I agree with your methods. I often use the air hammer too (or, just a hammer) to shock the threads. If it looks like it's going to be trouble, I hit the bolt before attempting removal.
I wish I could have made a video. I dealt with this on a marine engine recently... I had four broken bolts on each side of a big-block. With the heads ON. And me laying next to the engine. ...and a fuel tank nearby. 🤦🤦🤦 Excruciating as it was, I drilled them out. There was barely enough room for me and the drill. I broke off a couple Easy-Outs inside bolts and a HSS bit inside another...eventually I resorted to titanium-nitride-coated cobalt bits. Then cobalt left-handed bits. Two of them were not perfectly centered and I had to put in HeliCoils. To do that, I made a jig. If anyone is interested, I got all the tools from McMaster-Carr. I really don't recommend it, though. If it's at all possible, do it with the head off on the workbench like this man is doing.
That definitely does sound like an excruciating job, as well as some creative solutions. I usually remove the cylinder heads when access is extremely limited, however there are always exceptions. I’m not sure whether or not it would have helped in your circumstance, for situations with limited access I have had the best results with an air angle drill combined with carbide screw machine drill bits.
The broken bolts seem to come out a lot easier on aluminum heads. I have never had to do them on cast iron heads. On the manifold flanges heat them bright red and the stud will spin right out.
I’ll keep that in mind for future videos. The bolt must have been some really low grade steel, as it kept breaking off further in the threaded portion of the cylinder head. Usually they come right out.
Dad said, “well if you know you’re going to take out questionable bolts, why not just spray it with pb or kroil the day before? Then you don’t have to break em unless you feel like it I guess”
The other trick is to just use an electric impact but not at full speed, just barely get it hammering for a while. Same as a hammer but in a looser direction.
@@Atomsinaction-uk3jw oh definitely. Hey they bring it in like that. I get it. The point I make though is this. You can take off 1000 rusty bolts doing this, and still say well it’s cause none of them were going to break anyway. But of course if a bolt does break we can just say well it was going too no matter what. But to that I revert back to what I said. Seeing as how after it’s broken, if you just put a head back on it… spray a little kroil… it comes out. Well maybe if we would just spray a little on it in the first place… lol. And use the head that’s already on it… lol. I mean it does work the exact same if you just do it first right? Lol so anyway that’s what he used to say.
I agree with your methods. I often use the air hammer too (or, just a hammer) to shock the threads. If it looks like it's going to be trouble, I hit the bolt before attempting removal.
Agreed. Often times it works.
Besides enjoying the content, I like the birds
Thanks!!
I wish I could have made a video. I dealt with this on a marine engine recently...
I had four broken bolts on each side of a big-block.
With the heads ON.
And me laying next to the engine.
...and a fuel tank nearby. 🤦🤦🤦
Excruciating as it was, I drilled them out. There was barely enough room for me and the drill.
I broke off a couple Easy-Outs inside bolts and a HSS bit inside another...eventually I resorted to titanium-nitride-coated cobalt bits.
Then cobalt left-handed bits. Two of them were not perfectly centered and I had to put in HeliCoils. To do that, I made a jig.
If anyone is interested, I got all the tools from McMaster-Carr.
I really don't recommend it, though. If it's at all possible, do it with the head off on the workbench like this man is doing.
That definitely does sound like an excruciating job, as well as some creative solutions. I usually remove the cylinder heads when access is extremely limited, however there are always exceptions. I’m not sure whether or not it would have helped in your circumstance, for situations with limited access I have had the best results with an air angle drill combined with carbide screw machine drill bits.
"Im on my tenth try with this one"....checks out. Hahaha
😂
Great video and narrative, thanks.
Thank you!!
The broken bolts seem to come out a lot easier on aluminum heads. I have never had to do them on cast iron heads. On the manifold flanges heat them bright red and the stud will spin right out.
Oftentimes they do come out easier on aluminum heads. Heat definitely works wonders.
i'd have liked to see all 10 tries with the second one, but i know it could turn off other viewers.
I’ll keep that in mind for future videos. The bolt must have been some really low grade steel, as it kept breaking off further in the threaded portion of the cylinder head. Usually they come right out.
Dad said, “well if you know you’re going to take out questionable bolts, why not just spray it with pb or kroil the day before? Then you don’t have to break em unless you feel like it I guess”
The other trick is to just use an electric impact but not at full speed, just barely get it hammering for a while. Same as a hammer but in a looser direction.
That’s an understandable sentiment. Some circumstances dictate alternative methods.
@@Atomsinaction-uk3jw oh definitely. Hey they bring it in like that. I get it. The point I make though is this. You can take off 1000 rusty bolts doing this, and still say well it’s cause none of them were going to break anyway. But of course if a bolt does break we can just say well it was going too no matter what. But to that I revert back to what I said. Seeing as how after it’s broken, if you just put a head back on it… spray a little kroil… it comes out. Well maybe if we would just spray a little on it in the first place… lol. And use the head that’s already on it… lol. I mean it does work the exact same if you just do it first right? Lol so anyway that’s what he used to say.