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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ค. 2024
- This video address a common problem with the Honda EU2000i generator that have symptoms of hard start or no start and poor running once it does start. Discussions of poor fuel quality and the use of stabilizers.
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The new 2200iu has a fuel turn off position so you can burn out the gas in the carb before you shut it down. Works awsome. Never have fuel in the carb after use.
This video was a very good help in solving this problem. I have 2 of these units that I was going out in winter through snow and ice to start monthly. Today I installed shut off valves to run it dry for winterization keeping me inside by the fire. I have shut off valves on all my gas motors, tiller, mower, log splitter, etc. since installing shutoffs and running the engine dry each time instead of shutting engine off, Everything starts first or second pull. YEA
+Andrea Coats Thanks for your comment. It has been nearly 4 years since I made this modification and have not had any further starting issues. Having the petcock/shutoff makes it easy for my entire family. Now there are no more excuses about forgetting to drain the gas out.
After fighting with eu200i for over a year, cleaning jets , cleaning whole carb, changing fuel several times, replacing carb, and replacing carb a second time with genuine Honda carb. I came across a video that addresses the in tank fuel filter. I tried cleaning the filter and was not satisfied with results. I left the filter out and reassembled. It now works better than it ever did. I have always been a stickler about clean fresh fuel , I use clear gas on all small equipment, I use fuel conditioners for storage fuel, and I use the bowl drain before storage.
I've never heard of a filter in the Honda 2000 tank. I know my Stihl chainsaw has one.
I'll look for the video you found. Maybe you can send my way? Thanks
Best advice I've seen on this Honda 2000!
I use ethanol free fuel, and stable. Not proud of my maintenance, only started a couple of times a year until it’s necessary and have not had a problem. A couple of times a year for a good half hour to an hour without any problems. Living in hurricane country All I run is my fridge and freezer, a 5200 BTU window air unit, and a couple of lightbulbs. Life is good. Been working since hurricane Charley, Honda 2000i. Worth the price.
My 2000eu (1993 version) was running like poop after sitting for 2 years with little use. It would start but surge up and down after running, needed the choke on to run smooth but it used a lot more fuel. Opened the drain port for the bowl, let it drain...squirted carb cleaner up its drain tube....replaced screw and let it sit 10 mins.Its new again :)
Norm Cousins
Thank you. That worked for me.
Funny, this video talks about the problem and how to prevent it, but not how to fix it. You should make that clear up front
Brilliant, thank you very much
Great video. This presentation was faultless in organisation and logical development. While the sound was a bit variable in places the presenter was clear and concise. It was a model on how information and knowledge can be transmitted around the world. I have recently become the custodian of a honda eu 20i generator and this video was very helpful.
The general ethos of care and consideration of things committed to our care was much appreciated and should not be lost.
Made me feel guilty which can only be a good thing!
There is a screw under the carb, that you empty the carb out after use, the fuel drains out the plastic tube going through the bottom of the unit.
Perfect answer that is how I drain mine.
@@dennisdavidson3826 yep, this works for me too.
Buy gas with no ethanol, I have 4- 2000 watt Honda generators. One is gummed up. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video.
Hi, an interesting video thanks. You may like to know that i own a EU10i, and last week 7th July 2021 for the first ever time in 6 years i tried to start it. I know its my fault, but just did not have a use for it. Well it would not start at first, of course the tank was dry but filled it with petrol mixed with fuel stabilizer and fuel carb cleaner. It then started after a few dozen pulls, and run ok ish but hunted on tickover, but was fine powering up an electric blower. Left it a week, and put 10ml of neat carb cleaner in the fuel tank with the existing petrol, started it and ran it for an hour on eco mode sometimes on full. It runs like its brand new, no hunting, sweet as a nut and very quiet, I shut it off, and changed the oil, honda sae10/30 marine oil, took it home and put it to bed. Taking it out tomorrow for work, will use it for about an hour, got a new air filter on order, and spark plug maintenance cover as foam has disintegrated over the 6 years. Plug is like brand new, and copaslipped the thread,Yes I really did buy it in late july 2015, 2nd hand with very few hours on it.
Hope this is of interest to you all. Graham ( London UK )
the the on off valve work ? I'm getting ready do do the same thing
Run ethanol-free gas. Install an inline valve in the fuel line so that you can shut the valve off and run the carb fuel dry.
When you add the cut off valve to the 1/4 aside of the tubing. Get another piece of 1/4 tubing to the tank. You might have enough tubing to place the cut off valve in a place where you can cut into the side of the case so as to turn the valve off without opening compartment.
Thank You for sharing. I have one that I bought in 2010 and after a year, I had the same problem. I quit using the petcock valve and I still had a problem of the engine not starting. I removed the air cleaner cover (the air intake mine faces the gas tank.) and I have had no problems when I spray starting fluid into the air intake. I now keep a spray can of starting fluid handy. I was so frustrated by the Honeywell 2000i that I invested in a Honda generator. After I bought the Honeywell model, I read all of the negative comments alleging that replacement parts are hard to locate and that it is basically junk.
Ronald Andolsek WRONG!
Does fuel flow through those pink hoses?
This is the correct answer!!!
Excellent video ! Thanks for taking the time to make it and sharing it.
I was thinking your on track about the fuel pump and then thought no that can't be it.
I'm think that when Honda ships these generators they are all dry meaning the pump has to pump air for awhile until the new fuel hits it and then goes to the carb. Just my thought.. I do have a question for you. If I accidentally short this generator out will the overload protect the electronics or is this an issue. Thanks again.
H
kahvac d
i leaned the generator on open area and pomp the 2 hose gas will come in than run it immediately
If the shutoff turns of the ignition and the fuel then unplug the electrical ( ignition ) part and install a small switch to keep the engine running while the fuel is shut off.
On mine, I have rebuilt, and thoroughly cleaned the carb, using Berrymans carb dip, and shop air after to blow off the components/jets and such. Here is an issue i am finding,( 2 parts) but not sure if one of my findings is normal or not.
When I start it, it runs for about 3 seconds. Then dies. If I try to start it again, fuel just drains out between the carb ( on choke side of carb flange, and the gasket, between the carb, and airbox. ( so I understand I may need to replace the gasket) but how much fuel should actually come out? It seems like a LOT. And then the carb is full of gas.
If I wait a day or so, and restart, fires right back up again for about 3 seconds...then dies. Repeat as above.
Sounds like a problem with the needle valve that inserts into the jet. It is probably stuck open and fuel keeps rushing into the float and after the bowl is full it has nowhere else to go and pours out the carburetor . Either it was damaged while cleaning or perhaps it wasn't reassembled correctly.
THANK YOU!!!
I just got my EU2000i running after cleaning the carburetor. I simply would not start prior to the cleaning. However, it runs smoothly on 1/2 choke but surges when choke is completely off. Any ideas on what to look at/clean next? I like your petcock solution to shutting off the gen.
+KEH626 Based on your description of how it is running I would say the carburetor is probably still not clean enough. Most likely the main jet still has some blockage.
+KEH626 I had this problem on my Honda powered pressure washer. It ran fine on half choke. I ended up changing the carburetor and it still did the same thing. Believe it or not, changing the spark plug corrected the problem. Sometimes the simple things can really confuse you. ha.
Try running Tru-Fuel or SEF before you put it into storage. I have been using it for the last year and have not had any more carb problems. It does cost $7.00 a can but worth it. cost around I only use it when going into storage. This fuel does not have any ethenol in it.
Hi. Thanks for the post. I converted mine to propane. Much cleaner way to operate it. A question for you: how much oil does it take?
It takes a little under half a quart. If you run your generator in a cold climate you would benefit running pure synthetic because it flows better than conventional oil.
@@u50214 Thank you for your reply. Yes, mine did take little less than half a quart. I just wanted to confirm that. And yes, I did use synthetic oil - it’s much better than the conventional oil.
The manual does say to drain the fuel pipe before storage. Will that help?
YES drain or run out the fuel for storage. Leaving full will create problems
Even with the petcock that you wish to install, gas will remain inside the carburetor to evaporate out over time. There just won't be quite as much. Draining the carb is still the best thing you can do.
While it is true that 100% of the fuel is not used up, only 1cc of fuel remains and seeing that I made this modification nine years ago, it proves to me there is no buildup which caused the problem. Sometimes these gennies don't get used for six months or more making further proof the modification solved the problem. Also, if you look at the newer versions of this genni model you will notice Honda changed the design so you can shut the fuel off and still keep the engine running, in a sense doing exactly what my modification does. I agree the BEST solution is to drain the carb, but when it doesn't get done, then it becomes a terrible solution
Whereas these are stored dry, new, and empty of fuel prior to being sold and many drain the tank and run them dry for extended storage, why would the fuel pump diaphragm be susceptible to failure because the pump is empty of fuel? Its been empty since being built until used. Are you saying the drying out of the diaphragm after having fuel on it is a problem?
Rick Wagner I reported that issue because there are/were other videos that made modifications to their EU2000's that allowed all the fuel to be evacuated, including the fuel pump. Several people had claimed to have problems re-priming after that. I am not sure if those problems were caused by the lack of fuel exposure or operator induced errors. I chose to evacuate just the carburetor float bowl because that is where the problem start and it is a faster and cleaner way to purge the carburetor without tools and draining fuel into a container or on the ground.
Will the genset run well on 100LL? If so that could be an option.
I run 100LL in all my lawn mowers, tillers, quads, generators. Works like a champ. NO varnish problems ever!
Actually, my wife found two gas stations that had it. One only a couple miles from where we live. I don't recall the name. Do you have a station that refills LP? Those usually have non-ox gas too. Shell stations sometimes have it.
www.pure-gas.org/ helps you find non-ethanol near you.
can you split the gas tube and leave a say about 10 in line tuck inside so you can just pull it to the outside of the housing to drain into a cup or something? then just cap off the tube and your ready to go again?
Yes this could be done but the point of this modification was to make it easy (and safe) for the mechanically challenged people. Asking people with very little knowledge of engines to open panels, turn screws and drain raw gasoline is not my idea of idiot proof. Just so you know, the basic method you suggested is already incorporated in the generator from the factory.
If your talking about draining the bowl, the screw would have to be modified to keep the drain open.
I have an EU 2000 Honda Generator, it sat for two years went to start it and it will only run on choke. i watched a bunch of videos and read bogs. It was obvious the old gas plugged the carburetor. I am told $20 for a new carb. Bur I was in need of the generator immediately! I ran two cans of Sea Foam through it. It helped immensely. But still had to have the choke on some. I ran it through my camping trip with NON ethanol gas after two 4hr uses it now runs without the choke on. Obviously a $20 fix is a better fix. but I was able to use it right away for $12 of Sea Foam
I am glad it worked out for you. I don't use seafoam but I think it is supposed to be mixed in with the gasoline. Two cans of seafoam treats a whole lotta fuel. If the carburetor jets aren't totally plugged up what you did can sometimes clear the problem because the fuel flow helps flush out the junk. If you know you aren't going to be using it for awhile there is a drain plug on the bottom of the float bowl. The problem is remembering to use it. That is why I did the modifications because nobody would do that and when we needed the generators they wouldn't run. Running non E gas is ideal for all small engines, that is, if you can get it.
The problem I think you guys are having! Is the right way! Use the screw in the bowl drain and forget it! Use 91 octane not 87! Thanks the video was cool.
Nick, do you close the drain screw right after draining, or should the screw be left in the open position for awhile to allow float bowel and hose to dry thoroughly? Thanks!
?Why 91 over 87?
NEVER use 91 octane in those Honda generators! READ your Honda manual. They are programmed for 87 octane gas.
@@armandomarin-arias4021 DO NOT USE anything but 87 ovation gas in those generators. 91 or higher is not good for them.
Good stuff
the reason for hard to start after running the fuel pump dry is maybe it takes a while to prime the pump and fill the carby again?
t nth The modification made to this generator does not cause the fuel pump to go dry. It is the float bowl of the carburetor that runs dry. This prevents the deposits from forming when the fuel evaporates when left unused. To re-prime prime the system all that is needed is three slow pulls of the starting cord and then a swift pull. The generator starts right up. I even tested it in the middle of winter at -17F.
u50214 I just made a comment to another video that didn’t address this. I was considering getting a primer used on chainsaws and putting the pump on top of the generator. I’ll try this 1st. I had been pulling quickly and flooding the carburetor and when it starts it bellows black smoke which fouls the plug. Pulling slow would pump more gas per pull. Made me feel kinda stupid. Thank you.
How about using fuel stabilizer that makes the gas have a longer shelf life? Would this eliminate the honda carb from gumming while storing between useages?
Stabilizers helps to a small degree but the problem is actually caused by fuel evaporating from the carburetor float bowl leaving deposits behind. Those deposits seem to be more the additives than the fuel itself. The stabilizers will slow it down but doesn't eliminate the problem. If people can purchase ethanol free fuel 98% of the problems disappear. Unfortunately I don't live near a source to buy it.
RUN them dry is the BEST.
I am confused as to why you don't just remove the fuel from the part you seem to have to clean. In the video I see that It has a carburetor with a float bowl for fuel. I also see a drain tube on the bottom of the float bowl. Look for the screw, crack it open 1/4 -1/2 turn and drain the fuel out. Once the fuel is out It is not there to "Varnish" which from my professional experience takes a long time (more than 6 months) to form Scale that has to be mechanically or chemically removed. The understanding I had 30 years ago when California introduced ethanol was that it attracted (more importantly is soluble in) water inducing corrosion, fuel contamination, and ignition issues. Perhaps because it is alcohol it also evaporates faster but that would only seem to limit water solubility and raise octane. But again in California it is illegal to store fuel in non sealed non metal containers. Plastic is for temporary storage, causes chemical gassing and evaporation. Fuel breaks down faster in plastic so... If this thing has a plastic tank and you are going to have it down for 6 months dump the fuel in your old pickup and buy a steel evaporation proof , fire preventive fuel storage container that works for long term storage. The draining procedure also works for when a float bowl engine it is hard to start. Drain fuel from the bowl until it runs clear. I guarantee that is how any mechanic would clear a carburetor before long term storage as a preventative measure or just to clear the fuel that is a little old making it hard to start initially. I have started 100s of will not start engines simply by clearing the fuel bowl of non clear smelly gas. Even if you install a petcock and run dry the bowl still has some gas that is not being cleared when it stalls out.
The point of the modification is to make it easy for the non-mechanic / non-professional to be able to use and store the generator for when it is needed. Someone who knows very little of engines generally do not perform the maintenance routine of draining fuel between use. Sometimes we forget that what seems obvious to those that know, to the laymen it is like speaking in an unknown language. Obviously if you have no problem opening covers, turning screws, draining and transporting fuel then there is no need to do this modification.
We live in a state that does not regulate the quality of its gasoline. Because of that we probably receive more junk fuel than other states that have routine quality checks. The out of spec fuel needs to go somewhere so it is pretty clear to me where it goes. There are times when we purchase gas and it will last well over a year and other times it is stale in three months.
Finally, while it is true there is a small amount of fuel left (.3cc) after the engine quits running, that remaining fuel has not caused any deposits to collect leading to rough / no start situations. It has been over two years and the generator reliably starts on three pulls all year round and runs as smooth as it was new.
***** I am reading the words and trying to understand, and once I start writing it is hard to stop and edit. Perhaps these carburetors are different than lets say a 50cc engine with pilot and main jets, you would be surprised how much fuel is in the bowl and how much is left below the pilot even on small engines. More importantly concerning modification it seems that you would need to open the cover to move the petcock lever. Then why not just crack the screw on the bowl to drain out the gas. The mechanical ability to properly install a petcock would far exceed what is required to open the cover and drain the bowl. In addition most petcocks can and will leak over time besides the introduction of another point of failure/leakage. I would be way more concerned about a fire with a new petcock even when installed by a professional vs occasional bowl drain. Personally I would never drain the bowl unless I knew in advance that it was going into 6 month storage. Otherwise since you have problems with fuel variances and since varnish can not be made until all the fuel evaporates leaving the brown stuff behind. I would simply use the Motorcycle Mechanics rule of "If it doesn't start in 5 kicks fix it". Meaning no matter when it happens that your fuel deteriorates, if after 5 pulls it doesn't start. Drain the bowl and carry on. Again, as you point out I am looking from the correct operational view and not a simplified hands off the machine approach. I would just be more concerned about the uninformed messing with the existing fuel system when all they need to do is wait until it doesn't work and drain the bowl. 15 second operation completely fixed. If for some reason one thinks it is better to run the carburetor partially dry than actually remove gas that can varnish, and you can not stop fuel flow with the engine running. Again my experience knowing that fuel will be left even if you clear to the main jet level which is way lower than the pilot jet requiring full choke and throttle manually held wide open at just the right time to keep it running with a super low bowl that leaves less gas to evaporate and cause varnish which the ethanol breaks down easier thus causing jet plugging. Why not recommend that as an occasional in-experienced non mechanical home user they could buy the proper hose pinch clamp and squeeze the line shut? Seems to me it would be much safer and not void the warranty. But then again, all you have to do is turn 1 screw 1/4 turn for 10 seconds and the carburetor is ready to either start or be left for 10 years. Just saying, I have instructed more than one tool challenged person to drain their own carburetor and each time it took about 30 seconds to train.
When you stop the flow of fuel to the carb the engine will quit when the fuel level in the bowl gets to low for the idle jet to lift the fuel into the carb throat. The engine will stop but there will still be fuel in the bowl. The carb passages to the jets will be dry but there will still be some fuel in the bowl. IMO the best way would be to cutoff the fuel to the carb (maybe like you suggest) and after the engine quits drain the bowl via the factory bowl drain.
There is a wire going in to the turn of switch with a plug near it , if you unplug it it will run until the gas runs out of the carburatorwhen its turned of. I use ethanolfree gas and K100 to stay out of trouble after recommendations from donyboy73s channel it is aewsome.
A little help please. Im having an issue with the eco throttle after performing carb rebuild {eco throttle was working fine before}... When I flip the eco throttle switch nothing happens and the generator is always running wide open as if eco throttle is not engaged. Any ideas about what to look for or how to fix this issue?? I also performed a full tune up.
If you remove the 4 screw that support the control panel (side with outlets for power source), drop the panel. there are some connectors that connect to the eco throttle switch. It is very likely one of the connections has disconnected.
Good info :)
Have you tried adding Techron?
Can't say that I have but since installing the fuel valve over five years ago I have had no problems since.
I'm curious about your symptoms. My EU 3000is starts and runs fine but after about a minute or two it starts laboring then goes off. Were your symptoms like that? It's about a year old and I run it every month for an hour or so. I drained all the gas out of it and put in fresh gas with some sea foam. That made no difference. One thing I notice is the Eco throttle valve that sits on top of the carburetor keeps time with the laboring symptoms.
I do not own a EU3000 so what I am going to write about is generic in nature. To answer your question, NO it is not the symptoms covered in this video however their are two possibilities. First, if your are running the engine is a cold climate (below 10F) it is possible for the oil level to cause the engine to shutdown. Cold oil is more dense and has more trouble circulating until it warms up a bit. Symptoms: Starts OK. Runs for 30 seconds or longer and then shuts off. After a few times starting the oil is warmer and the problem goes away. Solution: Change to synthetic oil.
Second, and more likely a cause to your problem, is a clogged fuel filter. Not enough fuel is getting to the engine. Once the carburetor float bowl is nearly empty of fuel the engine will start rising and falling in speed and eventually will stall out. The symptoms remain regardless of the environment. Solution: Replace the fuel filter. I don't know where that is on a EU3000 but on the EU2000 it is in the fuel tank.
Good luck.
***** The EU 3000is is very similar to the 2000. It's not very cold here and the oil level is full so I'm going to rule that out. What you describe about the fuel filter being plugged sounds very similar to what's going on. I'm always very careful with any gas I put in the tank. The only fuel filter I see is right where you pour the gas into the tank. It's more of screen than a filter. I'll look inside the cabinet and see if there is another filter prior to the carburetor after the weather clears up.
You know I have another issue that maybe you have dealt with. I tried to recharge the battery as I'm thinking it's getting weak after so many attempts to keep the generator running. After hooking up my charger, instead of the charger amps going up, it dropped to "O". Hmmmmm. I have to say it does struggle a bit trying to start, so that was concerning. At the moment I have no meter to check the actual voltage. Guess I'll take it out and have the guys ay Napa Auto check it for me. Do you have any thoughts on that? Thanks.
Rick L.
The screen like tube you pour gasoline through is not the fuel filter. The fuel filter is either inside the tank (which may be visible when you remove the screen) or there is an inline filter inside somewhere. Because the fuel filter is part of the maintenance cycle it should reference it in the manual. One other thing that came to mind when writing this is to make sure you don't have a problem with the fuel cap. If it is not venting properly it could create a vacuum inside the tank which would prevent fuel from flowing out.
***** Just saw your 2nd video. What your generator does after turning off the gas is exactly what mine does after a minute or two. So I better check my gas cap and the filter after the weather clears up. I'll keep you up to date.
Hi My generator just leaked all the oil on the floor wasnt running had just been used for a week any ideas??
I can't help you there. Never had a 2000i fail in that way and I own several, some over 15 years old now. Could be the gasket that seals the crank case or maybe the case itself is damaged in some way. Best to take it to a place that services them. If its new then it should be covered under warranty. Good luck.
Question, what this the best way to drain all the fuel? I am moving and mover wants me to empty it all. Ran it till it stopped but still has some fuel in there.
Run them until dry!
Sorry just saw the last part you added about what i mentioned.
Need help. My Honda Harmony 2500 will run perfect for about a minute or two then dies. Starts on 1st couple of pulls, runs then dies. what is going on???
Jesse Hope It is not possible for me to know because I don't own that model of generator however most Honda's have a fuel filter inside the gas tank or somewhere else in the line running from the tank. If that filter is clogged there wouldn't be enough fuel flow which would cause the symptoms you describe. The filter would allow some fuel to get through, just enough to get it running but not enough fuel flow to keep it running for any length of time. Make sense? Check your owners manual for the location of the filter. It is part of the generators overall maintenance. Let me know what you discover. Good Luck.
+Jesse Hope Sounds like the float needle valve is sticking up, (closed) and not allowing fuel into the float bowl. Try taping on the side of the float after it runs out of fuel. Don't bend the float bowl. Or alternatively, remove the float bowl and change the needle valve.
i have a eu2000 I and I cleaned my fuel filter . but it still died. after 20 min and would not start but the next day I went to check my oil and gas came out like a gas pump is this posible
+Matthew N G The only thing I can think of that may have allowed this to happen would be a broken fuel pump. In this video I show you where it is and how it is connected. If the rubber membrane in that pump were to rupture it may be possible for gasoline to find its way down the vacuum tube into the engine. Of course I never heard of this happening before but that is where I would check. Good luck.
Fuel won't go bad in a week. The ethanol will however start breaking down around 28 days and turn to water. Stabil and Sea-Foam are good but there is a new product called Star-Tron. An 8 oz. bottle will treat 48 gallons of gas and they claim it will stabilize fuel for up to 2 years. Picked it up at Northern Tool + Equipment.
They "claim".
Well.. I bought a new pump and still will not run. Pump seams to not be pumping when pull starting
Had my two eu2000i generators for 7 and 6 years and never had a single fuel issue. I never drain the fuel and they aren't used during the winter (used a LOT the rest of the year) though I do tend to start them every other month. I do use Stabil over the winter. There's no ethanol in our fuel.
Chuck Andreas la
That is the key--------------no ethanol.
I am just now having trouble mine is 10 years old and Ethanol Free plus It has never sat more than 3 months without use of just firing up just to run 5 min
I have the same generator and have no problem starting after sitting I use True fuel (contains no Ethanol ) the stuff in metal can they sell almost anywhere with a little Sea Foam. . First drain all fuel from tank (use a siphon ) then drain float bowel on carb (drain Screw on carb) Next put about 12 oz of True fuel and about 2 cap fulls of Sea Foam . Just run engine and let run until it is out of Fuel drain what is left in the float bowel . that's it Stabil is TRASH used it in a few times and every Engine did not run or ran Horrible . had to repair Snow blowers at work because they were stored with Stabil the float bowel had a Red Candy like varnish from the Stabil . the only fuel extender that I use is Startron (blue Bottle)
While you're procedure may work, the point of the video was to make it easy for inexperienced, non-mechanically inclined people to have a generator they can operate at a moments notice without playing around draining / siphoning fuel, or mixing fuel additive treatments. Obviously for people that have experience and want to play around with chemistry then this could be a solution, but for most people that isn't the case. Most people don't follow the manufacturers instructions and tend to forget the routine maintenance and the next time they try and start the generator, it doesn't run right. The modification I have done has proved successful for nearly three years now. I never drain the fuel from the tank, I don't treat the fuel with expensive additives, and there is no need to open the generator cover and use tools to drain gasoline onto the ground. When it is -10 out and the power goes out, 3-4 pulls on the cord and it is running as good as it was new.
how would you drain oil bad gas out of the system ? if its full now
drain oil/ bad gas out? are you asking how to drain both gas and oil out? It's easy to drain both gas and oil out.
At lowes there is a replacement valve off a Honda gcv160 lawn mower engine 3/8 in 3/16 out just stretch some new 1/4" fuel line with some meddle nose players
You could re route the tubing so that the original petcock is inline with the carburettor instead of in its original position.
My 2000 won't start after sitting over a year. It looks like no fuel to the carb....any way to prime it?
The EU2000i has a diaphragm fuel pump. Priming is achieved by pulling
the start cord. When the generator is dry (no fuel) it isn't uncommon to
have to pull the start cord a dozen or more times to get enough fuel
into the system to start. It is not necessary to pull the cord quickly,
like how you do for starting. Slow pulls is enough to get it primed.
Then one or two good pulls should get it started. After doing this there
is still no fuel getting to the carburetor then there could be other
problems, such as clogged filters, defective fuel pump, or possibly the
petcock (on/off) switch has a problem.
Was thinking of pulling the fuel line going to the carb (there appears to be two going in and one drain out the bottom) to see if fuel flowed but worried about getting them back on.
u50214 one issue with diaphragm pumps is moisture in fuel and cold weather. If enough gets into the diaphragm pump and then freezes, it can rupture the diaphragm. Seen happen on older snowmobiles more than a few times.
I have this generator and after i run it i put it away then a few days later i have a puddle under the generator. What may be wrong?
Sounds like the float bowl in the carburetor is stuck. Another thing to check is to make sure the fuel drain screw on the bottom of the float bowl is closed all the way.
@@u50214 I just checked it and everything looked fine. However my air filter is saturated in fuel and im missing that smaller filter below it
Thanks. Will that also empty the tank
I find E-0 fuel at any marina. Its illigal to use Ethonal in marine engines as it can weaken the glue on the fiberglass fuel tanks fuel guage
What if you left the drain pipe open and fit a shut off valve at the end of it
Definitely doable if you don't mind draining raw gasoline onto the ground. May as well just use the screw on the float bowl. The reason I modified mine the way that I did was to guarantee the carburetor would be emptied every time. This is a great thing when you have family members that forget to drain it, or just don't care. That way I don't get a call when the power goes out and the genne won't start.
Good vid but gasoline doesn't go bad in a couple days. IMHO, it takes several months as in 4-6.
why risk leaving fuel in them that creates problems? Run them dry before storage .
is this why it works best with the choke on?
That is a sign that the carburetor jets aren't passing enough fuel. When you engage the chuck you are limiting the airflow which make the air fuel mixture balanced again.
Not a feature....it works on all turn valves like that. It's actually passes the cut off ...so when it makes the electrical connection then it turns of the spark..... right before it touches the connection the fuel is actually cut off. So leave it there before it touches the connection and let it run out of fuel then turn it all the way off.
That is something I need to try. Memory servers that the electrical part of the switch disengages somewhere at the halfway point. One thing I know is the switch/petcock is inline before the fuel pump so I'm not sure if that creates the problem others have described elsewhere on other videos. Thanks for the tip.
Maybe someone mentioned this, but this will bring it to the top. But seems like the solution is most simple by using ethanol free gas. Then fuel can just stay in there with zero issues. As long as your not leaving it for the elements to put water in the fuel.
This is true IF you can reasonably get ethanol free gasoline.
Colman fuel
The new eu2200 has a selection to run it out of gas now
My Honda generator and my brothers is the same bottom at the same time and they are both lemons they will not start after 1 week the only thing I found was to take and pick the generator up and bounce it off the floor a couple of times and then it'll start right up weird I've tried to shut off by putting an extra valve in I've tried everything the last thing I did was take the needle seat and took 600 sandpaper to it and that seemed to help quite a bit but after it sits for 20 days I still have to pull four or five times I had a 1971 Honda trail 90 that could sit for 6 months and start with one kick no choke no throttle no nothing my Honda lawn mower starts with one pull so what's up with these generators they should be recalled
Seems odd that you have to drop it in order to get it started. If I had to guess as to why? I'd say the float in the carburetor is stuck in the closed position and the shock from the drop unsicks it. As far as the 4-5 pulls? That's pretty normal. Honda 2000's have a fuel pump and if the fuel bowl is empty it takes several pulls to get enough fuel back into the carburetor before it will start. Of course if the float is stuck closed no fuel can get in so it won't start
If you run it once a month Sta-bil should work for you. I leave my small engines for 3-4 months with stabilized fuel and carburetors work fine. In your Honda there is no pressure on carb's needle valve and the gas in the system keeps the components soaked. I do not believe that in a month stabilized gas evaporates and leaves solids in the carb., also every time you run your generator the cab will be flashed.
On the factory switch, turn it just before the off position, once the unit runs out of fuel, then turn it all the way to the off position. Read the owners manual.
Interesting, nowhere in the manual is this stated however my manual is more than 10 years old. Do you have a link to a pdf manual for the eu2000i that documents this? Was this done on later models? If so its a great feature.
Curious about this too. Eu2000i definitely has this option but I don't see it on the eu2000i.
@@fatasianone Eu 2200i has that option.
@@fatasianone As I understand only the new EU2200i has this feature.
You need to install 2 small shut off valves you can open and close, one for the carburetor and one for the new fuel lineback to the fuel tank. By doing this the engine will keep running and the carburetor will run out of fuel.
What if you just let it run until it runs out of gas?
Ab Abner and what about if ur tank is at mid content it would take a much time to wait before it shuts down..
Zandro Varquez pump out the tank with a squeeze bulb and hose. Then run it dry. Also you can by three way valves that would allow shutting off the fuel to the carburetor and allowing the fuel flow easily and be consumed by running the generator. Always good to either put a little clean motor oil in the spark plug hole and turn the engine over a few times before long storage.
Too much I suspect, not sure, etc, in the video. However, for those who want, just drain the float bowl every few months if letting it sit and using the standard 10% ethanol fuel most people will use. The bowl does not hold that much fuel, and it will evaporate in a minute and even AOC won't be able to tell you did it.
Best solution, I have found, is to use non-ethanol fuel; it's sold in most states, but not in most cities. Luckily for me, where I live Maverik service stations sell "Clear fuel" that is fuel product that is 100% fuel (with some additives); however; NO ETHANOL. Ethanol absorbs water out of the air so it can add water into the fuel system.
I also add a little Seafoam to the fuel. Seafoam is an top engine cleaner, but more importantly it has an additive to keep fuel from varnishing.
Since i started to use the non-ethanol fuel and Seafoam, I have let the fuel sit in the generator (lawn mower, snowblower, etc.) and never had a problem starting. Other than, if it has sit for a few months, it will take two or three extra pulls since some fuel will have evaporated from the fuel bowl and the extra pulls pump fuel to the bowl.
I did NOT think of these idea about the fuel, two different honda repair shops told me the same thing and it works.
I have 2 of these and I have never had this problem. I use good gas (no ethanol) and always use seafoam. In the winter I drain the bowl. There's a screw on the bottom for that. Your problem might be you don't run them enough year round.
You are correct that non-ethanol gasoline is the fuel to use for any small engine. Where I live there is no ethanol free gas within 50 miles. Fuel stabilizers are good for extending fuel life. My generators are used for power outages so they only get used a few times a year. The screw on the bottom of the float bowl can be used to drain the fuel but the problem is getting the person who used it last to perform this step. Invariably this critical last step gets ignored so the next time they try and use it, it won't start
@@u50214 I thought so .... its not a common problem with the generator. Its how you're using them.
I too received the notice of recall (10/29/2012), it states that within the range of possibly affected serial numbers, the clamp connecting the fuel line at the gas tank may be positioned incorrectly. Under operation vibration may cause an adjacent fuel hose to chaffe and spill fuel. The fix suggested is to bring it into a honda dealer/service center for inspection and repositioning. They state that if the fuel line is damaged they'll replace. I'm going to just check it out myself. Will report.
Hope that helped....
Why go to all that trouble of putting in a petcock? 7:05? There is a drain screw and drain hose on the bottom of the float bowl!
That question was answered in the video.
Okay, I just saw your explanation. Again, www.pure-gas.org/ and problem solved.
@@OregonOldTimer Thanks for the links but where I live I would have to drive 75 miles which is not practical. If people can get ethanol free then that's a good option. The newer Hondas have changed their on/off switch so people can shut the fuel off and keep the genni running accomplishing the same thing. .
Great video thank you so much, a big help.
Can I be pedantic and point out that the 'screws' you refer to removing at the start are not screws but bolts. Bolts have a machine thread which to work always has to engage with a nut or a threaded hole. Screws screw into wood or other softish materials and never require a nut or other receiving thread to be functional. Thanks!
PS You're not BIll |Gates are you? Your accent is just like his.... Maybe a Washington/Seattle accent!
I have owned my EU2000i for about 6 years now and I dont drain the carb unless im not using my generator for more than 4 months. I have never had any problems with hard starting or any other issues at all. I usually try and run the generator for about 10 minutes each month to make sure its ready to go if the power goes out. I would guess the gas you are using might be the issue.
I have taken this generator to local technician and he said it's starting with putting fuel directly and he has to check it with putting gasoline into tank and see if it's fuel pump working I don't know if he is playing with me to rob me money for fuel pump please advise anyone ?
The fuel pump in this model uses vacuum from the engine to pulse a rubber diaphragm to pump fuel. These do wear out, especially if they have been sitting dry. In the video I mention why I put the petcock after the fuel pump so it always contained fuel. There is/was another modification that caused this pump to run dry and if the generator wasn't used for a long period the diaphragm dried out and failed.
@@u50214 great advice
Thanks for your time and help
stabil marine works the best.
I just bought a new one and it has a different switch now so you can shut just the fuel off then shut the whole thing off.
Yes, the new ones have that nice feature. My genies are nearly 20 years old now and still working great. A testimony to quality.
@@u50214 Wow, that was fast on the old reply. Cheers
As stated already. Theres a screw out front at the bottom of the carb. Turn the screw and the bowl empties on the ground outside of the service door. Easy peasy
Yes, as stated in the video that drain is there and also the reasons I chose not to use it. If it is so easy I wonder why so many generators like these get all clogged up from stale fuel. Hummmm, could it be that people don't use the easy peasy screw to drain the fuel? Yep! Its so easy peasy most don't use it. Duh!
Or you could just use Ethanol free fuel in it all the time! I do, and 10 years later I've never been in the carb yet! Also use same fuel in all my seasonal equipment including lawn and garden
I wish I could get it. Not available in my area unless I want to drive a couple of hours to get it.
My priest has had three of these Honda generators that have stopped working. tonight the generator was running and stopped and will not start again, any ideas? He uses it a few hours every night. HELP TIA What I meant is that this is the newest one he has bought, six months old, Honda 1200 watt generator. It was running, then stopped, he tried to restart it and it wont start.
+Benita Roberts It is hard to know exactly the cause but if all 3 stopped running right around the same time then you could have bad gas and a clogged up fuel system. Components of the generator will need to be disassembled and cleaned and fresh tank of gasoline. Following the manufactures maintenance procedures will help eliminate future issues, or you can do what I did and install a petcock. Both work, my method is just a bit cleaner easier to do. Since I have made this modification to my generators I no longer have problems with clogged up fuel systems. If you can find ethanol free gasoline that too will go along way to keeping your generators running trouble free.
You do know there's a fuel shut off on the gas cap?
But I guess that just shuts off it's air venting and not the gas.
Duh! Really? No kidding! Wow! Thanks for the comment.
Yamaha makes an excellent fuel shutoff petcock that solves this very poor design issue in these Honda generators. The part number is EF2000IS, and it even includes a 2KW generator :)
Why would anyone "store" a generator? It's a generator. It should always have fresh fuel in it and regularly run, if even for just a few minutes. It's SUPPOSED to be ready to go at a moment's notice, not drained and put on shelf for seals and gaskets to dry up.
rts This generator is a perfect size for camping. Unfortunately, I only have limited time during the year for vacation. For that reason I store my generator for several months at a time. Please tell me where you saw: "It's SUPPOSED to be ready to go at a moment's notice, not drained and put on shelf for seals and gaskets to dry up". That does NOT seem to be mentioned in my manual. In FACT, my manual has a page and a half of instructions regarding "STORAGE". There are instructions for: "less than 1 month", "1 to 2 months", "2 months to 1 year", and "1 year or more". Perhaps you were JOKING when you asked: 'Why would anyone "store" a generator'?
Do whatever you want. I just know how a carbs internals react to being drained and stored for long periods, regardless if fuel stabilizer was used.
Todd Medlock You can either use the drain screw to drain the carburetor or install a petcock like I have done. Either way you choose, it has the same results by draining the carburetor float bowl. I own several of the eu2000i and one of them is stored for long periods of time, sometimes up to two years between use. I experience no problems as long as the gas is drained out of the float bowl. Slowly pulling the start cord 2-3 times and then a good yank starts it right up, runs smooth with no problems. If you can find non E gas (no ethanol) you better your chances of trouble free operation.
I always keep mine in a backpack so to be ready at a moments notice. The hardest part is sleeping at night with it on.
I only have to use my generators during hurricane season and not every year do we have power outages. I always run out all gas and change the oil in my generators after power is back on. Foolish to keep them with gas for longer than a month which can cause problem.
The simple answer to that problem is use the drain screw provided by Honda.. when its not going to be used turn off fuel/ engine, remove front cover and drain screw out 2 turns untill fuel stops flowing...It can now sit for ages... When you bought it from a dealer this step is usualy shown to you so you dont have this problem.
Thank you for your comment however you missed the point of what the video was about.
***** .
If a generator is run dry after use, to assure the fuel system won't be filled with varnish residue, the pump will fail? Not a good design, as I've made a habit of running all my small engines dry before storing them. Especially if there's any chance that fuel containing ethanol has been run through it.. The pump is looking a little trickier to get to than is the carburetor...
Based on people's experience (from years ago) they reported difficulty getting the pump to re-prime. While that can be interpreted as a failure, that may not be the case. What may have been the issue is the amount of time it took pulling on the rope to get fuel to fill the lines, pump and float bowl before the engine would start. I chose to put the petcock after the fuel pump because it only takes a few pulls to fill the float bowl in order to get the engine to start. The fact is, regardless of whether the rubber/neoprene in these pumps have fuel or not, all eventually fail. The same goes for the hundreds of small engines that use these pump designs. But it has been my experience that keeping these pumps filled with fuel instead of draining, exposing them to air has contributed to it's longevity. I have two of these Honda's and they have been filled with gasoline for the better part of 20 years and they still work great.
@@u50214 Thanks! that was a quick reply, and it fits what I've found out since, that the pump was replaced at a shop, but the fuel lines are dry, the petcock seems to be opening and closing alright, but while I was that deep into it, I removed the tank, and drained the milky looking fuel from it. Since the pump has valves that permit only one way flow of fuel, I'm considering reassembling it all, filling with fuel, then putting a slight pressure in the tank to assist in getting fuel to the pump... at least until I see fuel coming out the drain in the carb, knowing that the lines are now primed...
I am in the process of converting mine to Propane to fix this problem.
you will not have the same power using propane
It is the ethanol buy gas without ethanol
You Betcha! In Canada this would be Shell V-Power. I use it in my lawnmower as well, which starts first pull every time in the spring. I have an inward chuckle watching my neighbours wear their arms out! :)
Put a peg/clamp on the pump outlet until the motor runs out of fuel......
And I do use clear gas and everything
This is not a problem with Honda generators. It is a problem with shit fuel in any intermittently used gas motor. Use non-ethanol (aka real) gas to minimize (not eliminate) gunk issues. In addition to crap, ethanol is fkn stupid.
MARINE FORMULA FUEL STABILIZER thats what i been useing for 6 years now, my generator been sitting 21/2 years it started right up , i use it on everthing i own
Its caused by cheap gas that contains ethanol
YouWrasse IsMine Correct!
The politicians that voted for that ethanol crap need to be gutted and hung. Eu1000i no problems for years until one day had to put a tank of ethanol laced fuel in it. Now it won't start after last shutdown. Fuel getting to the bowl but nothing out of the jet.
Plain gas will dry and leave varnish residue. Ethanol has the effect of drying out vinyl/neoprene/nitrile materials. Once said varnish forms, it will clog (partially/fully) small carb jets.
Re your inverter, see if the carb's diaphragm is in good condition, fuel lines/filter still working freely.
Somewhere Usa I run mine out of gas before storage every year. So far ive had not one issue.
Very good. God Bless.
I just run non-ethanol gasoline and have never had a problem. I have never winterized mine or had to clean the carb for the last 12 years. Starts up fine every year. If I know I will be not running it for over a year I drain the gas and run the generator till it stops to remove all the gas from the carb.
Non-Oxygen fuel and Pri-G, never a problem. Even had it stored over two years, started on first pull.
Non oxygen fuel?
run premium gasoline in there problem solved
DO NOT BUY A HONDA GENERATOR -bought at 2000 on 8/1/12 9/21/12 was notified that there is a re call BUT honda doesn;'t have a fix today 10/10/12 honda national customer relations said it would take at least 1 month longer before fix on gas line clamp so I paid $ 1000.00 and without back up this winter-- very poor design and customer service !!!
You're going is coming from the ethanol gas. Use gas without ethanol and you'll no longer have that issue.
Sorry, in a metal gas can, condensation can occur w/ non-ethanol gas. The tank is plastic, but if the supply can isn't, there can be an issue.
Just buy a yamaha !