I Give Thanks To You ... Because I Started To Assemble My M119 5.5 ... I Watched All Your Video And Your Passion How To Give All What You Have Got In Your Videos To Be Useful To Other Members In Channel ... And I Find It Beyond My Expectation And Very Very Useful To Me ... Again Keep On ...,,,, respect
I have done this several times engine in the car and the worst part about it is those rear power steering pump bolts, then the banana guide lower pivot pin. Anyway I feel the issue with the passenger side intake cam being off was it was installed with the cam already in advanced position. Either way as we see from other peoples comments its really important to spin the motor over several times and recheck. Good work and good luck !
I've searched and searched, only watching this made my day. Man, God bless you. Instant sub I've done. I wish your video goes far. Thanks for this Beautiful Teaching 1 by 1❤❤❤❤❤
Hi Mr. FNT -- nice work. One suggestion -- it helps for visibility when timing things to take your partner's fingernail polish (red or orange is best) and coat that timing pointer on the water pump with a coat of polish. Just a little tip. Otherwise everything looks good and looks like it is coming together. You didn't disassemble the intake cam adjusters -- good thing! Re-assembly requires a $$$ MB special tool, which I had to buy last year. Can be done without the tool, but you are fighting the spring pressure on the adjuster and it is a PITA. And glad to see you used a factory MB chain tensioner instead of an aftermarket unit. Chain tensioner = critical part that should NEVER be skimped on. Look forward to seeing that power steering/tandem pump (does your car have SLS?) and bracket go back on the driver's side now that the chain rails are re-installed !!
I did check movement of the edjusters and they seem to move smoothly. This only has the standard power steering pump. Although the 500E I have at work right now has SLS. As it were, I'm actually finding your write up from 2013 on rebuilding it more useful than anything MB has ever put out. I would love to do a video on it but I'm not allowed to do any on anything work related.
@@FriendlyMBTech Yes, all E500Es made worldwide had SLS. A few 400E420s had it, but it's pretty rare on US cars. Same with ASR -- all E500Es had it, but only a percentage of 400E420s (perhaps 30-40%?). The Vickers tandem pumps are a bit more of a PITA because of that one circlip part, if I remember correctly, but fortunately my car didn't have the Vickers pump. The problem with re-assembling the cam adjusters is mainly not just the spring tension, but you have to ROTATE the sprocket to get it in place while holding things against the spring tension, an operation that is much easier said than done. I tried many dozens of times before giving up, and just getting the factory tool. Completed it in like 3 minutes with the factory tool. Last year for my COVID project I cheaped out and installed a GRAF water pump instead of getting a factory unit, which I should have done. ALSO, when reassembling things up front, the MB factory fan clutch (Horton/Sachs is the OEM) is now NLA as of last year, so if replacing the fan clutch, you have to go with the aftermarket ACM clutch, which works well, but activates sooner and de-activates later than the factory units did. Nothing like the fan clutch continuign to roar when the engine is spinning at 6,000 RPM !!!
@@gerryvanzandt7894 The 500E I'm working on has the Luk tandem pump which I got the parts kits for that brand when I ordered it. I don't know off the top of my head which aftermarket brand fan clutch I bought. It's one of the few aftermarket parts I'm using. Nothing internal to the engine though. I fully expect it to sound like a semi fan though.
@@FriendlyMBTech Just note, too, that the center bolt for the aftermarket fan clutch will likely need to be different (shorter) than the factory bolt, becuase the aftermarket clutches are skinnier than the factory clutch. Easily obtainable bolt at your local hardware store in the right pitch, length, etc. It's all on my forum in the search. ACM clutches, though Chinese-made, are acceptable as long as you are good with the prolonged roaring. It's really a shame that MB stopped making the clutches, though at $800+ a pop they were not cheap. I got one back in 2016 from MB and used that on my own COVID project rebuild.
So you're referring to the dowel that's in the bottom of the cam bearing cap? That does not look like it comes separately from the bearing cap. The parts guide does not show a separate part for that. I checked the passenger side of my old engine last night and the part numbers on those bearing caps don't match yours. Is the one you're missing on the driver's side (US)? I would assume they're all the same from 119 to 119.
@@FriendlyMBTech I noticed in your video @ 16:13 the exhaust cam cap location beside the 4th lifter from the front is missing one of the dowel sleeves I assume stayed in the cap when you removed it. Some of mine came out with the caps but the one I'm referring to wasn't in the head or cap and is a cap on passenger side the one with the guide pin hole for timing with 4 bolts for the intake cam.
I have a M119 engine. I get a code for ignition system fault that will not clear. I have new wires, caps/rotors, fuel pump and filter and some other things Im probably forgetting. Car runs but has nowhere near the power it should. When I pull some spark plugs they are soaked with fuel. I switched out the EZL and it ran the same. From my reasearch and limited knowledge I think the timing jumped or the LH module is dumping fuel. Gas milage is like pouring gas on the ground. When I use a stethascope to listen to the fuel injectors half are working way more then the other half (but its not all on one side its split). If you're looking at the engine from the front the injectors that go to the right side cap and rotor are doing much more then the left side cap and rotor which makes no sense to me. I really hope I dont have to put new guides in or something but I need to fiigure this out.
@Maybe1Someday you could check all the vacuum hoses and lines and make sure they aren't cracked or too soft. There are some vacuum elbows on the intake manifold that can deteriorate over time. Two of them are towards the rear of the engine. Any vacuum leaks or intake leaks after the mass air flow sensor will cause the oxygen sensor to see the extra oxygen and cause the computer to think the engine is running lean. When that happens it will attempt to correct the lean situation by increasing fuel delivery.
Hey ! Thank your very much! helped me so much! Im working on my m119 from my W210 and without you i would be lost Not all Heros wear Capes ! Greetings from Germany :D
thank you for youre videos, great work 👍 I'm doing a chain,railguide and tensioner change on my mercedes 500sl from 1990 with the m119 engine. When I try to get the exhaust camshaft on place it is very hard to get it there, it presses down 2lifters.. I have replaced all the lifters to new Ina ones. Do I have to do something eith the new lifters before installing them, other than lube them up? Are they so "hard" because they are new?
I would use assembly lube and install them. When I installed mine, I checked each one to see if the center was moving free. I don't have any experience with new one so I couldn't tell you how a new one feels. I'd assume they shouldn't be solid.
I believe my m119 timing chain jumped.I have the balancer set at 45 and notice the pin holes don't line up. The chain seems tight, tensioners not damaged and just don't understand how this could happen.I'm just digging into this today.
Good evening, I'm in the process of rebuilding my 119.960 with major reference to your video's and would like to thank you for all you share. I have approximately 100 parts ordered for the rebuild- Gaskets, seals, some sensors and 32 new lifters. In regards to that I'm hoping you might be able to help me as I noticed I've lost one of my bearing cap dowel sleeves which according to my notes were no longer used to keep caps fixed in position since 1993. I can't find replacement dowel sleeves for cam caps or a part number for them anywhere and was wondering if you knew of a part number for these or availability. I've searched high and low for it really beating myself up over it any suggestions or help you can share is greatly appreciated. Thank you
Very helpful video man! I'm currently in the process of replacing my upper 4 chain guides, tensioner and timing chain. For rolling in the new chain, do you think it would be easier to take all the cams out, roll in the new chain just on the crank, set crank to 45° btdc and then install cams as you did, or should I roll in the new chain with all cams installed? (I'm scared that if I chose the last method and one of the cams jumps during roll in, I might bend a valve or two...)
If you're replacing the guides that I did in this video then you'll need to take the cams out anyway. Then you can roll in the new chain with the cams out. After you get the new chain in then do the installation like this with the crankshaft at 45 degrees btdc cylinder 1. As long as all the pin holes line up with the crankshaft there, you're good. Crank the engine over slowly by hand once it's back together to double check timing. I crank it over 4 times because that's one complete combustion cycle. After 4 rotations the pin holes should line up again with the crankshaft at 45 degrees btdc.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thanks for replying, the intake cams are out at the moment, so taking the exhaust ones out is easy right now. Will go with the method you described, fingers crossed all goes well! 😁
@@sahandhajshekoleslami3952 good luck. Just remember that after all the cams are back in you'll want all the slack in the chain to be on the tensioner side between the passenger exhaust cam and the crankshaft. Then once all the cams are lined up and pinned, the tensioner will go in smoothly and take up that slack.
SO i set all the cams in and chained and pinned at 45. i then put tensioner on and unpin and spin engine. the first time it hits 45 again it isnt lined up at all like way. the second spin when it hits 45 it lines up. (im a rookie here) so is this correct the pins should only line up every other crank over on 45?
Hey FNT, I know I'm late to the party but I figured I'd ask my piece. I've got a '95 M119 and just today the head gasket(s) blew out. For context, the car sat for 7-ish months until I finally fixed the misfire/ no spark (EZL, go figure). Upon startup, I smell coolant. Pop the oil cap, and I've got light roast coffee. Anyways, after replacing the head gaskets, do I need to worry about timing the crankshaft? The car is in perfect time as it is, and I imagine the only timing I'd need to do would be for the camshafts correct? I've turned a wrench or two before, so I'm not scared of getting dirty. I've never timed an engine before, although I do want to learn. Great video by the way! I feel somewhat better after watching you explain in detail about the specs and procedures.
Hello and thank you for reaching out! Correct, if the crankshaft never moved, you should be ok. I would still verify the crankshaft position by having the front cover and pulley set on, but the crankshaft shouldn't have moved.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thank you! I had figured as much. The unfortunate thing is that I won't be able to do it with the engine out, as I don't own a hoist nor an engine stand. But I've seen people who have done it with the motor still in the car, albeit with considerably more effort. I appreciate your video series, as it's helping me understand my engine more. You definitely make it look easy haha.
@@FriendlyMBTechthank you! I actually did have one more question, but I’m not sure how to word it. Upon inspecting the MB service manual, I’m confused as to if you rotate the crank after doing the driver side camshafts. As in, once TDC is found for Cyl. 1, and both intake & exhaust cams are installed, do you repeat the process for the first cylinder on the driver’s side? I guess it would be cylinder 5 but I’m unsure of the cylinder numbers. I personally dont think that is correct, but the MB manual’s pictures seem to show that. Another possibility is that I’m overthinking this, and the only cylinder that needs to be TDC for timing purposes is cylinder 1 😂 thanks in advance, I’m still trying to wrap my head around this
@@avlvelo2688 do not rotate the crankshaft until all four cams are in and torqued properly. Everything is timed to that one position of the crankshaft.
Hey FNT, can you describe how you are making adjustments to the cams by one tooth at a time? I am having issues getting the holes to match back up once I turn the engine over. 😑
@@FriendlyMBTech four times. When I set the engine to 45 degrees I am able to get the pins in the cams but it is a tight fit on two of them. Then I install the tensioner, remove the pins and turn it over four times. But then the holes don't match. Some do, others are off by a bit.
@JoeZ19 if they aren't off by a tooth then I wouldn't worry about it. The cam adjusters will make up the difference. The only way to make adjustments one tooth at a time is to remove the cams up to the camshaft you want to make an adjustment to and move that one by one tooth. It took me several attempts to get it correct in the end.
@@FriendlyMBTech ok I'll take another stab at it today and see how close I can get. It'll be my third attempt now. Hoping to get it right this time. Did slack on the chain play a factor? I know you mentioned pulling it all to the right side.
They all require quite a bit of taking things apart. The small upper guides need the valve covers removed and two of those at least need cam gears removed. The lower larger ones need the timing cover removed.
When you had to set the timing on the Passenger intake cam because it was off a tooth. Did you just loosen the tensioner and then reset the cam? Also great video!
I took the tensioner completely out when I had to move the cam a tooth. With the tensioner in but loosened as much as possible, it was still putting pressure on the chain.
Hello Friendly Neighbor, Man, you are such a precious resource and wise advisor. Many, many thanks for your time and effort. I'll change the timing chain and chain tensioner on my 500e when I'll go back to France next year. Can you give me your opinion on Febi Bilstein chains compare to MB original parts? Thanks in advance, very best regards, Take care, From Vietnam, Richard
Thank you! I don't have any experience with the Febi Bilstein timing chain and my opinion is admittedly skewed toward factory parts. Also, my cost on the parts is substantially lower than retail due to working at a dealership. What I can tell you about the factory chain was that even after 100k miles, I don't think it really **needed** to be replaced. When I lined up the old chain and the new chain, they looked exactly the same length. I just replaced it for peace of mind. I replaced everything else I took apart. I didn't want the timing chain to be the only thing not replaced. Going off Google, the part number I used A 002 997 84 94 is about $470 retail. The other brand on FCPEURO.COM is about $125 which is almost 4 times the cost. I can see why that would be appealing. I've never used that brand either or heard anything about it. These other brands might very well be repackaged factory parts. Who knows. Also, fcpeuro.com does have a lifetime warranty on everything they sell I believe. I don't think that covers the parts that a broken timing chain could damage though. Because I work at a dealership, and my cost was more affordable, I stuck with 100% factory parts inside the engine.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thank you for the kind answer, I get your point, it make sense. Kind of you also to quote the right part nbr, I'll check with my local dealership. I love your postings!!! 👍👍👍
@@rcdrum29 you're welcome. Have them double check the part number also. That was just the one I needed. I don't know if there is a year difference. There probably isn't. When I googled that part number, it came up for a 1997 E420 so it's probably the same part for every year.
I have been following this project for several months and am completing an M119 for an E420. I am concerned about the accuracy of my timing now as I was unable to perfectly nail the four pins with the crank at 45 BTDC. Looking at the chain guides do you think it is possible for the chain to ride up on the outer edge of the two guides between the crank and driver’s side exhaust cam sprocket? I was wondering if that is where the slack has gone. I was not able to perfectly pin that first cam at 45….Is there enough movement for those guides to be coaxed over to allow the chain to center up between the two edges? I am looking for reasons the marks aren’t matching up….it’s off by about four degrees about 49 BTDC. Will this keep the engine from running?
I'd say the chain riding on one edge of a chain guide is definitely a possibility. I had to line up the chain with the guides very carefully because of that. Also, if the holes on the back of the cam sprockets don't line up with the cam bearing caps then something is definitely off. If the crankshaft is off by 4 degrees when the cams are pinned then it sounds like the crankshaft is off by a tooth. It took me several tries to get things lined up properly before I was able to torque everything down. I had gotten the 4th camshaft in and found out I was off a tooth all the way back on the first or second cam and had to take things back apart. You will want the camshafts pinned when installing the tensioner because the tensioner will pull the cams and crankshaft out of time. That is why it's super important to have all the timing chain slack between the passenger side exhaust camshaft and the crankshaft. Four degrees of timing shouldn't keep the car from running but at the very least you might have a check engine light.
@@FriendlyMBTech I just realized my old harmonic balancer markings are almost impossible to see. I had been referencing the large center mark but I looked at a new balancer and see that zero is actually 25 deg after that mark. Much adieu about nothing. But I do need to reset the timing now…
@@joewestfall2952 yeah that'll do it. Were the timing marks not raised like in the video? I've seen some on other engines where they are laser printed on and next to impossible to see.
@@FriendlyMBTech The harmonic balancer edges are covered in small surface scratches from 27 years of use. The raised markings are faint and pretty difficult to see. I moved all the cams one tooth and now it pins at about 39 deg. If I only pin the one passenger exhaust cam and pull the slack out it indicates about 42 deg. This is with all new chain guides. I’m gonna call this good and try and get it to start.
So I want you opinion here. I have 100% new chain and tensioners including those under the timing cover. With this I can pin every cam at 49 or 39 BTDC by changing the cams one tooth. Now if I go over to the passenger side only pinning that exhaust cam due to the new chain I get more like 52 or 42 BTDC depending again on the cam tooth. I’m just unable to nail 45 perfectly. The engine had 230,000 so sprockets may be worn, etc. I decided after putting the engine back in to look at the timing again (49 just seemed out of bounds yet 39 seemed odd also) with all the cams pinned. I used a camera and confirmed the chain is not riding up on the guides anywhere.
Great video series! Super helpful as I am tearing into my M119 out of my SL500 due to coolant mixing into the oil from somewhere. Quick question: where did you get the dowels that you used to pin down the cams? Are they available online? Thanks.
@@FriendlyMBTech thanks I really appreciate that. Do you have any tips on coolant mixing with the oil on the M119 engine? I am almost down to the bare block so I will be checking the head gasket for sure but I feel like it is not going to be that simple. 😅 So I'm asking around to see where else I can check as I disassemble the engine.
@@joez1966 that's the problem I was having. The coolant was disappearing and the reservoir smelled like exhaust. So I just got a different engine that the company said had good compression. I tore the "new" engine apart because I kept finding things that needed to be replaced. It got down to the block also.
@@FriendlyMBTech nice. I'm considering buying a new engine also but I wanted to break the current engine down first to see if it can be saved. Is there a reason you didn't go into the block? I have been staring at my block for 2 days now trying to decide. I noticed in the tech docs that there are some self locking bolts that can only be used once. Seems complex in there.
@@joez1966 I'm sorry I forgot the part number for you. It's 119 589 00 15 00. There are 4 of them. I didn't go into the block because our resident old guy in the shop told me the 119 doesn't like being over heated. Especially the open deck block versions. So I went ahead and got a replacement engine. Maybe my engine can be rebuilt. I don't know. You can have it if you want. Where are you located?
excuse me you will have the torque of the bench, connecting rods and head "butt" of that engine the m119, and you will also have the marks of the timing chain the teeth that are between each mark. porfavor
Si , prefiero español, ocupo saber a cuánto se torquean la bancada del cigüeñal , el torque de bielas , el torque de la cabeza y por último ocuparía saber el número de eslabones que hay en las marcas de la cadena para ponerlo a tiempo? Te lo agradezco
@@alexdisainer Hello and I am sorry for the late reply. 1. There are several torques depending on which connecting rod bolt design you have. If you have part# 116 038 05 71 the torque is 55Nm first step. Second step is torque again at 45Nm and then a 90 degree turn. If you have cylinder head bolt part number 102 038 02 71 the torque is 45Nm first step. Second step is 40Nm and a 90 degree turn. If you have part number 111 038 00 71 the torque is 40Nm first step. Second step is 30Nm and a 90 degree turn.
@@alexdisainer El par del cigüeñal es... Los pernos dentro del cárter están apretados a 30 Nm. Las tuercas M10X1 están apretadas a 50 Nm. Los pernos laterales M10X40 están apretados a 50 Nm.
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I Give Thanks To You ... Because I Started To Assemble My M119 5.5 ... I Watched All Your Video And Your Passion How To Give All What You Have Got In Your Videos To Be Useful To Other Members In Channel ... And I Find It Beyond My Expectation And Very Very Useful To Me ... Again Keep On ...,,,, respect
Thank you very much sir!
All Thanks To You Sir. ...,,,, respect, cheers
I have done this several times engine in the car and the worst part about it is those rear power steering pump bolts, then the banana guide lower pivot pin. Anyway I feel the issue with the passenger side intake cam being off was it was installed with the cam already in advanced position. Either way as we see from other peoples comments its really important to spin the motor over several times and recheck. Good work and good luck !
He did exactly what he was warning against and drop the chain back one tooth of the exhaust sprocket
I've searched and searched, only watching this made my day. Man, God bless you. Instant sub I've done. I wish your video goes far. Thanks for this Beautiful Teaching 1 by 1❤❤❤❤❤
You're very welcome!
Hi Mr. FNT -- nice work. One suggestion -- it helps for visibility when timing things to take your partner's fingernail polish (red or orange is best) and coat that timing pointer on the water pump with a coat of polish. Just a little tip. Otherwise everything looks good and looks like it is coming together. You didn't disassemble the intake cam adjusters -- good thing! Re-assembly requires a $$$ MB special tool, which I had to buy last year. Can be done without the tool, but you are fighting the spring pressure on the adjuster and it is a PITA. And glad to see you used a factory MB chain tensioner instead of an aftermarket unit. Chain tensioner = critical part that should NEVER be skimped on. Look forward to seeing that power steering/tandem pump (does your car have SLS?) and bracket go back on the driver's side now that the chain rails are re-installed !!
I did check movement of the edjusters and they seem to move smoothly. This only has the standard power steering pump. Although the 500E I have at work right now has SLS. As it were, I'm actually finding your write up from 2013 on rebuilding it more useful than anything MB has ever put out. I would love to do a video on it but I'm not allowed to do any on anything work related.
@@FriendlyMBTech Yes, all E500Es made worldwide had SLS. A few 400E420s had it, but it's pretty rare on US cars. Same with ASR -- all E500Es had it, but only a percentage of 400E420s (perhaps 30-40%?). The Vickers tandem pumps are a bit more of a PITA because of that one circlip part, if I remember correctly, but fortunately my car didn't have the Vickers pump.
The problem with re-assembling the cam adjusters is mainly not just the spring tension, but you have to ROTATE the sprocket to get it in place while holding things against the spring tension, an operation that is much easier said than done. I tried many dozens of times before giving up, and just getting the factory tool. Completed it in like 3 minutes with the factory tool.
Last year for my COVID project I cheaped out and installed a GRAF water pump instead of getting a factory unit, which I should have done.
ALSO, when reassembling things up front, the MB factory fan clutch (Horton/Sachs is the OEM) is now NLA as of last year, so if replacing the fan clutch, you have to go with the aftermarket ACM clutch, which works well, but activates sooner and de-activates later than the factory units did. Nothing like the fan clutch continuign to roar when the engine is spinning at 6,000 RPM !!!
@@gerryvanzandt7894 The 500E I'm working on has the Luk tandem pump which I got the parts kits for that brand when I ordered it.
I don't know off the top of my head which aftermarket brand fan clutch I bought. It's one of the few aftermarket parts I'm using. Nothing internal to the engine though. I fully expect it to sound like a semi fan though.
@@FriendlyMBTech Just note, too, that the center bolt for the aftermarket fan clutch will likely need to be different (shorter) than the factory bolt, becuase the aftermarket clutches are skinnier than the factory clutch. Easily obtainable bolt at your local hardware store in the right pitch, length, etc. It's all on my forum in the search. ACM clutches, though Chinese-made, are acceptable as long as you are good with the prolonged roaring. It's really a shame that MB stopped making the clutches, though at $800+ a pop they were not cheap. I got one back in 2016 from MB and used that on my own COVID project rebuild.
Beautiful work my dear boy! 👍🙂
Thank you your Highness!
It looks like I might be able to make one but realized it's probably not that simple.
But the cam cap part # for the dowel is R119 051 26 03.
So you're referring to the dowel that's in the bottom of the cam bearing cap? That does not look like it comes separately from the bearing cap. The parts guide does not show a separate part for that. I checked the passenger side of my old engine last night and the part numbers on those bearing caps don't match yours. Is the one you're missing on the driver's side (US)? I would assume they're all the same from 119 to 119.
@@FriendlyMBTech I noticed in your video @ 16:13 the exhaust cam cap location beside the 4th lifter from the front is missing one of the dowel sleeves I assume stayed in the cap when you removed it. Some of mine came out with the caps but the one I'm referring to wasn't in the head or cap and is a cap on passenger side the one with the guide pin hole for timing with 4 bolts for the intake cam.
I have a M119 engine. I get a code for ignition system fault that will not clear. I have new wires, caps/rotors, fuel pump and filter and some other things Im probably forgetting. Car runs but has nowhere near the power it should. When I pull some spark plugs they are soaked with fuel. I switched out the EZL and it ran the same. From my reasearch and limited knowledge I think the timing jumped or the LH module is dumping fuel. Gas milage is like pouring gas on the ground. When I use a stethascope to listen to the fuel injectors half are working way more then the other half (but its not all on one side its split). If you're looking at the engine from the front the injectors that go to the right side cap and rotor are doing much more then the left side cap and rotor which makes no sense to me. I really hope I dont have to put new guides in or something but I need to fiigure this out.
I'm so sorry I didn't see this comment. If you haven't figured it out yet, what year and model is it?
@@FriendlyMBTech 1995 sl500
@@Maybe1Someday have you checked for vacuum leaks or unmetered air leaks?
@@FriendlyMBTech I have not and dont know the best way about that
@Maybe1Someday you could check all the vacuum hoses and lines and make sure they aren't cracked or too soft. There are some vacuum elbows on the intake manifold that can deteriorate over time. Two of them are towards the rear of the engine. Any vacuum leaks or intake leaks after the mass air flow sensor will cause the oxygen sensor to see the extra oxygen and cause the computer to think the engine is running lean. When that happens it will attempt to correct the lean situation by increasing fuel delivery.
Hey ! Thank your very much! helped me so much! Im working on my m119 from my W210 and without you i would be lost
Not all Heros wear Capes !
Greetings from Germany :D
You're very welcome and I'm glad I could help!
thank you for youre videos, great work 👍 I'm doing a chain,railguide and tensioner change on my mercedes 500sl from 1990 with the m119 engine. When I try to get the exhaust camshaft on place it is very hard to get it there, it presses down 2lifters.. I have replaced all the lifters to new Ina ones. Do I have to do something eith the new lifters before installing them, other than lube them up? Are they so "hard" because they are new?
I would use assembly lube and install them. When I installed mine, I checked each one to see if the center was moving free. I don't have any experience with new one so I couldn't tell you how a new one feels. I'd assume they shouldn't be solid.
I believe my m119 timing chain jumped.I have the balancer set at 45 and notice the pin holes don't line up.
The chain seems tight, tensioners not damaged and just don't understand how this could happen.I'm just digging into this today.
Damaged timing chain guides possibly?
Make a wedge of plastic that fits inthe space between the edge of the head and exhaust sprocket so it can't jump a tooth while messing with the chain.
@jasonbirch1182 that's a good idea.
Good evening, I'm in the process of rebuilding my 119.960 with major reference to your video's and would like to thank you for all you share.
I have approximately 100 parts ordered for the rebuild- Gaskets, seals, some sensors and 32 new lifters.
In regards to that I'm hoping you might be able to help me as I noticed I've lost one of my bearing cap dowel sleeves which according to my notes were no longer used to keep caps fixed in position since 1993.
I can't find replacement dowel sleeves for cam caps or a part number for them anywhere and was wondering if you knew of a part number for these or availability.
I've searched high and low for it really beating myself up over it any suggestions or help you can share is greatly appreciated.
Thank you
You're welcome! Quick question, what's the part number of the cam cap that the dowel goes to?
Very helpful video man! I'm currently in the process of replacing my upper 4 chain guides, tensioner and timing chain. For rolling in the new chain, do you think it would be easier to take all the cams out, roll in the new chain just on the crank, set crank to 45° btdc and then install cams as you did, or should I roll in the new chain with all cams installed? (I'm scared that if I chose the last method and one of the cams jumps during roll in, I might bend a valve or two...)
If you're replacing the guides that I did in this video then you'll need to take the cams out anyway. Then you can roll in the new chain with the cams out. After you get the new chain in then do the installation like this with the crankshaft at 45 degrees btdc cylinder 1. As long as all the pin holes line up with the crankshaft there, you're good. Crank the engine over slowly by hand once it's back together to double check timing. I crank it over 4 times because that's one complete combustion cycle. After 4 rotations the pin holes should line up again with the crankshaft at 45 degrees btdc.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thanks for replying, the intake cams are out at the moment, so taking the exhaust ones out is easy right now. Will go with the method you described, fingers crossed all goes well! 😁
@@sahandhajshekoleslami3952 good luck. Just remember that after all the cams are back in you'll want all the slack in the chain to be on the tensioner side between the passenger exhaust cam and the crankshaft. Then once all the cams are lined up and pinned, the tensioner will go in smoothly and take up that slack.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thanks! Will keep that in mind 👍🏻
SO i set all the cams in and chained and pinned at 45. i then put tensioner on and unpin and spin engine. the first time it hits 45 again it isnt lined up at all like way. the second spin when it hits 45 it lines up. (im a rookie here) so is this correct the pins should only line up every other crank over on 45?
Correct. They'll line up every other time. Sounds like you got it together properly.
Pls does same timing sitting goes for V 8 R 11 too?
I'm not understanding. What is an R11?
R 119
Sorry meant R 119
@muhammed ishola I'm still not understanding. Are you meaning an R129 SL? They moth have the M119 engine and the timing would be the same.
@@FriendlyMBTech car is e class 400
Hey FNT, I know I'm late to the party but I figured I'd ask my piece. I've got a '95 M119 and just today the head gasket(s) blew out. For context, the car sat for 7-ish months until I finally fixed the misfire/ no spark (EZL, go figure). Upon startup, I smell coolant. Pop the oil cap, and I've got light roast coffee. Anyways, after replacing the head gaskets, do I need to worry about timing the crankshaft? The car is in perfect time as it is, and I imagine the only timing I'd need to do would be for the camshafts correct? I've turned a wrench or two before, so I'm not scared of getting dirty. I've never timed an engine before, although I do want to learn. Great video by the way! I feel somewhat better after watching you explain in detail about the specs and procedures.
Hello and thank you for reaching out! Correct, if the crankshaft never moved, you should be ok. I would still verify the crankshaft position by having the front cover and pulley set on, but the crankshaft shouldn't have moved.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thank you! I had figured as much. The unfortunate thing is that I won't be able to do it with the engine out, as I don't own a hoist nor an engine stand. But I've seen people who have done it with the motor still in the car, albeit with considerably more effort. I appreciate your video series, as it's helping me understand my engine more. You definitely make it look easy haha.
@avlvelo2688 thank you very much. Please feel free to reach out if you have any other questions.
@@FriendlyMBTechthank you! I actually did have one more question, but I’m not sure how to word it. Upon inspecting the MB service manual, I’m confused as to if you rotate the crank after doing the driver side camshafts. As in, once TDC is found for Cyl. 1, and both intake & exhaust cams are installed, do you repeat the process for the first cylinder on the driver’s side? I guess it would be cylinder 5 but I’m unsure of the cylinder numbers. I personally dont think that is correct, but the MB manual’s pictures seem to show that. Another possibility is that I’m overthinking this, and the only cylinder that needs to be TDC for timing purposes is cylinder 1 😂 thanks in advance, I’m still trying to wrap my head around this
@@avlvelo2688 do not rotate the crankshaft until all four cams are in and torqued properly. Everything is timed to that one position of the crankshaft.
Yes you were upside down for a bit! Good video!
Thank you!
Hey FNT, can you describe how you are making adjustments to the cams by one tooth at a time? I am having issues getting the holes to match back up once I turn the engine over. 😑
How many times are you turning the engine over?
@@FriendlyMBTech four times. When I set the engine to 45 degrees I am able to get the pins in the cams but it is a tight fit on two of them. Then I install the tensioner, remove the pins and turn it over four times. But then the holes don't match. Some do, others are off by a bit.
@JoeZ19 if they aren't off by a tooth then I wouldn't worry about it. The cam adjusters will make up the difference. The only way to make adjustments one tooth at a time is to remove the cams up to the camshaft you want to make an adjustment to and move that one by one tooth. It took me several attempts to get it correct in the end.
@@FriendlyMBTech ok I'll take another stab at it today and see how close I can get. It'll be my third attempt now. Hoping to get it right this time. Did slack on the chain play a factor? I know you mentioned pulling it all to the right side.
@@joez1966 if the timing chain is stretched, then that might have something to do with it.
is there a way to remove the chain tensioners without taking everything apart?
They all require quite a bit of taking things apart. The small upper guides need the valve covers removed and two of those at least need cam gears removed. The lower larger ones need the timing cover removed.
When you had to set the timing on the Passenger intake cam because it was off a tooth. Did you just loosen the tensioner and then reset the cam? Also great video!
I took the tensioner completely out when I had to move the cam a tooth. With the tensioner in but loosened as much as possible, it was still putting pressure on the chain.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thanks! keep up that great videos
One question : where did you purchase your head gaskets
I got mine at the dealership I work at.
@@FriendlyMBTech ok thx
Hello Friendly Neighbor,
Man, you are such a precious resource and wise advisor.
Many, many thanks for your time and effort.
I'll change the timing chain and chain tensioner on my 500e when I'll go back to France next year.
Can you give me your opinion on Febi Bilstein chains compare to MB original parts?
Thanks in advance, very best regards,
Take care,
From Vietnam, Richard
Thank you! I don't have any experience with the Febi Bilstein timing chain and my opinion is admittedly skewed toward factory parts. Also, my cost on the parts is substantially lower than retail due to working at a dealership.
What I can tell you about the factory chain was that even after 100k miles, I don't think it really **needed** to be replaced. When I lined up the old chain and the new chain, they looked exactly the same length. I just replaced it for peace of mind. I replaced everything else I took apart. I didn't want the timing chain to be the only thing not replaced.
Going off Google, the part number I used A 002 997 84 94 is about $470 retail. The other brand on FCPEURO.COM is about $125 which is almost 4 times the cost. I can see why that would be appealing. I've never used that brand either or heard anything about it. These other brands might very well be repackaged factory parts. Who knows. Also, fcpeuro.com does have a lifetime warranty on everything they sell I believe. I don't think that covers the parts that a broken timing chain could damage though. Because I work at a dealership, and my cost was more affordable, I stuck with 100% factory parts inside the engine.
@@FriendlyMBTech Thank you for the kind answer, I get your point, it make sense.
Kind of you also to quote the right part nbr, I'll check with my local dealership.
I love your postings!!! 👍👍👍
@@rcdrum29 you're welcome. Have them double check the part number also. That was just the one I needed. I don't know if there is a year difference. There probably isn't. When I googled that part number, it came up for a 1997 E420 so it's probably the same part for every year.
@@FriendlyMBTech Clear, I 'll check out the reference for my 500e.
Take care,
Richard
I have been following this project for several months and am completing an M119 for an E420. I am concerned about the accuracy of my timing now as I was unable to perfectly nail the four pins with the crank at 45 BTDC. Looking at the chain guides do you think it is possible for the chain to ride up on the outer edge of the two guides between the crank and driver’s side exhaust cam sprocket? I was wondering if that is where the slack has gone. I was not able to perfectly pin that first cam at 45….Is there enough movement for those guides to be coaxed over to allow the chain to center up between the two edges? I am looking for reasons the marks aren’t matching up….it’s off by about four degrees about 49 BTDC. Will this keep the engine from running?
I'd say the chain riding on one edge of a chain guide is definitely a possibility. I had to line up the chain with the guides very carefully because of that. Also, if the holes on the back of the cam sprockets don't line up with the cam bearing caps then something is definitely off. If the crankshaft is off by 4 degrees when the cams are pinned then it sounds like the crankshaft is off by a tooth. It took me several tries to get things lined up properly before I was able to torque everything down. I had gotten the 4th camshaft in and found out I was off a tooth all the way back on the first or second cam and had to take things back apart. You will want the camshafts pinned when installing the tensioner because the tensioner will pull the cams and crankshaft out of time. That is why it's super important to have all the timing chain slack between the passenger side exhaust camshaft and the crankshaft. Four degrees of timing shouldn't keep the car from running but at the very least you might have a check engine light.
@@FriendlyMBTech I just realized my old harmonic balancer markings are almost impossible to see. I had been referencing the large center mark but I looked at a new balancer and see that zero is actually 25 deg after that mark. Much adieu about nothing. But I do need to reset the timing now…
@@joewestfall2952 yeah that'll do it. Were the timing marks not raised like in the video? I've seen some on other engines where they are laser printed on and next to impossible to see.
@@FriendlyMBTech The harmonic balancer edges are covered in small surface scratches from 27 years of use. The raised markings are faint and pretty difficult to see. I moved all the cams one tooth and now it pins at about 39 deg. If I only pin the one passenger exhaust cam and pull the slack out it indicates about 42 deg. This is with all new chain guides. I’m gonna call this good and try and get it to start.
So I want you opinion here. I have 100% new chain and tensioners including those under the timing cover. With this I can pin every cam at 49 or 39 BTDC by changing the cams one tooth. Now if I go over to the passenger side only pinning that exhaust cam due to the new chain I get more like 52 or 42 BTDC depending again on the cam tooth. I’m just unable to nail 45 perfectly. The engine had 230,000 so sprockets may be worn, etc. I decided after putting the engine back in to look at the timing again (49 just seemed out of bounds yet 39 seemed odd also) with all the cams pinned. I used a camera and confirmed the chain is not riding up on the guides anywhere.
Great video series! Super helpful as I am tearing into my M119 out of my SL500 due to coolant mixing into the oil from somewhere. Quick question: where did you get the dowels that you used to pin down the cams? Are they available online? Thanks.
They're a Mercedes-Benz specialty tool. I borrowed them from work when I used them. I can get you the part number tomorrow.
@@FriendlyMBTech thanks I really appreciate that. Do you have any tips on coolant mixing with the oil on the M119 engine? I am almost down to the bare block so I will be checking the head gasket for sure but I feel like it is not going to be that simple. 😅 So I'm asking around to see where else I can check as I disassemble the engine.
@@joez1966 that's the problem I was having. The coolant was disappearing and the reservoir smelled like exhaust. So I just got a different engine that the company said had good compression. I tore the "new" engine apart because I kept finding things that needed to be replaced. It got down to the block also.
@@FriendlyMBTech nice. I'm considering buying a new engine also but I wanted to break the current engine down first to see if it can be saved. Is there a reason you didn't go into the block? I have been staring at my block for 2 days now trying to decide. I noticed in the tech docs that there are some self locking bolts that can only be used once. Seems complex in there.
@@joez1966 I'm sorry I forgot the part number for you. It's 119 589 00 15 00. There are 4 of them. I didn't go into the block because our resident old guy in the shop told me the 119 doesn't like being over heated. Especially the open deck block versions. So I went ahead and got a replacement engine. Maybe my engine can be rebuilt. I don't know. You can have it if you want. Where are you located?
Can u name the part at 4:18 i cant find it anywhere
The parts guide calls it the oil separator. It's part# A 119 010 00 62.
Wow - nice work!
Thank you!
Probably no way of doing it while the engine in the car?
If you didn't have to replace anything else, you can remove the cams with the engine still in the car.
Nice
excuse me you will have the torque of the bench, connecting rods and head "butt" of that engine the m119, and you will also have the marks of the timing chain the teeth that are between each mark. porfavor
No entiendo. ¿Prefieres el español?
Si , prefiero español, ocupo saber a cuánto se torquean la bancada del cigüeñal , el torque de bielas , el torque de la cabeza y por último ocuparía saber el número de eslabones que hay en las marcas de la cadena para ponerlo a tiempo? Te lo agradezco
@@alexdisainer Hello and I am sorry for the late reply.
1. There are several torques depending on which connecting rod bolt design you have. If you have part# 116 038 05 71 the torque is 55Nm first step. Second step is torque again at 45Nm and then a 90 degree turn.
If you have cylinder head bolt part number 102 038 02 71 the torque is 45Nm first step. Second step is 40Nm and a 90 degree turn.
If you have part number 111 038 00 71 the torque is 40Nm first step. Second step is 30Nm and a 90 degree turn.
@@alexdisainer El par del cigüeñal es...
Los pernos dentro del cárter están apretados a 30 Nm.
Las tuercas M10X1 están apretadas a 50 Nm.
Los pernos laterales M10X40 están apretados a 50 Nm.
@@alexdisainer El par de apriete de los tornillos de la culata es...
Paso 1 - 55Nm
Paso 2 - giro de 90 grados
Paso 3 - giro de 90 grados
Haha I this is great, doing heads on my m119 today
Good luck! Feel free to ask questions if you need any help.
@@FriendlyMBTech I have a question: on the cam covers, do
You use the anaerobic seal on all the covers where the aluminum meets?
@@thewheeze the valve covers and spark plug tubes use a rubber gasket. The cylinder head front covers use the sealant.
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