Good luck with the new production business, if you are looking for product ideas might I suggest Swiss army knife compatible blades, the custom SAK scene is growing and it'd be great to have an option other than tearing up Spyderco knives. A Fit To Survive collaboration perhaps?
Hello Will, the waves in your thin strips is caused by the out of phase cardan joint, it's easily fixed and should make the strips come out flat, unbolt the centre flange rotate the flanges relative to each other so that the individual universal joints line up "eye to eye" and bolt it back together... Probably 30 minutes in all...
With the way the two cardan joints are set up (45 degrees out of phase), the velocity of the top roller will occilate slightly. With the small angles on the joints it will not be a large occilation but it will occilate. To fix this, you can unbolt the two halves of the joint and mount them so that the two hinges of the middle part are parallell with eachother. Search for "double cardan shaft" for how they should be oriented to give a constant speed output.
Those anatomically correct body pieces are very expensive, hire a homeless person for 8 hours and tell them you'll pay them double if they finish in 4 hours. Then go sit in the office and wait for the screaming to start. PS. Don't forget to set-up the cameras. ✋️➡️👋
@@mtnbkr8480 A cheaper alternative would be a leg of lamb or pork or some other lump of meat with bones in. The cheapest would be a whole chicken but they have much more fragile bones.
Hey Will, just because I care about your safety: add an emergency stop on the other side as well. And maybe swap it for a slightly bigger one that you can easily operate with your knees.
I'm a metal caster in the UK and I have 35 Kilos of the first ever bars of Aluminium, Brass, Bronze and Copper I cast when I first started (they way from 800 grams to about 3 Kilos). I am prepared to send them out to Bozeman if you're interested in flattening one of each? so I could send you about 9 kilos of the soft Metals if you want!
@@mentiras_xox , yes a Viennese veal schnitzel. German schnitzels are usually pork, right? I'm from the Netherlands, nearby but we don't have a Dutch version of schnitzels. We do have thin pancakes but not like those French ones, those are crap... eh., crepes ;)
Nice machine. The rollers are exquisitely made, and any damage will be embossed into your work. So keep it to soft metal, probably no harder than 40 RC. If a hard pair of tongs or pliers get caught, your rollers will be damaged and will have to be re-ground and polished. I hope they're through-hardened, not case hardened!
He will love your channel. I’m not sure if you know this or not but the universal joint” the red thingy “ is out of phase. The top roller will spin faster and slower four times each rotation. looks like it just needs to be unbolted rotated one or two bolts and bolted back together. It’s a very minute difference in speed but it may affect finish quality. Think of them as opposing C. The one attached to the roller should be a mirror image to the one attached to the gearbox.
Yes i noticed the same thing. I magine it is the result of someone disassembling and reassembling the double cardan joint in the past without really knowing how they work.
at the same time it can be difficult to see if the rollers are moving, depending on ambient noise it might be safe to be able to SEE those big ole knuckles spinning. (so a cover with a window)
fun things for the roller steak, bananas, water bottle, hot dogs, cucumber, make some guac, maybe a ballistic dummy hand to show what could happen if you mess up?
Omg yes on the guac idea! He needs to "review" the rollers like he does with the scam knives and finish up the review by making guac. It'll probably be a satirical bit in a video but it'll be a good callback to his other series.
I would put a large bar across so you can just bump it with you leg an not have to look for the switch if the bad thinks happen, just like on a fire exit
I have a german made one of a similar size that we use a lot. Very nice machines. We have rougly the same control setup, but i chose to have pedal control only. Do keep an eye on the rollers, they are usually induction hardened or case hardened and might develop cracks over time due to the difference in hardness on the surface and interior. I also had a table mounted on both sides of the rollers, but removed it on the side we feed from as it just got in the way.
On the safety side, the cutoff switch should be under the middle of the rollers - if you get your right hand in the roller, no way you will be able to get to the button
. . . . . Your ability to ignore that frackin piece of paper just flyin over landing on your foot and just staying there was wild. I was screaming in my head over it
Rolling mills are incredibly handy! I used Gabe’s (anchorage forge/anchorage brewing) to make a sword billet. Hopefully you make it to his shop one day. Im excited to see that beaudry!
I love the trouble you have explaining things, it's fun to see you mid sentence realise that you don't know what to say next. Unprofessionally professional.
Will, Try about three or five stacked slices of soft white bread through the rolling mill. Should come out very thin (duh) and rock hard. Probably hard enough for knife handle material (but too thin would be my guess). Maybe thin white spacers? On another note: I’m happy to see you making use of the old shop! Wonderful that it is not just sitting there gathering dust.
Not to "um technically" you but, technically that is just a double U-joint system as it does not have the center yoke, and the joints are not aligned going in and out.
@@devoncanfield2058 Both of you are correct, a U-Joint (Universal-Joint) is sometimes called a cardan-joint, hooke-joint, spicer joint or cross joint. In this case its a just two cardan joints bolted together, with an offset of 45 degrees (they can baisicly be at any offset angle, it only chanches the rotational variances.)
@@constantins.2981 a double cardon joint specifically refers to a double joint with a common center yoke and carrier. That allows the input side to match the parabolic speed of the output, which reduced vibrations within the assembly. That doesn't maintain a common speed within the input and output. An offset double joint system does not reduce these vibrations, but it does reduce the parabolic speed difference from input to output. Double cardon has matching parabolic speed difference, offset single joint has opposite parabolic speed difference, which is what's required for this assembly, where the top drum has to spin at the same continuous speed as the bottom.
That is the best reason to do maintenance on a machine. I'd actually do all the maintenance on schedule like I'm supposed to if I could find precision metal (or something else valuable) in it while breaking it down, cleaning and rebuilding
The complications arising from having a machine that works in thirds of a mm and then trying to work those numbers back to decimalized inches but the standard way of dividing inches is using different highly composite numbers as the denominator instead of just sticking with single base is exactly why the French came up with the metric system.
When I was a kid pressing pennies through a press with a pattern was popular. I would like to see a you roll a penny with a press pattern to stamp something "Stelter manufacturing" related.
Seems you forgot a spring in the large adjustment wheel, possibly you cut away just didn’t see it going back, I wouldn’t take it apart again as there are close tolerances on those parts and would look into replacing the oiler system they really need that lubrication every time you use it Continued Success Fabrizio
What a tool!! So many ideas went through my head watching that! Definitely would love to see timascus round bar cut a coin off the end and roll that through. Timascus spear would get a lotta views i think. Enjoy!!
That's a nice thing! Suggestion one: Add a motor and similar controller to the thickness wheel too. That would open up for som nice distal taper when you crank out long sharp things for the aspiring cutters out there. Suggestion two: If you can't replace the rollers for home made ones with a preferred pattern... ... maybe try to screw on some makeshift add-on profiles? (rolling die?) Hmm... Distal taper and most of the profiling at a single, quick and very exact station? Suggestion three: If #3 would work, shorter pieces could have a variable pattern spread on one turn of the mill. A nice feature when you produce shorter daggers with runes and other intriguing patterns pressed in to the blade. Suggestion four: Roll something Mr Steele left behind. Good video. Keep 'em coming!
A ballistic gel hand will of course be primo content. Also, a second emergency stop button on the other side might be a good idea if it can feed from both directions. EStop is only useful if you can reach it.
From the last vid, the steak knife is a solid move. I was looking at your cheaper offerings and had no idea what the Japanese carving chisel thing was and had to google it.
I work at a machine shop that makes these exact “calanders” as they call them, some weighing up to 100,000 pounds, amazing machines when they get that large
Try wetting leather and embedding copper or brass wires and/or rivets at one go. Make your own bonded leather reinforced knife sheaths on the same machine that made the blanks. Also, Damascus leaf.
I have a confession to make. You said "we have to do" XYZ a lot of times but I actually didn't help at all. I'm sorry, I literally just watched you work the whole time.
I wonder how clean of a mosaic damascus pattern you can get out of a mill like this. Maybe not for the initial welding process, but truing up patterns before tiling and perhaps the final ferry flip. In my head, the even pressure applied throughout the bar would be useful. The stretching down the length might cause some distortion that should be taken into consideration pre-forge, though.
Depending on how wide the material is , you will have a crown in the material due to flex in the rolls. You should test how much deflection you get. Maybe .002"?
I've eaten black huels for 3 years now. What I recommend is adding creatine, whey protein, and fiber; if you planning on consuming a significant amount of it. Creatine helps with better hydration, the whey protein helps with a creamy melted ice cream consistency, and fiber to get it out the other end.
@@eRogue7 it really depends on activity, gender, and age. I'm tall, moderately active, 26yo male, and I drink 2 huels per workday, in each one I add in this order: 7 ice cubes, 1 11oz chocolate premier protein box shake, 2.5 grams of creatine, 2 tsp of benefiber, 2 scoops of chocolate black huel, fill water up to the huel bottle mesh, and shake. I also eat a small amount of nuts, fruit, meat, and cheese; totaling 300cal. Additionally I drink 50 oz of water and 32 oz of lightly sweetened black tea. On weekends I usually eat Japanese, BBQ, and Mediterranean. I also take some multivitamins, and heart and joint supplements. I've developed this based on how my body responds to food, and you should obviously experiment to see what your body responds best to. A balanced diet requires variety, and your body will tell you what it needs.
Check the manual, but I don't think the two U-joints are clocked correctly. This would cause the top roller to speed up and slow down slightly 2x per revolution and I'd expect it to cause wavy bars. Look at the drive-shaft under a truck, that's how you want them lined up.
I've seen a lot of people talking about the u-joints being out of phase. When it come to cars this is a bad thing but it's a machine. So at max rpms this thing does what 15 to 30 rpms, anymore than that would be scary with hot metal. So I doubt the vibrations are a factor. Now the inconsonant speed might be an issue but after watching them in use it doesn't look like that matters either. So thinking about it for a bit I would wager that it gives it better adjustability for wide/tall material. It still could be wrong and need to be in phase but I would not go changing it based on vehicle logic and would wait till they find literature on assembly and maintenance for it. They might have it already and it put together correctly.
Having them 45 or 90 degrees out of phase won't change the thickness om material you can run. In use, the angle of the center shaft is fixed compared to the input/output and the universal joints have to rotate through all possible angles so their phasing wont affect how far you can move the rollers (just their orientation at any given time). Personally I cannot see any reason why you wouldn't want a constant speed on the top roller matching the bottom one. I do however agree that vibrations are no issue for the low speed this runs at.
have you ever had a squeeze bottle / tube of something and you just couldn''t get the last little bits of product out? well, no more ^^ this is to say: stuff to feed through - ketchup bottle (or other condiment of your choice) - toothpaste
12:21 never had there been a more appropriate warning sticker. That thing will grab your fingers or anything else you feed into it and crush it like nothing and keep pulling through
If you try to run a 50hz 3ph motor on 60hz it runs faster not slower. That's why in a VFD when you turn down the frequency it slows down. Otherwise to stop a vfd you would have to go to infinity hz.
A rolling mill is a very powerful tool and one of the most memorable things I remember being shown in college was a piece of steel with someone's finger prints in it. The unfortunate person was wearing gloves to handle hot steel and the rolling mill caught the gloves and pulled at least two fingers in with the steel. I don't understand the physics of why the finger prints were there in the steel, but they were. I would suggest that you have your electrician make an emergency stop that can be activated by a shoulder or thigh if someone gets pulled into the mill. That red button will be hard to hit with an extremity going through the mill. Also you should cover the shafts that transfer the power from the gear box. They rotate slow, but the power is considerable. The mill has limits on how much it can do per pass as you found out in the video. The rolls can break and you can score the rolls. Have fun and respect the power in that machine. It is deceiving, because of the slower speed.
Instead of having to remember the movement to rotation of the wheel, add a digital readout. Would not only add to consistent quality but improve production time
Thanks Huel. Use code: STELTER for 15% off your first order + a free starter kit: huel.com/Stelter
Hey Will I heard about you taking over the old workshop. I wish you the best of luck in your business. Good luck my friend
Good luck with the new production business, if you are looking for product ideas might I suggest Swiss army knife compatible blades, the custom SAK scene is growing and it'd be great to have an option other than tearing up Spyderco knives. A Fit To Survive collaboration perhaps?
I get hard off of machine restoration modification repair videos.
Make pasta with the roller.
I was gonna say make figures or shapes out of aluminum foil and pass them through the mill.
On the feed side, instead of a tray, add a fence. It will help you feed square to the rollers but shouldn't be in the way.
Sick pasta maker
That's why it's an Italian machine.
dammit you beat me to it.
Hello Will, the waves in your thin strips is caused by the out of phase cardan joint, it's easily fixed and should make the strips come out flat, unbolt the centre flange rotate the flanges relative to each other so that the individual universal joints line up "eye to eye" and bolt it back together... Probably 30 minutes in all...
With the way the two cardan joints are set up (45 degrees out of phase), the velocity of the top roller will occilate slightly. With the small angles on the joints it will not be a large occilation but it will occilate. To fix this, you can unbolt the two halves of the joint and mount them so that the two hinges of the middle part are parallell with eachother. Search for "double cardan shaft" for how they should be oriented to give a constant speed output.
I was just about to say the same thing
I think a fun thing to put into the rolling mill would be a replica hand with bones, just as a safety demonstration.
Like a ballistic gel hand with fake bones in it!
Those anatomically correct body pieces are very expensive, hire a homeless person for 8 hours and tell them you'll pay them double if they finish in 4 hours. Then go sit in the office and wait for the screaming to start.
PS. Don't forget to set-up the cameras. ✋️➡️👋
@@mtnbkr8480 A cheaper alternative would be a leg of lamb or pork or some other lump of meat with bones in. The cheapest would be a whole chicken but they have much more fragile bones.
@@poisonadder1 Cheaper sure, but where's the fun in that.
@@HighlandTimber. Clear Ballistics makes exactly that thing for use in firearms training.
you can make croissant dough which is basically a Damascus pastry
From this day forward, I will forever refer to croissant dough as damascus pastry..... Thank you.
@@thebeaubriscoe million layer croissant challenge
Baklava for days.
A DAMASCUS CROISSANT :O That would be a cool paperweight/sculpture I guess
I wanna see someone make ladder-pattern croissants now
Try to heat up glass bottle and flatten it out. Maybe come up with cool looking decorative glass tiles
Hey Will, just because I care about your safety: add an emergency stop on the other side as well. And maybe swap it for a slightly bigger one that you can easily operate with your knees.
YES!
Because this is a good idea I am going to tell youtube to show this comment more love.
Ideally a full width bar. Both sides.
I'm a metal caster in the UK and I have 35 Kilos of the first ever bars of Aluminium, Brass, Bronze and Copper I cast when I first started (they way from 800 grams to about 3 Kilos). I am prepared to send them out to Bozeman if you're interested in flattening one of each? so I could send you about 9 kilos of the soft Metals if you want!
You could make perfect schnitzels with that machine.
They should be the size of a dinnerplate.
Should clarify that you mean Viennese schnitzel. German schnitzel are usually significantly smaller, in my experience at least.
@@mentiras_xox , yes a Viennese veal schnitzel.
German schnitzels are usually pork, right?
I'm from the Netherlands, nearby but we don't have a Dutch version of schnitzels.
We do have thin pancakes but not like those French ones, those are crap... eh., crepes ;)
As a lifelong abalone diver, I am thoroughly impressed with your idea. I need one of those machines.
@@s1gne Sure there's something about the meat but most importantly: Vienna schnitzel is bigger than Germany schnitzel
German schnitzel can be very big too.
"Gold in them there mills" is comedy gold. Thanks for the laugh - never apologize for jokes!
Nice machine. The rollers are exquisitely made, and any damage will be embossed into your work. So keep it to soft metal, probably no harder than 40 RC. If a hard pair of tongs or pliers get caught, your rollers will be damaged and will have to be re-ground and polished. I hope they're through-hardened, not case hardened!
Yeah, I was wondering if they needed a polish. There’s a brown area that might be grease, might be rust.
He will love your channel. I’m not sure if you know this or not but the universal joint” the red thingy “ is out of phase. The top roller will spin faster and slower four times each rotation. looks like it just needs to be unbolted rotated one or two bolts and bolted back together. It’s a very minute difference in speed but it may affect finish quality. Think of them as opposing C. The one attached to the roller should be a mirror image to the one attached to the gearbox.
Yes i noticed the same thing. I magine it is the result of someone disassembling and reassembling the double cardan joint in the past without really knowing how they work.
It should have been error proofed, or marked with scribed/angle ground lines at least.
And for the love of everything, cover those axles with a guard!!!
I was literally about to make this comment! There needs to be a guard over those axles, especially as there's where the controls are!
@@David_Dutton exactly, and that top one is such a clothing trap too!
Probably worse than the rollers to get caught into. Would be violent
what he said ^
at the same time it can be difficult to see if the rollers are moving, depending on ambient noise it might be safe to be able to SEE those big ole knuckles spinning. (so a cover with a window)
fun things for the roller steak, bananas, water bottle, hot dogs, cucumber, make some guac, maybe a ballistic dummy hand to show what could happen if you mess up?
Omg yes on the guac idea! He needs to "review" the rollers like he does with the scam knives and finish up the review by making guac. It'll probably be a satirical bit in a video but it'll be a good callback to his other series.
So happy to see the old shop back in use. God Bless you Will!
You need the emergency stop both sides if people work both sides
I would put a large bar across so you can just bump it with you leg an not have to look for the switch if the bad thinks happen, just like on a fire exit
Even steady pressure, fantastic!
Even grain patterns without shocking the steel, Damascus should be phenomenal. Can’t wait to see what you make
I expected will's most cherished machine in the shop to be the automatic filing machine that saves him from hand filing everything 😂
“This machine is Italian. Maybe that’s why it has horses on it.”
Story checks out 💯
I'm going to convert my pasta machine to do the same thing.
I have a german made one of a similar size that we use a lot. Very nice machines. We have rougly the same control setup, but i chose to have pedal control only. Do keep an eye on the rollers, they are usually induction hardened or case hardened and might develop cracks over time due to the difference in hardness on the surface and interior. I also had a table mounted on both sides of the rollers, but removed it on the side we feed from as it just got in the way.
Definatly add a two channel DRO and have a scale on both sides aof the rollers as you will be able to trim in an angle of the top roller
SO nice to see you in your natural environment Will, all that's missing is some collaborations !
Put a metal handle on a old hammer and then rolle it! Love the work and seeing the shop been put to good use.
On the safety side, the cutoff switch should be under the middle of the rollers - if you get your right hand in the roller, no way you will be able to get to the button
Dang. Props to Nolan. that guy knows his stuff for sure.
. . . . . Your ability to ignore that frackin piece of paper just flyin over landing on your foot and just staying there was wild. I was screaming in my head over it
Another big toy for the boys. Stay safe.
Congrats on the shop acquisition! Looking forwards to seeing what you do with that!
I’m not sure how it increases in length but not width?
Seems like magic.
I would suggest having a feed tray with built in adjustable width guides to help ensure the part is feeding in straight.
I enjoyed "gold in them there mills."
I love Will's very technical descriptions. Really helps you understand the tools he's using.😜
Feed a superball through the rolling mill
As someone who actually quite likes tools and machines...
I HAD NO IDEA A MACHINE LIKE THIS EXISTED...AND I AM AMAZED BY IT!!
Rolling mills are incredibly handy! I used Gabe’s (anchorage forge/anchorage brewing) to make a sword billet. Hopefully you make it to his shop one day. Im excited to see that beaudry!
Gotta love a new Stelter equimpent teardown and rebuild video.
I love the trouble you have explaining things, it's fun to see you mid sentence realise that you don't know what to say next. Unprofessionally professional.
You could drill holes in the trays (somewhat like the welding table ) and put pins in order to feed the material perfectly straight every time
Will,
Try about three or five stacked slices of soft white bread through the rolling mill. Should come out very thin (duh) and rock hard. Probably hard enough for knife handle material (but too thin would be my guess). Maybe thin white spacers?
On another note: I’m happy to see you making use of the old shop! Wonderful that it is not just sitting there gathering dust.
That red “doo dad” on top in a “double cardan joint”.
Not to "um technically" you but, technically that is just a double U-joint system as it does not have the center yoke, and the joints are not aligned going in and out.
@@devoncanfield2058 Both of you are correct, a U-Joint (Universal-Joint) is sometimes called a cardan-joint, hooke-joint, spicer joint or cross joint. In this case its a just two cardan joints bolted together, with an offset of 45 degrees (they can baisicly be at any offset angle, it only chanches the rotational variances.)
@@constantins.2981 a double cardon joint specifically refers to a double joint with a common center yoke and carrier. That allows the input side to match the parabolic speed of the output, which reduced vibrations within the assembly. That doesn't maintain a common speed within the input and output. An offset double joint system does not reduce these vibrations, but it does reduce the parabolic speed difference from input to output.
Double cardon has matching parabolic speed difference, offset single joint has opposite parabolic speed difference, which is what's required for this assembly, where the top drum has to spin at the same continuous speed as the bottom.
You could make pasta with the rolling mill
Probably all it takes is to use food-safe oil.
would it stay the same width like the metal? .......for science!
Why though? Just use a food one.
Get your u-joints in phase! Sorry...first thing I noticed.
After rolling some hot steel for a while, roll a cheese sandwich through for an exactly sized grilled cheese.
I miss the vide of you guys as a team... so fun, but I am glad to see the shop in great hands.
Flat a rubber duck (squeaky one).
You beat me to it... I'm sure Marty wouldn't mind if Will "borrows" one of his toys, right?
Will your videos are a delight to the senses (:
Straight to the point and extremely interesting content
thank you
That is the best reason to do maintenance on a machine.
I'd actually do all the maintenance on schedule like I'm supposed to if I could find precision metal (or something else valuable) in it while breaking it down, cleaning and rebuilding
The complications arising from having a machine that works in thirds of a mm and then trying to work those numbers back to decimalized inches but the standard way of dividing inches is using different highly composite numbers as the denominator instead of just sticking with single base is exactly why the French came up with the metric system.
Steel Wire Rope or cable, or heavy guage copper stranded wire. See how homogeneous it becomes when crushed at different temperatures
Glad to see you in alexes old shop. Love that place. And the power hammerhead shark.
Great job guys. Thank you 😊
Makes sense the machine is Italian, that what they used to make their pasta!
When I was a kid pressing pennies through a press with a pattern was popular. I would like to see a you roll a penny with a press pattern to stamp something "Stelter manufacturing" related.
Maybe you can get all the toothpaste out of the tube with the rolling mill.
It fills me with joy to see the shop go to you.
Looking forward to seeing what your products will be. 👍
To roll; an already dead squirrel......
Congratulations with the new machine 👍👍
Seems you forgot a spring in the large adjustment wheel, possibly you cut away just didn’t see it going back, I wouldn’t take it apart again as there are close tolerances on those parts and would look into replacing the oiler system they really need that lubrication every time you use it
Continued Success
Fabrizio
Fold a paper in half and run it through and see how many times you can fold it
What a tool!! So many ideas went through my head watching that! Definitely would love to see timascus round bar cut a coin off the end and roll that through. Timascus spear would get a lotta views i think. Enjoy!!
Bronze and brass should be interesting given that they work hardened. Can you get it through without cracking or crumbling?
The technical jargon is so over my head.😁
You mimick Alec perfectly! You have the mannerisms the look the talk everything down , Man just be yourself ! Your already awesome!
OMG I want one even more now
I reckon a cheep crescent wrench would be pretty cool to feed through you're rolling mill.
I think making some mokume-gane would be neat to see!
That's a nice thing!
Suggestion one: Add a motor and similar controller to the thickness wheel too. That would open up for som nice distal taper when you crank out long sharp things for the aspiring cutters out there.
Suggestion two: If you can't replace the rollers for home made ones with a preferred pattern... ... maybe try to screw on some makeshift add-on profiles? (rolling die?) Hmm... Distal taper and most of the profiling at a single, quick and very exact station?
Suggestion three: If #3 would work, shorter pieces could have a variable pattern spread on one turn of the mill. A nice feature when you produce shorter daggers with runes and other intriguing patterns pressed in to the blade.
Suggestion four: Roll something Mr Steele left behind.
Good video. Keep 'em coming!
A ballistic gel hand will of course be primo content.
Also, a second emergency stop button on the other side might be a good idea if it can feed from both directions. EStop is only useful if you can reach it.
From Billet to knife blank in just "one" step. Nice.
can't wait to see what you can do to various damascus patternsand if it's possible to combine metals using the roller
beautiful machine. make sure you add in safety guards and a couple of E-stops
From the last vid, the steak knife is a solid move. I was looking at your cheaper offerings and had no idea what the Japanese carving chisel thing was and had to google it.
I bought my own rolling mill as a silversmith and it saves a crazy amount of money not having to buy sheet goods.
I work at a machine shop that makes these exact “calanders” as they call them, some weighing up to 100,000 pounds, amazing machines when they get that large
Try wetting leather and embedding copper or brass wires and/or rivets at one go. Make your own bonded leather reinforced knife sheaths on the same machine that made the blanks. Also, Damascus leaf.
U just took all the good ideas away by making it appropriate lol hahah 😆
I have a confession to make. You said "we have to do" XYZ a lot of times but I actually didn't help at all. I'm sorry, I literally just watched you work the whole time.
😂
Bullets! Complete cartridges! (With or without the primer)
Looks like a perfect panini maker. Should try it.
You should absolutely feed a jam donut through the machine!
Will, you mentioned thin parts getting wavy, try phasing the cardan shaft, it should stop the waves.
my idea for the roller, a half-melted beer bottle, see if it can make a plate of glass without making a mess
Feed some of those mass produced trash tier knives you reviewed into it.
I wonder how clean of a mosaic damascus pattern you can get out of a mill like this. Maybe not for the initial welding process, but truing up patterns before tiling and perhaps the final ferry flip.
In my head, the even pressure applied throughout the bar would be useful. The stretching down the length might cause some distortion that should be taken into consideration pre-forge, though.
Depending on how wide the material is , you will have a crown in the material due to flex in the rolls. You should test how much deflection you get. Maybe .002"?
I've eaten black huels for 3 years now. What I recommend is adding creatine, whey protein, and fiber; if you planning on consuming a significant amount of it. Creatine helps with better hydration, the whey protein helps with a creamy melted ice cream consistency, and fiber to get it out the other end.
Do you have any recommended ratios to start off with? Like how much Whey protein vs how much fiber, etc..
@@eRogue7 it really depends on activity, gender, and age. I'm tall, moderately active, 26yo male, and I drink 2 huels per workday, in each one I add in this order: 7 ice cubes, 1 11oz chocolate premier protein box shake, 2.5 grams of creatine, 2 tsp of benefiber, 2 scoops of chocolate black huel, fill water up to the huel bottle mesh, and shake. I also eat a small amount of nuts, fruit, meat, and cheese; totaling 300cal. Additionally I drink 50 oz of water and 32 oz of lightly sweetened black tea. On weekends I usually eat Japanese, BBQ, and Mediterranean. I also take some multivitamins, and heart and joint supplements. I've developed this based on how my body responds to food, and you should obviously experiment to see what your body responds best to. A balanced diet requires variety, and your body will tell you what it needs.
Check the manual, but I don't think the two U-joints are clocked correctly. This would cause the top roller to speed up and slow down slightly 2x per revolution and I'd expect it to cause wavy bars. Look at the drive-shaft under a truck, that's how you want them lined up.
i mean you gooooooooottta feed a hotdog through there… for science
Aluminum cans, one at a time after being crushed down, then double them up without changing the roll thickness. See if they will form a billet 😁
I've seen a lot of people talking about the u-joints being out of phase. When it come to cars this is a bad thing but it's a machine. So at max rpms this thing does what 15 to 30 rpms, anymore than that would be scary with hot metal. So I doubt the vibrations are a factor. Now the inconsonant speed might be an issue but after watching them in use it doesn't look like that matters either. So thinking about it for a bit I would wager that it gives it better adjustability for wide/tall material. It still could be wrong and need to be in phase but I would not go changing it based on vehicle logic and would wait till they find literature on assembly and maintenance for it. They might have it already and it put together correctly.
When I saw those comments I was thinking the same thing.
Having them 45 or 90 degrees out of phase won't change the thickness om material you can run. In use, the angle of the center shaft is fixed compared to the input/output and the universal joints have to rotate through all possible angles so their phasing wont affect how far you can move the rollers (just their orientation at any given time). Personally I cannot see any reason why you wouldn't want a constant speed on the top roller matching the bottom one. I do however agree that vibrations are no issue for the low speed this runs at.
Feed a roll of bubble wrap through it
have you ever had a squeeze bottle / tube of something and you just couldn''t get the last little bits of product out? well, no more ^^
this is to say: stuff to feed through
- ketchup bottle (or other condiment of your choice)
- toothpaste
This is a rolling mill! It's a mill! That rolls stuff! lol
12:21 never had there been a more appropriate warning sticker.
That thing will grab your fingers or anything else you feed into it and crush it like nothing and keep pulling through
If you try to run a 50hz 3ph motor on 60hz it runs faster not slower. That's why in a VFD when you turn down the frequency it slows down. Otherwise to stop a vfd you would have to go to infinity hz.
A rolling mill is a very powerful tool and one of the most memorable things I remember being shown in college was a piece of steel with someone's finger prints in it. The unfortunate person was wearing gloves to handle hot steel and the rolling mill caught the gloves and pulled at least two fingers in with the steel. I don't understand the physics of why the finger prints were there in the steel, but they were. I would suggest that you have your electrician make an emergency stop that can be activated by a shoulder or thigh if someone gets pulled into the mill. That red button will be hard to hit with an extremity going through the mill. Also you should cover the shafts that transfer the power from the gear box. They rotate slow, but the power is considerable. The mill has limits on how much it can do per pass as you found out in the video. The rolls can break and you can score the rolls. Have fun and respect the power in that machine. It is deceiving, because of the slower speed.
Instead of having to remember the movement to rotation of the wheel, add a digital readout. Would not only add to consistent quality but improve production time