I just did my first DIY tire change the other week on my Busa. The freaking rear was a royal pain to mount. I got one side over no problem, but thought I was gonna tear the tire up trying to get the second side over the lip of the rim. I ended up using my brothers automotive tire machine to get the last side over and in. The front didn’t seem nearly as bad and I got it on using the same Motion Pro bead breaker tire irons that you have.
Yeah, the trick is to have the tire under that edge or lip of the wheel however they call it, otherwise it's impossible to mount, you're just fighting against the tire and stretching it. Happy to hear it worked out tho. 🙌
Are you still using the stock 190/50 rear tire size? The Hayabusa turns MUCH better with a 180/55 or 190/55. The taller profile also lays down more rubber when banked over, giving MUCH more traction.
You don't need to do all that fiddling with the rear caliper. The next time you have the rear caliper off, pull the rear pads out and grind a healthy bevel along the edge of the pads closest to the rear axle, so that from now on, all you have to do is shove the rear wheel in, and the rotor will be guided into place between the pads by the "V" shape formed by those two bevels. It's an old endurance racing trick- we can change a rear wheel/tire in seconds that way.
I don't think it's possible to balance without the sprocket because the cone on the end would just float in the hole of the wheel without the sprocket in place.
@@MototalkUSA Yes I do, I have a 2006 Busa and I just recently took it up to the twisties here in the Bay Area in CA of course after I scrubbed them for the first 150 miles and another thing I do is I sway bike bike to heat my tires up for the sides to before I go up to the twisties. Great in the rain too. The GTs have a little harder compound in the center for a lot of commuting and soft compound on the walls for the curves and turns.
@throttlefreakz Swerving from side to side doesn't put any measureable heat into the tires. Use an infrared heat gun and check it for yourself. The Road 6 is a sport touring tire, and doesn't need the heat that a more high performance tire would.
@@MototalkUSA the 09 R1 it says 32-35 MM i hope it goes away its super annoying plus i just added new tires also, last ditch effort is new chain and sprocket.
@@Kels14B yup good one, worn out sprockets and chain may be an issue too. Sounds like you're on the right track but also these big sport bikes are made that way, they're kinda of clunky even from new but I'm hoping you'll figure out this vibration.
Lol, is your clutch stock? The stock Hayabusa clutch has a back torque limiter (slipper) that will make them do that on a race launch. Drag racers eliminate the back torque limiter and install stiffer clutch springs to make up for the reduction in clamping force. I'm not willing to give up the back torque limiter, nor do I want a stiff clutch lever, so I just launch at 2,500 rpm and screw the throttle on, getting the clutch fully engaged and the throttle fully open within just a couple of bike lengths. It's a very different procedure than something like the R1, which I launch at 8,000 rpm, pinning the throttle wide open on launch and sliding the clutch all the way through first gear to keep the front wheel within an inch or so of the ground.
Rear I do what it calls for 42psi because I have a passenger some times. The front I do 38-40psi even tho it calls for 42 as well. So far so good never had an handling issue.
@@MototalkUSA Buddy, PLEASE stop giving "advice" on stuff you know nothing about- you're gonna get someone hurt or killed. That 42 psi specification is what's required to reach the maximum GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). That's NOT your optimum tire pressure. When motorcycle tires are pumped up rock hard like that, you can't feel what the tire is doing, because any feedback is simply getting lost in a sea of "white noise". You're also minimizing traction, by reducing tire contact patch and preventing the tire from ever warming up. Every tire requires a different tire pressure, but you're probably about 10 psi too high. Your correct tire pressures should give you about a 4 psi pressure rise from cold to hot. For example, I use Pirelli Supercorsa SP tires, and my correct cold tire pressures tend to be around 30/30.
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thanks to our teacher hayabusa
😊😊 you're very welcome!
Love your video. I have a tire machine and balancer just because I own many cars and done them my self for decades
Thanks man! Wow that's awesome, I would like to have a tire machine and balancer, hopefully one day 😊
I just did my first DIY tire change the other week on my Busa. The freaking rear was a royal pain to mount. I got one side over no problem, but thought I was gonna tear the tire up trying to get the second side over the lip of the rim. I ended up using my brothers automotive tire machine to get the last side over and in. The front didn’t seem nearly as bad and I got it on using the same Motion Pro bead breaker tire irons that you have.
Yeah, the trick is to have the tire under that edge or lip of the wheel however they call it, otherwise it's impossible to mount, you're just fighting against the tire and stretching it. Happy to hear it worked out tho. 🙌
Hello sir, Good day... When would you block off plates that busa sir and install a full exhaust and tune? 😐
Hey there! That would be a winter project, It could be this winter, not a sure thing but it'll happen eventually 😉
@@MototalkUSA thanks sir hoping to see that soon, ride safe and tc.. 👍
@@dute007 many thanks man! Stay tuned 😉
Are you still using the stock 190/50 rear tire size?
The Hayabusa turns MUCH better with a 180/55 or 190/55. The taller profile also lays down more rubber when banked over, giving MUCH more traction.
You don't need to do all that fiddling with the rear caliper.
The next time you have the rear caliper off, pull the rear pads out and grind a healthy bevel along the edge of the pads closest to the rear axle, so that from now on, all you have to do is shove the rear wheel in, and the rotor will be guided into place between the pads by the "V" shape formed by those two bevels.
It's an old endurance racing trick- we can change a rear wheel/tire in seconds that way.
I told you tires cost to much to be doing burnouts 😂😂😂😂nice video 🎉
LoL, yes you did tell me man! I should've listened to you man 😅
I'll take it easy this time, or at least I'll try to.
Looks cool , need my tire removed and cleaned , also my chain need adjustment
Thanks brotha! Cool man, that could be a one removal do it all for your wheel/tire 🙌
Do you always balance with the sprocket attached? Would it still work without the sprocket?
I don't think it's possible to balance without the sprocket because the cone on the end would just float in the hole of the wheel without the sprocket in place.
@MototalkUSA No, buddy- you don't balance rear tires with the sprocket carrier- it's just gonna wiggle all over the place.
Great vid first of all, have you tried the michelins Road 6 GT
Thanks man! No I haven't. Do you recommend them?
@@MototalkUSA Yes I do, I have a 2006 Busa and I just recently took it up to the twisties here in the Bay Area in CA of course after I scrubbed them for the first 150 miles and another thing I do is I sway bike bike to heat my tires up for the sides to before I go up to the twisties. Great in the rain too. The GTs have a little harder compound in the center for a lot of commuting and soft compound on the walls for the curves and turns.
@@throttlefreakz that's really good info right there and sounds like the ideal tire. I'll definitely keep it in mind. Thanks man! 👍
@throttlefreakz Swerving from side to side doesn't put any measureable heat into the tires. Use an infrared heat gun and check it for yourself.
The Road 6 is a sport touring tire, and doesn't need the heat that a more high performance tire would.
how many miles on this bike?
also it's maintained very well
I got it brand new 3 years ago. Now It has 21,000 miles. It's pretty well maintained and good condition.
i just had my wheel bearings and cush drive replaced im trying to stop that vibration from launching in 1st gear and 2nd gear
@@Kels14B that should do the trick, also check for proper chain tension.
@@MototalkUSA the 09 R1 it says 32-35 MM i hope it goes away its super annoying plus i just added new tires also, last ditch effort is new chain and sprocket.
@@Kels14B yup good one, worn out sprockets and chain may be an issue too. Sounds like you're on the right track but also these big sport bikes are made that way, they're kinda of clunky even from new but I'm hoping you'll figure out this vibration.
Lol, is your clutch stock? The stock Hayabusa clutch has a back torque limiter (slipper) that will make them do that on a race launch.
Drag racers eliminate the back torque limiter and install stiffer clutch springs to make up for the reduction in clamping force.
I'm not willing to give up the back torque limiter, nor do I want a stiff clutch lever, so I just launch at 2,500 rpm and screw the throttle on, getting the clutch fully engaged and the throttle fully open within just a couple of bike lengths.
It's a very different procedure than something like the R1, which I launch at 8,000 rpm, pinning the throttle wide open on launch and sliding the clutch all the way through first gear to keep the front wheel within an inch or so of the ground.
What tyre pressures do you go for? Front and rear?
Rear I do what it calls for 42psi because I have a passenger some times. The front I do 38-40psi even tho it calls for 42 as well. So far so good never had an handling issue.
@@MototalkUSA Buddy, PLEASE stop giving "advice" on stuff you know nothing about- you're gonna get someone hurt or killed.
That 42 psi specification is what's required to reach the maximum GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating). That's NOT your optimum tire pressure.
When motorcycle tires are pumped up rock hard like that, you can't feel what the tire is doing, because any feedback is simply getting lost in a sea of "white noise".
You're also minimizing traction, by reducing tire contact patch and preventing the tire from ever warming up.
Every tire requires a different tire pressure, but you're probably about 10 psi too high.
Your correct tire pressures should give you about a 4 psi pressure rise from cold to hot. For example, I use Pirelli Supercorsa SP tires, and my correct cold tire pressures tend to be around 30/30.
What is the central hole diameter on rear rim?
It's about 25mm.
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Πως να το ψάξω ?
@@serifis18709 motorcycle wheel balancer.
Love doing bike tires, always such a blast! Not
Hahahahahhahaha I totally hear you man! Honestly tho I'm getting better now and it doesn't seem that bad but it's still a little challenge 😊
Change that gloves man its like you are having it for a year now 🤔
Hahahahaha, I use a new pair every time tho
@@MototalkUSA 😅 am just joking brother ✌️
@@dute007 LoL I know man! That was funny tho 🤣🤣 🙌