M119 Timing Cover Installation
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 มี.ค. 2021
- Installing the timing cover on the M119 and installing the link in the timing chain using the factory tool. The link installation I recorded in January. Also left in a blooper and some mistakes that I had to correct.
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Hello Mr. FNT,
Great to see all the gen-u-whine MB parts you've gotten for this build. Probably the most critical and one of the more expensive parts you got was the MB timing chain tensioner ... I know that is a spendy sucker. So, awesome to see the investment in the best parts for the job.
One note, on the ignition caps and rotors. The current factory MB distributor caps are made by Beru, and the factory rotors are made by Doduco. They are not made by Bosch; and the current blue/white box Bosch parts like you got, are demonstrably inferior in quality to both the factory parts, and the Beru/Doduco branded parts that you can find on the aftermarket. They are harder to find than they used to be, but I would highly recommend trying to go with Beru+Doduco (or the MB equivalents) for these critical parts.
Also, it is vitally important when you re-assemble the cylinder heads, that you replace the round plastic insulator caps that fit into the ends of the heads behind the cap/rotor assembly. These insulator caps tend to accumulate moisture/oil mist and are a very common problem for mis-fires and running problems. They are very very often overlooked as a cause of ignition and running problems. These insulator caps are available from MB, or ONLY as a Bosch branded part on the aftermarket. Although Bosch quality is not nearly what it used to be, for these insulator caps the Bosch part is acceptable.
Extensive discussion on the Bosch vs. Beru+Doduco caps/rotors on the 500Eboard, and probably 20 different threads on ignition/running issues caused by non-replaced ignition insulator caps.
Here's a good discussion or two on the caps and rotors.
www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/distributor-and-rotor-problem.14113
www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/beru-rotors-now-made-in-italy-no-longer-reboxed-oe.15389/
www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/m119-ignition-issues-when-warm.15509/
www.500eboard.co/forums/threads/normal-for-distributor-caps.15064/
Good work and looking forward to seeing the cylinder head work.
Hoping you have the correct press for the front crankshaft seal. It is important to off-set the front crank seal by a couple of mm from the original seal's depth.
Some good photos on this: www.w124performance.com/images/M119/crank_seal/
Big Up Your Selfe. .. I Found All Your Videos About This Legendary M119 Engine Useful For My E500 Project ... I Give Thinks ,Keep It On.
Thank you!
Excellent instructions...
Great video. Thank you.
You're very welcome!
@@FriendlyMBTech I bought an 82 380sl and the chain had snapped 8 years ago. Typical. With no experience, I'm going to see what I could do. Can't make it any worse. 😀
Good Instructions for me . Thank you.....
You're welcome!
Love all these videos neighbor! Question for you. In this video (25:20) you said you had to remove the pan in order to install the front cover. That said, would you recommend I install the rear cover before the pan as well? I ask because in another video you did here you mentioned the manual said sealant is supposed to be applied in the bottom corners of the pan. I’m trying to understand the proper procedure and sealing of the pan to cover plates. It seams both covers have alignment pins which make me believe covers first & then pan, but how do you seal it according to the manual? I hope I’m making sense. I have the 560SL if you remember.
If you can install them both with the upper pan off, that would be the way to go. The rear cover is possible to get on with the upper pan on. The only way I was able to get the front cover on was with the upper pan off due to the oil pump chain guide.
Good work!!!!!
Thank you!
Great video, just 1 question for you does anything go in the threaded hole l/h block as you’re looking at it.
Can you email me with a picture of the hole you're referring to? I have an idea of which one but I want to be sure.
You are master of mercedes
This is helping me immensely right now as I am just starting the assembly stage of my 400e engine, had the same timing chain guide failure. Ive done it so far with the engine in car but I fear i will have to take the engine out now because the upper pan is almost impossible to remove with the engine still in the car, and while i managed to get the timing cover off with upper pan on, its not going to go well when going back on without disturbing the sealant... gah😒
I thought I could squeeze it in there also but either the oil pump guide was in the way, the oil pump chain was in the way, or the upper oil pan gasket was in the way. I ended up scraping the sealant off and reapplying it after I got the upper oil pan back off.
I am also doing this in car and would like some idea of the necessary clearance required to remove and install the timing cover with the limitation of the heads being on and upper pan being loosened yet not removed... is it possible to do this without separating the engine from transmission for loosening the rear most upper pan bolts? Or is it simply a matter of manipulating the oil chain rail while removing and installing the cover? I suppose if it comes out it will go back in. Gonna be interesting soon once I have the lower pan off and oil pump removed. Hope it works!
@@joewestfall2952 I think you'll run into additional issues if you don't completely unbolt the upper pan. With the two rear bolts in, you won't be able to lower the upper pan far enough to make clearance. Also, I'd be willing to bet the upper pan leaks if you don't replace the gasket. Or the gasket sticks to the block and pan and you end up having to remove it anyway.
@@FriendlyMBTech well, I spent the money for engine stand and hoist and time to remove the engine and transmission. This was not fun. But now I have it all in front of me easily accessible. I know this is the best way forward. That lower oil pan oil pump chain guide is some sort of rubix cube. I’m going to practice fitting the front cover until I can do it quickly before opening silicone. Thanks so much for these videos. Btw I damaged some of the transmission wiring pulling the engine. Is there a transmission harness part number for the 94 E420?
@@joewestfall2952 I did the front cover with the upper oil pan off. It was super sketchy but the easiest way. I don't see a separate part number for the transmission. If I remember correctly, any electrical connector is part of one of the engine harnesses. If it's the lower, that is no longer available. I am planning on doing a rebuild video of mine. If it's a part of the upper harness there might be one left in the country. When I bought mine, there were two. Retail is probably around $600.
The M113 has 5 plastic timing chain guides but it seems like I never hear about them self-combusting inside the engine. Is it not a problem on the M113? The timing chain issue scares me away from M119 TBH.
90%+ of the time I buy cars with less than 30K miles but from 8 to 15 years old. To me that's a sweet spot of heavily depreciated but not enough mileage for poor maintenance to have ruined anything as long as they changed the oil a few times. Also not enough time has passed for the car's rubber bits to turn to mush.
They've used plastic guides on every engine since also. Maybe plastic technology has improved since the M119 and it isn't as much of an issue any more. In my experience, even on newer engines like the M260, the plastic guides can still be very brittle.
For some reason I was told to use the orange mercedes sealant for the timing cover install instead of the black sealant. I don't know where I heard this at this point but I noticed you used black silicone to seal. Was I incorrect in using the orange MB sealant? I'm still at a point where I can redo what I did.
Work instructions step 35 state, "Clean sealing surfaces and coat sealing surface of timing case cover with sealant 002 989 47 20 which I believe is the orange stuff. You should be good. I just made the choice to use the black mercedes silicone.
Hello, do you have video how to reassemble camshaft sprocket? I re install the sprocket from the camshaft and I have hard time reinstall it back to the camshaft. Mercedes 500sel 1992 m119
I'm sorry it took a bit for me to reply. This thread might help: www.benzworld.org/threads/diy-m119-engine-top-end-work-due-to-timing-chain-stretch.1540605/
Top Meister, 👍👍👍😎👌❤️
I am working to dry fit the timing cover and as you said it is a very difficult task to orient the oil pump chain and guard while fitting the “banana” with heads on. I also had the same engine stand issue as two of the supports do require the upper pan. This made me question the necessity of uprighting the engine to more easily orient the timing cover, oil chain, etc. Actually not sure how to flip it right side up now safely. What did you do to make this part go smoothly? It’s very difficult even with the upper pan off.
I had the heads off when I did it, which made flipping it over easier. With the heads off everything pretty much goes straight on. When I had to flip my old engine back over I had to use the cherry picker to help turn it right-way up since I was by myself.
Hello again friendly , i think it would be great if you could link the tools you used to do that project like: the 18”straight edge, the tool for the chain and more …im thinking on taking my engine out to do the same thing i got 195 555 miles on mine and i need to replace that front seal on the transmission and rear main seal on the engine. Thank you for taking the time to share your work with us…
@@tinasissi unfortunately some of the tools aren't sold online. The straight edge is which is www.mactools.com/products/se18a
The chain tool is a factory Mercedes tool that you'd have to call your local dealership for that exact tool. And the dies to press the chain links are sold individually. A comparable tool that might work would be www.amazon.com/GOGOLO-Installer-Assembly-Mercedes-Disassembler/dp/B07QMQMYWF/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=mercedes+timing+chain+tool&qid=1629354433&sr=8-4
Hope this helps.
@@FriendlyMBTech ok thank you so much
hello,with geert. ihave a question about the timingchain. Is it possible to change the chain and all the guides without taking off the head cilinders? Ihave a broken guide on the top but at 385000km i want to renew all the chain guides. Also thanks for the good explication and the part numbers that you are changing. Greatings from Belgium.
Hello to you too. It's possible to change most of the timing chain guide rails without taking the heads off and timing cover off. There are two rails that are held on by the front timing cover though. They are held on by pins that are not removable unless you take the whole timing cover off. Even though it is possible to take the timing cover off without taking the cylinder heads, it is a lot easier if you take them off as well as taking off the upper oil pan. The timing chain can be replaced with only taking the cylinder head covers off. Since the new timing chain comes unlinked, you have to cut a link on the old one and attach the new chain to the old chain and feed the new chain through by rotating the engine and keeping tension on the new chain.
One of the rails I am talking about is the one I am holding in the thumbnail of this video.
@@FriendlyMBTech very much thanks for the explication. I understand what you mean with the chain and the pins. For the pins ,from the rails , i think its the same like on m103 6 cylinder block, we put in a 6mm bolt and with bigger nuts oround we pul the pin out .
@@SG901 That is how you can get the pins out from the cylinder head. The long timing chain rail that the tensioner presses on is held in by a pin on the inside of the timing cover. That pin is not removable from the outside. You can see the pin at about the 45 second mark when I mock up the rail.
Can I have that timing chain, since you didn’t reuse it
I'm not 100% sure where the timing chain is right now...
Hello FNT, is this the sealant part number that you used? A001989892010
The black sealant is A 003 989 20 10