I use sealers on all the old cars I do. Already learned my lesson on paint reactions. On an overall paint job I sometimes use the Speedokote 1 k sealer and it leaves a nice smooth surface for the paint to bond to. I go over the surface and tack it if I feel any dust, I hit it with one of those sanding pads lightly. Current job is a 65 Corvair that had the original single stage on it. What a work out this car is giving me!
I've had my share of old paint wrinkle on me thats a mess. Sometimes on an overall I just go ahead and primer it. To avoid sealer. Appreciate the support brother!
If you are doing an old car don't waste your time painting over the old paint! You are asking for trouble and if you are a business you will get a bad reputation. Just strip all the old paint off. It's not that hard to do the job correctly! I don't paint over old paint or other people's body work!
@@MAn-ti3ul if its old lacquer or single stage sure. And its a lot of work stripping a car down to bare metal. Been at it for days now. Then epoxy, then primer and blocking, then i'm still going to seal it...
@@BearBudgetgarage If you think stripping a car to bare metal is hard work you shouldn't be working on old cars! With the correct tools you can have a car stripped in a day or two. If you sandblast it you will be done in less than a day! If you are just going over the old paint that shouldn't take you more than a week to complete.
@@MAn-ti3ul No sand blaster, no aircraft stripper left over from the 1980's, and yep, it's taking a bit of time. And that means I shouldn't be doing it? Well, you must be right, because you seem like a guy who knows everything...all this free advice nobody asks for... How do you find time to get any work done?
Great upload Sir! I am just the regular diy guy trying to get away with murder, I guess, compared to a pro painter. I do it this way: ' Clean your surface with bathroom cleaner and Scotch brite. Sand with 600 grit. Clean with window cleaner. Clean with water. Dry the water off with paper. Add primer. 4 layers. Then paint. Lol. Pinstripe on the background paint. Add nitrocellulose lacquer. 3 layers. But as you may understand, I look at this to learn even more. And before even adding primer is where I am cheating. But this video helps! Thx!
Good video. I've just got back to spraying again and I always miss out a few crucial steps with my sand papers. Never rush and always double check your work before primer. Tommorow I will have to sand so much primer 😅😅
Excellent highlighting the wrong approach to fixing dents useing to much bondo. also your good at highlighting the basics were diy self go wrong including myself. Great
New sub! Great video and i am glad the mention on the grits, because i have been often confused as to what i need.. going to be doing an diy on my car next week
Great video as always. The cubitron II is awesome nice to see you using it. I love the uniform scratch. If you use any on the DA I noticed the vacuum hole hook and loop is way better than the mesh. The mesh on the DA seems to get its edges deformed and the amount of actual abrasive on the disk is less due to the mesh. The vacuum performance is great with just the holed disk. I imagine doing a few panels per job they would last you a while after hand blocking it out to 180-240! Thanks for the video Chris.
@@GarageNoise They did go up and price a little bit lately, especially the 80 grit for whatever reason. But the difference with how long they last over the mesh is crazy! In my experience on body work or cabinet making it is four to one. They also sell a mini interface pad designed for the cubitron mesh paper and Mirka's auto net so it doesn't destroy your velcro by contacting the surface while sanding through the mesh. It's so thin, it remains hard and doesn't really interfere like a normal interface pad would going over high spots. I think they call them pad protectors and I just been keeping mine on even if I'm not using a mesh. Thanks for the channel Chris.
Early on in the video you talk about the importance of sanding up to 320 grit. And if you don’t, the materials will shrink in the sun and anything courser than 320 grit will show through. I had a weird situation where I put a wheel well on a rusted pick up truck about 15 years ago. Instead of my usual welding, I was experimenting with Eastwood’s blind rivet and panel adhesive. I thought it would prevent rust at the seam. Years later, I noticed you could see almost perfectly where the wheel arch replacement panel and original body sheet metal met. In addition to that, You could see where each rivet was perfectly. What would’ve caused that? I usually wet sand up to 1000 grit before shooting Paint. It looked great for years.
Was it black? I've seen that same type of situation on one of my repair in the past. Not a good feeling. My only explanation was filler shrinkage. Back then I used cheap body filler and paid the price. Quality products really make a difference but sometimes you don't know how well a product works until unfortunately it shrinks. I'm not sayong you used cheap filler but shrinkage can be a big problem even if you do everything right!
Great information sir..." Can I ask a question sir...I'm using r500lvlp 1.3 tips...can spray primer and make it dry sand 600grits sir...I'm using 50L tank 3hp air compressor....can I ...
Primer is a heavy body surface it requires a deep scratch a 220 grit scratch for good adhesion anything further than that will distort your body work and the poor adhesion to the filler it needs this for a mechanical grip to the service
220 is fine, I perfer 320 that's just a preference. I would not recommend primer over 180 tho too coarse in my experience. 320 is sufficient for mechanical adhesion. Always refer to the technical data sheet for the product your using. 👍
Coming from woodworking it’s hard to wrap my brain around a 320 scratch for primer. I was always taught the bigger the scratch the better the grab. I see new vehicles with paint falling off in chunks and can’t help but think they need a bigger scratch. Gm vans have been falling off for years now I see white Hyundais with paint falling off.
Yeah I understand and for the most part that's true. The problem is the shrinking of the primer. All these primers shrink, if someone try's to say they don't it's just hype. Some guys feel it's ok to primer over 180 or 220 I've seen too many sand scratches in repairs from it. Including my own work! So I learn and adapt to mistakes to continually improve quality. Most manufacturers recommend to primer over 320 anyway. Sorry for the rant, sand scratches in a repair is a pet peeve of mine. it drives me nuts! 🤣 Hey , I appreciate the comment and support brother!
I wouldn't be afraid of a little peel in primer it's meant to be sanded smooth. I do have to use a 1.4 or 1.5 tip on my gun when I spay a 4:1:1 ratio . Appreciate the comment brother!
4:1:2 is the suggested sealer mix, but for the 2253, I've found that slow hardener and slow reducer with an extra splash of reducer gets it right for sealer application. For a primer, orange peel isn't a big deal since you want that high build anyway. Adjust the gun and your passes more
I realized I made an oopsie after I did it, so I was sanding a spoiler for my car and got carried away with sanding, I did not have 600 grit sand paper and skipped from 500 to 800 and then wet sanded it with 800 to finish off, that was before primer, I realized I was sanding like I was prepping for paint instead of primer, is it okay to apply primer after sanding with such fine grit?
Really like your videos a lot. Do you have any videos on what to do if you run into issues after you have finished your body work, like how to deal with pinholes found in body filler areas after primer? Or how to handle deep scratches in the body filler that were not filled by the high build primer? I’m a newbie at this body work and trying to learn how to handle mess ups after I’ve made them
Not sure where you found the Gunbudd but my man Tony sells them. I'm one of his oldest VIP's at Learnautobodyandpaint. I'm no pro but pretty well read so a couple others and I train newbies even if we're somewheat new ourselves. Did you buy any Atom guns? I gifted on away but I still have the tiny X16... Tony is a good man.
I so agree about the sealer in a garage environment. I had runs in mine and DID sand them out but I missed a few that I couldn't see. I see them now of course....
I watched Tony's channel early on. I knew this and the Atom guns are his products. I found it on Amazon. Was looking for a good alternative to lumii light. I like it , works well. I haven't tried the Atom guns. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
You can use primer if it's a direct to metal product. An easy way is a metal prep wipe or a aerosol of self etching primer. Just a light coat and your good to go.
Im painting a Silverado and have done tons of rust repair to get it where i need it.(First time painter) The truck is 4 different colors and it needs some good filler work done now to get it straight. would it be best for me seal it after knocking the paint down well with say 180 first before body filler? then after applying body filler and working it smooth i was gonna spray high build primer(block it to 400) before i lay my single stage paint. Does all this sound goos or do i have order of operations wrong?
What is recommended for a Good flexible primer sealer for plastic bumpers? I have the Seymour PBE Flexible Primer and SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer and they work GREAT! but im looking for Primer Sealers out of a can that I can use next... Either a 1k or 2k but definitely prefer a 2k can that either is activated by moisture in the air, or has a 2 part chamber system inside the can... Any recommendations!
Do you advise using sanding with 180 DA and then putting primer, the DA sander leaves a much smoother finish than using it with a blocker, Or should I even use 320 when using the DA sander also?
What brand of 600 DA sand paper are you using, any sand paper i used to make 320 scratches disappear, it was almost impossible, or you should use 4 sandpapers on each panel.
The brand I use is sunmight ceramic it's awesome for 600 amzn.to/3Zwunl4 For everthing else I use 3m cubitron 2 best I've found for price and durability
Interesting video Chris, I like using sealer as it gives a uniform colour to apply your base but the issue I often have is that I get dieback in the clear after it's fully cured, I'm not sure if dieback is the correct term but straight after applying the clear it looks great but the next day it looks textured like the sealer has pinched back but this only happens when using sealer, any suggestions to stop this would be appreciated👍John UK
I've had that happen too. The times it's happened to me I believe it was caused by applying may base a bit to soon and not giving sufficient enough flash time for the sealer. I don't know if you use a 2k sealer like I do. Just one possibility. Appreciate the comment and support!
Thanks for the reply Chris, yeah my sealer is 2K it's the Octoral PH254 non sanding primer and it happened a few days back, I checked the TDS again and it's possible I've been putting to much reducer in the mix, I normally do my sealer work later in the day so it has all night to cure, the Octoral has an open time for recoating of 48hours so there is no problem leaving it over night, thanks for the help.
Hi, could you give me a bit of help, I bought a car that has been repainted all under the hood area and it had a few chips in the paint so I started to repair it but then I found that the entire paint was just peeling off and had not stuck to the surface at all so I used a paint scraper and just remover every bit of the paint back to the original Black paint underneath as the car was originally Black but now I am wondering why the paint did not stick so I can do it again without the same problems. Can you give me any advice as to what to do now. Thanks.
Could be alot of reasons poor preparation, incompatible materials. You probably want to strip it and start from bare metal and use a direct to metal 2k primer or a etching primer than a 2k urethane primer. Follow the preparation work laid out in my video's and you should have no problems.
@@GarageNoise Ok thanks, I am using an epoxy primer this time and have sanded everything well so hopefully it will be better then what was done the last time.
What reducer do you use for your Upol 2253 ? Does it have to be a Upol product which I know would def need to be the product of choice, but can you use a different brand of urethane reducers? I don’t have any available in my area except Omni reducer.
Do I understand correctly that sealer is only to put over primer? My truck door has spray can wrong color on it . I’m thinking I should use a sealer over the wrong colors before the primer and base coat? Is that right?
You should remove that spray can paint off the door first then refinish the door with proper paint supplies. Covering it up with more products is just asking for more trouble!
@@GarageNoisei just used the shopline color match was really good. i cant tell a difference. it was my first time painting my only complaint is that i got tons of fish eye. I'm pretty upset since i spent hours prepping. on a good note i didint have any orange peel
How long can you leave primer on a vehicle before you paint? I have a 91 GMC 1500 I wanna redo in stages. Can I prime the bed and let it sit while I get the front end done and paint it all with car later or is there a window of time between primer and paint?
If it's not gonna be out in the elements than you can let it sit in 2k urethane primer for months but if you plan on having out in the elements whiles you gradually redo it ,then I would recommend using an epoxy primer. That can be in the elements and will hold up alot better until your ready to paint.
@@GarageNoise thanks for the info. The body is in great shape but the paint is shot. Got a couple of small dings but no damage. I plan to use the same color so I won't have to do the jambs. Really enjoy the videos!
@@GarageNoise which tip when you were spraying the sealer? 1.3 also? I’m about to spray for the first time DTM 2K high build urethane primer/sealer as a sealer reduced to 4-1-1, don’t know if I should use a 1.3 or 1.2 for sealer?
@wild8757 add more reducer and make sure to use slow hardener and slow reducer so it'll flow out more. It'll increase cure time slightly but not much since the sealer mil will be thinner. One wet coat should be enough
Paints and primers are “thinned” not “reduced”. This is bad English by Americans as expected . If you add thinners to a paint it is “thinned” not “reduced” , to reduce something means to lessen it , but the addition of a “solvent” actually increases the volume .
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I use sealers on all the old cars I do. Already learned my lesson on paint reactions. On an overall paint job I sometimes use the Speedokote 1 k sealer and it leaves a nice smooth surface for the paint to bond to. I go over the surface and tack it if I feel any dust, I hit it with one of those sanding pads lightly. Current job is a 65 Corvair that had the original single stage on it. What a work out this car is giving me!
I've had my share of old paint wrinkle on me thats a mess. Sometimes on an overall I just go ahead and primer it. To avoid sealer. Appreciate the support brother!
If you are doing an old car don't waste your time painting over the old paint! You are asking for trouble and if you are a business you will get a bad reputation. Just strip all the old paint off. It's not that hard to do the job correctly! I don't paint over old paint or other people's body work!
@@MAn-ti3ul if its old lacquer or single stage sure. And its a lot of work stripping a car down to bare metal. Been at it for days now. Then epoxy, then primer and blocking, then i'm still going to seal it...
@@BearBudgetgarage If you think stripping a car to bare metal is hard work you shouldn't be working on old cars! With the correct tools you can have a car stripped in a day or two. If you sandblast it you will be done in less than a day! If you are just going over the old paint that shouldn't take you more than a week to complete.
@@MAn-ti3ul No sand blaster, no aircraft stripper left over from the 1980's, and yep, it's taking a bit of time. And that means I shouldn't be doing it? Well, you must be right, because you seem like a guy who knows everything...all this free advice nobody asks for... How do you find time to get any work done?
Great upload Sir! I am just the regular diy guy trying to get away with murder, I guess, compared to a pro painter. I do it this way: ' Clean your surface with bathroom cleaner and Scotch brite. Sand with 600 grit. Clean with window cleaner. Clean with water. Dry the water off with paper. Add primer. 4 layers. Then paint. Lol. Pinstripe on the background paint. Add nitrocellulose lacquer. 3 layers. But as you may understand, I look at this to learn even more. And before even adding primer is where I am cheating. But this video helps! Thx!
👍
I'm repainting fiberglass body panels for a Formula Mazda. Great video showing how to apply and sand primer.
Thanks bud!
Excellent summation of the basics 👍
Thank you!
Dude you’re good at teaching I now know how shit my primer job was
Awesome! Thank you! Happy it was helpful brother.
Great informative video!. Thanks!. Love when you put link for all products you use as well as the gun settings. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Thank's Alex! Appreciate the comment and support!
Good video. I've just got back to spraying again and I always miss out a few crucial steps with my sand papers. Never rush and always double check your work before primer. Tommorow I will have to sand so much primer 😅😅
Great point!
Sandpaper looks like it does a good job and quickly
Very impressed with the 3m xtract it's all I'm buying for the mirka system now.
Excellent highlighting the wrong approach to fixing dents useing to much bondo. also your good at highlighting the basics were diy self go wrong including myself. Great
Thank's brother! Appreciate your comment and support!
New sub! Great video and i am glad the mention on the grits, because i have been often confused as to what i need.. going to be doing an diy on my car next week
Thanks for the sub andthe suppot!
Great video as always. The cubitron II is awesome nice to see you using it. I love the uniform scratch. If you use any on the DA I noticed the vacuum hole hook and loop is way better than the mesh. The mesh on the DA seems to get its edges deformed and the amount of actual abrasive on the disk is less due to the mesh. The vacuum performance is great with just the holed disk. I imagine doing a few panels per job they would last you a while after hand blocking it out to 180-240! Thanks for the video Chris.
I'll check out the vacuum hole version. If I'm not mistaken it's much more expensive than the mesh. Appreciate the support brother!
@@GarageNoise They did go up and price a little bit lately, especially the 80 grit for whatever reason. But the difference with how long they last over the mesh is crazy! In my experience on body work or cabinet making it is four to one. They also sell a mini interface pad designed for the cubitron mesh paper and Mirka's auto net so it doesn't destroy your velcro by contacting the surface while sanding through the mesh. It's so thin, it remains hard and doesn't really interfere like a normal interface pad would going over high spots. I think they call them pad protectors and I just been keeping mine on even if I'm not using a mesh. Thanks for the channel Chris.
Excellent video. Excellent job. Beautiful work..
Thank you very much!
I'm 9moth old in spraying painting skill and lwant to become an expert in this ur videos are helping me well
Awesome! Appreciate the comment and support!
Good work scooter
👍
You did a great job on the body work. How would you handle low or high areas on the primer for less then perfect work that would need to be refilled?
Polyester glaze or a coat of high build primer will correct waves
I love your videos. I don’t understand the mixing part of it plz explain more
Watch this one I explain it here.th-cam.com/video/fDKK-eScKQI/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Thanks again for all the tips.
Appreciate it brother!
Early on in the video you talk about the importance of sanding up to 320 grit. And if you don’t, the materials will shrink in the sun and anything courser than 320 grit will show through.
I had a weird situation where I put a wheel well on a rusted pick up truck about 15 years ago. Instead of my usual welding, I was experimenting with Eastwood’s blind rivet and panel adhesive. I thought it would prevent rust at the seam.
Years later, I noticed you could see almost perfectly where the wheel arch replacement panel and original body sheet metal met. In addition to that, You could see where each rivet was perfectly. What would’ve caused that? I usually wet sand up to 1000 grit before shooting Paint. It looked great for years.
Was it black? I've seen that same type of situation on one of my repair in the past. Not a good feeling. My only explanation was filler shrinkage. Back then I used cheap body filler and paid the price. Quality products really make a difference but sometimes you don't know how well a product works until unfortunately it shrinks. I'm not sayong you used cheap filler but shrinkage can be a big problem even if you do everything right!
@@GarageNoise it was PGF Chrysler color on a gen 2 Cummins. It’s dark green. You’ve probably shot it a dozen times: pearl green flake.
use a fibre glass filler over metal work. it fills gaps, coarse scratches its strong as steel and dose not shrink. then apply other type fillers
Awesome information
Thank you
Glad it was helpful!
Hey, this one is great thanks! Useful.
Thanks brother!
Good job Chris
Thanks brother!
Great information sir..." Can I ask a question sir...I'm using r500lvlp 1.3 tips...can spray primer and make it dry sand 600grits sir...I'm using 50L tank 3hp air compressor....can I ...
Thanks for the video I learned something keep him coming
Will do! Appreciate the support Buddy!
Primer is a heavy body surface it requires a deep scratch a 220 grit scratch for good adhesion anything further than that will distort your body work and the poor adhesion to the filler it needs this for a mechanical grip to the service
220 is fine, I perfer 320 that's just a preference. I would not recommend primer over 180 tho too coarse in my experience. 320 is sufficient for mechanical adhesion. Always refer to the technical data sheet for the product your using. 👍
Super helpful. New sub as I'm working on my Wagoneer body. Thanks!
Awesome! Welcome to the channel! Appreciate the comment and support!
That seems like a great product and your technique is awesome you have great content I enjoyed the video❤
Thank you so much! Appreciate the comment and support!
Great video!
Thanks!
Coming from woodworking it’s hard to wrap my brain around a 320 scratch for primer. I was always taught the bigger the scratch the better the grab. I see new vehicles with paint falling off in chunks and can’t help but think they need a bigger scratch. Gm vans have been falling off for years now I see white Hyundais with paint falling off.
Yeah I understand and for the most part that's true. The problem is the shrinking of the primer. All these primers shrink, if someone try's to say they don't it's just hype. Some guys feel it's ok to primer over 180 or 220 I've seen too many sand scratches in repairs from it. Including my own work! So I learn and adapt to mistakes to continually improve quality. Most manufacturers recommend to primer over 320 anyway. Sorry for the rant, sand scratches in a repair is a pet peeve of mine. it drives me nuts! 🤣 Hey , I appreciate the comment and support brother!
@@GarageNoise I recently did a repair on my truck and the Eastwood 2k primer said to sand to 320-400. Now I’m glad I did
Please make a video of the dust extraction system you got
Used the same primer last week had to go 4.1.2 to avoid orange peel
I wouldn't be afraid of a little peel in primer it's meant to be sanded smooth. I do have to use a 1.4 or 1.5 tip on my gun when I spay a 4:1:1 ratio . Appreciate the comment brother!
4:1:2 is the suggested sealer mix, but for the 2253, I've found that slow hardener and slow reducer with an extra splash of reducer gets it right for sealer application. For a primer, orange peel isn't a big deal since you want that high build anyway. Adjust the gun and your passes more
Some times I do
Like high build
Primer
👍
I realized I made an oopsie after I did it, so I was sanding a spoiler for my car and got carried away with sanding, I did not have 600 grit sand paper and skipped from 500 to 800 and then wet sanded it with 800 to finish off, that was before primer, I realized I was sanding like I was prepping for paint instead of primer, is it okay to apply primer after sanding with such fine grit?
Very professional. How about some cut & buff videos? You’re so good, everything is probably “off the gun.” But us mortals have the occasional hiccup.
I've got some great cut a buff video's.
@@GarageNoise yup, found them
Really like your videos a lot. Do you have any videos on what to do if you run into issues after you have finished your body work, like how to deal with pinholes found in body filler areas after primer? Or how to handle deep scratches in the body filler that were not filled by the high build primer? I’m a newbie at this body work and trying to learn how to handle mess ups after I’ve made them
Not specifically, It's mixed in with primer prep video's this one might help th-cam.com/video/pTIU1-gIevg/w-d-xo.html
Great input or lesson...
Thank you!
Another great tutorial!
Thank's brother!
Not sure where you found the Gunbudd but my man Tony sells them. I'm one of his oldest VIP's at Learnautobodyandpaint. I'm no pro but pretty well read so a couple others and I train newbies even if we're somewheat new ourselves. Did you buy any Atom guns? I gifted on away but I still have the tiny X16... Tony is a good man.
I so agree about the sealer in a garage environment. I had runs in mine and DID sand them out but I missed a few that I couldn't see. I see them now of course....
I watched Tony's channel early on. I knew this and the Atom guns are his products. I found it on Amazon. Was looking for a good alternative to lumii light. I like it , works well. I haven't tried the Atom guns. Appreciate the comment and support brother!
I sanded my whole car with 180 getting ready to spray primer… just saved me dog
Alot of people will say it's ok to primer over 180 but I've had shrinkage happen to many times. It's a serious pet peeve of mine. Sand scratches🫣
What is the best way to fix minor rub throughs to metal on the edges.can you use a high quality high build aerosol primer?
You can use primer if it's a direct to metal product. An easy way is a metal prep wipe or a aerosol of self etching primer. Just a light coat and your good to go.
Im painting a Silverado and have done tons of rust repair to get it where i need it.(First time painter) The truck is 4 different colors and it needs some good filler work done now to get it straight. would it be best for me seal it after knocking the paint down well with say 180 first before body filler? then after applying body filler and working it smooth i was gonna spray high build primer(block it to 400) before i lay my single stage paint. Does all this sound goos or do i have order of operations wrong?
Question did you have to sand the sealer before painting ? Thanks again for the education…
I had to lightly sand some trash. Not too bad
@@GarageNoisewhat grid did you used
@@tyronemcneil7175 600
Hello Chris, I really like your videos they are helping me a lot. I would like to know what reducer you use to thin this primer, thanks
Urethane reducer, I don't use any particular brand but lately I've been using usc reducer I got off Amazon. Appreciate the support brother!
So before you shot the sealer what did you shoot? A primer surfacer? Or an epoxy primer?
Primer surfacer
@@GarageNoise was it polyester or urethane?
What is recommended for a Good flexible primer sealer for plastic bumpers? I have the Seymour PBE Flexible Primer and SEM Flexible Primer Surfacer and they work GREAT! but im looking for Primer Sealers out of a can that I can use next... Either a 1k or 2k but definitely prefer a 2k can that either is activated by moisture in the air, or has a 2 part chamber system inside the can... Any recommendations!
Spray max makes a 2k sealer. Not sure if it's considered flexible for bumpers.
Could you spray a no sand sealer right over that primer if it was flat without blocking it and then go right to base coat clearcoat?
Absolutely!
Do you advise using sanding with 180 DA and then putting primer, the DA sander leaves a much smoother finish than using it with a blocker, Or should I even use 320 when using the DA sander also?
Can I mix some blue basecoat with a gray primer to make it darker if I need to spray a blue basecoat over it? Ta
Yes ,when you use it as a sealer you can add basecoat to it.
I use sealer a lot you got that looking nice 👌 👍
Appreciate it!
Hi. Can I have a link for the black powder?
Here ya go amzn.to/457I1MS
What u think about the S2025/4?
what kind of reducer u use?
Can you explain why use the 4.1?
Where did you get your sanding vacuum. Thanks
You can get it on Amazon I got mine from my local paint supplier . Here's a link if you want to check it out. amzn.to/3mjJ4Zn
What brand of 600 DA sand paper are you using, any sand paper i used to make 320 scratches disappear, it was almost impossible, or you should use 4 sandpapers on each panel.
The brand I use is sunmight ceramic it's awesome for 600
amzn.to/3Zwunl4
For everthing else I use 3m cubitron 2 best I've found for price and durability
Can I use primer over existing paint without sanding the existing paint?
No, it needs to be sanded with 320. Appreciate the comment and support
What air compressor size you use?
Interesting video Chris, I like using sealer as it gives a uniform colour to apply your base but the issue I often have is that I get dieback in the clear after it's fully cured, I'm not sure if dieback is the correct term but straight after applying the clear it looks great but the next day it looks textured like the sealer has pinched back but this only happens when using sealer, any suggestions to stop this would be appreciated👍John UK
I've had that happen too. The times it's happened to me I believe it was caused by applying may base a bit to soon and not giving sufficient enough flash time for the sealer. I don't know if you use a 2k sealer like I do. Just one possibility. Appreciate the comment and support!
Thanks for the reply Chris, yeah my sealer is 2K it's the Octoral PH254 non sanding primer and it happened a few days back, I checked the TDS again and it's possible I've been putting to much reducer in the mix, I normally do my sealer work later in the day so it has all night to cure, the Octoral has an open time for recoating of 48hours so there is no problem leaving it over night, thanks for the help.
Can I use UPOL2251 instead of UPOL2253 IDK WHATS THE DIFFERENCE? Thanks
They use the same tds, I believe the difference is something to do with voc compliance.
Can you use any reducer for the primer?
Yes, any brand urethane reducer.
Hi, could you give me a bit of help, I bought a car that has been repainted all under the hood area and it had a few chips in the paint so I started to repair it but then I found that the entire paint was just peeling off and had not stuck to the surface at all so I used a paint scraper and just remover every bit of the paint back to the original Black paint underneath as the car was originally Black but now I am wondering why the paint did not stick so I can do it again without the same problems. Can you give me any advice as to what to do now. Thanks.
Could be alot of reasons poor preparation, incompatible materials. You probably want to strip it and start from bare metal and use a direct to metal 2k primer or a etching primer than a 2k urethane primer. Follow the preparation work laid out in my video's and you should have no problems.
@@GarageNoise Ok thanks, I am using an epoxy primer this time and have sanded everything well so hopefully it will be better then what was done the last time.
@@yeahrightmate 👍
What reducer do you use for your Upol 2253 ? Does it have to be a Upol product which I know would def need to be the product of choice, but can you use a different brand of urethane reducers? I don’t have any available in my area except Omni reducer.
You can use any urethane reducer with upol
@@GarageNoise Ok good cuz I ordered a USC brand off Amazon.
@@NDB390 that's what I use as well
Can you sand primer with 600 grit prior to sealing?
Yes you can and should. Thanks for the support!
What needle size on the sealer gun?
Sealer I use a 1.3
Do I understand correctly that sealer is only to put over primer? My truck door has spray can wrong color on it . I’m thinking I should use a sealer over the wrong colors before the primer and base coat? Is that right?
You would do primer ,sealer then base
You should remove that spray can paint off the door first then refinish the door with proper paint supplies. Covering it up with more products is just asking for more trouble!
Robert you should remove that old paint if possible it would be best.
How do you know when the 2k primer is fully cure
Finished body work today doing the 2k primer you recommended tomorrow. Do you think 400to block or 600 for the spray max
400 for primer and 600 for blend
@@GarageNoise thanks I’ll do a video and list your channel lol as long as I do it ok lol. Might help ya a tiny bit 👊🏻
have any experience with PPG shop line? im going to fix the roof of my Ram i have some rust spots
Never used the shop line but the ppg deltron was great stuff.
@@GarageNoisei just used the shopline color match was really good. i cant tell a difference. it was my first time painting my only complaint is that i got tons of fish eye. I'm pretty upset since i spent hours prepping. on a good note i didint have any orange peel
After stripping a car to bare metal, what’s the best sand paper to use for proper primer adhesion?
80 grit is what is recommended. Check the TDS on the filler your using tho. Appreciate the comment and support!
So if i have a small dent in a door i need to seal the whole door???
No you do not, only seal over the repair area if you need to seal at all.
How long can you leave primer on a vehicle before you paint? I have a 91 GMC 1500 I wanna redo in stages. Can I prime the bed and let it sit while I get the front end done and paint it all with car later or is there a window of time between primer and paint?
If it's not gonna be out in the elements than you can let it sit in 2k urethane primer for months but if you plan on having out in the elements whiles you gradually redo it ,then I would recommend using an epoxy primer. That can be in the elements and will hold up alot better until your ready to paint.
@@GarageNoise thanks for the info. The body is in great shape but the paint is shot. Got a couple of small dings but no damage. I plan to use the same color so I won't have to do the jambs. Really enjoy the videos!
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I always ended with 360
epoxy primer THEN body filler, THEN primer
ALWAYS primer before applying body filler. I can’t count how many times I have found rust under body filler that was applied directly to bare metal.
Yeah that highly debated topic. I've done it both ways , if done correctly you don't have a problem. Appreciate the comment !
Hell no😊
Tell that to insurance
Isnt 15 to 20 psi to low? Ta
Not as long as you adjust your fluid accordingly. So less fluid, at 15 to 20 psi. Typically I'll spray primer with fluid at 2 turns out from closed.
@@GarageNoise thank you
What tip were you using while spraying primer? 1.4?
1.3 this time but I also use a 1.5 for the thicker high build.
@@GarageNoise which tip when you were spraying the sealer? 1.3 also? I’m about to spray for the first time DTM 2K high build urethane primer/sealer as a sealer reduced to 4-1-1, don’t know if I should use a 1.3 or 1.2 for sealer?
@wild8757 add more reducer and make sure to use slow hardener and slow reducer so it'll flow out more. It'll increase cure time slightly but not much since the sealer mil will be thinner. One wet coat should be enough
@@wild8757 1.3 is what I use
You save alot of money without using strainer filters lol.
2:20
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Paints and primers are “thinned” not “reduced”. This is bad English by Americans as expected . If you add thinners to a paint it is “thinned” not “reduced” , to reduce something means to lessen it , but the addition of a “solvent” actually increases the volume .
You didn't say what grit your blocking sandpaper is:
320 then 600