You can see links to the products in the description (not affiliate links). I forgot to show the lower in the video, so here is the link to that: palmettostatearmory.com/psa-sabre-15-forged-lower-with-moe-sl-stock-and-grip-odg.html
I feel like this has to be the *most reasonable AR starting guide* around. The entire list is very reasonable. I regretted rushing my own purchases too much. If only I knew how to source parts and take my time, I could have saved a bunch.
My personal rec for any first timer would be to go 16 inch. That way if they ever want to upgrade anything barrel/muzzle/gas block related they don’t have to deal with pin/weld annoyances
Only real change I'd make is to get the HLX pro 2024 model, which as better output and an upgraded electrical system. The USBC battery and the dual lead clicky is a nice addition as-well. Can be found for about the same as the original HLX.
I'm also a sucker for the strike industries S3 lite sling. I just run some parachord for the attachment method with some uncle mikes sling mounts. Saves a couple bucks and is quieter and doesn't have the risk of eating through the handguard (if it isn't steel reinforced).
I use prisms with etched reticles due to vision issues. Primary Arms makes very tough models and some have fixed magnification. Blade by Swampfox is a 1x25mm prism optimized for CQB engagements, like inside your house.
Save money with the lower, buy a $120 or so PSA lower and put the money you saved into the upper. Really simply explaining, the upper is essentially the only part of the rifle that matters. I've seen a few complete, used anderson or kp-15 lowers in my area for around $100 as well, which saves shipping and transfer fees. You can sometimes pick up complete, used in good/great condition BCM uppers for around $500, but recently I've just seen people trying to list their used uppers for MSRP.
@Kwiwikwem used uppers are risky if you don't know the round count. Lowers are a low risk component but not all lowers are the same. Some combinations of lower/upper fit together better than others
@@compulsivegunbuyer TH-cam seems to have deleted my long-ass comment. Summarized: they're not risky because even a beginner could see if an upper was shot enough to matter. I have not heard of lower fitment ever being anything other than aesthetic
It's funny because I just sent my buddy to Munitionworks for his first upper on a Aero lower, for his first AR, he's a diehard bow hunter who wants something to hunt with and at the same time something to protect his 10+ acre hobby farm and went with a 16" Criterion Core upper with a armslist special 2-10x credo, I'm still trying to sell him on a top dot, but he's not there yet. I believe we're all in for under $1900 which seems like a really capable gun for the money. Meanwhile, I'm looking at getting a 6.5 Seekins AR10 or just pulling out a second mortgage on a SCAR 6.5 20" platform, which is supposed to have gassing issues, but at least I'm not hanging with the poors....
@@compulsivegunbuyer that new version of the Romeo5 seems interesting. Or even the normal romeo5 can easily be found for like 120. Not sure what the 403r goes for
@@chrisb3542 it's like 120 vs 150. I like the romeos okay, but they seem slightly lower quality all around to me. If the price difference was greater, I might consider them as a cheaper alternative, but the 403r is so affordable. My experience with the romeo5 is a few years old so, I'm not sure about newer versions. I once dropped one onto tile from 2 feet and the glass cracked. Shook my faith in it's robustness a bit, but I know drop tests are not perfect indicators.
I used to love the HS503 line (be it 503b, bu, c, cu, g, gu, etc.), but I think it's worth just paying a little more for the AEMS core. The TRS25 is still a decent option for those who refuse to pay 100 bucks for a dot lol.
You can see links to the products in the description (not affiliate links). I forgot to show the lower in the video, so here is the link to that: palmettostatearmory.com/psa-sabre-15-forged-lower-with-moe-sl-stock-and-grip-odg.html
I feel like this has to be the *most reasonable AR starting guide* around. The entire list is very reasonable.
I regretted rushing my own purchases too much. If only I knew how to source parts and take my time, I could have saved a bunch.
My personal rec for any first timer would be to go 16 inch. That way if they ever want to upgrade anything barrel/muzzle/gas block related they don’t have to deal with pin/weld annoyances
@@chrisb3542 same. It also allows them to go for more of an spr if they decide they want that down the road.
Only real change I'd make is to get the HLX pro 2024 model, which as better output and an upgraded electrical system. The USBC battery and the dual lead clicky is a nice addition as-well. Can be found for about the same as the original HLX.
I'm also a sucker for the strike industries S3 lite sling. I just run some parachord for the attachment method with some uncle mikes sling mounts. Saves a couple bucks and is quieter and doesn't have the risk of eating through the handguard (if it isn't steel reinforced).
I use prisms with etched reticles due to vision issues. Primary Arms makes very tough models and some have fixed magnification. Blade by Swampfox is a 1x25mm prism optimized for CQB engagements, like inside your house.
@@tech6263 I have yet to try PAs newer prism optics, but I have heard good things.
@@compulsivegunbuyer wait. They release the green reticles long after the red ones. Then the price gets better.
Save money with the lower, buy a $120 or so PSA lower and put the money you saved into the upper. Really simply explaining, the upper is essentially the only part of the rifle that matters. I've seen a few complete, used anderson or kp-15 lowers in my area for around $100 as well, which saves shipping and transfer fees. You can sometimes pick up complete, used in good/great condition BCM uppers for around $500, but recently I've just seen people trying to list their used uppers for MSRP.
@Kwiwikwem used uppers are risky if you don't know the round count. Lowers are a low risk component but not all lowers are the same. Some combinations of lower/upper fit together better than others
@@compulsivegunbuyer TH-cam seems to have deleted my long-ass comment. Summarized: they're not risky because even a beginner could see if an upper was shot enough to matter. I have not heard of lower fitment ever being anything other than aesthetic
It's funny because I just sent my buddy to Munitionworks for his first upper on a Aero lower, for his first AR, he's a diehard bow hunter who wants something to hunt with and at the same time something to protect his 10+ acre hobby farm and went with a 16" Criterion Core upper with a armslist special 2-10x credo, I'm still trying to sell him on a top dot, but he's not there yet. I believe we're all in for under $1900 which seems like a really capable gun for the money. Meanwhile, I'm looking at getting a 6.5 Seekins AR10 or just pulling out a second mortgage on a SCAR 6.5 20" platform, which is supposed to have gassing issues, but at least I'm not hanging with the poors....
I'm curious, what other red dots besides the HS403R do you recommend as an entry-level red dot?
@@compulsivegunbuyer that new version of the Romeo5 seems interesting. Or even the normal romeo5 can easily be found for like 120. Not sure what the 403r goes for
@@chrisb3542 it's like 120 vs 150. I like the romeos okay, but they seem slightly lower quality all around to me. If the price difference was greater, I might consider them as a cheaper alternative, but the 403r is so affordable. My experience with the romeo5 is a few years old so, I'm not sure about newer versions. I once dropped one onto tile from 2 feet and the glass cracked. Shook my faith in it's robustness a bit, but I know drop tests are not perfect indicators.
I used to love the HS503 line (be it 503b, bu, c, cu, g, gu, etc.), but I think it's worth just paying a little more for the AEMS core.
The TRS25 is still a decent option for those who refuse to pay 100 bucks for a dot lol.
@@GldenRetriever yeah I tend to trust the 503s a bit more than the 403. Might be worth the extra $$.