Replacing the rear pads on the 2020 Busa, very easy to do. Same procedure from 2008-2020. These are the original pads and have 20k miles on them! Brake pads Amazon Link amzn.to/3WbO52L
Just a tip. ALWAYS use heavy thread locker on every single steel bolt that goes into aluminum. Or on low tension fasteners, use copper anti-seize paste. Never use straight steel bolts into thick cast aluminum, especially on a suspension bolt or spark plug, because if you are washing your bike frequently, the water will get into the bolt and cause it to corrode, and when you remove the bolt, it galls the aluminum threads. If you use thread locker, there is zero corrosion, because the thread locker seals the metal and prevents oxidation of the steel and aluminum, and it also saves your life.
Hi mate, thanks again, took my wheel out and dismantled the whole rear caliper assembly plus the mount to clean it. Got a bit mixed up trying to put the pads back in and saw from your vid that it was way easier to fit them back in once the caliper was back on the bike with the wheel in. On my bike, even though it is very low miles, the rear slider pin was stuck because water got in behind the rubber boot and corroded the aluminium housing making it bloom (made hole diameter smaller) and press into the boot and locking up the pin. I took the boot completely out of the caliper and cleaned up the mounting hole with a half round file and greased it up. Fitted the boot back in and pin moves freely in there now. Just a thing to look out for on bikes that spend some time in the wet. Another great video and you are helping me out a great deal keeping my 'busa sweet. 👍👍👍👍 btw, when I say low miles, I'm talking 2700 miles and it's a 2014! Dunno what the last guy used it for, to put his coats on I think. 🤣🤣
Cool man! I'm very pleased to hear my video was helpful to you! That is extremely low miles on a 2014, wow! Maybe he used it as a garage decoration ☺️ Mine has over 20,000 miles and it's a 2020. I'm getting my money's worth out of it 😆
Absolutely man, here's the link: amzn.to/49OWHCy If you only want basic torque specs and not in depth repairs you can also find them in your owners manual too.
Excellent!! You just saved most riders about $300.00 bucks unless they're wealthy or lazy! 👍
Cool ! That's what a friend of mine said too, that they charge mad money for this in New York.
Can you do a video on replacing the front pads?
Yes, definitely when it's time to replace them. They just have a little more to go.
Just wanted to say thankyou for this video, need to do mine ASAP, very pricise and informative, catch you on the next one.
You're most welcome! Glad you found value in this video. Thanks for the support man! 🙌🙌
Just a tip. ALWAYS use heavy thread locker on every single steel bolt that goes into aluminum. Or on low tension fasteners, use copper anti-seize paste. Never use straight steel bolts into thick cast aluminum, especially on a suspension bolt or spark plug, because if you are washing your bike frequently, the water will get into the bolt and cause it to corrode, and when you remove the bolt, it galls the aluminum threads. If you use thread locker, there is zero corrosion, because the thread locker seals the metal and prevents oxidation of the steel and aluminum, and it also saves your life.
Interesting, thank you for sharing! It's kind of disappointing they didn't use this technique from the factory.
Hi mate, thanks again, took my wheel out and dismantled the whole rear caliper assembly plus the mount to clean it. Got a bit mixed up trying to put the pads back in and saw from your vid that it was way easier to fit them back in once the caliper was back on the bike with the wheel in. On my bike, even though it is very low miles, the rear slider pin was stuck because water got in behind the rubber boot and corroded the aluminium housing making it bloom (made hole diameter smaller) and press into the boot and locking up the pin. I took the boot completely out of the caliper and cleaned up the mounting hole with a half round file and greased it up. Fitted the boot back in and pin moves freely in there now. Just a thing to look out for on bikes that spend some time in the wet. Another great video and you are helping me out a great deal keeping my 'busa sweet. 👍👍👍👍 btw, when I say low miles, I'm talking 2700 miles and it's a 2014! Dunno what the last guy used it for, to put his coats on I think. 🤣🤣
Cool man! I'm very pleased to hear my video was helpful to you! That is extremely low miles on a 2014, wow! Maybe he used it as a garage decoration ☺️
Mine has over 20,000 miles and it's a 2020. I'm getting my money's worth out of it 😆
Can you do a video on flushing both the clutch reservoir and brake reservoir?
Absolutely man, I was actually planning to do this as a winter project. Bear with me!
Good work mate !
Many thanks bro! 🙌🙌
El bushilanga😂
🤣🤣🤣
U make it look to easy 😅
@@johngreensmith63 hahaha thanks man! 😉
Top man!!!!!
@@johngreensmith63 many thanks bro! 🙏
You didn’t use the shims or shield? Why not thanks 😊
@@matthewcartelli2625 you could if you want but the new pads usually have shims.
What is brake pads for superbike
They're a good brand, it's EBC. I have the link in the description.
Έγραψες δικέ μου..πολύ ωραίο το βίντεο!!!!
Πολύ ωραία, χαίρομαι!! Ευχαριστώ φιλερρρ!! 🙌
@mototalkusa hey brother. Can you please tell me where you got that Suzuki torque spec book you used?
Absolutely man, here's the link: amzn.to/49OWHCy
If you only want basic torque specs and not in depth repairs you can also find them in your owners manual too.
Thanks a lot
@@786HZ you're very welcome, anytime 😉
You rock bro and are so damn smart !!! :D
Thank you man! 🙌🤟🤟
Excelente
Thanks man! 🤙🤙