I Print with PLA on GLASS with no adhesive needed. It sticks to the bed on higher temperatures and has 0 adhesion to bed on lower temps. So definitely works like a charm in processes like yours.
Cool, I normally use a bit of glue on the glass so I'll give it a try without it and see what happens. Normally I would need to cool the glass a bit to get the part to self release.
@@WatchItPrint Please note that your bed has to be pretty clean in order to get consistent results. At first I couldn't get it to stick without adhesives at all but when I tried 1mm extrusion width on first layer, it was magic ! You can lift the bed by grabbing the part when the bed is hot.
@@WatchItPrint yeah, you don't need anything on glass. Just clean it up with soap and water. It's important to have your bed leveled perfectly as well!
M140 S0 ; set bed to 0 for cooldown M105; report temp M190 R35; set bed to 35 C M105; report temp Here is some codes to replace the repeated M190 codes
I know this is a few months out but, I’ve had a little success with my Prusa i3 Mk2 with the stock pei sheet. The filament I’m using is the 3kg spool of RepRapper white extra strong PLA pro. I have had the parts consistently release once the bed has cooled down. My printer is running at 220c for the hot end, 73c for the bed, and 105% flow. I haven’t had as much success with the grey or black RepRapper PLA yet. I’m going to give modified Gcode a try to get it to knock the parts and repeat the print once I need a run of white parts.
One thing I did when I needed automate my printer was put it on top of a foam ramp that made the parts slide down into a bin just in front of the machine.
Dude what happened to you? You made great videos and your automation was so cool. Watched you when I first bought my Ender 3 about two years ago. TH-cam is calling!
I know I'm a tad late to the party, but I haven't seen this explicit bit of hands-on wisdom mentioned in the comments, so here goes: I've gotten my hands on a Creality Ender 3 v2 about a month ago, and the glass build plate with the black whatever it is that it shipped with (I can't in clear conscience make a more precise claim than that, sorry - part numbers, apparently, aren't a thing with these) is nigh perfection for PLA and PETG: once you figure out the temps and clean the plate (I use 99% isopropyl), everything sticks down as if welded on and doesn't warp, without external adhesives or brims or an enclosure, and pops off like magic once the plate is cool enough. Temperatures I use (these aren't magic numbers, do your own testing): - PETG: first layer at 235C on hot end, 80C on build plate, then 235/75; print releases at around 45C on the plate - PLA: first layer 210/65, then 205/60, releases at ~35 - PLA+: first layer 215/65, then 210/60, releases at ~35; these are for eSUN PLA+, but also worked perfectly for a local-made spool that claims it's pure PLA (lies, lies I tell you) None of these produced fumes I could smell, and I've been told they shouldn't ever need forced ventillation. So, yeah, PETG can be automated pretty well, too. (Just don't try actual bare glass: there are many horror stories of it completely bonding to it and ripping chunks out as the print cools.)
I've ruined 2 glass build surfaces with PETG before I learned my lesson and started using G10/FR4. Painters tape works miracles for it and if you get your tape spaced perfectly, no lines through the first layer either.
I would strongly recommend using something similar to the prusa textured steel plate, because of the texture all your print shrinks even slightly it auto releases
i have one of those PEI-(matte flat sheet, not powder coated)-on-springsteel beds and i've noticed when printing PLA on 60C it releases _relatively_ reliably _almost_ by itself when the bed cools to
I can confirm that this works great on a PEI sheet. Use the gcode M190 R35 to wait for the bed to cool to at least 35 degrees and prints can easily slide off even pushing with the hotend fan. A dedicated pusher is better and more reliable for low prints but not required
My PETG releases anywhere below 40C on my anycubic ultrabase glass bed. I often need to print a brim if there's any chance of cool air blowing past my printer lol
it may be possible to do it with PLA if your making small parts and have a automatic solvent release. just have it dump 99% alcohol onto the bed after the print then it should come off aslong as the alcohol forms a layer between the bed and the PLA part. another option is to setup a servo to lower a stick of glue and have the printer head spread it on the bed between prints but you would probably need alcohol to clean the bed aswell.
@@KitchenLiquidators i want you to print a 200mm high pole that is only 1 inch wide out of pla on glass. make sure to use a bed slinger printer. no raft or brim. lets see if you can do it. i know i can print that at 80mm/s with my ender 3 aslong as i used PEI. try that with glass and it will just fall over.
I had no idea Brothgar had a channel like this! I heard the voice and was like.. is brothgar showing us 3d printing stuff instead of a duplicants abuse of physics?!
Petg starts releasing for me about 70c on glass coated with a thin layer of gluestick and hairspray. If I let it cool to 40 to 50 I bet I could do this reliably.
What is the minimum model raspberry pi do you need for octo print? also how many printers can 1 pi run? That puring off the bed is cool, can you share how you achieved that?
Nice. I'll try this. Just one opinion, when it cools down, why do you rise the hot end to the top? It's already at the top of the part when it end, so just rising 10mm would be enough. Or am I missing something?
Ciao, volevo chiederti se per la calibrazione autonomamente dello z-offset tra una stampa e l’altra usavi una cella di carico montata sul nozzle, se no come hai fatto?
Hmm....I've been looking for a reason to buy a dial indicator. Now I have a legitimate reason....I'm sad (technically disappointed in myself) that I have not thought of buying one for bed leveling. How does spool changes get handled?
Have you thought about adding a long(4-8 ft) build plate on a rail to a 45 degree printer? The low inertia on the long crawling axis should make it doable with COTS stepping motors. I think you can get a decent ratio of print time to processing time.
Have anyone success on Gizmo Dorks Polycarbonate? I found that the more PURE polycarbonate in material the harder it print. I have to use glass+ glue stick + chamber 53 C + thicker width + a brim to prevent it from warping. What I consider is warping free and easy base on my experience is that polymaker PC max, Priline CF -PC, Esun PC (all around 100-105 C heat resistance except Priline the worst 75 C soften). These filament have lower heat resistance and it mix with abs so it stick well to abs slurry. The difficult one are Gizmo Dorks PC ( about 135 C soften), 3dxmax PC (the one with 147 C soften).
Could you link that shown keycaps? I tried alot of different keycaps designs and found none are optimized for printing, which makes them really hard to print
With smaller parts like that I'd invest in smaller diameter nozzles so that print optimization matters less. Increasing the possible resolution (amount of detail) of my printer allowed me to print more accurate models, with less time designing the model to work well with a stock 0.4mm nozzle.
I have the same Creality bed. I can't seem to find the best z-offset. I can make it so that the first layer looks great but the print is so hard to remove. When I adjust the offset a bit higher, the print becomes relatively easier to remove but the first layer starts to have gaps between lines. What can I do?
I Print with PLA on GLASS with no adhesive needed. It sticks to the bed on higher temperatures and has 0 adhesion to bed on lower temps. So definitely works like a charm in processes like yours.
Cool, I normally use a bit of glue on the glass so I'll give it a try without it and see what happens. Normally I would need to cool the glass a bit to get the part to self release.
@@WatchItPrint Please note that your bed has to be pretty clean in order to get consistent results. At first I couldn't get it to stick without adhesives at all but when I tried 1mm extrusion width on first layer, it was magic ! You can lift the bed by grabbing the part when the bed is hot.
@@WatchItPrint wouldnt the glue come off after a couple prints anyway
@@WatchItPrint yeah, you don't need anything on glass. Just clean it up with soap and water. It's important to have your bed leveled perfectly as well!
"It's a bit like a pizza--" *Boop* XD
bruh that made me laugh so hard XD
@@mreynolds9886 Yeah man... Me 2...boop
I was confused by the comments til it happened and now I wanna know more
I bought a printer because I got fascinated by your video about sweepy 😅 I am enjoying pretty much ! Thanks for your videos they are gold for me ❤
Great to hear! Have fun and make some cool stuff :)
I recognize your inspiration from TOT you have a good role model. What a legend old uncle tony is, I hope he comes back to us soon.
M140 S0 ; set bed to 0 for cooldown
M105; report temp
M190 R35; set bed to 35 C
M105; report temp
Here is some codes to replace the repeated M190 codes
I like the idea of your enclosure having the ability to just dump finished parts into it! LOL that is great!
this video is super handy even when not automating your 3D printer.
The prusa textured Bed works great with PETG. It releases it very reliable and don't need a gluestick or something similar.
Makers Muse had a great idea for a print bed "G10" apparently will release reliably when parts have cooked.
The quality of your videos and tutorials is really great! I'll hope you'll do more soon!
I was hoping you would remember this channel. Meep and the gang misses you, and someday it would be great to hear an update on life :)
I know this is a few months out but, I’ve had a little success with my Prusa i3 Mk2 with the stock pei sheet. The filament I’m using is the 3kg spool of RepRapper white extra strong PLA pro. I have had the parts consistently release once the bed has cooled down. My printer is running at 220c for the hot end, 73c for the bed, and 105% flow. I haven’t had as much success with the grey or black RepRapper PLA yet. I’m going to give modified Gcode a try to get it to knock the parts and repeat the print once I need a run of white parts.
The back side of the Stock build plate for ender 3v2 releases pla automatically when cooling if you run 65 degree bed temp.
Maybe I'm blind but I do not see the links to STLs for the hotend baffle
It would be great if can show how to install the OctoPrint-Print-Queue plug-in.
that pizza joke that carried on from the last vid is what made me sub. Good work buddy
Love the This Old Tony vibes!
One thing I did when I needed automate my printer was put it on top of a foam ramp that made the parts slide down into a bin just in front of the machine.
So much experience and trial and error went into this knowledge. Good Stuff!
Dude what happened to you? You made great videos and your automation was so cool. Watched you when I first bought my Ender 3 about two years ago. TH-cam is calling!
so for petg i found you can use a acryllic sheet coated with a mix of isopropyl alcohol and dima 3d bed addesion spray
if you cant find the spray mix acetone and gluestick 50 50 and then add 10 percent of the mix in water to itself
Pla on window glass with a thin coat of glue. At 55° grippy enough at 30° pops right off.
This is exactly what i was looking for! I print a heap of pla. What thickness is your glass?
Forever waiting for the return of Brothgar. We miss you
This guy said boop, with a comedic cut...i am now watching the whole video and liking
I absolutely NEED this for while I’m at work!!!
I know I'm a tad late to the party, but I haven't seen this explicit bit of hands-on wisdom mentioned in the comments, so here goes:
I've gotten my hands on a Creality Ender 3 v2 about a month ago, and the glass build plate with the black whatever it is that it shipped with (I can't in clear conscience make a more precise claim than that, sorry - part numbers, apparently, aren't a thing with these) is nigh perfection for PLA and PETG: once you figure out the temps and clean the plate (I use 99% isopropyl), everything sticks down as if welded on and doesn't warp, without external adhesives or brims or an enclosure, and pops off like magic once the plate is cool enough.
Temperatures I use (these aren't magic numbers, do your own testing):
- PETG: first layer at 235C on hot end, 80C on build plate, then 235/75; print releases at around 45C on the plate
- PLA: first layer 210/65, then 205/60, releases at ~35
- PLA+: first layer 215/65, then 210/60, releases at ~35; these are for eSUN PLA+, but also worked perfectly for a local-made spool that claims it's pure PLA (lies, lies I tell you)
None of these produced fumes I could smell, and I've been told they shouldn't ever need forced ventillation.
So, yeah, PETG can be automated pretty well, too. (Just don't try actual bare glass: there are many horror stories of it completely bonding to it and ripping chunks out as the print cools.)
I've ruined 2 glass build surfaces with PETG before I learned my lesson and started using G10/FR4. Painters tape works miracles for it and if you get your tape spaced perfectly, no lines through the first layer either.
I would strongly recommend using something similar to the prusa textured steel plate, because of the texture all your print shrinks even slightly it auto releases
That pizza, lol. Thanks for sharing. I'm still trying to get my print quality really good.
3:27 welp guess this isn't for me
really appreciate this video series
i have one of those PEI-(matte flat sheet, not powder coated)-on-springsteel beds and i've noticed when printing PLA on 60C it releases _relatively_ reliably _almost_ by itself when the bed cools to
I can confirm that this works great on a PEI sheet. Use the gcode M190 R35 to wait for the bed to cool to at least 35 degrees and prints can easily slide off even pushing with the hotend fan. A dedicated pusher is better and more reliable for low prints but not required
1:45 "You see, it's a bit like a pizza"
Hi, I was just wondering could you make a vid on how to make your enclosure. Thanks
Man these videos are great hope you come back soon.(its been a year.) :(
I see a lot of ThisOldTony in your video style lol it’s really cool
You remind me a bit of This Old Tony besides his dry humor lol. Keep up the good work!
My PETG releases anywhere below 40C on my anycubic ultrabase glass bed. I often need to print a brim if there's any chance of cool air blowing past my printer lol
Your voice sounded so familiar, but when you said sweepy I realized you are Brothgar. Love your ONI vids.
Some advice on how you printed the orange pusher arm like which orientation and if you used supports? Thanks
Do you have a .stl file this support to axis Z (I mean the plastic thing at the beginning and end of a long screws )
Wait.. So cura has a darkmode? Awesome!
creative man with 10k subs, u deserve more :)
"It's a bit like a pizza" made me laugh out loud, nice!
The first b roll got me subbed
My PLA+ seems to pop right off once the 60° build plate drops below 45~
Ender 3 v2
Hol up! Is this Brothgar from ONI? Welcome Back My Fellow 3D-Printed Duplicants!
Where did you go
Can I ask what G code you have to do the purge off the bed?
it may be possible to do it with PLA if your making small parts and have a automatic solvent release. just have it dump 99% alcohol onto the bed after the print then it should come off aslong as the alcohol forms a layer between the bed and the PLA part. another option is to setup a servo to lower a stick of glue and have the printer head spread it on the bed between prints but you would probably need alcohol to clean the bed aswell.
pla comes off regular glass and the creality glass plate with no issues.
@@KitchenLiquidators sticking pla to glass is a giant pain.
@@jimbobbyrnes 60 degree bed and right offset no issues
@@KitchenLiquidators what printer you using?
@@KitchenLiquidators i want you to print a 200mm high pole that is only 1 inch wide out of pla on glass. make sure to use a bed slinger printer. no raft or brim. lets see if you can do it. i know i can print that at 80mm/s with my ender 3 aslong as i used PEI. try that with glass and it will just fall over.
11:49 you mention you have a seperet vid for the G-code " why I do what I do". Where pray tell, would one find that vid? :) cheers
I had no idea Brothgar had a channel like this! I heard the voice and was like.. is brothgar showing us 3d printing stuff instead of a duplicants abuse of physics?!
Printing "Que" lmao
3d printing what?
gold PEI double sided bed on the shiny side and inland PLA has stuck the whole print and releases like butter right after print
Petg starts releasing for me about 70c on glass coated with a thin layer of gluestick and hairspray. If I let it cool to 40 to 50 I bet I could do this reliably.
What is the minimum model raspberry pi do you need for octo print? also how many printers can 1 pi run?
That puring off the bed is cool, can you share how you achieved that?
Nice. I'll try this. Just one opinion, when it cools down, why do you rise the hot end to the top? It's already at the top of the part when it end, so just rising 10mm would be enough. Or am I missing something?
If you happened to print "from back to front", then you would push a taller piece backwards.
Bed adhesion: you could try to put a brim only on the corners
Where is this possible?
@@rolandlindorfer1 If your slicer doesn't do it, you can either model it into your CAD or place really short cylinders in the corners on your slicer
Ciao, volevo chiederti se per la calibrazione autonomamente dello z-offset tra una stampa e l’altra usavi una cella di carico montata sul nozzle, se no come hai fatto?
You and your pizza 🤣
I wonder. Do you know if there are printer specific designs for those little bumpers like youve mentioned? Or do i just have to design one myself?
Hmm....I've been looking for a reason to buy a dial indicator. Now I have a legitimate reason....I'm sad (technically disappointed in myself) that I have not thought of buying one for bed leveling.
How does spool changes get handled?
The old tried and true Ave Click works every time
Yo. Hold up. Those keycaps are great. Did you work out how to print symbols onto/into them, like with a different filament color maybe?
Can your share more about your enclosure?
Will you upload a build video?
Which orientation did you print the orange pusher arm?
Would this system work on a large format printer like the anycubic kobra max
Great system! Hope I get my printer this dialed in one day.
Great video😀 !!
P.S. Can you share the startup gcode to prime the nozzle??
Did you ever find this?
really cool i loke the part that you modify print the first line to wipe the nozzle. how did you do that?
Have you thought about adding a long(4-8 ft) build plate on a rail to a 45 degree printer? The low inertia on the long crawling axis should make it doable with COTS stepping motors. I think you can get a decent ratio of print time to processing time.
Have anyone success on Gizmo Dorks Polycarbonate? I found that the more PURE polycarbonate in material the harder it print. I have to use glass+ glue stick + chamber 53 C + thicker width + a brim to prevent it from warping. What I consider is warping free and easy base on my experience is that polymaker PC max, Priline CF -PC, Esun PC (all around 100-105 C heat resistance except Priline the worst 75 C soften). These filament have lower heat resistance and it mix with abs so it stick well to abs slurry. The difficult one are Gizmo Dorks PC ( about 135 C soften), 3dxmax PC (the one with 147 C soften).
My prusa mini with smooth pei sheet releases reliably at room temperature.
Please, share an stp files of your frame strengthtening construction
Pei build plate also can for pla and petg
Polycarbonate sticks to glass? I have to try this... So far i've been successful with PC sheet only for PC printing.
Didn't know you had a second channel
I'm surprised you haven't changed your motherboard with silent stepper motors.
I am able to get parts to self release with PLA on my MK3S textured PEI bed
Can this system be used on pla+ material and if yes would you consider selling a prototype for the right price?
Now it’s time to speed up your 3D printer when printing 💪🤣. It looks like it’s a very slow one 😎. Nice topic and footage 👌
He mentions it around 15:30 in he does this because going to fast can cause slipping and cause issues later on.
Can I please get the stl for the parts pusher/scraper/paddle?
There is a link to my website in the video description. The files are free.
Could you link that shown keycaps? I tried alot of different keycaps designs and found none are optimized for printing, which makes them really hard to print
With smaller parts like that I'd invest in smaller diameter nozzles so that print optimization matters less. Increasing the possible resolution (amount of detail) of my printer allowed me to print more accurate models, with less time designing the model to work well with a stock 0.4mm nozzle.
That pizza 🍕 bit was enough to hit like and subscribe without seeing the rest (not right away at least). 🤣🤣
can you write the Gcode for priming the nozzle in the air?
please, I dont know how to write the Gcode necessairy for that.
But the purge line is not gonna be effective after the first time since it dosent get removed... cool idea tho but in practise idk. Ill have to try.
Are you This old Tony 3d printer cousin? Haha
Cheers from Argentina!
hey guys!! what do you do with the remains bunch of empty spool??
I have the same Creality bed. I can't seem to find the best z-offset. I can make it so that the first layer looks great but the print is so hard to remove. When I adjust the offset a bit higher, the print becomes relatively easier to remove but the first layer starts to have gaps between lines. What can I do?
Change first layer height to 0.2, its usually at 0.3. solved the issue for me
Yeah, I like this old Tony as well.😉
Im interested in the threaded rod holding up the z axis. Is this to adjust the Z square to the bed? Im currently having that issue with my printer
1:49 "It's a bit like a pizza" ..Nope... moving on.... Haha!
Look, I just came here for the pizza and to automate continuous 3d printing... and I've just finished the pizza😁
Hey how helpful are the braces on the front and back of the printer, and can you post a link?
I use them to square up the printer. Mine was a bit twisted along the Z axis. a360.co/3fyygAQ a360.co/31zPlT0 a360.co/39AvveF a360.co/3dFt7ET
Nice Video Thx:)
I Use a FilaPrint BuildPlate for my Printer. It should also fit for this
Would this work with a Neptune 2s?
My printer starts clearing bed before reaching threshold of 25. It starts the clear at 32. M190 r25 is set I made sure to code this 5 times.
I can't access the hotend files link, there is an option in Google Drive?
The structured steel sheet from Prusa releases PETG during cool down phase.
thank your going one top video best interesaint your idea
How do you get your bed to stay level for so many prints?
Yellow springs or silicone spacers. I level my bed once every 3 months. Runs nonstop every day