This is awesome information. I’m new to 3D printing but have become pretty comfortable in Cura since I started using it. I even downloaded the Arachne beta but was wondering why I didn’t have any of the settings in my “custom” menu. I didn’t even realize that I could just tick a box and they would show up. That alone is worth the sub.
Sorry, I have not enough money to pay "REJOINDRE" (it's in french), but, seriously : THANK's for explaining, correctly, showing in a really GOOD way !!! I'm engeener (ok, 54 years old) beginning in 3D prints, but after problems of learning how to (as a beginner), what you propose is really ... WELL
In my experience, if you crank your speeds Ironing is MUCH faster, and looks just as good or even better. These are settings someone discovered for an Ender3, but (hopefully) should work on other printers: Pattern: Zig-zag Ironing Line Spacing: 0.2mm Ironing Flow: 25% Ironing Inset: 0.2mm Ironing Speed: 150mm/s * Ironing Acceleration: 500mm/s ** Ironing Jerk: 20mm/s ** Skin Overlap Percentage: 10% Skin Overlap: 0.04mm * Yes, one hundred and fifty ** You need to enable acceleration control and jerk control to access these settings I fired up Fusion360 and quickly designed a model trying to copy the test piece you did and sliced it in Cura. Using an unmodified version of the included Ender3 profile, no Ironing was 2hrs 40mins, while Ironing (all surfaces) enabled was a staggering 4hrs 02mins. Using the same profile with the custom settings, the Ironing (all surfaces) time was just 2hrs 56mins. I've been using these settings for nearly a year now, and not only is it a lot faster and better looking than before, it's also fun to watch 😅
Hey! Thank you for the recommendations. I will definitely pin this and give it ago to see how it compares to what I was getting. If the quality is good and it is able to shave alot of time off then that is great. Have a wonderful New Years!!
Extremely high-quality sacrificial parts for Lost PLA Casting: - Ironing + Non-Planar Slicing - Variable Layer Height - "Lightning Infill" - 3D Gyroid Infill + Gradient Infill - "Arc Welder" software - 0.1 millimeter nozzle Note: I also recommend using a toothbrush to clean your nozzle periodically.
Commenting to attempt to save a comment here. This is a lot of features that help with part quality. Speaking of, and sorry for the question a year later - do you combine all of these in one slicer? From basic googling it seems many features are unique to certain slicers and non-planar for example needs a custom build of cura all on its own. Or can they all be cobbled together in a diy build of cura (aside from the gcode post processing plugins)?
awesome video. thanks. i too have noticed the digging in cura, especialy when its set to the default 45deg angle. still havent been able to tune it out even after 10 xyz test cubes later. wont give up
Happy Christmas nice video I have used ironing in the past but not for a while. I seem to recall I used Z hop too. Try Z hop and see if there is any difference. Great videos 👍🏻🎄
@@ModBotArmy I've been using S3D for my CR-10 and have even found that, in some cases, it works best for my Raise 3D. But there are sometimes...issues. Already, Cura has proven to yield better results using nylon on the CR10 (all settings being as equal as I can reasonably set). And...I'm going to see what happens with the R3D.
Really good information - Thank you for all the videos ; we really are on the cutting edge of 3D printing these days - I still remember my first 3d printer back in 2015 and god forbid you could make a simple print come out even half decent on a 5k machine only because the slicers were just so terrible (generally an afterthought of the machine developers) - you had to rely on Solidworks or MasterCam to get Gcodes well enough to do what you wanted them to do.
It is insane how bad the slicing software was. I mean it did slice the files but you had such little control or information to be able to monitor what was going on. Very happy with how far the industry has come as a whole. Cheers!
Hi, watched your 3d print farm/garden video. Really appreciate sharing your experience with us. My question is have u thought about printing phone cases? How far it is possible via 3d printing ?
I use cura for my ender 3 pro, when I use ironing I usually get clogs in my nozzle, and this is really annoying if there are top layers in the middle of the print.
@@ModBotArmy Right back at you, you rock and have a wonderful new years! PS put one more vote in for Prusa Slicer, dont own a Prusa, but I just love the interface and it is far easier to read when you have poor eye sight.
When printing out a similar sign to the ironing one is there a way to print in one single pass the top layer before the letters start being printed? It would eliminate that line pattern that shows up when the nozzle jumps around where the letters would be
Tried it the other day, smallish text was a no go with zigzag ironing. Had 1 letter look amazing and the rest were garbage. Have not played with it since to try to tune it. That one later was sweet though, lol.
Thank you for this video. I really didn't know this. I tried the ironing on a simple coin. I got a point in the middle. Any idea how I can prevent that?
The noise I would say is similar I feel like it is pretty damn quiet. The Genius might be a bit quieter there is at least one extra fan on the Hornet. It has been so long since I have assembled the genius it is tough to remember but it is fairly similar as far as assembly. The quality has been pretty damn good on the hornet not that the genius is not. The main real difference is one is bowden with a v6 style hotend and one is dd with a volcano aero style hotend. I think the Genius is more diverse as far as material compatibility but the hornet has much less weight on the gantry due to the bowden. Its standard profile is 80mm/s so it is able to whip around much quicker.
So this only affects the actual print, and not the 3d model itself? I'm trying to print something with a flat surface but there's a thousand vectors I can't figure out how to smooth it
I need to increase the x and y dimensions. Which printer would you use as a starting point? I was thinking about the creality 5 plus. I need a print area of 20 inches by 40 inches and z can stay the same or ideally be 10 inches. I want to run the nylon carbon filament. Would you be interested in doing a hack video with this modification? I am wondering if the larger X and Y dimensions would be ok in the cura software. Thanks for all your videos.
Cura screwed up a print of mine doing this. The nozzle really dug into the part and caused several errors. Default settings. I mean.... I could experiment, but I feel like it's just another factor to worry about, when there's already a *lot*.
Good question, took me a while to find as well. Go to preview, then just under it is a long bar with a section called "color scheme". Click on that then there's a drop-down to see various preview types.
The lines In the print are actually from fusion 360. If you convert it to a mesh then save it it'll make em disappear. Happened with a few stls i edited and then exported them directly to cura. Looks fine until you print them and they have those ugly lines
That's the bed surface and increased extrusion width for the first layer. Also decreasing the z offset will improve the surface finish but may result in a harder to remove part
This looks really nice. I can’t seem to connect my Anet a8 to the new Cura design. I have to go back pretty far to use it. It works on the old one because I can manually connect to the port. With the new one I can’t find the option, do you have any recommendations?
Hey Voodoo! I have very rarely if ever used Cura over USB connection. I either am slicing and saving to a memory card or printing over USB. For this video I saved it to a flash drive. I have no idea what they could have done that would make it where an older driver is not supported :(. I hope you are able to figure out.
I've also seen some other video where the guy put his prints on a rotating platform in a transparent box-like device which then spews out a fine mist of isopropyl alcohol. This also seemed to make the outside layer of the print very smooth and glossy. However, I assume this smooth effect is basically the outer layer melting or something? 🙂
That is polysmooth and I believe it is a PLA that works like ABS for smoothing except with less toxic materials and fumes. The machine itself, I can't remember the name but it is certainly an interesting video and filament.
@@cocopup7 Ah, so the name of that procedure is "Polysmooth"; or is that the brand name of the device? Either way it looked pretty interesting as it made the prints look even more smooth than before. 🙂
@@DanakarEndeel I think it is the name of the filament but if you look it up on here, you should be able to find the video again for the name as I too don't remember the name of the machine but only the filament name.
@@cocopup7 Ah I see. I thought that the machine was just spraying a mist of isopropyl alcohol to smooth the models. I didn't realize that there was some special filament involved.😉
@@DanakarEndeel The company is called Polymaker. The special filament is called PolySmooth. The machine that does the work is called the Polysher. PolySmooth is a special material called PVB, which functions pretty much the same as PLA except for being affected by Isopropyl Alcohol (PLA is not affected by it), and it costs around $37 USD for .75 kg. For reference in case you're not from the USA, a "standard" (not discounted) roll of PLA typically costs $26 USD for a full kg, and I can get that down to around $12 a roll if I buy in bulk (even cheaper if I wanted to buy more than 20 rolls at a time, but I wouldn't have a place to store them if I did). So, not only do you get less of it on a roll (.75 kg vs 1.0 kg), the price is about 50% more. Oh, and the Polysher machine runs for around 20+ minutes, and every video I've seen about it the reviewer had to put the part back in for a little extra time, so figure around a half hour bonus post-processing time for every part you make. Hope that helps.
Pretty weird these diagonal ridges in the part it makes in some cases. On the handle it was smooth but on the other ones the software or settings need some work i guess.
For some reason when I enable all the iron settings in cura 4.9.1 it doesn't show up in the print settings drop down menu at all. Shell is gone too? What the heck.
Hay, I was searching for this today and in Version 4.13.0 of cura there is no ironing available. Can someone help me where to find it in the updated Cura version please?
For the issue at around 8:30, search for the combing setting (or similar name; I can't remember exactly), and set it to "not in skin". That *should* fix it. I wish this was the default setting 🙄
@@proptart7933 4.9.1, problem solved already, settings only showed up when I restarted cura, no idea why. Thanks for the tip, still getting reacquainted after not doing anything with the printer for such a long time, this'll come in handy.
TLDR; - theres an option in advanced called ironing. click this and the head runs over the top layer making it smoother at the cost of time. 6:55 for results. Youre welcome.
@@ModBotArmy I guess I'm a fanboy, Prusaslicer. I have a MK3/MMU2, Mini and Ender 3... All have Prusa profiles.... I also have a Mono X and Photon Zero, for those I use Lychee. I don't knock Cura, I just don't have a desire to learn it at this point... Thanks, and I've gotten complements on my ModBot shirt... 🤓
@@christopherenoch4230 Gotcha! I really want to pick up a mini at some point and still might. The wait time is always what has turned me away and anyone who buys them sells them at a pretty steep markup. If/When I do I will likely dive into PrusaSlicer a bit. I still do have quite a bit I would like to cover in Cura so hopefully some of it will be transferable to Cura. Woohoo! That is awesome I am happy to hear :) Have a great new years brotha, thank you for the support!!
i dont understand why the 3d prints of the youtubers experts look so bad, they are horrible even. with my cheap ender3 i get way better and smoother prints.
Just some feedback, dude's high pitched, fast paced and monotone voice is giving me a headache. I'd rather listen to my wife yelling at me about spending too much time on 3D printing.
Imagine watching a video thats 12 minitues long that has 0 filler and is 100% information. one of the best 3d printing channels. 👍
0% infill 100% perimeters
This made me smile. Thank you very much for watching and going out of your way to leave a kind comment. Cheers to you!
Shan-GRI-LAAAA 😂😂😂👍🏽
12 minutes....pssshhh. You never watch videos at 2X speed?
Try it, it makes you listen more carefully and you get all the info in 1/2 the time.
This is awesome information. I’m new to 3D printing but have become pretty comfortable in Cura since I started using it. I even downloaded the Arachne beta but was wondering why I didn’t have any of the settings in my “custom” menu. I didn’t even realize that I could just tick a box and they would show up. That alone is worth the sub.
Sorry, I have not enough money to pay "REJOINDRE" (it's in french), but, seriously : THANK's for explaining, correctly, showing in a really GOOD way !!!
I'm engeener (ok, 54 years old) beginning in 3D prints, but after problems of learning how to (as a beginner), what you propose is really ... WELL
In my experience, if you crank your speeds Ironing is MUCH faster, and looks just as good or even better.
These are settings someone discovered for an Ender3, but (hopefully) should work on other printers:
Pattern: Zig-zag
Ironing Line Spacing: 0.2mm
Ironing Flow: 25%
Ironing Inset: 0.2mm
Ironing Speed: 150mm/s *
Ironing Acceleration: 500mm/s **
Ironing Jerk: 20mm/s **
Skin Overlap Percentage: 10%
Skin Overlap: 0.04mm
* Yes, one hundred and fifty
** You need to enable acceleration control and jerk control to access these settings
I fired up Fusion360 and quickly designed a model trying to copy the test piece you did and sliced it in Cura. Using an unmodified version of the included Ender3 profile, no Ironing was 2hrs 40mins, while Ironing (all surfaces) enabled was a staggering 4hrs 02mins. Using the same profile with the custom settings, the Ironing (all surfaces) time was just 2hrs 56mins.
I've been using these settings for nearly a year now, and not only is it a lot faster and better looking than before, it's also fun to watch 😅
Hey! Thank you for the recommendations. I will definitely pin this and give it ago to see how it compares to what I was getting. If the quality is good and it is able to shave alot of time off then that is great. Have a wonderful New Years!!
thank you, this is just awesome, i will try it as soon as possible
Thank you very much, it works great for me!
Extremely high-quality sacrificial parts for Lost PLA Casting:
- Ironing + Non-Planar Slicing
- Variable Layer Height
- "Lightning Infill"
- 3D Gyroid Infill + Gradient Infill
- "Arc Welder" software
- 0.1 millimeter nozzle
Note: I also recommend using a toothbrush to clean your nozzle periodically.
Qq
Commenting to attempt to save a comment here. This is a lot of features that help with part quality.
Speaking of, and sorry for the question a year later - do you combine all of these in one slicer? From basic googling it seems many features are unique to certain slicers and non-planar for example needs a custom build of cura all on its own. Or can they all be cobbled together in a diy build of cura (aside from the gcode post processing plugins)?
There's a special place in heaven for people like you.
Cool, didn't know this feature existed, will definitely check it out!
Can try making your top surface skin line width, in experimental settings, to about 75% of your nozzle width to get almost as nice in way less time.
A newbie seeking help. So well done been an issue I needed to fix on a few things
awesome video. thanks. i too have noticed the digging in cura, especialy when its set to the default 45deg angle. still havent been able to tune it out even after 10 xyz test cubes later. wont give up
If you do figure it out please share what works for you :)
@@ModBotArmy Same here.
He gave up.
I tried Ironing on some red opaque PETG and it really makes the post processing way easier
Have any advice or video on blobs? Thanks
Oh I can't wait to play with this on my enders thanks for the tip buddy ☺️
Absolutely! Thank you for watching :)
Happy Christmas nice video I have used ironing in the past but not for a while. I seem to recall I used Z hop too. Try Z hop and see if there is any difference.
Great videos 👍🏻🎄
I swore I had that on but I will have to go back and try again to see.
Excellent video, as always, Daniel! As I'm going going back to giving Cura a go, this is an EXCELLENT tip!! Thank you so much!
Awesome! Let me know if you give it a try. :) What slicer have you been using??
@@ModBotArmy I've been using S3D for my CR-10 and have even found that, in some cases, it works best for my Raise 3D. But there are sometimes...issues. Already, Cura has proven to yield better results using nylon on the CR10 (all settings being as equal as I can reasonably set). And...I'm going to see what happens with the R3D.
Hey thanks alot! Great tip here...gonna check this out for sure! minimal sanding possibly!
Really good information - Thank you for all the videos ; we really are on the cutting edge of 3D printing these days - I still remember my first 3d printer back in 2015 and god forbid you could make a simple print come out even half decent on a 5k machine only because the slicers were just so terrible (generally an afterthought of the machine developers) - you had to rely on Solidworks or MasterCam to get Gcodes well enough to do what you wanted them to do.
It is insane how bad the slicing software was. I mean it did slice the files but you had such little control or information to be able to monitor what was going on. Very happy with how far the industry has come as a whole. Cheers!
Let me try with Cura! I did ironing only in PrusaSlicer.
Hi, watched your 3d print farm/garden video. Really appreciate sharing your experience with us.
My question is have u thought about printing phone cases? How far it is possible via 3d printing ?
I use cura for my ender 3 pro, when I use ironing I usually get clogs in my nozzle, and this is really annoying if there are top layers in the middle of the print.
Another great video. I dont use Cura, but I do enjoy watching you regardless. Hope you had a great Christmas.
Thanks Jon you rock! I hope that you had a great Christmas as well and have a wonderful New Years!
@@ModBotArmy Right back at you, you rock and have a wonderful new years! PS put one more vote in for Prusa Slicer, dont own a Prusa, but I just love the interface and it is far easier to read when you have poor eye sight.
Yuri Gagarin forever! 🚀🚀🚀
When printing out a similar sign to the ironing one is there a way to print in one single pass the top layer before the letters start being printed? It would eliminate that line pattern that shows up when the nozzle jumps around where the letters would be
I wonder if coating the outside of your nozzle with teflon would improve the results for ironing.
How does your carbide 3-d cnc machine work ? Do you think it is worth the money ? Thanks
Tried it the other day, smallish text was a no go with zigzag ironing. Had 1 letter look amazing and the rest were garbage. Have not played with it since to try to tune it. That one later was sweet though, lol.
Between this and Uv resin to smooth I’ll never have to sand and bondo again hahaha thanks man !
thanks so much this video was extremely helpful
So cool! Thanks for spreading the word
Thanks for the video help me put a lot of good info in my printing book in the settings section
NICE JOB going to give it a try
avoid part when moving is your goto here :) no scoring marks
Thank you for this video. I really didn't know this. I tried the ironing on a simple coin. I got a point in the middle. Any idea how I can prevent that?
This was just what I have been struggling with. Too bad my slicer doesn't seem to have the feature. I'll have to upgrade to Cura.
its great you really should
How does the Artillery Hornet compare to the Artillery Genius noise and quality easy of assembly wise??
The noise I would say is similar I feel like it is pretty damn quiet. The Genius might be a bit quieter there is at least one extra fan on the Hornet. It has been so long since I have assembled the genius it is tough to remember but it is fairly similar as far as assembly. The quality has been pretty damn good on the hornet not that the genius is not. The main real difference is one is bowden with a v6 style hotend and one is dd with a volcano aero style hotend. I think the Genius is more diverse as far as material compatibility but the hornet has much less weight on the gantry due to the bowden. Its standard profile is 80mm/s so it is able to whip around much quicker.
Hey mate, i really enjoy watching your Videos, keep on like you do, love it. Stay safe and greetings from germany
Hey! Thank you very much for the kind comment. Greetings from California I hope that you are doing well :)
@@ModBotArmy Thanks i am doing great, i just got my second printer for christmas an ender 3. Looking forward to do some Upgrades to it.
10:47 "CAD design" RIP in peace
Very nice content
You've earned my sub
So this only affects the actual print, and not the 3d model itself? I'm trying to print something with a flat surface but there's a thousand vectors I can't figure out how to smooth it
Nice Yuri's Night shirt.
Thanks!
I need to increase the x and y dimensions. Which printer would you use as a starting point? I was thinking about the creality 5 plus. I need a print area of 20 inches by 40 inches and z can stay the same or ideally be 10 inches. I want to run the nylon carbon filament. Would you be interested in doing a hack video with this modification? I am wondering if the larger X and Y dimensions would be ok in the cura software. Thanks for all your videos.
The problem I've found with ironing is that it works fine for small parts, but once you have a flat surface that 300x300mm then it really falls apart.
👍😎👍. Thanks for the concise explanation. Happy new year!
Thanks for watching! Happy new years to you too!
Cura screwed up a print of mine doing this. The nozzle really dug into the part and caused several errors. Default settings. I mean.... I could experiment, but I feel like it's just another factor to worry about, when there's already a *lot*.
what pluggin do I have to install to see the colored preview with the line tracing? My cura has only yellow on the slice preview
Good question, took me a while to find as well. Go to preview, then just under it is a long bar with a section called "color scheme". Click on that then there's a drop-down to see various preview types.
this is dope
The lines In the print are actually from fusion 360. If you convert it to a mesh then save it it'll make em disappear. Happened with a few stls i edited and then exported them directly to cura. Looks fine until you print them and they have those ugly lines
do you have adjusted profiles for hornet ? i bought it few days ago and still have issues with adhesion
What about the bottom layer? How do you make it smooth like the top layer?
That's the bed surface and increased extrusion width for the first layer. Also decreasing the z offset will improve the surface finish but may result in a harder to remove part
‘Without further ado let’s get right….’ Queue advert.
This looks really nice. I can’t seem to connect my Anet a8 to the new Cura design. I have to go back pretty far to use it. It works on the old one because I can manually connect to the port. With the new one I can’t find the option, do you have any recommendations?
Hey Voodoo! I have very rarely if ever used Cura over USB connection. I either am slicing and saving to a memory card or printing over USB. For this video I saved it to a flash drive. I have no idea what they could have done that would make it where an older driver is not supported :(. I hope you are able to figure out.
Did you ever figure out a setting that removed those nozzle marks? I've been having the same issue with ironing.
Have you tried with the Z hop setting turned on?
I have not tested it myself, but I think, it might help.
Try changing the combing (or similar name- I can't remember it exactly) setting to "not in skin" 😊
What does ironing do that a heat gun can't in way less time?
thank bro
I've also seen some other video where the guy put his prints on a rotating platform in a transparent box-like device which then spews out a fine mist of isopropyl alcohol. This also seemed to make the outside layer of the print very smooth and glossy. However, I assume this smooth effect is basically the outer layer melting or something? 🙂
That is polysmooth and I believe it is a PLA that works like ABS for smoothing except with less toxic materials and fumes. The machine itself, I can't remember the name but it is certainly an interesting video and filament.
@@cocopup7 Ah, so the name of that procedure is "Polysmooth"; or is that the brand name of the device? Either way it looked pretty interesting as it made the prints look even more smooth than before. 🙂
@@DanakarEndeel I think it is the name of the filament but if you look it up on here, you should be able to find the video again for the name as I too don't remember the name of the machine but only the filament name.
@@cocopup7 Ah I see. I thought that the machine was just spraying a mist of isopropyl alcohol to smooth the models. I didn't realize that there was some special filament involved.😉
@@DanakarEndeel The company is called Polymaker. The special filament is called PolySmooth. The machine that does the work is called the Polysher. PolySmooth is a special material called PVB, which functions pretty much the same as PLA except for being affected by Isopropyl Alcohol (PLA is not affected by it), and it costs around $37 USD for .75 kg. For reference in case you're not from the USA, a "standard" (not discounted) roll of PLA typically costs $26 USD for a full kg, and I can get that down to around $12 a roll if I buy in bulk (even cheaper if I wanted to buy more than 20 rolls at a time, but I wouldn't have a place to store them if I did). So, not only do you get less of it on a roll (.75 kg vs 1.0 kg), the price is about 50% more. Oh, and the Polysher machine runs for around 20+ minutes, and every video I've seen about it the reviewer had to put the part back in for a little extra time, so figure around a half hour bonus post-processing time for every part you make. Hope that helps.
Pretty weird these diagonal ridges in the part it makes in some cases. On the handle it was smooth but on the other ones the software or settings need some work i guess.
great video
How do I activate ironing in QIDI software?
Well this will be useful.
For some reason when I enable all the iron settings in cura 4.9.1 it doesn't show up in the print settings drop down menu at all. Shell is gone too? What the heck.
Hay, I was searching for this today and in Version 4.13.0 of cura there is no ironing available.
Can someone help me where to find it in the updated Cura version please?
For the issue at around 8:30, search for the combing setting (or similar name; I can't remember exactly), and set it to "not in skin".
That *should* fix it. I wish this was the default setting 🙄
Can't find not in skin when I search combing.
@@gaatjeniksaan5606 Darn. I'll have a look next time I'm at my computer. What version of cura are you using?
@@proptart7933 4.9.1, problem solved already, settings only showed up when I restarted cura, no idea why. Thanks for the tip, still getting reacquainted after not doing anything with the printer for such a long time, this'll come in handy.
Can you just use an iron?
subbed.
Thanks great :-)
It amazes me how can you can talk that way without breathing ... or you do? Where did you get your oratory skills?
🖖 👍
Ironing ON/OFF (equivalent to RTX ON/OFF)
He's so dreamy- my girlfriend
Don’t be like me and use it on the rocktopus
Only issue is it adds a ton of time to your print...
That is true :( I tried small part without ironing ant the print time was 14 minutes - with ironing it was 23...
Соркин, ты ли это?
TLDR; - theres an option in advanced called ironing. click this and the head runs over the top layer making it smoother at the cost of time. 6:55 for results. Youre welcome.
Probably a great video... I don't do Cura... Thanks!
What is your slicer???
@@ModBotArmy I guess I'm a fanboy, Prusaslicer. I have a MK3/MMU2, Mini and Ender 3... All have Prusa profiles.... I also have a Mono X and Photon Zero, for those I use Lychee. I don't knock Cura, I just don't have a desire to learn it at this point... Thanks, and I've gotten complements on my ModBot shirt... 🤓
Lol
Atleast it's translatable to many different slicers
@@christopherenoch4230 Gotcha! I really want to pick up a mini at some point and still might. The wait time is always what has turned me away and anyone who buys them sells them at a pretty steep markup. If/When I do I will likely dive into PrusaSlicer a bit. I still do have quite a bit I would like to cover in Cura so hopefully some of it will be transferable to Cura. Woohoo! That is awesome I am happy to hear :) Have a great new years brotha, thank you for the support!!
"Hamburger menu" Really? o_O
It’s an official term 😬
i dont understand why the 3d prints of the youtubers experts look so bad, they are horrible even. with my cheap ender3 i get way better and smoother prints.
shut
your sound is screaming loud!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!ouch ouch
Just some feedback, dude's high pitched, fast paced and monotone voice is giving me a headache. I'd rather listen to my wife yelling at me about spending too much time on 3D printing.