AWESOME 3D Printed STEEL!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 เม.ย. 2024
- WORLDS FIRST Metal 3D Printed LEGO Lightsaber! I loved @MattDenton and his LEGO lightsaber build, so I made one OUT OF 3D PRINTED TITANIUM, STEEL, AND ALUMINUM!
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Whenever you tap metal, ALWAYS use some sort of cutting oil. Also, if you are tapping a small hole, don’t use a drill. Do it by hand and put your work piece in a vise.
Tap + Drill = Sadness, their are option for hand tapping drills with special chucks on them though. Good ones run you close to $500
So you've assembled your own lightsaber. That's the last step to becoming a Jedi
You mean the first step, still some time training ahead
@@chipcode5538 No you're wrong. Definitely the last thing. In canon they would train with other things. A lightsaber requires the ability to feel the force to balance the crystals inside otherwise it blows up on first activation. So it's like parachutists packing their own parachute. DK taught me well :)
Imagine when metal 3d printers are sub 10k. Its going to be amazing for small businesses. I have a small business where I need to machine a lot of parts myself and its so time consuming for the more complicated ones. Being able to metal 3d print the majority would be a huge game changer.
It would have been interesting to know how much it cost for those metal parts.
I have never used a tap in a drill. It's alwyas been by hand, and WITH tapping/cutting oil, lots of oil.
At lesat that was the way I was trained decades ago by machinists.
You can use a drill if you use the clutch and once it binds go back and forward till you are done
Tapping tip - go up a drill size! The tapping drill size specified is never going to work out in metal (even aluminum) when tapping by hand. You simply cannot keep the tap aligned with the hole, it will bind and break every time. Also it makes tapping a lot easier. And use a cutting fluid, WD40 works well for aluminum and can work in a pinch for other metals. Using anything is better than using nothing.
That will make a fine addition to your collection!
Dude, you need cutting fluid or lard/shortening! Cool build!
Great project.
Were I to attempt this one, I think I'd try slushing paint or tool dip (possibly to thick) in the cavity to combat shorting.
A few tips and suggestions: 1. As leeslegacy stated always place your metal part in a vice or secure it to a base for taping and always use oil to do taping by hand. 2. for electronics inside metal objects you can add a non conductive material to the inside... coat the inner surface with a non conductive dip or paint on the inside. Or print an inner sleeve and subtract the thickness from the metal substrate. This can also be used to screw into rather than tapping. Effectively your outer metal part become more decorative by making that inner protective structure become the attachment point and the insulator.
_"Or print an inner sleeve and subtract the thickness from the metal substrate"_ -- yeah, IMHO that's the way to go. I don't know if that would've fit the basic framework of the project here, i.e. still having some of the saber printed in plastic, but since the visible, touchable part would still be metal I'd think it'd still be within the scope of the idea.
Dip or paint is just going to reduce clearances anyway, so really should adjust the model printed in metal anyway, and if you're going to do that, might as well just go ahead and print a proper sleeve instead of dealing with messy dip or paint.
Great Video! A Vice to hold the project would change your life!
OH MY GOODNESS it so would
Bacon grease and beeswax are the 2 most popular tapping "fluids" in our shop. And if you happen to break a tap in an aluminum part, just send it out for anodizing, it will come back without a tap in it. But in every case, alignment is key, a misaligned tap will almost always break.
Encouraging people to try, maybe fail, and keep trying.
More people need to hear this.
Thanks Joel.
If you're ever going to drill or tap metal again, put it in a sturdy vise. For tapping, either use a hand tap being careful to apply even force (lateral force on the bit will snap it) or a drill press/cnc mill. As others have said, also use some lubricant, especially for hard metal like the high speed steel you were doing.
Cutting aluminum and wood will let you get away with a lot that hard metals will not.
"quite sad", I've been "quite sad" too, two times today in fact, printing with ASA. It's printing quite fine now, so I'm "quite happy". Great job, love the build!
What filament printer do you recommend in the 250-300 dollar price range?
that looks a fun and challenging project thanks for sharing your journey!
It really was, but that's makes the result just so much better!
@@3DPrintingNerd Agreed, the satisfaction once it's complete is so great!
Your mistakes with the taps can be boiled down to one simple thing: you didn't use any cutting oil. You should never tap dry, especially on high speed steel. That will cause the metal to heat up and work harden. Once it work hardens, that tap will snap.
Could you do a clamshell 3d printed tubular box that you pack with the wires, close up then slide it super easily into the metal tube?
Tapmagic is your friend…have some ready to go for future projects 👌🏼
Improvement suggestion, add a motion detector and realtime light saber moving noise!
that hand needs to be wall mounted with the lightsaber constantly lit... IN BLUE !!!
What metal 3D printers were these parts printed on? Looks like Binderjet but has some porosity and surface roughness
I is impressed and astounded
Greetings from Turkmenistan, Ashgabat. Thank you for interesting, educational and fun videos!
Awesome! 🙌😊
:47 Thank you for sneaking in a Napoleon Dynamite quote. It did not go unnoticed.
:)
im so happy that you made tha bobby duke arts refernce i started my youtube art journy on him
eventuily got done to 3d printing
thank you for doing all you do
I thought I had misheard when you said you were going to tap tool steel, maybe if it was something like pre-processed K1045, but good to see you had a happy smiling engineering outfit to help.
Just love the enthusiasm you put into your clips.
SO AWESOME of them to help!
Metal 3D printing seriously need to become as commonplace as bambu lab printers have become, or even more commonplace.
That's the day my business and I are waiting for 😀👍
I like to use self-fusing silicone tape on electrical components whenever possible. It doesn't leave a sticky residue behind like standard electrical tape does.
So what was the cost to do the lightsaber in metal?
Electrical tape might work short term, but it doesn't last. Kapton tape is what the entire electronics industry uses, strongly recommended for this application.
That's the LIGHTSABER!! 🥳🥳🥳
you could use a clear conformal coating on those circuit boards to insulate them it will fit way better but also make it water proof.
I had thought about that, but maybe next time!
What about kapton tape? Thin and high temp.
Very cool. These kinds of projects are always ones that bring smiles to people's face. But the one thing that came to mind... "I put some electrical tape on the tube so I can wave it around like a maniac, I mean..."
I had a teacher that showed up and proudly showed myself and classmates his new phone... a just released iPhone 3G. And with this new thing called the "App Store", he downloaded the most advanced apps that ever graced our mortal hands: the fart button and the light saber. Tap the touchscreen and "wooowow" and the light saber came on. Tap again "voooop". Double tap and the color changed. And if you swing it around... yea, that's the stuff. But unlike your electrical tape to hold the tube on, my teacher had nice leather case for his new phone. So he shook it around a bit to to make the light saber sounds when suddenly... the button gave. "WOOOWOWOWOWOOWWOwowowoowowowowo......." as the brand new iPhone that had people lined up around blocks to get... went flying off in a mathematically perfect ark across the room and into the cinder block wall the school was made of. So good option on the electrical tape to hold things secure.
As for my teacher's phone, he was lucky. Not only were phones less fragile then, but it landed on some old circuit boards, producing a kindof trampoline that broke the phone's fall. Back in the case and no more wild shaking with the app. Fart app it is. Keeping WOOOOWOWOWOWOWO awesome.
It woudl be interesting to see the price quotes on all these metal parts content creaters get for free from JLC :)
Also a great addon is a "Adafruit RP2040 Prop-Maker Feather met I2S Audio amplifier ", so this thing uses the start up sound of the lightsaber but! Also your movements make the lightsaber change it buzzingsounds. there's almost no soldering on the feather board. But Johnny why havent u build it yourself and share your knowledge on youtube, well i dont have a workspace and two printers in the living room, the qidi tech xmax3 makes a lot of noise and my health isnt... that great.
Ooh!
Great project, I still haven’t made a saber.
1. It's tool steel, not "high speed steel"
2. Tap by hand.
3. Use cutting oil.
4. Use a fluted tap so you don't have to back out the tap to clear the chips.
Well, shoot. What delineates tool steel from high speed?
High speed steel in used to make cutting tools. So it's technically tool steel, but not the same tool steel you would use for a parts like you have.
You're a winner
I wonder if it would have been easier to print a small chassis to put all the electrical components on to insulate them from the metal 🤔 Kind of a pity it's so short though; bit more like a light dagger like this :p
When soldering tiny parts use solder paste and a heat gun, it's much easier 😉
Great tip!
Why don’t you use a flexible pcb? Did you know that every hearing aids are made out of flexible pcb? It might be perfect for your project case! That aside, congrats on creating your first lightsaber!
Tool steel is not for novices. Aluminum is a lot easier for the machining steps. And can be anodized for colors.
Hey @3DPN I have a few bottle of Metal Instant adhesive Permabond that’s Aerospace grade for fighter jets if you need some.
Almost thought Metal 3D printing was more affordable to hobbyists
This will be great for when you fight Lego Sith! Do not underestimate the power of the Lego Dark Side!
Cool video man! But... PCBWay could've tapped those holes for you!
Yes they could have, heh. Oh dude, yes they could.
That must feel nice with the weight of it being in metal.
I saw what you did there, channeling our dear friend Bobby.
I thought you were going to have a large 3D printed Lego Darth Vader to hold the Lego Lightsaber.
It must be done. :)
The board needs an accelerometer, so when you swing it, it makes noise.
Had PCBWay 3D Print me some 1/16 scale Drive Sprockets ( 60x50mm ) out of Aluminium for my E-100 not too long ago.
Cost me an arm and a leg ( incl Shipping and Tax ) for how little material it essentially was. That shit must have cost him his first born 🤔
if i had a 3d printer i could do so much
Same. I have a couple models that I made over 5 years ago that I would love to print.
I have a cheap one and I have no idea what I'm doing. It's not as simple as they make it look.
Get one! There are a lot of affordable ones you can get to play with. There is a learning curve but basics to get you going aren't too bad. Then you can dive into details as you grow into it. Very rewarding and useful hobby!
What's stopping you from having one?
@@DonsArtnGames Money or lack of.
Cool project.
You should have 3d Printed a plastic chassis to hold your components. If you are a interested in making more, you can get way easier boards to use.
I love this idea but there was no room for the chassis. If I do it again I’ll also have Matt change the pieces a bit :)
@@3DPrintingNerd what was the ID of the part?
Chassis can be as small as 7/8 in diameter ;)
@@3DPrintingNerd IMHO, you'd want to adjust the metal part's inside space to accommodate a plastic liner/chassis that itself has the same size as the original project. Then the "no room for the chassis" is a non-problem.
So cool! See you later today! 😁
Can't wait!
if i had a nickel for every 1/4" tap ive broken, Id just buy PCBway! 😅
You have done well, padawan.
Fail! Nate didn't mention whether the bridgeport was clapped out. This is super important information we need!
The electronics in this seem massively over complicated. You could have saved a lot of work by using an Adafruit Propmaker RP2040. It has audio and neopixel support, motion sensor and battery charging all on a single board.
Bobby duke arts approves of you wanting Dat.
Do you need to 3D print a Lego Joel character to hold the Lego lightsaber????
I'm a novice at working with metal. But I've had better luck using a vise to hold the part when hand tapping and also using some oil as lubricant.
I had thought about the oil, but at a time it was too late :)
This is the way I was trained by machinists. By hand, and with lots of tapping/cutting oil.
I've broken more taps learning than I care to admit. XD Thanks for the video. Metal 3D printing is awesome!
3-13
It looks like you forgot to use thread cutting oil, correct? 😮
BOBBY DUKE REFERENCE!
YES!
Missed opportunity to 3D print (plastic) an electronics 'sled' to load the electronics into the handle.
I was thinking the same thing. Or even a single layer plastic sleeve to insulate.
Never heard of lube... huh?
Instead of black tape what about kapton tape. It's super thin and insulated.
HOLY COW I forgot about that!
@@3DPrintingNerd it's whats used when making battery packs and some electronics. Just thought about it as you were making the electronics pack and thought 🤔 would this be better? It's also fairly strong 😀
Talks about being a Jedi.... Uses a red blade....
lol
lol Joel, you were soldering with no part holder and not using a smaller soldering iron and/or microscope. I mean I know those cost money so it wouldn’t be worth it just for that, but you basically had everything working against you for ease of soldering. Just sayin, you made it hard on yourself in that case lol
You spelt aluminium wrong haha
Aluminumanumanumanum
@3DPrintingNerd Correct! Gold star well done ;)
using no oil when tapping...shame on you...shame!
Thanks för the video.
To bad it was 90% ad for PCBway an 10% Project.
Wow, you're bad at math ;)
Dude, where is the rest of your light saber. It looks alittle short.
My tube was a bit short :(
I would hate to step on that in the middle of the night.