec?
😂 That was funny a 200 Lbs gorilla put that on there.😂
Recently got a 2020 wrx, my question is if a want to do the changes on my own not through a shop or a dealership(which I always did with all my cars, but this is my first brand new one) the warranty will still hold as long as I submit the service to MySubaru? Or I have to be some sort of a qualified mechanic? Thanks alot for the great videos!
Doing your own services, won't void your warranty.
@@MrSubaru1387 Thanks appreciate the quick reply! 🙏🏼
Is it okay to do a vacuum oil change? It's so convenient
When your new WRX is past the warranty you might check out Cobb for upgrades. Then it might keep up with my 05 Outback XT;)
Subaru does do a decent CVT but the WRX deserves a manual. What's yours?
Yes my 2013 EZ36 has clear flood mode
The old ways of breaking in no longer apply... these machines are much better built and the tolerances are significantly improved since the 1970's.... Do not sell the car, you are going to take it in the shorts....financially.
Only really needed break in for the cams and rings. They break in the cams now on the dyno and the material they use for the rings now needs little to no breakin
Yeah I had heard that since more or less the late 90s or early 00s engines always went through a factory break in. Not that they didn't still recommend a "light driving" period, but not the same as old school break ins.
Would a Clear Flood Mode be okay to use in a 0°F morning or would it just add to the engine running dry for even a longer time?
I've never owned a brand new car. I wasn't aware of all the break in complexities.
You have not missed much, just the frustration of dealing with arsehole dealerships, lieing sales people and a sense that you are on your own, what ever goes wrong. In my country the used car buyer has more consumer protection than the new car buyer.
Snadizes is right very very excesive to do this. The best way to deal with a new motor is follow the enginers directions who built the motor. For this situation stay under 4k rpms under 50% throttle and avoid rapid accell / decells and avoid long driving at consistant speed for the first 1,000 miles. After that changin the oild anytime between 1,000 miles and 6000 miles should be fine. The key is to keep an eye on the oil if ur trying to wait till 6k. All that being said doing 500, 1500, 3k changes is very unlikely to "hurt" the motor.
Love the video btw super in depth thanks very much hope personal stuff gets better!!
So you recommended always use the Subaru engine oil? My car has 96k miles on it
Did not know about this 🤦🏻♂️ I’m already at 2800 miles. I was told my first oil change service would be at 6000 miles. Now I’m gonna go change my oil and filter. With that being said, is my engine done for?
No. It's definitely not done for. Just not the optimal break-in circumstances.
Wishing only the best for you.
Subaru recommends full synthetic....I am changing mine @ 500 miles this weekend.....then @ 1000...subaru filter and Mobile 1 5w-30 full synthetic.2021 Wrx STI.
Did you put oil in the oil filter before you put it back on so you didn’t run it dry? I hear if u also put some on the seal each time it’ll make the seal last longer
I watched further into the video. And I realized u can’t fill it up and screw it on😂. And you flooded it before starting it. Nice
Hope all is good with you. I have been using the denso oil filters from rockauto should I start using the new oem black oil filters. I have a 2006 STI all stock with spt catback. 124,000 miles on car . Been reliable except for the evap issues. Fumato drain plug?
Lol, when we build race engines it’s going straight to the dyno and then to the track, no break in, no special oil, never been any problem.
very educative thank you.
What differential gear ration is in the 2019 WRX? Not an STI. I'm seeing everything from 3.50 to 4.10. We bought it with 15K on ODO, no window sticker.
Not sure.
So Is this oil better than mobile 1 or Castrol synthetic oils? I’ve been using Mobil 1 in my wife’s 2018 2.5 Outback. Should I switch to Subaru oil?
Why did you switch away from Subaru oil in the first place?
MrSubaru1387
Got the car used with 2k miles and just did my own oil changes. Never even thought about using Subaru brand oil, I’ve been a mobile 1 guy all my life. This is our first Subaru btw, so didn’t know that you need to use Subaru oil.
P. S Idemitsu Full Synthetic 0W-20 Engine is the same oil Subaru dealer use right?
Thanks for the great content that you put out.
@@smokeu600 yes, Subaru synthetic is re-stickered Idemitsu.
MrSubaru1387
Last question. Which one would you use in a 2018 Outback 2.5?
ZEPRO 30010095-95300C020 Eco Medalist Advanced Moly 0W-20
ZEPRO 30010096-95300C020 Eco Medalist 0W-20
I got confused... what happens if you use mineral oil instead of synthetic? Can you use it without any issues in the Subaru/
I use the same oil in my 2019 Outback with the 3.6. Did a few UOA’s on the oil and one VOA. Interesting oil. Loaded with molybdenum and calcium. Not sure of their thinking on the calcium and tdi.
Calcium means they want it to be good at fighting rise in acidity. Usually diesel oils have plenty of calcium. Do you have values from the VOA, for calcium, molybdenum, and perhaps zinc? Please share if so.
Se Zwo Yes I do
@@TheLazyCarrot Please share, I am interested also in molybdenum and zinc. My theory is this oil has a lot of molybdenum to substitute for zinc. Zinc is probably on the lower side.
Moly 154
Boron 83
Calcium 2127
Phosphorus 574
Zinc 741
TBN 7.1
@@TheLazyCarrot Thanks. Do you have zinc values?
When i bought my 2018 mazda 3 i changed the oil at 2000km than at 8000. Than did the 8k intervals. After a year and 55000km it ran great didnt burn out. But it caught fire due to a short in the factory amp burned to the ground
That story escalated quickly 😦
@@j.s.3414 yeah well outcome i went out and bought a 2013 outback 3.6r. If u want to see video of a mazda on fire check out my youtube page
Question ..going based off climate..oil matters on that part.i don't understand why ppl use 5w30 in very hot climate states or area . Thats to thin especially in. Hot state the oil is already warm .5w30 has a very low heat point where heats starts breaking down the oil thinner ..I use 20w50 .my logic not thick as syrup but thicker oil is better on metal to metal .I have 280000 miles on my 06 forester ej2.5 p2096 code and I have no knocks or pings and use 93 ..so yea think oil 5w30 is for cold climates so the oils doesn't freeze soild.
My 98 legacy OBW EJ25 does not do clear flood crank, it cranks a few seconds longer than normal but stumbles to life. 🤔
It was a lot easier back in the 90s
My 17 WRX base has the same front control arms.
My 2015 base has the same control arms. They all do.
I did my new Q5 & new 2010 Prius first oil changes way early, like 500 miles first, 1500 second, 5000 miles third & 5000 miles (Q5) and 10,000 miles (Prius) thereafter. Used oil analysis reports said the Prius was fine at 10,000 intervals, but the oil in the Q5 turbo suffered viscosity loss at 5000 so I've changed it at 5K rather than 10K per the manufacturer's rules. Viscosity loss was worse in the dealer oil (Castrol) than in Mobil 1 which I've used.
Nice car ). Wonder if you can provide some advice, I have a Suabru XC/Crosstreck and I get a grind noise (close to break being stuck) at 7mph when car been standing for 15+ minutes. Subaru service centre are unable hear but sometimes it that bad you can feel it, like a very quick grind (less then a seond). My car does have a CVT.
Good stuff! Thanks!
5 5 5 m i l e s.....this is perfect
My first Subaru VIN ended in 555 and I didn't know it until I already started parting out the car. Makes me really wish I saved it. :'(
Modern engines should have been broken in from the factory right?
LISTEN!.. With plateau honing these days, its not as crucial to use a mineral or 'break in oil' but if you 'wish' too. So be it.
since the filter is on the top these days on subarus, why not use an oil extractor. then you don't even need to get under the car. been doing it this way on my BMW for years
Because I don't have one. Yet. Maybe my next tool investment.
WOT on a 0 mile engine!!!!!!
THEN SHIPPED TO THE CUSTOMER OR PUT IN A CAR!!!!!!
“Chuckles, I’m in danger”
Hey bro. What is your take on Fumoto drain valve? Is it safe for your Subaru?
Since you're asking my opinion, this is it. They're garbage and I hate them. I bought an 02 WRX that had one. Immediately threw it in the trash and replaced it with an OE drain plug and crush washer.
@@MrSubaru1387 Ok. Thank you very much . I have already installed one on my Outback and I really like it cause it makes changing your oil very easy. The only drawback is the flow of drainage is slow.
So if there are metal shavings where to next?
Warranty. 😂
MrSubaru1387 I mean, say in my ej255 that's done 100k kms, what's acceptable? Should I invest in an oil filter cutter?
I'm curious why you put the drain plug back in and then unscrewed the oil filter. I usually unscrew the filter while oil is still draining, believing oil will drain more completely. Do you think it matters?
Doesn't work that way on this particular engine with the inverted oil filter.
Ok, thanks. Guess there's some intermediate area where the oil pools before it's pumped thru the system. BTW, love your videos.
my 15 limited has aluminum arms