I've worked in the trade for 26 years now and I've tried pretty much all the fuel additives. The ones to get in my view are either the Wynns Formula gold, the Wynns Professional or if you can find it the Valvoline Synpower fuel injection cleaner. All of those are fantastic fuel cleaners which work really well and work really fast. A good cheap runner up to these are the STP fuel injector cleaners which also do a good job, especially for the money.
I have been using Liqui Moly products for a long time and stand by them as quality products. Their Di Jectron and Jectron lines are as good as injector cleaners come. Their engine fuel system treatment works great. For oil additives Ceratec is top shelf as is their flushes and motor oils
Are premium fuels worth it? I have a 335d and have just started filling it up with Esso Supreme Diesel. It's 14p a litre more expensive so quickly adds up. Great videos by the way. Big fan..
With premium fuels it depends on the car really. If you get more power and see better MPG then in my book it is worth it. Both my diesel and A3 1.4T petrol show better economy and feel more lively with premium fuels. Over the long term injectors and DPF's etc stay cleaner for longer and this helps prolong the life of the car. Run a few tanks of either and compare your MPG to decide and if you notice the car makes better power then it is a plus. From experience you should see an improvement all round on the 335d. Thanks for your kind words of encouragement. I just do this for fun and it's great to know it helps out a few people along the way.
I watched a comprehensive test of oil additives by an oil engineer. Some can destroy your engine and at best they just shorten the life of your oil. Do not use any oil additive, just use quality oil. He did say fuel additives can help, but if you use top tier gas, you will not need anything!
Recently started using Dipetane fuel additive in my diesel car, with 110k miles, until using it I had problems with the stop start System that had been diagnosed as the module or alternator, actually turned out to be early symptoms of DPF blockage whereby the stop start knows not to activate as it will make the blockage worse. After two tanks of fuel using Dipetane the car runs perfect and the stop start issues are gone.
Forgot to say, mpg is around 2mpg better, this is based upon my commute being identical everyday and no other domestic use as we use wife’s car for city driving
Have successfully used a home made fuel additive for years, a particular blend of Isopropyl alcohol and mineral 2 stroke oil. Isopropyl seems to clean injectors, 2 stroke cleans the diesel pump.
Only additive I use is Redex FIC and I have been using it for 40 plus years across every car I have owned from Carburettor to GDI and Turbo charged, my cars have always ran smoother and cleaner, and fuel consumption stays on the level, I am not interested in power gains just keeping the fuel lines and valves , injectors nozzles and Cylinder crowns clean , modern fuels particularly E10 use Bio Ethanol which is high corrosive and can sludge up port injectors and Carburettor's. My current vehicle has a Turbo charged GDI engine I regularly inspect the combustion chambers every 3000 miles or so with my trusty borescope and the amount of carbon build up is extremely low that is down to Redex without a doubt, I try to mitigate intake valve carbon by having regular oil changes every 3000 to 5000 miles way before the manufacturer's recommendation of 7500 miles. Many people will say Redex is pointless on GDI engines well that's there opinion I know different. I always carry a bottle in the car its preventative maintenance.
BG makes a good product. No bs. If theyre selling it, it's for a good reason. Thier transmission additives did wonders on a high mileage vehicle. Quick clean and ATC plus.
I only ever use octane booster when I can't get 99Ron to help prevent pinging as the engine gets hotter (motorcycle) also use a few drops of Liquid Molly in the bevel (shaft) drive but I always leave the engine oil and gear box oil alone, oils today are a vast improvement over oils in the past where additives where fairly common in use.
Used to be fairly narrow minded when it comes to additives seeing them as snake oil but here I stand corrected... first, by pretty much everyone in the car business I ve been in touch with over the years, then by my own research and finally trial and testing myself. The two additives I now strongly believe in for Diesels are 1. cetane boosters like Liqui Moly s 5140 & similar (they basically turn normal Diesel into premium at an overall cheaper price) 2. Diesel system cleaners once or twice a year (like Liqui s 5156). Furthermore, most told me that for my old but beloved A3 1.9 tdi that I kept coz it was my first new car, Liqui s Ceratec would be really good coz the main issue with those PDs (aside from carbon build up) is wear on the cam shaft... also the reason why most run 5w40 instead of the officially recommended 5w30 oil. I personally have been running 5w30 so far as it never consumed any oil but the more I checked, the more I m tempted to also switch to 5w40... It s silly but to me even that switch worries me for some reason (like never change a running team)... and then there even is the Ceratec option... TorqueCars, do you guys have any experience with Ceratec and/or changing from 5w30 to 5w40 on PD Tdis?
I have some experience with Ceratec. I have used it twice on my Chevrolet Spark which i use for winter an city driving. I have used it twice in the time span of two years, so every other year i would add half a bottle (one bottle is for 5L of oil and the Spark needs 2,5L of oil) and the other half i would share with my neighbor. The effect i could clearly feel on my Spark was that during winter cold cranking and start it would start easier and which still cold the engine would behave like a warmed up engine. So i definitely recommend the Ceratec if your engine is suitable for it. I have never used it with my Ford C-Max 1.0 Ecoboost as i worry it may be detrimental to the wet belt it has for the oil pump. If it was safe i would definitely use it, but i am afraid as i can't find a solid info that the Ceratec is safe for the wet belt.
I worked with Honda in Japan some years ago. I wouldn’t recommend any form of oil additive. You need to make sure you’re using the correct specification of engine oil. Fuel additive is an entirely different product. Only use one of these that contain Polyetheramine AKA PEA.
Additives for diesel is relatively safe. It helps with clogging and prevents corossion of injectors. Here in Czech republic I can buy diesel without eco component. I am adding VIF diesel every time. My injectors are in perfect condition. I had dismantled engine on Skoda Octavia in 135k km. Every part of engine was like brand new. I change oil every 8k. I use Liqui Moly Ceratec every oil change - my own experiment. 200t on clock right now, no oil consumption, runs flawlessly. I can not recommend to everybody. Ceratec contains Ca which makes corrosive stuff for every engine. Come may resist more some not. I recommend my friends Ceratec in tuned cars as well, but it is in engine just for few laps or week and then I will change oil a put the new one without any additive. I recommend to everybody who own f.e. S14 of any similar gem. Ceratec is really good, but it always depends on condition on engine etc. I definitely can not recommend to use additives or ceratec with oils like Valvoline Restore & Protect, this is specific oil and super sensitive to any other stuff in it. To all known to this day, Valvoline Restore & Protect is the best oil nowadays. With this oil you dont need additives. In extreme conditions you should do oil change f.e. put Ceratec + VR1 Racing, then come back to Restore & Protect to clean your engine during the next oil change. I can not recommend engine flushes very often. Some microfilm of carbon is good when you have certain wear on your engine. Depends on the conditions of engine. If you want to flush use Liqui Moly or TEC2000. So no snake oil, but it depends on engine, condition, and your aim. Perfect condition with Ceratec is always better than without it. It has boron. But not every engine has proper oil drilling which can take Ceratec. Russian BMW forum reported wear on the crank with ceratec, but we do now know the consequences of driving. It seems some engines can be damaged in case of more wear with Ceratec. It also need special approach. Put Ceratec bottle to hot water. Drain hot oil from your car. Keep warm the new oil(just the exact volume minus the volume (of Ceratec bottle/bottles) engine neds to not harm the concentration), put hot ceratec in it. Shake it properly to mix it. Then put in hot engine and go for a run as fast as you can go. Make f.e. 50km as a min, not hesitate to redline after while. Then you are ready. I am also very satisfied with LM MOS2(LM41) - absolute no worries about it, it was invented for DB605, works good to this days. I put 1,5 bottle in 730d every 8k km. I go for concervative approach with my BMW - MOS2 and not Ceratec. Anyway BMW original oil LL04 is highly additived, not such need to add more. /// Premium fuels vs regular with own addities - I go for own additives. I put for all of my cars overadditived diesel. It can prolong lifespan of injectors drastically, but not if you are running in low rpm and eco mode. For a certain engines it can safe your wallet in case of DI rail and pump. Clogged injectors are causing overheating of the DI pump to extreme, lower PS outpus as well, you can easily lost 5-20kw of power in case of clogged injectors. If your engine has DI pump with worse manufacturing tolerances not using additived diesel can be felt in your wallet soon. Stay safe! 🤞
PS. I am talking about serious use additives(longevity, more response, slight lower consumption), not bastards who wants hide some hydraulic lifter noises.
An oil additive that I have used in every car that I have had over the last 25+ years is "ACTIV8" Just watch the video here on TH-cam and be totally amazed, I would like a comment from anyone who can tell me how this product works. It cuts out 90% of all engine and manual gearbox wear. If you lose ALL your sump oil the engine will NOT seize up. For a one-litre bottle is about £85, but you only need 250 cc after an oil and filter change, this will last for 4 oil changes. It is the heat from the engine and manual gearbox that activates this product to stick to all moving metal parts, hence you have Activ8 rubbing against Activ8, this gives you a massive reduction in wear, this will also increase your mileage with fuel and give you about an extra 10 BHP due to the lack of friction, as I say watch the video on TH-cam and explain if you can how this works.
this increases internal engine drag substantially, lowering performance for what I consider zero gain, so long as you use a quality product like valvoline full synthetic oils, which i highly recommend... my dad was a race car mechanic and the team he was on won both the Indy and stock car races... ever heard of A.J. Foyt? edited to say I know nothing about diesal engines, other than the science and mechanics of them, i have never rebuilt one... I do know gasoline engines, so my comments are just for gas.
What is your experience and background to make a statement on additives? I ran honda GX200 bench test engine trailing various fuels, additives, octane boosters, etc. And some work very well, and actually help with deposits and cleaner burn. The only octane boosters containing MMT created magnesium deposits in high dosages. And to add my 2p on octane boosters, with right additives like said MMT, or toulene, xylene actually work well. Most modern cars have different maps and will adapt to higher octane and advance the timing based on knock sensors providing right info. But i do agree cheap additives are nothing but naphta anake oil
Toluene is much better than acetone - back in the day we used to drop nail varnish remover (acetone) into the fuel to boost octane! Over my 30 years in the industry and general driving I've tried a fair few additives. I think octane boosters are the most reliable of them all and can be fairly easily measured and tested, but many of these come with a carrier and small part of active ingredient and work out more expensive than buying high octane fuel. I wouldn't like to try these with a particulate filter or catalyst though nowadays. I've used the PTFE type of oil treatment which claimed to BOND to the metal and form a super slippery hard coating (a strip down did reveal a black shiny residue on the cylinder walls but it cost me oil pressure and threw a rod on that engine), even a "nitro boost" spray which claimed to increase horsepower, which all it did was create soot on my spark plugs and a misfire (old carb fed GM 1.6 unit). I had some wins with stop leak power steering fluid which did work but I've since learnt that generally they cause the seals to swell and this leads to further deterioration down the line. Thankfully advertising claims need to be backed up now which makes it harder to pass of the junk products, so it is fairly easy to spot the vague statements used to sell them like "should offer more power" "aims to improve combustion" "could improve performance and economy" statements used to sell them. Overall I've seen little gains or benefits for the cost, and tend to stick to just a few brands now that I really trust, such as BG.
From my own experience, with my Mitsubishi Mirage G4, using Walmart and HEB gas for like three months prevented the engine from hitting its 6K RPM. After using two bottles of Chevron Techron my Mirage G4 started hitting 6k RPM again easily. So yes, fuel additives and detergents sell using false advertisements stating to improve performance. But the truth is that they RESTORE performance by cleaning the engine up from cheap gas *cough* *cough* HEB & Walmart *cough* *cough* deposits that clog and damage your car's engine and injectors.
I agree oil additives wast of money I remember putting slick 50 in meany years ago just burned oil . Ram rough . Tho I do put redex fuel additives Every now and then in my 2.0tdi seems to run better tho premium fuel probably similar effects .
Rule of thumb is every 5th tank, or depending on how often you refill. If you put an injector cleaner in 50L of gasoline, and refuel when tank reaches 50% it means that half of the additive will remain in the tank and so on with the next tank, so you will have a mild cleaning effect for longer period of time.
What are your thoughts on PEA additives such as Archoil 6900 P Max to prevent carbon build up on direct injection engines? Also have you had any experience with Liqui Molly Motor Oil saver to fix leaking rubber seals?
PEA yes. Carbon buildup can be best solved with a catch can. No oil additives. They’re dangerous and can cause all sorts of problems with preignition and emissions equipment.
I use a small bottle of the stuff with EVERY tank, not just for the injector cleaners, but for the upper cylinder anti-friction modifiers. My Mustang is up to 233K miles, burns no measurable amount of oil, and still passes smog (in CA).
Fuel additives can actually help E5 premium fuel is not just for a performance, it is better fuel by large margin and you can get it for same price as regular e10 Oil additives aren’t any good except oil stop leaks which can also help in certain cases Engine flush is also a good one, but again common sense before you use, and you need a reason .
You need high concentration of PEA otherwise its useless additive, you want to clean the junk, thats how you get perf back and better mileage. 44K works exactly because of that high PEA.
I've worked in the trade for 26 years now and I've tried pretty much all the fuel additives. The ones to get in my view are either the Wynns Formula gold, the Wynns Professional or if you can find it the Valvoline Synpower fuel injection cleaner. All of those are fantastic fuel cleaners which work really well and work really fast.
A good cheap runner up to these are the STP fuel injector cleaners which also do a good job, especially for the money.
Archoil AR6900-D. Tested to CEC-DW102008... which is helpful as I drive a 2008 DW10 engined car!!
I have been using Liqui Moly products for a long time and stand by them as quality products. Their Di Jectron and Jectron lines are as good as injector cleaners come. Their engine fuel system treatment works great. For oil additives Ceratec is top shelf as is their flushes and motor oils
Have used forte diesel supplement only because it was advised by a local mechanic on my Golf Mk7 2.0TDI
Are premium fuels worth it? I have a 335d and have just started filling it up with Esso Supreme Diesel. It's 14p a litre more expensive so quickly adds up.
Great videos by the way. Big fan..
With premium fuels it depends on the car really. If you get more power and see better MPG then in my book it is worth it. Both my diesel and A3 1.4T petrol show better economy and feel more lively with premium fuels. Over the long term injectors and DPF's etc stay cleaner for longer and this helps prolong the life of the car.
Run a few tanks of either and compare your MPG to decide and if you notice the car makes better power then it is a plus. From experience you should see an improvement all round on the 335d.
Thanks for your kind words of encouragement. I just do this for fun and it's great to know it helps out a few people along the way.
SAAB workshop information system specifically states to not use oil additives. FYI.
I watched a comprehensive test of oil additives by an oil engineer. Some can destroy your engine and at best they just shorten the life of your oil. Do not use any oil additive, just use quality oil. He did say fuel additives can help, but if you use top tier gas, you will not need anything!
Shell V-Power always here
Recently started using Dipetane fuel additive in my diesel car, with 110k miles, until using it I had problems with the stop start System that had been diagnosed as the module or alternator, actually turned out to be early symptoms of DPF blockage whereby the stop start knows not to activate as it will make the blockage worse. After two tanks of fuel using Dipetane the car runs perfect and the stop start issues are gone.
Forgot to say, mpg is around 2mpg better, this is based upon my commute being identical everyday and no other domestic use as we use wife’s car for city driving
absolutelly disagree! Only ppl not using additives can say that!
This is the way! Believe science, not annecdotes and marketing buzz.
I use redline fuel cleaner never did any testing but my 2010 CTS-V wagon manual with 754,427 km still running like new
Have successfully used a home made fuel additive for years, a particular blend of Isopropyl alcohol and mineral 2 stroke oil. Isopropyl seems to clean injectors, 2 stroke cleans the diesel pump.
Can you write complete formula? Were they the diesel injectors?
Only additive I use is Redex FIC and I have been using it for 40 plus years across every car I have owned from Carburettor to GDI and Turbo charged, my cars have always ran smoother and cleaner, and fuel consumption stays on the level, I am not interested in power gains just keeping the fuel lines and valves , injectors nozzles and Cylinder crowns clean , modern fuels particularly E10 use Bio Ethanol which is high corrosive and can sludge up port injectors and Carburettor's. My current vehicle has a Turbo charged GDI engine I regularly inspect the combustion chambers every 3000 miles or so with my trusty borescope and the amount of carbon build up is extremely low that is down to Redex without a doubt, I try to mitigate intake valve carbon by having regular oil changes every 3000 to 5000 miles way before the manufacturer's recommendation of 7500 miles. Many people will say Redex is pointless on GDI engines well that's there opinion I know different. I always carry a bottle in the car its preventative maintenance.
BG makes a good product. No bs. If theyre selling it, it's for a good reason. Thier transmission additives did wonders on a high mileage vehicle. Quick clean and ATC plus.
I use Seafoam and Chemtool 12 here in US. I do have good results whenever I use them
I only ever use octane booster when I can't get 99Ron to help prevent pinging as the engine gets hotter (motorcycle) also use a few drops of Liquid Molly in the bevel (shaft) drive but I always leave the engine oil and gear box oil alone, oils today are a vast improvement over oils in the past where additives where fairly common in use.
I’ve used reddex diesel fuel cleaner and it’s actually works a lot
I put a full bottle of Redex in a full tank of premium diesel mainly to keep it all nice and clean, power and MPG gains are a bonus 👍
@@danmaycock9238 if you go to there website it states they tested it x4 of what they tell you to use just as a point with no damage done
Used to be fairly narrow minded when it comes to additives seeing them as snake oil but here I stand corrected... first, by pretty much everyone in the car business I ve been in touch with over the years, then by my own research and finally trial and testing myself. The two additives I now strongly believe in for Diesels are 1. cetane boosters like Liqui Moly s 5140 & similar (they basically turn normal Diesel into premium at an overall cheaper price) 2. Diesel system cleaners once or twice a year (like Liqui s 5156).
Furthermore, most told me that for my old but beloved A3 1.9 tdi that I kept coz it was my first new car, Liqui s Ceratec would be really good coz the main issue with those PDs (aside from carbon build up) is wear on the cam shaft... also the reason why most run 5w40 instead of the officially recommended 5w30 oil. I personally have been running 5w30 so far as it never consumed any oil but the more I checked, the more I m tempted to also switch to 5w40... It s silly but to me even that switch worries me for some reason (like never change a running team)... and then there even is the Ceratec option...
TorqueCars, do you guys have any experience with Ceratec and/or changing from 5w30 to 5w40 on PD Tdis?
Unless you are driving in temps below minus 30 C you should use 10W-40 minimum.
I have some experience with Ceratec. I have used it twice on my Chevrolet Spark which i use for winter an city driving. I have used it twice in the time span of two years, so every other year i would add half a bottle (one bottle is for 5L of oil and the Spark needs 2,5L of oil) and the other half i would share with my neighbor. The effect i could clearly feel on my Spark was that during winter cold cranking and start it would start easier and which still cold the engine would behave like a warmed up engine. So i definitely recommend the Ceratec if your engine is suitable for it. I have never used it with my Ford C-Max 1.0 Ecoboost as i worry it may be detrimental to the wet belt it has for the oil pump. If it was safe i would definitely use it, but i am afraid as i can't find a solid info that the Ceratec is safe for the wet belt.
I worked with Honda in Japan some years ago. I wouldn’t recommend any form of oil additive. You need to make sure you’re using the correct specification of engine oil.
Fuel additive is an entirely different product. Only use one of these that contain Polyetheramine AKA PEA.
Additives for diesel is relatively safe. It helps with clogging and prevents corossion of injectors. Here in Czech republic I can buy diesel without eco component. I am adding VIF diesel every time. My injectors are in perfect condition. I had dismantled engine on Skoda Octavia in 135k km. Every part of engine was like brand new. I change oil every 8k. I use Liqui Moly Ceratec every oil change - my own experiment. 200t on clock right now, no oil consumption, runs flawlessly. I can not recommend to everybody. Ceratec contains Ca which makes corrosive stuff for every engine. Come may resist more some not. I recommend my friends Ceratec in tuned cars as well, but it is in engine just for few laps or week and then I will change oil a put the new one without any additive. I recommend to everybody who own f.e. S14 of any similar gem. Ceratec is really good, but it always depends on condition on engine etc. I definitely can not recommend to use additives or ceratec with oils like Valvoline Restore & Protect, this is specific oil and super sensitive to any other stuff in it. To all known to this day, Valvoline Restore & Protect is the best oil nowadays. With this oil you dont need additives. In extreme conditions you should do oil change f.e. put Ceratec + VR1 Racing, then come back to Restore & Protect to clean your engine during the next oil change. I can not recommend engine flushes very often. Some microfilm of carbon is good when you have certain wear on your engine. Depends on the conditions of engine. If you want to flush use Liqui Moly or TEC2000. So no snake oil, but it depends on engine, condition, and your aim. Perfect condition with Ceratec is always better than without it. It has boron. But not every engine has proper oil drilling which can take Ceratec. Russian BMW forum reported wear on the crank with ceratec, but we do now know the consequences of driving. It seems some engines can be damaged in case of more wear with Ceratec. It also need special approach. Put Ceratec bottle to hot water. Drain hot oil from your car. Keep warm the new oil(just the exact volume minus the volume (of Ceratec bottle/bottles) engine neds to not harm the concentration), put hot ceratec in it. Shake it properly to mix it. Then put in hot engine and go for a run as fast as you can go. Make f.e. 50km as a min, not hesitate to redline after while. Then you are ready. I am also very satisfied with LM MOS2(LM41) - absolute no worries about it, it was invented for DB605, works good to this days. I put 1,5 bottle in 730d every 8k km. I go for concervative approach with my BMW - MOS2 and not Ceratec. Anyway BMW original oil LL04 is highly additived, not such need to add more. /// Premium fuels vs regular with own addities - I go for own additives. I put for all of my cars overadditived diesel. It can prolong lifespan of injectors drastically, but not if you are running in low rpm and eco mode. For a certain engines it can safe your wallet in case of DI rail and pump. Clogged injectors are causing overheating of the DI pump to extreme, lower PS outpus as well, you can easily lost 5-20kw of power in case of clogged injectors. If your engine has DI pump with worse manufacturing tolerances not using additived diesel can be felt in your wallet soon. Stay safe! 🤞
PS. I am talking about serious use additives(longevity, more response, slight lower consumption), not bastards who wants hide some hydraulic lifter noises.
An oil additive that I have used in every car that I have had over the last 25+ years is "ACTIV8" Just watch the video here on TH-cam and be totally amazed, I would like a comment from anyone who can tell me how this product works. It cuts out 90% of all engine and manual gearbox wear. If you lose ALL your sump oil the engine will NOT seize up. For a one-litre bottle is about £85, but you only need 250 cc after an oil and filter change, this will last for 4 oil changes. It is the heat from the engine and manual gearbox that activates this product to stick to all moving metal parts, hence you have Activ8 rubbing against Activ8, this gives you a massive reduction in wear, this will also increase your mileage with fuel and give you about an extra 10 BHP due to the lack of friction, as I say watch the video on TH-cam and explain if you can how this works.
this increases internal engine drag substantially, lowering performance for what I consider zero gain, so long as you use a quality product like valvoline full synthetic oils, which i highly recommend... my dad was a race car mechanic and the team he was on won both the Indy and stock car races... ever heard of A.J. Foyt? edited to say I know nothing about diesal engines, other than the science and mechanics of them, i have never rebuilt one... I do know gasoline engines, so my comments are just for gas.
@@billyboland2391 I’ve got this in my m4 comp, but yet to comment on how good it is
Oil additives can dilute the oil specifications for your vehicle. I do add Hot Shot EDC in my diesel for cleaning and lubricant.
What is your experience and background to make a statement on additives? I ran honda GX200 bench test engine trailing various fuels, additives, octane boosters, etc. And some work very well, and actually help with deposits and cleaner burn. The only octane boosters containing MMT created magnesium deposits in high dosages. And to add my 2p on octane boosters, with right additives like said MMT, or toulene, xylene actually work well. Most modern cars have different maps and will adapt to higher octane and advance the timing based on knock sensors providing right info.
But i do agree cheap additives are nothing but naphta anake oil
Toluene is much better than acetone - back in the day we used to drop nail varnish remover (acetone) into the fuel to boost octane!
Over my 30 years in the industry and general driving I've tried a fair few additives. I think octane boosters are the most reliable of them all and can be fairly easily measured and tested, but many of these come with a carrier and small part of active ingredient and work out more expensive than buying high octane fuel. I wouldn't like to try these with a particulate filter or catalyst though nowadays.
I've used the PTFE type of oil treatment which claimed to BOND to the metal and form a super slippery hard coating (a strip down did reveal a black shiny residue on the cylinder walls but it cost me oil pressure and threw a rod on that engine), even a "nitro boost" spray which claimed to increase horsepower, which all it did was create soot on my spark plugs and a misfire (old carb fed GM 1.6 unit).
I had some wins with stop leak power steering fluid which did work but I've since learnt that generally they cause the seals to swell and this leads to further deterioration down the line.
Thankfully advertising claims need to be backed up now which makes it harder to pass of the junk products, so it is fairly easy to spot the vague statements used to sell them like "should offer more power" "aims to improve combustion" "could improve performance and economy" statements used to sell them.
Overall I've seen little gains or benefits for the cost, and tend to stick to just a few brands now that I really trust, such as BG.
Tec2000 or Liquid Molly are Very Good 👍
can you make a video on redex fuel system cleaner please i really want a deep breakdown of what it contains and if it really cleans carbon.....
From my own experience, with my Mitsubishi Mirage G4, using Walmart and HEB gas for like three months prevented the engine from hitting its 6K RPM. After using two bottles of Chevron Techron my Mirage G4 started hitting 6k RPM again easily. So yes, fuel additives and detergents sell using false advertisements stating to improve performance. But the truth is that they RESTORE performance by cleaning the engine up from cheap gas *cough* *cough* HEB & Walmart *cough* *cough* deposits that clog and damage your car's engine and injectors.
I agree oil additives wast of money
I remember putting slick 50 in meany years ago just burned oil . Ram rough . Tho I do put redex fuel additives Every now and then in my 2.0tdi seems to run better tho premium fuel probably similar effects .
One fuel additive, called MAXXFUEL was dyno proven to consistently gain 10whp on a 2006 Honda Civic. Its a combustion enhancer.
Excellent video, thank you!
Good info
Just wondering how often would you use injector cleaning additives?
Rule of thumb is every 5th tank, or depending on how often you refill. If you put an injector cleaner in 50L of gasoline, and refuel when tank reaches 50% it means that half of the additive will remain in the tank and so on with the next tank, so you will have a mild cleaning effect for longer period of time.
What are your thoughts on PEA additives such as Archoil 6900 P Max to prevent carbon build up on direct injection engines?
Also have you had any experience with Liqui Molly Motor Oil saver to fix leaking rubber seals?
fuel additives actually help your engine lst
PEA yes.
Carbon buildup can be best solved with a catch can.
No oil additives. They’re dangerous and can cause all sorts of problems with preignition and emissions equipment.
e85 baby... water injection ... perfection
44k all the way
Does Lucas fuel injector cleaner work ?
@@victorhugonatersjr.4868 yes I use that one and Chevron techron both good additives!
I use a small bottle of the stuff with EVERY tank, not just for the injector cleaners, but for the upper cylinder anti-friction modifiers. My Mustang is up to 233K miles, burns no measurable amount of oil, and still passes smog (in CA).
Sawdust in the gearbox was recommended to me by a certain car mechanic. His name was....
Arthur Daley.
What did he say again? I need a reminder.
Dipetane, Dipetane, Dipetane.
Fuel additives can actually help
E5 premium fuel is not just for a performance, it is better fuel by large margin and you can get it for same price as regular e10
Oil additives aren’t any good except oil stop leaks which can also help in certain cases
Engine flush is also a good one, but again common sense before you use, and you need a reason .
You need high concentration of PEA otherwise its useless additive, you want to clean the junk, thats how you get perf back and better mileage. 44K works exactly because of that high PEA.
Oil already have the additives that engine need…maybe some gasoline additives works
ZDDP
ATS 505!
th-cam.com/video/c-babZWqH34/w-d-xo.htmlsi=trzIt-8xkVUXMIzz