I like how despite having a cab-forward body, it looks like a mid-cab body due to the rearward mounting offset of it. Also, that body isn't as extreme as most current bodies with the windshield steepness or cab top slope, so it doesn't look nearly as offensive compared to what a *buggy* "should" look like. I didn't even know there would be a problem with the angles like that. But yeah, anti-squat is important-ish depending on how bad yours is. What you want to avoid at all costs is having PRO-squat, which is when the angles involved actually cause it to squat more than "all the way" instead of being neutral or resisting the squat. If you ask me, I'd find out what the angle is, compare it to the RPM trans, and then whichever one is bigger, I'd make a spacer wedge that will let you tilt it that much in the other direction. IE if it's 5-deg, you'd make a 10-deg wedge to get it past level and into anti-territory. And if the stock trans is 4-deg and the RPM is 6, obv base your wedge off of whichever one gives you MORE of that angle. Too much can be detrimental in its own way, but as long as you're close to stock-ish parameters +/- like... 25% or so, you should be golden.
A very interesting project. With the pro squat you have, I'm impressed it works so well. I use Kyosho diff grease in the standard gear diff. The grease is available in differing viscosities and gives you the option for tuning. Hope this helps.
Can you drill a hole in the other side of the case and run the input shaft on the other side, then you will not have to run the motor in reverse. Then you would have cut away all the original motor mount and have devise a new way to mount the motor. Just a thought. Keep up the good content.
Check out hot racing composite gearbox... The squat blocks swap sides much easer than rpm... Rpms are toe in specific, and will give you toe out when you flip the trans. They dont work upside down. Hot Racing alum trans is different than their composite trans.
Hey bud. Use bad horsie diff lube in that rig i swear by it its like bajeezes in a container. Super thick and consistant in the diff department not many know about it but its money in a traxxas stock diff. Your welcome.
For the next upgrade, if you can make it work, Integy makes an aluminum chassis for the Bandit. Not sure how good it is durability-wise but at the very least it'll help get the center of mass down. After I do my Tamiya Dual Ridge build I might try using it as the basis for a "Traxxas gets none of the money" Rustler build. As for the Yokomo looking just like the B6, Yokomo and Associated have a lot of history with that, it goes back as far as the RC1. Yokomo was the original Japanese distributor for Associated, and soon after that they started making their own semi-clone kits based on Associated models but with small adjustments to improve the vehicle's handling characteristics. This continued even after Yokomo lost Associated to Thunder Tiger.
@catseye8926 That's a negative on the Exotek recommendation. Exotek doesn't make an aluminum chassis, nor do they make a direct drop-in replacement chassis for the bandit that isn't a no-prep drag conversion kit. Not saying that it's not a good kit, just not fit for this application. There's a reason why modern racing kits moved away from plastic or fiber chassis and towards aluminum plates chassis. Motors are powerful enough now that the extra weight doesn't matter as much, and getting that weight as far down as possible matters more than reducing it outright. Is there something specifically wrong with the chassis Integy makes or is it just the company's practices? Because if it's the latter, well... I hope you haven't recently bought any Traxxas vehicles, because Traxxas is as bad as they get in terms of how they conduct business - literally the definition of "why innovate when you can litigate?".
@catseye8926 Bit of an addendum, I looked it up, Integy uses 6061-T6 Aluminum, which is softer than the 7075-T6 used on most racing kit chassis. However, it's the same stuff used on many 1/8th scale RTRs. So, if Integy's aluminum is shit, so is ARRMA's, Traxxas's, Kyosho's, Losi's, HPI's, etc. However, what I saw when I looked it up is that, unlike with vehicles that come _stock_ with a 6061-T6 plate chassis, people buying an aftermarket chassis from Integy are doing so with the expectation that sticking a metal chassis on their car will make it unbreakable, and then throwing the damn thing around a skatepark or other extreme bashing environment or in some cases even intentionally doing heavy durability tests. Another thing I'm seeing is that many of the complaints are about things like aluminum A-arms and other crash-vulnerable parts. In those cases, aluminum IN GENERAL is a downgrade and people who buy aluminum suspension arms are idiots, regardless of who they get them from.
Now I’m trying to do the exact same thing but just on a rustler and racing on carpet. I was traction rolling so I dropped the ride hight tell I got it not to roll. So I thought you could raise yours to give you traction. idk it worked perfect for carpet. Idk if that would work for you on dirt because I have never raced on dirt.
Why can't you just shim it to add anti-squat? you could just add a harder spring in the rear - this will make the grip more consistent (but it could be consistently bad). pro-squat is usally just consistently bad unless the track has a ton of grip. Also, if you keep your speed up in the turn (run the high line), you could get away with a high roll center (which will act like anti-squat but only work in the turns and only on the outside tire).
what material did you use on the shock towers? this could give me new meaning to my old vxl bandit that ive always despised. have the machinery and capability of hacking it up properly just would be nice to have a starting point as far as geometry ill figure it out.
"2WD 17.5 is the best class" Only if you like to wallet dump. It's the hardest and most expensive class to get set up for, vs mod which doesn't necessitate all the driveline hopups, or Stadium Truck which is set-and-forget on a larger variety of surfaces.
@s Fair, and I've used your project as an example of how you can make a lower-end car perform well enough to compete in the past. But the money you're saving is offset by the amount of effort you're putting into the car and the use of tools that aren't necessarily available to everyone. That's not an issue for people like us, but your average Joe's not going to be able to do all of this custom fab work. Even then it's kinda hard to get around all the driveline work.
So I have a rebuilt b4.2 is a hobbywing xr10 just stock g3 17.5 motor esc combo a good motor to start with in the two wheel drive class I have a new rb10 also but so far that car doesn’t impress me been watching your vids figured you would be a good person to ask
The RB10 can be a decent platform but it needs a lot of setup work out of the box. Apparently the rear springs are too short and the suspension's way too soft. Fixable but Associated should know better than to release a car in that state. The B4.2 is going to be solid on dirt. On higher-traction surfaces like sealed clay or carpet, though, it's going to struggle against more modern buggies.
Didn't look too bad out there. I can not wait to see what you're brewing up for the next project. I love this kind of engineering. Keep em comming.
Agree ive watched last years modded traxxas racing videos numerous times 💯
I like how despite having a cab-forward body, it looks like a mid-cab body due to the rearward mounting offset of it. Also, that body isn't as extreme as most current bodies with the windshield steepness or cab top slope, so it doesn't look nearly as offensive compared to what a *buggy* "should" look like.
I didn't even know there would be a problem with the angles like that. But yeah, anti-squat is important-ish depending on how bad yours is. What you want to avoid at all costs is having PRO-squat, which is when the angles involved actually cause it to squat more than "all the way" instead of being neutral or resisting the squat.
If you ask me, I'd find out what the angle is, compare it to the RPM trans, and then whichever one is bigger, I'd make a spacer wedge that will let you tilt it that much in the other direction. IE if it's 5-deg, you'd make a 10-deg wedge to get it past level and into anti-territory. And if the stock trans is 4-deg and the RPM is 6, obv base your wedge off of whichever one gives you MORE of that angle. Too much can be detrimental in its own way, but as long as you're close to stock-ish parameters +/- like... 25% or so, you should be golden.
Dude. The RPM transmission is and will be a game changer
You got the RPM trans case, awesome. That should make things go smoothier.
I'd buy a Bandit if they made it mid-motor. Thing rips!
A very interesting project. With the pro squat you have, I'm impressed it works so well. I use Kyosho diff grease in the standard gear diff. The grease is available in differing viscosities and gives you the option for tuning. Hope this helps.
I really like the way you braced the front of the rear tower. Newer pro Traxxas gearboxes have a sealed gear diff...
Can you drill a hole in the other side of the case and run the input shaft on the other side, then you will not have to run the motor in reverse. Then you would have cut away all the original motor mount and have devise a new way to mount the motor. Just a thought. Keep up the good content.
Check out hot racing composite gearbox... The squat blocks swap sides much easer than rpm... Rpms are toe in specific, and will give you toe out when you flip the trans. They dont work upside down. Hot Racing alum trans is different than their composite trans.
The shocks are better on the yokomo (tighter tolerances during manufacturing) they stay more consistent throughout a run.
I thought the rear engine, the way it’s designed, drove better. But I’m a rear engine kinda guy. 😂
That was awesome....can't wait to see whats next....😎👍
Man, what could you be up to next? My vote is Tamiya. You already have Kyosho, Traxxas, TLR, and Associated.
We use the RPM trans case. It has floating pin tabs that are separate from the case so they don't get turned around and the antisquat stays the same.
Well now I see you did get one lol
where just about to say the same that the anti squat is now pro squat and the car gets slipperyer then a bar of soap.
So I should get the rpm case due to the a arm mounting ? (Never done a conversion like this)
I like it!! keep it up man you'll get it dialed in!!
If you lose 2 of the gears in the diff that will help traction issues and opens the diff up and use 3 in 1 oil
I bet that angle changes the handling alot… for the good… i’m not even sure that ANY cars even have doing that as a setup option…
Hey bud. Use bad horsie diff lube in that rig i swear by it its like bajeezes in a container. Super thick and consistant in the diff department not many know about it but its money in a traxxas stock diff. Your welcome.
Do it!
For the next upgrade, if you can make it work, Integy makes an aluminum chassis for the Bandit. Not sure how good it is durability-wise but at the very least it'll help get the center of mass down. After I do my Tamiya Dual Ridge build I might try using it as the basis for a "Traxxas gets none of the money" Rustler build.
As for the Yokomo looking just like the B6, Yokomo and Associated have a lot of history with that, it goes back as far as the RC1. Yokomo was the original Japanese distributor for Associated, and soon after that they started making their own semi-clone kits based on Associated models but with small adjustments to improve the vehicle's handling characteristics. This continued even after Yokomo lost Associated to Thunder Tiger.
@catseye8926
That's a negative on the Exotek recommendation. Exotek doesn't make an aluminum chassis, nor do they make a direct drop-in replacement chassis for the bandit that isn't a no-prep drag conversion kit. Not saying that it's not a good kit, just not fit for this application. There's a reason why modern racing kits moved away from plastic or fiber chassis and towards aluminum plates chassis. Motors are powerful enough now that the extra weight doesn't matter as much, and getting that weight as far down as possible matters more than reducing it outright.
Is there something specifically wrong with the chassis Integy makes or is it just the company's practices? Because if it's the latter, well... I hope you haven't recently bought any Traxxas vehicles, because Traxxas is as bad as they get in terms of how they conduct business - literally the definition of "why innovate when you can litigate?".
@catseye8926
Bit of an addendum, I looked it up, Integy uses 6061-T6 Aluminum, which is softer than the 7075-T6 used on most racing kit chassis. However, it's the same stuff used on many 1/8th scale RTRs. So, if Integy's aluminum is shit, so is ARRMA's, Traxxas's, Kyosho's, Losi's, HPI's, etc.
However, what I saw when I looked it up is that, unlike with vehicles that come _stock_ with a 6061-T6 plate chassis, people buying an aftermarket chassis from Integy are doing so with the expectation that sticking a metal chassis on their car will make it unbreakable, and then throwing the damn thing around a skatepark or other extreme bashing environment or in some cases even intentionally doing heavy durability tests. Another thing I'm seeing is that many of the complaints are about things like aluminum A-arms and other crash-vulnerable parts. In those cases, aluminum IN GENERAL is a downgrade and people who buy aluminum suspension arms are idiots, regardless of who they get them from.
@catseye8926
LOL @ calling someone a nerd in the comments section for an RC video. This is a tech hobby, we're all nerds here.
cool project. wonder if you could install longer arms?
Drag slash has a sealed diff. They’re 50 beans though.
Bro you have awesome videos very funny stuff
Thank you
Any chance once you get everything dialed in you will be selling kits to do mid-motor conversions for the bandit? Because if so I'm interested!
I believe (if you can find them) that gen1 4tec rear carrier bearings give another 1.5 (4.5*) of toe compared to the stock 3*
Bearing carrier**
Pretty dam cool 😎🦾🦾🍻🍻
Now I’m trying to do the exact same thing but just on a rustler and racing on carpet. I was traction rolling so I dropped the ride hight tell I got it not to roll. So I thought you could raise yours to give you traction. idk it worked perfect for carpet. Idk if that would work for you on dirt because I have never raced on dirt.
I picked up a rustler vxl that Im converting to a Bandit to be able to go run at the track lol
Why didn't you just get a Bandit to start?
Traxxas makes a ball diff- Part# 4620
You don’t see your mistake again do you. Turn the instructions upside down
I had commentEd about the anti squat and suggested the rpm gear case. I sent message
exotek angled fan mount should be better for the fan
Why can't you just shim it to add anti-squat?
you could just add a harder spring in the rear - this will make the grip more consistent (but it could be consistently bad). pro-squat is usally just consistently bad unless the track has a ton of grip.
Also, if you keep your speed up in the turn (run the high line), you could get away with a high roll center (which will act like anti-squat but only work in the turns and only on the outside tire).
what material did you use on the shock towers? this could give me new meaning to my old vxl bandit that ive always despised. have the machinery and capability of hacking it up properly just would be nice to have a starting point as far as geometry ill figure it out.
$8 cutting board from dollar general
love it, thank you my guess was a fishing chum board @@mxacres
Could you just flip the ball diff around to keep it from coming loose?
What body are you using for the mm bandit?
Red white and blue body is the new b7 body
What fan mount are you using for the rear motor bandit
It’s a b74.1 fan mount
Do you have a stock transmission or is it a proline one
"2WD 17.5 is the best class"
Only if you like to wallet dump. It's the hardest and most expensive class to get set up for, vs mod which doesn't necessitate all the driveline hopups, or Stadium Truck which is set-and-forget on a larger variety of surfaces.
It doesn’t have to be expensive. I am racing a bandit with homemade parts after all.
@s
Fair, and I've used your project as an example of how you can make a lower-end car perform well enough to compete in the past. But the money you're saving is offset by the amount of effort you're putting into the car and the use of tools that aren't necessarily available to everyone. That's not an issue for people like us, but your average Joe's not going to be able to do all of this custom fab work. Even then it's kinda hard to get around all the driveline work.
where do you race i want to race you in my 4s outcast custom
Everywhere
So I have a rebuilt b4.2 is a hobbywing xr10 just stock g3 17.5 motor esc combo a good motor to start with in the two wheel drive class I have a new rb10 also but so far that car doesn’t impress me been watching your vids figured you would be a good person to ask
The RB10 can be a decent platform but it needs a lot of setup work out of the box. Apparently the rear springs are too short and the suspension's way too soft. Fixable but Associated should know better than to release a car in that state.
The B4.2 is going to be solid on dirt. On higher-traction surfaces like sealed clay or carpet, though, it's going to struggle against more modern buggies.
Both are good contenders. Just get some track time and talk to some local racers to help you get dialed in