Owner of mk6 TDI here. I have a Stage 2 Malone, Whitbread CP3 pump, Bistein B14 coilovers & more. Although my golf will never be a huge powerhouse, I absolutely love the car. In terms of fuel additives, Although i use power service service on the regular, one of my mechanics periodically suggested using ATF Dexron lll as a fuel additive. It actually works pretty well
Have 290K on my 11 Jetta TDI/CJAA It’s been the best car I ever owned and want to do some upgrades like CP3. I was using Power Service until I found out how much better Hot Shots EDT was. Cheers from Colorado! 🤙🏻
I currently have a mk7 Golf TDI and a 2014 Beetle TDI. Both have been excellent with minimal problems. The Beetle only has 46K on it, but I'm doing the timing belt in short order, as it's 10 years old. I did the mk7's belt at 100K miles because it was 9 years old, and I like the peace of mind. The only problems I've had with either car is the batteries have had to be replaced. I had a mk4 Golf TDI before the mk7, and it had just short of 400K miles on it before I sold it. That thing was a tank!
If you have a DPF and the DPF light is on... try running some Hot Shots Diesel Extreme fuel system cleaner through it. The ecu sets the light off when it detects 200L or more... I drove from Phoenix to Columbus, NE and part way into New Mexico, the DPF light turned off. I continued running the HS cleaner (at max mix ratio) the full 1300 miles, and checked the DPF with my computer when I got to my destination. The DPF check came in at 7L... it went from +200L down to 7L. Sometimes the snake oil will surprise you. I was using their oil additive before and this is my first TDI with a CP4.
Bought my ‘14 VW JSW TDI DSG back in Sept. ‘21 at 20,100 miles. Basically 2.5 years later I’m at 75,500 miles. I’ve been zoomin around and this is such a great car for road trips and daily commuter. I’m trying to be like you and study up on this car to make it last forever with simple preventative maintenance and know when to save up for bigger stuff. Just sucks I’m in an emissions county. I sticker bombed it like three days in cuz I’m committed to keeping it forever.
Also I’m new into this car upgrading thing, so I need some help here. I just bought an mk7 Passat TDi & it’s automatic. Will tuning & doing all these improvements work the same way as a Manual?
I'm not too far from you in Madison, WI. I just got back into a TDI and happen to be hunting around yt for random TDI thoughts. Came across a few of your videos and they are QUALITY. I don't know if you a natural or if you've been at it awhile but either way - KEEP GOING. Cheers.
Thank you! It really does mean a lot. I used to make some gaming content back in the day (over a decade ago I started), learned a lot about video/audio editing. At this point, much more of my free time and passion is cars. There's a handful of gaps in the VW/Euro TH-cam landscape where I saw a spot to fit in. At some point, I'd like to start documenting bigger projects (HumbleMechanic, ShopDap, James Cooperider style) but at this point, I'm happy to share the knowledge I have and document the process of some repairs/maintenance I end up doing on my "fleet."
I’ve had my 2012 golf tdi for 6 years after my diesel gate warranty ran out I went for a Malone stage 2 and rawtek exhaust. I now have a cr170 I plan to install on it!
@@fdroepman8351 absolutely right she’s been a dream, I have outright owned the car for 3 years going on 4 and plan to keep and teach my kids how to drive a real manual transmission!
I’d like to add one more fuel additive option. I use opti-lube xl in my tdi. Also, I’d like to add another benefit to egr delete specifically. You eliminate soot going into the cylinders. Soot, at a microscopic level, is actually very sharp, hard and abrasive. Egr causes a massive spike in cylinder wear. For instance, before egr, heavy duty diesels would easily hit multi million miles before requiring an overhaul(overhaul includes cylinder liners and pistons Amon other things) but after egr was regulated, you’d be pretty lucky to it a million. Dpf and scr also further reduced engine and turbocharger lifespan further. There has been bypass filters out there for a long time in the aftermarket world but they’re starting to become mandatory from the oem’s to slow the reduction in life span. You gotta understand that fuel quality, oil quality, metallurgy, part design and manufacturing quality has made leaps and bounds since before egr was mandatory but life span keeps dropping for diesels.
@@eurodriven2507 not a problem bud. I spent so much time trying to figure out the best ways to make our tdi’s last forever. I’d really like to add a bypass filter setup to the oil setup to see how it does. The factory filter only filters down to 40 micron iirc which is still way too large. Also, as far as the fuel filtration goes, a popular mod is to replace the oem 40 micron filter setup with a aftermarket housing and caterpillar 1-2 micron filter(can’t remember but it’s single digits).
I’ve just bought a 2018 tdi golf in silver white. I wouldn’t have bought a white car but this is a lovely colour and pleased i went for the colour as thought it would get dirty all the time but very easy to live with. My last car was a 1,9 tdi golf and very reliable and that’s why I went for the 2 litre this time. I think Vw can suffer either way rust issues but I’ve got in top of the paint chipping sand I’ve also taken the sponge blocks from underneath the front arches
@@eurodriven2507 in England yes it’s 12 years but trying to get Vw to do it is another story as they’ll say it’s stone chippings but when I had the 1.9 tdi golf they did renew the 2 front wings . I hate to see rust on a car and I’ve seen videos where people are taking the blocks out underneath the wing. I’ve had the car for 4 weeks and have noticed a couple paint chips beside back wheel arch but I’ve now rubbed them down and applied primer and paint . I think these areas are common becouse every older golf I’ve seen allways have rust around this area and it must be off the tyres flicking stones on to the bottom arches. I’ve applied a smear coating of ct1 silicone so any more stones hit that area they should bounce off 🫶
Do a Kerma TDI cold air intake(remove the whole entire air box). Do a Malone Tuning stage 2, Dynamic Idle, Glow Plug Duration, and fuel pump calibration. Do a Rawtek Max Performance DPF Delete with resonator and high flow CAT. Do a full EGR valve, EGR Cooler removal, and do an intake swirler removal. Do a CP-3 fuel pump upgrade. With any car, remove all the cheapies and replace with top quality aftermarket products.
@@aaron___6014egr lowers temps by putting your exhaust gasses into the combustion chamber. This can decrease engine life by contaminating oil with soot. In general higher combustion temps means better efficiency. This can be tuned with afr like any other motor to keep temps in safe range but if temps are what you are worried about egr is not the best way. Egr’s sole purpose is to reduce the amount of NOx that the engine produces when running at optimal efficiency.
@@rileyhance318 but the exhaust goes through the DPF and then a low pressure EGR filter before the cooler. So the amount of soot that reaches the intake should be greatly reduced. When I cleaned my EGR at 105k miles it has very little soot. Granted I do mostly 100 mile drives and use 507.00 spec oil.
On a 6spd TDI? I know there's a certain year for the transmissions where it's okay, but by and large, it'll eat synchros. Lots of documentation about the issue.
Nice, got a new to me car with 230k miles. I have a timing belt kit sitting but will hold off until I get the other components you mention. Then the bypass kit when its in stock + clean the manifold and get a kerma tune (I'm not embarrassed that I need to oass emissions)
You could do everything right but one bad fill up will destroy it all. So thats why FUEL is the most important factor. However, mine had a DPF replaced at 66k because the previous owner only did short trips used the wrong oil.
Love your videos! You’re the best for TDI content. If you were to remake this video I think you should also talk about the dual mass flywheel issues. I know it’s not an engine problem but I’ve seen quite a few go bad suddenly.
Thank you! I thought about mentioning the DMF upgrades not too long after releasing it. I think I actually did mention it in my Mk6 TDI buyers guide video... Poor oversight on my part 😅
I started with VW diesels in the 70s, ever since the Cummins TSB for their ISX came out recommending using Valvoline Restore to clean up engines I've given our TDIs that oil every 20 K, WOW the cleaning of the engine has made the cars better, perfomance, mileage, and the oil doesn't get as black, wish the new Protect, Restore was a bit better oil I'd try it as a steady diet. The Cummins stuff is pricey. My last piece of advice, CHANGE your oil at 1/2 the recommended Ks, Ive got over 500k on 2 of them, the MK 4s both got 2 cdims apiece, got a LLY Duramax with over 400 K miles, and stll no engine, tranny issues. I tell people oil changes cost lots, but not changing cost a whole lot more.
@@eurodriven2507 i went with darkside, shipping cost me a lot but they dont use the sketchy plug for their egr cooler delete, it has a silicon cap. It required some modification to the little piece bolted to the turbo (dremel grinding it down to make it a smooth circle) so that the cap would clamp on securely. Also i didnt use their water line joiner, i just bought new hose at autozone for $7 and ran a new one. All in all it ends up being a very clean and reliable delete.
@@eurodriven2507 darkside, the shipping fee sucked but it comes with a silicon cap instead of the sketchy dorman plug. Requires a little dremeling of the turbo egr inlet piece (easily removable) so that the clamp seats nicely around the whole thing but I think its definitely worth the hassle knowing its not going to fall out or fail and send a piece of metal into the turbo. I also didn't use the coolant line joiner from the kit, i just bought some heater hose from autozone and ran a new line, its only about 2 feet and looks much better and also has less leak potential.
the fuel filter casing is filled with the turn of key. just turn the key on and off several time without starting the car, and the filter housing will be primed.
A great video and I enjoyed it! How do you get 55mi/gallon!? Maybe those additives on your fuel? I have 2010 tdi and I've had it for last 5 years. Last year, I deleted DPF since the warranty was over and my dpf was bad. Now i am getting about 42mi/g on highway average speed of 75 to 80. I notice If I keep the speed below 70 it dramatically increase the fuel millage. Before the delete I was averaging around 38mi/gallon. NYC area mix of local drive and highway. The delete made my TDI so much better but man 55mi/gallon is insane!
Manual transmission, 17" wheels (lots of people upgrade to 18"), drafting when possible, sticking to the speed limit, letting myself lose a little speed uphill, getting above the speed limit by about 10 when going downhill and letting that give me a little "push" before the next stretch.
Great information. Have you personally installed the whitbread metering kit? I’ve got 230k on my ‘13 TDI and I’m concerned about the CP4. Strongly considering ordering the kit this week.
I have not, I run additives and I change my filter regularly, if I saw any metal shavings, I'd probably order a CP3 kit instead of the "disaster kit" with the metering valve. My plan otherwise is to go CP3 once my timing belt is due next (in roughly 80k miles) since it'll be easily accessible. If my area had especially bad fuel quality and/or for some reason I wasn't able to be on top of the filter changes, I'd definitely do it. It is cheap insurance all things considered. The kit costs what one injector does.
@@eurodriven2507 that’s fair. This is what I’m thinking. I live in Canada and had never ran additives. I’ve just ordered Stanadyne Lubricity as it is backed by VW. I’m also about 100k away from my next timing belt change therefore I’m gambling until then. I think I’ll order the kit for peace of mind. Then go CP3 at my next belt change.
I don't have a block heater, I don't have a frostheater either. My buddy however, does have a frostheater. Very useful for him in the dead of MN winters. I garage park and use my Jeep for most driving in the winter, I would still like one though!
Hi, nice innovative video, i m in toronto, do you or anybody watching have any recommended good reliable mechanic to do all these modifications. i m very much interested to do for my 2014 vw jetta TDI done 130000 km. My car is still on warranty till 200000 km or till sep 2024. Plz suggest, thanks
so whats the census on notorious CP4 fuel pumps, are there any revisions that are good or they are all sheet? Also, where was the CP3 pump used at, which models?
CP4 is a problem, but not as common as the internet would lead you to believe, especially if you take care of it. Fuel filters, additives, and getting from good stations will let them last hundreds of thousands of miles. I don't believe any US VW's have a CP3 from the factory.
@@eurodriven2507 so do all of the MK6 tdi 2.0 have the same cp4 version, or there are diffferent variants of this pump? Cause few years back I read that the 2011 and 2012 have this problem sorted out, but doing the research again yesterday I saw the opposite, that the earlier 2009 are better :D
Love your info.. Would like your opinion on a ea288 2015 vw golf sportswagen. 80k almost. I trust my dealership. But I don't trust 80k timing belt change. What's so different that vw requires 80k on mk7 tdi? Would love to hear your opinion
My parents had a 2015 sportwagen. Aside from a random DEF issue during the "polar vortex" a few years ago in MN, it was a fantastic car. The DEF system is definitely a weak point though and I wouldn't personally own one that wasn't in warranty or deleted. From what I'm reading on the "myturbodiesel" forum, the Mk7 TDI is the same 130k miles for the timing belt interval, but interestingly, I'm seeing people say 130k or 5yrs instead of the MK6 130k or 10yrs. A TDI guru will probably know better than the dealership honestly. Another couple of things to consider about the MK7. It is not independent rear suspension, it's a solid beam. There wasn't enough space to implement an IRS system with the DEF tank. If you were to delete the DEF system on a Mk7, you can swap in an IRS from a different MQB car that came with IRS. Beter handling, comfort, etc. The MK7 TDI, for reasons I don't know, has a belt driven oil pump, instead of the standard chain driven oil. It's internal, it's supposedly lifetime. I haven't heard of one failing, but the idea of a high mileage, rubber belt, soaked in oil 24/7 does concern me. The Mk7 definitely has advantages and disadvantages compared to the Mk6, but I haven't personally owned or worked on one. The entire time my parents had theirs, it was in warranty so the most I ever did was check the air filter and put air in the tires. At the end of it, I believe my dad said he prefered his Mk6 wagon, which was bought back during "DieselGate". He found the Mk6 seats much more comfortable and any of the Mk7 advantages were negligeable. He also didn't like needing to keep a bottle of DEF in the garage or needing to buy a bottle in the middle of roadtrips. It should only need to be refilled once every 3 or 4 fill-ups, but on roadtrips down to Florida and back, it would definitely come up. That's a non-issue with a tune and deIete, but they traded it in for a Tiguan before warranty was up so that was never really considered.
When I had my 2010 Golf TDI (wrecked by drunk driver), my biggest problem was the icing / water in the intake during winter. I remember VW came out with a modification, but I never got it before my car was gone. Was that problem ever solved?
Seems like there have been a handful of revised fixes from VW. The other solution is to deIete + tune out the EGR. I'm not sure if the fix is still available and/or at all affordable for most or if it was mainly a fix for those who ran into the issue while still under dieselgate warranty. I'm unfamiliar as it has never affected me. Unsure if I have any revision of a fix done to mine.
Thanks for clarifying, Interestingly the Mk5 interval is only 120,000 kms as opposed to the 209,000 kms for the Mk6 that was stated here for the timing. Cheers, Riley@@eurodriven2507
If the ALH is still going and you don't feel like you really want/need the quality of life improvements, I would keep the ALH. The 2.0 TDI will last if you XYZ. An ALH doesn't care, it'll just go as long as you do timing and oil on time. I nearly bought two ALH's before I decided to get my Mk6, in the end, I'm glad I have something with modern amenities, but I'm still looking for an ALH to be a backup/winter car.
I have had the 2003 ALH jetta, currently I have a bew golf, Brm jetta and a cjaa CC, I personally think the Alhs are overated. The Bew and Cjaa are equally good or better in some regards.
Hly sht!, I had a water pump and timing belt done at aprox 50k, I want to believe that I an extra 100k miles you know “ I bought peace of mind” but now I’m wondering if I should consider less miles now
@@greyfots well maybe if you do it at the official stealers dealership with oem vw parts and the stealership gives you written warranty for 100k, then you can go for a 100k..
It depends on the TDI. For the ALH, you want 5w40 with VW505.00 or 505.01 spec. For the PD engines (BRM and BEW for example), you want 5w40 with VW505.01. There are some 5w30 VW505.01 oils, but the consensus is that 5w40 will help with wear. For a Mk6 or Mk7 with the common rail engines, you want 5w30 or 0w30 with VW507.00 spec.
When I installed a cold air intake on my 2014 jetta tdi i got a PO401 for EGR insufficient flow like 2 weeks later. I switched back to the stock airbox and cleared the codes and haven't got anything yet and it's been a couple months now. I've never seen this before but there was a small hose coming out of the bottom of the airbox and I didn't think twice about it because I was excited to finally have it installed, but could that have been for the EGR? Like have I just been sucking straight dust into it for those two weeks? idk if this has happened to anyone but I just really want to put it back on because it drove and sounded great, but if I'm just damaging the EGR by having it open like that then forget it
The EGR gets airflow to and from the motor with hard pipes. The small hose piece you're probably thinking of is basically a little tube that helps get some hot air to the airbox for cold start reasons. That all said, is your TDI in warranty? If you're ready to reinstall the airbox anytime you go in for work, I see no reason not to run it. If you're out of warranty, run it.
@@eurodriven2507 I still have about 40k to go for my warranty but I live in Arizona rn so I'll never have to worry about the cold lol. But thank you so much man, I haven't had it for too long but it's good to know it's not something I screwed up. Putting it back on asap
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
Owner of mk6 TDI here. I have a Stage 2 Malone, Whitbread CP3 pump, Bistein B14 coilovers & more.
Although my golf will never be a huge powerhouse, I absolutely love the car.
In terms of fuel additives, Although i use power service service on the regular, one of my mechanics periodically suggested using ATF Dexron lll as a fuel additive.
It actually works pretty well
Have 290K on my 11 Jetta TDI/CJAA It’s been the best car I ever owned and want to do some upgrades like CP3. I was using Power Service until I found out how much better Hot Shots EDT was. Cheers from Colorado! 🤙🏻
I currently have a mk7 Golf TDI and a 2014 Beetle TDI. Both have been excellent with minimal problems. The Beetle only has 46K on it, but I'm doing the timing belt in short order, as it's 10 years old. I did the mk7's belt at 100K miles because it was 9 years old, and I like the peace of mind. The only problems I've had with either car is the batteries have had to be replaced. I had a mk4 Golf TDI before the mk7, and it had just short of 400K miles on it before I sold it. That thing was a tank!
If you have a DPF and the DPF light is on... try running some Hot Shots Diesel Extreme fuel system cleaner through it. The ecu sets the light off when it detects 200L or more... I drove from Phoenix to Columbus, NE and part way into New Mexico, the DPF light turned off. I continued running the HS cleaner (at max mix ratio) the full 1300 miles, and checked the DPF with my computer when I got to my destination. The DPF check came in at 7L... it went from +200L down to 7L. Sometimes the snake oil will surprise you. I was using their oil additive before and this is my first TDI with a CP4.
Bought my ‘14 VW JSW TDI DSG back in Sept. ‘21 at 20,100 miles.
Basically 2.5 years later I’m at 75,500 miles. I’ve been zoomin around and this is such a great car for road trips and daily commuter.
I’m trying to be like you and study up on this car to make it last forever with simple preventative maintenance and know when to save up for bigger stuff.
Just sucks I’m in an emissions county.
I sticker bombed it like three days in cuz I’m committed to keeping it forever.
I have a mk7 tdi that I recently just got a stage one remap on and it’s turned it into a completely different car for a diesel it’s quite quick now 👌🏻
Is it DSG or standard ?
Also I’m new into this car upgrading thing, so I need some help here. I just bought an mk7 Passat TDi & it’s automatic. Will tuning & doing all these improvements work the same way as a Manual?
I'm not too far from you in Madison, WI. I just got back into a TDI and happen to be hunting around yt for random TDI thoughts. Came across a few of your videos and they are QUALITY. I don't know if you a natural or if you've been at it awhile but either way - KEEP GOING. Cheers.
Thank you! It really does mean a lot. I used to make some gaming content back in the day (over a decade ago I started), learned a lot about video/audio editing. At this point, much more of my free time and passion is cars. There's a handful of gaps in the VW/Euro TH-cam landscape where I saw a spot to fit in. At some point, I'd like to start documenting bigger projects (HumbleMechanic, ShopDap, James Cooperider style) but at this point, I'm happy to share the knowledge I have and document the process of some repairs/maintenance I end up doing on my "fleet."
I’ve had my 2012 golf tdi for 6 years after my diesel gate warranty ran out I went for a Malone stage 2 and rawtek exhaust. I now have a cr170 I plan to install on it!
You only live once!
@@fdroepman8351 absolutely right she’s been a dream, I have outright owned the car for 3 years going on 4 and plan to keep and teach my kids how to drive a real manual transmission!
Link to what kit you got?
@@turbobriencan look it up easily.
I’d like to add one more fuel additive option. I use opti-lube xl in my tdi. Also, I’d like to add another benefit to egr delete specifically. You eliminate soot going into the cylinders. Soot, at a microscopic level, is actually very sharp, hard and abrasive. Egr causes a massive spike in cylinder wear. For instance, before egr, heavy duty diesels would easily hit multi million miles before requiring an overhaul(overhaul includes cylinder liners and pistons Amon other things) but after egr was regulated, you’d be pretty lucky to it a million. Dpf and scr also further reduced engine and turbocharger lifespan further. There has been bypass filters out there for a long time in the aftermarket world but they’re starting to become mandatory from the oem’s to slow the reduction in life span. You gotta understand that fuel quality, oil quality, metallurgy, part design and manufacturing quality has made leaps and bounds since before egr was mandatory but life span keeps dropping for diesels.
Thanks for the info, I'll add an Opti-Lube link in the description!
@@eurodriven2507 not a problem bud. I spent so much time trying to figure out the best ways to make our tdi’s last forever. I’d really like to add a bypass filter setup to the oil setup to see how it does. The factory filter only filters down to 40 micron iirc which is still way too large. Also, as far as the fuel filtration goes, a popular mod is to replace the oem 40 micron filter setup with a aftermarket housing and caterpillar 1-2 micron filter(can’t remember but it’s single digits).
Thank you for this. Best video ive found on this topic
I’ve just bought a 2018 tdi golf in silver white. I wouldn’t have bought a white car but this is a lovely colour and pleased i went for the colour as thought it would get dirty all the time but very easy to live with. My last car was a 1,9 tdi golf and very reliable and that’s why I went for the 2 litre this time. I think Vw can suffer either way rust issues but I’ve got in top of the paint chipping sand I’ve also taken the sponge blocks from underneath the front arches
@@marksaunby9594 Does VW have the corrosion warranty in your country?
@@eurodriven2507 in England yes it’s 12 years but trying to get Vw to do it is another story as they’ll say it’s stone chippings but when I had the 1.9 tdi golf they did renew the 2 front wings . I hate to see rust on a car and I’ve seen videos where people are taking the blocks out underneath the wing. I’ve had the car for 4 weeks and have noticed a couple paint chips beside back wheel arch but I’ve now rubbed them down and applied primer and paint . I think these areas are common becouse every older golf I’ve seen allways have rust around this area and it must be off the tyres flicking stones on to the bottom arches. I’ve applied a smear coating of ct1 silicone so any more stones hit that area they should bounce off 🫶
@@marksaunby9594what’s CT1 silicone?
AMAZING video. Please give us more tips these are really useful. Keep them coming.
Great video, been drawing a lot of inspirations from your content for my TDI. Thank you so much.
Great video.
Do a Kerma TDI cold air intake(remove the whole entire air box). Do a Malone Tuning stage 2, Dynamic Idle, Glow Plug Duration, and fuel pump calibration. Do a Rawtek Max Performance DPF Delete with resonator and high flow CAT. Do a full EGR valve, EGR Cooler removal, and do an intake swirler removal. Do a CP-3 fuel pump upgrade. With any car, remove all the cheapies and replace with top quality aftermarket products.
What do you mean by fuel pump calibration?
Just service the car as per service book, forgot all that 💩
EGR delete increases cylinder temps, which doesn't sound like a good way to increase life.
@@aaron___6014egr lowers temps by putting your exhaust gasses into the combustion chamber. This can decrease engine life by contaminating oil with soot. In general higher combustion temps means better efficiency. This can be tuned with afr like any other motor to keep temps in safe range but if temps are what you are worried about egr is not the best way. Egr’s sole purpose is to reduce the amount of NOx that the engine produces when running at optimal efficiency.
@@rileyhance318 but the exhaust goes through the DPF and then a low pressure EGR filter before the cooler. So the amount of soot that reaches the intake should be greatly reduced. When I cleaned my EGR at 105k miles it has very little soot. Granted I do mostly 100 mile drives and use 507.00 spec oil.
I use single mass flywheels on 3 mk6's one has clocked over 100k miles without issue on any of them. Valero brand.
On a 6spd TDI? I know there's a certain year for the transmissions where it's okay, but by and large, it'll eat synchros. Lots of documentation about the issue.
@@eurodriven2507yeah I heard conflicting things also using SMF.
Nice, got a new to me car with 230k miles. I have a timing belt kit sitting but will hold off until I get the other components you mention. Then the bypass kit when its in stock + clean the manifold and get a kerma tune (I'm not embarrassed that I need to oass emissions)
@@emilegoguely4032 MRTuning will set readiness with deletes if you need to pass emissions. Always an option. ("For off-road use")
You could do everything right but one bad fill up will destroy it all. So thats why FUEL is the most important factor. However, mine had a DPF replaced at 66k because the previous owner only did short trips used the wrong oil.
Great video Thanks!
Love your videos! You’re the best for TDI content. If you were to remake this video I think you should also talk about the dual mass flywheel issues. I know it’s not an engine problem but I’ve seen quite a few go bad suddenly.
Thank you! I thought about mentioning the DMF upgrades not too long after releasing it. I think I actually did mention it in my Mk6 TDI buyers guide video... Poor oversight on my part 😅
I had to replace my DMF at like 220k miles. I got the Luk latest revision. Is there ones any better?
I started with VW diesels in the 70s, ever since the Cummins TSB for their ISX came out recommending using Valvoline Restore to clean up engines I've given our TDIs that oil every 20 K, WOW the cleaning of the engine has made the cars better, perfomance, mileage, and the oil doesn't get as black, wish the new Protect, Restore was a bit better oil I'd try it as a steady diet. The Cummins stuff is pricey.
My last piece of advice, CHANGE your oil at 1/2 the recommended Ks,
Ive got over 500k on 2 of them, the MK 4s both got 2 cdims apiece, got a LLY Duramax with over 400 K miles, and stll no engine, tranny issues.
I tell people oil changes cost lots, but not changing cost a whole lot more.
my current bulletproof list:
on-time oil change, fuel, air filters, timing components
whitbread cp4 disaster kit
whitbread aluminum lower timing cover
osiris evo aluminum skid plate
full dpf, egr/cooler delete, race pipe
Still need:
swirl flap delete
cp3 swap
Fun bits:
full rawtek 3inch straight pipe
neuspeed turbo discharge pipe
dap short shifter
coilovers+wheels
Did you retain the ASV with the race pipe?
@@eurodriven2507 yeah just got rid of the egr valve and the egr tube that runs to the exhaust manifold
Which kit did you use? Been looking to do this and remove the EGR cooler, but haven't decided on which kit to go with.
@@eurodriven2507 i went with darkside, shipping cost me a lot but they dont use the sketchy plug for their egr cooler delete, it has a silicon cap. It required some modification to the little piece bolted to the turbo (dremel grinding it down to make it a smooth circle) so that the cap would clamp on securely. Also i didnt use their water line joiner, i just bought new hose at autozone for $7 and ran a new one. All in all it ends up being a very clean and reliable delete.
@@eurodriven2507 darkside, the shipping fee sucked but it comes with a silicon cap instead of the sketchy dorman plug. Requires a little dremeling of the turbo egr inlet piece (easily removable) so that the clamp seats nicely around the whole thing but I think its definitely worth the hassle knowing its not going to fall out or fail and send a piece of metal into the turbo.
I also didn't use the coolant line joiner from the kit, i just bought some heater hose from autozone and ran a new line, its only about 2 feet and looks much better and also has less leak potential.
the fuel filter casing is filled with the turn of key. just turn the key on and off several time without starting the car, and the filter housing will be primed.
Not true on a common rail, the older ones do work this way though.
@@eurodriven2507 if that true, its a yuge setback from vw.
A great video and I enjoyed it! How do you get 55mi/gallon!? Maybe those additives on your fuel? I have 2010 tdi and I've had it for last 5 years. Last year, I deleted DPF since the warranty was over and my dpf was bad. Now i am getting about 42mi/g on highway average speed of 75 to 80. I notice If I keep the speed below 70 it dramatically increase the fuel millage. Before the delete I was averaging around 38mi/gallon. NYC area mix of local drive and highway. The delete made my TDI so much better but man 55mi/gallon is insane!
Manual transmission, 17" wheels (lots of people upgrade to 18"), drafting when possible, sticking to the speed limit, letting myself lose a little speed uphill, getting above the speed limit by about 10 when going downhill and letting that give me a little "push" before the next stretch.
I’m not getting 55 mpg,s. I’m getting 42 same as you
I average 42-45 mpg highway. 11 Jetta tdi non deleted.
All good truths.
I used the t6 oil for about 120k mules too
Great information. Have you personally installed the whitbread metering kit? I’ve got 230k on my ‘13 TDI and I’m concerned about the CP4. Strongly considering ordering the kit this week.
I have not, I run additives and I change my filter regularly, if I saw any metal shavings, I'd probably order a CP3 kit instead of the "disaster kit" with the metering valve. My plan otherwise is to go CP3 once my timing belt is due next (in roughly 80k miles) since it'll be easily accessible. If my area had especially bad fuel quality and/or for some reason I wasn't able to be on top of the filter changes, I'd definitely do it. It is cheap insurance all things considered. The kit costs what one injector does.
@@eurodriven2507 that’s fair. This is what I’m thinking. I live in Canada and had never ran additives. I’ve just ordered Stanadyne Lubricity as it is backed by VW. I’m also about 100k away from my next timing belt change therefore I’m gambling until then. I think I’ll order the kit for peace of mind. Then go CP3 at my next belt change.
Do replace your CP-4 fuel pump with a CP-3 fuel pump.
Do you ever use a block heater in the winter?
Edit: Also thanks for the video! It’s great!!
I don't have a block heater, I don't have a frostheater either. My buddy however, does have a frostheater. Very useful for him in the dead of MN winters. I garage park and use my Jeep for most driving in the winter, I would still like one though!
Hi, nice innovative video, i m in toronto, do you or anybody watching have any recommended good reliable mechanic to do all these modifications. i m very much interested to do for my 2014 vw jetta TDI done 130000 km. My car is still on warranty till 200000 km or till sep 2024. Plz suggest, thanks
so whats the census on notorious CP4 fuel pumps, are there any revisions that are good or they are all sheet? Also, where was the CP3 pump used at, which models?
CP4 is a problem, but not as common as the internet would lead you to believe, especially if you take care of it. Fuel filters, additives, and getting from good stations will let them last hundreds of thousands of miles.
I don't believe any US VW's have a CP3 from the factory.
@@eurodriven2507 so do all of the MK6 tdi 2.0 have the same cp4 version, or there are diffferent variants of this pump? Cause few years back I read that the 2011 and 2012 have this problem sorted out, but doing the research again yesterday I saw the opposite, that the earlier 2009 are better :D
Love your info.. Would like your opinion on a ea288 2015 vw golf sportswagen. 80k almost. I trust my dealership. But I don't trust 80k timing belt change. What's so different that vw requires 80k on mk7 tdi? Would love to hear your opinion
My parents had a 2015 sportwagen. Aside from a random DEF issue during the "polar vortex" a few years ago in MN, it was a fantastic car. The DEF system is definitely a weak point though and I wouldn't personally own one that wasn't in warranty or deleted. From what I'm reading on the "myturbodiesel" forum, the Mk7 TDI is the same 130k miles for the timing belt interval, but interestingly, I'm seeing people say 130k or 5yrs instead of the MK6 130k or 10yrs. A TDI guru will probably know better than the dealership honestly.
Another couple of things to consider about the MK7. It is not independent rear suspension, it's a solid beam. There wasn't enough space to implement an IRS system with the DEF tank. If you were to delete the DEF system on a Mk7, you can swap in an IRS from a different MQB car that came with IRS. Beter handling, comfort, etc.
The MK7 TDI, for reasons I don't know, has a belt driven oil pump, instead of the standard chain driven oil. It's internal, it's supposedly lifetime. I haven't heard of one failing, but the idea of a high mileage, rubber belt, soaked in oil 24/7 does concern me.
The Mk7 definitely has advantages and disadvantages compared to the Mk6, but I haven't personally owned or worked on one. The entire time my parents had theirs, it was in warranty so the most I ever did was check the air filter and put air in the tires. At the end of it, I believe my dad said he prefered his Mk6 wagon, which was bought back during "DieselGate". He found the Mk6 seats much more comfortable and any of the Mk7 advantages were negligeable. He also didn't like needing to keep a bottle of DEF in the garage or needing to buy a bottle in the middle of roadtrips. It should only need to be refilled once every 3 or 4 fill-ups, but on roadtrips down to Florida and back, it would definitely come up. That's a non-issue with a tune and deIete, but they traded it in for a Tiguan before warranty was up so that was never really considered.
When I had my 2010 Golf TDI (wrecked by drunk driver), my biggest problem was the icing / water in the intake during winter. I remember VW came out with a modification, but I never got it before my car was gone. Was that problem ever solved?
Seems like there have been a handful of revised fixes from VW. The other solution is to deIete + tune out the EGR. I'm not sure if the fix is still available and/or at all affordable for most or if it was mainly a fix for those who ran into the issue while still under dieselgate warranty. I'm unfamiliar as it has never affected me. Unsure if I have any revision of a fix done to mine.
Hi mate, When you talk about "Miles" do you mean Kilometers? Thought the timing belt replacement was well before 130,000 Miles (209,000kms)?
Miles, not kilometers. The Mk6 TDI is 10k miles for oil, 20k miles for fuel filter, 130k miles for timing.
Thanks for clarifying, Interestingly the Mk5 interval is only 120,000 kms as opposed to the 209,000 kms for the Mk6 that was stated here for the timing. Cheers,
Riley@@eurodriven2507
I have an 03 alh with 330k and been thinking about buying a 2.0 tdi but I don't think they will last as long. My 03 should have a ton of life left
If the ALH is still going and you don't feel like you really want/need the quality of life improvements, I would keep the ALH. The 2.0 TDI will last if you XYZ. An ALH doesn't care, it'll just go as long as you do timing and oil on time. I nearly bought two ALH's before I decided to get my Mk6, in the end, I'm glad I have something with modern amenities, but I'm still looking for an ALH to be a backup/winter car.
I have had the 2003 ALH jetta, currently I have a bew golf, Brm jetta and a cjaa CC, I personally think the Alhs are overated. The Bew and Cjaa are equally good or better in some regards.
Have 290k on my 11 Jetta CJAA.
iv never heard anybody doing 100++ k miles timing belt change, we do it at 40k
Hly sht!, I had a water pump and timing belt done at aprox 50k, I want to believe that I an extra 100k miles you know “ I bought peace of mind” but now I’m wondering if I should consider less miles now
@@greyfots well maybe if you do it at the official stealers dealership with oem vw parts and the stealership gives you written warranty for 100k, then you can go for a 100k..
I've read that either 5W-30 oil or 5W-40 oil can be used for the TDI. Can anyone confirm if that's true?
It depends on the TDI.
For the ALH, you want 5w40 with VW505.00 or 505.01 spec.
For the PD engines (BRM and BEW for example), you want 5w40 with VW505.01. There are some 5w30 VW505.01 oils, but the consensus is that 5w40 will help with wear.
For a Mk6 or Mk7 with the common rail engines, you want 5w30 or 0w30 with VW507.00 spec.
When I installed a cold air intake on my 2014 jetta tdi i got a PO401 for EGR insufficient flow like 2 weeks later. I switched back to the stock airbox and cleared the codes and haven't got anything yet and it's been a couple months now. I've never seen this before but there was a small hose coming out of the bottom of the airbox and I didn't think twice about it because I was excited to finally have it installed, but could that have been for the EGR? Like have I just been sucking straight dust into it for those two weeks? idk if this has happened to anyone but I just really want to put it back on because it drove and sounded great, but if I'm just damaging the EGR by having it open like that then forget it
The EGR gets airflow to and from the motor with hard pipes. The small hose piece you're probably thinking of is basically a little tube that helps get some hot air to the airbox for cold start reasons.
That all said, is your TDI in warranty? If you're ready to reinstall the airbox anytime you go in for work, I see no reason not to run it. If you're out of warranty, run it.
@@eurodriven2507 I still have about 40k to go for my warranty but I live in Arizona rn so I'll never have to worry about the cold lol. But thank you so much man, I haven't had it for too long but it's good to know it's not something I screwed up. Putting it back on asap
Install a 1.9 pd instead 👍🏼
It's past your bedtime kiddo