M119 Valve Cover and Cylinder Head Front Cover Installation, Intake Manifold Disassembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 22 มิ.ย. 2021
- Installing the valve covers and cylinder head front covers. Disassembling the intake manifold to reseal. Removing and resealing fuel injectors. New intake camshaft apertures on order. When replacing the cam magnets with new style, apertures need to be replaced as well due to new internal shape.
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The cam magnets with the round vs tapered was an excellent knowledge point. Thanks !
You're welcome!
Great info on the cam magnets....
Hello Mr. FNT - Nice work on re-assembling the top end on things. A few notes and thoughts.
1) I am surprised that you used silicone sealant for the front cylinder head covers, rather than anaerobic orange MB "goo" sealant that MB specifies for the job. It is not horribly expensive. It vaguely smells like citrus and I have joked for years that it is made out of an esoteric mixture of Japanese satsuma oranges along with ground-up koala-bear claws. The concern with silicone/RTV sealant is that little "oozy" pieces can break off inside the engine clog oil passages, etc. if enough of it gets in there. The anaerobic stuff when exposed to air does not harden and thus will dissipate/dissolve except where it is bonding the pieces of metal (not exposed to air).
2) I **highly** recommnend that you "ream out" that EGR tube when you remove it to replace the two diamond-shaped gaskets where it attaches to the intake manifold halves. That tube can get clogged up with vapors and residue at the end that points down into the inside of the lower half of the intake manifold. At the very least, SOAK it in some brake or carb cleaner for an hour or so in an outdoor area to remove the blackened carbon deposits on the inside of the end of the tube and the outside.
3) Did you consider taking the halves of the intake manifold to a machine shop to have them dunked in a tank to remove all of the carbon and vapor residue in the passages? Just a thought. I did this last year at a local machine shop for about $25 and the halves came back looking like new.
4) It is an excellent idea to replace the pintle caps on the ends of the injectors when you do the injector seals. You can get pintle caps online from various sources. The replacement pintle cap "hats" tend to have a smaller hole than the originals (for the injector spray pattern), so you would need to drill them out and enlarge the holes. You can see where I did this last year, here: www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/resto-project-m119-w124-e500-engine-top-end-refresh.14483/post-205467
5) You should also consider replacing the small screens that are pressed into the tops of each of the injectors. These are also replaceable and available on the aftermarket. You can see this screen removal and install process in the pintle cap post I made from point #4 directly above.
6) Yes, the armatures on the ends of the intake cams have to be replaced, as you found in the work order., when you replace the cam adjuster magnets It is a PITA to have to do this, but at least the parts are relatively cheap. The orange MB koala-claw/satsuma anaerobic sealant "goo" should also be used for these cam adjuster magnets. Armature comparison here: www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/resto-project-m119-w124-e500-engine-top-end-refresh.14483/post-211210
7) One note that is IMPORTANT: The longer-threaded bolt for the driver's side ONLY front cylinder head cover (the one that is RIGHT BELOW the long-headed bolt on that side) MUST MUST MUST have the threads covered with sealant goo (orange koala-claw/satsuma or equivalent anaerobic) becuase this bolt's threads extend into the timing chain compartment, and if you do not seal the threads when installing/torquing this bolt, IT WILL LEAK. ONLY this one longer-threaded/length cylinder head cover bolt has to have the threads sealed -- the other shorter-threaded bolts on the covers don't protrude through the cover into the timing chain compartment. See it here: www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/resto-project-m119-w124-e500-engine-top-end-refresh.14483/post-212279
8) Torque for the cam cover bolts is 9 Nm. I try to do this in three stages, because the rubber cam cover seals settle after a while. First stage -- 9Nm upon assembly. Second stage -- again torque to 9Nm a day or two after initial torquing (let the rubber seal compress). Third stage -- torque to 9Nm again after a few heat cycles when the engine has been started and run, to make up for further valve cover gasket compression and heat/cooling cycles' affect on the rubber gaskets.
9) Only get a BOSCH or MB fuel pressure regulator. They are cheap and easily available -- I think around $35 for a Bosch unit. Easy thing to replace if you have some snap-ring pliers, and something you should just do out of hand so that you are starting with a fresh one.
Otherwise, looks great. Looks like she is coming together nicely.
1) I used silicone because that is what I am used to. You need a lot less than most people think. I have to pick up parts today and I'll check to see if they have the orange stuff for the cam magnets and order it if they do not. I was looking at the old cam magnets and thought silicone would be excessive. Especially since the total area that requires sealant was so large.
2) Yeah I'll clean out that tube before reinstallation. I took a peek inside when I had it disconnected and it looked ok but it wouldn't hurt to get it properly cleaned out.
3) I didn't think of taking the halves to a machine shop to have them cleaned. The insides of the manifold seem to just have a light coating of grime. Nothing built up. The only place I noticed any kind of build up was directly below the EGR tube opening so I will see if I can get some of that off when I have the tube out.
4) I'm going to throw it together with the old injectors and see how it works. If I have issues with any of the injectors then I'll replace them as needed. At the dealer, it's more reliable for the vehicle and guest to replace components as opposed to rebuilding them so that's what I'll do for this vehicle. The only thing I have rebuilt was a tandem pump recently and that was because the kit was available and the pump was not.
5) I will double check cost on the injectors when I pick up parts today. If I remember correctly they weren't cheap but they weren't that expensive as well. If one or or more has to come back out, I'm replacing them.
6) I have the new armatures and bolts waiting for me right now. I still need to order more parts like the EGR tube gasket as well. I also need to see if the EGR valve is available because it's out of stock on FCP Euro. Hopefully my price is better than their price.
7) I will remove the top long bolts and apply sealant to them (not silicone haha). Good looking out on that one.
8) 9Nm sounds about right. When I replace valve cover gaskets or reseal valve covers at work I don't have the time to recheck the torque that many different times because often times we have the guest waiting for their vehicle. I snug it and send it. I drive the vehicle and recheck for leaks after but that's about it. I did torque these to 9Nm. I will recheck the torque before starting it.
9) I was looking at the Bosch fuel pressure regulator on FCP Euro and was thinking about ordering it because it's only $35. I want to check what my price is here at work before ordering it though. Since it's relatively inexpensive, I will probably end up replacing it anyway as a preventative measure.
As always, thank you for your input. You've been a big help. You've given me tips I would have not have found or known otherwise.
@@FriendlyMBTech I have really NEVER seen any issue with the injectors themselves. It's mainly the seals that go, with age/heat/use, and the pintle caps ("hats") on the ends of them tend to crack/crumble as yours did when you tried to move that new o-ring over it. Easy to just replace the pintle caps at the same time as the o-rings. The screens are probably not an issue, but they are removable and while you're in there.....it's mere incremental work to remove/replace the screens and also the pintle caps when doing the o-rings. Injectors themselves almost NEVER go bad.
I rebuilt all of my injectors with the parts mentioned and all have been just fine in the 2,000 miles I've driven my car since doing that job last year.
The FCP Yurro price is likely better for the BOSCH FPR than you can get the MB one through your dealership sources, or perhaps a wash. But the BOSCH aftermarket unit is fine, it's identical to the MB unit.
In addition to the one bolt on the driver's side front timing cover that requires orange anaerobic sealant, I believe that all three of the smog pump bolts also require orange anaerobic sealant when being replaced due to going through the front timing cover, so be aware of this as well. It is VERY VERY common for mechanics not to know that these bolts require sealant, and then this leads quite quickly to oil leaks. And as far as I can remember, this info is either not in the work instructions, or not readily apparent if it is noted, so is often overlooked. Photo is here: www.w124performance.com/images/M119/smog_pump_bracket.jpg
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@8:54 Is there a special tool/process for installing that seal on the cover?
Thanks for all these awesome videos!
Not that I used. I just used a socket and tapped it in slightly offset of the wear mark on the cam. I am unable to look up to see if there is a factory tool. MB is in the middle of changing work instruction programs do the older instructions haven't been loaded yet.
@@FriendlyMBTech thank you! I have an old 500e that sat for a while and watching your m119 vids is helping me build up the courage to remove the engine and get all these done once and for good!
@@cargen12 you're very welcome! Feel free to ask any questions you may have.
The vale cores hás 1 long bolt each i remove and no remember where the big bolts is ? do you have that information?