Current versions of Guerlain classics Liu, Nahema, Apres L'Ondee perfume reviews on LAFS episode 291
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 ก.ค. 2024
- #LoveAtFirstScent #Perfume #Persolaise #PerfumeReview #Guerlain
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Episode 291 of Love At First Scent
This was a TH-cam Live broadcast streamed on Sunday 26th June 2022. Unscripted. Unedited. Unrehearsed.
In this episode, I reviewed the current formulations of three Guerlain classics: Apres L'Ondee (1906), Liu (1929) and Nahema (1979).
Introduction 0:00
Nahema 6:27
Apres L'Ondee 14:11
Liu 19:39
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Here comes the blotter update…
I am pleased and relieved to report that both Nahema and Apres L’Ondee are in wonderful condition. The latter is perhaps a tiny bit different from the iteration I last had in a bee bottle (the violet may be stronger and the iris may be weaker, which would make the whole less melancholy) but it is essentially the same beauty we know and love. Nahema is as fiery and tempestuous as ever, if marginally less tenacious, but I wouldn’t swear to that. As Liu develops alongside No. 5 edt, the differences between them (slight though they are) become more noticeable. The Guerlain is more ‘bass’ and animalic, whereas the Chanel keeps nipping at the wings of the angels.
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[Samples provided by the brand.]
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Persolaise is not affiliated in any way to any brands*, wholesalers, retailers or organisations involved with the fragrance industry. All reviews are entirely independent. Content is never 'sponsored' by any external agencies. Some reviews are based on samples provided by brands; others are based on samples obtained by the author. This has no bearing on the content of the reviews.
[* In November 2020, I was commissioned to complete a writing project by the brand Amouage. The project may or may not have a bearing on the scents released by the brand from 2021 onwards. At the time of writing this note, my intention is to continue mentioning and reviewing all Amouage scents released up to the end of 2020, except in posts/articles where perfumes from several brands are included and presented as part of a selection/collection (eg ‘best of’ posts and lists).]
Copyright 2022 Dariush Alavi and Parfums Persolaise. All rights reserved. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Re Nahema: I was one of those people that thought it was just too much rose for me and something I would rather smell on someone else. Yet I took my sample out and sprayed it while listening to you. Now that it’s gotten to the dry down and you mentioned how abstract is, I imagine smelling a bit of cardamom and somehow in the warm weather I can appreciate it’s powdery facet and can almost imagine myself donned in this 1001 nights princess - esque costume of a scent. Thank you for this insight! And now maybe a cardamom coffee: also learned from you. By the way love your going on a tangent way of story telling. Bought the book Holes for my son based on a tip from you also and he seems to enjoy it! So thanks for that as well!
P.s. Not only threw a couple of cardamom pods in my coffee but inspired by the whole Nahema theme added a spoon of rose petal jam into the coffee. Good heavens, this is really enjoyable!
Oh wow, this is wonderful, thank you. And Holes is just genius: I’d love to re-read to a child.
I’m intrigued by the thought of rose jam in coffee.
you are simply the most reliable and knowledgeable reviewer on YT
That’s too kind, Sara. Thank you.
I never tried Après l'ondée , I ordered it blind and what can I say - it's a masterpiece!
Such melancholic elegance, a beautiful scent of an ending Epoque - for me its very old austrian in a way...
I will definitely hunt for the extrait- not an easy task here in the hidden parts of Austria.
Thank you very much 😊
It’s really special. One of my favourite scents.
Thanks for watching.
Chanel no5 is the alter ego amongst aldehydic florals of its time and maybe of all times. It shares too many aspects (notes/composition) with Liu for one not to, spontaneously and directly, make the comparison between the two.
I would still like to suggest giving Liu a chance as the perfume it is. It was not supposed to be no5 and the perfectly balanced smooth composition makes me think of Shalimar edc, which for some is the more wearable version of the famous classic as the "edges" have been "rounded" and the animalic notes toned down. The two perfumes seem to represent a shift in style of perfumer Jacques Guerlain, and in a serene and harmonious way mark the end of the roaring twenties in which the bold compositions of Shalimar and no5 were protagonists. Even nowadays there are people who struggle with the dissonant abstraction of no5 and this must have been even more so back in the day when it was the first of its kind. Those people will have found in Liu their alternative aldehydic floral scent. A very elegant rose and jasmine on a sandalwood base. Very classy indeed.
As always, thanks very much, Heinke.
As a late-blooming perfume experimenter, I appreciate you revisiting these 'new' classics. I have this recent Nahema and absolutely love it. I purchased it based on your many reviews of the scent and as a 'sophisticated rose' recommendation by Alice du Parcq. I haven't had the opportunity to try earlier versions of Nahema so I cannot compare, but I am truly moved by the qualities of this current version/bottle.
Thank you, Lori (St. John's, Newfoundland & Labrador, Canada)
Thank you so much, Lori. And yes, Nahema is heavenly.
That you for this great episode, Mr. P! I will never ever tire of you talking about the wonderful classics from Guerlain. I own many of them in fairly recent versions and I agree that they are still very special and haunting.
After watching this, I’m now sitting here with Liu on the one arm, No 5 on the other and Nahema on a handkerchief. What a way to start this week!
Wow! You must smell amazing.
Very interesting and good to know that we can still get Nahema and Apre londree in such good form . Thank you 🙏 x
Thanks very much, Angela.
Liu is true art. The last note is characteristic. It is a fragrance that does not exist in eau de toilette. It is like the ashes of God. It is probably shaped by certain materials, sandalwood, coumarin, and aldehydes. Jacques Guerlain discovered a miracle in the combination of simple ingredients. He was an exceptional artist.
It's very beautiful.
Thanks for watching.
Good grief I can't believe I've missed this live. I've been eyeing Apres forever.
It's a must-have.
I love the way you describe Hahema.
Thanks for watching.
Thoroughly enjoyable & insightful critique of rebottled classics. Love Apres always & now want Nahema as well. Liu doesn’t speak to me, want rebottled Vol De Nuit as well. Thanks for a mesmerizing video, made me day Monsieur Persolaise!
Thank YOU, John.
Love your videos❤
Thanks very much indeed.
As a longtime Guerlain fan I am sorry I missed this live episode, but luckily I had some time to watch it just now. Very glad to hear these classics are still worth their money. I think I will go after that Nahéma edp while it’s still available. Thanks for the inspiration Mr. P.! 🌸👌🏻🙏🏻
Thank YOU for watching, Annemieke.
A brilliant description of Nahema! Your description is incredible. "Spins and pulls you in like a spell...!_ Bubbling and spinning." Magic! I just ordered it and am a Rose lover looking for my Signature Scent.
Oh, I hope you love it. Please let me know.
@@Persolaise Oh My-again, Oh My! After a long search (over at least six years), I've found "The One". Huge thank you for introducing me to this truly magical potion. I've found my Signature Scent! Nahema is Divine💖🥰 LOVE at First Sniff!
@@lisahilton9616 I'm so happy to read this.
I’ve put this comment here earlier today and then I deleted it later by mistake. Sorry about that! So I’m going to try and recreate it because I really do love Liu. But first thank you so much for reviewing it! I’m glad to hear that I was not the only one to badger you for this review. Although I can completely relate to why you would prefer no 5, it seems that those aspects that make no 5 preferable for you are the same ones that make no 5 a tad too much for me personally to take on a regular basis. I think no 5 is a beauty in its own right, but I prefer it less frequently or would rather smell it on someone else. Liu is where I feel less is more. It’s like a minimalistic outfit next to the embroidered frilly dress of no 5. It’s a different version of that high heeled shoe that is no 5, where the heel is gone and you can throw it on, enjoy a walk and still feel elegant. It’s a cosy restaurant with lovingly prepared exquisite food next to a Michelin star experience that is too stiff to experience too often. It’s a single pearl necklace instead of a whole string of pearls. Also the mystery around Liu’s creation story is so intriguing. Liu is not only the character of Puccini’s Turandot opera but it also means 6 in Chinese. The number 6 that was Guerlain’s answer to no 5. Yes, I feel we do need Liu in our world of fragrance or at least I personally do. With so many less worthy products on the market I hope we get to keep this jewel.
Thanks for this, Natalie. I love how we look for subtle differences in scents that are quite similar to each other.
You and your expert viewers have sold me on Nahema, Mr. P! I'm going to order myself a bottle!
I really hope you like it.
@@Persolaise I am positive I will!
Hello to you from Los Angeles, CA.
I’m so curious to try these “new” ones. I have the new Nahema because I ran out of my extrait, and love it so much. It’s different from the lushness of the extrait which is so difficult to get now. I wear it often these days.
Another feel good review! Guerlain is a great house.
Cheers!!
Thanks, Lynn.
I don't know how I manage to miss every live!
Anyway, Après l'ondée is one of my favourite perfumes (of course I've never known the original version) even though it doesn't last half an hour...
Maybe disable and re-enable notifications...?
update (just because...): now I'm in love wiith Nahema too!!! It's a heartbreak for a girl with limited financial means! 💔 My first and truelove Is always Shalimar, though! Well, I just love Guerlain!
Hi Mr. P! I’ve been so intrigued from listening to you talk about Nahema for about three years now. They don’t carry it in South Korea so I could only imagine what it smelled like from your descriptions. Well, I’ve finally ordered Nahema, Apres, and Samsara from Paris. And I’m FINALLY re-watching all your Nahema videos (for the hundredth time), while sniffing my arm that I’ve drenched in Nahema!!! I’m so in love with it! It’s heart-breakingly beautiful!! But I find the longevity surprisingly short. can you please do the update video on projection and longevity?
It makes me so happy to read this.
I can't say I've ever found the longevity to be a problem. Maybe your nose gets 'blind' to it quite quickly.
Ahh! You replied!!
I did think that. 😢 Hopefully it won’t be that way forever.
Anyway Merry Christmas to you! ❤
love these bottles
Thanks for watching.
I'm happy to have the original Nahema bottles from 1979, they were so modern, circle shaped almost like pharmacy bottles and so cool! The reformulation into pink roses are from the later years, though not bad just to be clear about that. The original perfume was abundant with yellow roses, - and lots of fruity peach, very exciting! In addition to all the other things you mention. To me it seems that all versions have a hint of carnation in the dry down. However, all ingredients are so well balanced in this masterpiece, it makes my head spin
This is fascinating to read, thank you. I have an older tester bottle somewhere too, and yes, it’s peachier.
I've seen the original Nahema perfume bottle and "such a beautiful, beautiful bottle!" And I know that it wasn't even available in the United States for a long, long time.
As someone over at Guerlain once told me that they thought it was a little bit Avant Garde for the American market,but I'm glad that it's available now.
And I might just try it,next I recently just got L'Heure Blue, and I absolutely love it!
And just curious what do you think of Jicky?
I've heard alot of good stuff about Jicky but have never tried it myself.
@@chancycat9822 You'll find my thoughts on Jicky here: persolaise.com/2020/10/guerlain-jicky-extrait-review-aime-guerlain-1889.html
Your description of apres londee almost made me cry.
Oh dear. In a good way, I hope.
@@Persolaise Yes. In a good deep profound way. Thank you for articulating so beautifully.
Thanks!
Extremely kind, thank you.
Thank you for the video. I’ve been exploring Guerlain classics recently. Just started my fragrance journey. 😁 At the moment I have Mitsouko, Samsara, Insolence and L’Instant de Guerlain. Love all of them. Really looking forward to getting to know Nahema and Apres l’Ondee. I was hesitating cause I could find only these new bottles but now I don’t worry anymore, thanks to you. ☺️ Would be great if you could say what you think about newest Jicky, Champs-Elysees, Vol de Nuit and L’Heure Bleue.
Thanks, Xenia. I’m curious to try the others too.
@@Persolaise Can I ask another question? What is your thoughts on Champs-Elysees? I’ve checked your website and didn’t find anything there. ☺️
Mitsouko is in this new bottle as well. Nahema is the only perfume my younger son ever commented on, how lovely it was, to my absolute surprise (he's 10. It reminds me somehow of Rouge Hermès.
Your son has great taste!
I am looking for a extrail from the first formula of nahema because of you I hope to find it some day.
Fingers crossed!
The new Nahema is really amazing. Much better than the previous bee battle one. A red rose is coming out of the green - geranium, spices- and it is going all the way from a bud to the rich fruity heart reaching a patchouli bottom.
I was actually looking for Rose Etoille de Hollande by Mona di Orio first edition. Or anything that would smell like the one and only Rose Etoille
Good to know, Hazikit. Thank you.
I dislike the new Guerlain sans serif logo and I miss their old bottles.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you so much for reviewing the current versions of these classics! The side by side of Liu and No.5 was very helpful. Liu is difficult to get in the US and doesn't sound like I need to go through the trouble.
I wouldn’t say you need to go to tons of trouble, no.
Get to know Liu a bit more, believe me, it starts like No. 5 a bit, but it goes much more into the abstract with references to Jicky’s dry down and woodier nuances. Also, it’s quite herbal
I sure hope you get a hold of Jardins de Bagatelle because I recently smelled the new bottle reformulation and was captivated although I feel like there is a cucumber note that did not sit well with me. I should've tested it on my skin.
I’ll have to try to seek it out.
@@Persolaise I look forward to your review. I hope Jardins de Bagatelle doesn't disappoint
Great video! Did you smell the new Mitsouko edp? Can you compare it to the older edp? I want to know whether it is true that the 2021 Mitsouko just changed the bottle and nothing else...
Sorry, no, I haven’t tried a new-ish Mitsouko.
Do you think you could compare the new LIDGE bottle vs the listerine vs any of the OG bottles (dark rim/clear rim)
I’ll see what I can do.
Thanks for the video. Re: Liu, do you know where I can purchase it in the United States? I haven't been able to locate it.
I’m so sorry, no I don’t. Have you tried contacting Guerlain, to see if they can help?
Thanks for watching.
I just have to ask, have you ever reviewed the Guerlain Chant d'aromes??? I personally haven't come across it, but before blind buying, I trust your opinion only among the YT perfume pages. 🧡
That's very kind, thank you. No, I'm pretty sure I haven't. I'll have to address that one day.
@@Persolaise, your opinion would be very appreciated! This perfume could be a dark horse or simply very dated, but it is interesting none the less.
So the new Apres L'Ondee is similar to the bee bottle, but how about the vintage? I need to get my hands on some L'Ondee but I don't know if I can start from the new one or just hunt down the good stuff...
Personally, I really love the current one.
Mr P, is it worth getting the current formulation of Nahema in the EDT? Is there a lot 'missing' in that one? Sounds like the EDP is the one to get, but it is unavailable from the sites that ship to my region. Think I should wait, should it turn up someday?
If that’s the only version you can get, I would say Yes.
@@Persolaise Thanks!
Can't find the blotter updates 😔
I haven’t done them yet 😉
When's the last time you tried Jardins de Bagatelle? I sent back my bottle of Pivoine Magnifica and picked up a 1985 bottle of Bagatelle EDT for only $10. I hear it has quite a jammy Rose note which may scratch my itch for opulent peonies as well as the torrent of other flowers. Especially the Muguet, which you've noted is endangered of being removed from all of these. The 86% juice looks like honey compared to the modern tap water.
@@en.chamade Hey Emel. IDK about lucky. Maybe when it comes to buying perfume😅. I haven't gotten it yet. Just bid on it today. I'll let you know what I think of it when it comes in. 👍 Have you smelled it and what versions? What's your opinion?
@@en.chamade I've heard the new versions are not rich, quite soapy, aldehydic, and the Lilly of the valley note is gone. Thank you for the beautiful description of the ones you have. Like a floral centric chypre. Does it have Oakmoss in your opinion? It's not listed. I've only smelled two Guerlain's so far. 2012 Habit Rouge EDT and 2011 Mitsuoko EDT. The Habit Rouge is gorgeous, even without smelling any originals but the Mitsouko for now falls flat for me. Atleast for now. Maybe it needs awhile to develop after being first sprayed, which sometimes happens. To me, this Mitsuoko smells mostly of an acrid tree moss, a bit of Jasmine, a dark Patchouli that to me, comes across as a "gourmet chocolate peanut butter cup", the tiniest bit of peach and vetiver.
@@en.chamade I haven't smelled L'instant pour femme either.
@@en.chamade Ooh. I do love galbanum, artemisia and coriander. I'll definitely let you know. I wish I could get any older bottle of Nahema but they're like $200 minimum.
Habit Rouge is a gorgeous fragrance. Signature scent worthy for me. I wanted to get a 1994 EDC bottle but I'm afraid it will have turned do to it being around 20-25% citrus based.
@@en.chamade I have yet to get my nose on any Maurice Roucel perfumes. I do have a couple bottles of Krizia's Teatro alla Scalla, which is a very floral, spicy chypre with a prominent beeswax and waxy, suede esque iris flower note. I've heard many famous parfumiers such as Roucel have done work for Krizia.
Great job👌 but I have to say this I prefer the vintage versions of those great scents! New reformulations are not my cup of tea! The current version of chamade is awful👎 cheerio mate🍻
Thanks for watching 😊
@@Persolaise you're welcome amigo😉
Tout à fait d’accord. Les reformulations sont des amputations pures et simples de ce qui faisait la splendeur poétique des anciennes créations. Un désastre à mon avis.
@@francoisegury je suis d'accord avec vous👌
Question on Nahema: why would I want this if I already adore POAL? Im asking as if I want you to sell it to me. I need it bc...
Thanks for indulging. Im having a rose moment. xo
To me, it's not an either/or situation. They're quite different scents. Portrait is about berries, incense, rose and tons of patchouli. Nahema is a hyper-fantastical, supernatural, fiery rose.
You need BOTH ;-)
This channel is not good for people on budgets 😅
@@Persolaise Jenny adds to cart. Thanks Mr. P xo
@@LiaAndrews The B word is way worse than any c word. 😏
@@jennyjenny293, Nahema is really something else. I can't think of any other word than Devine.
I knew Nahema when it was launched, I was at university. it took me a year to accept this fragrance but after that it was the real crush. I recently smell nahema at Guerlain, and I must say my great disappointment. I had trouble recognizing the scent; For me it has nothing of the original
Ah, that’s such a shame.
It would be helpful to smell an original bottle.
Thanks for watching.
I hope the frag-bots will behave!
Me too!