What a brilliant hack, Chuck. Need to work on that retraction, but I love this concept. I just integrated the use of a Bluetooth shutter button in EM3D. What the shutter buttons do is register themselves as a wireless keyboard and the large button does a volume up press and the small button does a volume down press. Thought I'd pass along that info in case it helps.
I got inspired by your video and done it on my ender 3. Like you suggest, I wired a traditionnal selfie stick (not bluetooth) to the x limit switch by soldering the two wires of the selfie stick button to the center and right pin of the limit switch. It worked flawlessly with the original timelapse post-processing in cura and I didn't experienced stringing. Thank you for that video ! I wanted to do a timlapse for a while now but didn't have money for a raspberry pi and that method cost me nothing since I already had the selfie stick laying around.
The Stop Motion app has a timer feature. You set the time how often a photo must be taken , the drawback however is your hotend is probably is going to be in all your shots / video. You are not going to have just your printed part showing. Thank you for the video , awesome as always.
Yeah,that results in a random Timelapse as the each layer time is different. And the bed moves around so the print won’t be steady. I’ve just use the Timelapse option in the iPad camera for that type of time lapse.
Great video Chep. In my case, since I don't have the luxury of fast and cheap shipping in Brazil, I've printed a microswitch holder for the X axis and soldered it to an old headphone cable.
I tried this using the Creality slicer (and some dubious G-Code of my own invention) and it did some very strange things. I didn't want to bother with the Octoprint method. THIS is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
replacing the switch on the circuit board for a micro switch is very very easy. De-solder the old switch, solder on two wires that go to a normally open micro switch :D
Get a separate y axis switch and attach it to the 2020 rail instead of the fob and wire it into the fob. Then, every time it rolls to the switch it snaps but because it's under the bed you don't lose any y axis space.
I did something similar, and while it was a bit of work to pull off, it functioned well. I used the insert at layer change plugin to insert just a random word, then I'd take the gcode and use notepad++ to replace the word with a bit of gcode. It would make the printer retract, move the bed forward and the print head to 2mm away from a switch, then bump the switch, then resume printing. I tried the timelapse plugin, but it wouldn't hit the camera shutter at the same time every time, so the bed would be at slightly different positions in each pic, and I got tons of stringing. I did think to use the home button, but I didn't want to since it would inadvertently hit the shutter sometimes. I have a few limit switches which I can wire to headphones with a button. Plug the headphones in, and when the limit switch is pressed the phone takes a Pic. Works beautifully.
Perfect timing as I was planning to use it but felt the settings were lacking for the time-lapse! I also just wired up my DSLR’s remote to the X microswitch to take a picture and works phenomenally!
i wish this was the first video that popped up when i searched for how to make a timelapse. much simpler than anything with octoprint or manually wiring your own limit switch trigger
Great idea! The Octoprint plugin Octolapse caused x and y skipping - only the standard time based time laps works for me. Better to not have so may plug-ins enabled and go for the mechanical solution sometimes
rather than using a bluetooth soloution, using a 3.5mm audio jack you can trigger a pic to be taken much like a selfie stick, which you can then just connect either to the motherboard with some g code, or some form of contacts on the axis
Is there a way to use the M240 (or whatever the code) to activate some pin on the board, and use that signal to trigger a camera? This way we wouldn't need to move the extruder all the way, losing less time for a print.
ok now i NEED that rewiring video for the home button~ I want to use my phone as a timelapse device because i dont want to buy a webcam just for timelapse. @CHEP, do you think we can repurpose those selfie sticks button for this?
This was so cool Chep! Wyze cams have a stop motion setting in the app and I have one of the out door camera so I can set that up to coincide with the movement of the hot end so I can get a stop motion video like you have!
I have a Raspberry Pi Zero W and an old Logitech HD webcam that I pretty much never used. I've been wondering if I can use that with Octoprint for time-lapses.
Im going to try doing this with a mouse and a webcam, smaller camera to mount and I don't need to sacrifice my phone. Also the PC has a whole terabyte of space so I will have no problem recording large prints with many layers. And the cheap mouse should be pretty easy to wire, or perhaps there is a product for clicking the mouse button with breakouts. To trigger it surely I should be able to wire it directly to the X axis switch, since when it is triggered it closes the circuit, meaning the printers X axis detection shouldn't be effected by the mouse click detection circuitry (hopefully). Ill update this message with results good or bad.
@@FilamentFriday Well with any image sequence you will have a date and time code. If you use a program like Bulk Rename Utility you can rename them from their date names to 0001 0002 and so on, this sequence can be recognized by video editing software like hitfilm express as an image sequence which you can then import, shove it on a timeline and export it as an MP4 or whatever you like. I have done it before with individual images from my phone and a gopro. Works great, and is fairly quick.
Timelapses always cause stringing or under extrusion. They really need an electronic trigger, but the print head would have to always be covering the model. Ended up writing a command line script to fix the gcode.
I actually did something similar using the M240 gcode, bluetooth shutter and an arduino. I'm not that good in electronics stuffs so I can't get the shutter to work properly since the resistance on the switch changes when arduino triggers it. But somehow it works
3:00 dude just set retraction to on and have it retract to however many mm/s your extruder is moving my printer is at 70m/s a d so retraction is 7mm haven't had stringing since
this is great and i have tried afew smaller prints. but i find the bed and head does not stay still for long enough. but if i keep the head still for longer then is spams the picture button hhaha
What about adjusting the position of the part on the print bed (instead of the default center) when slicing to make the travel times to hit the switch less? Could this also be used to reduce the stringing?
Chuck, Appreciate the content it's been extremely helpful in my 3d print journey. I downloaded and printed the y axis holder, I bought the wireless Bluetooth remote but the remote drops connection after 90 seconds. Did you have a fix for yhis?
@@FilamentFriday Hmmm maybe it's cause I'm using an android phone and you are using an iPad,.... Maybe the different operating systems allow for different things. Appreciate the help sir.
can you stop your ipad from turning to sleep mode between layers or have it over heated for being on camera mode for 2 days , if not i would use a nikon camera instead with a external trigger switch
First, I don’t timelapse 2 day prints. But you can turn off sleep mode and I’ve never had it overheat waiting to take a picture in the Animate it app. So my method works fine. I just plug it in so it doesn’t run out of battery life.
@@graycbr600 I use it to level the bed before every print so I use this script (these should be the very first lines in your cura start G-code box): ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes G29 ; Auto Bed Level G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move a line over G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Blob prevention This is for an Ender 3 obviously, but the specifics is to add G28 BEFORE G29. G29 is the G-code for auto bed level. If you want to make sure that the bed level data is stored (in case you lose power), you could modify the code I posted to read like this: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes G29 ; Auto Bed Level M500 ; Store data in memory If you do this the bed level data is permanently stored in the printers memory. If you don't want your BLtouch to run every time you start a print you can do this instead: If you have your printer connected to a PC with a USB cable or octoprint you use the console that sends marlin commands to send these commands; G28 ; Home all axis G29 ; Auto bed level once the bed level is done continue with; M500 ; Store all settings If you don't have it connected, you can just home all axis on the printer and run the automatic bed level from the display. Once you have done that make sure to find the option that say "save settings". This does the same thing, but directly on the printer. Once that is done you can load the bed level data using the command M501. So then the start of your printer commands should be like this: ; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G28 ; Home all axes M501 ; Load bed leveling data G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move a line over G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Blob prevention Technically your printer should load the stored bed leveling data you have every time you turn your printer on, but it doesn't hurt to load it anyway. As I mentioned though, this is specifically for my Ender 3, so the coordinates I have in the start of the print could be different from your printer, unless you also have an Ender 3. If you have a different printer you can just cut out everything below G29 or M500/M501 and keep whatever else you have. Hope that makes sense to you.
Is there a way to make it press the android button with your model? I don't have any available ios devices. edit: Also, do you have a link to the clips you were using? I don't have anything like that and your solution looked like it fit perfectly.
Either the X or Y home switch can be used through a MOS FET like a 2N7000 To trigger your switch. The home switch will never see the MOS FET gate. But I agree with some others here, octopi is a better solution. And In the long run it's Much cheaper.
I can't for the life of me find the video where you tightened the spring on the Ender extruder. You had a file for a small printed cap to nest the spring into. Will you please point me to this file?
@@FilamentFriday I can't remember what the video was about, but during the video one of the things you did was print a little round cup. you then took out the extruder spring with some needle nose pliers and seated one end of the extruder spring in the little cup and again compressing the spring with needle nose pliers placed the spring back. The net effect was to increase tension on the extruder springs as it is not adjustable.
@@FilamentFriday after I copy the file it doesn’t go into the scripts folder there is no option to paste. I also tried to save directly into that folder from the raw code but was still unsuccessful.
Maybe try to move the whole Cura App to a place where you have permissions, so your desktop for example. Then Show Package Contents of the Cura on the desktop and copy the script in there. You can move it back to your applications later.
@@FilamentFriday Ive been playing around with the value but again it just stops before hitting the button... Right at the same spot.. Also did you make changes on cura to compensate for losing the print space by attaching the mount? The X axis hits the mount when printing the initial line before the print starts. Does anything else need to be adjusted here that I'm missing?
@@Addzaye chekc the physical setup so that there is no restriction from the movement especially the roller which might be just the end part where it hits.
So the bad news is... These bluetooth doohickeys time out after 1 minute 30 seconds which limits how large your print can be. MINE does at least and they are of the same shape, size, and make.That's probably fine here because the model size limitation of using the y axis. I made a remix of the mount for the original ender 3 or any similar design using 2020 extrusion you can find in the remix section of the original item. I was doing this last year with a makerbot endstop connected to a salvaged selfie stick cable plugged into an older iphone but the results weren't great because it would trigger on the release of the button not the pressing of it. was going to try and use gcode to make it hit the button, move back, and wait, but never got around to it. Could probably use a small circuit to cause it to press and release electronically as well, and use a pair of cheap lighting cable headphones as the trigger.
I've figured out how to do this. You cannot use the printers original X end stop, I tried. I'm making a video and will post what I've done it'll save everyone a lot of time... but these bluetooth things are not the way to go Unless someone can recommend one that doesn't auto-off after 90 seconds.
What a brilliant hack, Chuck. Need to work on that retraction, but I love this concept. I just integrated the use of a Bluetooth shutter button in EM3D. What the shutter buttons do is register themselves as a wireless keyboard and the large button does a volume up press and the small button does a volume down press. Thought I'd pass along that info in case it helps.
I got inspired by your video and done it on my ender 3. Like you suggest, I wired a traditionnal selfie stick (not bluetooth) to the x limit switch by soldering the two wires of the selfie stick button to the center and right pin of the limit switch. It worked flawlessly with the original timelapse post-processing in cura and I didn't experienced stringing. Thank you for that video ! I wanted to do a timlapse for a while now but didn't have money for a raspberry pi and that method cost me nothing since I already had the selfie stick laying around.
This video needs more credit, I was looking for this and I found other videos. I found the perfect one now from you thanks
The Stop Motion app has a timer feature. You set the time how often a photo must be taken , the drawback however is your hotend is probably is going to be in all your shots / video. You are not going to have just your printed part showing. Thank you for the video , awesome as always.
Yeah,that results in a random Timelapse as the each layer time is different. And the bed moves around so the print won’t be steady. I’ve just use the Timelapse option in the iPad camera for that type of time lapse.
You are awesome Chuck. I can't wait to see the mod to the iPhone trigger. Seems easy enough but we will let Chuck do it.
Great video Chep. In my case, since I don't have the luxury of fast and cheap shipping in Brazil, I've printed a microswitch holder for the X axis and soldered it to an old headphone cable.
Thank you this was very helpful I have been looking for a way to do this without octolaps
Wait how does chep only have 100+k subs. He literally is the only guy I trust for 3d printing
Unexpected sponsor segways are tight!
Aw man unexpected references to other channels are tight!
It's super easy, barely an inconvenience!
I tried this using the Creality slicer (and some dubious G-Code of my own invention) and it did some very strange things. I didn't want to bother with the Octoprint method. THIS is exactly what I needed. Thank you!
replacing the switch on the circuit board for a micro switch is very very easy. De-solder the old switch, solder on two wires that go to a normally open micro switch :D
Get a separate y axis switch and attach it to the 2020 rail instead of the fob and wire it into the fob. Then, every time it rolls to the switch it snaps but because it's under the bed you don't lose any y axis space.
I did something similar, and while it was a bit of work to pull off, it functioned well. I used the insert at layer change plugin to insert just a random word, then I'd take the gcode and use notepad++ to replace the word with a bit of gcode. It would make the printer retract, move the bed forward and the print head to 2mm away from a switch, then bump the switch, then resume printing. I tried the timelapse plugin, but it wouldn't hit the camera shutter at the same time every time, so the bed would be at slightly different positions in each pic, and I got tons of stringing.
I did think to use the home button, but I didn't want to since it would inadvertently hit the shutter sometimes. I have a few limit switches which I can wire to headphones with a button. Plug the headphones in, and when the limit switch is pressed the phone takes a Pic. Works beautifully.
Perfect timing as I was planning to use it but felt the settings were lacking for the time-lapse! I also just wired up my DSLR’s remote to the X microswitch to take a picture and works phenomenally!
i wish this was the first video that popped up when i searched for how to make a timelapse. much simpler than anything with octoprint or manually wiring your own limit switch trigger
I also found with iphone Headphones plugged into the phone or ipad, you can take a photo by pressing the + volume button : )
Great idea! The Octoprint plugin Octolapse caused x and y skipping - only the standard time based time laps works for me. Better to not have so may plug-ins enabled and go for the mechanical solution sometimes
Great stuff! I was wondering how to add scripts anyway, this helped a lot!
I also found that if you use some thick foam double sided tape, it works to press the button without needing a clamp.
rather than using a bluetooth soloution, using a 3.5mm audio jack you can trigger a pic to be taken much like a selfie stick, which you can then just connect either to the motherboard with some g code, or some form of contacts on the axis
Pretty interesting! Thanks a lot, Chuck! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Is there a way to use the M240 (or whatever the code) to activate some pin on the board, and use that signal to trigger a camera? This way we wouldn't need to move the extruder all the way, losing less time for a print.
That's even better than my question and would help octolapse also. Brillant idea bro.
Love analog solutions like this. Great job Chuck!
Interesting approach to timelabs
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us 👍😊
I wonder if there are any unused GPIO lines on the µCU and if that could be used? Custom Marlin firmware?
I did something on my ender 5 plus and it looked amazing as the bed lowers.
ok now i NEED that rewiring video for the home button~ I want to use my phone as a timelapse device because i dont want to buy a webcam just for timelapse.
@CHEP, do you think we can repurpose those selfie sticks button for this?
It's cool that you want to use your smartphone but webcams are like 10 Bucks now days.
The advantage is the stop motion app automatically puts the images together into the timelapse.
@@allcrafter3747 how do you trigger the shutter on the webcam though?
@@electronicsandewastescrapp7384 I don't know. He was just saying Webacam are to expensive which they aren't. That's the whole point of my comment.
This. Is. Genius.
Just awesome
This was so cool Chep! Wyze cams have a stop motion setting in the app and I have one of the out door camera so I can set that up to coincide with the movement of the hot end so I can get a stop motion video like you have!
Sweet! Great job!
Nice Segway!
I have a Raspberry Pi Zero W and an old Logitech HD webcam that I pretty much never used. I've been wondering if I can use that with Octoprint for time-lapses.
Im going to try doing this with a mouse and a webcam, smaller camera to mount and I don't need to sacrifice my phone. Also the PC has a whole terabyte of space so I will have no problem recording large prints with many layers. And the cheap mouse should be pretty easy to wire, or perhaps there is a product for clicking the mouse button with breakouts. To trigger it surely I should be able to wire it directly to the X axis switch, since when it is triggered it closes the circuit, meaning the printers X axis detection shouldn't be effected by the mouse click detection circuitry (hopefully). Ill update this message with results good or bad.
How do you plan to create the video from the pictures you take?
@@FilamentFriday Well with any image sequence you will have a date and time code. If you use a program like Bulk Rename Utility you can rename them from their date names to 0001 0002 and so on, this sequence can be recognized by video editing software like hitfilm express as an image sequence which you can then import, shove it on a timeline and export it as an MP4 or whatever you like. I have done it before with individual images from my phone and a gopro. Works great, and is fairly quick.
Sounds good. The stop motion outputs the video automatically so that’s why I chose it. I like simple.
@@FilamentFriday What works for you is best for you :)
Nice approach, Chuck!
I wondered how they did this...thanks..😀🇬🇧
hi chep, can you make video for introduce picture during prainting for mks screen ?
Did you not come up with another attachment yet for the ender 3 v2 for x axis maybe ??
That gonna help me a lot when i get my own 3d Printee🔥😍👍
Awesome. Can you do a video on bridging on ender 3?
Timelapses always cause stringing or under extrusion. They really need an electronic trigger, but the print head would have to always be covering the model. Ended up writing a command line script to fix the gcode.
Шикарно! Спасибо!
@CHEP who are you? linus tech tips? with that amazing Segway into your sponsor? lol love the videos
How do we do it in cura... the settings?
Is there a way to make the remote wired so the battery doesn't run out?
Yuo can solder an apropiate dc power supply to the battery pins of the remote controller
Awesome idea, thanks for the efforts
Simply genious!!!! Thanks very much!!!
I actually did something similar using the M240 gcode, bluetooth shutter and an arduino. I'm not that good in electronics stuffs so I can't get the shutter to work properly since the resistance on the switch changes when arduino triggers it. But somehow it works
Thanks for the video. Searching "cura timelapse no octolapse/octoprint" only brings out octoprint tutorial lol
3:00 dude just set retraction to on and have it retract to however many mm/s your extruder is moving my printer is at 70m/s a d so retraction is 7mm haven't had stringing since
so cool! can you do this with the creality wifi and camra. i am 100% doing this on my printer
Don’t know. But if you could you still need to process the pictures into a video. The app does that for me.
this is great and i have tried afew smaller prints. but i find the bed and head does not stay still for long enough. but if i keep the head still for longer then is spams the picture button hhaha
Very cool
What about adjusting the position of the part on the print bed (instead of the default center) when slicing to make the travel times to hit the switch less? Could this also be used to reduce the stringing?
I did put the Cube at the front of the bed for this reason. Watch from 4:15.
Are the filament friday toolkits gonna be available soon?
Great Video, I wonder if you could mod the script and use it in Prusa Slicer ?
Thanks a lot!!! Its exactly what Im looking for…
Would it work with android?
The smaller button is for android.
@@FilamentFriday thank you
The mechanical activation is really resourceful and inventive but still kind of feels like a caveman's solution :)
Chuck,
Appreciate the content it's been extremely helpful in my 3d print journey. I downloaded and printed the y axis holder, I bought the wireless Bluetooth remote but the remote drops connection after 90 seconds. Did you have a fix for yhis?
I have not seen that.
@@FilamentFriday Hmmm maybe it's cause I'm using an android phone and you are using an iPad,.... Maybe the different operating systems allow for different things.
Appreciate the help sir.
Is there anyway to increase travel speed to and from switch?
Check Specify a return speed.
How about relocating the print on the bed when slicing? You could make it so the it is closer to the position for activating the switch.
How will stopping to take pictures effect the bonding of the layers together?
Very little.
@@FilamentFriday I have found really bad layer bonding if the print is paused for several minutes.
This is paused for a second or two not minutes.
can you stop your ipad from turning to sleep mode between layers or have it over heated for being on camera mode for 2 days , if not i would use a nikon camera instead with a external trigger switch
First, I don’t timelapse 2 day prints. But you can turn off sleep mode and I’ve never had it overheat waiting to take a picture in the Animate it app. So my method works fine. I just plug it in so it doesn’t run out of battery life.
hello I'm not going to study the custom timelapse now, I can't find the folder how do I add the script?
In configuration.adv has a section for adding time-lapse to marlin.
Is there a way to do this on prusaslicer
Super. Thanks 👍
wit the android button being smaller will it work with android
another great video ..
just installed 4.8.0 & lost the G code for BLTouch .. could you plz reply with code & where to place in Gcode list
many thanks
Are you talking about the G code for automatic bed leveling?
@@halsoy yes & where to put in list please
@@graycbr600 I use it to level the bed before every print so I use this script (these should be the very first lines in your cura start G-code box):
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto Bed Level
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move a line over
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Blob prevention
This is for an Ender 3 obviously, but the specifics is to add G28 BEFORE G29. G29 is the G-code for auto bed level.
If you want to make sure that the bed level data is stored (in case you lose power), you could modify the code I posted to read like this:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto Bed Level
M500 ; Store data in memory
If you do this the bed level data is permanently stored in the printers memory. If you don't want your BLtouch to run every time you start a print you can do this instead:
If you have your printer connected to a PC with a USB cable or octoprint you use the console that sends marlin commands to send these commands;
G28 ; Home all axis
G29 ; Auto bed level
once the bed level is done continue with;
M500 ; Store all settings
If you don't have it connected, you can just home all axis on the printer and run the automatic bed level from the display. Once you have done that make sure to find the option that say "save settings". This does the same thing, but directly on the printer.
Once that is done you can load the bed level data using the command M501. So then the start of your printer commands should be like this:
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
M501 ; Load bed leveling data
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move a line over
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z5.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up to move nozzle away from bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Blob prevention
Technically your printer should load the stored bed leveling data you have every time you turn your printer on, but it doesn't hurt to load it anyway.
As I mentioned though, this is specifically for my Ender 3, so the coordinates I have in the start of the print could be different from your printer, unless you also have an Ender 3. If you have a different printer you can just cut out everything below G29 or M500/M501 and keep whatever else you have.
Hope that makes sense to you.
@@halsoy thats great many thanks
Is there a way to make it press the android button with your model? I don't have any available ios devices.
edit: Also, do you have a link to the clips you were using? I don't have anything like that and your solution looked like it fit perfectly.
The Bluetooth remote he is using works on Android/iOS. I have some of those remotes.
@@David_Ladd I know, but when I looked at the Amazon page, it appears to have a separate button for Android and iOS devices.
You can flip the fob 180°
Hello! So I have a problem where when I auto home it goes to the middle of the bed. How do I fix it to go to the bottom left edge? Thank you
Did you change anything on your Ender 3?
there is setting to chose where it goes when you add timelapse script in cura
I swear to god if you keep smiling at me and not looking me in the eye we’re gonna have problems
I'm a newbie and am clearly missing the point😕 How does this improve your prints?
It doesn’t. It’s a fun way to show them being built to share on social media or with friends.
Either the X or Y home switch can be used through a MOS FET like a 2N7000 To trigger your switch. The home switch will never see the MOS FET gate.
But I agree with some others here, octopi is a better solution. And In the long run it's Much cheaper.
Cool idea but I think Octoprint/octolapse would be simpler to implement unless there was a reason to not use it.
What tripod are u using
nice video
I can't for the life of me find the video where you tightened the spring on the Ender extruder. You had a file for a small printed cap to nest the spring into. Will you please point me to this file?
I don’t remember that video
@@FilamentFriday I can't remember what the video was about, but during the video one of the things you did was print a little round cup. you then took out the extruder spring with some needle nose pliers and seated one end of the extruder spring in the little cup and again compressing the spring with needle nose pliers placed the spring back. The net effect was to increase tension on the extruder springs as it is not adjustable.
Found it. 3:59 th-cam.com/video/MaMYMTX1Xl4/w-d-xo.html
@@FilamentFriday Thanks!!!
Can you do a video of using different size nozzles
I have but a revisit with larger is probably a good idea. th-cam.com/video/TiBarKlmIkI/w-d-xo.html
I drag and dropped the custom plug in into the script folder but it won’t accept it, any solutions?
Try copy/paste
@@FilamentFriday after I copy the file it doesn’t go into the scripts folder there is no option to paste. I also tried to save directly into that folder from the raw code but was still unsuccessful.
Maybe try to move the whole Cura App to a place where you have permissions, so your desktop for example. Then Show Package Contents of the Cura on the desktop and copy the script in there. You can move it back to your applications later.
The original Timelapse plugin has been updated
I tried this everything is fine and working perfectly,except retraction,please help
@@BlueSkull24 is the extruder pushing out 3-8mm of filament on the return to the print?
My phone camera turns off after few sec. while whIting
Time lapse for cheap thanks
I've set my Y-axis position but it stops just short of the camera button. Anyone having this same issue?
Change the y axis value.
@@FilamentFriday Ive been playing around with the value but again it just stops before hitting the button... Right at the same spot..
Also did you make changes on cura to compensate for losing the print space by attaching the mount? The X axis hits the mount when printing the initial line before the print starts. Does anything else need to be adjusted here that I'm missing?
@@Addzaye chekc the physical setup so that there is no restriction from the movement especially the roller which might be just the end part where it hits.
The Y axis can hit the mount so I adjust the start and end code to prevent that.
Move the Y (bed) by hand and verify it can move far enough.
So the bad news is... These bluetooth doohickeys time out after 1 minute 30 seconds which limits how large your print can be. MINE does at least and they are of the same shape, size, and make.That's probably fine here because the model size limitation of using the y axis. I made a remix of the mount for the original ender 3 or any similar design using 2020 extrusion you can find in the remix section of the original item. I was doing this last year with a makerbot endstop connected to a salvaged selfie stick cable plugged into an older iphone but the results weren't great because it would trigger on the release of the button not the pressing of it. was going to try and use gcode to make it hit the button, move back, and wait, but never got around to it. Could probably use a small circuit to cause it to press and release electronically as well, and use a pair of cheap lighting cable headphones as the trigger.
I've figured out how to do this. You cannot use the printers original X end stop, I tried. I'm making a video and will post what I've done it'll save everyone a lot of time... but these bluetooth things are not the way to go Unless someone can recommend one that doesn't auto-off after 90 seconds.
Ahahaha soo funny :)
2nd!
1st
Cool idea and greate work, but not practical
How is it not practical as it works great for me.
@@FilamentFriday I think it's practical as well, it's a perfect cheap solution.
So is 3d printing then i guess? Weird attitude bro.
In configuration.adv has a section for adding time-lapse to marlin.