Love the videos Seth, can't wait to see the next. It's a shame so many folks in the comments want to just be trolls yelling CODE without explanation. Simply put, every time someone dies in a fire attributed to wiring, a new rule is added to the code to hopefully prevent another loss of life. You did a lot well. sub-panel neutral insulated from the enclosure, check. correct size wire for the amperage, check. insulated wire staples, check. lights on a separate circuit from power tools so you aren't tripping in the dark when a breaker pops, check 2 circuits for power tools so your air compressor kicking on while using the table saw doesn't pop a breaker, check. Each door has a switch to turn on at least 1 interior light, check. GFI outlet for outside, check (as long as it will have an outdoor plate/cover.) Junction box stands proud of future interior wall and has blank cover so it stays accessible, check a few related notes: Switch heights are for the convenience of being where you expect them to be when reaching in the dark because that's were every other switch in your house is located. Though not a code requirement, 12 or 16 inches off the floor is 'standard' for a receptical, partially so that they are where you expect them, partially so they are hidden behind furniture, mostly so that you don't have to get on hands and knees to plug something in. floor and baseboard outlets get covers to keep dirt & debris (and wet mop heads) out of them. Distance between outlets is to save you from running extension cords across foot traffic paths. Outlets do get yanked, outlet box screws do break, electrical repairs do pull on the wires, all these pull the wire in the walls, so all wires ought to be stapled at at least either end to prevent them getting pulled/yanked and causing a short. In a shop with unfinished walls it would be easy to snag a wire with a pipe, board, shelf bracket, trycicle going up to overhead storage, Christmas yard decorations, about to be shipped ram pump, etc, so I would go back to the short runs between the junction box and wall switches and replace them with longer runs that are stapled at both ends.
Thanks for sharing your video. There are several comments here that should not be ignored concerning code requirements. A couple of things I also noticed was at each stud you drilled through and ran the wiring through should have a metal strip attached on the face of the stud at the hight of the wiring. This prevents anyone who is installing drywall from hitting the wire with a screw. Also on the box you installed below panel should be at least 18 inches off the floor. This is required because gas fumes are heavier than air and can be ignited by a spark when an item is plucked into that outlet.
Hello. Thank you for the great input. In a later video I install the metal plates to protect the wire. Fun knowledge on the gas fumes. I did not know that one. The box is not quite 18" off the ground. Luckily I do not use gas in the shed. I appreciate your positive outlook on a video like this one.
Have you considered the 4' LED shop lights that CostCo sells? They can be daisy-chained to each other for up to 4 fixtures, and then plug into a standard outlet. So one outlet in the ceiling could run 4 fixtures, and they are very bright!.
+MrConradF oh cool! I had not seen those. There is not a Costco within 2+ hours from here. Sadly. I have 8 can lights now and will be getting 2 more. That should give plenty of light with LEDS.
So far, I haven't seen all the following videos of your build, but why you didn't install your electrical pannel flush mount? It would have been easier to get good insulation behind him. But out of that, I think you can be proud of what you did by yourself.
With the 1/2" osb walls the panel is just about right. Would have been nice to have room for some insulation but at the end of the day its still just a tool shed so I guess its not that bad. Thank you for watching! I am new to this stuff so I enjoy learning from others.
We just finished several days roughing in the plumbing and electrical on our workshop. Look forward to following along with your progress! We'll be installing insulation today, which is certainly not as fun as electrical work!
nice. hint. putting some receptacles up high can make plugging in tools easier, even some in the ceiling . also use lots of breakers and higher amp wire so you don't overload anything. very exciting to see it all come together
I thought about placing some outlets in the ceiling that would allow cords to hang down. but then I have not installed any. I really should because it would be nice for filming lights. i have 14/2 for all the lights and that should be more than enough. The outlets are all 12/2. I think that is enough for all the tools I will be running. . . Lets hope.
Put your computer on an APC UPS and you won't have any issues regardless on a desktop as it also regulates the voltage. It will also recognize an open neutral condition.
Land to House.... Okay, hopefully you won’t experience an outage when your hard drive is spinning and therefore lose the drive due to scratches. Of course laptops with good batteries don’t have this problem when plugged in since the battery will take over in the event of an outage or voltage spike. Thanks for the video
+First Last yes can lights. LED all the way. I figure with 8 leds there will not be much demand. I have one ground fault for the outside. I will need to get them for the others.
Your two switch boxes by the door are too close together to use unmodified cover plates. You’d have been just as well off to use a double switch box and use that as the junction, as well. Also, code is to fasten all cables 6” from boxes and every 36”. I’ll look at the end, but it looks like you might have short wires in the breaker box.
Remember to only drill the hole for outside light the dynamiter of the housing not including the flared aria meant to rest against the tyvek to secure the installation or you will run into the same issue you had with the tiny house outside light
Yes for sure! I was thinking that I might just drill enough for the wire to go through and then drill separate holes for the screws to pass through. That way I dont have that same issue with the large gap in the outside siding.
Did you find you left yourself enough wire? I thought at 12:38 the wire looked short but I've never done this before so I dunno? Thanks for this, it was very helpful. Or, it will be very helpful.
Hi Seth, nice work! I noticed you have wired your reciprocals in series in stead of parallel not an issue as long you are not exceeding the maximum load as the load is added up that way..
Could've gotten away with a double gang box for the two switches at the front of the building instead of the dual singles. Slight faceplate conflict there.
A building permit is highly recommended/required. Especially if you're going to be doing work with water or electric. I won't say the actual status of my permit....
darrques101 .... in the U.S., not all localities require permitting. An example would be rural areas. Most cities have some sort of code and permitting requirement
Except in this case he's citing NEC (300.14) so it's actually what code says to do. Here's a link for more info jadelearning.com/jadecc/courses/UNIVERSAL/NEC05.php?imDif=2578
I made sure to have at least 6" of wire coming out of each of these boxes. They are the standard small box. I think that 12" of wire would be way to much to stuff in a box. (If I am reading trdoffroadjoe's comment correctly)
I would've ran a separate circuit for the air conditioner. Also, could've put both those light switches in a two-gang box. Would be well within the box fill limits to make that outlet run too; No need for a separate j-box. Otherwise it looks good.
NEC has nothing to say which direction a plug receptacle should go. Lots of old timers would put them ground up to signify a switched outlet. Odds of a tool land behind a plug is pretty slim.
You violated code when you broke off the tabs, they are required plus where are your nail guard Plates to prevent you from screwing or nailing int the wire in the studs
Thomas Marable The tab satisfy the requirement that the wire be secured in the box. If your inspector passed it with no tab or Romeo connector he needs to be fired and charges against falsely pass a inspection
@@johniemullins5142 the tabs are break away tabs. They are made to be broken out. Carlin makes the boxes and it's in their instructions. The wire will not come out as long as you secure it per code
Don't you guys work to the rule of keeping the cable runs within the horizontal or vertical line of the outlets? Otherwise how are you going to know where the cables are when the surface finish is applied?
16:52 I think he should have ran the cable above the boxes. He could’ve saved some feet because the cable came from above and he could’ve made the holes in the studs more above the boxes so he wouldn’t have sharp turns like that into the boxes.
Land to House I think you did great. I like to watch videos like yours and then reading what the comments have to say and then reading what people have to say to my comments.
I would like to have it outfitted with Ram Pump parts in the next month. That will save me from driving 20 min to my parents building to make a pump. I will need to make some shelves and a work bench and I will be good to go.
Your stacked switch box neet to be 1" apart at least oherwise your plates not gonna sit right ....and staple the 14/2 ....Also, why not do a dedicated run for the computer. Other than that good job
I was thinking about doing that. I would have to place two separate lines underground because the power and info lines cant run together. I have a feeling that I can get a cheap wireless card for the computer in the shop and I will be just fine.
I have always done it this way. I run a wire to the first box then another wire to the next one and so on. It is just a single run for a set of outlets.
Question I’m Looking to buy a 10hr 80gal 2-stage one and it recommends 60a breaker and it has 40a running and 80a start up. I don’t understand electric all i know is my old compressor has 8/2 cable rated at i believe 45a and i have a 50a double pull breaker. I’m a little confused why they reconnect a 60a breaker but they say it’s 80a start us. Can someone tell me if I’m ok with my 8/2 and 50a breaker or so i need to update my line. Any help appreciated.
Thanks for the awesome video! A couple quick questions....How many receptacles did you install per 20 amp breaker? How many lights per 15 amp breaker? Thanks so much!
I have 5 per side of the workshop each side on a 20amp. I have 6 can lights on a 15amp and two led lights that have been added later. The can lights have led's in them so there is little drawn from lighting.
You will need to put in a GFCI outlet in the last outlet box before you wire in the exterior outlet per code because it is in a wet environment. Good job.
@@LandtoHouse rely? is it though? IDK about you but I would have gladly pay an extra .50 a foot for 12/2 and .25 extra for a 20amp outlet for my computer any day over a 15amp outlet, at least I sure hope you used a 15amp outlet on that 14/2, unless you want a heater/fire starter in your walls.
Dont listen to these comments. These “electricians” get mad that an average joe can do their trade with what I would consider a high margin of correction. Is everything 100% correct, No, but then again this is not a how to. Sit back and relax fellas.
Thomas Marable in small residential work, ceiling fans and 120v outlets I would say anyone who considers themselves handy can do it. As far as anything over 120v or electrical troubleshooting, most likely not.
@@Mack.of.all.trades most people who are mechanicly incline can change switchs and recpticals install a ceiling fan. But adding sud panels and pulling in wire, with out a lot of research and looking into codes they get it wrong. It works but not safe. Insurance company look for stuff like that, anything to keep from paying a claim. If a home owner wants to do it go ahead,but get a permit and have it inspected.
I do not have any diagrams. This install was on the top of my head. Later in anther video (I think) I install some metal nail plats that protect the part of the stud with the wire behind it.
@@LandtoHouse It is standard or normal to have the ground on the bottom. However, I also install the ground on top for the same safety reason you mentioned. I'm just a Diy'er so I am not sure what is code or best, but I have been doing it that way for years ever since my family had a house professionally built in Maine and the electrician insisted it be done ground on top or he would not take the job. After he explained the reason I have been doing it ever since. Thanks for the vid. Just finished building my 6x8 shed for small workshop and planning to run elec next. I understand it is small but going to pack it full with all my tools which includefolding bench a table and chop/slide saw, router table, jointer/planner, compressor, vac and all my other wood working hand tools. For reasons that are not important, a 6x8 shed is what I built. Just finished today insulating the floor with 4" bluebeard (2 layers of 2") and after elec will insulate walls and ceiling. Have to get real creative to put that amount of tools in a tiny shed. But, I have the tools and did not have a shed. So it is better than nothing. Again, thanks for sharing your build.
Nick B. If you drop something on the plug or drop something that was plugged in the ground prong hits first it’s more of a safety feature since very few things if any will hit your plug from the bottom going up
@@LandtoHouse In the 70's/80's you could tell which home in a subdivision was the 'model' and agent office, because the plugs were all ground up so that the sales agents' answering machines wall plugs would sit correctly against the wall, cord coming out the bottom, and not be upside down and lean outward.
This series of me showing how I build my little shed is just that. Showing how I build a shed. You will want to check your local government for code in your area.
Land to House I don’t know what you’re doing for your little sister and I don’t need to check the local codes, I could tell you without checking that some of the things are code violations according to the national electric code, they are minor put violations nonetheless. But my point was people are looking at this to learn how to do it and they’re getting wrong and potentially unsafe information.
@@LandtoHouse Mmmmm. No. If you're not up to code, I need to unsubscribe. Sorry man. All my wealth is in my property and it needs to be able to sell. Gotta go with the code.
Code requirements that plugs with in 14” of the floor that the ground be up so that when you plug in the ground is first above 3 feet the ground is required on the down side for the same reason has NOTHING to do with dropping tools across a plug
Johnie Mullins obviously you do not. You don’t even know the difference between a “plug” and a receptacle. Oh, and how about a code book reference, smart guy? Oh yea, there isn’t one.
Please no more of this there are so many code violations it’s not even a joke at this point. Single plastic boxes must have a staple 6 in from box. 1/4 inch of insulation inside boxes. Your box is over filled that you uses as a junction box. where your wires enter your outlet boxes there is a maximum bending radius for the wires. I’m just trying to be informative.
Land to House I think it’s cause it’s a plastic box, with no clamp feature (removed) so code states 6 in from the box but don’t quote me on it bc I’m in Canada not US
@@LandtoHouse maybe but doesn't matter if it's a tool shed or multi million dollar home should still do the best possible job and hold to all codes to the best of your ability don't try to teach people something you don't know much about yourself especially when someone could get hurt or killed
Why is it you guys have to make yourself feel better by putting down folks that put up their video's? So you believe youtube video's are only for professionals to teach others? That is not true. It is just a video sharing what someone has done. It is not meant as educational, however it at times can be. So if you are a elec professional as you "appear" to be then make constructive criticism. Leave a comment to educate others that are watching. Or as my father used to say " if you have nothing good to say then don't say anything".
@@61spindrift could really care less about the work posted a comment just to prove that it seems that everyone is just ready for a fight , everyone is a know it all it doesn't matter what you do for a living you know more than the other guy,
Hi Seth, nice work! I noticed you have wired your reciprocals in series in stead of parallel not an issue as long you are not exceeding the maximum load as the load is added up that way..
+Martijn Fransen thank you. Yes i don't plan on using more than one or two tools at a time. So I should be fine. If something changes in the future I could go back but I think this will be fine.
+Martijn Fransen that would help. But I think I'll be okay. I don't believe any of my tools in combination will come close to using the full amperage 4 voltage. As long as I keep till one or two at a time. I wonder if it would be beneficial to run a separate circuit from the sub panel to the air conditioner?
If I was you I would do that. In that way you would never have think about it. I don't know how much power your airconditiong draws.. here NL we have a 16 amp system standard with 230V the max is 3500 watt. So depending on your voltage and the power needed you can calculate if that is enough...P=I x U..(I is amps , U is Volt) with 4 amp system that is either 440W or 920W depending on you voltage....
Love the videos Seth, can't wait to see the next.
It's a shame so many folks in the comments want to just be trolls yelling CODE without explanation. Simply put, every time someone dies in a fire attributed to wiring, a new rule is added to the code to hopefully prevent another loss of life.
You did a lot well.
sub-panel neutral insulated from the enclosure, check.
correct size wire for the amperage, check.
insulated wire staples, check.
lights on a separate circuit from power tools so you aren't tripping in the dark when a breaker pops, check
2 circuits for power tools so your air compressor kicking on while using the table saw doesn't pop a breaker, check.
Each door has a switch to turn on at least 1 interior light, check.
GFI outlet for outside, check (as long as it will have an outdoor plate/cover.)
Junction box stands proud of future interior wall and has blank cover so it stays accessible, check
a few related notes:
Switch heights are for the convenience of being where you expect them to be when reaching in the dark because that's were every other switch in your house is located. Though not a code requirement, 12 or 16 inches off the floor is 'standard' for a receptical, partially so that they are where you expect them, partially so they are hidden behind furniture, mostly so that you don't have to get on hands and knees to plug something in. floor and baseboard outlets get covers to keep dirt & debris (and wet mop heads) out of them. Distance between outlets is to save you from running extension cords across foot traffic paths.
Outlets do get yanked, outlet box screws do break, electrical repairs do pull on the wires, all these pull the wire in the walls, so all wires ought to be stapled at at least either end to prevent them getting pulled/yanked and causing a short. In a shop with unfinished walls it would be easy to snag a wire with a pipe, board, shelf bracket, trycicle going up to overhead storage, Christmas yard decorations, about to be shipped ram pump, etc, so I would go back to the short runs between the junction box and wall switches and replace them with longer runs that are stapled at both ends.
Thanks for sharing your video. There are several comments here that should not be ignored concerning code requirements. A couple of things I also noticed was at each stud you drilled through and ran the wiring through should have a metal strip attached on the face of the stud at the hight of the wiring. This prevents anyone who is installing drywall from hitting the wire with a screw. Also on the box you installed below panel should be at least 18 inches off the floor. This is required because gas fumes are heavier than air and can be ignited by a spark when an item is plucked into that outlet.
Hello. Thank you for the great input. In a later video I install the metal plates to protect the wire. Fun knowledge on the gas fumes. I did not know that one. The box is not quite 18" off the ground. Luckily I do not use gas in the shed. I appreciate your positive outlook on a video like this one.
Have you considered the 4' LED shop lights that CostCo sells? They can be daisy-chained to each other for up to 4 fixtures, and then plug into a standard outlet. So one outlet in the ceiling could run 4 fixtures, and they are very bright!.
+MrConradF oh cool! I had not seen those. There is not a Costco within 2+ hours from here. Sadly. I have 8 can lights now and will be getting 2 more. That should give plenty of light with LEDS.
Costco really
So far, I haven't seen all the following videos of your build, but why you didn't install your electrical pannel flush mount? It would have been easier to get good insulation behind him. But out of that, I think you can be proud of what you did by yourself.
With the 1/2" osb walls the panel is just about right. Would have been nice to have room for some insulation but at the end of the day its still just a tool shed so I guess its not that bad. Thank you for watching! I am new to this stuff so I enjoy learning from others.
We just finished several days roughing in the plumbing and electrical on our workshop. Look forward to following along with your progress! We'll be installing insulation today, which is certainly not as fun as electrical work!
+St. Isidore's Farm having help is great with this type of work! What plumbing do you have in your building? Insulation can be a real pain!
nice. hint. putting some receptacles up high can make plugging in tools easier, even some in the ceiling . also use lots of breakers and higher amp wire so you don't overload anything. very exciting to see it all come together
I thought about placing some outlets in the ceiling that would allow cords to hang down. but then I have not installed any. I really should because it would be nice for filming lights. i have 14/2 for all the lights and that should be more than enough. The outlets are all 12/2. I think that is enough for all the tools I will be running. . . Lets hope.
Best guide to installing electric in an outbuilding.
Put your computer on an APC UPS and you won't have any issues regardless on a desktop as it also regulates the voltage. It will also recognize an open neutral condition.
That is good to know. So far no issues.
Land to House.... Okay, hopefully you won’t experience an outage when your hard drive is spinning and therefore lose the drive due to scratches. Of course laptops with good batteries don’t have this problem when plugged in since the battery will take over in the event of an outage or voltage spike. Thanks for the video
I have only used the computer a couple of times. When I have more need to use it I will likely improve the setup with extra power backup.
You said can lights. LED or fluorescent I hope. Greatly reduces the load of lighting on the electrical system. I assume the GFCI will be in the panel.
+First Last yes can lights. LED all the way. I figure with 8 leds there will not be much demand. I have one ground fault for the outside. I will need to get them for the others.
Very informative. I have done dyi project similar to this and will be doing another project.
+Cynthia Alan I really enjoy this type of work. Learning all the time. Thank you for watching.
Your two switch boxes by the door are too close together to use unmodified cover plates. You’d have been just as well off to use a double switch box and use that as the junction, as well.
Also, code is to fasten all cables 6” from boxes and every 36”.
I’ll look at the end, but it looks like you might have short wires in the breaker box.
You forgot to do the MAGICIAN'S HANDS thing when you did the UNBOXING of the panel
haha yes that is true.
Remember to only drill the hole for outside light the dynamiter of the housing not including the flared aria meant to rest against the tyvek to secure the installation or you will run into the same issue you had with the tiny house outside light
Yes for sure! I was thinking that I might just drill enough for the wire to go through and then drill separate holes for the screws to pass through. That way I dont have that same issue with the large gap in the outside siding.
Love this! Thanks so much for the help! Easy to follow. Great tempo.
Nice work.
+Ttf Web thank you!
Did you find you left yourself enough wire? I thought at 12:38 the wire looked short but I've never done this before so I dunno? Thanks for this, it was very helpful. Or, it will be very helpful.
Hi Seth, nice work! I noticed you have wired your reciprocals in series in stead of parallel not an issue as long you are not exceeding the maximum load as the load is added up that way..
Could've gotten away with a double gang box for the two switches at the front of the building instead of the dual singles. Slight faceplate conflict there.
Very informative, thanks for sharing. Question though did you have to get a building permit for the improvements?
A building permit is highly recommended/required. Especially if you're going to be doing work with water or electric. I won't say the actual status of my permit....
darrques101 .... in the U.S., not all localities require permitting. An example would be rural areas. Most cities have some sort of code and permitting requirement
Great video. You make it look EZ. Thank you.
This work is not hard. You can do it!
Looks like a surface mount panel , I would like used a flush mount
Great video awesome
You should give your self an extra 6" on the wire for each outlet
+trdoffroadjoe one foot per box? That's a lot!
Land to House I swear the people who make comments on electrical videos must be absolutely retarded 😂
:) everyone has an opinion and they like to share.
Except in this case he's citing NEC (300.14) so it's actually what code says to do. Here's a link for more info jadelearning.com/jadecc/courses/UNIVERSAL/NEC05.php?imDif=2578
I made sure to have at least 6" of wire coming out of each of these boxes. They are the standard small box. I think that 12" of wire would be way to much to stuff in a box. (If I am reading trdoffroadjoe's comment correctly)
I would've ran a separate circuit for the air conditioner. Also, could've put both those light switches in a two-gang box. Would be well within the box fill limits to make that outlet run too; No need for a separate j-box. Otherwise it looks good.
NEC has nothing to say which direction a plug receptacle should go. Lots of old timers would put them ground up to signify a switched outlet. Odds of a tool land behind a plug is pretty slim.
always use fire rated wood for your backing and paint it but leave the fire label/ marking showing
You violated code when you broke off the tabs, they are required plus where are your nail guard
Plates to prevent you from screwing or nailing int the wire in the studs
Good to know about the tabs. The nail plates are installed later.
Some plastic boxes the tabs break out. I used them all the time and pass inspection.
Thomas Marable The tab satisfy the requirement that the wire be secured in the box. If your inspector passed it with no tab or Romeo connector he needs to be fired and charges against falsely pass a inspection
@@johniemullins5142 the tabs are break away tabs. They are made to be broken out. Carlin makes the boxes and it's in their instructions. The wire will not come out as long as you secure it per code
Which is within 12" of the box
Don't you guys work to the rule of keeping the cable runs within the horizontal or vertical line of the outlets? Otherwise how are you going to know where the cables are when the surface finish is applied?
Nice fleece jacket. What brand is it? Good video, btw.
That is actually from Old Navy.
nice channel📸
Seth: You may want to separate the stacked switch boxes a bit as the cover plates extend beyond the boxes.. Bert
Oh yes indeed. It did not take long to realize that I was not going to get those switches in with such tight tolerance.
Hahaha
Thank you this was really helpful
Great. Thank you for watching.
16:52 I think he should have ran the cable above the boxes. He could’ve saved some feet because the cable came from above and he could’ve made the holes in the studs more above the boxes so he wouldn’t have sharp turns like that into the boxes.
There are so many things that I could have to improve the build. But now that its done its nice to have a place to work.
Land to House I think you did great. I like to watch videos like yours and then reading what the comments have to say and then reading what people have to say to my comments.
Nice job it is all coming along well now, how long before you will be actually be able to use it as a workshop?
I would like to have it outfitted with Ram Pump parts in the next month. That will save me from driving 20 min to my parents building to make a pump. I will need to make some shelves and a work bench and I will be good to go.
Ever wonder why the grounding prong on a plug is longer than the blades?
Why is that?
So that it enters the Receptacle first , grounding the circuit before it goes hot
The tabs on those boxes look like they would interfere with sheet rock.
I bet it would. I installed plywood on the walls so it was not an issue.
Your stacked switch box neet to be 1" apart at least oherwise your plates not gonna sit right ....and staple the 14/2 ....Also, why not do a dedicated run for the computer. Other than that good job
Run CAT5 cable for high speedd internet if you needd it in the shop since wireless is much slower than the cable.
I was thinking about doing that. I would have to place two separate lines underground because the power and info lines cant run together. I have a feeling that I can get a cheap wireless card for the computer in the shop and I will be just fine.
Did you ever get a chance to live in your tiny house?
+Daniel Weaver I never did. It still needs a lot of work before it's ready to be moved in. Someday I will return to that.
Cam you tell me how to splice into the wires for outlet instead of having to run a wire for each outlet
I have always done it this way. I run a wire to the first box then another wire to the next one and so on. It is just a single run for a set of outlets.
Question I’m
Looking to buy a 10hr 80gal 2-stage one and it recommends 60a breaker and it has 40a running and 80a start up. I don’t understand electric all i know is my old compressor has 8/2 cable rated at i believe 45a and i have a 50a double pull breaker. I’m a little confused why they reconnect a 60a breaker but they say it’s 80a start us. Can someone tell me if I’m ok with my 8/2 and 50a breaker or so i need to update my line. Any help appreciated.
Thanks for the awesome video! A couple quick questions....How many receptacles did you install per 20 amp breaker? How many lights per 15 amp breaker? Thanks so much!
I have 5 per side of the workshop each side on a 20amp. I have 6 can lights on a 15amp and two led lights that have been added later. The can lights have led's in them so there is little drawn from lighting.
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You will need to put in a GFCI outlet in the last outlet box before you wire in the exterior outlet per code because it is in a wet environment. Good job.
+David Casper thank you. Is it ok to just use gfci on the outdoor outlet only?
No, it must be on the inside away from moisture.
+David Casper well I can swap the one on the end and put the gfci there inside and use the normal outside.
Awesome. That way if the GFCI triggers it will kill all the power to that outside outlet.
+David Casper thank you. Now does it kill all power on that breaker?
How come some of the outlets are upside down
confused about why you're running 14/2 for the computer and lights, could you explain that?
Just saves a little money. 14/2 is plenty to run lights and a simple computer.
@@LandtoHouse rely? is it though? IDK about you but I would have gladly pay an extra .50 a foot for 12/2 and .25 extra for a 20amp outlet for my computer any day over a 15amp outlet, at least I sure hope you used a 15amp outlet on that 14/2, unless you want a heater/fire starter in your walls.
Outlets seem to upside down?. Noally 3rd hole faces down
They can be either direction. :)
Good to have ground hole on top. If cord comes lose or sags, the ground terminal will be exposed as opposed to a hot terminal. Much safer.
What tool do you have that you keep flipping around? A multi tool of some sort?..
+Aaron Morningstar it is actually a wire stripper with stripper on one side and clipper on the other side.
Land to House I really like the looks of that tool.. could you tell me what brand and where you bought it? Thanks for your help!
+Aaron Morningstar I have just looked for the tool and I don't see it on Amazon. I will have to find the tool and get the brand.
Dont listen to these comments. These “electricians” get mad that an average joe can do their trade with what I would consider a high margin of correction.
Is everything 100% correct, No, but then again this is not a how to. Sit back and relax fellas.
Haha I dont get mad at them. A lot of times I do get to learn from comments. Those that are too negative I just ignore.
The average Joe can not do what I do and I dare them to try.
Thomas Marable in small residential work, ceiling fans and 120v outlets I would say anyone who considers themselves handy can do it.
As far as anything over 120v or electrical troubleshooting, most likely not.
@@Mack.of.all.trades most people who are mechanicly incline can change switchs and recpticals install a ceiling fan. But adding sud panels and pulling in wire, with out a lot of research and looking into codes they get it wrong. It works but not safe. Insurance company look for stuff like that, anything to keep from paying a claim. If a home owner wants to do it go ahead,but get a permit and have it inspected.
Cant wait to be a Jman and have those crazy stapling skills
haha yes crazy stapling skills.
bishal khatri ibn
anybody else notice the orbs? lol @10:00
Question do you have diagrams of the circuits, and when you go to put the boards on how do you miss the wires in the studs with nails/ screws
I do not have any diagrams. This install was on the top of my head. Later in anther video (I think) I install some metal nail plats that protect the part of the stud with the wire behind it.
Spend a little more cable, job getting easier!
Haha yes! I am actually wiring now and leaving 1 foot behind the box.
Dedicated circuit for the AC woukd be better
Grounds on bottom!
There is actually no code for that. Having ground on the top in a tool shed is a safety feature. Something about dropped tools on plugs...
@@LandtoHouse It is standard or normal to have the ground on the bottom. However, I also install the ground on top for the same safety reason you mentioned. I'm just a Diy'er so I am not sure what is code or best, but I have been doing it that way for years ever since my family had a house professionally built in Maine and the electrician insisted it be done ground on top or he would not take the job. After he explained the reason I have been doing it ever since. Thanks for the vid. Just finished building my 6x8 shed for small workshop and planning to run elec next. I understand it is small but going to pack it full with all my tools which includefolding bench a table and chop/slide saw, router table, jointer/planner, compressor, vac and all my other wood working hand tools. For reasons that are not important, a 6x8 shed is what I built. Just finished today insulating the floor with 4" bluebeard (2 layers of 2") and after elec will insulate walls and ceiling. Have to get real creative to put that amount of tools in a tiny shed. But, I have the tools and did not have a shed. So it is better than nothing. Again, thanks for sharing your build.
Nick B. If you drop something on the plug or drop something that was plugged in the ground prong hits first it’s more of a safety feature since very few things if any will hit your plug from the bottom going up
@@LandtoHouse In the 70's/80's you could tell which home in a subdivision was the 'model' and agent office, because the plugs were all ground up so that the sales agents' answering machines wall plugs would sit correctly against the wall, cord coming out the bottom, and not be upside down and lean outward.
National electricians code dictates that wire must be staple within 12 inches of each box.......
+smoh4444 most of them had that. I went back and instated some staples.
Sorry to be that guy but there are a lot of code issues going on in this video. This would not pass an inspection.
There are definitely some code things going on. So far in two years it is worked very well as a tool storage
You may wanna get your lungs checked cause a healthy guy shouldn't be out of air from installing a few electrical outlets.
Can you point out the time in the video? Is it the long pauses between words? That is an annoying family trait. Haha
What’s the point of showing the world how to do this if you’re not doing it up to code?
This series of me showing how I build my little shed is just that. Showing how I build a shed. You will want to check your local government for code in your area.
Land to House I don’t know what you’re doing for your little sister and I don’t need to check the local codes, I could tell you without checking that some of the things are code violations according to the national electric code, they are minor put violations nonetheless. But my point was people are looking at this to learn how to do it and they’re getting wrong and potentially unsafe information.
Hopefully people watching youtube know that it is full of people doing their own thing.
@@LandtoHouse Mmmmm. No. If you're not up to code, I need to unsubscribe. Sorry man. All my wealth is in my property and it needs to be able to sell. Gotta go with the code.
Sure thing.
Code requirements that plugs with in 14” of the floor that the ground be up so that when you plug in the ground is first above 3 feet the ground is required on the down side for the same reason has NOTHING to do with dropping tools across a plug
Johnie Mullins not true
Leonard Holt : I hold two master’s license on in residential and one in commercial, hope the helll I know what I am talking about
That is interesting!
Johnie Mullins obviously you do not. You don’t even know the difference between a “plug” and a receptacle. Oh, and how about a code book reference, smart guy? Oh yea, there isn’t one.
Land to House no, he’s wrong. He pulled that out of his ass. Nowhere does it say that in the NEC.
You must be one hell of a chainsmoker to be always out of breath like that
Lol. Have you ever used a rode video mic pro? It picks up everything. Never have tried smoking.
Land to House - obviously not even a Dr can make a diagnosis without asking a patient about his health history or personal vises. :)
Haha yes. Perhaps ricke is a unique kind of doctor.
Your quite obviously Not A Electrician!
Please no more of this there are so many code violations it’s not even a joke at this point. Single plastic boxes must have a staple 6 in from box. 1/4 inch of insulation inside boxes. Your box is over filled that you uses as a junction box. where your wires enter your outlet boxes there is a maximum bending radius for the wires. I’m just trying to be informative.
I appreciate that. Are code requirements different from state-to-state? Because most people have indicated that the staple is 12in from the box.
Land to House I think it’s cause it’s a plastic box, with no clamp feature (removed) so code states 6 in from the box but don’t quote me on it bc I’m in Canada not US
That makes sense. The plastic in the box is annoying haha.
Nick 12" in NEC. US
Kevin Coop yea normally it’s within 12in but since the clamps were removed I don’t think it’s 12
You shouldnt film this and post it unless you title it "Building mistakes I make doing everything."
Thanks for watching. This is my first build. Learned a lot. Please take your knowledge of construction and share!
If only we all could be perfect like you, Tom.
Remember:
"If you can't say nuthin' nice, don't say nothin' at all"- Thumper
Pretty sloppy work and apparently didn't know what you were talking about or doing made things more complicated than they should be
It's a tool storage shed. :) works well for what it is.
@@LandtoHouse maybe but doesn't matter if it's a tool shed or multi million dollar home should still do the best possible job and hold to all codes to the best of your ability don't try to teach people something you don't know much about yourself especially when someone could get hurt or killed
Why is it you guys have to make yourself feel better by putting down folks that put up their video's? So you believe youtube video's are only for professionals to teach others? That is not true. It is just a video sharing what someone has done. It is not meant as educational, however it at times can be. So if you are a elec professional as you "appear" to be then make constructive criticism. Leave a comment to educate others that are watching. Or as my father used to say " if you have nothing good to say then don't say anything".
@@61spindrift could really care less about the work posted a comment just to prove that it seems that everyone is just ready for a fight , everyone is a know it all it doesn't matter what you do for a living you know more than the other guy,
Pokemon Hunter - But he did it with a good heart. You on the other hand, were not kind.
Hi Seth, nice work! I noticed you have wired your reciprocals in series in stead of parallel not an issue as long you are not exceeding the maximum load as the load is added up that way..
+Martijn Fransen thank you. Yes i don't plan on using more than one or two tools at a time. So I should be fine. If something changes in the future I could go back but I think this will be fine.
You could run the additional wires prevents you from opening up the wall..by the way best wishes for the new year
+Martijn Fransen that would help. But I think I'll be okay. I don't believe any of my tools in combination will come close to using the full amperage 4 voltage. As long as I keep till one or two at a time. I wonder if it would be beneficial to run a separate circuit from the sub panel to the air conditioner?
If I was you I would do that. In that way you would never have think about it. I don't know how much power your airconditiong draws.. here NL we have a 16 amp system standard with 230V the max is 3500 watt. So depending on your voltage and the power needed you can calculate if that is enough...P=I x U..(I is amps , U is Volt) with 4 amp system that is either 440W or 920W depending on you voltage....
+Martijn Fransen I have some 14/2 wire left so I will do that. The unit I will be installing is a small 5000btu. Should be fine on that 15 amp.