It's Easy! Automated Continuous 3d Printing Que On My Ender 3
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2024
- It's easy to set up your 3d printer to automatically print many of the same or different parts from a print queue. In this video I will show you have I have been using my Ender 3 to automatically 3d print up to a hundred parts at a time automatically.
Cad Files and Fusion 360 Class: learn.watchitprint.com/course...
Plugin #1 OctoPrint-Print-Queue: github.com/michaelnew/Octopri...
Plugin #2 Continuous Print Queue Plugin: github.com/Zinc-OS/continuous...
Physical parts: www.amazon.com/ideas/amzn1.ac...
Title: It's Easy! Automated Continuous 3d Printing Que On My Ender 3
#ender3 #3dprinting #Automated - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
"It's a bit like a pizza--" *Boop* XD
bruh that made me laugh so hard XD
@@mreynolds9886 Yeah man... Me 2...boop
The quality of your videos and tutorials is really great! I'll hope you'll do more soon!
I Print with PLA on GLASS with no adhesive needed. It sticks to the bed on higher temperatures and has 0 adhesion to bed on lower temps. So definitely works like a charm in processes like yours.
Cool, I normally use a bit of glue on the glass so I'll give it a try without it and see what happens. Normally I would need to cool the glass a bit to get the part to self release.
@@WatchItPrint Please note that your bed has to be pretty clean in order to get consistent results. At first I couldn't get it to stick without adhesives at all but when I tried 1mm extrusion width on first layer, it was magic ! You can lift the bed by grabbing the part when the bed is hot.
@@WatchItPrint wouldnt the glue come off after a couple prints anyway
@@WatchItPrint yeah, you don't need anything on glass. Just clean it up with soap and water. It's important to have your bed leveled perfectly as well!
I like the idea of your enclosure having the ability to just dump finished parts into it! LOL that is great!
That pizza, lol. Thanks for sharing. I'm still trying to get my print quality really good.
I recognize your inspiration from TOT you have a good role model. What a legend old uncle tony is, I hope he comes back to us soon.
really appreciate this video series
I bought a printer because I got fascinated by your video about sweepy 😅 I am enjoying pretty much ! Thanks for your videos they are gold for me ❤
Great to hear! Have fun and make some cool stuff :)
So much experience and trial and error went into this knowledge. Good Stuff!
I know this is a few months out but, I’ve had a little success with my Prusa i3 Mk2 with the stock pei sheet. The filament I’m using is the 3kg spool of RepRapper white extra strong PLA pro. I have had the parts consistently release once the bed has cooled down. My printer is running at 220c for the hot end, 73c for the bed, and 105% flow. I haven’t had as much success with the grey or black RepRapper PLA yet. I’m going to give modified Gcode a try to get it to knock the parts and repeat the print once I need a run of white parts.
I was hoping you would remember this channel. Meep and the gang misses you, and someday it would be great to hear an update on life :)
I absolutely NEED this for while I’m at work!!!
Great system! Hope I get my printer this dialed in one day.
this video is super handy even when not automating your 3D printer.
Love the This Old Tony vibes!
that pizza joke that carried on from the last vid is what made me sub. Good work buddy
Makers Muse had a great idea for a print bed "G10" apparently will release reliably when parts have cooked.
Some advice on how you printed the orange pusher arm like which orientation and if you used supports? Thanks
Im interested in the threaded rod holding up the z axis. Is this to adjust the Z square to the bed? Im currently having that issue with my printer
really cool i loke the part that you modify print the first line to wipe the nozzle. how did you do that?
creative man with 10k subs, u deserve more :)
I see a lot of ThisOldTony in your video style lol it’s really cool
I would strongly recommend using something similar to the prusa textured steel plate, because of the texture all your print shrinks even slightly it auto releases
Hi, I was just wondering could you make a vid on how to make your enclosure. Thanks
The back side of the Stock build plate for ender 3v2 releases pla automatically when cooling if you run 65 degree bed temp.
I wonder. Do you know if there are printer specific designs for those little bumpers like youve mentioned? Or do i just have to design one myself?
It would be great if can show how to install the OctoPrint-Print-Queue plug-in.
Dude what happened to you? You made great videos and your automation was so cool. Watched you when I first bought my Ender 3 about two years ago. TH-cam is calling!
Can I ask what G code you have to do the purge off the bed?
This guy said boop, with a comedic cut...i am now watching the whole video and liking
The first b roll got me subbed
You remind me a bit of This Old Tony besides his dry humor lol. Keep up the good work!
Can this system be used on pla+ material and if yes would you consider selling a prototype for the right price?
Would this system work on a large format printer like the anycubic kobra max
Which orientation did you print the orange pusher arm?
Nice Video Thx:)
I Use a FilaPrint BuildPlate for my Printer. It should also fit for this
Do you have a .stl file this support to axis Z (I mean the plastic thing at the beginning and end of a long screws )
Can your share more about your enclosure?
Will you upload a build video?
can you write the Gcode for priming the nozzle in the air?
please, I dont know how to write the Gcode necessairy for that.
What is the minimum model raspberry pi do you need for octo print? also how many printers can 1 pi run?
That puring off the bed is cool, can you share how you achieved that?
hey guys!! what do you do with the remains bunch of empty spool??
Your voice sounded so familiar, but when you said sweepy I realized you are Brothgar. Love your ONI vids.
My PETG releases anywhere below 40C on my anycubic ultrabase glass bed. I often need to print a brim if there's any chance of cool air blowing past my printer lol
11:49 you mention you have a seperet vid for the G-code " why I do what I do". Where pray tell, would one find that vid? :) cheers
One thing I did when I needed automate my printer was put it on top of a foam ramp that made the parts slide down into a bin just in front of the machine.
Maybe I'm blind but I do not see the links to STLs for the hotend baffle
Can you maybe help me with the "bed cleaning script"? i have an ender 3 V2 and used the default. but the next thing i see is that my extruder is clogged with ALLL the filemant :O
Will this work on with a ender 3 s1 pro?
what is the initial gcode to extrude in the outside of the printer?
Great content
Yo. Hold up. Those keycaps are great. Did you work out how to print symbols onto/into them, like with a different filament color maybe?
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
thank your going one top video best interesaint your idea
i have one of those PEI-(matte flat sheet, not powder coated)-on-springsteel beds and i've noticed when printing PLA on 60C it releases _relatively_ reliably _almost_ by itself when the bed cools to
I can confirm that this works great on a PEI sheet. Use the gcode M190 R35 to wait for the bed to cool to at least 35 degrees and prints can easily slide off even pushing with the hotend fan. A dedicated pusher is better and more reliable for low prints but not required
awesome video thank you
Have you thought about adding a long(4-8 ft) build plate on a rail to a 45 degree printer? The low inertia on the long crawling axis should make it doable with COTS stepping motors. I think you can get a decent ratio of print time to processing time.
Could a Elegoo Neptune 3 work?
Hmm....I've been looking for a reason to buy a dial indicator. Now I have a legitimate reason....I'm sad (technically disappointed in myself) that I have not thought of buying one for bed leveling.
How does spool changes get handled?
"It's a bit like a pizza" made me laugh out loud, nice!
Do you have stl files for the hotend sweeper?
Nice. I'll try this. Just one opinion, when it cools down, why do you rise the hot end to the top? It's already at the top of the part when it end, so just rising 10mm would be enough. Or am I missing something?
If you happened to print "from back to front", then you would push a taller piece backwards.
I’ve just subscribed to the page but I can’t modify the cad files so I can’t print them to get started. Does someone know what to do? I’ve already try to convert them to JPEG and every single format. This is quite stupid … thanks for your help
Hol up! Is this Brothgar from ONI? Welcome Back My Fellow 3D-Printed Duplicants!
Would this work with a Neptune 2s?
I had no idea Brothgar had a channel like this! I heard the voice and was like.. is brothgar showing us 3d printing stuff instead of a duplicants abuse of physics?!
Man these videos are great hope you come back soon.(its been a year.) :(
Please, share an stp files of your frame strengthtening construction
Petg starts releasing for me about 70c on glass coated with a thin layer of gluestick and hairspray. If I let it cool to 40 to 50 I bet I could do this reliably.
awesome!
I am able to get parts to self release with PLA on my MK3S textured PEI bed
I can't access the hotend files link, there is an option in Google Drive?
Hey how helpful are the braces on the front and back of the printer, and can you post a link?
I use them to square up the printer. Mine was a bit twisted along the Z axis. a360.co/3fyygAQ a360.co/31zPlT0 a360.co/39AvveF a360.co/3dFt7ET
New to 3d printing so sorry if this is a dumb question, but what does the enclosure do? Cut down on noise because mine is so loud.
Enclosures are to help cut down on noise, but more importantly to keep the part and bed heated during the print process. A warm environment helps keep the print from warping or just plain cutting down on the time it takes your print bed to heat back up after a print.
r u running on klipper firmware?
Nice !
gold PEI double sided bed on the shiny side and inland PLA has stuck the whole print and releases like butter right after print
Wait.. So cura has a darkmode? Awesome!
Bro, can you upload your slicer profile?
Love it
Nice!!
good job
This is smart.
I don't see the print files in the discription. I would like to have them or an alternative. can anybody help?
You and your pizza 🤣
Didn't know you had a second channel
But the purge line is not gonna be effective after the first time since it dosent get removed... cool idea tho but in practise idk. Ill have to try.
Could you link that shown keycaps? I tried alot of different keycaps designs and found none are optimized for printing, which makes them really hard to print
With smaller parts like that I'd invest in smaller diameter nozzles so that print optimization matters less. Increasing the possible resolution (amount of detail) of my printer allowed me to print more accurate models, with less time designing the model to work well with a stock 0.4mm nozzle.
That pizza 🍕 bit was enough to hit like and subscribe without seeing the rest (not right away at least). 🤣🤣
Way cool...
My prusa mini with smooth pei sheet releases reliably at room temperature.
I have the same Creality bed. I can't seem to find the best z-offset. I can make it so that the first layer looks great but the print is so hard to remove. When I adjust the offset a bit higher, the print becomes relatively easier to remove but the first layer starts to have gaps between lines. What can I do?
Change first layer height to 0.2, its usually at 0.3. solved the issue for me
The old tried and true Ave Click works every time
Can I please get the stl for the parts pusher/scraper/paddle?
There is a link to my website in the video description. The files are free.
Great now I'm hungry
so for petg i found you can use a acryllic sheet coated with a mix of isopropyl alcohol and dima 3d bed addesion spray
if you cant find the spray mix acetone and gluestick 50 50 and then add 10 percent of the mix in water to itself
Now it’s time to speed up your 3D printer when printing 💪🤣. It looks like it’s a very slow one 😎. Nice topic and footage 👌
He mentions it around 15:30 in he does this because going to fast can cause slipping and cause issues later on.
3:27 welp guess this isn't for me
I'm surprised you haven't changed your motherboard with silent stepper motors.
How do you get your bed to stay level for so many prints?
Yellow springs or silicone spacers. I level my bed once every 3 months. Runs nonstop every day
Pla on window glass with a thin coat of glue. At 55° grippy enough at 30° pops right off.
This is exactly what i was looking for! I print a heap of pla. What thickness is your glass?