Support my channel and future projects: www.ko-fi.com/... Files for Nick.CNC Mid Motor Conversion for Traxxas 2wd Vehicles: www.printables... Link to 5/31/24 Q1 Race at Pit Stop Hobbies: • 2wd Buggy - Qualifier #1
Threaded brass heat set M3 and M4 inserts can remedy some of your fastener woes, both in printed plastic parts and oem parts. I designed a mid motor standup gear both for a mid rustler. I put ears on the transcase like the old rpm version. The front arm mount holes have brass inserts with a short screw. The rear arm mount holes are close clearance drilled and a long screw passes through to the trans case ear which has a threaded insert. This locks the case and the arm mounts together. My trans case has a feature like the nitro rustler trans that locks into a nitro rear bulk for camber link mounts, also modified with threaded inserts to help pull everything together.
I love what you have done! Even more now that you made it public, that is beyond cool! There seems to be lots of upgrades you could do with your mm bandit like front roll bar, carbon top deck, aluminum hubs with a few holes for tuning, ti links, etc. which front a-arms are those? Almost look like protrac. I have a few modded bandits if you would like to see. I don’t have a printer, but if I ever do I would love to try building those parts. Way to go and thank you for sharing again. Synnergy
Thanks for the kind words! The front a-arms are the Traxxas HD arms for the Bandit. They're supposed to be tougher, but I have them because they let me use the aluminum caster blocks I had from my Traxxas trucks.
I have a question about the carbon fiber parts. what is your process of making them and how difficult would it be. If you could link a guide that would be awesome.
For the rear camber link block, what kind or screws are you using to attach it to the transmission? If you’re not using a countersunk screw I would switch to that, the tapered head is basically a self-centering locator
They're long countersunk screws that screw in from underneath the chassis. I thought that would be enough to keep things in place but there's just enough wiggle in the fit to cause issues.
Ok I see now, maybe short term fix you could sandwich some double sided tape between the block and chassis for a little extra lateral strength? Was also wonder how you cut out the shock towers, I have a work in progress 1/10 F1 that needs some carbon cut but I’m not sure if I should invest in a small CNC or just use something like SendCutSend
@@tomahawkgt3505 tape would help, but I constantly tune with those blocks so it's not really a viable solution. I have my own CNC I built a while back and that's how I cut my CF parts. Sendcutsend is really competitively priced for aluminum parts, but they are prohibitively expensive for composites. I get it, though, composite dust is nasty and you need the right gear to deal with it. I don't have that great which is why I'm not making parts to sell.
Threaded brass heat set M3 and M4 inserts can remedy some of your fastener woes, both in printed plastic parts and oem parts. I designed a mid motor standup gear both for a mid rustler. I put ears on the transcase like the old rpm version. The front arm mount holes have brass inserts with a short screw. The rear arm mount holes are close clearance drilled and a long screw passes through to the trans case ear which has a threaded insert. This locks the case and the arm mounts together. My trans case has a feature like the nitro rustler trans that locks into a nitro rear bulk for camber link mounts, also modified with threaded inserts to help pull everything together.
I love what you have done! Even more now that you made it public, that is beyond cool! There seems to be lots of upgrades you could do with your mm bandit like front roll bar, carbon top deck, aluminum hubs with a few holes for tuning, ti links, etc. which front a-arms are those? Almost look like protrac. I have a few modded bandits if you would like to see. I don’t have a printer, but if I ever do I would love to try building those parts. Way to go and thank you for sharing again. Synnergy
Thanks for the kind words!
The front a-arms are the Traxxas HD arms for the Bandit. They're supposed to be tougher, but I have them because they let me use the aluminum caster blocks I had from my Traxxas trucks.
Nice work! and plans for free is pretty righteous👍. I have had my bandit since 2009. It’s still kickin butt lol.
I have a question about the carbon fiber parts. what is your process of making them and how difficult would it be. If you could link a guide that would be awesome.
@@JosephPerito I use the CAM features in fusion 360 to create the tool paths and gcode, then run that on my CNC router.
Care to do a swap on a fairly new Bandit?
For the rear camber link block, what kind or screws are you using to attach it to the transmission? If you’re not using a countersunk screw I would switch to that, the tapered head is basically a self-centering locator
They're long countersunk screws that screw in from underneath the chassis. I thought that would be enough to keep things in place but there's just enough wiggle in the fit to cause issues.
Ok I see now, maybe short term fix you could sandwich some double sided tape between the block and chassis for a little extra lateral strength?
Was also wonder how you cut out the shock towers, I have a work in progress 1/10 F1 that needs some carbon cut but I’m not sure if I should invest in a small CNC or just use something like SendCutSend
@@tomahawkgt3505 tape would help, but I constantly tune with those blocks so it's not really a viable solution.
I have my own CNC I built a while back and that's how I cut my CF parts. Sendcutsend is really competitively priced for aluminum parts, but they are prohibitively expensive for composites. I get it, though, composite dust is nasty and you need the right gear to deal with it. I don't have that great which is why I'm not making parts to sell.