Bead forming is all fine and dandy, but I instantly saw this procedure for making kustom embossed lettering/script for things like tailgates, door panels firewalls, valve covers, etc..!
Came here the same thing! The only challenge I see is figuring out how to make a wide letter and not having it look like balloon letters. Thats where the backer piece might come in very handy, to flatten out the face of the letters.
@@savage6394 No dissing this video but yes, that is how it’s done. Not saying I’m an expert but I’ve replicated floor pans and such this way for a while. I’m just not good enough to make a vid like this LOL But I’ve been using hammers and dollies. Need to try the air hammer
In 100 years guys at car shows are gonna be saying " that's a Karl Fisher firewall, ain't seen one of those in 50 years" How fkn cool is that. Love your stuff man
I wouldn't say ripped off but i have used your ideas on my own car so many times, i live in Australia so ordering products off you is hard but your knowledge has saved me so many times with problems.
I would say that was a 150% successful. I love how you encourage people to use your ideas and even sell stuff inexpensively to help others out. Great channel.
Its funny cause I'm sick of the haters it's funny some one that can do something better then some one will bash that person but they started off like shitnor the ppl that bash some one on thier work but don't even know how to do it but still criticize some ones work
As many people have mentioned earlier in the comments, I would really love to see a video on how you weld up the holes from the form and finish those areas (hopefully with a minimum of warping or having to touch up the bead pattern by hand). That's the part that would kick my ass, for sure.
You should be stoked! Body by Fisher did it again. I've seen this morph from your early mdf form, which are still good in my mind. But you've "skinned a cat" with this evolution. And your gift to the community is priceless. I feel Helio deserves a shout out as well. He's stepped up your game, it's obvious.
My question exactly. Now you have to fill all the holes and grind with die grinder both sides of the sheet metal. I guess it's better than removing the floor pan or firewall.
Couldn't you use a real strong electromagnetic force to clamp the forms together instead of drilling holes? Make it work from a small low voltage DC magnet like they use for automatic fire alarm doors. It would jut take a small battery and an on and off switch to engage and release the magnets. No more holes needed.
I started building the same bit for the for the air hammer to do a 1" bead to match a 80s Nissan floor pan. I was just going to weld a 1" round steel bar on the end of a bit and round it off with a grinder. I was using aircraft plywood for the form with a hundred wood screws holding it together so it would stay flat. The good news is now I don't have to. I now have a better way, I can just buy one that I know will work. Thanks man. Now if only there were a way to build a laser cutter out of crap I got laying around the garage.
Wow, just wow! This is steel sheet you're forming, yes? I'm amazed at the beauty of the finished product! For series production, you could put one or more of those air hammers on a simple xyz cnc table and churn thode suckers out. I'm getting into sheet work out of necessity, as my 2008 Peugeot 308 needs some rusted panels fabbed and installed, plus about a million other projects. MAN, I love being divorced and retired! Regards from the West coast of Jutland!
As i always say, you're a metal wizard, and it's amazing what you come up with in your brain on the fly. I'm not even a metal worker, but I really enjoy watching the process.
I love the way your mind works. I get excited with you like I’m out in my garage loving life. Keep running in to problems scratch that keep running in to solutions. Your in your flow.
I want to buy the original bead rolled firewall if you'll sell it. This is an awesome tool, looking forward to buying one! This channel has been huge to me learning, I've been around classic cars and body shops my whole life, took welding classes at a vocational school, welded as a career for a few years, but custom metal shaping had always seemed like something that was unattainable because I didnt have someone to tutor me or a way to learn (at least that was the excuse I made). This channel has changed all of that for me! Keep up the awesome work!
Oh man, another genius idea from the mind of Japhands! Love Elio's response to the test run, "(quite) Wow!" Best part is it won't wear out or distort like a MDF/wooden buck would after multiple uses/passes! Incredible results! Go Japhands, keep moving forward!
You could try with only the middle metal plate between 2 mdf sheets.. The middle one is the one giving the nice edge, bottom one is not really used cause you don't go far enough to touch it and top plate is basically a guide. If the mdf is strong enough to hold the panel straight, you will save a lot of material, (money for your kits), weight for shipping etc ... if it work people can basically use the matal laser cut part they receive to cut the mdf with a router and a copying bit. Just my product designer mind trying to push the project further :)
A pleasant brain shart. You think it'll turn out a certain way but ends up being more than you expected. I'm envisioning a firewall with a center bowtie 🤘😎
Wow Carl! I just did this exact thing to make a new panel before my 73 Firebird. The panel goes between the back seat and the trunk. I also used 1/4" steel plates, laser cut with the X profile I wanted. Did it about 3 weeks ago. It worked perfectly!! I'd send you pics but I don't know how to attach them to one of these comments
Love your work and the channel. Amazing stuff. Had an idea on how to control the depth at the intersections. Make the air hammer bit ride on top of the 1/4 inch form, instead of inside the bead. That way when you get to an intersection, the bit can’t go past the prescribed depth. Just make sure that the bolts that hold the whole thing together, don’t interfere with creating the bead.
Ok here goes... IM SURE YOU ALREADY THOUGHT OF THIS, I thought of it when you pointed out the "bottoming out" in the center of the "X". For consistency, I'm sure you could develop a depth gauge that attaches to the gun before the spring goes on.
It really looks great. The only negative I see is all the drill holes. On your car copper rivet plugs in those holes would look killer. Always waiting on more
I absolutely love this idea. I have been watching these videos and taking notes for my future projects on my channel. I have a 30 model a coupe that I will need to make floors for and a 48 COE ramp truck project that will also need a floor. I have always loved that X style in panels. Whenever you come out with this kit I will be buying one for sure!! I also make custom fiberglass panels for Corvettes I rebuild. I would love to flow form beads into panels to use as molds to make custom fiberglass floor pieces for my projects. I can see your gears turning in your head and you got mine going as well!! Keep up the awesome work. I love the channel brother!
The way you take a concept and transform it into pure mechanical, wow!!! Sheer bloody brilliance mate... I would like ro see fitzee using a couple of your homemade tools, i'm sure he would appreciate he simplicity... Mate love borh your channels always good content. Cheers from down under...
30:13 wow! That’s perfect. Something like this never comes around. Nothing like this exists anywhere. Very nice! It quick and easy to assemble and ya get a completely custom finish no one can match.
Karl! I will always love your channel and remain subbed forever! It hurts me to say that I've missed most of your videos since my dad passed last November. He really was the anchor for me watching regularly. I will catch up, I learn so much even just observing you here. Man, you are such a down to earth guy and I love how you share things! Your passion is infectious brother!!!Thanks for all you do and the inspiration that you are! Also, a High honorable mention to Elio (did I spell his name right?) He's brilliant & cool!!!
Great transition to a fantastic tool I wondered if a male end welded to the hammer bit "bolt" then female plastic screwed on would be easier for those without lathe or heat. Fantastic it worked so well.
Fantastic result Karl. I was of the same thought after seeing you make the rounded air chisel tip a few video ago. I had thought of using a metal form recess even out of Aluminium plate for the edge form and then MDF lower form. MDF upper and Lower plate to act as a stop. I think the Delrin or Nylon rod tip is the key of your tool. The polymer tip being just hard enough without being too tough to marr up the sheet steel panel.
Dude!! That’s super cool. All of the stuff is stretching metal, your buck and air hammer setup sets up some fantastic control to keep everything square!!
That's cool! I like the idea of that "X" being just a part of a pattern. Making a "T, and other common shapes in small sizes and just piece together some nice custom beaded panel. Also a good idea from another comment about keeping the inner cutouts to be able to create different paths.
Hi Carl, I enjoy watching your creativity on the fly. The enthusiasm is contagious. That you make small tooling for the rest of us to buy is really great. Just love the work both you and Elio do. Stay safe guys.
Hi Karl (and team), this is awesome. As I mentioned to you a while back on email - I had my steel jigs made here in South Africa to help me fabricate new floor plates for my F250 project, based on the wooden ones which were not that successful for me. A bead roller cost and to import replacement floor parts from USA was too costly. I can send you pics of my test run -.... now I just need to learn how to dial in my small gasless MIG to close up holes. But I further see the holes do not need to be so close and as many as I have in my design. I truly am honored to learn these things form you.
I used a hammer flat head, welded to - A tapered cap screw head which I cut off and "rounded", then welded this onto the flat head portion of the hammer shaft as purchased.
Hell ya i had that idea after i watched one of your videos with using mdf a year or two ago i just never got to doing anything with it to buisy with work and always seems like something happens before i can start a project and it never gets done lol good to see it works!!!!! Thanks for the video!!!!!
Well done Carl it looks amazing the finish is great, just a bit of brain storming and hard work yield results. Just a bit of friendly advice when hammering into the cross sections use a sharply texta it will highlight your progress. Cheers great stuff guys.
This looks awesome. Few ideas to improve. If you weld the 2 back plates together it would be one less moving part. Then oversize the full plate holes and weld nuts in it. All this would make for an easy self holding top screwed jig. Also, I would try to make one open end channel, bridged the other side to keep the shape. Or even both end open. That would make this modular. You bolt one 6" section, form it out, then move everything inline and continue to form along the original to make it 10”-12". So no need to make 4"-6"-8" linear, just one half that you move around. Would double the process but male it more versatile.
I love what you're doing very inspiring.What you could do with your backing plate is to thread the holes in the backing plate so you don't need the nuts on the back of your studs.
Dude this is innovative and it couldn't have come at a better time because I just cut the rear wall out of and old truck im building and had been trying to figure out a way to reinforce the new wall. Im excited for you the finished product is unreal ! Thanks MIK
Super cool idea Karl - you may want to patent it before someone else does.... The result of just the test looks awesome. I had to watch the second half of the vid twice to notice the wood form was just for the outer flange. Anyone with a plasma/laser/flow table could easily make an infinite number of tooling patterns.
Karl, I love the way your mind works! You're also a natural at teaching. One thought I had is for the bits. What if you just tapped the bit itself and make the tips out of the 4140 with the delrin attached. That way you could just make one bit but the tips could unscrew and attach a new one (or different profile/size) and make as a set? Also, the forms could maybe be made of that thick plastic (don't know the name of it) that way its cheaper to make and especially to ship. The possibilities are endless!
Ken White, of tinmantech has been offering these tips used in flow forming, for awhile now. Basically an air hammer tip, with an assortment of replaceable plastic/rubber tips of different densities, for use in various metalforming applications.
I Like !!! You could CNC a signature profile you can just in situ add to any car you customised. Simple is genius and this is so simple. I love watching the process of this thing happening, all the way from nothing is certain, to will you look at that ! It really is flowing. It's almost like you're blowing up a balloon. You just gently let it sag into shape, 'cause the biggest risk is overdoing it. And it staying so flat is a nice bonus. Beautiful !!
Good job, this method was one of the reasons i bought a plasmatable. You can trust a steeledge holding its shape. This is the most fun part of metalshaping
That is AWESOME !!. I want to do that. ! , I'm a retired aircraft mechanic. Sheet metal, and structures is my love. I'm going to try it. With my 3x rivet gun . Thanks.
DOOOOOOOOOOOD! Man that turned out killer. Great work! 😊 If you're going to machine these, maybe a radius on the top side of the piece you're working through to help avoid damaging the delrin bit. Although for what you're achieving here a little delriin button being a consumable is totally fine.
This is excelent. You don't sound like you know but you just created an open source project! When time comes I will see if I can use this to reces a 10x10" square.
If you decide to go full production with this idea in the future, recess the Deleon into the steel part of the air hammer bit. Will keep the work piece centered and will take the stress off the edges of the delrin, which will help it last longer and possibly help to avoid that chipping a bit
Hey Karl, In aerospace we have a punch type dye that accepts softer delron material that we use for a similar action. Mainly to drive out hi-lock type fasteners that is already machined for a rivet gun. This allows us to use a replaceable piece of delron to not mark up aluminum surfaces. I can provide you a picture if you would like let me know. We have them with aluminum and delron inserts. I did a very crude version of this to put some beads in my floors.
Hey, I'm going to tackle a pop top roof for a 69 ford econoline. If the bottom pieces had an open end, you'd have the ability to slide the jig and make a full run on the roof. Thank you, this is a huge solution!
Nice work, came out great, but not a new process. Also the delrin air bit you made is already on the market for setting rivets. I've had one in my drawer for many years for doing this same flow forming. Look up "nylon rivet set".
Thanks so much for literally banging out this vid. I have many sheets of Nylon acrylic I want to try this on. I would like to see you also try it. Would save big time on shipping, and rust proofing for your items.
This is killer Karl. Ive found pre strecthing for a bead like that to be pretty difficult...its always fussing afrerwards to get it flat. That thing is like glass!!!
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
Bead forming is all fine and dandy, but I instantly saw this procedure for making kustom embossed lettering/script for things like tailgates, door panels firewalls, valve covers, etc..!
Came here the same thing! The only challenge I see is figuring out how to make a wide letter and not having it look like balloon letters. Thats where the backer piece might come in very handy, to flatten out the face of the letters.
Yes!
@@savage6394
No dissing this video but yes, that is how it’s done. Not saying I’m an expert but I’ve replicated floor pans and such this way for a while. I’m just not good enough to make a vid like this LOL
But I’ve been using hammers and dollies. Need to try the air hammer
I suspect I'll be making some motocross shinguards like this, too.
you make people who are not interested in metal shaping want to get interested in the hobby
In 100 years guys at car shows are gonna be saying " that's a Karl Fisher firewall, ain't seen one of those in 50 years"
How fkn cool is that. Love your stuff man
But what do you do with all the holes you put in it? If you weld them shut what happens to the panel?
You guys are the beading edge of metalwork.
I wouldn't say ripped off but i have used your ideas on my own car so many times, i live in Australia so ordering products off you is hard but your knowledge has saved me so many times with problems.
I would say that was a 150% successful. I love how you encourage people to use your ideas and even sell stuff inexpensively to help others out. Great channel.
I love how you are getting more confortable on the camera and letting your humor get flushed out. You guys are rocking it out of the park.
Its funny cause I'm sick of the haters it's funny some one that can do something better then some one will bash that person but they started off like shitnor the ppl that bash some one on thier work but don't even know how to do it but still criticize some ones work
Keep your inside cutouts. You can weld tabs on them and bolt them back in to block off certain paths and create different patterns.
As many people have mentioned earlier in the comments, I would really love to see a video on how you weld up the holes from the form and finish those areas (hopefully with a minimum of warping or having to touch up the bead pattern by hand). That's the part that would kick my ass, for sure.
I've done some panels this way and have had no problems with warping when I welded the holes with a mig welder
Copper backing when filling holes.
@theupscriber65 came to post the copper/bronze/brass backer makes it waaay easier and way cleaner to fill em
So as soon as I buy a CNC plasma cutter I will try this.
@@BrianFluryArcDroid 👍
You should be stoked! Body by Fisher did it again. I've seen this morph from your early mdf form, which are still good in my mind. But you've "skinned a cat" with this evolution.
And your gift to the community is priceless.
I feel Helio deserves a shout out as well. He's stepped up your game, it's obvious.
that looks amazing , my question ,what about the holes you drilled on the fire wall
Weld 'em up.
Exactly, got to weld that lot back up now . Failed !!
@@kernowskunkworksHow's it a fail, he always intended on welding the holes back up, quick hit with a DA and you'd be none the wiser.
My question exactly.
Now you have to fill all the holes and grind with die grinder both sides of the sheet metal.
I guess it's better than removing the floor pan or firewall.
Couldn't you use a real strong electromagnetic force to clamp the forms together instead of drilling holes?
Make it work from a small low voltage DC magnet like they use for automatic fire alarm doors. It would jut take a small battery and an on and off switch to engage and release the magnets.
No more holes needed.
I started building the same bit for the for the air hammer to do a 1" bead to match a 80s Nissan floor pan. I was just going to weld a 1" round steel bar on the end of a bit and round it off with a grinder. I was using aircraft plywood for the form with a hundred wood screws holding it together so it would stay flat. The good news is now I don't have to. I now have a better way, I can just buy one that I know will work. Thanks man. Now if only there were a way to build a laser cutter out of crap I got laying around the garage.
You could weld different size ball bearings to air chisels to have an assortment of bead roll sizes
yes , cheaper and easier then owning a heap of woodworking tools and lathes , i call thumbs up for your idea !
that is badass.... I need something like that for my race car production..... Very good young man !
Wow, just wow! This is steel sheet you're forming, yes? I'm amazed at the beauty of the finished product! For series production, you could put one or more of those air hammers on a simple xyz cnc table and churn thode suckers out.
I'm getting into sheet work out of necessity, as my 2008 Peugeot 308 needs some rusted panels fabbed and installed, plus about a million other projects.
MAN, I love being divorced and retired!
Regards from the West coast of Jutland!
Fantastic video! I love the way you did it!
Have you tried using double-sided tape instead of making holes in the metal sheet?
Greetings from Mexico
As i always say, you're a metal wizard, and it's amazing what you come up with in your brain on the fly. I'm not even a metal worker, but I really enjoy watching the process.
Very cool! Add your Japhands logo in flowform to the floor of your car! 🤯
I love the way your mind works. I get excited with you like I’m out in my garage loving life. Keep running in to problems scratch that keep running in to solutions. Your in your flow.
I want to buy the original bead rolled firewall if you'll sell it.
This is an awesome tool, looking forward to buying one! This channel has been huge to me learning, I've been around classic cars and body shops my whole life, took welding classes at a vocational school, welded as a career for a few years, but custom metal shaping had always seemed like something that was unattainable because I didnt have someone to tutor me or a way to learn (at least that was the excuse I made). This channel has changed all of that for me! Keep up the awesome work!
Oh man, another genius idea from the mind of Japhands! Love Elio's response to the test run, "(quite) Wow!" Best part is it won't wear out or distort like a MDF/wooden buck would after multiple uses/passes! Incredible results! Go Japhands, keep moving forward!
You could try with only the middle metal plate between 2 mdf sheets.. The middle one is the one giving the nice edge, bottom one is not really used cause you don't go far enough to touch it and top plate is basically a guide. If the mdf is strong enough to hold the panel straight, you will save a lot of material, (money for your kits), weight for shipping etc ...
if it work people can basically use the matal laser cut part they receive to cut the mdf with a router and a copying bit.
Just my product designer mind trying to push the project further :)
A pleasant brain shart. You think it'll turn out a certain way but ends up being more than you expected. I'm envisioning a firewall with a center bowtie 🤘😎
Wow Carl! I just did this exact thing to make a new panel before my 73 Firebird. The panel goes between the back seat and the trunk. I also used 1/4" steel plates, laser cut with the X profile I wanted. Did it about 3 weeks ago. It worked perfectly!! I'd send you pics but I don't know how to attach them to one of these comments
I liked the result so much I think I'm going to use my same X-dies to make a similar panel for my firewall.
Love your work and the channel. Amazing stuff. Had an idea on how to control the depth at the intersections. Make the air hammer bit ride on top of the 1/4 inch form, instead of inside the bead. That way when you get to an intersection, the bit can’t go past the prescribed depth. Just make sure that the bolts that hold the whole thing together, don’t interfere with creating the bead.
Ok here goes... IM SURE YOU ALREADY THOUGHT OF THIS, I thought of it when you pointed out the "bottoming out" in the center of the "X".
For consistency, I'm sure you could develop a depth gauge that attaches to the gun before the spring goes on.
So great to see this success! I remember in the class in Vegas you were trying to figure this out.
Ya! This is the best way I think now.
It really looks great. The only negative I see is all the drill holes. On your car copper rivet plugs in those holes would look killer. Always waiting on more
Just use some brass or copper as a backer and weld em up
I absolutely love this idea. I have been watching these videos and taking notes for my future projects on my channel. I have a 30 model a coupe that I will need to make floors for and a 48 COE ramp truck project that will also need a floor. I have always loved that X style in panels. Whenever you come out with this kit I will be buying one for sure!!
I also make custom fiberglass panels for Corvettes I rebuild. I would love to flow form beads into panels to use as molds to make custom fiberglass floor pieces for my projects. I can see your gears turning in your head and you got mine going as well!! Keep up the awesome work. I love the channel brother!
The way you take a concept and transform it into pure mechanical, wow!!! Sheer bloody brilliance mate... I would like ro see fitzee using a couple of your homemade tools, i'm sure he would appreciate he simplicity... Mate love borh your channels always good content.
Cheers from down under...
To reduce size of air hammer bit…. Chuck up shaft, “mount” air angle grinder on tool holder and let it rip. Accurate enough for this application
I’m digging your hero hair! Master fabricator! 4:09
30:13 wow! That’s perfect. Something like this never comes around. Nothing like this exists anywhere. Very nice! It quick and easy to assemble and ya get a completely custom finish no one can match.
Wow this is awesome ! I can’t believe how flat it stayed and the crisp edges.
Karl! I will always love your channel and remain subbed forever! It hurts me to say that I've missed most of your videos since my dad passed last November. He really was the anchor for me watching regularly. I will catch up, I learn so much even just observing you here. Man, you are such a down to earth guy and I love how you share things! Your passion is infectious brother!!!Thanks for all you do and the inspiration that you are! Also, a High honorable mention to Elio (did I spell his name right?) He's brilliant & cool!!!
Sorry for you loss! And thanks for the support. Elio is correct!
@@MakeItKustom Right on my friend!
You have the best hot rod fab channel on any platform. You are an international treasure for actual hot rodders.
Never stop learning which helps to expand your capabilities. Nice tool work, dude.
Wow sir I am 63 been doing this thing for a long time, you are so impressive. My hats off.
Absolutely exceptional guys!
Great transition to a fantastic tool I wondered if a male end welded to the hammer bit "bolt" then female plastic screwed on would be easier for those without lathe or heat.
Fantastic it worked so well.
Fantastic result Karl.
I was of the same thought after seeing you make the rounded air chisel tip a few video ago.
I had thought of using a metal form recess even out of Aluminium plate for the edge form and then MDF lower form.
MDF upper and Lower plate to act as a stop.
I think the Delrin or Nylon rod tip is the key of your tool.
The polymer tip being just hard enough without being too tough to marr up the sheet steel panel.
Dude!! That’s super cool. All of the stuff is stretching metal, your buck and air hammer setup sets up some fantastic control to keep everything square!!
That's cool! I like the idea of that "X" being just a part of a pattern. Making a "T, and other common shapes in small sizes and just piece together some nice custom beaded panel.
Also a good idea from another comment about keeping the inner cutouts to be able to create different paths.
that is too cool. I am not a sheet metal guy but this looks fool proof enough that I might be able to pull it off.
Hi Carl, I enjoy watching your creativity on the fly. The enthusiasm is contagious. That you make small tooling for the rest of us to buy is really great. Just love the work both you and Elio do. Stay safe guys.
Hi Karl (and team), this is awesome. As I mentioned to you a while back on email - I had my steel jigs made here in South Africa to help me fabricate new floor plates for my F250 project, based on the wooden ones which were not that successful for me. A bead roller cost and to import replacement floor parts from USA was too costly. I can send you pics of my test run -.... now I just need to learn how to dial in my small gasless MIG to close up holes. But I further see the holes do not need to be so close and as many as I have in my design. I truly am honored to learn these things form you.
I used a hammer flat head, welded to - A tapered cap screw head which I cut off and "rounded", then welded this onto the flat head portion of the hammer shaft as purchased.
What a nifty idea. Very well done and fun to watch. All the best.
great job Guyz, Love it when you said I don't need a Pullmax now. lol 🤘
You have some great machines. I am where you were in the beginning. Your genius is your love of experimenting!
Hell ya i had that idea after i watched one of your videos with using mdf a year or two ago i just never got to doing anything with it to buisy with work and always seems like something happens before i can start a project and it never gets done lol good to see it works!!!!! Thanks for the video!!!!!
Well done Carl it looks amazing the finish is great, just a bit of brain storming and hard work yield results. Just a bit of friendly advice when hammering into the cross sections use a sharply texta it will highlight your progress. Cheers great stuff guys.
Such a great thing! Really gets the brain gears moving.
Another great day 🎉
The other thing is you dont need a cnc to cut those hammer forms can be done with grinder & hole saws and good set files
Wow. Perfecting your skill with better ad better (self made) tools is pretty impressive.
You make such good content, these diy without fancy tools are my favorite.
THANK You I always learn from You 👍
Boom! You guys are doing great with the air chisel line of tooling!
This looks awesome. Few ideas to improve.
If you weld the 2 back plates together it would be one less moving part. Then oversize the full plate holes and weld nuts in it.
All this would make for an easy self holding top screwed jig.
Also, I would try to make one open end channel, bridged the other side to keep the shape. Or even both end open.
That would make this modular. You bolt one 6" section, form it out, then move everything inline and continue to form along the original to make it 10”-12". So no need to make 4"-6"-8" linear, just one half that you move around. Would double the process but male it more versatile.
Carl, I enjoy the way your brain works. What an awesome concept
Great job on the bead maker. Fantastic concept. Endless possibilities. Be safe and stay well.
I love what you're doing very inspiring.What you could do with your backing plate is to thread the holes in the backing plate so you don't need the nuts on the back of your studs.
Suggestion, double up on the top plate , so the bit is less likely to jump out. Assuming thats how it got damaged. You could also harden the tips.
5:28 pure genius hard at work. I think ideas like this is what makes the world great!
Well done Karl. You're on another level when it comes to fabricating. Take care.
Dude this is innovative and it couldn't have come at a better time because I just cut the rear wall out of and old truck im building and had been trying to figure out a way to reinforce the new wall. Im excited for you the finished product is unreal ! Thanks MIK
Super cool idea Karl - you may want to patent it before someone else does.... The result of just the test looks awesome. I had to watch the second half of the vid twice to notice the wood form was just for the outer flange.
Anyone with a plasma/laser/flow table could easily make an infinite number of tooling patterns.
You are so talented! I admire the way you solve problems.
Karl, I love the way your mind works! You're also a natural at teaching. One thought I had is for the bits. What if you just tapped the bit itself and make the tips out of the 4140 with the delrin attached. That way you could just make one bit but the tips could unscrew and attach a new one (or different profile/size) and make as a set? Also, the forms could maybe be made of that thick plastic (don't know the name of it) that way its cheaper to make and especially to ship. The possibilities are endless!
Ken White, of tinmantech has been offering these tips used in flow forming, for awhile now. Basically an air hammer tip, with an assortment of replaceable plastic/rubber tips of different densities, for use in various metalforming applications.
@ericpetz5831 Ken passed away in May and the website is no longer active. Really sad because they had great products.
I Like !!! You could CNC a signature profile you can just in situ add to any car you customised. Simple is genius and this is so simple. I love watching the process of this thing happening, all the way from nothing is certain, to will you look at that ! It really is flowing. It's almost like you're blowing up a balloon. You just gently let it sag into shape, 'cause the biggest risk is overdoing it. And it staying so flat is a nice bonus. Beautiful !!
Good job, this method was one of the reasons i bought a plasmatable. You can trust a steeledge holding its shape. This is the most fun part of metalshaping
6:15 THATS AWESOME ‼️this is why this channel is the very best!
What a slick idea!!
That is AWESOME !!. I want to do that. ! , I'm a retired aircraft mechanic. Sheet metal, and structures is my love. I'm going to try it. With my 3x rivet gun
. Thanks.
DOOOOOOOOOOOD!
Man that turned out killer. Great work! 😊
If you're going to machine these, maybe a radius on the top side of the piece you're working through to help avoid damaging the delrin bit. Although for what you're achieving here a little delriin button being a consumable is totally fine.
I dig watching your mind at work. Brilliant solution.
Literally took 1/100th of the time of the other hammer form. Great!
This is excelent. You don't sound like you know but you just created an open source project! When time comes I will see if I can use this to reces a 10x10" square.
This is brilliant. I’m going to try this out. Perfect final firewall.
saved in my metal working list. Might even subscribe... decided yes. Now lets see one for open back louvers... that is the one I want to make.
If you decide to go full production with this idea in the future, recess the Deleon into the steel part of the air hammer bit. Will keep the work piece centered and will take the stress off the edges of the delrin, which will help it last longer and possibly help to avoid that chipping a bit
Found Cornfield last month and have been binge watching his channel.
Sweet new tool and fresh ideas to age old metal working! I'll take the first model a floor pan tool!
That turned out killer! This is definitely something the backyard guys can do. Any plans for the caddy in the near future?
Look it forward to see the new tooling on the bead rolling . 😊
Hey Karl, In aerospace we have a punch type dye that accepts softer delron material that we use for a similar action. Mainly to drive out hi-lock type fasteners that is already machined for a rivet gun. This allows us to use a replaceable piece of delron to not mark up aluminum surfaces. I can provide you a picture if you would like let me know. We have them with aluminum and delron inserts. I did a very crude version of this to put some beads in my floors.
Hey, I'm going to tackle a pop top roof for a 69 ford econoline. If the bottom pieces had an open end, you'd have the ability to slide the jig and make a full run on the roof. Thank you, this is a huge solution!
That’s ingenious, nice job
You always do awesome work man your brain goes a million miles a hour 👍
Nice work, came out great, but not a new process. Also the delrin air bit you made is already on the market for setting rivets. I've had one in my drawer for many years for doing this same flow forming. Look up "nylon rivet set".
Sweet tool. Keep it going.
Perfect!
Do simple a single bead for the floor and move it along
Great job explaining everything as your rolling along, keep up the good work!
I'm so impressed , and it worked the first time ! Thank You
That's a cool and interesting way to form it! Good for repetition
That is cutting edge work right there! Thanks guys!
That worked out extremely well, great job.
Thanks so much for literally banging out this vid. I have many sheets of Nylon acrylic I want to try this on. I would like to see you also try it. Would save big time on shipping, and rust proofing for your items.
This is killer Karl. Ive found pre strecthing for a bead like that to be pretty difficult...its always fussing afrerwards to get it flat. That thing is like glass!!!
Super cool idea
The shapes are as endless as the imagination!
Thanks!