You shouldn't have had to explain about the heat shrink the vast majority of us knew what you were saying "common sense" is something that is lacking with a lot of souls. Again, top shelf young man!
Great video. One thing that you didn't mention but I was told is when fitting connectors to a live wire is to make sure the female is on the live feed wire as the insulator covers it which is not the case if the male is on the live feed. Prevents shorting on metal parts on the bike should the wires become detached.
Thanks to all your wiring videos and these. Iv successfully, added a indicator loom wirh solid connection's to my road legal uk pitbike. All solid connection's 💪
Some useful stuff here, but at 5:55, never ever crimp insulation into the conductor section of a terminal. When the conductor is undersized for the crimp barrel, simply add a stripped wire of whatever gauge is sufficient to make up the difference in the crimp, then cut off the excess of the added wire as close to the crimp as possible. For permanent splices, nothing beats the solder sleeve splice you showed at 11:15. The original Raychem, now TE Connectivity, splice is practically the only splice method allowed for general and environmental wire splicing on air carrier aircraft. It takes a good heat gun and a little practice to do them right, but nothing else works as well. The guillotine splice you show at 13:48 is even worse than you indicated, but if it gets you home....
New to messing with wiring, so sorry for any silly questions. How do you know what size crimping hole to use on the crimping tool? Does it go by the guage of wire that your using? Thank in advance and keep up the great work! New subscriber as well!
Dear motorcycle M.D. I have to change the water pump on my shadow 1100. Do u have any tricks of the trade to tell me because I know I have to remove the entire motor...... I am going to try to undo mostly everything giving me enough room to move the motor and reach the pump without fully taking motor out. Thanks for your great videos!!!
Thank you Cody for ur helpful ideas. Another question pls. I bought a new enduro bike but I didn't like the wiring harness so much. I tried to use shrink pipes but couldn't apply it on big square plugs and having a thin wire. How could I insulate such
I spliced in the power wire on my Dyantek electronic ignition using the cheap blue plastic splicer that came with it. The one you said we shouldn't use. Should I just leave it alone since it's working fine? I'm worried about trying to redo it now that I've already used the plastic splicer.
If you mean the "scotchlok" type connector, as shown at 13.20, the main issue in the long term is you cannot weatherproof it, so it will corrode as time goes on, leading to failure of the connection.
Cody! Question for you: I have a HondaCB750K8 - Was running fine, then adjusted the pilot screw and the float height back to spec, now when I try to start, there is a pop back and it will blow the carb off the manifold (looks like cylinder 4 is where the problem originates). I noticed that as I put my air box in that some wiring from my Dyna Points system was disconnected when I tried turning over, those have been plugged back in. What Should I check for? Why is there this pop back occurring that’s blowing my carbs off the manifold? Did the wiring have anything to do with this? LOVE your videos and have helped me a ton. Hope you can respond! Thank you! Mike
Hey Cody, i was wondering if you can help me out on which site it is you use to find/order your Honda parts? TY! Im trying to find the valve cover gasket (like the one in your cb750 video) for my 1994 Honda shadow Vt1100 but i cant seem to find it if you or anyone can help that would be awesome!
I thought you were going to do a video on wiring a custom Harley that's never had turn signals from start to finish? No? Maybe it was a different motorcycle guy? Oh yes and the signals are LED.
This was the most useful pair of videos I have watched on wiring in the last 5 years of messing around with bikes. I wish I found these first.
Super encouraging to hear that. Thanks man!
You shouldn't have had to explain about the heat shrink the vast majority of us knew what you were saying "common sense" is something that is lacking with a lot of souls. Again, top shelf young man!
I've used a LOT of your tips & tricks and you've never let me down yet!
Thanks Cody. You are #1 dude.
That "Inner Circle" thing is rad too.
Great video. One thing that you didn't mention but I was told is when fitting connectors to a live wire is to make sure the female is on the live feed wire as the insulator covers it which is not the case if the male is on the live feed. Prevents shorting on metal parts on the bike should the wires become detached.
Hi to everyone from Scotland
Dudes, leave our boy Cody alone!
He does a good job and doesn't need any B/S from rowdy comment injectors.
Thanks Cody.
Thanks to all your wiring videos and these. Iv successfully, added a indicator loom wirh solid connection's to my road legal uk pitbike. All solid connection's 💪
another great video. just one thing i like using the term "less expensive|" instead of cheap.
I learned three techniques from this video. Very helpful!
Thanks again from UK Cody 👍
Excellent stuff. Thank-you. Quality all around.
Thanks for the videos😊
perfect timing , thx a lot
Some useful stuff here, but at 5:55, never ever crimp insulation into the conductor section of a terminal. When the conductor is undersized for the crimp barrel, simply add a stripped wire of whatever gauge is sufficient to make up the difference in the crimp, then cut off the excess of the added wire as close to the crimp as possible. For permanent splices, nothing beats the solder sleeve splice you showed at 11:15. The original Raychem, now TE Connectivity, splice is practically the only splice method allowed for general and environmental wire splicing on air carrier aircraft. It takes a good heat gun and a little practice to do them right, but nothing else works as well. The guillotine splice you show at 13:48 is even worse than you indicated, but if it gets you home....
Ref 5:55 Is that to avoid the sheath melting, causing fire, shorting or making bad connection?
cody can you do some stuff on suzuki gs850l like proper carb fuel tank hoses
It's been a big help
New to messing with wiring, so sorry for any silly questions. How do you know what size crimping hole to use on the crimping tool? Does it go by the guage of wire that your using? Thank in advance and keep up the great work! New subscriber as well!
Thanks so much Cody, I owe you a beer.
Dear motorcycle M.D. I have to change the water pump on my shadow 1100. Do u have any tricks of the trade to tell me because I know I have to remove the entire motor...... I am going to try to undo mostly everything giving me enough room to move the motor and reach the pump without fully taking motor out. Thanks for your great videos!!!
Thank you Cody for ur helpful ideas. Another question pls. I bought a new enduro bike but I didn't like the wiring harness so much. I tried to use shrink pipes but couldn't apply it on big square plugs and having a thin wire. How could I insulate such
How could I insulate such square plugs?
I spliced in the power wire on my Dyantek electronic ignition using the cheap blue plastic splicer that came with it. The one you said we shouldn't use. Should I just leave it alone since it's working fine? I'm worried about trying to redo it now that I've already used the plastic splicer.
If it’s working than run it!
If you mean the "scotchlok" type connector, as shown at 13.20, the main issue in the long term is you cannot weatherproof it, so it will corrode as time goes on, leading to failure of the connection.
Brilliant thx keep up the good work 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 good standards
Birds and the bees talk using bullet connectors lol 😉👍
Cody! Question for you:
I have a HondaCB750K8 - Was running fine, then adjusted the pilot screw and the float height back to spec, now when I try to start, there is a pop back and it will blow the carb off the manifold (looks like cylinder 4 is where the problem originates). I noticed that as I put my air box in that some wiring from my Dyna Points system was disconnected when I tried turning over, those have been plugged back in.
What Should I check for? Why is there this pop back occurring that’s blowing my carbs off the manifold? Did the wiring have anything to do with this?
LOVE your videos and have helped me a ton.
Hope you can respond! Thank you!
Mike
Hey Cody, i was wondering if you can help me out on which site it is you use to find/order your Honda parts? TY!
Im trying to find the valve cover gasket (like the one in your cb750 video) for my 1994 Honda shadow Vt1100 but i cant seem to find it if you or anyone can help that would be awesome!
Excellent 👍🏻
✌🏽thanks man🙏🏼🏁
Thanks man!
so can i use the liquid tape then put a heats shrink on top ?? or its just useless
That’s exactly what I do, it guarantees a water tight connection.
Hey bro i have harley davidson street 750 n the O2 sensor wires cover is wearing off from one side i have used electrical tape to cover it is it ok ?
As long as the tape is prepared to take super high heat!
What about the clear heat shrink they came out with that has solder already in the middle all she have to do is heat it up
Nevermind I guess I should have washed the whole video before I asked the question
I can't see connection for the cheat sheet. Will look you up on fb
Codie did you read my question in series 1 ?
Any chance you can reply pls ?
I work in a body shop and i always solder and shrink tube but i see alot of people use butt connectors not a good thing to do
It is when you have a goldwing with 40 lights up front that you have to remove to change the front wheel!
I thought you were going to do a video on wiring a custom Harley that's never had turn signals from start to finish? No? Maybe it was a different motorcycle guy? Oh yes and the signals are LED.
Another really useful video from the MD 👍