For those who plan to do this type of task, I'd recommend a Spanner Wrench and a cheater to turn off the gland nut (Rod Guide). Using a Monkey Wrench does serious damage to the nut. Having the right tools makes the job much easier.
I could not see any edge holes or recesses or face holes for using a spanner wrench. Isn't there a chain wrench that grabs better than a giant plumber wrench?
Thanks for checking it out. It is a heavy beast and big tools are needed for about everything. It is fun to work on when the result is that it runs and digs.
A very good repair ,out in the field with basic tools , i am not nit picking but all your hard work might have been for nothing, check out frame 11.50 that bad bur that is on the end of the nut ,if that comes off ,it will rip the seals and even destroy the bore , A helpful tip use a soft material like aluminium to remove the seals and "o" rings it will not score the shaft , overall a positive result .
Etoy de acuerdo cuando no hay otra opcion peero se debe desarma y armar en un banco para pistones motivos hay muchos tengo 40 años de trabajar en sistemas hidraulicos y ese sistema al poco tiempo falla se debe sacar el piston completo respeto y admiro el esfuerzo del colega critca constructiva saudos un abrazo
Read through the comments. Some proper spanner wrenches may be needed, o-ring hook set and something to protect the rod. Thanks, hope your repair is a success.
good job! as many of the comments say proper tools and terminology blah blah, in my eyes, I watched a guy with basic tools, some knowledge and time, save alot of money and get the job done, so in your defense you Never said " this is the proper way", "I'm a Deere tech", "these are the right tools" you even acknowledged that the pipe wrench causes damage, so yeah and it's his machine so :p youd think they paid you for the video lol
Ha, Yeah, thanks. Yes, I am just a dude with his machine with holes to dig and stuff to move. Either later in the winter or early spring i will add some videos on more repairs it needs. It is hard to do a greasy job, narrate on the fly and use all the right terminology with a "back yard" repair. Let's hope I get it right.
The Mountain hey whats the worst that the commenters are going to do? fire you? haha I'm actually about to hopefully get into heavy equipment mechanics ASAP and get a career going
The Mountain thanks for your reply, there is no holes for a spanner wrench it looks like I will need a pipe wrench to pull the end cap off! I have all the tools for the job. I think?
Mine doesn't have holes either but slots in the outer rim. Mine has been chewed up over 40 years of abuse and the pipe wrench was unfortunately the only tool I had to do the job.
Yes, with an old machine like this one, I check for leaks and damage on it every few hours. This involves walking around the machine while it is running before, during and after use. Examine the ground for leaks when you move from spot to spot. I even monitor all the noises so that when something changes tone or I hear a hiss, I get out and inspect. If I have a leak, I classify it as manageable until I can fix it or FIX IT NOW.
FWIW in the future get in the habit of loosening the line fittings when you want to remove/install the rod, allows air to enter or escape saves needing the truck or hammer (in most cases).
I appreciate any advice. I do believe both lines were removed, it was just tough to remove. Hopefully I will convey all the helpful tips people have posted in a new future video. Hell, I will even address the hateful ones.
I don’t think so. It’s been a few years so it may have just been the way the edit happened. Maybe I cut the hydraulic fluid emptying onto the ground. So put something below it so it doesn’t get on the ground. That’s the only thing I can think of. Thanks
nice job! I appreciate you taking the time to record. I just got a late 1970"s 510. I will be doing some boom repair soon. Maybe yu could tell me if your machine makes a wratchet sound when you shut it off by the drive for the hydraulic pump by radiator. you only really notice it when you shut it off, the last couple of engine revolutions is the worst.thanksgreg
+Greg Huck Thanks! I will listen. I will say that one of the pins on my crankshaft pulley cracked and in turn broke the clamp that drives the pump. Take a look to see if the bushings and clamp is secure. Mine started making a clicking noise before it threw the clamp but It didn't last long before it broke.The plastic bushings that are secured by the clamps on the pins could be worn and when the engine slows to a stop it could shift around.
+The Mountain thanks, I will try and narrow it down a little further. I am trying to learn line boring as the lower outrigger pin to tractor is egg shaped, the pin bushing is too loose to fit tight. a little welding and rebore is my next fix.
Good evening ... Please explain about .. How to change the leather and silk and jade in Jakat Cutter PLR 950 C in the case of hydraulic oil bleeding from Jaks and here is all respect
There were not on that cylinder. Thinking back i could have welded up a special wrench to fit in some slots on the end but that is what I did. Nothing was “professional”.
Danny Creech it was chewed up through the years so all evidence of holes or slots were long gone making the use of a traditional tool impossible. Plus, this is good ol backyard engineering.
Danny Creech not taken negatively at all. I agree, the correct tool is always better. Always open to constructive criticism that benefits knowledge and procedures. I will never get it perfect.
It depends on where you are and what parts you are looking for. For parts specific to John Deere, a JD dealer is best but you will pay for it. I get some of my parts from James River Equipment (they are a john deere dealer here in the South East) www.jamesriverequipment.com/. Or, you can find the part you need on the John Deere Parts catalog: jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt and then search for it online for he best price from various parts warehouses. There are heavy equipment junk yards out there but my machine is OLD and i haven't had much luck in that realm. For hydraulic hoses, find a local supplier. Here I use Catawba Rubber www.catawbarubber.com/ for my hoses, SO much cheaper than getting it from JD, you just need to bring it in or have specifics on it when you order it (size, length, pressure, thread, etc). For fittings, it can be all over the place, I have two places I get them from, Motion Industries, motionindustries.com (i suggest finding a local place if you use them) Prices are very good. Or, I use local tractor parts stores. Today, I had to buy a fitting for a 3/4" hose and it was $18 from the dealer, $14 online, $8 from the tractor parts guy and $3 from Motion Industries. Issue was Motion had to order and the tractor guy had it on hand. So, $8 is was. I get my Fluid from tractor supply. The specs on their traveler universal fit my machine and the price is much better than JD's
I am from China Seals Factory. Our company produces many types of hydraulic oil seals. If you are interested in our products, we can send you free samples so that you can learn more about our products.
Me gustaria felicitarte pero este tipo de trabajos improvisados dan malos resultados. Ojala consideres preparar tus videos con herramienta adecuada, equipo minimo de seguridad y limpieza. Por ahora este video para mi representa, "como no debe hacerse una reparación de cilindro", aunque reconozco que tenias información e idea para hacer el trabajo.
Steel wool is not sufficient that rod needs to be replaced and so does the head or as he calls it the guide dude has no clue what he’s doing bet it leaked immediately
You do got that right, there are MANY parts on that machine that need to be replaced however its still kicking. I am no professional and appreciate any constructive criticism . It still hasn't leaked which I am sure is a miracle.
Thanks, I will be bringing the beast back from its current work location and then rebuilding the opposite stabilizer cylinder. I hope to upgrade the video on the next one to be better both in information and methods.
while reassembling lube all seals an o-rings so they don't bind an tear or roll. makes reassembly easier an help prevent premature failure.
For those who plan to do this type of task, I'd recommend a Spanner Wrench and a cheater to turn off the gland nut (Rod Guide). Using a Monkey Wrench does serious damage to the nut. Having the right tools makes the job much easier.
My thoughts exactly.
Until the spanner holes get shitty
I could not see any edge holes or recesses or face holes for using a spanner wrench. Isn't there a chain wrench that grabs better than a giant plumber wrench?
Bloody beaut video mate, exactly the kind of DIY instructional videos youtube needs!
Thanks for the comment! I hope to have more useful ones soon as the 40 year old beast needs some attention.
You are so sympatic. Thank you for your videos.
I love to see people have a go. Well done.
thanks. that old machine is still kicking!
Looking at purchasing an old 1977 so this gives me confidence I might be able to do some of the repairs. Thanks for posting the videos.
Thanks for checking it out. It is a heavy beast and big tools are needed for about everything. It is fun to work on when the result is that it runs and digs.
I jk
👍🏻
Great video!
Much better than others on same subject. More detail on parts removal and replacement.
Thanks!
Works for me! Did learn some new tricks thanks to this video...Thank you.
Hallo ich bin aus Deutschland. Danke, danke danke. Beste Video ich verstehe kein Wort Englisch. Aber geschafft Zylinder zusammen bauen super.
I am happy the video helped. I am not the best hydraulic mechanic but I get the machine to work.
Ich bin froh, dass das Video geholfen hat. Ich bin nicht der beste Hydraulikmechaniker, aber ich bringe die Maschine zum Laufen.
Mate that was a fantastic vid! I own few crane trucks here in Australia. Gives me hope of doing things myself and saving few 1000
smear seals with liberal amounts of rubber grease to stop seals burning on first stroke.
A very good repair ,out in the field with basic tools , i am not nit picking but all your hard work might have been for nothing, check out frame 11.50 that bad bur that is on the end of the nut ,if that comes off ,it will rip the seals and even destroy the bore , A helpful tip use a soft material like aluminium to remove the seals and "o" rings it will not score the shaft , overall a positive result .
Use caution putting that glan nut on without a torque wrench. Depending on the machine it could call for 1000's of ft/lbs of torque.
Etoy de acuerdo cuando no hay otra opcion peero se debe desarma y armar en un banco para pistones motivos hay muchos tengo 40 años de trabajar en sistemas hidraulicos y ese sistema al poco tiempo falla se debe sacar el piston completo respeto y admiro el esfuerzo del colega critca constructiva saudos un abrazo
Gracias por la crítica, sé que el trabajo se puede hacer mejor y en un entorno más controlado.
Great video - thanks for sharing!
first time doing and your video worked for me thanks very much!!
Thanks, it is a "backyard" repair so some improvements can be made and better methods but that cylinder is still going after 3 years
I need to repair hey cylinder on my Backhoe. Now I know I can do it myself! Thanks
Read through the comments. Some proper spanner wrenches may be needed, o-ring hook set and something to protect the rod.
Thanks, hope your repair is a success.
good job! as many of the comments say proper tools and terminology blah blah, in my eyes, I watched a guy with basic tools, some knowledge and time, save alot of money and get the job done, so in your defense you Never said " this is the proper way", "I'm a Deere tech", "these are the right tools" you even acknowledged that the pipe wrench causes damage, so yeah and it's his machine so :p youd think they paid you for the video lol
Ha, Yeah, thanks. Yes, I am just a dude with his machine with holes to dig and stuff to move. Either later in the winter or early spring i will add some videos on more repairs it needs. It is hard to do a greasy job, narrate on the fly and use all the right terminology with a "back yard" repair. Let's hope I get it right.
The Mountain hey whats the worst that the commenters are going to do? fire you? haha I'm actually about to hopefully get into heavy equipment mechanics ASAP and get a career going
My other stabilizer is leaking a little. I may shoot a new video soon when i re-pack that cylinder that will be a little shorter and more informative.
The Mountain thanks for your reply, there is no holes for a spanner wrench it looks like I will need a pipe wrench to pull the end cap off! I have all the tools for the job. I think?
Mine doesn't have holes either but slots in the outer rim. Mine has been chewed up over 40 years of abuse and the pipe wrench was unfortunately the only tool I had to do the job.
How do you bleed out the air out of the cilinder?
when you repair the hydrolic ram on the out riggers, you should check the ones on the loader arms, and backhoe..
Yes, with an old machine like this one, I check for leaks and damage on it every few hours. This involves walking around the machine while it is running before, during and after use. Examine the ground for leaks when you move from spot to spot. I even monitor all the noises so that when something changes tone or I hear a hiss, I get out and inspect. If I have a leak, I classify it as manageable until I can fix it or FIX IT NOW.
FWIW in the future get in the habit of loosening the line fittings when you want to remove/install the rod, allows air to enter or escape saves needing the truck or hammer (in most cases).
I appreciate any advice. I do believe both lines were removed, it was just tough to remove. Hopefully I will convey all the helpful tips people have posted in a new future video. Hell, I will even address the hateful ones.
Was there something you didn’t want us to see when you pulled the shaft out with the truck ? 😆 ExxonValdez Great video , thanks
I don’t think so. It’s been a few years so it may have just been the way the edit happened. Maybe I cut the hydraulic fluid emptying onto the ground. So put something below it so it doesn’t get on the ground. That’s the only thing I can think of. Thanks
nice job! I appreciate you taking the time to record. I just got a late 1970"s 510. I will be doing some boom repair soon. Maybe yu could tell me if your machine makes a wratchet sound when you shut it off by the drive for the hydraulic pump by radiator. you only really notice it when you shut it off, the last couple of engine revolutions is the worst.thanksgreg
+Greg Huck Thanks! I will listen. I will say that one of the pins on my crankshaft pulley cracked and in turn broke the clamp that drives the pump. Take a look to see if the bushings and clamp is secure. Mine started making a clicking noise before it threw the clamp but It didn't last long before it broke.The plastic bushings that are secured by the clamps on the pins could be worn and when the engine slows to a stop it could shift around.
+The Mountain thanks, I will try and narrow it down a little further. I am trying to learn line boring as the lower outrigger pin to tractor is egg shaped, the pin bushing is too loose to fit tight. a little welding and rebore is my next fix.
I will look for the video. Thanks!
thank you for you're video
Great videos dude!
There are "cleaner" more precise ways to do these types of repairs but if you are in a pinch, use my methods and improve on them as you see fit.
I bought a 1966 ck 530 case 188 Diesel Backhoe for $2500.00 and I bought a 1973 Ford f 700 dump truck for $2500.00 all for the farm
Awesome. Those old machines run forever!
Merçi,pour cette video et pour les explication,je parle pas bien anglais mais grace au gestes j'arrive a comprendre.Merçi
Merci pour ton aimable commentaire. J'espère que vous pouvez faire les réparations à votre machine.
Isn't the outside seal on the gland nut just a scraper and doesnt seal any pressure from inside?
You are right. It's job is to clear debris to keep the other seals in better working order
Should the gland nut and all it's seals be greased when putting it onto a dry ram?
it is a good idea, or lube up the shaft. or both.
thanks for the help buddy
bad ass, thanx!!!!
Good evening ... Please explain about .. How to change the leather and silk and jade in Jakat Cutter PLR 950 C in the case of hydraulic oil bleeding from Jaks and here is all respect
It's a good thing you let us know how many miles are on your p/u, I thought we'd never get to find that out.
true, it just came out, non-scripted, it has more miles now!
Did you use any emery cloth on your rod or just steel wool to knock off the high spots?
I didn't but that is another good point that would smooth them out even more. thanks
Ya got 'er! nice.
wow, i like this xiaogege, OMG
nice video good detail
super
I watched a couple of these no actual experience, but would spraying WD on the threads help?? Great being handy, love watching stuff like this. Thanks
yes, a penetrating oil is helpful sometimes, on some of these bolts, penetrating oil, heat, brute force and frustration can be required
Were there no spanner wrench holes on the edge of the gland nut? Would a chain wrench work?
There were not on that cylinder. Thinking back i could have welded up a special wrench to fit in some slots on the end but that is what I did. Nothing was “professional”.
The end you were screwing is known as a glan nut.
Thanks, I thought it was a "Gland" Nut. I apologize for not using the correct terminology while doing the video.
Is there a reason you used a pipewrench rather than a spanner and socket?
Danny Creech it was chewed up through the years so all evidence of holes or slots were long gone making the use of a traditional tool impossible. Plus, this is good ol backyard engineering.
The Mountain Not critizing, just noticed. After 40 years of being a machinist/toolmaker I just see things differently.
Danny Creech not taken negatively at all. I agree, the correct tool is always better. Always open to constructive criticism that benefits knowledge and procedures. I will never get it perfect.
كيف تفك بطون هيدرك
OMG the bolt are broken
Have a 510b, where is this best place to get parts
It depends on where you are and what parts you are looking for.
For parts specific to John Deere, a JD dealer is best but you will pay for it. I get some of my parts from James River Equipment (they are a john deere dealer here in the South East) www.jamesriverequipment.com/.
Or, you can find the part you need on the John Deere Parts catalog: jdpc.deere.com/jdpc/servlet/com.deere.u90490.partscatalog.view.servlets.HomePageServlet_Alt and then search for it online for he best price from various parts warehouses.
There are heavy equipment junk yards out there but my machine is OLD and i haven't had much luck in that realm.
For hydraulic hoses, find a local supplier. Here I use Catawba Rubber www.catawbarubber.com/ for my hoses, SO much cheaper than getting it from JD, you just need to bring it in or have specifics on it when you order it (size, length, pressure, thread, etc).
For fittings, it can be all over the place, I have two places I get them from, Motion Industries, motionindustries.com (i suggest finding a local place if you use them) Prices are very good. Or, I use local tractor parts stores. Today, I had to buy a fitting for a 3/4" hose and it was $18 from the dealer, $14 online, $8 from the tractor parts guy and $3 from Motion Industries. Issue was Motion had to order and the tractor guy had it on hand. So, $8 is was.
I get my Fluid from tractor supply. The specs on their traveler universal fit my machine and the price is much better than JD's
I should do a video on parts so the guy that commented that I talk to much below will lose his sh*t.
" I'm gona go ahead and " why not just do
Where in PA you from?
NC - although with the current heat, I going to say it must be Equador
Haha ok. I'm from North Central too. Bradford Tioga county line. You?
idk, that rod looks pretty rough :\
Jonathan Blackmon it is old and banged up. I'm milking it as long as I can.
backhoe operator repair exchange.
I am from China Seals Factory. Our company produces many types of hydraulic oil seals. If you are interested in our products, we can send you free samples so that you can learn more about our products.
Me gustaria felicitarte pero este tipo de trabajos improvisados dan malos resultados. Ojala consideres preparar tus videos con herramienta adecuada, equipo minimo de seguridad y limpieza. Por ahora este video para mi representa, "como no debe hacerse una reparación de cilindro", aunque reconozco que tenias información e idea para hacer el trabajo.
Gracias, por favor dirígeme a su video para que pueda ver cómo funciona el trabajo correctamente.
기름에 쩌들 저땅은 어쩔.....
석유를 재활용하다
ko
date gode*
Steel wool is not sufficient that rod needs to be replaced and so does the head or as he calls it the guide dude has no clue what he’s doing bet it leaked immediately
I do this for a living I will give him props for trying though he at least had the guts to try
You do got that right, there are MANY parts on that machine that need to be replaced however its still kicking. I am no professional and appreciate any constructive criticism . It still hasn't leaked which I am sure is a miracle.
@@jacobjones6456 Thanks, I appreciate the props! Many people have criticisms for others on TH-cam but don't have videos of their own.
There's always " that guy"
أبو يوسف
um... yes?
हुत
you talk too much....next time protect that crome with plastic cut pipe
+the thing Good idea with the cut pipe. Will do that next rebuild. And try not to talk to much. Its a horrible problem I have.
Thanks, I will be bringing the beast back from its current work location and then rebuilding the opposite stabilizer cylinder. I hope to upgrade the video on the next one to be better both in information and methods.
If you think he talks too much then mute your speakers. BTW, you write too much.