Ep. 176 | Building an AR - Where to Spend Your Money and Where to Save
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 เม.ย. 2021
- AR component and accessory options abound. Wading through them is part of the fun, but can be daunting at the same time. How can two seemingly identical parts have such an extreme price discrepancy? Jimmy and Mark bring in AR-Gurus Adam Maxwell and Reuben Aleckson to dissect the anatomy of an AR, and where to consider dropping coin like brass on a hot range, or where to save money like cartridges during an ammo crisis (that would never happen). Mark even brings in his plaid-lined wicker basket of AR parts as visual-aid. You can rest easy knowing they have been assembled. Let us know in the comments if you want to see the complete rifles before they are mysteriously lost to the ocean in a tragic, undocumented, boating accident.
As always, we want to hear your feedback! Let us know if there are any topics you'd like covered on the Vortex Nation™ podcast by asking us on any one of our social media platforms and using #VortexNationPodcast.
Follow Vortex Nation Podcast on Instagram:
vortexnationpodcast
Something that wasn't covered here is that some of the best parts aren't all that expensive. Take Barrels; you can buy a Ballistic advantage for under $300 that will be more accurate than most people are even capable of achieving. Just because something isn't expensive doesn't mean it isn't high quality.
Dmn, can get a complete upper with bcg for less from psa.
@@CL-ty6wp not ALWAYS the case but normally you do get what you pay for. PSA is fine for what most shooters do with a carbine, 1-200 rds a month at the range with a buddy, but for duty use type carbines there are better options out there.
@C L facts..I was looking for a FN barrel for one of my builds and got a complete upper with the FN barrel I wanted for $40 more than the places selling the same barrel by itself
I get .5 MOA @ 100 yards from my barrel using irons in prone sling supported position which is enough accuracy for me to complete in High Master Class of NRA Long Range Competition and score in 94% arena. This is achieved only from a match grade button rifled 1/7 twist barrel and this sort of barrel costs about $600 these days. What’s worse is this sort of barrel only is X-Ring capable at long range inside 2500 rounds.
%100 I slapped a BA .223 wilde 16" hanson premium barrel in my ar for $230. Shoots around 3/4MOA with premium or better and 1.5 moa or better with pmc xtac 55 grain.
Here’s where to spend money:
1. Barrel
2. BCG
3. Trigger
4. Ammo
But the guys on Reddit said I shouldn't even shoot my rifle because it has an Anderson lower...
@@CompetitionChris pOVeRTy pOnY
They work just fine 😂
Step one. Make up your mind honestly. What are you doing with it?
@Michael VanGundy Good one!
I personally would put ammo over trigger. Just get good with a mil spec unless you are trying to create some DMR type rifle.
Tiggers are definitely worth upgrading to. Larue makes a sweet one for under $90. You can get single stage or two stage. Or, you can spend a heck of a lot more on other name brands.
I agree. Everyone should want a good trigger. There are great mil spec style triggers, as well as drop in. Most of everything else is personal preference and dependent on the intended use. A good scope or other optic for your intended purpose is high on the list too. Way too many people seem to overscope ARs. Also even “cheap” barrels seem to produce great accuracy with their preferred loads. Personally, in general, mine are tools and as such I don’t want them costing an arm and a leg to buy.
I concur. The ALG's are nice too, but I've been spoiled by the MBT2S.
Yes, Larue triggers are a great value.
Gents if ya havent touched the Blackout Defense Zero trigger then your life is not complete... FIND ONE, TRY IT... Just once. Imagine Zero creep, breaks LITERALLY like a glass rod at either 3.5 or 4.5lbs (your choice) with a 2mm reset... You will ruin your shorts the first time and everytime after that...
You're welcome
@@phild9813 Speaking of scopes, I am really satisfied with a 1x8 LPVO scope made by Atibal Optics. Good glass and lighted reticle. It has served me well. I feel like over scoping is a common mistake. I've been guilty of that in the past and have moved away from high magnification scopes. Just my thoughts.
Guys…. Watch until the end. The podcast comes completely off the rails and it’s hilarious!!!
😂
I took a cheap PSA 18" rifle and added some aftermarket parts to it just to see how good I could get it. I like the 18" stainless barrels with rifle length gas. I've had really great luck out of them and they're super inexpensive. I put a JP Silent Captured Spring, CMC 3.5lb trigger, and a Wilson Combat Low Mass Carrier in it. It shoots better than a lot of the more expensive rifles I own. I go shooting with friends and they all prefer mine to theirs. I also dig the FN cold hammer forged 18" heavy barrels from PSA.
Did a similar thing to a 16inch Anderson.
AT3 also has good items for your tool enhancement ..I live only hour away From Greenville SC PSA . True adult toy store
I'd like to see a podcast on rifle tuning.
La la la la la..... clears throat... la la la la laaaaa 🎶
All tuned up bro, you're good to go.
Seriously though, you have to handload and find the bullet/powder/OAL that matches up with your specific setup. Just my opinion.
Good suggestion
What do you want tuned?
@@jimklemens5018 gas
@@randomchannel4886 Buy an adjustable gas block.
I'm just an AR enthusiast basically and I don't know half of what these guys know about these rifles but one thing I do know is that these rifles are awesome. Low budget guns to high end novesky rifles, they're all so cool to mess with. I'm 46 years old and I've been messing with these rifles for about 10 years now and the thing I find interesting is how much division there is in this "community" for lack of a better term. I just love guns even though I don't shoot much, and I like other people that love guns, if you don't then we probably can't be friends.
These guys know very little..Go to the School of the American Rifle if you want real instruction..The reality of the AR world is the endless amount of drivel being spewed as knowledge..There is a TDP spec for the AR platform and few people know or even understand it..
Most important parts are bolt and barrel. The most important thing to know while building is the specs like tourque of barrel nut Castle nut hand guard gas block and so on. Also where to/not to add grease, thread lock, anti seize.
Having the tools is a rifle price all in itself.
The rest of the items depend on the builders likes. Hand guard, pistol grip, butt stock, trigger, that's all preference.
I didn't know that Brownells had all that. THANK YOU, MARK. 34:08
Very valid points! I wish i had this info before i built my first! "You gotta have realistic expectations".
Also built vs bought can go really well but it can also be incredibly frustrating!
That was good, thanks all of you!
When I became interested in shooting an AR15, I made a decision to purchase instead of building one. I bought an inexpensive $850 Bushmaster with rail for scope. While attempting to enjoy shooting it, I learned a bunch about the AR15s. When I decided to build an AR, I had a good idea what to and not to purchase. I also went cheap but built most of the problems out of the Bushmaster.
As far as barrels are concerned, I have four ARs in .223 and one in Sharps .25 cal. and none of the .223 cal. barrels cost me more than $150. Two of them have $99 barrels. All have floating handguards that cost me under $40. I never planned to grow soybeans on my handguards. All I wanted was for it to be floating and to not get burned by the barrel. All of them shoot better than 1 MOA with a single load developed for good shooting in all rifles. At least two shoot .5 MOA or better and that same ammo gives me under .5 MOA in my bolt Thompson Center compass. Many of my AR's were built in a little more time that the duration of this show. I buy all the parts before I start building. Lastly, I once took a target to show my local parts store because when I saw a barrel costing $99, he told me that it would not be accurate. Of course, I bought it anyway. He asked me how I made that rifle shoot that well, I replied that I bedded the action. I had to explain that each rifle was shimmed to accomplish what bedding accomplishes. I learned that from improving the Bushmaster that had a problem hitting a ten-inch bullseye at 300 yards. Now it shoots just over 1 MOA. Optics follow the same philosophy. The first good scope was a SWFA 10X FFP. Following that I purchased two Primary Arms 4-24 x 44 FFP. I also have two Athlon Argos 6-24 x 50 FFP. All triggers were eventually replaced with $100 triggers (3.5 lbs.) from Delta Team Tactical. Keep in mind that these rifles were not meant to shoot out to 1000 yards when purchasing parts.
cool
Great video and advise. Wish I had seen this a year ago, would have saved me a lot of money. We learn by our mistakes. I've found each piece I've assembled on my ARs are personal, comfort and shooting ability are crucial. As stated by the hosts its not always about throwing rounds down range, its the shooting experience.
I was lucky enough to buy 3 to 4 uppers and lowers at a time so I can mix and match parts to my fitment needs...I normally get parts in bunches because of stacking issues 👍🤠⚔🗽
I like your videos; they're informative for guys like me on the low ends of the experience & knowledge scales, and you seem to save the adolescent male, 'pack of yammering baboons' silliness for the end, where it doesn't disrupt the message and can be enjoyed properly. Thanks!
Was looking into doing my first build and this video is exactly what I needed to see to point me in the right direction, appreciate it!
Exactly, I'm just going to get a PSA, maybe even a blem because 90%+ people can't even find the blem and half of those who do say it's basically nothing or unnoticed by them. Something to be said about getting something already properly fit together imo.
Thanks Mark for mentioning a resource like Brownell.....some us don't even know where to start or what type of options are available.
Only time I ever needed to use a forward assist was on my m16 in the army.
I'm sure there was something else causing the malfunction but I was able to smack it, shoot a few times before I had to smack it again. (This was during qualifications, nothing crazy)
Never needed it on any of my personal Ars but I can't seem to stomach not having it. 🤷🏻♂️
I built a retro A2 because I wanted an AR that was similar to 4 look like the M16 A2 I carried when I was in the army the upper receiver with integral carry handle and I already had the round handguards from a previous build
"It'll be a while before that comes back." It's a week later, wanna run that pistol brace thing past me again?
Interesting to listen to this one year later and find that our friendly ATF went through with making sure everyone became a felon with the pistol brace. Hahahah.
🥴
I was thinking the same thing
Aaaaaand they ultimately failed
I have several AR's and I bought one from Tombstone about 3-4 years ago for 500 and it was a 300 blackout caliber with a great setup for the money and I was planning on changing out the trigger, but I just could not do it! The trigger is so good for this rifle it falls into the if it's not broke don't fix it. I just tested it again with my Lyman gauge and it is between 3-4 lbs. which is perfectly fine for a range/hunting/home protection type rifle. I don't know if I got lucky or if they were standard issue from Bushmaster but being a competitive shooter from the Army way back in the 80's I know what to look for when shooting an AR rifle or M-16 which I shot competitive for 2 years in the Army. It was the only AR that I did not change the trigger on and it is now part of a 6MM ARC AR that I just had to the range and it shot very good at both 100 and 200 yds. Love the AR rifles and every time an idiot goes on a shooting rampage I cringe because the anti-gun fanatics will keep trying to find justification to take away our rights to shoot and enjoy our hobby of target shooting and hunting.
Very interesting video, thank you! I intended to listen in and skip stuff that isn't interresting to me and here I am, 1:23 into it and I still haven't skipped a minute. 😆
Loved the gunsmith analogy. Very true statement.
🤜🤛
Personally, I think the places to spend money are the barrel, the optics, the BCG, and maybe the trigger. Out of those, the barrel and the optics are the most important. I can buy cheap lowers, grips, foregrip, stock, and use a mil-spec trigger. Not a problem for me. What makes the biggest difference is the barrel and optic. Those things will help you so much. A quality BCG is also super important but you don't need to spend an arm and a leg for it. Simply get one that is capable and call it a day.
"Maybe" a trigger 🤔
@@Lovenlife139 I use the mil-spec trigger to great effect. It's not as important as the other parts I talked about.
I would have agreed about the mil-spec trigger until I got a LaRue Tactical MBT. It has a straight bow trigger which I LOVE and the action is so smooth. It comes with a few different weights of trigger springs (I like the 2.5). But I never knew a component would make that much of a difference. Maybe not in accuracy but just functionality.
Jp ent. braided spring is awesome! Especially suppressed!
Good video thanks dudes
Wish you guys would have posted a parts list of what’s in the basket/box. Great podcast as usual. Thanks
In my humble opinion, a lot of people sleep on relatively "basic" triggers, my first build has a CMMG parts kit "mil-spec" trigger (I'm assuming it was like maybe a "mil-spec enhanced" trigger) it has 0 creep and 0 pre-travel, it's mil spec heavy (a hair over 5 pounds) but it's very clean, and I am able to get very fast with it.
I don't consider myself a trigger snob, as long as the trigger isn't god-awful I'm pretty happy, but my favorite trigger has to be a binary trigger, because I still have the ability to take single carefully-aimed shots, or I can get stupid fast. I do really like flat-bow triggers for speed, it's just very easy to get very fast with a flat trigger.
Straight bow triggers are awsome, esp on a pistol or AR.
When I saw the BCG, I immediately asked myself “Why?” Unless you have a lot of experience and know exactly what you’re doing, there is ONE reason to stick with standard gas tube length, gas port size, buffer tube, buffer spring buffer weight and bolt carrier: *DEPENDABILITY*
In the early AR-10 prototypes the buffer and the bolt carrier were one part. If you take weight off the bolt carrier, you have to compensate for that loss of reciprocating mass *somewhere else*. If that’s a heavier buffer, you have accomplished exactly nothing. Otherwise, be prepared to experiment with springs, adjustable gas blocks, etc. but ask yourself “Why?” Before you go down that rabbit hole. All of those parts make up a system and you don’t need to reinvent it. Just use known good parts and move on.
There’s an old saying that “if I t’s not accurate, it’s not interesting.” Here we need an adage along the lines of “If it’s not 100% reliable, it’s not a rifle.”
You guys are definitely right about the touch points on the rifle. I’ve only ever swapped out 1 barrel because I didn’t like it, and that was just a weight thing, but I’ll go through 3 or 4 grips and/or stocks trying to get it to feel just right when I shoot it.
Rifles, bows, pool cues, hell even pens. It's just gotta feel right.
Charging handle makes a difference in overall feel as well
Very informative
Nice discussion!
I’ve been building my own ARs since the early 1980s. Usually not problem unless you change cartridges. If you turn and chamber your own barrels there are some things particular to AR gas guns that you need to keep in mind. I’ve seen factory guns in non-standard configuration that were half baked. Now a days there’s much more options. Regarding barrel life, my Krieger match barrels started to lose 600 yard accuracy at about 6,000 rounds. They would continue to shoot good at close range 100-300 for another 15,000 rounds. With cheaper barrels
I would get about 40% less barrel life in terms of 600 yard accuracy. So yes changing .223 barrels every year for a competitor is not uncommon and often necessary if you want to win competitions. Cheap 2 stage triggers are fine. You can mig build up the tail in the disconnector and then fit it so that the second stage is clean a crisp just like a high dollar trigger. This is the beauty of ARs. Anyone can be a gun plumber!
Very informative. I've owned so many guns in my life, only recently started down the AR rabbit hole. I have some that have more in accessories than the original halves. I love love FAB gradus grips & MFT minimalist stocks and have too many Surefire muzzle devices. Just tried my 1st 2-stage trigger. Not sold on Magpul.
Great content👍🇺🇸
First I want to thank you for these videos. I learn a lot from them. Now with that said, I want to get my 2 cents in on this topic. Please forgive me. I am only 14 minutes into this video. I will watch the entire video, but I have some place I need to be right now and I wanted to get my comments in while they are fresh on my mind.
The 1st thing I want to comment on was Jim's comment about how a factory built gun felt better than one that he "hobbled together." If you are "hobbling together" guns, STOP!! Please STOP!! I have personally witnessed the results of a "hobbled together" gun. It is amazing how important a properly installed roll pin can be. Since you don't like the feel of a gun you build anyway, please let me recommend that you buy, not "hobble together" your guns. Now, let me tell you why I build most of my guns and all of my ARs.
The primary reason(s) I build my own guns are so that I know exactly what is in the gun and how it was put together. I know that the barrel nut has anti-seize on it and it won't be a nightmare to get off when I need to change the barrel. I know that all the torque specs are correct. I know my headspace is correct and I know that the castle nut and gas block are properly staked. Building from the ground up saves me from having a bunch of left-over parts that I will never use, because I had to upgrade that off-the-shelf gun. What started me building my own ARs was my experience with a Sig MCX. I hated the trigger, so I put a Geissele SSA in it. Then it had to go back to Sig twice for recalls. I changed out the handguard because I really didn't like the feel of the stock aluminum handguard. I put on a buffer tube with a Magpul stock because I hated the skeleton stock, and there have been many other necessary modifications. After doing all that, it seemed to make more since to [research] the type of gun I wanted, [research] the best parts for the gun I wanted and then [learn] how to properly assemble the gun. To date, my system has not failed. Bottom line. If you are willing to [research] and [learn] what to use and how to put it together, you can build a better gun than you can ever buy.
Love the content 👍🏽very informative wondering if it’s possible to bookmark each area of discussion so we can find a section and go back to it later. It would make the video more user friendly
I don't try to build something I already have. I have 6 ARs and they all serve a purpose
1 16" 223 wylde
1 16" 762x39 side charging
1 16" 458 Socom
1 10.5" 300 ACC blackout
1 7.5" 9mm
1 11.85" 223 wylde long stroke piston driven
I'm working on a an AR-45, an AR-10mm, and a AR-6.5 grendel.
I find it hard to truly finish the projects I already have. I'm still needing the triggers I truly want in 2 rifles, some CQB and PDW stocks and braces on 2, maybe a radian Raptor in all 6 with 3 already sporting them, having extra buffers in different weights, side folding adapters, buffers and grips in different colors and textures, like I have a list of all the parts I want and it comes to like $8,000 and that's no uppers or lowers just parts... this hobby sucks at blowing $
Oh and don't get me on optics. I spend $500-$1,500 on optics on each rifle with LPVO being the new fashion for your AR. My Swampfox 1-10, Aimpoint T2 and Trijicon RMR were like $2,000 by themselves. God hates my wallet.
Of course I have a bunch of vortex stuff too. Love my strike Eagle, Venom, viper, and optics planet exclusive Sparc AR in fde.
I like your style… also test positive for BRD
A flashlight, a laser, a chainsaw.....where do I buy that? This is a great podcast, keep them coming, great information thank you
I build mine basically to pass them down to my son one day. I want him to have thing's that I put my thought and blood into. It's different when a company mass produces them, in my opinion.
I would have benefitted from this video 6-7 years ago. I jumped into the deep end on my first build... based on Mega Arms MATEN stripped upper and lower. EVERY component "hand" picked. In the end, there's no such thing as a free lunch. several redundant purchases $$ = lessons learned. The rifle is a beast. Biggest challenge was matching a the rifle length adjustable gas system to buffer. Ejector smear on case heads ended up being too much gas and too much mass on JP SCS buffer. Got that sorted, but didn't shoot the rifle for near a year while I researched. I didn't know what questions to ask the inter web. In contrast, my first ever AR, a Sig 516 Patrol...super reliable but handgaurd, buttstock, trigger and charging handle all changed out. Now I enjoy shooting both.
How did you have set up issues with a rifle length gas system and adjustable gas block? I mean lol those two combined are quite literally the "easy button".
@@nateburns5933 One would think, right. In retrospect the variables; barrel gas port size and alignment, the variable gas block itself, buffer and spring, lubrication. My inexperience being critical nexus. These few years later I've yet to tear it down and rebuild with new knowledge and some new tools. It's a journey. 🤓
As a lefty who has shot right handed guns most my life, the only thing I NEED to be ambi is my charging handle. Aside from that, I run my lower basically the same way you guys were saying why righties like ambi controls. I hit my mag release with my off hand thumb and hit my bolt release with my trigger finger
I just got hand me down firearms from my grandma she had a 20 Guage single shot and a few .22's with 2 wicker baskets full of various ammo and two ammo empty boxes you gotta love the wicker baskets grandma approved
I’ve always wondered how the aluminum upper receiver doesn’t wear with the steel bolt carrier running along inside it.
Magic and Eugene Stoner spit. Just stating facts.
@@BadazzShovelhead Lol. Of course. I should have guessed.
This is true. I imagine that it's a combination of machining tolerances within the tunnel that the bolt carrier travels in and the self-limiting polishing action of the bolt carrier on the aluminum (irregularities are worn away with use).
Wild guess though :)
Bought mine a few years ago. Going to build a 6.5 grendel upper for it. I am currently building a whole rifle for a friend who wants to get into the ar game
Good luck I went through that awhile back and for some reason I really broke my brain over thinking it. In my mind I was thinking intermediate range precision and got WAY too hung up on it. I ended up with a really nice shooting rifle but man my tiny lizard brain can't go through that again.
Priceless! Great discussion.
Th last 5 minutes are the most hilarious part 🤣😂🤣😂
I'm in IT and always say the same thing about building your own computer, at the end of the day you can't match the resources of a factory that produces 1000s of this one model and there will always be things you miss, like optimal airflow, combination of parts, drivers, etc
Love y'all!!! Except the grips. Long live the A2!! Thank God for Hogue and the rubberized A2.
I hooked. My next build I want a 7.62 in the AR platform
Did you get to the 7.62 hopefully 7.62 * 39
I really love mark's operator beard
The brn-180 has my attention. I've seen a bullpup configuration that uses 3d printed parts..
lol i just bought a reliable full upper. and simple lower. so i had a working gun to begin with and replaced the most important parts, over time. i went trigger first. then watched a video where a guy tested over 200 muzzle breaks/comps. and picked the one with the best performance. i still need get a buffer and spring. and a stock, lol i can manage with the cheapo airsoft stock they gave me with the lower. but otherwise gun still has never had 1 malfunction while chugging all the wolf steel i put thru it. also chose to get a cmmg .22 converter bolt over a ruger 10/22. just so i can use the AR im dropping all this gucci gear in.
I'm glad I got the premium detent... 😂🤣😂
Yes I agree podcast on tuning. One ambi control every one should have is the safety selector
8:00 - regarding limited availability for lower receivers, 3D printing is a very viable option. Hoffman or Wildfire are two great options.
3-D is plastic.. grab your nut and get a jig and a router and cut your own 80% lowers.
@@Lovenlife139 I concur that taking a PLA lower into the Arizona desert is a bad move, but if you are in a colder/milder climate Plastic is just as good and a lot simpler than milling out a lower from aluminum. But yes, if you want your lower to be just as good as what you get through the FFL, yes aluminum.
This may have been said already but in my opinion, and I may be wrong, but as long as a lower is mill spec and functions as it should, place a decent drop-in trigger...it should have zero impact on how accurate or well the rifle runs. To me the most important items are the trigger and the barrel and thirdly would be the bcg. You can have the cheapest free float handguard, cheap grip, 80% finished out lower and cheap stock.. but decent trigger and decent one MOA barrel with a good compensator and you should be shooting as well as any high-end rifle. Again, this is my opinion, somewhat backed up by building one like this. Am I missing something or totally wrong?
Most manufacturers parts will not meet the mill spec TDP tolerances..The chamber is one of the most poorly manufactured part that escapes peoples radar..There are expensive function gauges that most so called experts don't even know exist that is needed to check chambers..Then you have the 3 bores in the bolt carrier that most so called experts have no clue about..Go to the School of the American Rifle if you want to watch a real expert..
Great video men 👍, enjoyed it much better point of view than most channels , but that word failed came up all guns have their moments but a malfunction at a match is crazy stuff to me. I love ARS but you can get to farr away from what it was intended to do, with specs one change may be just enough to make it less reliable than a hammer.
Straight up, I lose my mind if I can't complete an AR build in 6 months. I am by no means rich, but I will sacrifice unimportant things in my life to finish any AR that I start from the minute the lower is in my possession.
I feel that, lol. I have a lower that I finished a month a month ago, and it's annoying me that I haven't had a chance to start on an upper for it.
12.5” middy FTW!!!
First you start with a barrel. It is what you need to decide what you want to do. Even in the video when he grabs for everything he grabbed for the barrel first. It matters the most for accuracy or bore size needed for that lower receiver. I did enjoy the show.
Magpul Miad w bottle of G96, "G" triggers, Vortex Optics. Try a CROSSFIRE SCOUT 3x9 on it. 9" eye relief is wonderful for brush hunting hogs.
I was going to build an ar. Through the shopping process I found the ruger ar 556 mpr. Essentially this is the rifle I would have built for myself so I took the lazy way out and just bought it. Im sure the factory fit and finish surpasses what I could have built and for my first rifle, I probably ended up with a more reliable end product. To each their own I guess.
That's the best AR for the money in the market today. But I would spend the $800 for the version with the cold hammer forged, chrome lined barrel and carrier.
I really wanna see a segment on this subject but in accurizing an ar. Making an ar a precision shooter..
Step 1. Git gud. List over.
the portion about "is it a model?"....
if you don't really have enough experience to know what parts you want, then buy a model because it is a commodity and can be resold most easily because other people can know a lot about it by knowing which model it is.
if you want to try a specific part (s) or want an uncommon configuration or like parts of different models, then you kind of have to do a build. it will be harder to resale, but presumably, if for some reason you don't like a part, you can replace it with a different part without changing a "model" into a "Frankengun" because it already is a "Frankengun". most guns, that are not collectable, you will sell as a loss (unless it is discontinued or something) because the store buys wholesale and you buy retail, so you are unlikely to get back what you put in. as a result buying something new with an idea of resale value requires specific knowledge of what parts/firearms are worth or will potentially worth (i.e. you are investing, not using)
it is not as economically sound to build from parts in a lot of cases, so unless you have a specific need, it is less financially risky to buy a pre configured model. but if you want something specific, it might be hard to find what you want pre-made by a reputable company.
From what I understand, the reason magpul didn't go with keymod was because their polymer accessories didn't interface well with the way keymod attached
“Let’s get into hand guards”
“Let’s go fishing”
Haha, yeah boi!
🍻
Your building and you start with a 80% because you are building. Spend the extra money on high end parts to get a great gun. JP Enterprises bolt, Proof Research barrel, JP buffer, Timney trigger, Timber Creek carbon handguard, A2 gas block. Some of my favorite parts! But building requirements would include lapping the upper lapping the scope mount using the proper lubricants torque of the barrel alignment of the glass block and tune a gas block. Stake the buffer tube ring and.viber tite anything with a bolt.
I’ve heard from 3 large manufacturers now (my own inquiries) that nickle boron BCGs are just not as good and typically cause failures more often than not. Can you guys do a podcast just on BCGs or is there one out there right now?
Nickle boron is terrible..Go to the School of the American Rifle if you want a real expert opinion..
@@hairydogstail I’ll check it out. Thank you!
*I want a squre wheel" hilarious
I actually wouldn't mind a better detent for my safety 😂 it feels a little bit loose
I must say i have had my lower just waiting for almost 8 years now... finally im getting to it
Frank Galli at Snipers Hide equates barrels just like tires. They are a wear item that will need to be replaced at some point.
Very true!
You know I Got that ADM with the catch and release 😂
"Let's go to hand guards"
"Let's go fishing"
Lol. That go a chuckle out of me
A bit late, but I look at it as proportions
So, my barrel, BCG, and trigger will make up the largest bulk of the cost
That said, for as nice as a Geissele trigger is.. I tend to go for the LaRue MBT
For the lower receiver, I really only look at feel, look, and the magwell flare
Small things like mag release buttons can also make a big difference in the feel of operation.. BUT, kits like B. Kings "Combat Control" LPK cover that for just a bit more than "standard" LPKs (they ship fast too and have good buffer tube kits with 8 pos tubes & sprinco springs)
I have all mlok and pic with a single Keymod but I also wish keymod won. It’s much easier and seems like it’s easier to get the accessories back in the exact position.
This is on heavy buffer a heavy buffer will help with jam stove pipe and it be all together smother there thinking backwards a heavy spring will make sure bullet chambers correct and the weight out weighs the recoil so I wonder how his 9 mm buffer tube is doing in ar 15 223
"if it's over 150 dollars, it's probably a good trigger"
Mark Larue has entered the chat
I feel like they get off track when talking about barrel materials. Seems they know history, but Doesn't seem like many of them know the metallurgy going on and the actual properties of each material. Which CAN BE very important.
4140CMV Vs 4150CMV is probably the most important, the change is the quantiy of carbon, 4150 has more carbon, and thus is harder and more weather resistant (because iron rusts, carbon doesnt)
Chrome lining is much harder than steel and is temperature increases steal gets softer(wears faster) because how hard the chrome is and resistant to temp, increases the life due to the sand blasting talked about with muzzle devices.
Now, a lot of manufacturers simply use nitriding, (a process significantly more expensive and cumbersome) which chemically changes the surface hardness almost to that of chrome lining.
Chrome lined barrels get a bad rap for not being accurate, due to the coating process, BASICALLY, they oversize the bore/rifling to accommodate the additional material. If you've seen galvanized steel how it's usually rough with "pimples", it's similar with chrome lining, so the accuracy is EXTREMELY dependent on the lapping/polishing process. This is also where "barrel break-in" became popularized, because poorly lapped barrels got MORE ACCURATE after a few hundred rounds. (High temp/velocity metal and powder smoothing the bore/filling pits.
CHF actually changes the molecular structure of the steel by tightly packing the molecules. This does 2(many but probably most notable) things: makes the barrel stiffer/stronger (like forged vs billet receivers) and more importantly you don't have the inconsistent harnesses/ STRESS from cutting the barrel. (Many have probably heard the term stress relieving barrels [at least custom rifle peeps]) this is also done largely by the lapping process. (Bergara is a GREAT resource to study because (I BELIEVE) all or most of their barrels are CHF and hand lapped to extreme tolerances (.0001")
Stainless steel is known as super accurate because it has always used those processes (at least lapping) and it's generally VERY CONSISTENT. Partially because contrary to regular steel, stainless steel gets HARDER when you had heat(certain amounts obviously). Meaning stiffer, less barrel whip, more consistent shot placement which = accuracy.
But for the most part the modern market has weeded out garbage and developed good processes provided you buy from a reputable manufacturer.
Regardless, for MOST SHOOTERS. NONE OF THIS MATTERS.
The best part of a build is the research. The worst experience is if you ask too many people for their opinion. My first build I started with an Armalite lower and I ran into some frustration as the buffer tube for example was commercial size and other areas were milspec. IT has been 14 yrs so I may misremember it but I don't recall any issues other than the buffer tube but it did make me doubt stuff.
Ambidextrous stuff makes me laugh because it’s only for lefty shooters yet a lot of people need to have it
ARs are grown ups Lego sets
I ordered every part I needed from classic firearms and Optics Planet they came all everything came to my house within 2 days for classic firearms and a week for Optics Planet I have every part required to build the AR I am currently in another state as soon as I get home I'm building it
Daaaang. I’m a Boomer and I listen to your podcast! 24:14 Ouch!
I'm also a boomer. Sometimes they forget who wiped their asses and noses (in that order) They will only understand humility when the f'up generation below them rules. :)
I'm assuming the cheek spreader you're talking about is the cheek rest or comb riser??? LOL it sounds funny but I'm kind of curious what exactly you're talking about...
It is only used in a seated position.
@@fivex4756 LMAO
I ordered the receiver from classic firearms and it was at the ffl in 2 days
I wish you had shown more or talked more about the side charging AR.....ive never seen on in use.
That's because it's dumb on an AR
@@matthouston8411 i agree after shooting a friends. I didnt realize you have to take the side charger off to get the bolt out. Way to much more work if you have an issue.
@@bradbo3 yep, and non standard parts. I wasn't calling you dumb btw, just saying the change in parts is kinda dumb and limits the ability to buy other cool parts. Personally a good ambidextrous charging handle is where to improve feel/ergonomics.
lol the outro 🤣
The fact that its 2022 and the ar doesn’t come with ambi mag and safety as standard is unacceptable.
I’m a lefty, but the safety is faster when you use both sides.
Your thumb moves from safe to fire.
As soon as you are done and your finger moves off the trigger and as it slides out of the trigger guard it also contacts the other side of the Safety bringing it back to safe. It takes less time to get back on safe and requires no extra movement or eyes to execute.
Am I mag release because lefties like mag flips too.
I wish there was mention of the AR-10 pattern. What to look for as far as part compatibility, where the reliability issues arise/mitigation, what parts are AR-15 compatible etc. General themes are the same, but for the newbies who didn't pay attention to what they're buying and get frustrated. (Guilty)
@vettelover2009 on your barrel. What options did you get? I know the cryo treatment is about 100 bucks but I'm debating if it's worth it.
A Boomer who watches Podcasts and still found it interesting
Fun fact I hung onto one lower for 12 years before I decided what to do with it.
It’s hilarious that I came here with a plan to build and left with a plan to buy a complete AR. Aim has changed from custom to finding the company with the best QC and pull the trigger on the cheapest they got. Change out the touch points and a $300ish LPVO/Red dot + magnifier and be done with it.
Same now, I know why my Ar9 had some hiccups in the build. And I've been looking at shops that build them for u but those price.
I say don't do it.
@@alexgrinage dang bro.. that must be upsetting to say the least! I hope you’re able to source the issue and get it changed out asap! I’m actually looking at other peoples builds that work on both forums, yt vids and comments as I still have hopes in building mine. Difference is less one off and more reliable. That said, I doubt any custom build will ever have the tolerances and reliability of a reputable company with extraordinary QC. In that regard, three companies come to mind from my research. Sons of Liberty, Q and Radical Firearms. I’m sure there’s more but those are the ones I’ve done extensive research on, regarding QC protocols.
57:00 what are the "hunting opportunities" oh an AR pistol he was talking about?
Do you nead or want ambi controls 5:35
No but left only means learning to not use the wrong side controls with a new order of operation and weeks of new muscle memory drills . May as we go to a different platform.
It's not only about the cost of the brace compared to the NFA tax stamp but you are legally allowed to conceal carry a "pistol" AR but not a SBR AR. Just the stupid laws that we are made to follow.
Exactly I can have a loaded AR pistol in my car but it's illegal for me to have a loaded AR rifle
So he replaced his barrel after 34k rounds. That's like $17,000 figuring $500 per 1000 bullets. I don't know about you but not many people have 17k to blow down the range. The cost to changing that barrel is a fraction of the cost of those bullets.
Your build should start, where it starts. The organic build just means more, and suites me well. Stop all the fancy talk, and relate to the guy that has to budget, barter, grind, and build around his vision. I'll take that build any day.