you have one of the best tutorials out there for this. I've already bought a remote shutter release when i could have just wired one myself using a limit switch!
That's a slick way of triggering the cam... I wanted to set my cam up too, and I didn't want to use octolapse..... even more interesting is that screen hack to virtually press the button NICE!
Thanks for the post processing script ❤️😉 , I've tried a lot to get rid of this excess filament away from the model but nothing helped. Your g code works great 😍😌
Issac! Genus Dude! I have been meaning to do this - I do not want to go the Raspberry Pi route yet - I just got the printer less than a month LOL I've been in the printing industry since 2015 and modding was almost always done once you've COMPLETELY exploited every aspect of the printer. Times have changed. So thank you for this!!
BRO! Very well done! I will search your channel to see if you made an updated video to this since this is 2 years old. I just got a Creality CR10S Pro V2 and I want to make time lapse videos like yours. Liked & subscribed! Thanks for making this video!!!
Nice! I can do this while I wait for my raspberry pi and the cameras to travel from China to the moon and finally to my house. I think phone looks better than most of those tiny dslr looking micro cameras sadly phones sometimes need to be used as phones, which is a huge design flaw.
Use the button that some earbuds have. you can just plug em in (if ur phone still has a jack.....) and let an app take photos when the button is pressed. That way you don't have to tape a coin to your phone :)
Yess! I am looking forward to adding this upgrade to my ender 3 pro, as I didn't want to have to do all the upgrades required for octoprint. Thanks! and I'll let you know when I've finished it. Plus I've subbed :)
Hiya Isaac. I managed to finish the layer lapse upgrade for my Ender 3 Po, and I'm really pleased with how its turned out, so big thanks for the simple tutorial. I've just got a few things to note: 1) The camera app you suggested works fine for me except for the fact that it takes wayy to long to actually take the picture. From the first test of the layerlapse upgrade the pictures were unusable as the printing head was in the way. To solve this I had to add 2 whole seconds onto the delay time to allow just enough time to take the pictures. This however meant that the nozzle would leave some small defects on the print on the side of the limit switch. If you know of any way this could be solved please let me know (I did think putting the print on the print bed closer to the switch would help as a simple solution). 2) The layerlapse doesn't take pictures during the raft printing layers. 3) I found the electronics side of things particularly difficult, especially considering that you didn't explain the precise details such as which wire to solder to which part. Whilst the specification documents were helpful, I still found it hard, most likely since electronics isn't a strong point of mine. Thankfully my dad does some of this for his job so he was helpful, and we then figured out how to do the wiring, however I found the soldering too hard as the margins I had to solder to on the headphone PCB were too small. In the end we ended up getting a 240 ohms resistor from eBay (which was actually cheaper than the headphones) and used some old cables, and with a bit of soldering a electrical tape it worked perfectly. We did also had to figure out which wire to use from the headphone wires by using a small breadboard and multi meter, but yeah we got there in the end. Thanks again for the tutorial, and I'm really happy to have it working finally.
Hi Jamie, I do really appreciate the input. It's always hard to decide exactly what to include in my videos as I don't want hours of unnecessary useless details but I also don't want to miss out important things. So it is useful to know the extra details that would have helped you. 1) I don't know why it would be taking so long to take a picture for you. It might be worth trying out some other camera apps? If they don't work any faster, then you could try increasing the retraction distance as that should help reduce oozing. 2) I never end up printing with rafts so this is something I didn't even think about... I think this could probably be solved by adding another search and replace script for the raft layers but I haven't looked into it yet. 3) As I mentioned it's hard to decide exactly how much detail to include and my assumption was that most people wanting to do this would probably have a background in electronics. Obviously I was wrong in your case... I'm glad you managed to figure it all out though!
@@isaac879 I totally understand about you not wanting to put too much details in the vid, so thats ok. 1) Thats a good idea for solving the defects issue, thanks for the quick reply so I could try that now before my big print tomorrow. Just wondering for that, what would be considered too fast/ a reasonable speed to up it to? As I don't really understand what this number (F9000) means with regards to actual speed. 2) Its not really a big issue, as its not obvious in the final video, so don't feel like you have to figure this out if you don't want to. 3) I do know basic electronics, I just guess I got a bit stumped with this one. Thanks again.
Hi isaac879, What an awesome video tutorial. Great job putting it all together. I have a question about the start g-code. In the description you have "G0 X216 Y150 F9000 ;Move X near trigger switch and centre Y axis" but at 7:42 in the video you show "G1 X216 Y150 F9000 ;Move X near trigger switch and centre Y axis" Does it matter if it's G0 or G1? Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thank you! It shouldn't matter which one you use. G0 moves all the axis as fast as allowed so may not result in a linear movement. G1 coordinates the axis to move in a line and arrive at the target coordinates at the same time. As nothing is being printed during the movement it doesn't matter what path it takes.
i am using cura 4.6.1 and when i do this then in the print, after taking the photo of the layer, it starts extruding before reaching the place where it left of in the print.This causes a line of string from the photo taking place(x=212) to the actual print.Pls help
Great Video. I love to do it. I understand most of the begin...until the Gcode thing, I was lost there. Where can I find more about the Gcode change, is that different from different machine model? Thanks
Thank you! I believe the G-Code should be the same for most printers except the position of the switch on the x axis. That obviously depends on how far along you mount it. I honestly think one of the best ways to learn is just by trying it out seeing how changing the G-code affects the printer movements.
Great video man.anychance you have a link to the timelapse software ? And where do you find the setting in the camera app to keep the screen on . Many thanks
Thanks! I used Hitfilm for editing the timelapse together: fxhome.com/hitfilm-express In the Open Camera app to keep the screen on open the settings (the gear icon in the right corner), then select "On Screen GUI" (It should be just above photo and video settings). It is the option called "Keep display on" (Second from the bottom).
Okay, that was slick as fuck with the coin thing. this video is a couple years old and you are under rated here so I am going to check your latest video and comment again before I give any constructive criticism on your production, otherwise awesome video.
I'm using one of the limit switches from my old cr-10 mini but for some reason the limit switch doesn't register with the coin on my shutter button.... Any ideas why that might be?
Hey man! Thanks for this! I've been using it for about a week now and it's worked great but recently I've tried and when it comes back after taking the first picture it does a major layer shift. I test it without the gcode and it works fine so something is only happening when I add the gcode. Any suggestions? I dont know if it's the code or something with the printer that is causing the shift when its coming back
Your extruder is pushing into the button too far, so the x axis motor keeps running while your extruder doesnt. Try re-measuring at what point the extruder presses the button
Did you change something in the settings to detect de limit switch and take the picture? I just did what you said and the phone detect the limit in the camera app from my cellphone, but inside open camera, it doesnt work, any suggest?
I think mine worked right away but there is also a setting for it. If you open the Open Camera app go into settings -> More camera controls -> Volume keys, then make sure Take photo is selected.
I got everything to work here except for the retraction right before moving to hit the switch. Every time it get's to that point it retracts WAY to much filament, and by the 2nd layer it spits it out all together. No matter what value I put in it always sends out the same amount, even if I set the value to 0. The only way I got it to stop was removing the code line all together, but that means I get some buildup on the side of my print. Any ideas?
Hey Isaac, fantastic video because even though I’m using octoprint you have identified my main problem. It is that whenever the hot end moves away for the pic I’m getting oozing. That’s my only problem. I see your code addresses this but I’m wondering could you just trim it down in the reply to this for me to just what’s needed to retract? I’m starting a time lapse channel and I’ll give you a shout out if this works. Thanks brother!
I'd like to try this method out as well. Can someone explain how the wiring needs to be done. I saw the circuit diagram, but couldn't make out anything :(
There is a tutorial on google somewhere that allows you to do the same thing without any wirings. It uses an iPhone app called Network Camera Snapshot. I would post the link but it would get taken down by youtube. But yea it's out there.
At first, everything was okay with the first Gcode ;MESH:NONMESH, but now it's very slow when it's getting back to print after taking the picture, how can I fix that, please, and thank you so much for the Beautifull work
Hello, after the print, my print head just smash into the switch, then smash to the left switch, would you help me figure what's up? my End Code. G91 ;Relative positioning G1 E-3 F2700 ;Retract a bit G1 E-3 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more G90 ;Absolute positionning G91 ;relative positioning G1 E-6.5 F3000 ;Retract a bit G90 ;Absolute positioning G0 X193 Y215 F9000 ;Move X near trigger switch and centre Y axis G1 X196 F9000 ;Press switch G4 P10 ;delay for 10ms G1 X216 F9000 ;release switch G4 P800 ;delay for 800ms for the picture to be taken G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
if i remember correctly, most of the 2.5mm triggers tell the camera to shoot when shorted between tip and ground. SO, you can make up a jack where those contacts are across the switch and when the switch closes -- boom-- desired short.
how do i change what the volume buttons on the earphones do on android. I tried to use apple earphones on my android so that i could charge while taking the pictures. When i try to use the volume buttons on the earphones connected to my phone, nothing happens. How do i make it so that if i press the volume button, it takes the photo?
You should be able to use basically any momentary switch as long as you can find a way to mount it. I chose to use a limit switch because they are relatively cheap, have mounting holes and are precise.
I used these ones but it should work with any. www.banggood.com/10Pcs-Micro-Limit-Switch-Roller-Lever-5A-125V-Open-Close-Switch-p-945733.html?cur_warehouse=CN
i have a creality ender 3 pro and used the gcode exactly except switching the x axis. After taking the picture when it returns to the print it no longer moves up the z axis. it continues to print at the initial layer over and over anyone else run into this issue?
HI bro i tried as you said in this video but im having a problem when the head hits the limit switch it stops there and starts extruding fillament what am i doing wrong can you help me sort things for me this the g code i use for layer change G91 G1 E-6.5 F3000 G90 G0 X205 Y160 F9000 G1 X216 F9000 G4 P8 G1 X206 F9000 G4 P500 am i doing somthing wrong🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
What kind of camera do you have and is that the correct to trigger the shutter for it? Here is a great site which shows you how to trigger a variety of popular cameras www.doc-diy.net/photo/remote_pinout/
They are call a "limit switch" and most electronics retailers will have them. Ebay and Amazon too: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-Limit-Switch-Roller-type-250V-5A-N-O-N-C-for-V-Slot-CNC-Router-3D-Printer/184314990525?hash=item2aea078fbd%3Ag%3AWTMAAOSwMNhe1nBa&LH_BIN=1
Hello Issac, i tried to solder the headphone + button with the limit switch, but it just take photo endlessly! I tried both NC and NO with the COM, both just started to take photo without the pressing of the switch, any idea what's wrong? Thanks! Check out the vid please imgur.com/gallery/FUjhI9s
It looks like you are shorting the button contacts when you are touching the wire to them. There should be 2 contacts under the button dome, an outer ring and an inner circle (you can see here: th-cam.com/video/u6nh2hHMK0E/w-d-xo.html ). One wire must solder to the outer ring and the other to the inner without touching each other (or it will act like the button is always pressed). The other ends of the two wires need to connect to the limit switch COM and NO (Normally Open) terminals. I hope this sorts out the issue!
Hi @isaac879, I can't replace 1st script via search/replace command, neither in notepad nor in word. because it's in separate line, it's not replacing whole script. please help
![How To Create AMAZING 3D Printing Time-lapses! [OctoLapse With DSLR Camera]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qzwLGDL83Bs/mqdefault.jpg)
If I could, I would liked this video 500 times. Thanks dude.
you have one of the best tutorials out there for this. I've already bought a remote shutter release when i could have just wired one myself using a limit switch!
That's a slick way of triggering the cam... I wanted to set my cam up too, and I didn't want to use octolapse..... even more interesting is that screen hack to virtually press the button NICE!
Thanks for the post processing script ❤️😉 , I've tried a lot to get rid of this excess filament away from the model but nothing helped. Your g code works great 😍😌
I'm glad to hear it helped you!
Thanks alot, you saved me alot of money ( raspberry pi , a camera , a motherboard ) This just works fine. Thanks again 😄
Thanks Isaac! Your solution fixed my extrusion problem. Keep posting good content like this.
Issac! Genus Dude! I have been meaning to do this - I do not want to go the Raspberry Pi route yet - I just got the printer less than a month LOL I've been in the printing industry since 2015 and modding was almost always done once you've COMPLETELY exploited every aspect of the printer. Times have changed. So thank you for this!!
Thanks you it's clearly the easiest way to do it
Thanks for sharing Isaac. This worked surprisingly well with my old DSLR.
Not gonna lie, that sd card eject was smooth like butter
BRO! Very well done! I will search your channel to see if you made an updated video to this since this is 2 years old. I just got a Creality CR10S Pro V2 and I want to make time lapse videos like yours. Liked & subscribed! Thanks for making this video!!!
Nice! I can do this while I wait for my raspberry pi and the cameras to travel from China to the moon and finally to my house. I think phone looks better than most of those tiny dslr looking micro cameras sadly phones sometimes need to be used as phones, which is a huge design flaw.
Dude you gave me the idea to use my wired trigger for my canon 5diii by using a 3d printed trigger for the printer!
Use the button that some earbuds have. you can just plug em in (if ur phone still has a jack.....) and let an app take photos when the button is pressed. That way you don't have to tape a coin to your phone :)
Best tutorial I have come across so far. Thanks!
Yess! I am looking forward to adding this upgrade to my ender 3 pro, as I didn't want to have to do all the upgrades required for octoprint. Thanks! and I'll let you know when I've finished it. Plus I've subbed :)
Nice tutorial and awesome editing skills! Got a new follower, sir! Cheers!!
Great the Coin Hack is impressive 👏
thank you dude u made my day id not have dslr but I have android phone
Hiya Isaac. I managed to finish the layer lapse upgrade for my Ender 3 Po, and I'm really pleased with how its turned out, so big thanks for the simple tutorial. I've just got a few things to note:
1) The camera app you suggested works fine for me except for the fact that it takes wayy to long to actually take the picture. From the first test of the layerlapse upgrade the pictures were unusable as the printing head was in the way. To solve this I had to add 2 whole seconds onto the delay time to allow just enough time to take the pictures. This however meant that the nozzle would leave some small defects on the print on the side of the limit switch. If you know of any way this could be solved please let me know (I did think putting the print on the print bed closer to the switch would help as a simple solution).
2) The layerlapse doesn't take pictures during the raft printing layers.
3) I found the electronics side of things particularly difficult, especially considering that you didn't explain the precise details such as which wire to solder to which part. Whilst the specification documents were helpful, I still found it hard, most likely since electronics isn't a strong point of mine. Thankfully my dad does some of this for his job so he was helpful, and we then figured out how to do the wiring, however I found the soldering too hard as the margins I had to solder to on the headphone PCB were too small. In the end we ended up getting a 240 ohms resistor from eBay (which was actually cheaper than the headphones) and used some old cables, and with a bit of soldering a electrical tape it worked perfectly. We did also had to figure out which wire to use from the headphone wires by using a small breadboard and multi meter, but yeah we got there in the end.
Thanks again for the tutorial, and I'm really happy to have it working finally.
Hi Jamie, I do really appreciate the input. It's always hard to decide exactly what to include in my videos as I don't want hours of unnecessary useless details but I also don't want to miss out important things. So it is useful to know the extra details that would have helped you.
1) I don't know why it would be taking so long to take a picture for you. It might be worth trying out some other camera apps? If they don't work any faster, then you could try increasing the retraction distance as that should help reduce oozing.
2) I never end up printing with rafts so this is something I didn't even think about... I think this could probably be solved by adding another search and replace script for the raft layers but I haven't looked into it yet.
3) As I mentioned it's hard to decide exactly how much detail to include and my assumption was that most people wanting to do this would probably have a background in electronics. Obviously I was wrong in your case... I'm glad you managed to figure it all out though!
@@isaac879 I totally understand about you not wanting to put too much details in the vid, so thats ok.
1) Thats a good idea for solving the defects issue, thanks for the quick reply so I could try that now before my big print tomorrow. Just wondering for that, what would be considered too fast/ a reasonable speed to up it to? As I don't really understand what this number (F9000) means with regards to actual speed.
2) Its not really a big issue, as its not obvious in the final video, so don't feel like you have to figure this out if you don't want to.
3) I do know basic electronics, I just guess I got a bit stumped with this one.
Thanks again.
This is really well executed
This is very smart, love it.
worked best with yours. I tried others but it was not complete. thank you
Your script help me alot Thanks
really helpfull video i instantly liked and subbed keep it goin
thank you! great tutorial!
worked great, thanks for the info!
Fantastic!! - Subscribed!!
This is a great video , thanks man 😄
Hi
isaac879, What an awesome video tutorial. Great job putting it all together. I have a question about the start g-code. In the description you have "G0 X216 Y150 F9000 ;Move X near trigger switch and centre Y axis" but at 7:42 in the video you show "G1 X216 Y150 F9000 ;Move X near trigger switch and centre Y axis" Does it matter if it's G0 or G1?
Thanks and keep up the great work.
Thank you! It shouldn't matter which one you use. G0 moves all the axis as fast as allowed so may not result in a linear movement. G1 coordinates the axis to move in a line and arrive at the target coordinates at the same time. As nothing is being printed during the movement it doesn't matter what path it takes.
@@isaac879 Thank you for your swift reply. Working on it tonight, will link your video to my subscribers. Best of luck with your channel!
i am using cura 4.6.1 and when i do this then in the print, after taking the photo of the layer, it starts extruding before reaching the place where it left of in the print.This causes a line of string from the photo taking place(x=212) to the actual print.Pls help
I have this issue too. Did you find a solution for this?
Great video!
Great Video. I love to do it. I understand most of the begin...until the Gcode thing, I was lost there. Where can I find more about the Gcode change, is that different from different machine model? Thanks
Thank you! I believe the G-Code should be the same for most printers except the position of the switch on the x axis. That obviously depends on how far along you mount it. I honestly think one of the best ways to learn is just by trying it out seeing how changing the G-code affects the printer movements.
Good trick , awesome video
Tried this , but the stringing issue couldn't be solved
I will be trying the octoprint method now
It is awesome! Thank you for making such a great video.
5:02 - what a performance :D
Very clever!
Great video man.anychance you have a link to the timelapse software ? And where do you find the setting in the camera app to keep the screen on . Many thanks
Thanks! I used Hitfilm for editing the timelapse together: fxhome.com/hitfilm-express
In the Open Camera app to keep the screen on open the settings (the gear icon in the right corner), then select "On Screen GUI" (It should be just above photo and video settings). It is the option called "Keep display on" (Second from the bottom).
@@isaac879 brilliant,much appreciated
Thank you for your kind instructions!! It helps a lot. thanks million:)
Great video isaac878, thanks for the content!
Great video! thanks so much
Great work and a great video ! Thank you
Okay, that was slick as fuck with the coin thing. this video is a couple years old and you are under rated here so I am going to check your latest video and comment again before I give any constructive criticism on your production, otherwise awesome video.
Haha thanks! The coin thing was mostly there just because I thought it was kind of funny!
It is possible to use bluetooth shutter button for the phone. But it's very hard for me to understand how to edit the G-code right.
Dude, great vid and info, this helped me a lot! Got a sub and thumbs up from me:)
?
Do we need raspberry pi3 in programming for photography?
I'm using one of the limit switches from my old cr-10 mini but for some reason the limit switch doesn't register with the coin on my shutter button.... Any ideas why that might be?
Coin tip doesn't work for me, any advice?
Hey man! Thanks for this! I've been using it for about a week now and it's worked great but recently I've tried and when it comes back after taking the first picture it does a major layer shift. I test it without the gcode and it works fine so something is only happening when I add the gcode. Any suggestions? I dont know if it's the code or something with the printer that is causing the shift when its coming back
Your extruder is pushing into the button too far, so the x axis motor keeps running while your extruder doesnt. Try re-measuring at what point the extruder presses the button
Great information! Always wanted to try this, and now, thanks to you I know how!!
Did you change something in the settings to detect de limit switch and take the picture? I just did what you said and the phone detect the limit in the camera app from my cellphone, but inside open camera, it doesnt work, any suggest?
I think mine worked right away but there is also a setting for it. If you open the Open Camera app go into settings -> More camera controls -> Volume keys, then make sure Take photo is selected.
I got everything to work here except for the retraction right before moving to hit the switch. Every time it get's to that point it retracts WAY to much filament, and by the 2nd layer it spits it out all together. No matter what value I put in it always sends out the same amount, even if I set the value to 0. The only way I got it to stop was removing the code line all together, but that means I get some buildup on the side of my print. Any ideas?
How retraction do you use? Im put this command, and the axis x/y go to right top and back to print.. not go to right x axis..
Hey Isaac, fantastic video because even though I’m using octoprint you have identified my main problem. It is that whenever the hot end moves away for the pic I’m getting oozing. That’s my only problem. I see your code addresses this but I’m wondering could you just trim it down in the reply to this for me to just what’s needed to retract? I’m starting a time lapse channel and I’ll give you a shout out if this works. Thanks brother!
I'm not able to paste the replace g code I tried so much but ctrl+v dose not work on my cura why is that and please help me
Hay what are your phone settings
I'd like to try this method out as well.
Can someone explain how the wiring needs to be done. I saw the circuit diagram, but couldn't make out anything :(
There is a tutorial on google somewhere that allows you to do the same thing without any wirings. It uses an iPhone app called Network Camera Snapshot. I would post the link but it would get taken down by youtube. But yea it's out there.
At first, everything was okay with the first Gcode ;MESH:NONMESH, but now it's very slow when it's getting back to print after taking the picture, how can I fix that, please, and thank you so much for the Beautifull work
im having the same problem, have you fixed it yet and if so how did you fix it?
damn nice touch screen trick haha
I can't seem to paste in the whole replace code for the first search and replace script. Please help.
I have my hardware done as what you said but I not able to do it in software side
Amazing👍
Hello, after the print, my print head just smash into the switch, then smash to the left switch, would you help me figure what's up?
my End Code.
G91 ;Relative positioning
G1 E-3 F2700 ;Retract a bit
G1 E-3 Z0.2 F2400 ;Retract and raise Z
G1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out
G1 Z10 ;Raise Z more
G90 ;Absolute positionning
G91 ;relative positioning
G1 E-6.5 F3000 ;Retract a bit
G90 ;Absolute positioning
G0 X193 Y215 F9000 ;Move X near trigger switch and centre Y axis
G1 X196 F9000 ;Press switch
G4 P10 ;delay for 10ms
G1 X216 F9000 ;release switch
G4 P800 ;delay for 800ms for the picture to be taken
G1 X0 Y{machine_depth} ;Present print
M106 S0 ;Turn-off fan
M104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend
M140 S0 ;Turn-off bed
M84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
i get the first and last photo and thinking my serch and replace dont work ...
U r ninja!
i want to use my camera EOS 60D, but the p2 jack (2,5 mm ) didn't work. Is there a setting on camera for it?
if i remember correctly, most of the 2.5mm triggers tell the camera to shoot when shorted between tip and ground. SO, you can make up a jack where those contacts are across the switch and when the switch closes -- boom-- desired short.
tried this code didnt work for me, my printer does not go reach the end axis to press the button
not sure what i am doing wrong
Excellent video, really useful thanks @isaac879.
i dont think this works anymore for the post prosessing it will only let me put one command
In sorry to break it to you but someone created octo4a(octo for andriod) so all you needed was 2 cables
how do i change what the volume buttons on the earphones do on android. I tried to use apple earphones on my android so that i could charge while taking the pictures. When i try to use the volume buttons on the earphones connected to my phone, nothing happens. How do i make it so that if i press the volume button, it takes the photo?
Hey question please: does this work with Slic3r? (I have an ender 3)
Yes is does. I do briefly mention it at 7:20
Bro I loved your video but I'm not able to execute it in my settings please help me bro
thank you
i know this is super old but what can i use instead of a limit switch
You should be able to use basically any momentary switch as long as you can find a way to mount it. I chose to use a limit switch because they are relatively cheap, have mounting holes and are precise.
what limit switch do you use
I used these ones but it should work with any. www.banggood.com/10Pcs-Micro-Limit-Switch-Roller-Lever-5A-125V-Open-Close-Switch-p-945733.html?cur_warehouse=CN
i have a creality ender 3 pro and used the gcode exactly except switching the x axis. After taking the picture when it returns to the print it no longer moves up the z axis. it continues to print at the initial layer over and over anyone else run into this issue?
sup i tried it but the g code to fast backing to the print Search for: G0 F300
Replace with: G0 F9000
is now working on ender 3 v2 can anyone help me
❤🔥😍👍
Is there a way to do this without those switches and without soldering
You could probably do it without soldering but you would need some kind of switch.
@@isaac879 thx
HI bro i tried as you said in this video but im having a problem when the head hits the limit switch it stops there and starts extruding fillament what am i doing wrong can you help me sort things for me this the g code i use for layer change
G91 G1 E-6.5 F3000 G90 G0 X205 Y160 F9000 G1 X216 F9000 G4 P8 G1 X206 F9000 G4 P500 am i doing somthing wrong🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏
i cant get the switch to work when i wire it to my camera 2.5 mm jack, any advice?
What kind of camera do you have and is that the correct to trigger the shutter for it? Here is a great site which shows you how to trigger a variety of popular cameras www.doc-diy.net/photo/remote_pinout/
@@isaac879 I have a EOS 60D, but the p2 jack didn`t work with it. Is there a setting to take the photo?
I just want to add that a great way to do this is to take the switch and jack out of a selfie stick.
Where can I find a switch like that?
They are call a "limit switch" and most electronics retailers will have them. Ebay and Amazon too: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Micro-Limit-Switch-Roller-type-250V-5A-N-O-N-C-for-V-Slot-CNC-Router-3D-Printer/184314990525?hash=item2aea078fbd%3Ag%3AWTMAAOSwMNhe1nBa&LH_BIN=1
Extruder just went to push the switch and stays there
01:44 circuit
Hello Issac, i tried to solder the headphone + button with the limit switch, but it just take photo endlessly! I tried both NC and NO with the COM, both just started to take photo without the pressing of the switch, any idea what's wrong? Thanks! Check out the vid please imgur.com/gallery/FUjhI9s
It looks like you are shorting the button contacts when you are touching the wire to them. There should be 2 contacts under the button dome, an outer ring and an inner circle (you can see here: th-cam.com/video/u6nh2hHMK0E/w-d-xo.html ). One wire must solder to the outer ring and the other to the inner without touching each other (or it will act like the button is always pressed). The other ends of the two wires need to connect to the limit switch COM and NO (Normally Open) terminals. I hope this sorts out the issue!
I dont have a open source printer :( big sad
:(
@@isaac879 yeah
Hi @isaac879, I can't replace 1st script via search/replace command, neither in notepad nor in word. because it's in separate line, it's not replacing whole script. please help