Just wanted to say I've been a fan for the years you have been doing this and will be applying the knowledge you have shared to do a lot of this to my FD3S RX7 Project car! Cannot thank you enough there are so many other guys out there that don't want to share it.
Over the years ive seen lot of raci g channels and car diy channels but this dude is the only one ive came across that actually make the entire process look easy and simple
Dude you're saving my @$$ and my wallet. They don't make cf doors for the Hyundai Genesis coupe anymore and certainly not for the last model year of the 2.0t which was famously unpopular here in the states. I'm making these for use in Mexico one day. I'm aiming for 3000 lbs
You should get a website and sell items you use on there I bet you could make some good $ off it by just putting a link in your description. You could also sell parts that you’ve made that way.
So is this epoxy? I might have missed what is being used, but the pot life seems to be quite long. I suffer from forever weak and sticky resin molds because they either cook off too quickly or never cure.
Yes - this is epoxy resin in use. With polyester resins used with fiberglass the set up speed is controlled by the percentage of catalyst you mix in - from 1 - 2%. However with epoxy resin the setup speed is determined by the B part of the mix. The names and speed variations differ from brand to brand, but the most common options are 10, 20 and 30 minute worklife. Many brands offer no speed options at all - they just have a part A & a part B, and you cannot vary the worklife speed by mixing in more or less of the part B, because with epoxy resin the product ratios are set. But the locally made (Oz) brand I use is called "500". That's the part A. They offer part B as 510, 20, and 30 - each one offering those different worklife speeds. So I always use 530 - which is also the clearest. Temperature will affect how fast your epoxy resin goes off too. If you are living in a warm or hot climate, switch to laying up only on cool, wet days, or in the first hours of daylight, or at night. So your difficulties are either most likely being caused by the climate where you are, or the particular brand of epoxy that you have been using. So - what brand of epoxy have you been using?
@@BillsBuildandRace Thanks for the great answer, Bill! I am in the Southwest US, so we are currently in Summer and hot and dry. I have been working small projects to learn how to layup a mold and hand-lay fiberglass. I've used both the polyester resin that comes with off-the-shelf fiberglass kits in the US and two-part epoxy purchased from Amazon. The resin is much cheaper and easier to source, however the challenge comes in mixing amounts and ratios for an effective workflow. My only success with the resin comes when I mix small batches, wasting materials. I see your large jug and the speed at which you can work so I might have to accept the cost trade off and go with epoxy. Thinking of using Total Boat brand.
@@whosestone I reckon your problem really is that you don't have a good supplier where you can buy polyester resin at reasonable prices. Epoxy resin is ALWAYS more expensive than polyester resin, so if you are buying epoxy cheaper than polyester you are getting ripped off on the latter. Google search "fiberglass materials supplier....in your area" to find a trade supplier. Yes (despite industry hysteria) you CAN use epoxy with fiberglass, but chopped strand mat has an element in it that breaks down to polyester resin, so your jobs will actually be weaker if you use epoxy with chopped fiberglass cloth. Once you find a trade supplier many other great products are at hand, often along with good advice (although many counter jockeys with NO actual laying up experience will pretend to know more than you do). I always buy polyester resin in bulk to save money, paying US$135 for a 20 litre pail, and $5 for catalyst. Buying any composite product off the internet you will ALWAYS get ripped off. It's easy - you just tap that "buy" button" - but you pay for that apparent convenience.
CSM conforms really well to compound curves, whereas woven cloth does not. On the outer door skins i used csm because I was only making molds, and I have that in stock in rolls, and the extra strength of woven cloth was not needed it my molds. I ensure that with proven thicknesses and those over laid rubber strips. You don't have to make molds as thick as is commonly believed - it's more a matter of making them so they hold their shape, and those over laid ribs do that much better.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I've been trying to figure out how to make some fiberglass spoiler/wing stands. It's a simple enough shape but i can't figure out how to make them. Given that they are essentially hollow pieces and need to bolt to the wing on one end and the deck lid on the other I'm at a loss. I've spent many hours scouring the internet trying to find something similar i could adapt the technique from but have come up empty. I'd love to see any tips that might help me.
I went a different route, shaping a plate out of tin for each side. Then I cut a piece of 25mm electrical conduit in half & put it down the middle. That gave me a die on which to hand lay them in CF. If you want a hollow post you sculpt the shape you want, then make a two piece split flanged mold of each side. Then make the two halves & trim to the flanges leaving them in their molds. Then you bolt the two dies with the 2 layups together & pour in expanding foam to lock the two halves together. Same technique as e making this wing: th-cam.com/video/laR2C55b8AA/w-d-xo.html If you want other ways of making a flange for a split mold you will find that in my playlist of fiberglass tutorials.
@@BillsBuildandRace I never thought about using the foam to press the fiberglass into the mold. I've also been worried about the mount bolt holes being along the seem of a split mold. I was thinking of using a piece of aluminium to reinforce the mounting sections. These wing stands won't be used for racing. I'm trying to make parts to fit the look a friend wants for his car. Thank you so much for the reply, it definitely has given me something to try.
You all have the same disease - you don't shoot the video to the end. What happened in the end? Two pieces of plastic? What then? Thrown out in the trash or put on a car? Why should the audience guess for themselves what the doors look like when they are dressed on a car?
The making of those doors were just part of a ground up race car build, and the people who watched that series saw things progress. Both doors are shown being painted & fitted here: th-cam.com/video/4k_vGeNEgHY/w-d-xo.html and the completely finished car is shown here from start to finish th-cam.com/video/xdTBsz9yL1Q/w-d-xo.html
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
It's sharing knowledge like this that makes racing possible for us low budget backyarders. Can't thank you enough for all the valuable lessons.
This has been the most helpful composites channel I've ever seen! Thank you for sharing your knowledge and tricks!
It’s funny because I was using your channel as a guide too. How is your RWB MG coming out?
Just wanted to say I've been a fan for the years you have been doing this and will be applying the knowledge you have shared to do a lot of this to my FD3S RX7 Project car! Cannot thank you enough there are so many other guys out there that don't want to share it.
Over the years ive seen lot of raci g channels and car diy channels but this dude is the only one ive came across that actually make the entire process look easy and simple
I love the fact that you still race your cars ... you're a legend, man. Loving your tutorials.
You are the best person to take advice from when doing this kind of job!
All your videos deserve praise and benefit 👏👍👍👏
Dude you're saving my @$$ and my wallet. They don't make cf doors for the Hyundai Genesis coupe anymore and certainly not for the last model year of the 2.0t which was famously unpopular here in the states. I'm making these for use in Mexico one day. I'm aiming for 3000 lbs
good to see you making videos again mate. thanks for sharing
I have no job I want to learn this what your doing sir I love this kind of job. Thanks for inspiring me sir
Thanks for sharing all your knowledge!
LOVE LOVE THIS VIDEO! From one do it your self-er to another, thank you!
You should get a website and sell items you use on there I bet you could make some good $ off it by just putting a link in your description. You could also sell parts that you’ve made that way.
This man is a beast. An innovator that gives inspiration and help to all car customizing enthusiasts.
Hello mate, thanks for sharing your knowledge.much appreciated👍👍👍👍 i want to apologise for being a pommy barstard. All the best mate 👍👍👍👍👍
This guy is the king
Thanks for the really practical tips
So is this epoxy? I might have missed what is being used, but the pot life seems to be quite long. I suffer from forever weak and sticky resin molds because they either cook off too quickly or never cure.
Yes - this is epoxy resin in use. With polyester resins used with fiberglass the set up speed is controlled by the percentage of catalyst you mix in - from 1 - 2%. However with epoxy resin the setup speed is determined by the B part of the mix. The names and speed variations differ from brand to brand, but the most common options are 10, 20 and 30 minute worklife. Many brands offer no speed options at all - they just have a part A & a part B, and you cannot vary the worklife speed by mixing in more or less of the part B, because with epoxy resin the product ratios are set. But the locally made (Oz) brand I use is called "500". That's the part A. They offer part B as 510, 20, and 30 - each one offering those different worklife speeds. So I always use 530 - which is also the clearest. Temperature will affect how fast your epoxy resin goes off too. If you are living in a warm or hot climate, switch to laying up only on cool, wet days, or in the first hours of daylight, or at night. So your difficulties are either most likely being caused by the climate where you are, or the particular brand of epoxy that you have been using. So - what brand of epoxy have you been using?
@@BillsBuildandRace Thanks for the great answer, Bill! I am in the Southwest US, so we are currently in Summer and hot and dry. I have been working small projects to learn how to layup a mold and hand-lay fiberglass. I've used both the polyester resin that comes with off-the-shelf fiberglass kits in the US and two-part epoxy purchased from Amazon. The resin is much cheaper and easier to source, however the challenge comes in mixing amounts and ratios for an effective workflow. My only success with the resin comes when I mix small batches, wasting materials. I see your large jug and the speed at which you can work so I might have to accept the cost trade off and go with epoxy. Thinking of using Total Boat brand.
@@whosestone I reckon your problem really is that you don't have a good supplier where you can buy polyester resin at reasonable prices. Epoxy resin is ALWAYS more expensive than polyester resin, so if you are buying epoxy cheaper than polyester you are getting ripped off on the latter. Google search "fiberglass materials supplier....in your area" to find a trade supplier. Yes (despite industry hysteria) you CAN use epoxy with fiberglass, but chopped strand mat has an element in it that breaks down to polyester resin, so your jobs will actually be weaker if you use epoxy with chopped fiberglass cloth. Once you find a trade supplier many other great products are at hand, often along with good advice (although many counter jockeys with NO actual laying up experience will pretend to know more than you do). I always buy polyester resin in bulk to save money, paying US$135 for a 20 litre pail, and $5 for catalyst. Buying any composite product off the internet you will ALWAYS get ripped off. It's easy - you just tap that "buy" button" - but you pay for that apparent convenience.
Wonderful work. A polite question: cloth is much stronger than mat. So why did you use chopped mat?
CSM conforms really well to compound curves, whereas woven cloth does not. On the outer door skins i used csm because I was only making molds, and I have that in stock in rolls, and the extra strength of woven cloth was not needed it my molds. I ensure that with proven thicknesses and those over laid rubber strips. You don't have to make molds as thick as is commonly believed - it's more a matter of making them so they hold their shape, and those over laid ribs do that much better.
You make it appear so easy!! I'll be doing my second attempt at my hood this weekend!
Keep the tutorials coming!
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience. I've been trying to figure out how to make some fiberglass spoiler/wing stands. It's a simple enough shape but i can't figure out how to make them. Given that they are essentially hollow pieces and need to bolt to the wing on one end and the deck lid on the other I'm at a loss. I've spent many hours scouring the internet trying to find something similar i could adapt the technique from but have come up empty. I'd love to see any tips that might help me.
I went a different route, shaping a plate out of tin for each side. Then I cut a piece of 25mm electrical conduit in half & put it down the middle. That gave me a die on which to hand lay them in CF. If you want a hollow post you sculpt the shape you want, then make a two piece split flanged mold of each side. Then make the two halves & trim to the flanges leaving them in their molds. Then you bolt the two dies with the 2 layups together & pour in expanding foam to lock the two halves together. Same technique as e making this wing: th-cam.com/video/laR2C55b8AA/w-d-xo.html If you want other ways of making a flange for a split mold you will find that in my playlist of fiberglass tutorials.
@@BillsBuildandRace I never thought about using the foam to press the fiberglass into the mold. I've also been worried about the mount bolt holes being along the seem of a split mold. I was thinking of using a piece of aluminium to reinforce the mounting sections. These wing stands won't be used for racing. I'm trying to make parts to fit the look a friend wants for his car. Thank you so much for the reply, it definitely has given me something to try.
Glass fiber master!
Did you still use wax and PVA blue before the gel coat went on the door?
"Masterclass for the experienced", so basic steps are not shown, like wax & PVA release, otherwise I'd never get to the tricky stuff.
Great video but the music is a little bit much. Just a little bit too loud
What did you use for the framing?
25mm hot water rubber insulation tubing from Bunnings, cut in half.
God bless you
"It's time to add some lightness." - WJP004
You inspired me to work on my car body. Thank you. I made front fiberglass bumper for my Civic ED 4 gen. So sad, you are far far away.
Why fiberglass first? Why not go straight to cf?
Fibreglass givss a decent decrease in weight already, but its not as expensive as cf. Good bang for buck option
0:25 memeable clip
Great video!
Bravo!
Great! 🇵🇱
Was the name of orange stuff u using
It's just Neutral brushable Gelcoat with orange tinter added to colour it
You all have the same disease - you don't shoot the video to the end. What happened in the end? Two pieces of plastic? What then? Thrown out in the trash or put on a car?
Why should the audience guess for themselves what the doors look like when they are dressed on a car?
The making of those doors were just part of a ground up race car build, and the people who watched that series saw things progress. Both doors are shown being painted & fitted here: th-cam.com/video/4k_vGeNEgHY/w-d-xo.html and the completely finished car is shown here from start to finish th-cam.com/video/xdTBsz9yL1Q/w-d-xo.html