How To Rough In a Switch Box Feeding Lights & Outlets
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In this video we rip out, do up, & rough in, a single gang switch box that will also pass through power to some receptacles uninterrupted while also switching power to a couple of lighting fixtures. Hopefully this will give you a good idea of what that process looks like.
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0:00 - Switch Box Rough In Intro
0:38 - Labeling & Prep Work
1:50 - Stripping & Trimming The Cables
3:19 - Connecting Ground Wires (Pigtail)
6:56 - Connecting Neutral Wires (Pigtail)
9:29 - Connecting Hot Wires (Switch+Pass Through)
11:42 - Trimming Pigtails & Wire Summary
12:20 - NEC & Safety For Neutrals
13:11 - Switch Installation
17:54 - Completion
18:40 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
Blessings from Minnesota,
Ben
16 year sparky here
1) when pulling wire into the box, pull one tail extra long per gang. That gives you extra wire for pig tails at each box.
2) always lable your Romex. Not necessary if you're just going outlet to outlet, but if you have switches, it helps keep everything organized. It also gives you a ready made label after you strip.
3) linesman pliers make twisting easier.
4) an ECX bit makes driving the screws about easier. A Phillips bit is more likely to strip the head.
5) over all, great video. Pretty much every modern electrician agrees with not backstabbing, and I agree with the tape. We generally wrap kitchen outlets because the tile guys usually have to do backsplash, and I usually tape if it's in a metal box.
I just purchased my first lineman pliers. Can’t believe I’ve been doing my own electrical home improvement without them. They are very useful. And at Harbor Freight they only set me back $20. Good quality and heavy.
I always enjoy your vids. Real clear. Straightforward explanations. Real-world scenarios. I also like how neat your work is.
But the best part is how you do all this super-neat and professional work in those old houses. I started out in the midwest before I moved to California, where most of the houses are post-WWII vintage. There is nothing I like more or would have enjoyed doing more than modernizing the wiring in a 1900s farmhouse. Like, making it bright enough to actually work sun the basement. And all the wires are run parallel and square along the structural members. Like you do there.
Don't stop. Of course, there are a lot of paste-eaters in the trades too. The only thing they agree on is that you are doing it wrong. But you are doing it just right. You ought to do a 'This Old Wiring' with The Sparky Channel.
One of the better tutorials-thanks! I use a hook blade to slit the romex sheath, and diagonal cutters to cut off the pieces. I also use crimp connector on the grounds, leaving one (or more as needed) long to connect to the device(s), and leave that ground pigtail a bit longer as it has a loop in the end, but the other conductors sometimes do not. One other bit, when adding a pigtail, if you bend it instead of the rest of the wires, it helps to keep it even with the group, avoids bending the rest of the wires, which makes their ends uneven, and allows adding a bit of tension when twisting the wires, helping them lay together.
Excellent step-by-step video! In all the years I have done electrical work, I have never used the back stab method. My 15 year old house was back stabbed on every outlet and switch when done by the original electrician. I have found two switch bodies cracked at the back stab hole and both switches eventually failed because of back stabbing since the wires fell out of the switches. Using tape over the screws is a “belt and suspenders” safety approach and a personal preference of the installer.
A very thorough description of how to wire electrical connections. Thanks a lot.
Greetings! Thank you for all this amazing content! I am quite OCD, and seeing neat, tidy and labeled electrical work is a breath of fresh air. I almost was convinced to DIY a subpanel for my electric car (my main panel is FULL), but since I know it would have taken me days of work, I hired a professional that will do it in 4 hours. After that, I'll be installing all my new circuits into that box, and tidying up my old box as well.
This was by far the best wiring instructional video I've seen. I have been looking for this video all weekend
I have watched a million videos on this same topic, and hands down, this has been the best one I have seen. Very informative, good camera work. Keep it up, and cant wait to watch future videos.
Hey Scott, A million videos.... I've told you a billon times not to exaggerate.😊
A reason for taping over the connection screws even in a plastic box is to prevent contact with a bare grounding wire that may not be tucked well enough into the back of the box.
OMWord! I have watched COUNTLESS videos and this was the ONLY one that made complete sense AND was easy to follow!
Thank you !
Thanks Benjamin, always a pleasure to watch. You have helped me so much as a home owner.
Very helpful. Thank you fir the comments regarding the smart switches. I was wondering when it became standard for home wiring. Now knowing it is just a neutral wire I am not questioning my ability to install a smart switch.
Very understandable, love it! Next time use the holes in your wire strippers to make the loops, makes it soo much easier.
Always, always, great information, presented so professionally! I learn so much from the tips you provide.
Great teaching video on how to do it right. Clear and concise. Thks! Non-electrician / self-Home builder!
I watched so many videos... And you actually explained it perfectly to a average person like me! For the life of me... I could not understand why there are 3 black wires coming out of my electric switch. At 10:19 mark, it totally made sense 👍👍 Awesome video!
Great explanation. Also using electric tape is always a good practice! Keep up the good work! Thank you.
Thanks for this! You steered me right on a sleep deprived day after tripping my breaker and blowing up a switch.
Thanks you for sure make the best videos on TH-cam eazy to understand and just the facts not long winded. Thanks guy!! 😊
I have a pair of stripping pliers that also have sheathing cutters for 12 and 14 gauge romex. I usually cut the sheathing without removing it until it's in the box and I'm ready to make connections. It's fast, and makes a very clean install.
Good video. Quick easy to follow. I like the labeling owires in and out, also the tape on outside of switches.
Thankyou
Very thorough Benjamin.
Very thorough explanation. Thanks for the video.
Excellent video. Very informative and easy to understand. Thank you!
This is such a helpful video!! So many useful tips. Thank you!!
Linesman pliers will do the twist or pre-twist easier than the needle nose.
Yep, I'm so anal I like to grasp a bundle of wires with Vise-Grips to hold them in place about 1.5 inches where I twist with lineman pliers. Nice tight twist without creating a braid.
Klein makes a wire stripper with a fatter head to serve the same purpose as the linesman pliers. They look weird, but you only need one tool to do the job.
@@cfgdr3 I have their hybrid pliers with the grey handles that also have the stripping holes.
@@illestofdemall13 How do you like them? Are they worth the money? I'm on the fence still? But I really like the idea of having one tool to do the job.
@@cfgdr3 They are pretty cool but I rarely use them. I like the idea of multi tools but sometimes I go back to doing things the way I have been doing them for years.
i would never do it that way. yes it will work BUT think about this. it’s night, the lights are turned on you plug something into those outlets and it trips the breaker for some reason, then you are left in the dark because the circuit you tripped is also on the light circuit. you should always keep your lighting circuits and outlet circuits on separate circuits.
That's why we calculate the load before we install for it.
Ceiling fan with light, plus 8 receptacles on 20a GFCI\AFCI dual , for 1 bedroom is just fine.
It even has room for a 150cfm fart fan for blunt tokers.
I agree with keeping lighting circuits separate from outlets when possible. I use a lable maker at my panels and like to label my lighting breakers in one color and outlets in another. In the case of my own home all labels are black ink, but outlets are white background and lighting circuits are yellow background.
@@cfgdr3 That's a good idea with label maker and good advice about isolation of the two when feasible.
I'm not an electrician, but I get your point. If it's not done initially, I don't see how it can be changed without a complete rewiring.
I don't think separating lighting circuits from receptacle circuits is commonly done even in modern homes. From what I've seen at electrical panels, if marked, it's always by room or location and not by separating switches and receptacles. As long as the expected load is less than the circuit breaker and wire gauge you should be good.
All my rooms have a fan light on one circuit and led lights on a separate circuit. I drop my power feed for each rooms LED lights to a box in the basement labeled so I can isolate each room if I need to troubleshoot an arc fault. Since LEDs are 7 watts each I then run a single home run, 14/2 back to the panel.
PS As Benjamin suggested on another video I also connect my Smoke Detectors to the LED light circuit. If I lose my Smoke Detector Power I will know because lights are off. I have separate circuits fir fan lights in every room so I’m not in the dark in case of problems.
You are a good teacher. Thanks for sharing
Wow. How detailed and helpful!!!!
Thanks for this great demo and the clear explanations.
Thank you! Great refresher!
I definitely like the way you make up the box in the order I do as well, get the grounds outta the way first and then pack them in back of box, then same with neutrals, last is hot wires then you only have the wires hanging out of the box you are going to need for the switch with the exception of the neutral tail for future use if you tailed one. My comment on the plug in back wire method is it may be fine for low current draw applications such as a few lights and you don’t add a bunch of lights at a later date. Some people use that method for duplex receptacles and I have found circuits that had eventually burned the inside of the switch wire contact points to the point the circuit became an open circuit burned and not allowing any current to pass through the receptacle and the insulation on the wires charred. Luckily a fire wasn’t started that burned the place up!
Really great video. Thanks for the easy and clear explanation.
You are the man, your wirenuts have wings, no back stabbing and proper wire direction on the screw terminals. I would have no problem working with you on an electrical project.
Some electricians using cordless drill to twist nuts, which can damage insulation. In old houses with aluminium wiring electricians used soldering iron to cover twisted wires with stannum because wire nut could easily damage aluminium conductor.
Some tip to future: always leave ground wire slightly longer than load ones - if somebody casually hook or pull the cable, ground wire still be connected as it is longer than hot and neutral.
during the ruff in stage when you have two grounds in a box tie both onto crews don't cut until final installation of receptacle or switch, if you tuck the conductors deep in the box and then leave grounds at front creating a shield for the conductors in case the drywallers hit the box with cut out tool...
Dmitry, it should be noted that "electrical equipment" (switches, receptacles, and yes wire nuts) must be rated and approved for use.
If you have aluminium wire, ensure your parts are rated for aluminium or both copper and aluminium.
This guy is amazing. The perfect how to video. I would subscribe twice if I could. And such clean wire management. Such clean work. You have to love mild OCD. My guess is he is a third generation electrician.
I personally would make the home run wire longer than the other two when installing. The reason is so I can use the grounding wire from the extra length of it. Cut all conductors and the other two grounding wires to length, leaving the HR grounding wire long. Then use a “greenie” to twist the grounding wires with the HR one sticking out to terminate on the device (switch).
And if necessary use the black and/or white for pig tails.
With wire in my state doubling in prices in the last month. Tossing the scrap isn’t much of an option now.
I would of made a drip loop
@My Name the pros too busy pulling wire and reading blueprints to make YT vids lol.
Wago type plug in connectors really simplify the process and allow the switch or outlet to be pre wired on the bench in bulk and easily “plugged in “ when ready. And they also eliminate the need for pigtails. The cost is well worth the convenience. IMO. Excellent content. Thanks for the video. ✌🏻🇺🇸
Wago type plugs is for lazy people!
@@dtm8073 well like my dad always said “work smarter not harder”. I suppose by this way of thinking nail guns and power saws of all kinds are also for “lazy” people. Good luck with your build!
@@tallpaul8880 You get a much more secure and reliable connection with wire nuts. I agree with your father about working smarter not harder. Nail guns and power saws are definitely ok, I never said they were for lazy people. Cheers!
@@dtm8073 agree with your points. The new and improved wagos have a lock lever design that has improved the connection over the push in type. They are widely used in commercial and residential construction and proven. ✌🏻
Wago 221 are great and just as reliable as a wire nut. Anyone who does electrical and doesn’t know that is ignorant. People get so stuck on the old way of doing things they can’t fathom that a newer way could be just as good if not better.
The little holes on your wire strippers can be used to create the "hooks" to attached to the switch's screws.
There are screwdrivers made with handles that will twist most wire nuts??
Thanks for the video. Need to learn this From my hill top in. Sc.
Great job. Well done. I only tape with metal boxes
You can also use the hole on the stripper that’s normally used to cut 6-32/8-32 screws to help make the loop on the wire to attach to screw on device
Those strippers have a hole just for looping the hooks.
Well illustrated.
Thanks, very informative.
perfect timing i want to do the same set up in my moms attic for a switch and outlet.
Very helpful. Thank you.
The Southwire (Romex) stripper is SO nice for 12/2 and 14/2 wire. Highly recommend it.
Thanks very clear and concise.
love your videos, super clear and easy to follow. However, this is the first and only time i have ever seen someone put a switch on the ceiling. Is that even allowed by code?
Great video! Thank you
Great video
Hey Benjame thank you for coming back
Excellent video!
There is a hole in the side of the wire strippers to insert your wires to make the J-hook easier. Just a thought. Insert and turn outward and you'll make an ideal J-hook that will fit easily around the screw terminal.
Good point but he may have found like me, that it makes the hook a touch too big.
Thanks helped me out!!
Back stab connection is done if you use 14 Awg wire and since it is spring loaded it will become loose in time, so making a hook and go around the screw clockwise is always a better installation.
I always wrap electrical tape around the receptacle screws so if I push it in or pull it out its safer as far as a circuit being on & it holds it all in place when you push it all in the box.
I am an industrial electrician with 30 years experience
1) Never! Ever use the stab in the back connections.! Always a problems waiting to happen.
2) Always twist the wires before putting on the wire nut again problems waiting to happen especially on 20+ amp circuits
3) Standard practice is the hot connects to the top of the stitch
4) Tape on the device is generally not necessary and a nuisance and messy when servicing
* Around here conduit is required even for single family homes (as it should be)
Excellent! Thank you for sharing your experience!
You're in the Chicagoland area, I bet! I love that they use EMT and steel boxes. Very professional and extremely safe, not to mention highly configurable and expandable to fish new lines in the future.
@@aaron74 and keeps the number of hacks down
@@monteglover4133 Yes and it keeps electrician employment high, too. I wish it were the practice all around the country.
@@aaron74 The only time I ever get shocked is when I arrive to someone's old house with flicker problems and has live conduit ready to cook an egg that I have to trace.
I definitely recommend taping the switch if using metal boxes.
That appears to be plastic...
@@shadowopsairman1583 DUH! If you would listen to the video, he mentioned taping the switch if you are using metal boxes.
Taping is for people who do t know what the hell they are doing
@@paulbogden7391 its code if using metal boxes where I'm at
Only if you’re filling a box to capacity. Once the ground is correctly pushed to the back of the box there is little risk of anything shorting.
Great video. Do you have any videos of installing a meter box on brick?
You should never use a blade that high on the wire incase you cut the wire usually u want to cut towards the end of the wire and pull the wire and insulation apart. But amazing work buddy keep it up!
For inexperienced people, you're right. But once someone knows how much pressure it takes to cut sheathing, they can go as deep as they want as long as they start with minimal pressure at the beginning of the cable, which is what Ben does
I've seen it all you can't judge if you want to teach then teach the correct way don't talk. Walk the walk. God bless you.👍🙏
@@aurvaroy6670 facts. I personally like to pinch the side whit pliers and pull off a pice and it works but some time I'm force to use the utility blade and is not like you going to put pressure on it as long as you make a line whit out pushing down you can strip it off
Thank you for a great video real helpful
Very good video, thank you.
I always do the neutrals first. I put them in the very back and out of the way because they are usually unnecessary except in scenarios like you have mentioned. Then i do the grounds and so on..
I'm surprised you didn't use the automatic stripper. Very helpful video.
I had to troubleshoot a GFI circuit that went through multiple bathrooms in a townhouse. Two outlets worked fine, but the last in the chain didn't. I initially thought that the hot wire was broken or a rat had gnawed through it (there had been a rat problem in this townhouse before). I noticed that the installer used the stab connections on the outlets, so I thought I'd correct that anyway. Putting the wires on the screw terminals solved the problem.
Seek and replace any stab-back receptacles and switches. If I find them at a residential site, I will tell the home owner that the complete house needs fire safety updated.
They are highly dangerous after some age. They may cause wall fires, heat, arcing, or intermittence and melt down.
Fire safety updating is full replacement of all receptacles with new Legrand tamper resistant receptacles, new PS Legrand switches or better, all ceiling light boxes re-wired, cleaned up, new nuts plus fire tape on the nuts.
Main panel: Bonding screw = Installed. Isolate neutrals 1 per screw. Make sure hots are 1 per screw on breakers.
Grounds are 2-3 per screw.
Subpanel: bonding screw = Removed. Ground and Neutral busbars must be separate in Subpanel. Only 1 hot per screw on breaker and 1 common per neutral busbar screw.
Any new circuits added are AFCI\GFCI dual.
A panel that is showing signs of being loose and janky, will be replaced with a 200 amp panel for the same cost of 100amp.. Not much different at all. I just did a panel replacement for a 100amp service where the house power shut off randomly but the 100amp breaker stayed on and buzzed for 5 minutes until it would turn back on by itself.
They let it do that for about 8 years. Wow..
I won't get into the cost of adding emergency disconnect service on the exterior or home surge protection when doing a panel replacement but it varies from arm to leg.
What if you need to add one more switch (i.e. for a fan) to this setup? Thanks for the help and great video.
As always, wonderful explanation. Thanks
Same goes for GFI's that are wired to protect receptacles down stream. Line comes in cable next to stud. Load goes out other knock out. You can mark the load with a short striped off insulation on the black and white. The neutrals do not wire nut together. Completely independent on one another. Back of GFI receptacle is labeled to make it easy to figure out. Be sure not to get your neutrals interchanged with the black wires. They have to pair up with their corresponding black conductor coming out of the Romex sheath.
One of the methods we use is all your "hots" (power in and power out) are installed in the knock out closest to the framing stud. This allows for as many as 4 romexes. 2 in the knock out on top and 2 in the knock out on bottom. The rest of the openings will be used for the switch legs. Using this method you won't have to be identifying which wires are what. If you want to do that, we make it a rule to identify the switch leg. Some guys like to put little crimp marks on the switch leg. We strip back the black wire just a little. Crimp marks are hard to see.
WOW, that was amazing and I just found out I've been making my hooks wrong since 1995. LOL
Good job mate 👍
Damn, actually thinking about Smart Switch in future. I want this guy as my electrician!
I can't say that I always remember to tape the screws off but I try to do it if I think of it regardless of the style of the box. I had a USB receptacle that I hooked up in a relatively new house (2012). About 6 months later the circuit started tripping out of nowhere. Turns out that the ground wire was sitting out too close to the hot terminal and caused a trip to occur. Once I learned about taping the receptacle after that I tried to do it as often as I could remember to. Yeah putting the wires in a better location might have done the same thing, but you can never trust yourself to do everything perfectly. One more brick up on the wall helps the whole thing stay up better.
great video very explanation
Great vid
This is exactly what I needed. Wiring for fan and receptacle was on same switch which is what I did not want.
Excellent work and explanation.
Thank you
In new construction for example building a house, I would never mix lighting and receptacle circuits, its ok if your adding something in years later and would have to cut tons of drywall to get a feed back to the panel, but as a general rule don't mix lighting and receptacle circuits, and now with the arc fault breakers sometimes they don't like switches, things can get messy real quick after the dry wall goes up and now that light switch keeps tripping the arc fault breaker....
When I wire up the projects for my clients (sheds, garages, etc.) I always separate the lighting from the receptacles. Not a fan of daisy chained circuits.
That’s a waste. I wire to waste the least material and never overload a circuit. There are very few problems with arc breakers now. If you have problems with switches on arcs it’s because you screwed up your neutrals most likely. The only problems I see with arcs are plugged in devices having an issue. But, I know how to splice.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 if your suggesting separating lighting and receptacles are a waste of material, fine so be it, better looking at it then looking for it, most of the stuff I build is Custom homes and mixing lighting circuits is not an option, as a lot of it is controlled by smart controllers not light switches, and the arcing at switches is not a neutral problem at all, its the switch itself, but whatever if your building a shed it dosn't really matter but when your building a home it makes all the difference in the world to lay out circuits separating lighting loads from general receptacles and its just a good wiring practice, I really don't understand your resistance to it other than the notion of saving material, and as I said earlier better be safe than sorry having to rip drywall to run a new wire, and that not fun, I hope we can agree at least on that, have a good day,
@@stankahuna5271 we do custom homes, but with regular switches, dimmers and controls that work with arc breakers. So I don’t see the point in wasting wire to keep outlets and lighting separate. If you don’t put your lighting on arcs because they trip, maybe you need to buy better devices or learn to rough and splice better.
@@KitchenerLeslie2 thats twice now you have doubled down on a stupid ideal and twice now that you have questioned my workmanship, clearly your an idiot, you can take your ancient wiring methods and go build an outhouse
I don’t use back-stab connections because they get loose over time and heat up. I had one melt at my grandma’s house behind her fridge and cause a small fire. I think back-stab connections ought to be outright banned in the NEC. This is part of the reason I don’t use residential grade receptacles/switches, only commercial/industrial grade. The higher grade receptacles/switches lack the back-stabs for a very good reason.
Also, I always wrap my switches/receptacles with 33 tape from 3M.
Are junction boxes still used to wire bedroom outlets?
Always do a Courtesy wrap on all switches and receptacles.
BS!! That's not necessary. Do you wrap them while they're hot?? If so, do you unwrap them while they're hot??
Thank you. You got one more subscriber today :)
Thanks!
This was very helpful. Thank you. I think the wires in my outdoor outlet were damaged by the cutting off of the sheathing, or the pulling of them from inside to outside. And inside the outdoor box, the wires were poorly pushed into the box, which showed a dent on the back of the 15A GFCI outlet outside. Don't blame me! I'm a first time townhome owner watching TH-cam's to solve this myself.
The above begins with a 20A breaker, but the circuit/line leads to just a couple 15A receptacles inside the breakfast nook. But it gets more complicated because the prior owner extended the last outlet through the wall to outside where he added two 15A GFCI receptacles (one leading to the next) to plug in a water softener at the end of the chain.
Several trips to Lowe's and I'm still confused on what to do, and have gotten conflicting advice. So I decided to try to educate myself.
I face a choice: do I switch every receptacle to 20A or 15A depending on whether the wires I find are 12/2 or 14/2, respectively?
PS. The outside outlets ceased to work after a storm and the first 15A GFCI outlet then read OPEN NEUTRAL--I could see the white wire inside was exposed to the humidity/condensation when I inspected.
Use a 15 amp spec grade duplex receptacle regardless of whether wire gauge is 12 or 14. This is the same as the 20 amp without the horizontal slot. Same for gfci. There is no reason to use a 20 amp duplex receptacle in a residence.
Great video Ben , can you do a video on a 5-2-1 hard start for an outdoor A/C Plz 🙏
Those a easy but why do you need one? I thought he’s an electrician not a HVAC Technician. Unless he wears many hats?
Best ever
It was helpful, but how do you do the same process but with two switches?
When I join wires together on my buildings I wrap electrical tape over the wire nuts in the same direction with the nuts. Just as added insurance that the nuts don't back off the wires. Or at least have to fight the tape to do so. Only because I've changed out outlets and switches in the past and have had old or existing ones fall off when I pulled the outlet or switch out of the box to change. I've had a couple of mine come off as well where it was a tight fit with the wires and I prob didn't get the nut as tight as I could have. Haven't had an issue when backed up with the tape as of yet though. I like the clamp style connections on the switch/outlet. The regular screw I've seen a few times someone has tightened it and the wire squeezed out enough where it eventually popped off the screw. I've also had to break the some old outlets trying to get the wire out of the backstabs. I don't understand what the danger of using them are since they are directly connected to the screw connector and are designed where you'd pull one out of the screw long before you'd pull it out of the backstabs. Maybe I'm missing something. I personally don't see how they pose a problem.
Ben, why do some single pole switches have a ground and some don’t?
Where as receptacles all ways have a ground.
I would wrap it in electrical tape not only because the electrical box is metal but also if there’s more wires like in 3 gang box where you would have multiple switches. I’d like the ground to stay back as far as possible and for it not to accidentally touch anything else. The tape just gives me peace of mind.
If you have a box with 5 wires coming in to it and two are attached to different light switches (one switch has a red wire the other is a single pole light switch). The single pole feeds the outside porch light and the other (with red wire) feeds the ceiling lights and is connected to the switch at bottom of stairs. The third wire coming in is a hot wire coming from the breaker panel. But there is another wire ( #5) which feeds something and it appears to be going to wall receptacles. Is there a way to test wire #5 to be sure what it is feeding. Wire #5 has a black, white and ground wire whose black wire was pig tailed into the Live (Hot) wires. It appears to be a wall receptacle to me but is there a way to be sure?
I’ve never found a loose twisted wire connection in a wire nut. I have found loose wires in untwisted connections. I noticed the loose ground swinging around in the ground bundle.
I make my loop or hook longer than you did in the video. I then take my strippers and close the loop before I tighten the screw. This gives a very neat and secure connection that will never fail.
Do you think using a crimp Style terminal connector and attaching those to outlets is fine?
Great little vid Benji ... Well demonstrated ...
That was pretty good. First video ive seen that you took a sharpie and wrote on the wire, what it was.
The only thing different I would do is use a metal cover plate, since it's located in a rough area and not on a finished wall. It was good to follow your procedure and compare with my own.
Obviously you dont know what you're talking about
I know in Minnesota it's code to have a metal cover, well the code thing is what the state inspector said.....
Plates now are made of a pliable plastic that won't crack or break, especially if you tighten the little screw too much. It sucks to install a ,4 gang switch plate and then you overtightened the last screw and the plate breaks.
Nice!
I’ve been doing some of my own electrical work (replacing lights, receptacles, fans, and switches) on my rental property. I’ve noticed the heavy gauge wires are tough to stuff back in the electrical box. Is it possible that I might break one or more of the wires pushing them back into the box?
Can this be done with a standard double gang box with two switches?