You sir, are my hero! I would love to spend a week down under practicing similar work! Currently working on a Ferrari 360 and scratching my head how to do multi part molds for doors, fenders & bumpers. Excellent skills!
Hey, still enjoying your videos. I was just curios when I started to watch your videos and I could not find the front clip videos where you used the green gealcoat. But I found the: „How to make Fiberglas split molds.“ and I got my answer. It is now 8 years. Thank you for your videos and stay safe. Best wishes from Berlin. PS: 8 years. It’s ca. 2/3 of my life haha
Sir Your videos are mesmerizing. So much of unique knowledge and how to, it's priceless. Thank You for making them. I was repairing fiber and plastic car body pieces in the past but always thought that I need vacuum table to made my own big parts. Thanks to You I'm convinced now to make some body parts for my current project car from fiberglass and don't worry anymore that it'll rust with time.
Amazing work. I'm learning alot. I'm going to use these techniques to make a door for my Drift car. Car parts are getting expensive for my car and I'd rather get tire marks on a fiberglass door than an actual door. Thanks so much for these videos.
I been following you for a while, I have learned a trick or two from you thanks for your clips thank ,I’m like you just a guy in a shed thumbs up from me mate. Cheers . I really like your car trailer .
Mr. Mike - Great Video - Your KEVLAR process looks to be the best bet for me to make front fenders (wings) for an old '70 Fairlady which suffered from the typical lack of inner fender protect: :-( Over here we put SALT on EVERYTHING , NOT JUST CHIPS !! Cheers
If you are going to make front guards, this may help you overcome their shape. Fiberglass would be just as salt & rust proof as Kevlar, and you'd get a better surface to paint from using that process which includes Gelcoat (whereas Kevlar normally does not).
Great pointers! I'm making a set of hand laid carbon doors right now for a 2nd Gen F body. Using nomex core to stiffen the skins. Great weight savings to be had!
Wow. I'm stoked beyond comprehension. Your work, philosophy and skills are always an inspiration. More people needs to subscribe to your channel. Tons of knowledge just packed into every video. As an engineer my views have changed a lot, in the last 5 years that I've been watching your videos. Found your channel on my first semester, now I've graduated and started working. Most of your diy videos for motorsports passes all the rules stated in most racing competition. When we engineered our chassis for FSAE, I used butted tubing like bicycles in our chassis. We had the lightest chassis in our class. Used techniques shown in your how to make a serious car wing videos. But used a cnc milled foam core with carbon ribs like aeroplanes. Then flushed out the foam core with acetone. My personal take on engineering is that its always a compromise between design, manufacturing ability, material, cost and time.
Thank you for taking the time and creating your videos i hope to have a chance to try out your techniques and make my one piece hood and fenders for my audi a5 ls power twin turbo prodject multi function drag/ drift/ road course car
Bill, I love your videos. Unfortunately I am an old age pom and have real difficulty reading the captions that you post without stopping, rewinding and freezing in order to read and take in the comment
Hell yeah buddy then once they fully done give them a good smooth smooth sanding an make sure everything looks mint an fresh an paint then will def look like a real door an we'll still does
damn awesome project! im wondering if i could make doors and fit stock interior on them? would the doors hold them? also im looking to replace all windows with plastic
Most guys think they have to make large body molds very thick, and/or put giant frames on them to keep them rigid - but you don't. Normal thickness is fine, then I cut hot water rubber insulation tubing in half and lay it on as strengthening ribs that will go around any curve. The only timber framing I add is to position the molds at the best angle for layup. My advice would be start on the small panels first. Use cheap unfired pottery clay to make your flange walls on curves - and they only need to be about an inch/25mm high.
Hi Smithy. I get all my supplies from Trojan Fiberglass, who will deliver to you. They are the only fiberglass materials supplier in Oz who MAKES their own resins. I just use whatever PVA release they stock, along with Release Wax (or floor wax from a supermarket).
Great stuff, curious what those black pieces are you using for framing to give the mould strength? Looks almost like rubber hose but of course that wouldn’t stop the flex?
They are 25mm black rubber hot water pipe insulation tubes from Bunnings plumbing dept, cut in half. Overlaying them gives them rigidity, and being rubber they readily take up complex compound curves wherever needed.
I always use two products for release. Firstly a generous SINGLE coat of wax (not polished and multiple coats like everyone else tells you). This can be special release wax, or just common floor wax from a supermarket is fine. Secondly I brush on a coat of PVA release This is a product you will not get in any hardware store, but from fiberglass material suppliers (Google your area). It is water soluble and washes off.
What kind of carbon fiber, kevlar, and fiberglass are the strongest and the best suited for the automotive industry to make a light sports car with tubular chassis.
Have you ever considered replicating a quarter panel in carbon or Kevlar for maximum weight shedding? I know you made some epic fenders with flares, just can’t remember if you’ve ever replaced the entire rear panel above the wheels before. (We call them quarter panels in the states) maybe called a rear wing, or even a rear guard elsewhere?
Yes I did consider completely replacing the rear quarter panels on my Civic Muscle Hatch when building it, but the degree of weight saving versus structural integrity and the effort involved in going that far didn't seem to make it worthwhile in my case. The metal car manufacturers use for rear quarter panels is mega thin. The inner stuff is where it is thicker and heavier - but that is the structural bits. But every situation and type of car racing is different.
I look at your excellent videos from Colombia I do not understand your language but still it seems interesting to me through the translator I write this message in English I would like to know what the useful materials are called. regards
Me alegra que encuentre útiles mis videos a pesar de nuestras diferencias de idioma. No me veía tratando de entender un video en español sobre trabajos complicados en la fabricación de fibra de vidrio. No estoy seguro de lo que quiere decir con "cuáles son los materiales útiles". ¿Te refieres a "Qué materiales se utilizan"? Si es así, esa sería una lista larga, pero todos están sembrados y enumerados en mi primer video de bricolaje de fibra de vidrio en este canal, que encontrará en las "Listas de reproducción" de este canal en "Fibra de vidrio". Ese video te dará una lista en inglés, pero podrás escribirlos todos y traducirlos. Su mejor ayuda provendría de buscar en Google "proveedores de material de fibra de vidrio" en su área, lo que podría llevarlo a alguien en la industria que pueda explicarle todos los productos químicos utilizados.
What kind of resin was used for the casting and what kind of resin was used for the door. I know gelcoat was used just not sure what kind of resin to use on the fiberglass mat
Any general purpose poly resin will do. I use LSE (Low Styrene Emissions) because it's cheaper than Vinylester and way less fumy. As you appear to be new at this, I suggest you watch my first fiberglass tutorial which covers all the basics in detail. th-cam.com/video/iOZkwrfpit8/w-d-xo.html
@@BillsBuildandRace Thank you, my last comment disappeared somehow but you also mentioned 250gm and 450gm. I can get chopped strand mat in 0.045" and continuous in 0.060" will that work? Watching the video you recommended now! Thanks again
Each cell is individual when foam forms, so it is impervious to water. Closed-cell expanding foam is completely resistant to water, and will repel liquids at all times.
Just wondering, do you think there would be significant weight savings by just using a CF outer panel? As in, keep the steel inner door/beam, cut the steel outer out, and mould the steel inner into the CF outer?
Probably the heaviest components in a factory door are the glass, locks & winder mechanism. The steel frame is likely heavier than the door skin in almost every case, so just re-skinning the door with CF would lighten it - but it would hardly be worth the effort IMHO.
@@BillsBuildandRace The inside of the door is full of foam. Right? This whole thing has my mind buzzing. I’m building a drag car. I’m going to do both doors.
@@scottycollins131 Stop stressing out. it's super easy! i did show somewhere in this build what I did - but even I can't find the footage on it. But here is what you do. Yes the door is full of foam. So then you cut a side pocket on the inside of the doors near the lock so you can slide it sideways into place to be bolted up using the factory mounting points. That gives you a hole to carve a hole for the outside latches up to the window lower sill. The inside latches are mounted onto a wooden plate glued to the inside of the outer door skin - this job being done BEFORE the doors are filled with foam. You drill a hole in the inner door skin catch recess for the rod that goes to it from the door lock. From the hole hollowed out from the door lock you just push a piece of sharpened 20mm electrical conduit up to where the rod to the inner door catch comes out, using it like a saw with a twisting motion to hollow out a tunnel for that rod. The conduit does not stay in the door - it's just used as a hollowing out tool. OK?
Sorry - I didn't use a timber block to hold the inner door catch. What I did was fitted the catch to the inner skin before I joined the two door halves together. Then I epoxied the bolt heads to the back of the inner door skin. After that set, I removed the bolts & the catch, & then joined the two door skins together with the foam. I showed this in this video at 10:11 sec.
@@BillsBuildandRace I've been brainstorming. Worse comes to worst I can create a tunnel for the rod that goes from the door handle to the latch. I'm building a 2000 Mustang. American version. It has a frameless window. I think it will be even easier than the Honda. And the weight savings will be much greater.
There's very little lightening you can do with a daily driver as you have to 1) KNOW all the road rules where you are that cars have to meet 2) also know what you are allowed to modify and not modify (which is usually almost nothing).
@@da6jdmgarage595 Unfortunately international shipping makes the cost prohibitive, plus I haven't molded a pair of DC2 doors nor do I have a pair to copy.
i finished making a door! what I did not think through was the added thickness when combining the two panels. makes it so I cannot use door seals or it will push the door further out. and thats with only 2 layers 3/4oz (similar to 225gsm) mat on rear skin and front skin (with added one layer carbon)
You are an absolute master. Thank you for putting all the effort into making these videos!
Thank you Uncle... I just love watching you work... Please stay healthy and keep on educating us... Many thanks and God bless you
You sir, are my hero! I would love to spend a week down under practicing similar work! Currently working on a Ferrari 360 and scratching my head how to do multi part molds for doors, fenders & bumpers. Excellent skills!
Awesome work!! By far the best series of videos on DIY fiberglass/Kevlar/carbon fiber doors I’ve found
Mate, you are a legend and a role model to every person in the car community , especially any aspiring race car driver.
I can't explain how impressed I Am with Your work and way you talk like much more younger youtubers. 😍 I'm impressed
Hey, still enjoying your videos. I was just curios when I started to watch your videos and I could not find the front clip videos where you used the green gealcoat. But I found the: „How to make Fiberglas split molds.“ and I got my answer. It is now 8 years. Thank you for your videos and stay safe.
Best wishes from Berlin.
PS: 8 years. It’s ca. 2/3 of my life haha
Sir Your videos are mesmerizing. So much of unique knowledge and how to, it's priceless. Thank You for making them. I was repairing fiber and plastic car body pieces in the past but always thought that I need vacuum table to made my own big parts. Thanks to You I'm convinced now to make some body parts for my current project car from fiberglass and don't worry anymore that it'll rust with time.
And then he hits it with a sledgehammer! Keep up the good work Bill.. learning allot and its always a pleasure
Amazing work.
I'm learning alot. I'm going to use these techniques to make a door for my Drift car. Car parts are getting expensive for my car and I'd rather get tire marks on a fiberglass door than an actual door.
Thanks so much for these videos.
I been following you for a while, I have learned a trick or two from you thanks for your clips thank ,I’m like you just a guy in a shed thumbs up from me mate.
Cheers .
I really like your car trailer .
Another great episode with heaps of tips and tricks to get it done👍🏼
Much obliged 👍 for the Amazing work and Builds guys 😎🤙🥃
Mr. Mike - Great Video - Your KEVLAR process looks to be the best bet for me to make front fenders (wings) for an old '70 Fairlady which suffered from the typical lack of inner fender protect: :-( Over here we put SALT on EVERYTHING , NOT JUST CHIPS !!
Cheers
If you are going to make front guards, this may help you overcome their shape. Fiberglass would be just as salt & rust proof as Kevlar, and you'd get a better surface to paint from using that process which includes Gelcoat (whereas Kevlar normally does not).
I wish I could have you make me some 1985 s10 doors and tilting front clip
My friend you are amazing .
Wish I was there to help you and learn from you
Thank you for the video. Watching in the UK, best regards.
This channel is gold
I wish I could leave more than just one like, excellent information. Definitely subscribed to this channel 🙌
Another top video, adding all of the lightness.
Love your channel learnt a lot. Used some Kevlar recently and now I am hooked!!!
Mate this will be awosme for my allwheel drive turbo astra build
Excellent Bill .. You were a master.
Great pointers! I'm making a set of hand laid carbon doors right now for a 2nd Gen F body. Using nomex core to stiffen the skins. Great weight savings to be had!
Looks like a winner.
Any tips on how to retain all the inner door stuff to keep electric windows and door cards? Love the videos mate. Can’t get enough of them.
Some of the best skills I have ever seen
Thanks uncle Bill!
Wow. I'm stoked beyond comprehension. Your work, philosophy and skills are always an inspiration. More people needs to subscribe to your channel. Tons of knowledge just packed into every video. As an engineer my views have changed a lot, in the last 5 years that I've been watching your videos. Found your channel on my first semester, now I've graduated and started working. Most of your diy videos for motorsports passes all the rules stated in most racing competition. When we engineered our chassis for FSAE, I used butted tubing like bicycles in our chassis. We had the lightest chassis in our class. Used techniques shown in your how to make a serious car wing videos. But used a cnc milled foam core with carbon ribs like aeroplanes. Then flushed out the foam core with acetone. My personal take on engineering is that its always a compromise between design, manufacturing ability, material, cost and time.
Good video ** interesting explanations **
I love this man. Wish we were neighbors
I appriciate all your videos thank you
Awesome video, thanks for sharing all your wisdom... I’m a new subscriber!
Thank you for taking the time and creating your videos i hope to have a chance to try out your techniques and make my one piece hood and fenders for my audi a5 ls power twin turbo prodject multi function drag/ drift/ road course car
Bill, I love your videos. Unfortunately I am an old age pom and have real difficulty reading the captions that you post without stopping, rewinding and freezing in order to read and take in the comment
Hell yeah buddy then once they fully done give them a good smooth smooth sanding an make sure everything looks mint an fresh an paint then will def look like a real door an we'll still does
What weight carbon fibre do you use on the carbon door? You've inspired me to make my own bonnet, now wanting to make the doors!
I used three layers of 225gm.
damn awesome project! im wondering if i could make doors and fit stock interior on them? would the doors hold them? also im looking to replace all windows with plastic
See my guide to race car windows
I am following your work, I am going to try to do a complete Volkswagen 1958 Van
Most guys think they have to make large body molds very thick, and/or put giant frames on them to keep them rigid - but you don't. Normal thickness is fine, then I cut hot water rubber insulation tubing in half and lay it on as strengthening ribs that will go around any curve. The only timber framing I add is to position the molds at the best angle for layup. My advice would be start on the small panels first. Use cheap unfired pottery clay to make your flange walls on curves - and they only need to be about an inch/25mm high.
Love your work!
Can I ask what your preferred release agent would be?
Hi Smithy. I get all my supplies from Trojan Fiberglass, who will deliver to you. They are the only fiberglass materials supplier in Oz who MAKES their own resins. I just use whatever PVA release they stock, along with Release Wax (or floor wax from a supermarket).
@@BillsBuildandRace
Thanks for getting back to me Bill... I appreciate it.
Cheers
Great videos. Thanks.
I’m always amazed at your work
Great stuff, curious what those black pieces are you using for framing to give the mould strength? Looks almost like rubber hose but of course that wouldn’t stop the flex?
They are 25mm black rubber hot water pipe insulation tubes from Bunnings plumbing dept, cut in half. Overlaying them gives them rigidity, and being rubber they readily take up complex compound curves wherever needed.
@@BillsBuildandRace wow I didn’t realise they’d provide enough rigidity, thanks 👍
Hi there just a question regarding release agent? What did you use when taking the mould and then making the product from the mould? Cheers
I always use two products for release. Firstly a generous SINGLE coat of wax (not polished and multiple coats like everyone else tells you). This can be special release wax, or just common floor wax from a supermarket is fine. Secondly I brush on a coat of PVA release This is a product you will not get in any hardware store, but from fiberglass material suppliers (Google your area). It is water soluble and washes off.
What kind of carbon fiber, kevlar, and fiberglass are the strongest and the best suited for the automotive industry to make a light sports car with tubular chassis.
What a legend.
Have you ever considered replicating a quarter panel in carbon or Kevlar for maximum weight shedding? I know you made some epic fenders with flares, just can’t remember if you’ve ever replaced the entire rear panel above the wheels before. (We call them quarter panels in the states) maybe called a rear wing, or even a rear guard elsewhere?
Yes I did consider completely replacing the rear quarter panels on my Civic Muscle Hatch when building it, but the degree of weight saving versus structural integrity and the effort involved in going that far didn't seem to make it worthwhile in my case. The metal car manufacturers use for rear quarter panels is mega thin. The inner stuff is where it is thicker and heavier - but that is the structural bits. But every situation and type of car racing is different.
Your amazing keep it up sir 👍😉
Very pleasant sound that sledgehammer made 😏
Holy crap that's strong 💪!
Yes I agree 100%
I look at your excellent videos from Colombia I do not understand your language but still it seems interesting to me through the translator I write this message in English I would like to know what the useful materials are called. regards
Me alegra que encuentre útiles mis videos a pesar de nuestras diferencias de idioma. No me veía tratando de entender un video en español sobre trabajos complicados en la fabricación de fibra de vidrio. No estoy seguro de lo que quiere decir con "cuáles son los materiales útiles". ¿Te refieres a "Qué materiales se utilizan"? Si es así, esa sería una lista larga, pero todos están sembrados y enumerados en mi primer video de bricolaje de fibra de vidrio en este canal, que encontrará en las "Listas de reproducción" de este canal en "Fibra de vidrio". Ese video te dará una lista en inglés, pero podrás escribirlos todos y traducirlos. Su mejor ayuda provendría de buscar en Google "proveedores de material de fibra de vidrio" en su área, lo que podría llevarlo a alguien en la industria que pueda explicarle todos los productos químicos utilizados.
Muchas gracias 🤗 son buenísimos tus videos.
Very cool and thank you
True inspirational
What kind of resin was used for the casting and what kind of resin was used for the door. I know gelcoat was used just not sure what kind of resin to use on the fiberglass mat
Any general purpose poly resin will do. I use LSE (Low Styrene Emissions) because it's cheaper than Vinylester and way less fumy. As you appear to be new at this, I suggest you watch my first fiberglass tutorial which covers all the basics in detail. th-cam.com/video/iOZkwrfpit8/w-d-xo.html
@@BillsBuildandRace Thank you, my last comment disappeared somehow but you also mentioned 250gm and 450gm. I can get chopped strand mat in 0.045" and continuous in 0.060" will that work? Watching the video you recommended now! Thanks again
@@Tookoff Where are you? The Imperials equivalent of 22gm & 450gm csm is 8 & 16oz - as it is sold in the USA.
@@BillsBuildandRace everything I've searched in the US say either 1.5 oz/sq ft or 2 oz/sq ft.
@@BillsBuildandRace I have also found 0.9 oz and 3/4 oz
So does the door latch on like factory or will it need extra latches due to being really lightweight?
The standard latches work fine.
Does the foam also seal the lower door sills against water? Or do you run into an issue where you could have standing water inside over time?
Each cell is individual when foam forms, so it is impervious to water. Closed-cell expanding foam is completely resistant to water, and will repel liquids at all times.
@@BillsBuildandRace Thank you for the information and response. I appreciate it very much.
Do you sell door moldings ?
Where are you?
Just wondering, do you think there would be significant weight savings by just using a CF outer panel? As in, keep the steel inner door/beam, cut the steel outer out, and mould the steel inner into the CF outer?
Probably the heaviest components in a factory door are the glass, locks & winder mechanism. The steel frame is likely heavier than the door skin in almost every case, so just re-skinning the door with CF would lighten it - but it would hardly be worth the effort IMHO.
Does this work the same if everything was fiberglass?
Yes.
@@BillsBuildandRace Awesome
Did you weigh before and after filling with foam?
No - but the foam weighs 4 kg, in the cans and does not lose weight, so that is easily calculated.
How is your door latch mechanism going to work?
What do you mean?
@@BillsBuildandRace The inside of the door is full of foam. Right? This whole thing has my mind buzzing. I’m building a drag car. I’m going to do both doors.
@@scottycollins131 Stop stressing out. it's super easy! i did show somewhere in this build what I did - but even I can't find the footage on it. But here is what you do. Yes the door is full of foam. So then you cut a side pocket on the inside of the doors near the lock so you can slide it sideways into place to be bolted up using the factory mounting points. That gives you a hole to carve a hole for the outside latches up to the window lower sill. The inside latches are mounted onto a wooden plate glued to the inside of the outer door skin - this job being done BEFORE the doors are filled with foam. You drill a hole in the inner door skin catch recess for the rod that goes to it from the door lock. From the hole hollowed out from the door lock you just push a piece of sharpened 20mm electrical conduit up to where the rod to the inner door catch comes out, using it like a saw with a twisting motion to hollow out a tunnel for that rod. The conduit does not stay in the door - it's just used as a hollowing out tool. OK?
Sorry - I didn't use a timber block to hold the inner door catch. What I did was fitted the catch to the inner skin before I joined the two door halves together. Then I epoxied the bolt heads to the back of the inner door skin. After that set, I removed the bolts & the catch, & then joined the two door skins together with the foam. I showed this in this video at 10:11 sec.
@@BillsBuildandRace I've been brainstorming. Worse comes to worst I can create a tunnel for the rod that goes from the door handle to the latch. I'm building a 2000 Mustang. American version. It has a frameless window. I think it will be even easier than the Honda. And the weight savings will be much greater.
Where are you buying your carbon fiber Kevlar etc..
Where are you?
"Not state of the art"
> Beats door with a sledge hammer and it comes out without a single blemish.
Yeah thanks 😎😏
My car weighs a little over 4100 pounds. What do you suggest I do to lighten the car and maintain its use as an everyday driver?
There's very little lightening you can do with a daily driver as you have to 1) KNOW all the road rules where you are that cars have to meet 2) also know what you are allowed to modify and not modify (which is usually almost nothing).
I need doors for a Honda CRX made ! Can you do that I’m in Florida
I don't have factory CRX doors to copy, plus international freight also makes this financially not possible.
Your awesome👌👌
Thku
How much for a pr of doors mate 1990 integra 2dr
Where are you?
@@BillsBuildandRace gidday bill I'm in New Zealand.
@@da6jdmgarage595 Unfortunately international shipping makes the cost prohibitive, plus I haven't molded a pair of DC2 doors nor do I have a pair to copy.
Fantástic thank you!
I love you bro
молодец мужик!!!
Спасибо дружище
Door skins flimsy. W glass door jam its complete! U is tite
Kevlar 2 wow
Foamy strenghth!
i finished making a door! what I did not think through was the added thickness when combining the two panels. makes it so I cannot use door seals or it will push the door further out. and thats with only 2 layers 3/4oz (similar to 225gsm) mat on rear skin and front skin (with added one layer carbon)