How to Remove Runs and Sags in Car Paint - Single Stage or Clear Coat
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 15 ก.ย. 2018
- Nothing is more depressing than going back to look at your fresh paint job only to notice a nasty run or two or 5! Here I will show you my favorite method to remove runs and sags in fresh car paint. It works very well on single stage or clear coat - enamel, lacquer or urethane.
/ @lakesideautobody - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I'm the king of runs, it kills my moral when I see a beautiful cascade dripping down my fresh paint job.😬😎😆
It doesn't feel good at all to see runs :)
You just need to be patient and leave at least 10-15 minutes between coats. 🇬🇧
I like this video imma try it as soon as i get home ty finally a video that gets straight to the point and not talk around in circles like other videos do here on youtube.
Thank you for the support - I'm glad you like the video - have a great weekend
This video is legend.
I enjoy your channel and will continue watching
Thanks, I'm glad you enjoy it. Feel free to ask any ?'s you may have.
Awesome video , Some of the best informative HOW 2 videos out there.Thank you Sir!
You're welcome. Glad you like them - happy 🦃
I stumbled upon your channel and I love it and subscribed. Eventually the autobody trolls of TH-cam will come here and pick apart everything you do but just ignore the assholes and keep making videos. Now I know how to tackle those pesky runs when they show up. Thanks again!
Yes, they probably will have something to say but I will continue to make videos with methods that are time tested. Thanks for the support! Jerry
Hi again Dustin - just stumbled on your comment after two years. You were right - I do get some pretty aggressive comments but I guess it's par for the course. Hope everything is going well with you. Thanks again, Jerry
@@AdamA-pm3yn Thanks a lot Adam - I appreciate the kind words - I'm glad to hear you like the channel - enjoy the rest of the week my friend :)
@@AdamA-pm3yn I would have to say the thing that fuels haters is envy and self hate. If they make fun of others or hurt them in some way it makes their life seem just a bit better. That's a darn shame what they do to that guy - I'm going to have to check out his channel and give him some positive comments. Nice talking to you Adam :)
@@AdamA-pm3yn Does Paul do the firearms channel?
The dreaded run, I got one this morning. Too close with the rattle can! Thanks for helping me sort it out. 😊
No problem 👍
If its single stage just sand down whole spot til all run is gone and roll on a lil paint then cut n buff
I just love this guy. I have so much more confidence now.
Thank you for the tutorial. Love the attention to detail. Helped me out a lot, appreciate the video.
You're welcome. If you ever have ?'s, feel free to ask. Have a good week end, Jerry
I do have a quick question? How long do you wait until you can wet sand clear coat?
Usually I wait a day - if I am going to wheel it out. But if I'm fixing a mess up like a bug in the paint etc. I only wait till its dry to the touch. You just have to be careful and sand very lightly. Today's good urethane clear coat with hardener can be sanded and wheeled the same day. Hope that helps.
Dude... Thank you. Just finished my 3rd complete car and had issues with water in the line and a drip from the gun hitting the hood this will definitely help me correct a few mistakes 🤣👍
Glad to hear it - have a good week :)
Great information!
Glad it was helpful - have a good week :)
Great job!👌🏽
Thank you! 😁
Good technique, going to fix my paint. Too bad the ceiling light is right on the run, can’t really see how it came out, but great instructions. Didn’t know I could do that with car paint (single stage).
Single stage solid colors but not metallics
@@LakesideAutobody Oh good to know solids. Yes mine is solid, and i did what you said it working, just have to buff and polish. Save me from having to coat it again. Even did it to specks of dust particles and its smooth now. Thanks again !
@@LakesideAutobody why not on metallics?
I got a couple runs on my door panel + orange peel. first time ever painting. (SAPHIRE BLUE METALLIC ACRYLIC URETHANE)
@@zlabfab487 Sorry about the late reply - sometimes it can mess up the metallic flakes if sanding too deep into the paint.
@@LakesideAutobody okay i see. thanks for the reply !
Nice repair
Thanks 👍
Put a small piece of masking tape on the sides of the razer Blade so the corners won't cut into or scratch/dig into the paint or clear I've even bent a blade you can also pick up a little paint file.. I also have a small 1inch block to hold my paper to keep it small to sand then use my 3 inch polisher taping the edge so I don't burn through...
Lucky vthat was not matailic for single stage ..you must of had five gallons of paint in there becouse a normal person would have burnt through the edges still showing a little but that was a lot of buffing with a big buffer...
Good idea Peter. You're right about burning through. I've had a lot of practice removing runs :)
Will this still work if I use single stage metallic paint? I can’t seem to find any direct answers regarding sanding metallic single stage. I plan to also spray a layer of clear over the metallic single stage paint
Here's the clear answer. You can wet sand and buff single stage paint and you'll be fine. However, with runs it is different because you will have to sand deep thus disturbing the metallic flakes. To put it simply, runs in metallic paint is not good - you will see where you sanded. That being said, anything is possible so try it and clear it and maybe you'll be happy with it.
Great Video... Great Tips. Thanks again.,.. Si
Thanks and you're welcome - have a good week :)
You as well...
Nice detailing !....will this razor thing work on 2k single stage polyurethane paint?
Yes 😊 GIve it a few days to harden up - if you do it too early, it may "dig in" instead of "plane" or stay on top.
Great video, shows the time needed to get it done correctly. Thx
You're welcome
thank you very helpful
You're welcome Dale :)
My 95 F350 has pretty paint- from a few feet away. There’s some runs in it. Somebody re sprayed it half ass and outside. Looks like I’m going to learn to wheel paint properly. Would a DA buffer be a good choice?
Here's a good video on the topic - th-cam.com/video/CD8eSWToeWQ/w-d-xo.html If you have more ?s, feel free to ask :)
What do you use to prime small ding areas of car. In other words i working on my car as time permits and will prime the whole car when done, so i want to stop any rust before full car prime. Rattle can?
It depends on how long or if you park it outside, etc. If it's left inside, you can prime it with regular lacquer primer, spray bomb, anything - you can leave it like that for a very long time (inside). I confess - I also leave it outside too and only worry if I see rust start to poke through. If I do see rust poke through, I'll DA sand it all off real quick and re prime. I've left stuff in lacquer primer outside for more than a year and have had no issues. That being said, you are going to have a lot of chatter online about how there's rust under it and so on. When in doubt, DA some of it off and see. You can always hit it with some water proof primer too really make sure. You'll have to read the can to make sure - like epoxy primer and some urethane primers are waterproof. In the end it really doesn't make or break your paint job. Hope that helps :)
Jerry, I completely painted my MG all over. I had no problems with the white base coat. No runs or bugs but I did have some orange peel on just a few places. My disaster is the several coats of clear coat I applied……… I have several runs on both fenders, one door both quarter panels, etc. Should I try to remove the runs as You describe in this video or sand all the clear coat runs out and scuff the rest of the clear coat and reclear coat the entire car all over?
If you have a ton of runs, it would be easier to just wet sand and re-clear. If there are just a few runs - like 4-5 you might want to try this method. It's really a time thing - you'd spend a ton of time removing them all. It's your choice really. We've all had runs in paint/clear too so don't feel bad - par for the course :)
@@LakesideAutobody Well I really did end up with a lot of runs in the clear coat. First time spraying clear coat for Me, I’ve learned a lot with this project. I’m taking Your advice and wet sand all the runs and sags and redo the entire clear. Thanks Jerry for all your videos and advice.
@@johnrodebaugh7120 Any time - ask as many ?s as you need to. Keep me posted on your projects :)
Hey I have a question does single stage pain takes same method to take runs out ??? Let me know thanks
Yes - it's the same.
In your opinion as far as runs go. Is it the lighting or is it that the painter isn't looking into the paint or the clear and judging better how much material is going down? Everyone is going for that wet look and many it seems are right on the edge. I just watched another video and the guy was very experienced painter and got a lot of runs and sags and he didn't care because it was a cheap job. The roof,hood and trunk lid looked good but the runs and sags were just below the window sills and super noticable. His repair was no where near as nice as yours and it was good enough. My thought is if you're paying $200 and up for just paint,reducer and clear, putting in the labor,you want decent results. I really liked your approach and attention to detail and the little tips. Great video, thanks Jerry. I don't like making comparisons but I'd be very embarrassed letting a vehicle go down the road looking like that.
Thanks for the support Bill. First of all beware of videos showing great paint jobs on flat surfaces - that's easy - you can get it super wet and not run it. Truth is... if you push it too far on vertical panels you'll end up with runs and runs are not really fun to remove. The most important thing is lighting - paint booths have great lighting. If you're spraying in the dark, you'll likely end up with runs. Best is to have good lighting, watch what you're doing and don't gamble. Wet sanding and buffing a bit of orange peel here and there is easier and safer than trying to remove runs :)
I might of missed, but do you wait 6 months after the paint job to fix?
No - with hardener in the paint - you can wet sand and buff the next day.
What kind of attachment and compound for the DA polisher / sander ? Thank you in advance.
A DA polisher would take a bit longer as it is less aggressive but can still be done. You can get wool pads for a DA polisher and use the same compound I'm using here - I think it was MEGUIARS M8532 BSP "DIAMOND CUT" COMPOUND
Jerry I used Rust-Oleum paint and I got to run in my door what number paper should I use I don't I didn't use no any clear
If you are going to repair - wet sand with 400. If you are going to buff use like 800, 1000, or even finer like 1200-1500. I'd try 800-1000 first though - wet sanding :)
Great job showing how it's done! Maybe I missed it but what kind of compound were you using?
I didn't see it in the video but I like this stuff: www.jbtools.com/meguiars-m8501-mirror-glaze-diamond-cut-compound-2-0-1-gallon/?wi=off&gclid=CjwKCAjwgviIBhBkEiwA10D2j7P8lxoigpGv8n6Lp1byKpRUeFO-BuwcF4zrAiR8qejXWEPA-6FbexoCJnUQAvD_BwE
@@LakesideAutobody Thanks! I had a sag in some acrylic urethane I sanded out and am ready to polish it now.
@@mumbles552 Cool - let me know how it goes :)
You saved my car. I was going to set my car on fire because of a run like that. I will try this technique fist.😄
That'll get rid of them also 😂😂😂
Acrylic enamel? Aren't they 2 opposite types of paint?
They sell spray cans labelled this way in my country but its just acrylic paint with acetone thinner
That's what it has been called for years here in the US. Acrylic Enamel. We do have acrylic paint here too in craft stores though. I think there's a difference between acrylic enamel and acrylic paint - not a chemist though :)
Is that compound on the wheel? If so, what kind is the best to use?
Yes - I use MEGUIARS M8532 "DIAMOND CUT" COMPOUND
How long after spraying the paint do you recommend waiting before fixing the runs?
You can work on them the next day. The paint will be hard enough to work carefully. If worried, give it one more day.
@@LakesideAutobody awesome, thanks for the recommendation!
Still in there catch the light
I see you're rocking a basic harbor freight rotary. Are you using their pads too? Or would you recommend buying pads somewhere else? Do you have different pads or do you just stick to the wool pad? I'd like to see a video specifically on the polishing process. I really appreciate the time you spend on sharing your knowledge.
Thanks so much - that's nice to hear. Don't kn ow where the pads came from - they were my dad's. from when he worked in body shops back in the 70's - that's how old those things are - I have a few of them. You can get them on line though - something like this - www.eastwood.com/grip-7-wool-buffing-pad-29305.html?SRCCODE=PLA00020&gclid=Cj0KCQiAyJOBBhDCARIsAJG2h5c8Np6KrS2oIZ4rqxmHYoC-A8zNNjHDKKPZgIDTokyNvNQY7qEXnCkaAgmtEALw_wcB Maybe this video will help: th-cam.com/video/pSwz47dXG9c/w-d-xo.html
@@LakesideAutobody I feel like such an oaf. Of course you already have a video on the subject. I didn't even look. I learned some great tips. I have a da polisher from harbor freight that doesn't have quite enough bite. I've been thinking of going to a rotary, but it makes me nervous. The consensus online is that only the most skilled pro's can handle a rotary. I think I'll give it a try using your tips. I'll start with my wife's car 😆. I don't think I can make it any worse than it already is. Thanks again.
Awesome.
Thanks :)
How long do you usually need to wait to do this after painting?? Using acrylic urethane paint single stage.
Usually the day after. You can do it even earlier depending on the temperature, type of paint, if it had hardener, etc. Basically, you'll be able to tell if the paint is hard enough when you begin to wet sand. If it seems like the paper wants to stick - wait. Jerry
Lakeside Autobody thank you!
cool!
thanks
You're welcome
Some use nib files, what ever works in your hands. Nice job!
Thanks Bruce - thanks for watching :)
Can you use any kind of polish?
Yes - a lot of folks will say no but I've never had a problem with any type of wax or polish - even the day after painting (with hardener in the paint)
@@LakesideAutobody Thank you!
What would happen if youbstatted with sand paper?
That will work too but you might end up hitting the surrounding areas - thus the razor blade to stay on top of the run :)
damn ,awesome
Thanks S - have a good weekend :)
Any tips on spraying nitrocellulose paint..
If you are spraying lacquer there are a few things to look out for. Spraying over fresh or near fresh enamel can cause problems or bad paint reactions. Enamel and urethane can be put over lacquer but lacquer cannot be sprayed over enamel (relatively fresh). If it's old enamel you'll be fine. Just be aware of what you are spraying it over - do a test spot before you lay down a whole cup of it. That being said, to me it sprays just like any other paint. The only difference is that you have to buff it to achieve a shine. It dries fast, wet sands nicely and buffs out easily. That's all they used for a large part of the 20th century. Oh, and don't spray w/ high humidity as it can trap moisture and you'll get a foggy look to the paint. Hope that helps a bit - ask any other ?s you may have though. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody thanks so much Jerry
Its an old citroen gs from the 70s but most of the original paint is gone so im sanding it down and going to prime it with 1k lacquer primer and etch were its bare metal
@@brokeunemployed5208 I forgot the best thing about lacquer primer is that it's DTM - direct to metal - no need for etching primer, epoxy or anything like that. Lacquer primer loves bare sanded metal.
@@LakesideAutobody great thanks again Jerry
You have been most helpful
@@LakesideAutobody Known as blooming when I was an apprentice in the early seventies 😬🇬🇧
Shit I'm no pro but it looks just fine to me". Don't know if I'd whant you doing that to my personal ride but
Explain how you would fix a run in a professional setting?
How long did you wait before you began cutting that run? Nice work!
The next day - Thanks
Save paint runs 2:09
The reflection from the light was confusing me. Thought it was the sag, most of the video.
That was quite an old camera. Panasonic PV950 Omni Movie - the kind you wear on your shoulder :)
2:30 jeez that sound is horrendous
Just put a spread of stopper over it after razor blading then block it,, quicker and safer
I can never fix runs like this as I always have tiny pin holes in the run after sanding
Interesting... What type of paint are you using?
@@LakesideAutobody it's in the 2k clear ..
@@therealdeal4492 Maybe try reducing the clear a bit more and going with 2 regular coats - the last being a bit wetter than the first. Give 10 minutes between coats. If it's put on too fast and wet it may cause solvent pop or micro-popping. There's some good stuff on the internet on this topic and how to prevent it. Let me know if you solve it, what the fix was, and what you think was causing it. Curious 👍 Jerry
@LakesideAutobody I couldn't find anything on the micro popping..
I wait at least 15 min flash times ..
May have to reduce it alot ?
Do you know anything about this?
It looks clouding in thick spots or runs..but is very tiny pin holes like micro popping.?
Any help would be appreciated as I have been dealing with this for a bit and is not easy to cover over .
Many thanks!
@@therealdeal4492 Check this article out under solvent popping. globalfinishing.com/2020/05/13/4-common-causes-of-finishing-defects-how-to-remedy-them/ I've never ran into it but I don't spray thick paint. If anything I spray it on the thin side like 4 parts paint and hardener to 2 parts reducer or even more depending on the paint thickness out of the can. I can't stand thick paint. It leads to all kinds of misery - orange peel, dry areas, heavy sags from trying to get it wet, thickness around tape, takes longer to dry, etc. I would suggest reducing your paint & putting on thinner coats. You'll have to move a bit faster because it will be a bit thinner so you won't want to put it on as heavy as you are used to. Here's a forum on it to - seems other folks have the problem to - is the surface hot when you paint? Do you have excess moisture in your location? www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?threads/clearcoat-boiling-solvent-trapping-micro-bubbles.7024/
Came out ok still had some lumps but ok.
👍 - Merry C 🎄🎅🎉
What grits are on the electric sander?
Meguiar's M105 Mirror Glaze Ultra-Cut Compound
@@LakesideAutobody Oh. so it's polishing compound. I don't have access to electricity or a polisher where I'm fixing my car. It's outside, and I have to do the sanding and polishing by hand. After I saw all the runs on the hood, I decided to do only spots on the trunk. It will take hours to fix the hood. Can I use that compound by hand?
@@Gertyutz Yes but it will take some work. Good luck - that will be a good arm work out :)
@@LakesideAutobody I figured out my problem. The spray cans I see in YoutTube demos spray in a much wider pattern than mine, (or they're using a spray gun, which doesn't apply to my situation). I'm using Rustoleum 2x Cover Coat Clear Gloss, and the spray pattern is too narrow. I'm getting either a stippled finish for being too far, or runs from being too close. I get better results on vertical surfaces. I made a mess of my hood yesterday.
I do have an orbital sander that I use for work and a drill with a circular rubber sanding pad, but I've never used them for polishing.
Should we move this conversation to Private Messaging?
@@Gertyutz I don't think you'll have much luck removing runs from spray bomb can paint as it is probably too thin to work with. If I were you I would set that hood out in the sun, bake it dry, sand it, and try painting it again. But practice first on a junk fender or something like that.
should try the scratch it off method I show. it really works the best. then continue with the way you do it. scratching them off helps you not sand through as easily. Try It. then.....make a video ha ha.
I'll check it out - what's the video called?
@@LakesideAutobody middle of this one somewhere and the newest polishing the Karmann ghia. right in the beginning. th-cam.com/video/SSbCi03LJB8/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/Xi8SuwQFvmM/w-d-xo.html
Go to 12:50 and it’s 23 seconds away
The paint looks.....ok. Now you just have to detail the inside and door panel you just got polish and clear coat residue all over.
This man is using 400 here I'm afraid to use use 800 lol
Probably because you see too many folks on the internet using super fine sand paper for everything. Body shops are not afraid to start with a course grit and move to a finer grit - saves time and $. Thanks for watching :)
That was a horrific you could clearly still see the run after you finished sanding even at the end the paint work was eneven
I agree, In fact, there are numerous issues in his process. First, you can't go from 400 to 1500. You need an intermediate grit, say 800. Second, he left way too much of the run when he switched to 1500...you need to get the great bulk of the run out with the coarsest paper on a hard block. You cannot remove the remnants of a major run like this one with 1500. You will sand thru before the run comes out. I do agree the use of the razor blades. Sorry to say, but for those who do this for a living, this was not an acceptable repair. Not even close.
keep the apprentice off the gun man!
Everyone gets runs. I rarely have to buff a paint job but by getting it that wet you are gambling and inevitably you'll end up with a run every now and then. Can you fix the run is the question :)
whats your favorite setup for spraying the 2k paints? I spray a marine 2k aliphatic linear PU. gloss clear , can't thin it and get 100% durability desired, so I use a 2.0mm tip with a HVLP gun with a soft pressure pushing it up to it and pick the peak time of day temp wise to get it to flatten out best as it can, most times its fine after 3 coats starting with a thinner first coat. This doing carbon fiber topcoats- using west 105/206 tinted black for laminating.
all compund splatter on the dash and door cards haha
Not too hard to clean up. Had to have the door open. Much faster to clean up than mask off the whole interior.