Some tips and tricks with painting action figures: - the grey artist proof mcfarlane figures don't technically need to be primed. It's good practice but you can generally go straight to paint - the typical process is to put the figure in a bowl and pour boiled water over it. After a few seconds it will get soft enough to dismantle - a common practice is to sand down the joints and rub points a little. It gives that half a hair extra room for the paint to not fight against the engineering and avoid paint rub - painting in sub assemblies, clear coat, then reassemble is a solid process but not the only way
Your cats are so photogenic. I love how they simply MUST be in frame. When you're painting, when you're taking glamour shots...they've decided those glamour shots are for THEM
For painting the Soft plastic bits, give em a coat of some Mod Podge. That way you're priming the glue, not the soft plastic. We do this in the JoyToy Warhammer community. The JoyToy figures have soft plastic bits aswell like cloaks/tabbards, to small bits.
I painted the Necron Flayed One action figure with airbrush chrome and tons of blood effects a year or so ago and it was a fun project to ease my way into warhammer from gunpla!
One of the most intriguing aspects of the hobby for me at the moment is scale. I started quite recently, and I'm starting to get comfortable with the painting process in general, but I struggle with tiny figures and really big ones. For the tiny ones, it's about the details, I can never get them as detailed as I want, or they look smudged from a distance but good up close. For the big ones, it's managing paint consistency. I paint in small sessions and I'm always a bit lost with the difference in look as I apply new color, because the specific tone only ever settles after a while, so it looks like the color is wrong to me as I'm working. Congrats on dealing with such big pieces, they are lovely.
Watching a guy here on TH-cam like Sergio Calvo, even though he’s a master painter, apply the same process over different models will teach you *loads*. Also the masterclass stuff by Squidmar is free on TH-cam if you haven’t found that already and it’s superb. They apply paint much more strategically than we do. We’re often more paint by numbers even if the colour choices are our own, we cover sections like a colour fill tool in photoshop. That’s awesome and there are no wrong answers but learning how they do things and trying to apply it leads to level up-ing pretty quick beyond getting really great fundamentals like solid coverage and how to control the brush, how much paint on the brush etc. Miniac and Ninjon are also great teachers. John also has a style that’s great to replicate to learn stacks from. Trovarion Miniatures is often advanced but his video on grimdark space marines is incredible and really opens the door of accessibility with amazing results. Of course our man Goobs here is fantastic as well for accessibility.
I've been painting 54mm stuff lately, and the difference in difficulty is wild, it's so easy. I'm really happy with a lot of what I've done, but then I can't use most of it for my games. Chalking it up as practice... No, Training. That sounds even better
I've done a bit of toy customization in my time and there is a lot of cross over with mini painting but some differences you have discovered. Here's some tips I know of that can help with toys, but I am far from an expert. 1. Soft bendy plastic gets tacky like you discovered. Supposedly the primer on Amazon titled "Vallejo USN Light Ghost Grey Primer Acrylic Polyurethane, 60ml" prevents that tackiness but I haven't actually gotten around to trying it yet. But I had that recommended to me when I was trying to paint a coat on a figure in the similar soft material. 2. Make sure you wash the figures. Toys have more mold release than minis so I always make sure to wash them first to ensure paint sticks to them. 3. Sand down joints where you get paint chipping/rubbing and use very thin coats in those locations. The tolerances for those joints can be very tight and you are adding material (paint) which thickens them. So sanding gives you more clearance. 4. Put a sealer/varnish on areas of bumpage or rubbing. In joints you will need to sand for this extra thickness but for like the shoulders hitting the chest just the varnish should protect it. 5. Mini paints are great for customization because of how small the paint particles are. 6. There are dyes you can get to chemically change the color of a part but I haven't messed with those. They tend to have less color choices than say mini paints. But since they aren't adding thickness they tend to be more durable. I learned my stuff from the Radicon forums of the TFW2005 Transformers forums. They have a number of how to guides there and trying to paint something that changes form adds another level of complexity to toy customization. I'm sure there are other toy customization resources available (and probably far more knowledgeable than me) but I do not know of them. Hopefully there was something useful here for you.
This was useful, thank you! The Vallejo primer you mentioned makes sense because it is water-soluble instead of using organic solvents like spraypaint uses. I think the spraypaints are slightly more durable than airbrush primers like vallejo / synylrez/ pro acryl polyurethanes, but in this case I guess brush on or airbrush primer is the way to go! Live and learn :-)
The waist plastic reacted the same way my original Reaper Bones plastic reacted to spray orimer. There is a chemical reaction between the plastic and one of the components of the primer spray (something in the propellent, i presume) that starts to break down the plastic cohesion. Is there not a way to unscrew or disassemble the figure prior to painting? Since it is designed to be painted, i would have thought disassembly would be desigbed into the figure to facilitate painting. Otherwise, goid job with what you were working with.
All of the ball joints can pop apart... Each model would be like ~15 pieces if I did that, and I figured it would be less fun to watch me paint a pile of bits... also I was afraid that I'd snap something during re-assembly. I totally agree with you that this would be a better approach to getting a high-quality paintjob though! 🙂
@@GoobertownHobbies if you had an opportunity to do another one that you painted in pieces, you could go for something like the Volkswagen Harlequin look, every section a different color. Go full body Pride.
You absolutely can take them apart, the best way to paint these is to dump them into hot water for a few minutes to let it get warm and soft. Then you can start popping it apart :)
@@GoobertownHobbies If you warm up the model in water, it won't break :) There are also disassembly guides about online. You can also print parts to swap out (I actually got a custom SoB head sculpted to pop on my own SoB figures :) )
Your sticky issue can be solved at the very beginning of the process. Step one clean all surfaces with denatured alcohol. You never know what contaminants the factory left on the toy. If it’s still sticky, wipe it down with acetone, then wipe it down with denatured alcohol. Also, don.t put it back in the plastic container it came in, you’ll be introducing factory contaminants back to your precious paint job and can wreak havoc.
Washing the model beforehand is a good idea. I think the stickiness was more of a result of the solvents in the spray can partially dissolving the top layer of that particular plastic... I'll get it sorted out one of these days :-)
as someone with family in IT and tech work, those cable covers on that Khornate marine would be an utter nightmare, lol. All i can think of is seeing those and losing them in a nest of wires and going "What do these go to!?" Great work as always though. I can imagine that sticky plastic must be a nightmare. it is, unfortunately, kind of noticeable too. the color on those parts seems just a bit off and you can tell it was made with something else. I dunno how i'd fix it, but i can definitely feel the frustration
I have a couple of artists McFarlane toys but I've never painted them. Mostly because they're collecible but also because it looks difficult and tedious, especially with the different plastics. You did well on these and for a great cause. I participated in the Fabmarines a few years ago and it's one of my biggest highlights in the hobby. I'll have to do another one soon, maybe next year!
In regards to handling larger firgure while painting: it's not exactly the same, but I have found this issue comes up when assembling gundam style kits that can be painted fully dissassembled. To stop myself getting huge thumb printers on the parts while putting them together, I hold some of the more fragile painted parts with oven paper/ wax paper. It tends to reject paint and even if I press hard enough to smoosh the paint, it distributes the pressure evenly and usually isn't noticable. Hope that helps.
That makes sense! I don't paint in sub-assemblies as much as I probably should-I think it makes the visually more interesting video to have them fully assembled... but you have a good strategy there! 🙂
@GoobertownHobbies Cheers. Well, not that it really has anything to do with the current content, but I'd strongly encourage you to give one of those kinds of kits a go. Branching out into different areas of scaling modelling every now and then is great for learning. :) Plus with your video style I'm sure you'd make it engaging even if the camera is zoomed in on half a detached leg. Oh, and good job supporting Trevor Project. Excellent cause, and certainly deserves the visability.
I've been really loving me some gunpla instagram recently- that was 100% my plan, but the paint durability got annoying and I was ready to move on to the next project ;-) That'll definitely happen someday, maybe even on some actual gunpla! 🙂
Next time you could try using a butane torch (not a lighter) on that tacky plastic. Just evenly graze the surface with the flame and it *should* help with adhesion.
I tend to wear a nitrile glove on my off-hand while painting large miniatures that I won't be able to avoid touching. It seems the best compromise between protecting the paint from the oils on my skin and not impairing the dexterity of my painting hand.
Good to note Ginger taking an interest as usual in the figures and probabbly thinking "Are my eyes going funny as Dad usually paint mini's much smaller?"
I have seen people that paint Joytoy warhammer action figures almost always take them apart before painting and use matt varnish at the end to secure the paint job.
I wonder if you can paint over already painted figures. There are a few used joytoy marines I see on sale that I’m tempted to buy, but they all come pre-painted. Is it possible to prime over them to start a new paint job? Or would it just turn into an incoherent blob of color 😅
I've had good luck fixing that tacky paint problem with Testors Dullcote. The kind you paint on with a brush. I'm not sure about the chemistry of things like this, I just know it's worked for me several times in the past.
For the parts that stay sticky and tacky, have you tried coating it with a layer of mod podge? I had a similar problem for a prop I was working on, where the paint kept sticking to anything it touched, and no amount of varnishing was doing the trick. But after I coated the sticky spots in mod podge (via a brush, not the spray sealer) it dried to create a decently thick protective layer.
Awesome work Brent! I wonder if the plastic weirdness is from the propellent in the primer or just something weord about that plastic with paint. Could you get them to send you more, for science?
It's almost certainly the organic solvents in the spraycan... I got too much liquid in the wrong places and it dried too slowly.... live and learn! I may try to track this down someday, we'll see :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies bigger ones for next June? How long until we see you sculpting and painting "life sized" fabulous Marines from marble? 5 years, 10?
I have been sanding and working on the mold lines for one of these for almost a year now. I'm SO glad I watched this video so I know about the priming issue. That's concerning!
Brush-on primer or airbrush primer should work fine, but be verrry careful with spraycan primer! I think I let a little too much solvent sit on the wrong pieces of plastic for a little too long... :-)
If its the regular kind of tacky that spray primers get, a fine mist of water hardens them right up. If you do this to the kind of tacky you have it will severly orange peel the paint. Ive been dealing with this due to some softer resin pours. The paint just isnt happy. I have had some luck blasting it with a uv sterilizer bulb. I had limited success with sunlight. It seems the added heat fights the curing power of natural uv.
I painted one of the artist-proof Intercessors and while I'm very happy with how it came out in the end, the paint being sticky and coming off on my fingers was also an issue for me. fortunately all he does is sit on a shelf. Terminator looks great in that strong blue, but imagine it would hurt my eyes if I was playing an army in that colour. Great work as always!
Issues with primer making plastic sticky is very common with softer plastics! Reaper Bones are well known for having this issue, so I always use brush-on primer. Some people claim it's the propellant in spray cans, but I'm not sure.
I've dealt with that tacky situation before on the first run of the Reaper Bones miniatures, I ended up fixing it by giving the area a dry brush with black craft paint, got rid of the tackiness completely
I've always been a big action figure fan, and this is a good way to check how others paint these figures. I have a decent collection and hearing how the figures have progressed is important to me as a collector, I hope get some Eldar and tau figures, maybe even some Seraphon action figures down the line! anyway, I'm on the fence on if I want to get any more marines, but the terminator is on my list of potentials. rambling along just to say you did a nice job on your "first?" take on action figure painting and some good things to watch out for with the line going forward :)
Ooh i have seen some if the McFarlane figures but was intimidated . I definitely think im gonna have a go now ... Altho i may just use my normal primer through the airbrush as that tackiness would be difficult to manage if ur holding the figuree
nice! Yeah you shouldn't have the tackiness problems with airbrush primer, have fun with it! (adhession of the primer to the plastic is a different story though, let me know how it turns out!) 🙂
Regarding the handling while painting problem, you could try the trick used in lapidary called dop sticks. It’s just a dowel rod with dop wax on the end. It’s super strong and when you’re done you just detach the dop wax seal with a knife. Note, I haven’t actually tried this with painting of action figures but I have in other applications and it works great. 👍
Shading and highlighting is still important with action figures its just not that cost effective, the more something is painted the more it cost to make so a ton go light on paint but if lucky it will have a wash or drybrush atleast.
I used the dregs from an old can of rustoleum and an old can of "armory" black primer... I don't think there was anything unique about either of those cans, probably I just let too much solvent sit on the plastic for too long. Indoors I did some spot-priming with my airbrush using some stynylrez.
Thanks for the reply! I was curious because I’ve tried to prime with the what I believed to be the same black rustolium on some wildspire DnD minis and ran into the exact same tacky issue you did. I managed to remedy the tacky finish with a quick 30 second soak in 99% isopropyl and left to dry again. I’ve also have not been able to achieve the same level of finish as you did on the non tacky sections which inspired me to go and give that can another try on something else and perhaps with better results.
This video got me worried. The sticky plastic issue and the scratched paint from moving part is really ennoying. I would love to try the Terminator, but if that mean I can't touch him without scratching paint it would be so frustrating :/
The Tackiness is a reaction of enamel with PVC similar reaction happens with Reaper Bones Miniatures. If you must prime use an acrylic primer or Vallejo Mecha Primer and let cure for 24 hours for durability and so it won’t rub off. For action figures you want to use paints similar to those Gunpla modelers use. Because Gundam models are posable the paints made for these are more durable. Tamyia paints, Mr. Color and Vallejo Mecha colors are very durable once cured. Or you can use your regular acrylics and use a strong clear acrylic clear coat. I prefer Vallejo Mecha Satin.
@@GoobertownHobbies they have some great sculpts. But, Bones and Bones USA can have the spray can reaction so saw with the Terminator (it is a pvc-based plastic, I think). So, Reaper specifically saya don't use spray can/rattle can paints on them. That tacky effect on the Bones/Bones USA line never stops and usually melts the whole thing eventually (think lead oxidation on the old Ral Partha metal minis)
Army Painter (maybe other companies too?) has special primer, which is safe for terrain-foam. I am guesskng that it has a different solvent? Maybe this primer would not make the plastic sticky?
@@GoobertownHobbies I am looking forward to the follow-up video where you try all the great suggestions you got in the comments here. Or do something else which exites you, it doesn’t really matter. Love the „we‘ll see how it goes and make the best of it“-spirit of you and your videos. Keep em coming, please! ☺️
I've been working on painting one of the artists version myself and had the same problem with the 'fabric' plastic on the Adepta Sororitas BattleSister one. I Still had fun trying it out
Brent do you have a video where you talk and rare different air brushes? I tried looking for couldn't find one. If you don't I would love to hear what you have to say about them!
This was interesting! I don't think I know any painting techniques that work on such large scale figures. I know, airbrush -- but I never managed to become friends with my airbrush. As for the figures themselves: I know it's irrational, but such large scale triggers in me a reaction of "this is a toy for kids!" (and bear in mind, I never collected anything larger than He-Man figures as a kid). I know it's irrational, because "proper" miniatures are toys too (for adults?), but I cannot help it. I see large action figures and my brain dismisses them as toys. At least I managed to trick my mind into believing LEGO bricks are for grownups! ;)
One of my favorite quotes ever is "When I became a man I put away childish things, including the fear of childishness and the desire to be very grown up." - C. S. Lewis. I collect Transformers and take them into the office with me. People will some times talk about them and dance around calling them a toy (using action figure or collectable or something) and I just say, "No they're toys". I like what I like and am mature enough to not let what someone think of me dissuade me from enjoying them. And no one has ever reacted negatively or judgmentally like the anxiety claims they will. Don't be afraid to like something because of how someone might react.
@@Ryoku1 that's a good quote. To be clear, I'm not casting judgment, and as for fear -- people outside our hobby consider miniatures to be toys, so I'm lost to them either way. It's definitely not fear. It's a part of my mind that, past a certain scale, makes me think "toy" rather than "hobby model" (there's something about McFarlane figures that makes this even more pronounced, somehow); I cannot explain it, but it makes me think "Barbie dolls" rather than "scifi hobby things". I don't claim this is rational, and again I want to make this clear: I'm not judging! I play games with tiny toy soldiers, who am I to judge?
I've painted a few of these. These are vynil figures. Varnish hates it. It will inevitably become tacky. Instead, use acrilic base. Its transparent, and coats propperly. You can coat trough an airbruah, or paint it over in a water diluted state. Also, being vynil action figures, its best you pop out all the pieces from their joints before the paintjob. They have high flexibility, but be careful with the hips amd leg joints. Popping those legs out is tricky. Knee joins rub off easy, and so do elbow joints, so use a lot of blackwash to coat it in thin layers. That way, the odds of acrylic buildup is low.
After seeing Rogue Hobbies talk about going from warhammer to gunpla and seeing somone paint the blank McFarlane figures i wonder if a bandai Warhammer model kit series would be viable?
@@GoobertownHobbies I too have two very inquisitive furry individuals assisting me in my painting attempts - I very quickly learned to use only jars with narrow openings for my water. Also: to avoid putting my own drinking cups anywhere near the painting water. The Forbidden Kompot poses risk not only for the curious, but also for the absent-minded...
I've been customizing figures for almost 20 years and I haven't exactly mastered painting these things yet. The paint rub around joints often requires prep work like sanding the points of contact away. Sanding these things is more cumbersome than painting them, btw. Otherwise, it helps to wash the figures with warm, soapy water to remove the mold release prior to painting if you haven't done that. As a chemist, I was hoping you could explain the stickiness that vexes the hobby. Perhaps that's a video for another time! I've heard the hard torsos are PVC(and plumbing cement has worked on them) and the limbs are often ABS, but the manufacturers don't list the materials and they change their products so often that it's hard to say for sure. Either way, this is why most of us have to stick with acrylics and avoid the cans. Oh! Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric spray used to work as a primer, but I've still had issues with using regular sprays over that.
thanks for sharing your experience! Yeah... I really should have washed them first, and also I should have used a lighter-touch with my spray primer... live and learn! Someday I'll get to the bottom of this :-)
It's a vinyl mix on the hips panels. So use a vinyl. Primer. Most dolls people Use MSC aka Mr super clear. We look forward to your pride figurines every year :)
Oh also, as a chemist you would be a reputable source for me to check this with, but does scraping off mould lines indoors create airborne plastic particles? Just checking regarding lung health and if I should do that outside instead.
Hey Mr.Goobertown I got a fun video idea for you sir. What, if any, are the benefits to different brush fibers? For example the "artify" drybrush kit versus more expensive options such as Artis Opus dry brushes? Ive heard better uplift and all this stuff but would love to see a scientific approach to the subject. Thanks for all the great videos!
Reaper Bones (not Bones USA, but original Bones and Bones Black) are PVC-based and have issues going tacky with aerosol sprays. They say that it's a chemical reaction between something in the propellant and the PVC. It will not stop no matter how much it is covered, though some have said leaving it in baking soda has neutralized it. I have some Bones figures sprayed over 5 years ago that are still tacky. Reaper does not recommend the use of any rattle can on their PVC-based Bones figures, even if people have anecdotally had success (the propellant chemicals likely dissipated enough prior to hitting the model). Since those pieces are flexible, I'd hazard a reasonable guess that a similar thing happened here. They probably have PVC in those pieces.
I've definitely had problems with spray paint and the softer plastics, especially reaper bones. These would benefit from some gunpla tools and techniques. Those folks use a panel lining paint that has incredibly low surface tension and would be great for blacklining these.
*Reaper flashbacks* Apart from the sticky tacky chaos, we always appreciate a good fabulous pride video from you wait that came out wrong But also, I am going to finally go throw out that tacky zenithal primes Reaper mini I've had sitting around on my desk for years now, because I can't bring myself to touch that sticky mess and try to paint it. 😅🎉
Well done for highlighting the Fabulous Marines project. It was also nice to see the people at White Dwarf doing their part to highlight the event. The more inclusive we can all be, the better. It was sad to see that parts of those action figures melted (especially as they seem to be designed to be painted?!) Perhaps you could suggest to them a warning label on the box. Anyway, they still came out looking fabulous, so well done!
I would imagine that one way to tackle the issue of the model moving around and scraping paint etc. would be to pick a pose and glue it in place, sure it completely removes the intent of it being an action figure but for me personally the appeal is simply that it's effectively a larger scale model I would get to pose myself. The loss of movement would not be a negative for me. I mean, It's essentially what I do with titans, knights and various tank models etc. No need for them to be moveable when I can fix them in place and get a better paint job as a result.
@@GoobertownHobbies Haha! Maybe it's the primers I use - for cars - so I wear a full mask and respirator or the particles will go in my eyes and face. Hey, you're a chemist Brent - is there actually a danger from using these sprays without proper protection?
@@benmiles00 particles are never good for the lungs, and neither is huffing organic solvents... both risks are massively reduced by working in the open air rather than an enclosed space. Realistically I prime outdoors like ~5 times per year for 5 minutes each time, so I'm not super concerned. If I were one of those street artists making planets and nebula pictures with spraypaint for 6 hours per day I'd definitely wear a mask. You're not wrong that protection is always wise, though! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Ah yes. A fair point regarding street painters. Yeah I don't do that much either but I set up a special spray shelter to reduce any overspray. I have a decent full face mask so I always wear it. I did notice there is very little scent in a GW or Vallejo can compared to the car spray cans. Thanks Sensei. 👍🏻🙏🏻
Awesome video, sucks to see how many fragile idiots there are in the comments, but they’re just embarrassing themselves at the end of the day. Looking forward to seeing what you do next year!
They look really good. I've painted a couple of these action figures too. I used a multi-primer from the DIY store that's designed to work on all kinds of plastics that don't take regular primer so well. It didn't cause any stickiness.
Fabulous Marines was how I found your channel, fell in love with your chill aesthetic with deep technical skills, and eventually has seen me return to the hobby after previously collecting & playing second edition. Thank you so much for all you and the rest of the FM group do to promote an inclusive hobby space
@@GoobertownHobbies I've had good luck with Spaz Stix for Gundams. Its meant for RC car bodies. Bonds well, no stickiness, and they have some cool effect paints too.
Wow the amount of hate is disgusting and pathetic. Literally clicking on a video just to complain. Must be a sad sad existence. Youre great goobs, keep it up ❤
People don't like seeing a beloved IP corrupted by real-life social issues. Instead of trying to change the idea, it's always attacks on those holding the ideas. The saddest part of the existence is we actually reached a point where the degenerates are lauded and those who disagree are the bad guys.
Great video! Just sad to see the haters already conquered the comments. Cool project, your content is awesome and I love to see that we are a great community for everyone.
I've used your videos for reference as I learn the different tools, materials, and techniques of miniature painting, but this video got me to finally subscribe. I never got very far into Warhammer because of the few people who seemed a little _too_ into the political side of "the grim darkness of the far future" you know? If hate's welcome here, clearly I'm not. Thanks for using your platform to push back against that. 🎉🏳️🌈🎉
Some tips and tricks with painting action figures:
- the grey artist proof mcfarlane figures don't technically need to be primed. It's good practice but you can generally go straight to paint
- the typical process is to put the figure in a bowl and pour boiled water over it. After a few seconds it will get soft enough to dismantle
- a common practice is to sand down the joints and rub points a little. It gives that half a hair extra room for the paint to not fight against the engineering and avoid paint rub
- painting in sub assemblies, clear coat, then reassemble is a solid process but not the only way
thank you!!! This all makes a lot of sense 🙂
This is super helpful advice! Thanks for sharing 😅👍🏼
20 seconds in and cat is like
Nah, F* these marines, I'm the star of this show
and proceeds to take center stage
yup, that'll be normal 🙂
These little men smell almost as bad as my foodservant.
Your cats are so photogenic. I love how they simply MUST be in frame. When you're painting, when you're taking glamour shots...they've decided those glamour shots are for THEM
I might as well let them be part of the videos (since I can't keep them out anyway!) :-)
I heard Corn Berserker and my Midwesterness took over.
I said Khorne, but Corn and Korn are also good!
You should get in touch with someone who knows chemistry to figure out why that paint got tacky 😉
If I remember correctly it's a matter of the aerosol agent being corrosive to that type of plastic. It's effectively like applying acetone to it.
@@novaiscool1 You probably already know this, but the joke is that Brent is a chemist :)
@@theandf I did not know that. I'm an extremely casual viewer for this channel, but I love the work he does as a painter.
Wait a minute… I see what you did there! 😎🤣😉
Went from Mego and original G.I. Joe to Star Wars/Micronauts/small Mego to new G.I. Joe. Even today I pick up the occasional action figure.
For painting the Soft plastic bits, give em a coat of some Mod Podge. That way you're priming the glue, not the soft plastic. We do this in the JoyToy Warhammer community. The JoyToy figures have soft plastic bits aswell like cloaks/tabbards, to small bits.
good call!
I painted the Necron Flayed One action figure with airbrush chrome and tons of blood effects a year or so ago and it was a fun project to ease my way into warhammer from gunpla!
One of the most intriguing aspects of the hobby for me at the moment is scale. I started quite recently, and I'm starting to get comfortable with the painting process in general, but I struggle with tiny figures and really big ones. For the tiny ones, it's about the details, I can never get them as detailed as I want, or they look smudged from a distance but good up close. For the big ones, it's managing paint consistency. I paint in small sessions and I'm always a bit lost with the difference in look as I apply new color, because the specific tone only ever settles after a while, so it looks like the color is wrong to me as I'm working. Congrats on dealing with such big pieces, they are lovely.
I hear ya! it's fun practice to try different scales, it really gets you thinking 🙂
Watching a guy here on TH-cam like Sergio Calvo, even though he’s a master painter, apply the same process over different models will teach you *loads*.
Also the masterclass stuff by Squidmar is free on TH-cam if you haven’t found that already and it’s superb.
They apply paint much more strategically than we do. We’re often more paint by numbers even if the colour choices are our own, we cover sections like a colour fill tool in photoshop. That’s awesome and there are no wrong answers but learning how they do things and trying to apply it leads to level up-ing pretty quick beyond getting really great fundamentals like solid coverage and how to control the brush, how much paint on the brush etc.
Miniac and Ninjon are also great teachers. John also has a style that’s great to replicate to learn stacks from.
Trovarion Miniatures is often advanced but his video on grimdark space marines is incredible and really opens the door of accessibility with amazing results.
Of course our man Goobs here is fantastic as well for accessibility.
I want to pick one of these to paint sooner or later, the sticky plastic problem was new to me, thanks for your sacrifice
It's half my fault because I soaked it with nasty old spray primer... but still, something to be aware of! 🙂
@@GoobertownHobbies Hopefully a layer of varnish would save it
Like when people repaint Barbies/Bratz & Co
@@VentuKing I'm thinking airbrush primer is going to be the way to go, possibly prime then varnish for strength then prime again.
@@VentuKing That's what I was hoping... but at least on the terminator belt it didn't work... oh well!
Coat the soft plastic bits in Mod Podge glue. We do this a ton in the JoyToy WH40K community
I want to see them as fishing lures, go ocean fishing, catch something big.
I've been painting 54mm stuff lately, and the difference in difficulty is wild, it's so easy. I'm really happy with a lot of what I've done, but then I can't use most of it for my games. Chalking it up as practice... No, Training. That sounds even better
different scales are fun! :-)
I Just thought of a great idea. Post pics online next to an oversize d20 with nothing else that shows scale 😎
I've done a bit of toy customization in my time and there is a lot of cross over with mini painting but some differences you have discovered. Here's some tips I know of that can help with toys, but I am far from an expert.
1. Soft bendy plastic gets tacky like you discovered. Supposedly the primer on Amazon titled "Vallejo USN Light Ghost Grey Primer Acrylic Polyurethane, 60ml" prevents that tackiness but I haven't actually gotten around to trying it yet. But I had that recommended to me when I was trying to paint a coat on a figure in the similar soft material.
2. Make sure you wash the figures. Toys have more mold release than minis so I always make sure to wash them first to ensure paint sticks to them.
3. Sand down joints where you get paint chipping/rubbing and use very thin coats in those locations. The tolerances for those joints can be very tight and you are adding material (paint) which thickens them. So sanding gives you more clearance.
4. Put a sealer/varnish on areas of bumpage or rubbing. In joints you will need to sand for this extra thickness but for like the shoulders hitting the chest just the varnish should protect it.
5. Mini paints are great for customization because of how small the paint particles are.
6. There are dyes you can get to chemically change the color of a part but I haven't messed with those. They tend to have less color choices than say mini paints. But since they aren't adding thickness they tend to be more durable.
I learned my stuff from the Radicon forums of the TFW2005 Transformers forums. They have a number of how to guides there and trying to paint something that changes form adds another level of complexity to toy customization. I'm sure there are other toy customization resources available (and probably far more knowledgeable than me) but I do not know of them.
Hopefully there was something useful here for you.
This was useful, thank you! The Vallejo primer you mentioned makes sense because it is water-soluble instead of using organic solvents like spraypaint uses. I think the spraypaints are slightly more durable than airbrush primers like vallejo / synylrez/ pro acryl polyurethanes, but in this case I guess brush on or airbrush primer is the way to go! Live and learn :-)
The waist plastic reacted the same way my original Reaper Bones plastic reacted to spray orimer. There is a chemical reaction between the plastic and one of the components of the primer spray (something in the propellent, i presume) that starts to break down the plastic cohesion.
Is there not a way to unscrew or disassemble the figure prior to painting? Since it is designed to be painted, i would have thought disassembly would be desigbed into the figure to facilitate painting. Otherwise, goid job with what you were working with.
All of the ball joints can pop apart... Each model would be like ~15 pieces if I did that, and I figured it would be less fun to watch me paint a pile of bits... also I was afraid that I'd snap something during re-assembly. I totally agree with you that this would be a better approach to getting a high-quality paintjob though! 🙂
@@GoobertownHobbies based on that knowledge, I'm picking up an Ork figure to try and paint. Airbrush primer only, of course.
@@GoobertownHobbies if you had an opportunity to do another one that you painted in pieces, you could go for something like the Volkswagen Harlequin look, every section a different color. Go full body Pride.
You absolutely can take them apart, the best way to paint these is to dump them into hot water for a few minutes to let it get warm and soft. Then you can start popping it apart :)
@@GoobertownHobbies If you warm up the model in water, it won't break :) There are also disassembly guides about online. You can also print parts to swap out (I actually got a custom SoB head sculpted to pop on my own SoB figures :) )
Brent, your videos are like soothing balm for the soul.
Your sticky issue can be solved at the very beginning of the process. Step one clean all surfaces with denatured alcohol. You never know what contaminants the factory left on the toy. If it’s still sticky, wipe it down with acetone, then wipe it down with denatured alcohol. Also, don.t put it back in the plastic container it came in, you’ll be introducing factory contaminants back to your precious paint job and can wreak havoc.
I don't think that whas the issue, I think the primer make the rubber-like plastic melt.
@@Gorgoth I’ve painted a lot of custom toys, it’s from years of experience.
Washing the model beforehand is a good idea. I think the stickiness was more of a result of the solvents in the spray can partially dissolving the top layer of that particular plastic... I'll get it sorted out one of these days :-)
as someone with family in IT and tech work, those cable covers on that Khornate marine would be an utter nightmare, lol. All i can think of is seeing those and losing them in a nest of wires and going "What do these go to!?"
Great work as always though. I can imagine that sticky plastic must be a nightmare. it is, unfortunately, kind of noticeable too. the color on those parts seems just a bit off and you can tell it was made with something else. I dunno how i'd fix it, but i can definitely feel the frustration
I have a couple of artists McFarlane toys but I've never painted them. Mostly because they're collecible but also because it looks difficult and tedious, especially with the different plastics. You did well on these and for a great cause. I participated in the Fabmarines a few years ago and it's one of my biggest highlights in the hobby. I'll have to do another one soon, maybe next year!
In regards to handling larger firgure while painting: it's not exactly the same, but I have found this issue comes up when assembling gundam style kits that can be painted fully dissassembled. To stop myself getting huge thumb printers on the parts while putting them together, I hold some of the more fragile painted parts with oven paper/ wax paper. It tends to reject paint and even if I press hard enough to smoosh the paint, it distributes the pressure evenly and usually isn't noticable. Hope that helps.
That makes sense! I don't paint in sub-assemblies as much as I probably should-I think it makes the visually more interesting video to have them fully assembled... but you have a good strategy there! 🙂
@GoobertownHobbies Cheers. Well, not that it really has anything to do with the current content, but I'd strongly encourage you to give one of those kinds of kits a go. Branching out into different areas of scaling modelling every now and then is great for learning. :) Plus with your video style I'm sure you'd make it engaging even if the camera is zoomed in on half a detached leg.
Oh, and good job supporting Trevor Project. Excellent cause, and certainly deserves the visability.
Great work as usual. That panel lining was on point. I thought you would go the GUnPla route!
I've been really loving me some gunpla instagram recently- that was 100% my plan, but the paint durability got annoying and I was ready to move on to the next project ;-) That'll definitely happen someday, maybe even on some actual gunpla! 🙂
Next time you could try using a butane torch (not a lighter) on that tacky plastic. Just evenly graze the surface with the flame and it *should* help with adhesion.
interesting!! That sounds like an outdoor kind of activity... but now I'm definitely curious!
It's advisable to do somewhere fumes won't accumulate 😅
@@wikyWargaming Would this be done before or after primering?
@@BlizzAz before, apologies!
@@wikyWargaming No problem. Thanks for the info.
Great job
I tend to wear a nitrile glove on my off-hand while painting large miniatures that I won't be able to avoid touching. It seems the best compromise between protecting the paint from the oils on my skin and not impairing the dexterity of my painting hand.
good thinkin :-)
Good to note Ginger taking an interest as usual in the figures and probabbly thinking "Are my eyes going funny as Dad usually paint mini's much smaller?"
these cats are always lookin confused :-)
Wonderful work as always, comments seem to be slightly less of a dumpster fire this year too which is promising!
I have seen people that paint Joytoy warhammer action figures almost always take them apart before painting and use matt varnish at the end to secure the paint job.
makes sense!
I wonder if you can paint over already painted figures. There are a few used joytoy marines I see on sale that I’m tempted to buy, but they all come pre-painted.
Is it possible to prime over them to start a new paint job? Or would it just turn into an incoherent blob of color 😅
You can absolutely re-paint these! It might take a bit of experimentation to find a primer that works well... but yeah it's worth trying! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Hell yeah! Gonna take a look then to see what I wanna try first. Thanks for the inspiration!
The tiny Brent in the thumbnail always brings me an immense amount of joy lol
I've had good luck fixing that tacky paint problem with Testors Dullcote. The kind you paint on with a brush. I'm not sure about the chemistry of things like this, I just know it's worked for me several times in the past.
I have some of that! It's good stuff, but it's expensive and comes in tiny cans, so I can never bring myself to actually use it hehehehe :-)
For the parts that stay sticky and tacky, have you tried coating it with a layer of mod podge? I had a similar problem for a prop I was working on, where the paint kept sticking to anything it touched, and no amount of varnishing was doing the trick. But after I coated the sticky spots in mod podge (via a brush, not the spray sealer) it dried to create a decently thick protective layer.
I'll give that a try, thanks for the suggestion! :-)
Awesome work Brent!
I wonder if the plastic weirdness is from the propellent in the primer or just something weord about that plastic with paint. Could you get them to send you more, for science?
It's almost certainly the organic solvents in the spraycan... I got too much liquid in the wrong places and it dried too slowly.... live and learn! I may try to track this down someday, we'll see :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies bigger ones for next June? How long until we see you sculpting and painting "life sized" fabulous Marines from marble? 5 years, 10?
it reacted the same way as trying to prime TPU did for a phone case of mine, might be it needs a different method of priming.
@@Jhokalups this is a good point... Tiny marines next year! 🙂
Thabks for another fun video! A painted buzz light-year style marine would be fun!
heck yeah! :-)
I have been sanding and working on the mold lines for one of these for almost a year now. I'm SO glad I watched this video so I know about the priming issue. That's concerning!
Brush-on primer or airbrush primer should work fine, but be verrry careful with spraycan primer! I think I let a little too much solvent sit on the wrong pieces of plastic for a little too long... :-)
If its the regular kind of tacky that spray primers get, a fine mist of water hardens them right up. If you do this to the kind of tacky you have it will severly orange peel the paint. Ive been dealing with this due to some softer resin pours. The paint just isnt happy. I have had some luck blasting it with a uv sterilizer bulb. I had limited success with sunlight. It seems the added heat fights the curing power of natural uv.
there's an art to it for sure :-)
The world eater took “be gay do crimes” a bit too far
The World Eater is all "we work hard, we play hard"
@@theandf where ya been, Homerius? Entire Steel confessors chapter's gay, Astral chapters too, and the Rangers.
These turned out GREAT! I can't wait to paint alongside y'all this month :)
Those huge figures look awesome with the colorful paint jobs! 😀
I painted one of the artist-proof Intercessors and while I'm very happy with how it came out in the end, the paint being sticky and coming off on my fingers was also an issue for me. fortunately all he does is sit on a shelf.
Terminator looks great in that strong blue, but imagine it would hurt my eyes if I was playing an army in that colour. Great work as always!
Cerberus never stops painting gold.
We need a Pacific Rim type skirmish game! Kaiju space marines vs big monsters and mechs!
Oh i popped my frist one aparts so i could properly vanish the parts.
Issues with primer making plastic sticky is very common with softer plastics! Reaper Bones are well known for having this issue, so I always use brush-on primer. Some people claim it's the propellant in spray cans, but I'm not sure.
It is a chemical reaction between the propellant and the PVC that Reaper uses in their original Bones and Bones Black lines.
I've dealt with that tacky situation before on the first run of the Reaper Bones miniatures, I ended up fixing it by giving the area a dry brush with black craft paint, got rid of the tackiness completely
good to know, ty! :-)
We watch for the kitter. The painting and soothing voice, quirky humor are secondary benefits.
they could wander into the video at any moment! :-)
Awesome stuff as always, Brent! :D
I've always been a big action figure fan, and this is a good way to check how others paint these figures. I have a decent collection and hearing how the figures have progressed is important to me as a collector, I hope get some Eldar and tau figures, maybe even some Seraphon action figures down the line!
anyway, I'm on the fence on if I want to get any more marines, but the terminator is on my list of potentials.
rambling along just to say you did a nice job on your "first?" take on action figure painting and some good things to watch out for with the line going forward :)
Ooh i have seen some if the McFarlane figures but was intimidated . I definitely think im gonna have a go now ... Altho i may just use my normal primer through the airbrush as that tackiness would be difficult to manage if ur holding the figuree
nice! Yeah you shouldn't have the tackiness problems with airbrush primer, have fun with it! (adhession of the primer to the plastic is a different story though, let me know how it turns out!) 🙂
Regarding the handling while painting problem, you could try the trick used in lapidary called dop sticks. It’s just a dowel rod with dop wax on the end. It’s super strong and when you’re done you just detach the dop wax seal with a knife. Note, I haven’t actually tried this with painting of action figures but I have in other applications and it works great. 👍
Shading and highlighting is still important with action figures its just not that cost effective, the more something is painted the more it cost to make so a ton go light on paint but if lucky it will have a wash or drybrush atleast.
Great content as always from the mayor of Goobertown. I was wondering what paint brand and series you used to prime the action figures?
I used the dregs from an old can of rustoleum and an old can of "armory" black primer... I don't think there was anything unique about either of those cans, probably I just let too much solvent sit on the plastic for too long. Indoors I did some spot-priming with my airbrush using some stynylrez.
Thanks for the reply! I was curious because I’ve tried to prime with the what I believed to be the same black rustolium on some wildspire DnD minis and ran into the exact same tacky issue you did. I managed to remedy the tacky finish with a quick 30 second soak in 99% isopropyl and left to dry again. I’ve also have not been able to achieve the same level of finish as you did on the non tacky sections which inspired me to go and give that can another try on something else and perhaps with better results.
If I ever have to paint to ICC rules, I always go with 3 shades of passive aggressive grey. Cheers.
would love to see you paint a larger statue
someday, someday :-)
Nice job! Wonder if one of those primers meant for plastic lawn type furniture would work?
I'm gonna need to take a deep dive into the plastic lawnchair hobby community to learn more! :-)
Too cool! Cheers!
This video got me worried. The sticky plastic issue and the scratched paint from moving part is really ennoying. I would love to try the Terminator, but if that mean I can't touch him without scratching paint it would be so frustrating :/
yeah... there are other types of paint that you can try, but the durability of my normal paints was a bit frustrating
It’s one of those hairy orange tyrannids. I’m surprised your space marines didn’t attack it.
They have a Terminator??? Whaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat?
indeed!
Did I catch a "walker, Texas ranger" reference? Vexing, if it wasn't or if I am mistaking it for a different reference.
Commodus from gladiator was in my mind... but if it's also a WTR reference that'd be even better! :-)
Good job 👍🏻
Congrats with the 250.000 subs!! 😮
Well deserved!
Those would be good for stop-motion segments in future videos. :)
There's an idea!:-)
The Tackiness is a reaction of enamel with PVC similar reaction happens with Reaper Bones Miniatures. If you must prime use an acrylic primer or Vallejo Mecha Primer and let cure for 24 hours for durability and so it won’t rub off.
For action figures you want to use paints similar to those Gunpla modelers use. Because Gundam models are posable the paints made for these are more durable. Tamyia paints, Mr. Color and Vallejo Mecha colors are very durable once cured.
Or you can use your regular acrylics and use a strong clear acrylic clear coat. I prefer Vallejo Mecha Satin.
Good job wearing ear pro when using spray primer ⚠️
Tacky miniature after painting? Welcome to the world of Reaper Bones!
hehehe, I still haven't tried those, but someday I may! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies they have some great sculpts. But, Bones and Bones USA can have the spray can reaction so saw with the Terminator (it is a pvc-based plastic, I think). So, Reaper specifically saya don't use spray can/rattle can paints on them. That tacky effect on the Bones/Bones USA line never stops and usually melts the whole thing eventually (think lead oxidation on the old Ral Partha metal minis)
Army Painter (maybe other companies too?) has special primer, which is safe for terrain-foam. I am guesskng that it has a different solvent? Maybe this primer would not make the plastic sticky?
Great point! I actually have a few bottles of that which I haven't tried yet...
@@GoobertownHobbies I am looking forward to the follow-up video where you try all the great suggestions you got in the comments here. Or do something else which exites you, it doesn’t really matter. Love the „we‘ll see how it goes and make the best of it“-spirit of you and your videos. Keep em coming, please! ☺️
I've been working on painting one of the artists version myself and had the same problem with the 'fabric' plastic on the Adepta Sororitas BattleSister one. I Still had fun trying it out
Well, at least we're not alone with this issue... it's still fun though! 🙂
Brent do you have a video where you talk and rare different air brushes? I tried looking for couldn't find one. If you don't I would love to hear what you have to say about them!
This was interesting! I don't think I know any painting techniques that work on such large scale figures. I know, airbrush -- but I never managed to become friends with my airbrush. As for the figures themselves: I know it's irrational, but such large scale triggers in me a reaction of "this is a toy for kids!" (and bear in mind, I never collected anything larger than He-Man figures as a kid). I know it's irrational, because "proper" miniatures are toys too (for adults?), but I cannot help it. I see large action figures and my brain dismisses them as toys. At least I managed to trick my mind into believing LEGO bricks are for grownups! ;)
Oh, they're definitely toys! The company that produces them is "McFarlane Toys" :-) miniatures feel more grown-up and cool hehehehe
One of my favorite quotes ever is "When I became a man I put away childish things, including the fear of childishness and the desire to be very grown up." - C. S. Lewis.
I collect Transformers and take them into the office with me. People will some times talk about them and dance around calling them a toy (using action figure or collectable or something) and I just say, "No they're toys". I like what I like and am mature enough to not let what someone think of me dissuade me from enjoying them. And no one has ever reacted negatively or judgmentally like the anxiety claims they will. Don't be afraid to like something because of how someone might react.
@@Ryoku1 that's a good quote. To be clear, I'm not casting judgment, and as for fear -- people outside our hobby consider miniatures to be toys, so I'm lost to them either way. It's definitely not fear. It's a part of my mind that, past a certain scale, makes me think "toy" rather than "hobby model" (there's something about McFarlane figures that makes this even more pronounced, somehow); I cannot explain it, but it makes me think "Barbie dolls" rather than "scifi hobby things". I don't claim this is rational, and again I want to make this clear: I'm not judging! I play games with tiny toy soldiers, who am I to judge?
I've painted a few of these.
These are vynil figures. Varnish hates it. It will inevitably become tacky.
Instead, use acrilic base. Its transparent, and coats propperly. You can coat trough an airbruah, or paint it over in a water diluted state.
Also, being vynil action figures, its best you pop out all the pieces from their joints before the paintjob. They have high flexibility, but be careful with the hips amd leg joints. Popping those legs out is tricky.
Knee joins rub off easy, and so do elbow joints, so use a lot of blackwash to coat it in thin layers. That way, the odds of acrylic buildup is low.
Hmm, now I really want to find an old Fabius Bile model and paint up my own Fabulous Bile ;)
After seeing Rogue Hobbies talk about going from warhammer to gunpla and seeing somone paint the blank McFarlane figures i wonder if a bandai Warhammer model kit series would be viable?
Thanks for the video! That's a lot of paint for one figure! 🥸I wonder if you could make a painting handle for that out of a bar stool?
I feel like I need one of those stupid banana hangers that people have in their kitchens 😆
@@GoobertownHobbies On advice of counsel or your physician?😁
Cool video. I never considered painting any figures that large.
Missed seeing you at Huzzah
Good save there with the Forbidden Kompot.
cats love paint water, always have, always will :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies I too have two very inquisitive furry individuals assisting me in my painting attempts - I very quickly learned to use only jars with narrow openings for my water. Also: to avoid putting my own drinking cups anywhere near the painting water. The Forbidden Kompot poses risk not only for the curious, but also for the absent-minded...
I've been customizing figures for almost 20 years and I haven't exactly mastered painting these things yet. The paint rub around joints often requires prep work like sanding the points of contact away. Sanding these things is more cumbersome than painting them, btw. Otherwise, it helps to wash the figures with warm, soapy water to remove the mold release prior to painting if you haven't done that.
As a chemist, I was hoping you could explain the stickiness that vexes the hobby. Perhaps that's a video for another time! I've heard the hard torsos are PVC(and plumbing cement has worked on them) and the limbs are often ABS, but the manufacturers don't list the materials and they change their products so often that it's hard to say for sure. Either way, this is why most of us have to stick with acrylics and avoid the cans.
Oh! Duplicolor Vinyl and Fabric spray used to work as a primer, but I've still had issues with using regular sprays over that.
thanks for sharing your experience! Yeah... I really should have washed them first, and also I should have used a lighter-touch with my spray primer... live and learn! Someday I'll get to the bottom of this :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies No, thank you for all the hours of entertainment! And I look forward to hearing all about it when you do.
It's a vinyl mix on the hips panels. So use a vinyl. Primer. Most dolls people Use MSC aka Mr super clear. We look forward to your pride figurines every year :)
Oh also, as a chemist you would be a reputable source for me to check this with, but does scraping off mould lines indoors create airborne plastic particles? Just checking regarding lung health and if I should do that outside instead.
I'm not worried about scraping, but be wary of powersanding! :-)
Still technically minis
indeed! :-)
Hey Mr.Goobertown I got a fun video idea for you sir. What, if any, are the benefits to different brush fibers? For example the "artify" drybrush kit versus more expensive options such as Artis Opus dry brushes? Ive heard better uplift and all this stuff but would love to see a scientific approach to the subject.
Thanks for all the great videos!
Reaper Bones (not Bones USA, but original Bones and Bones Black) are PVC-based and have issues going tacky with aerosol sprays. They say that it's a chemical reaction between something in the propellant and the PVC. It will not stop no matter how much it is covered, though some have said leaving it in baking soda has neutralized it. I have some Bones figures sprayed over 5 years ago that are still tacky. Reaper does not recommend the use of any rattle can on their PVC-based Bones figures, even if people have anecdotally had success (the propellant chemicals likely dissipated enough prior to hitting the model). Since those pieces are flexible, I'd hazard a reasonable guess that a similar thing happened here. They probably have PVC in those pieces.
I've definitely had problems with spray paint and the softer plastics, especially reaper bones.
These would benefit from some gunpla tools and techniques. Those folks use a panel lining paint that has incredibly low surface tension and would be great for blacklining these.
Yes, Fabulous Marines! Thanks for raising awareness of this, and your rainbow designs are amazing as always!
I'm happy I play the orks. Because I can get away with a sneaky pride flag on a vehicles panel.
*Reaper flashbacks*
Apart from the sticky tacky chaos, we always appreciate a good fabulous pride video from you wait that came out wrong
But also, I am going to finally go throw out that tacky zenithal primes Reaper mini I've had sitting around on my desk for years now, because I can't bring myself to touch that sticky mess and try to paint it. 😅🎉
hehehehehehe
awesome.
Easton gretzky painting rig 😂
Have you compared it to the Warrior painting rigs? Mounted any on a jofa display helmet?
You are such a nice guy! I love your work, keep it up mate!
Great work. Keep it up. Different and positive.
Well done for highlighting the Fabulous Marines project. It was also nice to see the people at White Dwarf doing their part to highlight the event. The more inclusive we can all be, the better. It was sad to see that parts of those action figures melted (especially as they seem to be designed to be painted?!) Perhaps you could suggest to them a warning label on the box. Anyway, they still came out looking fabulous, so well done!
I would imagine that one way to tackle the issue of the model moving around and scraping paint etc. would be to pick a pose and glue it in place, sure it completely removes the intent of it being an action figure but for me personally the appeal is simply that it's effectively a larger scale model I would get to pose myself. The loss of movement would not be a negative for me.
I mean, It's essentially what I do with titans, knights and various tank models etc. No need for them to be moveable when I can fix them in place and get a better paint job as a result.
Yup, that's definitely a smart approach!
1:00 - Bro! Put a mask and goggles on! Always!
6:30 - Bro! Put a mask and goggles on! Always! Sunnies work I guess. 😉
classic, total classic 🙂
@@GoobertownHobbies Haha! Maybe it's the primers I use - for cars - so I wear a full mask and respirator or the particles will go in my eyes and face. Hey, you're a chemist Brent - is there actually a danger from using these sprays without proper protection?
@@benmiles00 particles are never good for the lungs, and neither is huffing organic solvents... both risks are massively reduced by working in the open air rather than an enclosed space. Realistically I prime outdoors like ~5 times per year for 5 minutes each time, so I'm not super concerned. If I were one of those street artists making planets and nebula pictures with spraypaint for 6 hours per day I'd definitely wear a mask. You're not wrong that protection is always wise, though! :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies Ah yes. A fair point regarding street painters. Yeah I don't do that much either but I set up a special spray shelter to reduce any overspray. I have a decent full face mask so I always wear it. I did notice there is very little scent in a GW or Vallejo can compared to the car spray cans. Thanks Sensei. 👍🏻🙏🏻
Awesome video, sucks to see how many fragile idiots there are in the comments, but they’re just embarrassing themselves at the end of the day. Looking forward to seeing what you do next year!
They look really good. I've painted a couple of these action figures too. I used a multi-primer from the DIY store that's designed to work on all kinds of plastics that don't take regular primer so well. It didn't cause any stickiness.
good to know! I'm glad that worked for you :-)
My favorite time of hobby year is Brent does Pridemarines time.
Happy Pride! 🙂
@@GoobertownHobbies And to you 🥰🏳️🌈🏳️⚧️🥰. oh and look up RealXman, musician... so catchy
@@GoobertownHobbies and to you and yours 🥰🏳️⚧️🏳️🌈🥰. Love will win.
Fabulous Marines was how I found your channel, fell in love with your chill aesthetic with deep technical skills, and eventually has seen me return to the hobby after previously collecting & playing second edition. Thank you so much for all you and the rest of the FM group do to promote an inclusive hobby space
awww, I'm glad you're back in the hobby!! :-)
gundam models might be a happy medium. you can build them take them apart and then paint small or big parts as you like.
I'm very tempted, I think gundam is definitely gonna happen for me someday... :-)
@@GoobertownHobbies pretty cost effective but you definitely have to varnish it so it does not scratch the paint
@@GoobertownHobbies I've had good luck with Spaz Stix for Gundams. Its meant for RC car bodies. Bonds well, no stickiness, and they have some cool effect paints too.
Wow the amount of hate is disgusting and pathetic. Literally clicking on a video just to complain.
Must be a sad sad existence.
Youre great goobs, keep it up ❤
The internet is a heck of a place ;-)
People don't like seeing a beloved IP corrupted by real-life social issues. Instead of trying to change the idea, it's always attacks on those holding the ideas. The saddest part of the existence is we actually reached a point where the degenerates are lauded and those who disagree are the bad guys.
Great video! Just sad to see the haters already conquered the comments. Cool project, your content is awesome and I love to see that we are a great community for everyone.
Thanks! Hey, the internet is gonna do what the internet does, but thanks for hanging out 🙂
"Community for certain groups" Fixed that for you.
Hell yeah fabulous marines!
I've used your videos for reference as I learn the different tools, materials, and techniques of miniature painting, but this video got me to finally subscribe.
I never got very far into Warhammer because of the few people who seemed a little _too_ into the political side of "the grim darkness of the far future" you know? If hate's welcome here, clearly I'm not. Thanks for using your platform to push back against that.
🎉🏳️🌈🎉
Looking fabulous