#6 THHN Red, Black, and White and #10 Green: geni.us/nxyg Sub Panel: geni.us/6BIfs DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
As an electrical guy, we get to install what the customer wants inside code. I would encourage a homeowner in this situation to consider larger conduit. With all that digging and concrete cutting and all, it was only a 60 Amp panel. With electric cars needing a 50 Amp circuit, upsizing th pipe will allow the 60 Amp wire to be used to pull in a larger wire for the electric car without re-digging. A power up-grade would just need to pull larger wire and swap the panel for a larger one. Also, consider 2 or 3 extra pipes while the trench is open.....maybe a hard-wire server or security cameras or some kind of diner bell/distress warning system (flashing light for high noise areas). Love the work Joel.
@victornaja7927 there is a load calculation in the National Electrical Code chapter 2 i think section 220 (not by my book). That can be used to calculate the loading expected on a sub panel or to a house. This is the section that expects some loads not to work when others are running (a/c running, no need for heat). The panel installed should be able to handle at least that much load. You can go bigger, not smaller. So, a 100 Amp breaker and 100 amp supply can feed into a 125 panel, but all the supplying breakers should be sized for the wire supplying, including the isolation input breaker in the panel. So, some lights and a car charger, can have less amps than a workshop and car charger. In this video, I think it would be okay if I remember correctly. However, I would encourage you to involve a pro to at least make sure you get the correct stuff for your project. PS. I always recommend bigger conduit and multiple conduits for future upgrades and things like security, internet, and maybe a warning light for trouble in the house. A light can be "heard" over any noise. While your trench is open, you can drop in many pipes and cap them off for future use or..... re-dig later?
Thank you. I'm a diy to the core. I'm planning to build my garage n as I'm trying to figure out the sub box n cable I'm already preparing to to have pipe fir ethernet cable n separate pipe fir electric
@victornaja7927 I often recommend getting a pro involved. You can involve them only at the level where they advise you and allow you to do everything yourself. (I understand very well both the self pride and joy in doing things yourself) They may have solution to problems you do not know you will have.....do you need an external disconnect on the building, type of wires to run, and more. One man called his "barn" an agricultural building for taxes or building money discounts. That title enacts extra electrical requirements and has its own electrical section. Again, while the trench is open, consider a bigger conduit.....(200 amps). This will allow major upgrades no matter the panel load you install today. Extra pipes for cable tv (waiting room), internet for sales, security cameras, dinner bell (flashing light), etc. It is easy to drop in an extra pipe and put string/rope in it today and easily pull in what you want/need tomorrow....minus extra digging. Hope you have a good build.
I was watching this and thought hey you just tied your neutral and grounds together, that's not right. Then you fixed it. Thanks for showing us all of this including your mistakes. We are all human and constantly learning. Great video and collab.
Excellent Job all the way around, I found it very interesting at 15:13 regarding the expansion and contraction of the conduit due to seasonal warming and cooling. Brushing up for some out-building wiring jobs. Your tips are golden! Another pro-tip for some extensive digging and excavating small scale, buy used equipment that runs well, keep it as long as you need it, and then sell it off after the job is complete, It's far cheaper than renting for several weeks. :)
This was probably the most perfectly explained and detailed video I’ve ever watched! It wasn’t overwhelming at any point. Just specific and explained very very well. Great video!
I've been doing a mountain of research for exactly the same project. This is far and away the most informative video I have watch about doing a subpanel job
Kudos for citing N.E.C. So many folks on videos just say or show how to do things. Citing N.E.C fully with numbers gives great reference points for others to go do more research.
He is good teacher on the labor part, but regarding code i would recommend an actual code instructor. Some of the stuff that he claims is code isnt actually code.
Amazing work. I did the same thing but an easier run in 2019. One thing I would definitely suggest is to run an extra piece of conduit (I did 3/4 and 1.25" for my needs), the extra piece being for Ethernet wires for POE powered cameras and connecting to my big inverter on my main solar array (data tracking, updating). May be great to have a WiFi access point in the garage or cameras or future needs and just keep it empty! Oh, and one safety thing not mentioned - if you get an SDS max hammer drill to do large drilling, be extra careful that it doesn't bind and twist on you - that can break your arm off! Didn't happen to me but I used one for drilling 4-5" hole through 2 cinderblock walls at work and man the thing was crazy powerful. Only power tool that scared me to use a bit, even with being careful.
@@anthonywinters3288 lol I have a Harbor freight one actually, but I paid for the 'good' one, not the $10 one. I use hammer drills a lot but the massive ones are beasts and the twisting can be dangerous.
@@anthonywinters3288 I have an orange HF grinder that is noisy as hell but absolutely will not die. It’s about 15 years old and has not let me down yet.
You totally threw me off, thinking this was gonna be an Electric Pro Academy video, seeing Joel in the thumbnail, then when I clicked it, seeing you with Everyday Home Repairs. Between you two, Stud Pack, Dustin Stelzer's two channels with Electrician U, and a few others, I am so in love with learning all this stuff about electrical!
This was one of the crazy things I ran into, in the Midwest back in the 70’s. The previous owner had to post a bond to my mortgage company, for his wiring to the detached garage. He burned up the UG wire, and just ran wires overhead. I tried to get a Homeowners permit, couldn’t because it wasn’t part of the “Home.” Put the Sub-panel in the Cellar where the Boiler was. Had an Electrician pull the wiring permit to the garage. I did the digging and most of the work. Passed inspection and got the Bond money. In the end it worked out better.
Joel, in Arizona we don’t license electricians, only electrical contractors. So, if a master electrician were to move here from say Indiana, and want to pull wire on his own, he would first have to get a contractors license, post a bond, get a business license before doing any work that required a permit or cost more than $1500. The local junior college runs a two year certificate program but after graduation, you’d still have to work op for a contractor before going out on your own.
This was an extremely helpful video! The host doing all the work and talking is amazing at explaining everything and giving us tips. Overall a 10/10 video and I appreciate the work that went into this for all of us!!!
Pro tips from Mr Underground. Don't always use fittings for bends. On the bend by the drainage pipe you could have easily dug a sweeping curve and eliminated 90% of the drag when pulling wire. Same with the 45s approaching the garage. Also, that trench isn't 18" deep :) Also, I think it would be easy enough to "shoot" that wide sidewalk instead of removing and replacing the concrete. Dig the trench at the proper angle and depth (where the drain pipe was). Glue a male adapter and brass spray nozzle on one end of a piece of PVC and a hose adapter on the other. Lay it LEVEL in the trench and start working it through. If it is hard soil, let it sit for 30 seconds if and work it forward. Repeat as necessary. In 10 minutes, your pipe is under the walk. It's messy but quick and cheap. I learned that in the olden days installing irrigation systems. I don't know all the details but I may have chosen to come from the main panel. It's easy enough to make a couple spaces by moving two circuits to the original sub. But, it was probably a mess in there and easier to use the sub. I'm old and retired and came here to bust your balls, but I can't. I'll give you a 10 out of 10 :)
How would moving existing circuits from the main to the sub be easier? The wires are already cut to length. It looked like it was Romex. Moving a bunch of wires around doesn't sound like fun. I don't know what the point would be.
This was great I was looking for a video to wire 240 to my garage these guys have the panel in the garage already easy work... I am going to have to do some digging since I'm doing that might as well do a subpanel. The price you quoted surprised me
Great video! So I was watching when the sub panel in the house was being wired and I thought to myself "I thought that since this was a sub panel grounds and neutrals were supposed to be separate" and sure enough he called it out as a mistake - AWESOME! What a great way to reinforce that concept (if he didn't actually do it by mistake).
I actually did a similar project myself a few weeks ago, good to see we almost did it completely properly. I opted to lay UF cable underground because that turned out to be a fair bit cheaper than getting separate conductors and conduit, and it skips the hassle of pulling cable all that distance.
Man this is awesome. Thank you for the step by step with simple explanation as to why things are done per code. Helps me understand for sure. Great video.
this is the best video on this subject, the other ones i saw the guys were hem-hawing around and telling their life stories and interjecting non essential info. also i thought you needed to put a ground rod outside the new box in the garage.
Thanks. Should mention that call 811 system for public utility location. Was contemplating a 75 foot buried extension for an RV pad. Gave me a ton to think about. Down here in Central Texas the frost line isn’t an issue. But ground shifting between dry and wet a deal that would force a gravel base to the trench on my run which has a 10 foot drop in the run.
Now that's an interesting thought! I really like it as a measure to prevent damage. Do you think that because it's typically 2-4 feet it's worth the expense of an expansion joint or would it be a prudent business measure to relegate expansion joints to longer runs? What's your current practice?
@@joelwalsman773 Its code in my area, my underground service required an expansion joint where it goes into the hose, though at the pole it was not needed. I think it is also related to earthquakes prone areas too. He also explained how the PVC expands in the sun it probably would help there too. Perhaps it is only required at the service entrance and not for sub-panel. I would have installed one on the house and garage there is a lot of mass in both those foundations and he only went 18" into the ground.
@@joelwalsman773 Oh well then you would know if they were needed in your application... Yes you would not bury an expansion joint... I am not an electrician, my inspector only made me put an extra clamp to secure it to the building.
Heres a question for you. My garage is a metal building kit. The building dept had me tie a ground to the rebar in the foundation. What are the connection points for that ground along with the 2 ground rods? Does the foundation ground tie to the ground rods then the ground rods to the panel ? Or the foundation ground to the panel ground and the two ground rods to the panel ground as well. Then I'll also have the ground from the main house panel to the sub panel as well !? OR. does the foundation ground tie to the metal garage frame and continue on to the sub panel ?
Local rental stores are absolutely the way to go. We rented a stump grinder from home depot and it was missing 1 of 3 cutting teeth. Took it back and every one they had was missing at least one tooth. Went to our local rental store and the guy rented us this absolute beast of a stump grinder on tracks and a hydraulic cutting head. It even came with its own trailer, and it maybe cost $10 more. What started out as us removing one stump, turned into 15+ trees because that first stump took us 10 minutes and we wanted to get our money's worth.
I always laugh when people get upset at how much a contractor is going to charge them, but they’ve never watched a video like this and realize how much work and knowledge is involved.
Thought was good video.. clear .. nice clean job! Seen other comments that said negatives… tend stay on the positive note… keep on my man!! Def learned from it!
Joel, that cut you made of the conduit stub out from the house was angled with the reciprocating saw, doesnt allow for full seating of the pipe when glued into the LB conduit body and as you said the weakest point in the connections, but thank you again for sharing the install of this job!!
(~20:30) Although considerably more laborious, would it be possible and allowable to just go conduit by conduit, and put the wire through the sweep, then glue and attach the next length of conduit, pull to the next point, glue and attach the next bend/elbow, pull the next stretch of wire, etc., until finally making it to that 360° completion point? Or is there a reason that one HAS to glue all the conduit together first, THEN push/pull the wire run?
I see what you are saying but this idea is never done for many reasons. Now if you were using a different material like Smurf tube people will pull the wire in before making bends because Smurf tube is so hard to get wires through. Trust me, feel free to lay the conduit where you want it and then fish the wires through. It is the only way to go. •keep bends as few as possible no more than 365° •if you have more than 365° of bend, add a pull point such as a junction box. •follow the correct depth to bury. I believe this is 300.5 of the NEC. •add expansion pieces as called for for expansion and contraction. •Secure and strap as called for for the material you are using.
Regarding the ~3:20 part about the cover on the panel, @Joel/@Electric Pro Academy, would there be any problems with adding a bit of a ledge/support as like just a flat board underneath and along the bottom of the panel's cover, onto the nailer board (if one's house has it), just to make the removal of the panel cover that much less straining and dangerous?
Great video. My only question would be how you got around 225.31-.33 where this structure would require a means of disconnect for the subpanel? Usually, you'd use a backfed 60A DP breaker or a panel with a main breaker (any rating >60A) to serve as the disconnect, not a lug panel. Is there an outside disconnect (required in some areas) we didn't see?
Thank you! The requirements of 225.31-.33 aren't in effect in our jurisdiction so I can't say that they're even on my radar. Really good NEC call out and thank you for that! Please consider jumping over to EPRO and contributing your insights to our conversations. Good work!
@26:10 he states the main lugs in the existing sub panel are energized, which is surprising because you'd think they were fed from the existing main panel at a breaker that could be switched off
This is the best explanation of this project I've seen. But, you didn't demonstrate or explain the connecting of the ground rod. I assume that's what you're connecting at 24:20.
Super thoughtful video. You can use a rod push system to avoid cutting the drive. Cable pulling lube is essential for making pulls easier. Step drill, will be getting one now!
Had to pull SEU for my dad from our panel to his new workshop about 200ft away. Even lubed up it still took two grown men pulling in unison to get it to go.
Love your step by step explanation style! You do good work! I’ve done a lot of electrical projects over many years, electrical engineer, Army trained electrician, many DIY projects. One question about your cable pull step: why deal with the struggle of the heavy pull? You could simply run the cable through each 10’ section of conduit and then lay it in the trench with no pulling? Your thoughts? Thanks! Dan
Really good step-by-step. Noticed two grounds at the sub-panel, one (green wire) obviously comes from the main along with the two hots and neutral. I'm assuming the bare copper ground wire came from a separate ground rod outside of the second structure. Can someone verify please?
Great video full of information. My question is how do you compensate for drainage around the foundation of the house? On my house the drainage at the back of the house where I have to run the conduit is at the 24 inch depth.
Awesome video I'm doing something similar & love to find videos that support my project. Fortunately I only need a trench less than 30 ft every thing else is inside. Yes it will be in PVC inside & out.
If the sub panel is for an attatched garage do you tie the ground from the main panel or are you creating a new ground in the sub panel with additional grounding rods? I am looking to add 240 to my garage for my tools.
I have a question I have a meter combo that is 200 amps and has 4 spaces. Out of those 4 spaces, 1 is available. Is it possible to run the 4 breakers in that panel to a sub-panel net to it? Put a 200 amp breaker in the combo meter panel. To power the 200amp sub.
The install was excellent! The electrician has been doing commercial work! Residential is “120/240 volt Single Phase 3 wire system”. Single phase, not 2 phase. There is no phase A and phase B. It is Line 1 and Line 2. Respectfully, Kevin
I did not see what you used to connect to the your electrical cable before you pulled it through (I watched twice). Did you have an electrical snake or just some bare wire you purchased? When and how did you push it through?
Good video. Good you mentioned checking for utilities. In my state,Dig Safe (covers 5 states in NE) will check for all utilities and other cables (ISP cable services) that are underground. I installed an independent ground for my solar panel/turbine set up, Dig Safe was very thorough.
3:30- Your electrician failed to state to the audience that just shutting the sub-panel's main breaker off, DOES NOT totally remove power from the box. He should have went over to the main breaker box and shut off the breaker that feeds the sub-panel.
Great video! thanks for sharing. I have a somewhat different situation. I have my main, basement panel as a sub panel from a newly installed 200amp upgrade in the garage. The garage is attached to the house with wires running under a concrete slab. Is it possible to use the existing 1.5" conduit running under the slab, for a 30 amp power backup from an inverter located in the garage? Sadly, the primary 200amp panel has about 3 circuits on it while the original basement panel is fully loaded. any suggestions, folks?
Do have to call before you dig the trench? Natural gas,city water supplier? Also can be hang wire above ground. In Canada you have to call before you dig.
In most areas, you can call 811, or you can dig around for an online website. That will cover everything. It's free for homeowners, and the utilities have a timeline to mark their stuff (usually 2 weeks.) If you hit something that isn't marked, it's on the utility. If you don't call and hit something, it's on you. Pretty dumb not to use the free service.
This was an amazing walkthrough of the process. But how did you get your tiny pull wire through the 70 feet of conduit to attach to your conductors for that pull?
Your fish tape should easily run through the conduit to hook up to the THHN. This definitely can be a little more difficult as the number of 90’s increase in your conduit.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I haven't done this myself, but I would imagine you could also attach your lead to something magnetic, and use a strong magnet from outside the conduit to help "pull" it along in case pushing isn't working or it gets stuck in a corner. Just the lead though, no way it's going to get your THHN through.
I want to install a garage panel that will feed outlets in the garage and my Tesla charger. 60 amps is nominal for the charger. So would I put in a 60 amp in the main panel to feed the secondary, or would I need to go bigger? Also, wouldn't I need 4AWG for a 60 amp instead of 6AWG?
Assuming your original service is 200 amps I would run the sub off a 80 or 100 amp breaker. Use #4 copper wire or more commonly used #2 aluminum wire to feed the sub panel.
Great work! A few questions: I see you used THHN through out so cable buried in a conduit is not considered wet? Why pull after the conduit is buried wouldn't running cable through with the conduit in pieces be easier? Is it to avoid getting glue on the wire? Does the same hold true for Ridged Metal Conduit? So few videos showing DIY RMC... is it that much harder to thread and bend?
Hey there Scott, first, thanks for sharing this video. Now, my question. In the video where you put a subpanel near (next to) the main, you run the subpanel supply CB at the main panel. Yet in this case I see the subpanel main breaker is located in the subpanel, not the main panel. What gives? Thanks in advance. Daniel
Just wondering; when you checked the subpanel and had voltage between hot to ground, I found that in my detached garage. I didnt know if that was correct or a wiring problem. Are the outlets downstream suppose to also be with voltage between hot to ground? You are good as an instructor! Glad I found you channel.
Does the LB have to be vertical into the ground? It occurs to me that going down at a 45° angle would reduce the first bend in the underground conduit. By doing that at both ends, one can reduce the total bending by 90°, conforming to code in some cases and making it easier to fish the wire through the conduit.
I an electrical contractor from England. That was so long . We would just run a steel wire armour cable. Much easier. The cable is protected by wire mesh which you can Also use as the earth ( ground ). You just bury the cable straight into the ground. Also we would have to test the earth loop impedance to make sure the MCB protecting the new board would disconnect quickly enough under fault conditions.
Your videos are really great. I was wondering can you do a video on how to wire a 12/3 wire to a junction box to two separate lines off of a 2 pole 20amp ?
So I installed a Spa Disconnect box using 6 GA THHN for the Hots and Neutral and 8 Ga for the Ground. The box is rated for 50 Amps. Are you saying I could change out feed breaker and GFCI breaker to 60 amps using the same 6 GA wires?
Just below the video in the description. Depending if you are on your desktop or mobile phone you can expand the description as see the text outside the few lines of text which are displayed. Also here is the list: Parts List #6 THHN Red, Black, and White and #10 Green: amzn.to/3xTG3Rg Schedule 80 conduit Schedule 40 conduit LB conduit bodies 90-degree elbows 45-degree elbows Box connectors 1" STD minnies for PVC Sub Panel: amzn.to/3NhqGI8 Ground Rods Ground Rod Clamps #8 ground wire
I have seen several videos with Joel. He is great. I believe he misspoke at about time 1:34 when he said the wire was thhn rated. 2020 nec table 310.4.(A). Does not approve thhn for wet locations. 2020 nec 100 describes a wet location as underground or..... 2020 nec 300.5.(B). Also indicates the inside of an underground raceway is considered a wet location. Thwn would be okay.
#6 THHN Red, Black, and White and #10 Green: geni.us/nxyg
Sub Panel: geni.us/6BIfs
DISCLAIMER: This video and description contain affiliate links, which means that if you click on one of the product links, I’ll receive a small commission.
As an electrical guy, we get to install what the customer wants inside code. I would encourage a homeowner in this situation to consider larger conduit. With all that digging and concrete cutting and all, it was only a 60 Amp panel.
With electric cars needing a 50 Amp circuit, upsizing th pipe will allow the 60 Amp wire to be used to pull in a larger wire for the electric car without re-digging. A power up-grade would just need to pull larger wire and swap the panel for a larger one.
Also, consider 2 or 3 extra pipes while the trench is open.....maybe a hard-wire server or security cameras or some kind of diner bell/distress warning system (flashing light for high noise areas).
Love the work Joel.
Really good advice Keith, Joel and I (Scott) appreciate the feedback 👍
can he gotten away with 100 amp sub panel instead of 125amp
@victornaja7927 there is a load calculation in the National Electrical Code chapter 2 i think section 220 (not by my book). That can be used to calculate the loading expected on a sub panel or to a house. This is the section that expects some loads not to work when others are running (a/c running, no need for heat).
The panel installed should be able to handle at least that much load. You can go bigger, not smaller. So, a 100 Amp breaker and 100 amp supply can feed into a 125 panel, but all the supplying breakers should be sized for the wire supplying, including the isolation input breaker in the panel.
So, some lights and a car charger, can have less amps than a workshop and car charger.
In this video, I think it would be okay if I remember correctly. However, I would encourage you to involve a pro to at least make sure you get the correct stuff for your project.
PS. I always recommend bigger conduit and multiple conduits for future upgrades and things like security, internet, and maybe a warning light for trouble in the house. A light can be "heard" over any noise. While your trench is open, you can drop in many pipes and cap them off for future use or..... re-dig later?
Thank you. I'm a diy to the core. I'm planning to build my garage n as I'm trying to figure out the sub box n cable I'm already preparing to to have pipe fir ethernet cable n separate pipe fir electric
@victornaja7927 I often recommend getting a pro involved. You can involve them only at the level where they advise you and allow you to do everything yourself. (I understand very well both the self pride and joy in doing things yourself)
They may have solution to problems you do not know you will have.....do you need an external disconnect on the building, type of wires to run, and more. One man called his "barn" an agricultural building for taxes or building money discounts. That title enacts extra electrical requirements and has its own electrical section.
Again, while the trench is open, consider a bigger conduit.....(200 amps). This will allow major upgrades no matter the panel load you install today. Extra pipes for cable tv (waiting room), internet for sales, security cameras, dinner bell (flashing light), etc. It is easy to drop in an extra pipe and put string/rope in it today and easily pull in what you want/need tomorrow....minus extra digging.
Hope you have a good build.
I was watching this and thought hey you just tied your neutral and grounds together, that's not right. Then you fixed it. Thanks for showing us all of this including your mistakes. We are all human and constantly learning. Great video and collab.
Thanks!
I thought they tie together in main box anyway🤷🏾🤷🏾🤷🏾
Oo nevermind, I see your working off of the sub, not the main...🤦🏾🤦🏾🤦🏾
It made me feel good to notice this myself based on comments earlier in the video. Accidental confidence builder!
Nothing quite like a HOT project!
Excellent Job all the way around, I found it very interesting at 15:13 regarding the expansion and contraction of the conduit due to seasonal warming and cooling. Brushing up for some out-building wiring jobs. Your tips are golden! Another pro-tip for some extensive digging and excavating small scale, buy used equipment that runs well, keep it as long as you need it, and then sell it off after the job is complete, It's far cheaper than renting for several weeks. :)
Thanks for the feedback. If you want more of Joel (the guy in the video) check out his channel at @ElectricProAcademy
Over 1,000 videos published 🤯 nice work with the channel!
This was probably the most perfectly explained and detailed video I’ve ever watched! It wasn’t overwhelming at any point. Just specific and explained very very well. Great video!
Thanks!, Joel did a great job and has a TON more videos over on his TH-cam channel as well www.youtube.com/@ElectricProAcademy
I've been doing a mountain of research for exactly the same project. This is far and away the most informative video I have watch about doing a subpanel job
I'm an electrician who just watched this video. How did your subpanel install go?
@@cantlean4440 hi guys may i ask how high was his subpanel at in the new subpanel at the garage from the ground up i did not catch that please
The very second he said "penetration" I was hooked for the full 28:26. Excellent content!
Kudos for citing N.E.C. So many folks on videos just say or show how to do things. Citing N.E.C fully with numbers gives great reference points for others to go do more research.
I'm a subscriber to both of you guys.
Retired 25 year commercial electrician.
You guys keep me up to date on codes, how-to's and trends.
Whats Joel's channel link?
@@BDBD16 electric pro akademy
Academy
Joel's Channel = th-cam.com/users/ElectricProAcademy
Thanks for the support Roxanne 👍
Joel is by far the best I’ve watched on the tube. Great teacher.
He is good teacher on the labor part, but regarding code i would recommend an actual code instructor. Some of the stuff that he claims is code isnt actually code.
Nice video, believable cost breakdown from an actual electrician is valuable, almost missed it snuck in the end
Just found your channel. Licensed electrician going on 40 years. Nice job !
Amazing work. I did the same thing but an easier run in 2019. One thing I would definitely suggest is to run an extra piece of conduit (I did 3/4 and 1.25" for my needs), the extra piece being for Ethernet wires for POE powered cameras and connecting to my big inverter on my main solar array (data tracking, updating). May be great to have a WiFi access point in the garage or cameras or future needs and just keep it empty!
Oh, and one safety thing not mentioned - if you get an SDS max hammer drill to do large drilling, be extra careful that it doesn't bind and twist on you - that can break your arm off! Didn't happen to me but I used one for drilling 4-5" hole through 2 cinderblock walls at work and man the thing was crazy powerful. Only power tool that scared me to use a bit, even with being careful.
You have never used a Harbor freight angle grinder before then…🤣… you feel death standing behind you.
@@anthonywinters3288 lol I have a Harbor freight one actually, but I paid for the 'good' one, not the $10 one. I use hammer drills a lot but the massive ones are beasts and the twisting can be dangerous.
I agree being scared of the bigger hammer drills cause hitting a rebar man it will twist your arm off lol.
@@anthonywinters3288 I have an orange HF grinder that is noisy as hell but absolutely will not die. It’s about 15 years old and has not let me down yet.
You totally threw me off, thinking this was gonna be an Electric Pro Academy video, seeing Joel in the thumbnail, then when I clicked it, seeing you with Everyday Home Repairs.
Between you two, Stud Pack, Dustin Stelzer's two channels with Electrician U, and a few others, I am so in love with learning all this stuff about electrical!
This was one of the crazy things I ran into, in the Midwest back in the 70’s. The previous owner had to post a bond to my mortgage company, for his wiring to the detached garage. He burned up the UG wire, and just ran wires overhead. I tried to get a Homeowners permit, couldn’t because it wasn’t part of the “Home.” Put the Sub-panel in the Cellar where the Boiler was. Had an Electrician pull the wiring permit to the garage. I did the digging and most of the work. Passed inspection and got the Bond money. In the end it worked out better.
Very informative. Why no main breaker in the garage? Even if not required, would seem like a priority need.
Consummate professional...he toned it down and kept it pro. On his channel he's having a ton of fun.
Joel, in Arizona we don’t license electricians, only electrical contractors. So, if a master electrician were to move here from say Indiana, and want to pull wire on his own, he would first have to get a contractors license, post a bond, get a business license before doing any work that required a permit or cost more than $1500.
The local junior college runs a two year certificate program but after graduation, you’d still have to work op for a contractor before going out on your own.
Absolutely the best video I found on youtube regarding how to install a sub-panel!!! Thank you!
This was an extremely helpful video! The host doing all the work and talking is amazing at explaining everything and giving us tips. Overall a 10/10 video and I appreciate the work that went into this for all of us!!!
Pro tips from Mr Underground.
Don't always use fittings for bends. On the bend by the drainage pipe you could have easily dug a sweeping curve and eliminated 90% of the drag when pulling wire. Same with the 45s approaching the garage. Also, that trench isn't 18" deep :)
Also, I think it would be easy enough to "shoot" that wide sidewalk instead of removing and replacing the concrete. Dig the trench at the proper angle and depth (where the drain pipe was). Glue a male adapter and brass spray nozzle on one end of a piece of PVC and a hose adapter on the other. Lay it LEVEL in the trench and start working it through. If it is hard soil, let it sit for 30 seconds if and work it forward. Repeat as necessary. In 10 minutes, your pipe is under the walk. It's messy but quick and cheap. I learned that in the olden days installing irrigation systems.
I don't know all the details but I may have chosen to come from the main panel. It's easy enough to make a couple spaces by moving two circuits to the original sub. But, it was probably a mess in there and easier to use the sub.
I'm old and retired and came here to bust your balls, but I can't. I'll give you a 10 out of 10 :)
How would moving existing circuits from the main to the sub be easier? The wires are already cut to length. It looked like it was Romex. Moving a bunch of wires around doesn't sound like fun. I don't know what the point would be.
This guys the best! Thanks for teaching me the correct way to install sub panel. Followed your directions and it wen't really well!
This was great I was looking for a video to wire 240 to my garage these guys have the panel in the garage already easy work... I am going to have to do some digging since I'm doing that might as well do a subpanel. The price you quoted surprised me
Great vid! How do you patch the brick unluckily crumbled for the LB on the side of the house?
I imagine some concrete would do. But I'm not a tradesman. Perhaps a masonry guy would know.
I would clean the chip and brick then gorilla glue it together. No paint matching necessary.
Great video! So I was watching when the sub panel in the house was being wired and I thought to myself "I thought that since this was a sub panel grounds and neutrals were supposed to be separate" and sure enough he called it out as a mistake - AWESOME! What a great way to reinforce that concept (if he didn't actually do it by mistake).
I just did the same thing.
Thanks for cutting the video.
Is a expansion fitting not required where it enters / exits the ground into the building?
You did an excellent job step-by-step explaining and especially delivering those NEC Codes more videos, please
I actually did a similar project myself a few weeks ago, good to see we almost did it completely properly. I opted to lay UF cable underground because that turned out to be a fair bit cheaper than getting separate conductors and conduit, and it skips the hassle of pulling cable all that distance.
Righto! There’s a new product I love called Trable Cable with a direct burial, sunlight, damage resistant and joist pull rating. Super stuff!
Man this is awesome. Thank you for the step by step with simple explanation as to why things are done per code. Helps me understand for sure. Great video.
this is the best video on this subject, the other ones i saw the guys were hem-hawing around and telling their life stories and interjecting non essential info. also i thought you needed to put a ground rod outside the new box in the garage.
Thanks. Should mention that call 811 system for public utility location.
Was contemplating a 75 foot buried extension for an RV pad. Gave me a ton to think about. Down here in Central Texas the frost line isn’t an issue. But ground shifting between dry and wet a deal that would force a gravel base to the trench on my run which has a 10 foot drop in the run.
12:35 you don't need an expansion joint to prevent the frost from heaving you conduit where it enters the ground?
Now that's an interesting thought! I really like it as a measure to prevent damage. Do you think that because it's typically 2-4 feet it's worth the expense of an expansion joint or would it be a prudent business measure to relegate expansion joints to longer runs? What's your current practice?
@@joelwalsman773 Its code in my area, my underground service required an expansion joint where it goes into the hose, though at the pole it was not needed. I think it is also related to earthquakes prone areas too. He also explained how the PVC expands in the sun it probably would help there too. Perhaps it is only required at the service entrance and not for sub-panel. I would have installed one on the house and garage there is a lot of mass in both those foundations and he only went 18" into the ground.
@@ericfraser7543 Nice! The expansion joints are not direct burial rated. -Joel, the guy in the video
@@joelwalsman773 Oh well then you would know if they were needed in your application... Yes you would not bury an expansion joint... I am not an electrician, my inspector only made me put an extra clamp to secure it to the building.
Heres a question for you.
My garage is a metal building kit. The building dept had me tie a ground to the rebar in the foundation. What are the connection points for that ground along with the 2 ground rods? Does the foundation ground tie to the ground rods then the ground rods to the panel ? Or the foundation ground to the panel ground and the two ground rods to the panel ground as well. Then I'll also have the ground from the main house panel to the sub panel as well !?
OR. does the foundation ground tie to the metal garage frame and continue on to the sub panel ?
Local rental stores are absolutely the way to go. We rented a stump grinder from home depot and it was missing 1 of 3 cutting teeth. Took it back and every one they had was missing at least one tooth. Went to our local rental store and the guy rented us this absolute beast of a stump grinder on tracks and a hydraulic cutting head. It even came with its own trailer, and it maybe cost $10 more. What started out as us removing one stump, turned into 15+ trees because that first stump took us 10 minutes and we wanted to get our money's worth.
I always laugh when people get upset at how much a contractor is going to charge them, but they’ve never watched a video like this and realize how much work and knowledge is involved.
Thought was good video.. clear .. nice clean job! Seen other comments that said negatives… tend stay on the positive note… keep on my man!! Def learned from it!
Great video I was wondering can I use a 60 amp breaker sub panel instead of lug panel
yes
Would like to have seen how you buried your ground rods. You needed two, so how did you route them?
I was wondering about that also.
He did show it, in a 2 second time lapse. He has shown it in other videos.
Joel, that cut you made of the conduit stub out from the house was angled with the reciprocating saw, doesnt allow for full seating of the pipe when glued into the LB conduit body and as you said the weakest point in the connections, but thank you again for sharing the install of this job!!
Joel is a fabulous teacher!
2:15 doubles as a pickup line for the ladies
Classic 🤣
You read my mind. 4:36 for part 2
One of the best explanations for this job that I've seen. Good job.
Good work..!!!✅
And good shot at 24:42 of the power IN hookup on this Sub Panel 😎👍👏
Nice! I hired an electrician but got stuck diggin my trench with a pick and shovel to save a few bucks.
Sure the electrician was happy 😂 I do the same thing on some projects to save a few bucks #sweatequity
Great Video......But, I missed the line that was used to pull the 4 conductors to the garage through the conduit.....when was that done? Thanks Much!
(~20:30) Although considerably more laborious, would it be possible and allowable to just go conduit by conduit, and put the wire through the sweep, then glue and attach the next length of conduit, pull to the next point, glue and attach the next bend/elbow, pull the next stretch of wire, etc., until finally making it to that 360° completion point?
Or is there a reason that one HAS to glue all the conduit together first, THEN push/pull the wire run?
I see what you are saying but this idea is never done for many reasons. Now if you were using a different material like Smurf tube people will pull the wire in before making bends because Smurf tube is so hard to get wires through.
Trust me, feel free to lay the conduit where you want it and then fish the wires through. It is the only way to go.
•keep bends as few as possible no more than 365°
•if you have more than 365° of bend, add a pull point such as a junction box.
•follow the correct depth to bury. I believe this is 300.5 of the NEC.
•add expansion pieces as called for for expansion and contraction.
•Secure and strap as called for for the material you are using.
In Canada we are fortunate to be able to use Tech Cable for underground which eliminates the conduit and the need to pull wires thru conduits.
Regarding the ~3:20 part about the cover on the panel, @Joel/@Electric Pro Academy, would there be any problems with adding a bit of a ledge/support as like just a flat board underneath and along the bottom of the panel's cover, onto the nailer board (if one's house has it), just to make the removal of the panel cover that much less straining and dangerous?
Excellent video and details. Thx. What about the grounding to ground rods at the garage?
Great video. My only question would be how you got around 225.31-.33 where this structure would require a means of disconnect for the subpanel? Usually, you'd use a backfed 60A DP breaker or a panel with a main breaker (any rating >60A) to serve as the disconnect, not a lug panel. Is there an outside disconnect (required in some areas) we didn't see?
Thank you! The requirements of 225.31-.33 aren't in effect in our jurisdiction so I can't say that they're even on my radar. Really good NEC call out and thank you for that! Please consider jumping over to EPRO and contributing your insights to our conversations. Good work!
Hard to believe 225.31 isn't enforced. It has been in the NEC for years.
@26:10 he states the main lugs in the existing sub panel are energized, which is surprising because you'd think they were fed from the existing main panel at a breaker that could be switched off
This is the best explanation of this project I've seen. But, you didn't demonstrate or explain the connecting of the ground rod. I assume that's what you're connecting at 24:20.
Super thoughtful video. You can use a rod push system to avoid cutting the drive. Cable pulling lube is essential for making pulls easier. Step drill, will be getting one now!
But the lube is so nasty and gets all over everything.
Hi there my breaker is Jose nice to see you, a question is there a way to connect a sub panel to a main fuse panel?
I learned so much from this video. I'm now confident to do this myself.
How do we water and air tight the holes those we drill in the wall? Caulk, spray foam or any other material ?
Great video. Well explained and helped me out enormously
That is what we are here for, happy to help 👍
How did y'all get the cord through the conduit that you used to pull the wire through?
Just fished the fish tape through from the garage side. This usually is fairly easy but will get harder and you increase the number of elbows.
amazing video! would you tell what gage did you use for two hot wires, ground and neutral wire? else where did you buy the sub panel?
Had to pull SEU for my dad from our panel to his new workshop about 200ft away. Even lubed up it still took two grown men pulling in unison to get it to go.
What size gauge wire?
@@Eastbaypisces 2/0 Copper
@@DaWord2011 what size conduit u use?
@@Eastbaypisces 2"
Love your step by step explanation style! You do good work! I’ve done a lot of electrical projects over many years, electrical engineer, Army trained electrician, many DIY projects. One question about your cable pull step: why deal with the struggle of the heavy pull? You could simply run the cable through each 10’ section of conduit and then lay it in the trench with no pulling? Your thoughts? Thanks! Dan
Conduit must be installed as a complete system before pulling wires. (at least according to Canadian Electrical code)
It is definitely an option to do it this way in Australia. Run it through each length first then glue it.
does the LB 90 count as part or the overall 360 or is that bends only?
bends only
Really good step-by-step. Noticed two grounds at the sub-panel, one (green wire) obviously comes from the main along with the two hots and neutral. I'm assuming the bare copper ground wire came from a separate ground rod outside of the second structure. Can someone verify please?
Great video full of information. My question is how do you compensate for drainage around the foundation of the house? On my house the drainage at the back of the house where I have to run the conduit is at the 24 inch depth.
Awesome video I'm doing something similar & love to find videos that support my project. Fortunately I only need a trench less than 30 ft every thing else is inside. Yes it will be in PVC inside & out.
If the sub panel is for an attatched garage do you tie the ground from the main panel or are you creating a new ground in the sub panel with additional grounding rods? I am looking to add 240 to my garage for my tools.
If it's an attached garage you run a ground with the circuit conductors, no additional ground rods required.
I have a question I have a meter combo that is 200 amps and has 4 spaces. Out of those 4 spaces, 1 is available. Is it possible to run the 4 breakers in that panel to a sub-panel net to it? Put a 200 amp breaker in the combo meter panel. To power the 200amp sub.
The install was excellent! The electrician has been doing commercial work! Residential is “120/240 volt Single Phase 3 wire system”. Single phase, not 2 phase. There is no phase A and phase B. It is Line 1 and Line 2.
Respectfully, Kevin
Thanks for the feedback Kevin.
I'm glad he caught the error with the neutral going on the ground bus at the end. I was going to be confused otherwise.
I did not see what you used to connect to the your electrical cable before you pulled it through (I watched twice). Did you have an electrical snake or just some bare wire you purchased? When and how did you push it through?
dude 6:50 that machine was impressive. it was like the brick was butter. I know it was sped up but still.
Good video. Good you mentioned checking for utilities. In my state,Dig Safe (covers 5 states in NE) will check for all utilities and other cables (ISP cable services) that are underground. I installed an independent ground for my solar panel/turbine set up, Dig Safe was very thorough.
Does the wire coming through the conduit into the sub panel need to be clamped?
No, The conductors will just come straight out of the conduit past the bushing.
Is this a 50 or 100 amp sub panel ?
I am working on a detached garage and this will be my goal to install.
Thanks
I used a 60 Amp breaker feeding this sub panel amzn.to/3NhqGI8
3:30- Your electrician failed to state to the audience that just shutting the sub-panel's main breaker off, DOES NOT totally remove power from the box. He should have went over to the main breaker box and shut off the breaker that feeds the sub-panel.
he was saying that for people that only have one panel tbh
most people will only have one panel for their wiring instead of two
Great video! thanks for sharing. I have a somewhat different situation. I have my main, basement panel as a sub panel from a newly installed 200amp upgrade in the garage. The garage is attached to the house with wires running under a concrete slab. Is it possible to use the existing 1.5" conduit running under the slab, for a 30 amp power backup from an inverter located in the garage? Sadly, the primary 200amp panel has about 3 circuits on it while the original basement panel is fully loaded. any suggestions, folks?
What is the inverter for? Solar panels or electric car charger?
I'm a electrician here in nyc I see you used pvc why not use one inch emt. I'm just curious
Do have to call before you dig the trench? Natural gas,city water supplier? Also can be hang wire above ground. In Canada you have to call before you dig.
Yes you should. Utilities companies highly recommend it.
In most areas, you can call 811, or you can dig around for an online website. That will cover everything. It's free for homeowners, and the utilities have a timeline to mark their stuff (usually 2 weeks.) If you hit something that isn't marked, it's on the utility. If you don't call and hit something, it's on you. Pretty dumb not to use the free service.
@@bnasty267 Agreed! It's state law here and probably everywhere! The risk is bankruptcy if you don't. The stakes really can be that high.
@@joelwalsman773 Can be worse than bankruptcy! My neighbor hit a gas line digging. Just luck he didn't kill himself.
@@UnlikelyToRemember True that!
This was an amazing walkthrough of the process. But how did you get your tiny pull wire through the 70 feet of conduit to attach to your conductors for that pull?
Your fish tape should easily run through the conduit to hook up to the THHN. This definitely can be a little more difficult as the number of 90’s increase in your conduit.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs I haven't done this myself, but I would imagine you could also attach your lead to something magnetic, and use a strong magnet from outside the conduit to help "pull" it along in case pushing isn't working or it gets stuck in a corner. Just the lead though, no way it's going to get your THHN through.
use a light string and pull it thru with a vacuum cleaner, then pull the pull rope or whatever thru with the string
In your video. What or style torque tool did you use. Torque Screwdriver?
I want to install a garage panel that will feed outlets in the garage and my Tesla charger. 60 amps is nominal for the charger. So would I put in a 60 amp in the main panel to feed the secondary, or would I need to go bigger? Also, wouldn't I need 4AWG for a 60 amp instead of 6AWG?
Assuming your original service is 200 amps I would run the sub off a 80 or 100 amp breaker. Use #4 copper wire or more commonly used #2 aluminum wire to feed the sub panel.
Great work! A few questions: I see you used THHN through out so cable buried in a conduit is not considered wet? Why pull after the conduit is buried wouldn't running cable through with the conduit in pieces be easier? Is it to avoid getting glue on the wire? Does the same hold true for Ridged Metal Conduit? So few videos showing DIY RMC... is it that much harder to thread and bend?
THHN is cross listed as THWN so it's allowed in wet locations. NEC requires that the conduit system be complete before installing the conductors.
Hey there Scott, first, thanks for sharing this video.
Now, my question. In the video where you put a subpanel near (next to) the main, you run the subpanel supply CB at the main panel. Yet in this case I see the subpanel main breaker is located in the subpanel, not the main panel. What gives? Thanks in advance. Daniel
Needs a main disconnect in the garage sub or less than 6 handle throws. If NEC 2020 the 6 throw rule is voided.
Just wondering; when you checked the subpanel and had voltage between hot to ground, I found that in my detached garage. I didnt know if that was correct or a wiring problem. Are the outlets downstream suppose to also be with voltage between hot to ground? You are good as an instructor! Glad I found you channel.
you provided me with information that i had forgotten. very well done.
Does the LB have to be vertical into the ground? It occurs to me that going down at a 45° angle would reduce the first bend in the underground conduit. By doing that at both ends, one can reduce the total bending by 90°, conforming to code in some cases and making it easier to fish the wire through the conduit.
By going down at a 45 you violate 300.5, burial depth.
why did you not need a main breaker shut off on sub panel in separate garage building
Wondering the same thing. And if it is required, how do you add it?
Any videos on exterior sub panels? I guess more or less best practices on the install as i know code will change on location.
I must have missed it but what size wire was used and what size breaker was used in the basement to garage sub panel?
I an electrical contractor from England. That was so long . We would just run a steel wire armour cable. Much easier. The cable is protected by wire mesh which you can Also use as the earth ( ground ). You just bury the cable straight into the ground.
Also we would have to test the earth loop impedance to make sure the MCB protecting the new board would disconnect quickly enough under fault conditions.
How long does this steel armour cable last?
@@IGoProEVERYTHING 50 yrs minimum at least depends like all cables how much it is used.
Your videos are really great. I was wondering can you do a video on how to wire a 12/3 wire to a junction box to two separate lines off of a 2 pole 20amp ?
So I installed a Spa Disconnect box using 6 GA THHN for the Hots and Neutral and 8 Ga for the Ground. The box is rated for 50 Amps. Are you saying I could change out feed breaker and GFCI breaker to 60 amps using the same 6 GA wires?
I like how you explain the codes.
great video but how come I can't view the material list. Just shows the dewalt tool and Milwaukee tool
Just below the video in the description. Depending if you are on your desktop or mobile phone you can expand the description as see the text outside the few lines of text which are displayed. Also here is the list:
Parts List
#6 THHN Red, Black, and White and #10 Green: amzn.to/3xTG3Rg
Schedule 80 conduit
Schedule 40 conduit
LB conduit bodies
90-degree elbows
45-degree elbows
Box connectors
1" STD minnies for PVC
Sub Panel: amzn.to/3NhqGI8
Ground Rods
Ground Rod Clamps
#8 ground wire
In need install 100A sub panel in my garage and distance is main panel to garage is 65 feet. Which wire should I use.
Would this wire work for a 180’ run to power a 100 amp panel?
Question, if you wanted a 100 amp subpanel. What wire size is needed? #3 copper thhn and a #6 ground?
Yes, but #8 ground is sufficient.
ok i was wondering near the 27 min mark if you were gonna catch your neutral on your ground bar.
I have seen several videos with Joel. He is great. I believe he misspoke at about time 1:34 when he said the wire was thhn rated.
2020 nec table 310.4.(A). Does not approve thhn for wet locations.
2020 nec 100 describes a wet location as underground or.....
2020 nec 300.5.(B). Also indicates the inside of an underground raceway is considered a wet location.
Thwn would be okay.