- 36
- 32 697
Atoms in action
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 14 ม.ค. 2024
Mac and Snap-on Ratcheting Adapters For Your Breaker Bar, or Beam Style Torque Wrench.
Just sharing a cool old school tool!😁
มุมมอง: 6
วีดีโอ
OBS Ford 1980-1996 F250/F350 Drum Brake Shoe Replacement.
มุมมอง 622 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
Just installing some new brake shoes, drums and wheel cylinders on an obs f350. This particular truck has the sterling rear differential; models with a Dana may be slightly different.
How to install cable lugs. DIY battery, welding, or accessory power cables.
มุมมอง 20512 ชั่วโมงที่ผ่านมา
Just a couple quick ways to install cable lugs for your DIY projects.
A couple quick tricks for broken bolt removal.
มุมมอง 3.2K14 วันที่ผ่านมา
A couple quick tricks for broken bolt removal.
Last resort for severely seized engines.
มุมมอง 2.1K21 วันที่ผ่านมา
Last resort for severely seized engines.
Welding cast Iron, the easy way
มุมมอง 197หลายเดือนก่อน
Welding cast iron can be challenging. In this video I am showing a quick and easy way to successfully repair cast iron without preheating the material.
Don't use this style air impact swivel!
มุมมอง 54หลายเดือนก่อน
This particular pneumatic impact swivel is potentially dangerous. Just a psa for anyone interested.
How to remove exhaust studs/nuts without breaking them.
มุมมอง 392 หลายเดือนก่อน
How to remove exhaust studs/nuts without breaking them.
An easy way to find where engine noise is coming from.
มุมมอง 1152 หลายเดือนก่อน
An easy way to find where engine noise is coming from.
Copper nickel brake lines. The best brake lines for your car.
มุมมอง 243 หลายเดือนก่อน
Copper nickel brake lines. The best brake lines for your car.
Two quick and easy ways to test a 12 volt alternator.
มุมมอง 20K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
Two quick and easy ways to test a 12 volt alternator.
I really like the variety of your content.
Thank you!!
I've recently tried a Titan hydraulic crimper. Not sure how it compares to other hydraulic crimpers, but I like it SO MUCH better than crimping manually!
I definitely prefer hydraulic crimpers over the manual versions.
Great video! The instructions were simple, and the results are impressive.
Thank you!!
Air hammer
That definitely will make things move.
good vid
Thank you!
Ive got me ms250. Its definitely handy on my property! I have a hog of a echo with a 24" bar for falling trees its a beast!
Those ms 250’s are great for small stuff. Echo makes an excellent saw as well!!
Yessir vacuum, hand sand, vacuum,I use clr cause it’s cheaper. Kroil. Then just use a tie rod separator on the rod and a air hammer with a socket welded on the end of whatever flat attachment. Ground rod driver works too. Brrrrrrr comes right out every time.
For sure.
Dad said, “well if you know you’re going to take out questionable bolts, why not just spray it with pb or kroil the day before? Then you don’t have to break em unless you feel like it I guess”
The other trick is to just use an electric impact but not at full speed, just barely get it hammering for a while. Same as a hammer but in a looser direction.
That’s an understandable sentiment. Some circumstances dictate alternative methods.
@@Atomsinaction-uk3jw oh definitely. Hey they bring it in like that. I get it. The point I make though is this. You can take off 1000 rusty bolts doing this, and still say well it’s cause none of them were going to break anyway. But of course if a bolt does break we can just say well it was going too no matter what. But to that I revert back to what I said. Seeing as how after it’s broken, if you just put a head back on it… spray a little kroil… it comes out. Well maybe if we would just spray a little on it in the first place… lol. And use the head that’s already on it… lol. I mean it does work the exact same if you just do it first right? Lol so anyway that’s what he used to say.
The broken bolts seem to come out a lot easier on aluminum heads. I have never had to do them on cast iron heads. On the manifold flanges heat them bright red and the stud will spin right out.
Oftentimes they do come out easier on aluminum heads. Heat definitely works wonders.
"knifes"
Their is sooo many 1:1 clones on temu from benchmade to microtech why did you get these gas station knives??
Admittedly, there are superior options. I mostly wanted so see if I could get a decent knife for a few dollars. Although I am relatively unimpressed, some of them are probably ok for general utility.
"Im on my tenth try with this one"....checks out. Hahaha
😂
I have been using an Ebay $50 (back then) on my daily driver for over 14 years. I have since changed the cap and rotor but just for normal tune up. I do keep an extra Ebay $50 one in the trunk....just in case. Maybe I got lucky and got a good one.
I think they are decent for the price. At this point, many of the big brands are either imported or assembled from overseas parts.
I agree with your methods. I often use the air hammer too (or, just a hammer) to shock the threads. If it looks like it's going to be trouble, I hit the bolt before attempting removal.
Agreed. Often times it works.
I mean, I'm not working on a seized engine... ...right now. Anyway, saw another one of your videos and I subscribed 🫡 Keep up the great content! I saw your response to another comment that you're working on the intros. I like the desk idea. It's like the news. ...but it doesn't suck.
Thank you very much!! I appreciate your input and encouragement!!
I wish I could have made a video. I dealt with this on a marine engine recently... I had four broken bolts on each side of a big-block. With the heads ON. And me laying next to the engine. ...and a fuel tank nearby. 🤦🤦🤦 Excruciating as it was, I drilled them out. There was barely enough room for me and the drill. I broke off a couple Easy-Outs inside bolts and a HSS bit inside another...eventually I resorted to titanium-nitride-coated cobalt bits. Then cobalt left-handed bits. Two of them were not perfectly centered and I had to put in HeliCoils. To do that, I made a jig. If anyone is interested, I got all the tools from McMaster-Carr. I really don't recommend it, though. If it's at all possible, do it with the head off on the workbench like this man is doing.
That definitely does sound like an excruciating job, as well as some creative solutions. I usually remove the cylinder heads when access is extremely limited, however there are always exceptions. I’m not sure whether or not it would have helped in your circumstance, for situations with limited access I have had the best results with an air angle drill combined with carbide screw machine drill bits.
Well done! What is the engine? I like the uncluttered desk😂
Thanks!! The engine is a mid 70’s Chevrolet 350. I’m still trying to dial in my introductions 😂
Besides enjoying the content, I like the birds
Thanks!!
i'd have liked to see all 10 tries with the second one, but i know it could turn off other viewers.
I’ll keep that in mind for future videos. The bolt must have been some really low grade steel, as it kept breaking off further in the threaded portion of the cylinder head. Usually they come right out.
Great video and narrative, thanks.
Thank you!!
I feel your pain, bud ! I bought 2 Ford Clevelands seized SO badly it was beyond a joke - gave them weeks soaking with diesel, then auto trans fluid, then wd 40 🤦😭 Ended up cutting rod bolts and piston crowns to free up and get room for chisel and engineers hammer - still limited success. Finally attacked them with 6 foot long crowbar and freed all 16 cylinders and saved the blocks. Never Again. Wished I'd seen this video 5 years ago! 🍺🙌👍
That sounds rough! Glad you saved your blocks, those Cleveland’s are getting harder to find. Over the years I’ve tried many ways to get rusty engines apart, this method has worked the best so far. Thanks!!
Mine wobbles vs the shake of the engine with the cam. Its a 351m that I built. What I'm saying is the distributor moves differently than the shaking when the engine is idling. They don't move together.
That definitely sounds like a problem. I would suspect that the cam gear and distributor gear aren’t meshing properly, or there may be a defect in the machining process. I would be inclined to remove the distributor and at least inspect the drive gear. Thanks for the feedback, it’s good to know.
@@Atomsinaction-uk3jw have had the distributor out at least 5 times. The gear looks fine as far as wear. It has a Howards roller cam in the engine with tie bar lifters.
Also, the distributor feels fine when I turn it by hand when it's out of the engine.
This is a long shot. If memory serves me correctly, as it has been many years; if the Block has been decked, or the heads have been milled past a certain tolerance the distributor will need to be shimmed. In essence, the intake manifold sets lower Than factory specifications. I believe this condition is called gear climb. Also, in some occasions, a condition called cam walk can occur, which could potentially cause a similar condition….. just a couple things to consider. I hope you get to the bottom of it.
Complete pain in the ass especially when flex pipe has to stay underneath the car🤦♂️
That scenario definitely is challenging.
@Atomsinaction-uk3jw no Sereno, this afternoon I spent 3 hours under my car. Did 2 years of welding in high school 09 thought I could no problem boy was I wrong on the ground. I have more respect for Mechanics now🤦♂️🤦♂️🤣🤣
In addition to what you're talking about, I like the birds in the background
Thank you! I enjoy them as well.
I bought two Chi-com HEI distributors (one from Ebay and one from Amazon) and while the Amazon one was a little nicer, the eBay one I'd still trust. The way I see it is I'll buy a coil and ignition module from a parts house as a backup and when the one that came with it fails I'll put a lifetime warranty one in it's place. If it fails again, warranty the sucker out.
I agree. It was surprising to see how well the off brand distributor from Amazon was made.
Really appreciate the channel and content
Thank you!! That means a lot!
Why the hell do people loves to make something very simple more complicated. Just soak the spark plug on carbon remover and it will look almost good as new. Easy to dissolve carbon buildup on petrol. No scrubbing and brushing required. If you want faster method use a ultra sonic cleaner.
Those are both great ideas. These are the methods I learned as an apprentice years ago.
@@Atomsinaction-uk3jw I posted several videos of parts soaked at carbon remover. I also did it on my GDI intake valve.
I like how you use tools and supplies that the average guy would have and not just high dollar tools as in some other guys videos.
Thank you!!
Thanks for another informative episode
Thank you!!
How about the voltage regulator? Shouldn’t be checked as well?
On most modern vehicles, the voltage regulator is internal to the alternator. Some manufacturers use the engine computer instead of a traditional voltage regulator to maintain proper alternator voltage. Typically an output between 13.7 and 14.5 volts indicates a healthy charge and therefore a properly functioning regulator. There are procedures to test and adjust external voltage regulators, however, this technology is usually limited to classic cars.
Great Lantern you got there. Nice first Fire up.
Thank you!!
I was hoping to see the blow torch from the spark plug episode get involved some how
Maybe in a future video
That was interesting. I like the varied content and I always learn something
Thank you!!
Thank you for this review. These are most definitely a good value. Had one of my four that leaked a little. I just put a bead of JB Weld around the seem, sanded it smooth and used red enameled paint on the JB Weld and it’s fine. It turned out nice, so I did the same on the other three just in case, even though they didn’t leak. And yeah, never got 20 hours from any of mine with a 1/2” wick… always get about 12 hours give or take one hour. These are a great choice for the patio or backyard or deck… I burn Tiki Oil to keep mosquitoes at bay… outside only.
Thank you for the comment and for sharing your experience. They definitely are a good value.
Great video helped me out alot, thank you.
I’m glad it helped!!
Nice job.
Thanks!!
When putting the lamp out I’d recommend running the wick back up after a few seconds of it being “off”. If there happens to be an ember it will reignite, if not you’re good to go and can walk away knowing there isn’t a near invisible blue flame sitting on your wick when you’re not around.
Thanks! I’ll definitely keep that in mind.
I’m really thinking about getting one. I’m not sure if I’ll like the plastic handles though
I wasn’t sure about the plastic handles at first either. It still feels well made, and is super light compared to other designs.
I picked up a hogue compound w tritium switch and instantly fell in love with it. I opened it up when I first got it and oiled the crap out of it. Now it fires every single time. Might be worth a look
Thanks. I’ll definitely check that out!
I purchased this lantern for a few wild camps as I wanted a soft glow lantern and like you mentioned the nostalgia! They’re so cool ! I love mine and will be using it on many more camps to come . Great review. Thanks .
I love mine as well, it reminds me of simpler times. Thank you for sharing your experience!!
I check daily to see if you've posted something new
Thanks!!
Good helpful knowledge. Thanks
Anytime!
It's not a high quality lantern but it's very good for the price. I've enjoyed mine very much.
They work considerably well for the price.
Looks like Christmas morning to me. I like the variety of the content.
Thank you!!
I enjoy the variety of the content.
Thanks
Not sure if it was mentioned or i just missed it but what size wick do these use?
The wick on mine measures 1/2 inch.
THE PRESSURE LANTEEN SHOULD BE MUCH MUCH BRIGHTER THAN THE KEROSENE ONE. SOMETHING NEEDS TO BE FIXED. MAYBE CLEAN GENERATOR. CHECK PRESSURE. NEW FUEL....
It definitely didn’t seem as bright as it should be. I plan to tinker with it some more.
Thanks for the advice as I thought any fitting used for water flow needed it.
No problem 👍
Thanks for posting awesome light up content ✨️
Any time!
I think that fresh fuel would burn brighter . I know it makes a difference in stoves . Old fuel burns but not as hot or bright as new fuel
I definitely would believe it. This fuel has some age on it.
that Coleman is not running correctly I can see flame up in the vent. Use the tip cleaner after you light. If that doesn't work you may need to clean the air intake and or the generator.
Thank you. I was hoping that it would come out of it.
A properly running 200A will be so bright that you won’t be able to look directly at it. You should be able to get yours there with just a minor amount of maintenance. If you’re unfamiliar with the maintenance process, Frank Bebb has an excellent video showing the complete tear down and restoration on his oldtowncoleman TH-cam channel. 200A’s are awesome little lanterns.
Thank you. I will definitely check out his channel.