3 year old video but still helping people to this day! Now I'm using mine for powdercoat oven controll but I figured it would work in same settings that you showed. So far so good. I appreciate it!
George, thank you for clearing up a couple issues I'm having in settings. I've got to say; I have watched most of your videos and I have never viewed a you tube instructional video as detailed and helpful as yours. Thanks George
I'm building a powder coating oven and this guide has immensely help me understand the settings. Thank you so much. My low limit was set high for some reason and I wasn't able to get the temperature that I needed. I was able to set it quickly just by watching this video. Thank you so much. It is greatly appreciated.
im building a pid smoker controller , and watching your videos are the best out here on youtube for understanding how this thing works , you must be a local votech teacher , great job man , 2 thumbs up
SMOKING MEAT AND DIY BY DANIEL do you have yours set to “heat” or “cool”? Obviously you’re heating the unit, but the PID I’m replacing needed the blower to be set to cool
Thank you George for helping me to hook up my PID controller to my screen printing conveyor dryer. I cant tell you how much I appreciate you help! You are wonderful and God sent! I will be gettting back with you as soon as I get the temp probe
Sedrick. I saw your test. As I feared, looks like you shorted out the probe circuit when it sparked. I think you need a new PID. We'll get this running right so don't worry.
Thank you George for explaining the My pin parameters I would never have been able to make head or tail of those instructions keep making your videos sitting mine up for a barbecue to hold a temperature of 250 f
Thanks a ton George.....your videos hands down have helped me and others more than you will ever know. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do these very educational and helpful videos. Thank you.
George, I don't know much about PIDs but what I do came from you! Thank you so much. I have a TA4-SSR that I am setting up for an electric smoker. To test it, I have the 110vac hot going to PID pin 1 and neutral 110vac to PID pin 2. A jumper goes from PID (hot) pin 2 to SSD pin 2 and SSD pin 1 goes to the hot side of a 110vac fan, serving as the load. The neutral fan lead goes to PID pin 2. Then, SSR 4(neg) goes to PID 3(neg) while SSR3 (pos) connects to PID 4 (pos) The K probe connects to PID 7 (neg) and PID 8(pos). In normal operation mode the PV is 85 and the SV is 86. When PV reaches 86, the SSR input lite flashes on/off . On the PID, the output flashes on/off and the AL1 is lit. However, the load (fan) does NOT come on! I feel I am close but my brain is so twisted I cannot see my error for the life of me! I hope you can find time to educate me further. Anxious!
Do not, do not run the neutral to pin #2. Use the SSR as you would a switch. Hot wire to pin #1. Neutral wire to the fan. Run a separate hot sire from pin #1 to the fan. When the PID engages it will complete the circuit to the fan and it will come on. Your K probe is correct.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing George, please, please forgive me for being so dense. Is this what you mean? PID #1 (hot) and #2 (neutral) are the mains supply. PID #1 connects to SSR #2. SSR #1 goes to the hot side of the fan. The neutral side of the fan goes to PID #2 completing the fan circuit (when the SSR is turned on by the K probe). Of course, as you have made very clear in prior posts, other elements of the circuit are a switch, receptacle, fuse(s), panel lights, cooling fan and an ac amp meter which I especially like! If I am getting closer to understanding all this I am very happy. The eureka moment for me was your statement to use the SSR as a switch--as simple as that! You are truly the best! Now to see if it will float! Denny
Oops! That one doesn't work! I re-checked and found an error. PID #1 goes to SSR #1 (not SSR #2 !!!)and a jumper goes from SSR #1 to the hot side of the fan. So, if I connect the cold side of the fan to SSR #2 it still doesn't work. I'm having trouble getting the fan to neutral--your instructions said do not connect neutral to pin 2, which I assume to mean PID #2. Do I misunderstand your advice? Alternatively, seems to me it would work if I went from PID 1 to SSR 1 and the SSR 2 to one side of the fan, and connect the other fan side to PID #2......?
OK, success finally! I simply connected the fan in series between SSR #2 and PID #2, as in the alternative I stated in my last sentence above. Thanks for your patience and help! Now I can start cutting holes in the box.
George, You da Man!!! I have learned so much watching your videos, THANK-YOU! Thanks for a great video on the MyPin settings. I have the TA6 and, as you said, the settings are the same procedure. Somehow, I got my settings off (didn't hit the final set button?) and went thru the procedure again. All good. Using the PID is of tremendous value. What really sold me on it was a video made by a large commercial brewery. Their control board had multiple MyPin PIDs to control their entire brewing process.
Great video, thank you for posting it. ----- One comment on Auto Tuning that others might find helpful. If your going to auto-tune your PID settings make sure to first set the temperature to a value you expect to be using regularly, click and hold the "AT" button, and most importantly WAIT till the AT light turns off. Otherwise you will not have completed a full auto tune cycle and the parameters will likely be incorrect (most likely an under estimate). Thanks again for the concise video, I couldn't make heads or tails of the horrible so called manual I found online.
Please explain auto tune in more detail if you can. I have built two PID controllers (after studying your videos) a main and back up with fans and thermostats to control them. BTW One lesson I learned was not to use an AC voltage fan as it induces electrical noise into the PID and causes the PV to fluctuate out of control. Thanks for all the valuable information you have published and thank you for the personal help you have provided via phone conversation in the past. You are greatly appreciated!
The auto tune function will fine tune your P,I and D settings for you and will match them to your process. These will be the best settings based on how your still runs and it does it by itself. Just let it run through a self tune cycle while you are distilling (when the light goes out it is done). You can check your settings after that to see where they are for your still.
great refresher...now I'm using it to control my laser's water chiller! What a handy little gadget. I built your controller with the SS relay etc. Works great.
Thanks for the help, I set this up to manage a HLT in my brewhouse while I am at home asleep so that I have my water ready to go right on time in the morning.
This is a really great video! I wonder how many hours of playing with this thing it took to learn all of that? You saved everybody at least that many hours and probably some burnt out equipment!
1. Hold set key for about 5 secs 2. AL set to 300 3. A01 set to 2 4. AL2 set to 450 5. A02 set to 2 6. PUF is the offset to adjust (used if temp is off of calibration) 7. INP K type (looks like a backward Y) 8. P set to 1 9. I (looks like 1) set to 540 10. D set to 200 11. Heat 12. Hys set to 1 13. Cel set to 001 14. C - F set to F 15. LCY set to 000 16. Hold set
Thank your sir George I hope this works for me and I think it will, yes I would have never got there, and that’s why I put it in a box and need this video really bad, if u run for President you got my vote and and the whole gang lol 😂Thanks again u are the greatest 🙏
Charlie, you are so gracious. Thanks for the comment. I hope this helps you achieve the success you deserve. If you have any issues with the PID let me know. If necessary I can pre-set one here and switch with you. I'll ship one to you and you can ship yours back to me. Geogre
Great video thank you. You got your I and D mixed up when stating that with PI it would never actually reach temperature. The integral is what makes sure it gets there because it multiplies by the sum of error. The derivative essentially just acts as a damping factor to control overshoot.
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your videos. They are the best I have found for building a pid controller. I have a problem with one I just built that I can't solve. When it reaches the set temp, the power doesn't shut off.
Alan, Does the light on the SSR stay on after it reaches the set temp? It is more likely your still has not balanced yet and the residual heat while the element was on is just making it to the probe area. The balancing takes about 15 minutes or so at a lower temperature (~ 130-140F). Let me know what happens or if the light stays on.
Great series of videos. I built a version of your device but your recommended settings do not work for my 5 gallon kettle and 110 volt hot plate, and the Auto Tuning feature of the Inkbird does not work well either. It is helpful to understand that PID is really three control mechanisms. The Proportional setting can work by itself but it will always achieve a steady state temperature below the set point and takes a long time to stabilize. If you add in the Integral setting you can achieve an actual temperature equal to the set temperature. The Differential setting is there to look at the rate of change of the temperature and predict based on the rate of change whether to increase the power or decrease it. Add all three together and you get a rapid increase of temperature to begin, with a more gradual increase as you get closer to the set temperature to prevent the temperature over-running the set temperature. However, if you set any of the P, I, or D settings too high the result can be a very unstable temperature controller. Without resorting to complicated math, you can adjust the values as follows: 1. Set the I and D values to zero. 2. Set the P value to give you the desired time to reach the desired temperature quickly (say between 100 and 200). Notice that the indicated temperature will overshoot the set temperature but eventually settle in to a temperature several degrees below the set temperature. 3. Next increase the I value so that the indicated temperature settles close to the set temperature. 4. Next set the D value carefully to a value that gives you a stable temperature without big over-shoots or under-shoots. You can do the above procedure with just water in your still kettle. The mistake most hobbyists make is to jack up the values of P, I, and D too high. Don’t set the P value too high in an attempt to heat quickly. The I value should be no more than half the P value, and the D value should be even less. Setting each value separately and observing the result will give you the best performance: a rapid rise initially followed by a slow rise to the set temperature without big swings over or under the set temperature. With a little patience a PID controller can be dialed in to give you a great control over your distilling or brewing process.
how about a video more about alarms, I am thinking a audio for lower to set at about 145* and maybe set upper for 175* to let you know about close to cut stages..
I had to divert for a while from working on my controller. I have watched your videos again and they remain at the top of excellence for easy-to-understand and very concise instruction and information. I have the Mypin TA4 with SSR output operating on 110 VAC and ultimately be used for a BBQ smoker. But right now while I'm trying to get the programming set up, I am using a fan for the load, instead of a 1500 W heating element. Problem: As soon as I turn it on, the display and LEDS blink at the rate of about 30 hz/sec. Press and hold SET and must wait 30-45 sec for AL1 to come up and then it will go to A01, AL2, etc, on down the list and start over--at no point do I have a chance to interact and enter changes. I know from your videos what I want to enter and altho I am not yet adept at quickly pressing correct buttons in correct sequence I think I am quick enough. Same thing occurs when I begin by holding down both green buttons. Do you have any ideas? Of course, it may be that the controller is faulty or that my wiring is wrong. I have included a lit fan switch, a large LED that shows when the SSR is operating--yes, a redundancy I know! plus a multi-function watt meter. Also 2 AC outlets and panel-mount fuses. All of these extras seem to work fine. I should also note that the controller must have been set up to have the SSR in conducting mode as the load (fan) and signal LED both are on. Thanks so much for any help!
Once you get AL1, AO1, AL2, AL2 stop a the next parameter and then push the blue button to access its setting. After that you use the up/down arrows to set that and then press set to save and then set to go to the next parameter. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks George! Well, I followed your very simple instructions and here is part of what I found. The flickering continues and makes it next to impossible to see any changes made by pressing the blue button if I am lucky enough to get to that point, and it moves only sometimes. Often the parameter choices just starts quickly indexing to the next one. The whole display may go dead for 1 sec , then return somewhere down the list. I have no idea what I do to trigger it, but it will start flashin g gibberish (to me!) eg, cJS, CJl, Lch, CuL until I turn it off. In general, it seems to mostly ignore the set key and especially the blue key. You make it look so easy in your videos so something must be wrong with me or the PID, or maybe both! Is it possible I could have damaged it while trying to get it programmed? I just remembered that the first time I turned it on, the display momentarily dimmed for a split second and I heard a faint click-like noise. I had it fused for 2 amps and the fuse did not blow.
@@denzilcypret742 Very possible you damaged it or it is just faulty. I have only had 2 of these fail from the factory in the past 5 years. It is possible that it is just faulty. George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewingI did as you said about going thru AL1, AL2, etc, but I could not stop it from going to the next parameter automatically and it was cycling so rapidly I could not stop it with the blue button or the set. I have to say it is uncontrollable with my present knowledge. OK, so I installed another PID, brand new, out of the box, and it responds in exactly the same way! This is so ridiculous that I think it must be something on site here, maybe a sneaky short, so next I will COMPLETELY rewire it. Of course the schematic could be wrong. I don't know how to send a picture so I'll do the best I can to describe it in words: PID TA4 with SSR output 110VAC in, black to fuse, black from fuse to switch, switch to PID pin 1, then to SSR pin 1, SSR pin2 to receptacle hot (temporary load of a fan), receptacle neutral back to 110VAC neutral. Then PID pin 3 neg to SSR pin 4 neg, SSR pin 3 pos to PID 4 pos. TC K-probe connects to PID pins 7 and 8, observing polarity. Unless you see something glaring here, I believe you have done the best you can working remotely. It is something here and I'll just have to work it out. Many thanks for all the excellent videos, cooperation and especially your patience!
@@denzilcypret742 Send me an email and I will respond with a wiring diagram When you push set for 3 seconds (until the display reads AL1) let the set button go. If you hold it it will scroll. Use the blue button to start the digits flashing and then use up/down arrow to change. After that push set and let it go. Push set again and let it go to go to the next step.
Keep up the Great work George on keeping us educated. I recently watched your PID setting parameters very useful my question is once I lock in a desired heat setting why would my top heat setting go way over then back down it fluctuates. Thanks Jim
4:05 "with proportional integral control you will almost reach your set point but never quite get there, it's mathematically impossible". Sorry but that statement is true for proportional only control. Integral is what enables you to reach the set point. Derivative relates to the rate at which you approach the set point. It helps you run a higher integral to reach your set point sooner by helping to prevent overshoot.
@@cameronshine3465 Not sure I understand your question, but to elaborate my comment: in your Mypin or any PID controller there are among a bunch of other settings, three called P, I & D, which are the main ones to worry about. if you set P to a value, and leave I & D at zero, you can never reach your set point, because the drive to reach the set point is proportional (P) to the distance from the set point. ergo, when you are close to your set point, the drive to get there is small, and it never happens. this fixed distance between the operating and set point is called the offset. Integral (I) forces the operating point closer to the set point by adding an amount that you specify to the mathematical expression governing your operating point. If you add just the right amount, you reach your set point and life is good. if you add too much, it overshoots. then the proportional control kicks in to drive it back the other way (in the case of temperature control, turns off the heating or cooling source). with too much integral you continue to oscillate. The fix for this is to reduce the integral or add in some Derivative (D). This measures the speed at which your operating point approaches the set point, and predictively turns off the heating ahead of getting there to try and control overshoot. (Derivative is a calculus term in which the rate of change of an equation can be determined). All of that is the theory. in practice it can still be super hard finding the right settings for your application. For the trial and error approach, you start with P & end up at D with trial values. There are more analytical approaches but I dont know them in sufficient detail to pass that knowledge on.
Thank you for the video. But I need to control a set of mercury relays and the on off frequency is bad for the relays. Can it be programmed to stay on till it reaches the SV? THANKS
Great videos like always!, i showed on a group the picture of my built for PID controller and someone said to me this:" What are you going to regulate with your pid? The boiling temp of your mash is set by laws of physics and the abv in your mash. Look at the green line in the graph. That's the boiling point of your mash. Did you ever try to get water to boil below or above 212/100º F/C with your pid? You don't need a pid, you need a power regulator on the amps you supply to your heating element." So it started a debate with the guys , what can i tell him? I only want to use it in winter because propane and inside distilling is to dangerous.
A PID controls the power output to the element based on need. It adjusts the amperage and voltage required by timing the power supply in the SSR as the control signal is converted to a square wave where changes only happen at the zero crossing point. This timing function converts that square wave into a percentage of power realized at the element. It is a smart controller as opposed to an analog controller you turn up and down. Hope this helps George
awesome video! Thank you for taking your time and creating the most comprehensive video I've seen on PIDControllers. There's one thing that I don't understand though and that is I believe you said at the beginning that we needed to change something to make it a temperature for heat treating and it came sit at something else and for whatever reason and I think I missed it. Can you elaborate please thank you
I just set up the same controller for a powder coater oven. My elements did not come on when temp was set to 240 degrees. I started testing. I do not have any voltage coming out of pins 3-4 & 5-6. Therefore the SSR's are not being turned on. Can you tell me what voltage they should be putting out and if its a/c or d/c.
Love your song in the videos and can not figure out where to find it to hear the whole song. Sorry to bug you but really want to know what this song is
George i did everything u said I played with the numbers give it time to make adjustments. I just can’t get it to stabilize on the temperature I set it at.. this is the 4th time I’ve had it back out.. I just don’t understand it at all.. I’m ready to mail this thing to u and see what is going own with this crazy thing ... I’ve got me a headache 🤕 with this thing. Starting to think this is not for but so cool, and I built it. Could be the problem lol! Any more information would be nice 👍
I installed the mypin PID tonight and i set the parameters to your settings George " and a big thanks for showing them so clearly" .mine is the MYPIN Temperature controller - model : TD4-SNR , Input : TC/RTD, Output : SSR , POWER : 90-260V AC/DC. Mine has a extra light on the front panel, from the left - S/MV OUT1 OUT2/AL2 AL1 AT/M 5 Lamps. If i click the set button the S/MV lamp comes on and the volts keep changing bouncing around showing the voltage sent to the element "good" . But i am not sure what the new S/MV lamp is for.
so I recently dropped the box and my T series was all UUUUU across the top. it has since been repaired. the temp can be set now but the thermometer isn't reading at all. it sounds like it's trying to heat up. what can I do to get this working the way it was when I got it? it didn't fall far and it's still very new. only used a dozen times maybe
Could you do a video on controlling a heating element in water using a PID -- and efficiency of SSR vs SCR? I have an 8KW Atmor tankless water heater that has two switched heating elements. I want to add stable electronic temperature control. But I can't find good information about the different options! Seems the PID + SSR MAY have longer switching time, and that MAY reduce heating element life from thermal cycling vs a higher speed SCR. But I am having trouble finding the real answer.
Thanks you thank you! I have been waiting for this video My question is with my 8 gallon pot/5500watt - 220volt heater - I notice it is turning off/on a lot! It is slowing the reflux on the 2" column. Heater on reflux/ heater off no reflux. Finally the question -To increase reflux can I lower wattage to heater element via Mypid and how? Or should I replace element to 3000watt for 8 gallon pot
Hello, I have a PID on my home made powder coating oven. It is used to turn on my Carlin EZ propane gas burner. Everything thing seems to work fine except when the oven gets close to the shut on temp, it cuts off befor reaching the set temp. Say, the temp is set at 400 degrees, when the temp raise to 390 degrees, I see the Out1 light come on and kills the flame, then right back on. Repeats this till it finally get up to 400 degrees. Does not mater the temp setting, always cuts it off befor the set temp. You have any ideal what might cause this?
Hi, thank you for so good explanation video, i just have one question, does the preset values remains after main power is shut off then when its again on do i have to set parameters again and again or it remains saved ? Thank very much. Kind regards
hello.. i like very much yours videos.. i ha ve a question? i'm into charcuterie making. i use inkbird pid controller for my smoker, but can i use it for controlling my fermentation and drying chamber? which it should run in 55 F, and 80% relative humidity, and if it not, what would you recommend me/ i'm using vertical fridge medicated with humidifier and a dehumidifier .... i was using an Inkbird IHC-200 WIFI and ITC-308-WIFI (WHICH IT BROKE AFTER A WEEK ))
A couple of questions George. You do a great job on all the videos. I am fixing to change my 15 gallon propane powered pot over to either a PID controller or a power controller setup. I have looked at quite a few setups and will build the panel myself. Do you prefer to use a thermocouple or an RTD, and why, and on your systems is the measuring point the liquid in the pot or the vapor at the tower head.
Thermocouples come in many different types. I prefer the K type. It has 2 wires and is accurate. The only difference between this one and others is the min-max temp rating which is well below zero and well above several hundred degrees. There are others with 3 wire hook ups as well. They all wok the same way but are just rated differently. The temp is best monitored at the point where vapor exits the head.
Hi. I have a twidec mv100 controller. It doesnt get up to the right temp. And then cycles constantly on/off are you familiar with it? Or any idea what settings to look for and change?
Hi George. Thanks so much for your informative and clear instructions. Is it possible to use the AL2 output (which is labeled "SSR" on my device) as an alternative process-control output? The main ctrl output on my TA4 is proportional out i.e., 0 - 10volts, which isn't suitable for the application I have in mind. The instructions that came with my TA4 hints that AL2 can be configured as the control output but is unclear about how to actually do it. It may be that it is there for processes that requires both active heating and active cooling...
Yes, you can use AL2 as a switch. You will need to provide power to one pin of the AL2 connection and then run from the other connection to your device. Of course a neutral wire to your device for the complete circuit. When the requirements of AL2 are met the relay will close and your attached device will come on. George
HELP! Mash in the still and getting a UUUU and there is no OUT1 light is not on? It was working just fine last run a week ago?? Thanks George I had a spare relay laying around and hooked it up. Now the out2 light is on and also out2?
Sir I am going to build egg incubator any suggestion which brand and series of PID temperatur and humidity controller to use. Which brand has the best accurity. Thank you
Hi George. Super appreciative for all the terrific advice you provide in your videos. I'm hoping you can help me reset the MyPin TA4 SSR controller. It worked fine for the first few runs. Then I tried to get it into autotune mode and probably hit the wrong sequence of buttons. Now it ignores my set point and just keeps heating and heating well beyond the set point. It is overriding the settings you suggested even though they are still programmed. Many thanks in advance.
Thanks great video series, I have relearn and lot of formulas I was tort many years ago, is it possible to add a water control valve and temp control to! Would work great on the T500? Thanks
Hey George thank you very much for doing this. I have watched all of the PID making, wiring, and setting videos, along with just about all of your other videos, and they are extremely helpful and very well done! The one question I did have was on the auto tune part. After pushing the auto tune button you say let it run for a cycle and it will do its thing. Is the cycle you are referring to the time from when the PID controller comes on to the time it reaches its set value and turns, in this case the heating element, off? Or is the auto tune cycle a set or determined time that is programmed into the PID? Just trying to realize how long it will take for the auto tune feature to run its coarse. Thank you very much again for all of the help and knowledge that you have shared with all that have watched. They are very much appreciated George.
The cycle I refer to is the auto tune cycle itself. I set the set value at 110 and begin heating ; when it gets to about 85 -90 I push auto tune. When the PID reaches its set temperature the auto tine light will go out. This is the cycle I am talking about. I do this a couple times (mostly because its neat) as I heat up to operating temp. Hope this helps. George
Yes it did help. I noticed you using the auto tune in this manner in the video that you did recently on making a run. So the auto tune is really just an internal self evaluation for the PID to insure that it is operating at its optimum efficiency. Thanks so much again George and happy distilling!
So I think I need a little help so I can not change the temperature up or down on the PID I have the same one you have in this video I thought I was just supposed to be able to press the blue button and then change the numbers up or down but when I hit the blue button nothing happens please help
My temp controller was set at 100C out of the box. I switched to F and it still said 100. Is this still in C or is it now 100F? I would have expected the set point to change to 212 when switched to F.
Question. I am using this to control a heater for kiln. But my settings are causing it to open and close when it gets close to set parameter. How can I set it do it simply goes off when desired temp is reached? I want to stop the throttling of the relay and just have it open once temp is reached. Thank you
Is there a way to set a mypin TA4 to manual mode to deliver 0 to 100 percent power to the element? I have it set up as a pid running a 250v 5k element. I would like to try running it manually.
When you say run through process one time does that mean the complete operation of the still? Starting out at 120f then moving up to best process temp for your particular unit?
Quick question. The controller I have is reading some off-the-wall temps. When set to J it reads 234, E-208, S-943, PT -323, LN -199 and Y-273. In theory, it should be reading somewhere around 80 degrees, or the same temp as it is in the room. Thanks if you can answer.
I mean you have set this at 1, a 1 second delay for the pid to decide to close or open the contact in the pid, which do you think is best a 20 second delay or a 1 second delay to stop the contact from heating up and burning out? Also your setting is set to 1 , does this setting work for you ok ?
You are thinking of this as a standard mechanical relay. It is not a standard relay. These figures work for me. By the way the 1 is a proportional setting not 1 second.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Yes your right there I was thinking on the line of a mechanical relay, I use to replace or install the CE 3 phase 240 volt contactor on street light circuits a few years back, thanks for clearing that up.
I have delema I've tried 2 different k type thermocouples and 2 mypin pid's and get the same result. I calibrate the temp using the puf function so it matches the temp on 3 other thermometers and the pid reading doesnt hold steady to match the others it will either rise 1/10 of degree at a time and keep going to a couple of degrees off from the other thermometers. So I recalibrated everything to match then put the thermomoters and the pid probe in to some ice water. The other themomenters read 36 f and the pid reads 43 f dont know what is causing that or what to do about it. does the same thing in boiling water at the other end.
3 year old video but still helping people to this day! Now I'm using mine for powdercoat oven controll but I figured it would work in same settings that you showed. So far so good. I appreciate it!
this guy is the best teacher i haver ever come across \
thanks for the great job and hope all is well with yourself and your family
George, thank you for clearing up a couple issues I'm having in settings. I've got to say; I have watched most of your videos and I have never viewed a you tube instructional video as detailed and helpful as yours. Thanks George
I'm building a powder coating oven and this guide has immensely help me understand the settings. Thank you so much. My low limit was set high for some reason and I wasn't able to get the temperature that I needed. I was able to set it quickly just by watching this video. Thank you so much. It is greatly appreciated.
im building a pid smoker controller , and watching your videos are the best out here on youtube for understanding how this thing works , you must be a local votech teacher , great job man , 2 thumbs up
SMOKING MEAT AND DIY BY DANIEL do you have yours set to “heat” or “cool”? Obviously you’re heating the unit, but the PID I’m replacing needed the blower to be set to cool
Thank you George for all of your videos they make the beginner feel more confident.
Glad you like them!
Thank you George for helping me to hook up my PID controller to my screen printing conveyor dryer. I cant tell you how much I appreciate you help! You are wonderful and God sent! I will be gettting back with you as soon as I get the temp probe
Sedrick. I saw your test. As I feared, looks like you shorted out the probe circuit when it sparked. I think you need a new PID.
We'll get this running right so don't worry.
Thank you George for explaining the My pin parameters I would never have been able to make head or tail of those instructions keep making your videos sitting mine up for a barbecue to hold a temperature of 250 f
5 years old and still helping me, thanks! I'm using this to control my oxalic acid vaporizer so I can treat my honey bees,
Guess I don’t need those electric classes after all, thanks for all your videos, planning my build soon and have learned all from your channel.
Thanks a ton George.....your videos hands down have helped me and others more than you will ever know. I really appreciate you taking the time and effort to do these very educational and helpful videos. Thank you.
Thanks Derrick.
George
derrick rice what sir goerge gmail. Can't thank you
Can't search
Fantastic, easy to follow instructions. Now I can use my electric smoker as a smoker and as an oven. Thank you!
George, I don't know much about PIDs but what I do came from you! Thank you so much.
I have a TA4-SSR that I am setting up for an electric smoker. To test it, I have the 110vac hot going to PID pin 1 and neutral 110vac to PID pin 2. A jumper goes from PID (hot) pin 2 to SSD pin 2 and SSD pin 1 goes to the hot side of a 110vac fan, serving as the load. The neutral fan lead goes to PID pin 2. Then, SSR 4(neg) goes to PID 3(neg) while SSR3 (pos) connects to PID 4 (pos) The K probe connects to PID 7 (neg) and PID 8(pos).
In normal operation mode the PV is 85 and the SV is 86. When PV reaches 86, the SSR input lite flashes on/off . On the PID, the output flashes on/off and the AL1 is lit. However, the load (fan) does NOT come on! I feel I am close but my brain is so twisted I cannot see my error for the life of me! I hope you can find time to educate me further. Anxious!
Do not, do not run the neutral to pin #2.
Use the SSR as you would a switch.
Hot wire to pin #1. Neutral wire to the fan.
Run a separate hot sire from pin #1 to the fan.
When the PID engages it will complete the circuit to the fan and it will come on.
Your K probe is correct.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing George, please, please forgive me for being so dense.
Is this what you mean? PID #1 (hot) and #2 (neutral) are the mains supply. PID #1 connects to SSR #2. SSR #1 goes to the hot side of the fan. The neutral side of the fan goes to PID #2 completing the fan circuit (when the SSR is turned on by the K probe).
Of course, as you have made very clear in prior posts, other elements of the circuit are a switch, receptacle, fuse(s), panel lights, cooling fan and an ac amp meter which I especially like! If I am getting closer to understanding all this I am very happy. The eureka moment for me was your statement to use the SSR as a switch--as simple as that! You are truly the best! Now to see if it will float! Denny
Oops! That one doesn't work!
I re-checked and found an error. PID #1 goes to SSR #1 (not SSR #2 !!!)and a jumper goes from SSR #1 to the hot side of the fan. So, if I connect the cold side of the fan to SSR #2 it still doesn't work. I'm having trouble getting the fan to neutral--your instructions said do not connect neutral to pin 2, which I assume to mean PID #2. Do I misunderstand your advice? Alternatively, seems to me it would work if I went from PID 1 to SSR 1 and the SSR 2 to one side of the fan, and connect the other fan side to PID #2......?
OK, success finally! I simply connected the fan in series between SSR #2 and PID #2, as in the alternative I stated in my last sentence above. Thanks for your patience and help! Now I can start cutting holes in the box.
An absolute down to earth gentleman we are not interested in how iy works we are interested in making it work Kind Regards
Hi George. Very informative as ever. Just a small point. The Integral is the area under the curve. The derivative is the slope of the curve.
George, You da Man!!! I have learned so much watching your videos, THANK-YOU!
Thanks for a great video on the MyPin settings. I have the TA6 and, as you said, the settings are the same procedure.
Somehow, I got my settings off (didn't hit the final set button?) and went thru the procedure again. All good.
Using the PID is of tremendous value. What really sold me on it was a video made by a large commercial brewery. Their control board had multiple MyPin PIDs to control their entire brewing process.
Glad to help!
Great video, thank you for posting it.
----- One comment on Auto Tuning that others might find helpful. If your going to auto-tune your PID settings make sure to first set the temperature to a value you expect to be using regularly, click and hold the "AT" button, and most importantly WAIT till the AT light turns off. Otherwise you will not have completed a full auto tune cycle and the parameters will likely be incorrect (most likely an under estimate).
Thanks again for the concise video, I couldn't make heads or tails of the horrible so called manual I found online.
What would be a good temperature to use the auto tune when im smoking a 6 pound boston butt.
You are so excited and passionate and excited about all you post, it makes it so easy. I thank you so much for you invaluable help
Thanks a million. Sharing is our passion.
George
I'm not using this for brewing but your explanation was excellent regardless of what you're using this for. Thanks!
Please explain auto tune in more detail if you can. I have built two PID controllers (after studying your videos) a main and back up with fans and thermostats to control them. BTW One lesson I learned was not to use an AC voltage fan as it induces electrical noise into the PID and causes the PV to fluctuate out of control. Thanks for all the valuable information you have published and thank you for the personal help you have provided via phone conversation in the past. You are greatly appreciated!
The auto tune function will fine tune your P,I and D settings for you and will match them to your process. These will be the best settings based on how your still runs and it does it by itself. Just let it run through a self tune cycle while you are distilling (when the light goes out it is done). You can check your settings after that to see where they are for your still.
great refresher...now I'm using it to control my laser's water chiller! What a handy little gadget. I built your controller with the SS relay etc. Works great.
Excellent
Once again ... you sir ... are a complete genius... so much esoteric info "distilled" into a useable format... kudos to you sir..😍😎
Thanks for the help, I set this up to manage a HLT in my brewhouse while I am at home asleep so that I have my water ready to go right on time in the morning.
Glad it helped!
Thanks for this video! You took the mystery out of the programming. This help a lot!
This is a really great video!
I wonder how many hours of playing with this thing it took to learn all of that? You saved everybody at least that many hours and probably some burnt out equipment!
1. Hold set key for about 5 secs
2. AL set to 300
3. A01 set to 2
4. AL2 set to 450
5. A02 set to 2
6. PUF is the offset to adjust (used if temp is off of calibration)
7. INP K type (looks like a backward Y)
8. P set to 1
9. I (looks like 1) set to 540
10. D set to 200
11. Heat
12. Hys set to 1
13. Cel set to 001
14. C - F set to F
15. LCY set to 000
16. Hold set
Can you help me. please set for my PID mypin 200 degree .
sorry for my eng.
Thanks for this George, and answering my phone call. I did have a bad controller. Amazon sent a replacement and I’m good to go.
Outstanding
You rock George! Thanks a million for this video. How in the world did you figure out all the parameters???!!!! I would not have figured it out.
Thank your sir George I hope this works for me and I think it will, yes I would have never got there, and that’s why I put it in a box and need this video really bad, if u run for President you got my vote and and the whole gang lol 😂Thanks again u are the greatest 🙏
Charlie, you are so gracious. Thanks for the comment. I hope this helps you achieve the success you deserve. If you have any issues with the PID let me know. If necessary I can pre-set one here and switch with you. I'll ship one to you and you can ship yours back to me.
Geogre
Great video thank you. You got your I and D mixed up when stating that with PI it would never actually reach temperature. The integral is what makes sure it gets there because it multiplies by the sum of error. The derivative essentially just acts as a damping factor to control overshoot.
Im going to try to build and set my own PID Thanks for the information.
I watch this video so much. Great content!
Thanks for all the time and effort you put into your videos. They are the best I have found for building a pid controller. I have a problem with one I just built that I can't solve. When it reaches the set temp, the power doesn't shut off.
Alan,
Does the light on the SSR stay on after it reaches the set temp? It is more likely your still has not balanced yet and the residual heat while the element was on is just making it to the probe area. The balancing takes about 15 minutes or so at a lower temperature (~ 130-140F). Let me know what happens or if the light stays on.
Thanks for this one. Now I understand mine just a little bit better.
BLESS YOU for decyphering that instruction sheet for us! :-D
Great series of videos. I built a version of your device but your recommended settings do not work for my 5 gallon kettle and 110 volt hot plate, and the Auto Tuning feature of the Inkbird does not work well either.
It is helpful to understand that PID is really three control mechanisms. The Proportional setting can work by itself but it will always achieve a steady state temperature below the set point and takes a long time to stabilize. If you add in the Integral setting you can achieve an actual temperature equal to the set temperature. The Differential setting is there to look at the rate of change of the temperature and predict based on the rate of change whether to increase the power or decrease it. Add all three together and you get a rapid increase of temperature to begin, with a more gradual increase as you get closer to the set temperature to prevent the temperature over-running the set temperature.
However, if you set any of the P, I, or D settings too high the result can be a very unstable temperature controller.
Without resorting to complicated math, you can adjust the values as follows:
1. Set the I and D values to zero.
2. Set the P value to give you the desired time to reach the desired temperature quickly (say between 100 and 200). Notice that the indicated temperature will overshoot the set temperature but eventually settle in to a temperature several degrees below the set temperature.
3. Next increase the I value so that the indicated temperature settles close to the set temperature.
4. Next set the D value carefully to a value that gives you a stable temperature without big over-shoots or under-shoots.
You can do the above procedure with just water in your still kettle.
The mistake most hobbyists make is to jack up the values of P, I, and D too high. Don’t set the P value too high in an attempt to heat quickly. The I value should be no more than half the P value, and the D value should be even less. Setting each value separately and observing the result will give you the best performance: a rapid rise initially followed by a slow rise to the set temperature without big swings over or under the set temperature.
With a little patience a PID controller can be dialed in to give you a great control over your distilling or brewing process.
Thanks
Thank you for this nice walk through. I'm taking my system out after a few years off from brewing and can't find my manual for the controller.
Thank you for the video. this got me up and running quick
Thanks, I had no idea what all the abbreviations meant.
One super video help for me George, thanks a million
Always good to hear from you Charlie.
George
Thanks George. Really amazing vid.
how about a video more about alarms, I am thinking a audio for lower to set at about 145* and maybe set upper for 175* to let you know about close to cut stages..
I had to divert for a while from working on my controller. I have watched your videos again and they remain at the top of excellence for easy-to-understand and very concise instruction and information. I have the Mypin TA4 with SSR output operating on 110 VAC and ultimately be used for a BBQ smoker. But right now while I'm trying to get the programming set up, I am using a fan for the load, instead of a 1500 W heating element. Problem: As soon as I turn it on, the display and LEDS blink at the rate of about 30 hz/sec. Press and hold SET and must wait 30-45 sec for AL1 to come up and then it will go to A01, AL2, etc, on down the list and start over--at no point do I have a chance to interact and enter changes. I know from your videos what I want to enter and altho I am not yet adept at quickly pressing correct buttons in correct sequence I think I am quick enough. Same thing occurs when I begin by holding down both green buttons. Do you have any ideas? Of course, it may be that the controller is faulty or that my wiring is wrong. I have included a lit fan switch, a large LED that shows when the SSR is operating--yes, a redundancy I know! plus a multi-function watt meter. Also 2 AC outlets and panel-mount fuses. All of these extras seem to work fine. I should also note that the controller must have been set up to have the SSR in conducting mode as the load (fan) and signal LED both are on. Thanks so much for any help!
Once you get AL1, AO1, AL2, AL2 stop a the next parameter and then push the blue button to access its setting. After that you use the up/down arrows to set that and then press set to save and then set to go to the next parameter.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks George! Well, I followed your very simple instructions and here is part of what I found. The flickering continues and makes it next to impossible to see any changes made by pressing the blue button if I am lucky enough to get to that point, and it moves only sometimes. Often the parameter choices just starts quickly indexing to the next one. The whole display may go dead for 1 sec , then return somewhere down the list. I have no idea what I do to trigger it, but it will start flashin g gibberish (to me!) eg, cJS, CJl, Lch, CuL until I turn it off. In general, it seems to mostly ignore the set key and especially the blue key. You make it look so easy in your videos so something must be wrong with me or the PID, or maybe both! Is it possible I could have damaged it while trying to get it programmed?
I just remembered that the first time I turned it on, the display momentarily dimmed for a split second and I heard a faint click-like noise. I had it fused for 2 amps and the fuse did not blow.
@@denzilcypret742 Very possible you damaged it or it is just faulty.
I have only had 2 of these fail from the factory in the past 5 years. It is possible that it is just faulty.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewingI did as you said about going thru AL1, AL2, etc, but I could not stop it from going to the next parameter automatically and it was cycling so rapidly I could not stop it with the blue button or the set. I have to say it is uncontrollable with my present knowledge. OK, so I installed another PID, brand new, out of the box, and it responds in exactly the same way! This is so ridiculous that I think it must be something on site here, maybe a sneaky short, so next I will COMPLETELY rewire it. Of course the schematic could be wrong. I don't know how to send a picture so I'll do the best I can to describe it in words:
PID TA4 with SSR output
110VAC in,
black to fuse,
black from fuse to switch,
switch to PID pin 1,
then to SSR pin 1,
SSR pin2 to receptacle hot (temporary load of a fan),
receptacle neutral back to 110VAC neutral.
Then PID pin 3 neg to SSR pin 4 neg,
SSR pin 3 pos to PID 4 pos.
TC K-probe connects to PID pins 7 and 8, observing polarity.
Unless you see something glaring here, I believe you have done the best you can working remotely. It is something here and I'll just have to work it out. Many thanks for all the excellent videos, cooperation and especially your patience!
@@denzilcypret742 Send me an email and I will respond with a wiring diagram
When you push set for 3 seconds (until the display reads AL1) let the set button go. If you hold it it will scroll.
Use the blue button to start the digits flashing and then use up/down arrow to change. After that push set and let it go. Push set again and let it go to go to the next step.
Keep up the Great work George on keeping us educated. I recently watched your PID setting parameters very useful my question is once I lock in a desired heat setting why would my top heat setting go way over then back down it fluctuates. Thanks Jim
4:05 "with proportional integral control you will almost reach your set point but never quite get there, it's mathematically impossible".
Sorry but that statement is true for proportional only control. Integral is what enables you to reach the set point. Derivative relates to the rate at which you approach the set point. It helps you run a higher integral to reach your set point sooner by helping to prevent overshoot.
meetim i have just bought the mypin, what do u mean in regard to the settings here ?
@@cameronshine3465 Not sure I understand your question, but to elaborate my comment: in your Mypin or any PID controller there are among a bunch of other settings, three called P, I & D, which are the main ones to worry about. if you set P to a value, and leave I & D at zero, you can never reach your set point, because the drive to reach the set point is proportional (P) to the distance from the set point. ergo, when you are close to your set point, the drive to get there is small, and it never happens. this fixed distance between the operating and set point is called the offset. Integral (I) forces the operating point closer to the set point by adding an amount that you specify to the mathematical expression governing your operating point. If you add just the right amount, you reach your set point and life is good. if you add too much, it overshoots. then the proportional control kicks in to drive it back the other way (in the case of temperature control, turns off the heating or cooling source). with too much integral you continue to oscillate. The fix for this is to reduce the integral or add in some Derivative (D). This measures the speed at which your operating point approaches the set point, and predictively turns off the heating ahead of getting there to try and control overshoot. (Derivative is a calculus term in which the rate of change of an equation can be determined). All of that is the theory. in practice it can still be super hard finding the right settings for your application. For the trial and error approach, you start with P & end up at D with trial values. There are more analytical approaches but I dont know them in sufficient detail to pass that knowledge on.
@@meetim6271 ok thanks , yes that makes cents .
Hey!
Thanks for the info. One question however. When should I autotune the PID controller? (if at all)
The helped a lot!
Thank you George!
Glad to hear it!
Thank you, that was very helpful.
Thank you for the video. But I need to control a set of mercury relays and the on off frequency is bad for the relays. Can it be programmed to stay on till it reaches the SV?
THANKS
Thanks saved me at lot of time setting up, but mine does not auto tune it just stays in the auto tune mode. Is there a factory reset?
Great videos like always!, i showed on a group the picture of my built for PID controller and someone said to me this:" What are you going to regulate with your pid? The boiling temp of your mash is set by laws of physics and the abv in your mash. Look at the green line in the graph. That's the boiling point of your mash. Did you ever try to get water to boil below or above 212/100º F/C with your pid? You don't need a pid, you need a power regulator on the amps you supply to your heating element."
So it started a debate with the guys , what can i tell him? I only want to use it in winter because propane and inside distilling is to dangerous.
A PID controls the power output to the element based on need. It adjusts the amperage and voltage required by timing the power supply in the SSR as the control signal is converted to a square wave where changes only happen at the zero crossing point. This timing function converts that square wave into a percentage of power realized at the element. It is a smart controller as opposed to an analog controller you turn up and down.
Hope this helps
George
Thank you
Your explanation is great
awesome video! Thank you for taking your time and creating the most comprehensive video I've seen on PIDControllers. There's one thing that I don't understand though and that is I believe you said at the beginning that we needed to change something to make it a temperature for heat treating and it came sit at something else and for whatever reason and I think I missed it. Can you elaborate please thank you
I just set up the same controller for a powder coater oven. My elements did not come on when temp was set to 240 degrees. I started testing. I do not have any voltage coming out of pins 3-4 & 5-6. Therefore the SSR's are not being turned on. Can you tell me what voltage they should be putting out and if its a/c or d/c.
Love your song in the videos and can not figure out where to find it to hear the whole song. Sorry to bug you but really want to know what this song is
George i did everything u said I played with the numbers give it time to make adjustments. I just can’t get it to stabilize on the temperature I set it at.. this is the 4th time I’ve had it back out.. I just don’t understand it at all.. I’m ready to mail this thing to u and see what is going own with this crazy thing ... I’ve got me a headache 🤕 with this thing. Starting to think this is not for but so cool, and I built it. Could be the problem lol! Any more information would be nice 👍
Send it to me and I'll take a look at it.
Send me an email and I will provide an address
george.duncan76@gmail.com
Hellow there, i got my new same controller for my Meat Room and i need to set it up to -20 degree celsius.. what parameters should i need to change?
I installed the mypin PID tonight and i set the parameters to your settings George " and a big thanks for showing them so clearly" .mine is the MYPIN Temperature controller - model : TD4-SNR , Input : TC/RTD, Output : SSR , POWER : 90-260V AC/DC. Mine has a extra light on the front panel, from the left - S/MV OUT1 OUT2/AL2 AL1 AT/M 5 Lamps. If i click the set button the S/MV lamp comes on and the volts keep changing bouncing around showing the voltage sent to the element "good" . But i am not sure what the new S/MV lamp is for.
Wish you still made videos. Hope you’re well bud.
Will this controller do anything other than go to the temp set and hold?
George.... Thank you so much for this . I was am having issues with mine. Say I set for 180, it would keep pushing past the set temp. Even at 195??
so I recently dropped the box and my T series was all UUUUU across the top. it has since been repaired. the temp can be set now but the thermometer isn't reading at all. it sounds like it's trying to heat up. what can I do to get this working the way it was when I got it? it didn't fall far and it's still very new. only used a dozen times maybe
Could you do a video on controlling a heating element in water using a PID -- and efficiency of SSR vs SCR?
I have an 8KW Atmor tankless water heater that has two switched heating elements. I want to add stable electronic temperature control. But I can't find good information about the different options!
Seems the PID + SSR MAY have longer switching time, and that MAY reduce heating element life from thermal cycling vs a higher speed SCR. But I am having trouble finding the real answer.
Thanks you thank you! I have been waiting for this video My question is with my 8 gallon pot/5500watt - 220volt heater - I notice it is turning off/on a lot! It is slowing the reflux on the 2" column. Heater on reflux/ heater off no reflux. Finally the question -To increase reflux can I lower wattage to heater element via Mypid and how? Or should I replace element to 3000watt for 8 gallon pot
Louis Lilienthal I have the same question on lowering the max power from 100% to 50%.
Thank you, George!
Thanks for a great video . Have you had any experience with the Berme REXC100 PID Controller ?Had 2 of them and couldnt program them properly
Yes and I have moved to the mypin and inkbirb models. They are very reliable and programmable.
Hello,
I have a PID on my home made powder coating oven. It is used to turn on my Carlin EZ propane gas burner. Everything thing seems to work fine except when the oven gets close to the shut on temp, it cuts off befor reaching the set temp. Say, the temp is set at 400 degrees, when the temp raise to 390 degrees, I see the Out1 light come on and kills the flame, then right back on. Repeats this till it finally get up to 400 degrees. Does not mater the temp setting, always cuts it off befor the set temp. You have any ideal what might cause this?
I'm simple-minded. I'll stick with my nuwave pro. that thing rocks. thx bro. your idea.
No problem. If it works there is no need to try to fix it.
Thanks
George
Barley and Hops Brewing LLC
Can u please tell me how to evaluate the Exact PID values ...
Google PID, it is the best way to get an explanation of it.
Which part set's the temperature you want your still to run at?
What’s the difference between the TA4 and the TD4? Thanks for the videos, they’re extremely informative.
I can find any difference between them. The TD series lists the TA manual. Not sure if there is any difference at all.
Hi, thank you for so good explanation video, i just have one question, does the preset values remains after main power is shut off then when its again on do i have to set parameters again and again or it remains saved ?
Thank very much.
Kind regards
The values remain set until you change them.
Thank you very much 😊
hello.. i like very much yours videos.. i ha ve a question? i'm into charcuterie making. i use inkbird pid controller for my smoker, but can i use it for controlling my fermentation and drying chamber? which it should run in 55 F, and 80% relative humidity, and if it not, what would you recommend me/ i'm using vertical fridge medicated with humidifier and a dehumidifier .... i was using an Inkbird IHC-200 WIFI and ITC-308-WIFI (WHICH IT BROKE AFTER A WEEK ))
A couple of questions George. You do a great job on all the videos. I am fixing to change my 15 gallon propane powered pot over to either a PID controller or a power controller setup. I have looked at quite a few setups and will build the panel myself. Do you prefer to use a thermocouple or an RTD, and why, and on your systems is the measuring point the liquid in the pot or the vapor at the tower head.
Thermocouples come in many different types. I prefer the K type. It has 2 wires and is accurate. The only difference between this one and others is the min-max temp rating which is well below zero and well above several hundred degrees. There are others with 3 wire hook ups as well. They all wok the same way but are just rated differently.
The temp is best monitored at the point where vapor exits the head.
Hi. I have a twidec mv100 controller. It doesnt get up to the right temp. And then cycles constantly on/off are you familiar with it? Or any idea what settings to look for and change?
How do you set the program to stop and start over from the beginning?
What type of heater you are using?
Hi George. Thanks so much for your informative and clear instructions. Is it possible to use the AL2 output (which is labeled "SSR" on my device) as an alternative process-control output? The main ctrl output on my TA4 is proportional out i.e., 0 - 10volts, which isn't suitable for the application I have in mind. The instructions that came with my TA4 hints that AL2 can be configured as the control output but is unclear about how to actually do it. It may be that it is there for processes that requires both active heating and active cooling...
Yes, you can use AL2 as a switch. You will need to provide power to one pin of the AL2 connection and then run from the other connection to your device. Of course a neutral wire to your device for the complete circuit.
When the requirements of AL2 are met the relay will close and your attached device will come on.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Thanks for taking the time to reply, George. All the best.
Hi there
I am new to this but is there a way to set it up so when it reaches dripping temp slows down the heat till the end of the run?
HELP! Mash in the still and getting a UUUU and there is no OUT1 light is not on? It was working just fine last run a week ago?? Thanks George
I had a spare relay laying around and hooked it up. Now the out2 light is on and also out2?
Do you know if there is a way to reprogram the controller for a pt1000 rtd instead of the pt100 rtd
Is there a manual mode on this PID controller? I'm asking this to control the the power output when the wort is boiling. Thank you in advance
Sir I am going to build egg incubator any suggestion which brand and series of PID temperatur and humidity controller to use. Which brand has the best accurity. Thank you
I’ve set the parameters to your exact settings. Do you have any idea why mine overshoots by 20 degrees?
10 gal copper still w/thumper. Thanks George!
Very well explained. Thanks
Can I use this for a coffee roaster?
Thank you so much for this video it helped me alot
Glad to hear that it helped.
George
Hi George. Super appreciative for all the terrific advice you provide in your videos. I'm hoping you can help me reset the MyPin TA4 SSR controller. It worked fine for the first few runs. Then I tried to get it into autotune mode and probably hit the wrong sequence of buttons. Now it ignores my set point and just keeps heating and heating well beyond the set point. It is overriding the settings you suggested even though they are still programmed. Many thanks in advance.
HI WHICH SYMBOL ON THE TABLE RELATED TO THE ALARM BUZZER? tnx
Thanks great video series, I have relearn and lot of formulas I was tort many years ago, is it possible to add a water control valve and temp control to! Would work great on the T500? Thanks
That is possible and delicate. This PID does have an analog output to operate valves but I have not delved into that yet.
George
Hey George thank you very much for doing this. I have watched all of the PID making, wiring, and setting videos, along with just about all of your other videos, and they are extremely helpful and very well done! The one question I did have was on the auto tune part. After pushing the auto tune button you say let it run for a cycle and it will do its thing. Is the cycle you are referring to the time from when the PID controller comes on to the time it reaches its set value and turns, in this case the heating element, off? Or is the auto tune cycle a set or determined time that is programmed into the PID? Just trying to realize how long it will take for the auto tune feature to run its coarse. Thank you very much again for all of the help and knowledge that you have shared with all that have watched. They are very much appreciated George.
The cycle I refer to is the auto tune cycle itself. I set the set value at 110 and begin heating ; when it gets to about 85 -90 I push auto tune. When the PID reaches its set temperature the auto tine light will go out. This is the cycle I am talking about.
I do this a couple times (mostly because its neat) as I heat up to operating temp.
Hope this helps.
George
Yes it did help. I noticed you using the auto tune in this manner in the video that you did recently on making a run. So the auto tune is really just an internal self evaluation for the PID to insure that it is operating at its optimum efficiency. Thanks so much again George and happy distilling!
Glad to hear you find it helpful. I love these things, they are amazing.
George
So I think I need a little help so I can not change the temperature up or down on the PID I have the same one you have in this video I thought I was just supposed to be able to press the blue button and then change the numbers up or down but when I hit the blue button nothing happens please help
My temp controller was set at 100C out of the box. I switched to F and it still said 100. Is this still in C or is it now 100F? I would have expected the set point to change to 212 when switched to F.
Question.
I am using this to control a heater for kiln. But my settings are causing it to open and close when it gets close to set parameter.
How can I set it do it simply goes off when desired temp is reached?
I want to stop the throttling of the relay and just have it open once temp is reached.
Thank you
Is there a way to set a mypin TA4 to manual mode to deliver 0 to 100 percent power to the element?
I have it set up as a pid running a 250v 5k element.
I would like to try running it manually.
When you say run through process one time does that mean the complete operation of the still? Starting out at 120f then moving up to best process temp for your particular unit?
Yes
Quick question. The controller I have is reading some off-the-wall temps. When set to J it reads 234, E-208, S-943, PT -323, LN -199 and Y-273. In theory, it should be reading somewhere around 80 degrees, or the same temp as it is in the room. Thanks if you can answer.
You probably have a K type sensor. Set it to K type (looks like a backwards small K).
Let me know if that fixes it.
George
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Backwards small y, wasn't it?
Does it exactly support SCR mode of Output control?
I mean you have set this at 1, a 1 second delay for the pid to decide to close or open the contact in the pid, which do you think is best a 20 second delay or a 1 second delay to stop the contact from heating up and burning out? Also your setting is set to 1 , does this setting work for you ok ?
You are thinking of this as a standard mechanical relay. It is not a standard relay. These figures work for me. By the way the 1 is a proportional setting not 1 second.
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing thanks so much , i will set it to 1
@@BarleyandHopsBrewing Yes your right there I was thinking on the line of a mechanical relay, I use to replace or install the CE 3 phase 240 volt contactor on street light circuits a few years back, thanks for clearing that up.
In your opinion do you prefer this model or the inkbird?
Both are equal and I use both of them
I have delema I've tried 2 different k type thermocouples and 2 mypin pid's and get the same result. I calibrate the temp using the puf function so it matches the temp on 3 other thermometers and the pid reading doesnt hold steady to match the others it will either rise 1/10 of degree at a time and keep going to a couple of degrees off from the other thermometers. So I recalibrated everything to match then put the thermomoters and the pid probe in to some ice water. The other themomenters read 36 f and the pid reads 43 f dont know what is causing that or what to do about it. does the same thing in boiling water at the other end.