While it may look good in the beginning, it won't last long. The dye will start to wear off quickly, especially if you wear jeans regularly. Unless you are planning to sell the car, I highly recommend getting it rewrapped for a long term solution.
If the repair is done correctly, it does last for quite long time, there are fer factors in durability like the quality of paint, how the process is done, maintenance after. In the case of poor quality job and products you are 100% right, it won't last, but if everything is done correctly correctly with a good quality paints, the repair will last for a few years, even in a daily used car.
Good job John Ive re-dyed severel interiors, its best to get a small spray gun its a lot quicker & lays the dye better. I did the interior on my E30 over 2 years ago & it still looks fantastic, you must finish with a sealant & add a crosslinker which really gives a hard wearing finish. P.S it takes 2 minutes to remove the plastic recliner knobs, faster than taping them up.
Just done this to 30yo golf recaro’s with Geist, started with an airbrush! ok for prime/paint but top coat finish was terrible drying dusty so borrowed a compressor and spray gun with amazing results and so much faster
Jon with airbrushing the old addage 'clenliness is next to godliness'. In my youth I used to spray my Airfix models all the time. The medium you are spraying should have the consistancy a little thicker than milk! That may seem a bit thin but building up layers is the way to go. Regarding cleaning your airbrush, when you finish a coat I would empty any spare medium and then flush thoroughly with whatever carrier or solvent is being used. You can then refill and spray another coat. When you completely finish, dismantle the airbrush and clean each part and reasemble ready for your next seat, or car paint touch up! Splatter or a funny spray pattern can be due to a bent needle tip, or an offset blockage in the nozzle. Basically anything that can disturb a smooth air flow out of the tip. If your air brush is a double action, push down air on, then pull back to feed in your medium, then reverse when you want to stop spraying. A tank in line between your compressor and the airbrush will smooth out any air pulses plus an air pressure regulator will allow you to control max air pressure. Lastly the choice of nozzle size and your needle adjustment will all effect the finish. Practice makes perfect! Great video as always
Good job, First time my two hobbies over lap, the air brush needle is probably two small or the paint is too thick. Also having a compressor with a tank makes it more consistent. I paint models so have a compressor. Also cleaning and lubricanting your air brush help, also the tip will splatter sometimes just press air out before you start to get that drip off tip.
Excellent video It looks like you would really have to remove the seats. Other than that it looks fairly easy. The seats look really good when you got done. What's the wear life after reconditioning.
John the only thing i could see that could be improved is never try to get a perfect finish in your 1st coat it should just be a dusting then build from there
Would love to get one of those Clarke mini wiz air compressors, such a shame they discontinued them 😕 Nice work & looks good, but looks a little tedious using the air brush, mini gun would have worked better 👍🏻
Yes your not wrong. I had to really mess around with it and change pins. But it still was not perfect. Need mini gun I think not sure if the mini compressor can power that though
Greetings from the States. I have been binge watching your channel. Really enjoying your videos. Have you tried the Bilt Hamber Dynax-s50 anti corrosion sprax wax coating? I have a 2023 Ford transit connect, and I was interested in coating the underside to prevent rust from forming on the frame and other bits. Couldn’t find much about it on TH-cam. Thanks Jim
One of the few videos about it . He doesn’t do much to avoid spraying on the exhaust lol, but i was interested in rust prevention on the underside of the car. Thanks again
99.9% of automotive leathers are „painted“! This means that on the actual hide there are three layers applied: primer, base layer, top coat. However, there are huge differences between these layers used and applied by different tanneries. And there are even more severe differences between such leather repair kits. The Colourlock one for example feels comparably hard and not very pleasant.
Would be easier to get them re trimmed instead of painting them? Also why not have a small bottle attached to the spray gun, that way you will have the right amount of paint supply and also make sure there's a little hole in the bottle of paint ,so that the difference in pressure from the spray gun helps the paint release it from the bottle. Also always do a test section first so the paint matches up as well?\ Still mate well done you really have the OCD patience issues as well, lol, you know what i mean. anyone that takes their time in doing things right has a little OCD about themselves?🚗🚗🙌🙌👍👍👌👌😎😎
retrim. Easier for me yes as I wouldnt be doing it! but I think these seats were ideal for refinishing. I already had the paint sitting there so cost to do this was like zero. retrim would be a lot.
I've done BMW Light Silver Grey with no issues. Dab a couple of coats with a sponge first, then spray a few light coats. Always dry with a hair dryer in between coats, and always finish with good clear coat.
incorrect. that bolster is genuine top grain leather. sides are vinyl. remember the service is a processed painted finish. its not like BLACK leather its leather processed and painted black.
As John said, that‘s not correct! What you see below the black surface is the actual leather hide and what cracks is the additional layers (primer, base coat, top coat) which are applied on top of the leather‘s hide.
While it may look good in the beginning, it won't last long. The dye will start to wear off quickly, especially if you wear jeans regularly. Unless you are planning to sell the car, I highly recommend getting it rewrapped for a long term solution.
If the repair is done correctly, it does last for quite long time, there are fer factors in durability like the quality of paint, how the process is done, maintenance after. In the case of poor quality job and products you are 100% right, it won't last, but if everything is done correctly correctly with a good quality paints, the repair will last for a few years, even in a daily used car.
Needs to be sprayed with clear coat
Satin finish
Then it will last for years and years.
love the smile on your face while you are working. ...and the song was awesome!
Good job John
Ive re-dyed severel interiors, its best to get a small spray gun its a lot quicker & lays the dye better. I did the interior on my E30 over 2 years ago & it still looks fantastic, you must finish with a sealant & add a crosslinker which really gives a hard wearing finish. P.S it takes 2 minutes to remove the plastic recliner knobs, faster than taping them up.
Just done this to 30yo golf recaro’s with Geist, started with an airbrush! ok for prime/paint but top coat finish was terrible drying dusty so borrowed a compressor and spray gun with amazing results and so much faster
Jon with airbrushing the old addage 'clenliness is next to godliness'. In my youth I used to spray my Airfix models all the time. The medium you are spraying should have the consistancy a little thicker than milk! That may seem a bit thin but building up layers is the way to go. Regarding cleaning your airbrush, when you finish a coat I would empty any spare medium and then flush thoroughly with whatever carrier or solvent is being used. You can then refill and spray another coat. When you completely finish, dismantle the airbrush and clean each part and reasemble ready for your next seat, or car paint touch up!
Splatter or a funny spray pattern can be due to a bent needle tip, or an offset blockage in the nozzle. Basically anything that can disturb a smooth air flow out of the tip. If your air brush is a double action, push down air on, then pull back to feed in your medium, then reverse when you want to stop spraying. A tank in line between your compressor and the airbrush will smooth out any air pulses plus an air pressure regulator will allow you to control max air pressure. Lastly the choice of nozzle size and your needle adjustment will all effect the finish. Practice makes perfect! Great video as always
i think the paint was too thick for this airbrush, I had to call ram and get some tips and change the pins. prolly need a better gun.
Nice to see something a little different, thanks Jon. 😊. All the best 👍.
Brilliant video detailing master at work
Look forward to your next episode
Thank you
The Forensic Inspector knows the difference between vinyl and leather 👀👌. Your touching the material tells us Jon
Good job, First time my two hobbies over lap, the air brush needle is probably two small or the paint is too thick. Also having a compressor with a tank makes it more consistent. I paint models so have a compressor. Also cleaning and lubricanting your air brush help, also the tip will splatter sometimes just press air out before you start to get that drip off tip.
Came out really well John 👏👏👏
Excellent video
It looks like you would really have to remove the seats. Other than that it looks fairly easy. The seats look really good when you got done. What's the wear life after reconditioning.
hopefully good mate :) time will tell
John the only thing i could see that could be improved is never try to get a perfect finish in your 1st coat it should just be a dusting then build from there
Would love to get one of those Clarke mini wiz air compressors, such a shame they discontinued them 😕 Nice work & looks good, but looks a little tedious using the air brush, mini gun would have worked better 👍🏻
Nice work Jon
Do u have a link to the dye you used ? Ta
That airbrush will be designed for thinner paints and inks
Yes your not wrong. I had to really mess around with it and change pins. But it still was not perfect. Need mini gun I think not sure if the mini compressor can power that though
with all the different products on the market what is your go to polish for machine use on your car?
Ram watching like that..... 🙈🙈🙈🤣🤣🤣🤣
Great video there dude enjoyed that
Greetings from the States.
I have been binge watching your channel. Really enjoying your videos.
Have you tried the Bilt Hamber Dynax-s50 anti corrosion sprax wax coating? I have a 2023 Ford transit connect, and I was interested in coating the underside to prevent rust from forming on the frame and other bits. Couldn’t find much about it on TH-cam.
Thanks
Jim
Isn't it more cavity wax not sure m8?
One of the few videos about it . He doesn’t do much to avoid spraying on the exhaust lol, but i was interested in rust prevention on the underside of the car.
Thanks again
Great video. Maybe try small
spray gun
Good video Jon ❤
Good video, quick question, have you done a video on cleaning alcantara?
yes m8 you can search for this on the channel home page
Paint needs a thinner?
How does this change the “hand” or feel of the leather. I’d hate to do a similar process and have my leather seats feel like vinyl.
I think the sanding can help to get a smooth feeling finish.
your leather is already painted when you get it, so it won't feel any different.
99.9% of automotive leathers are „painted“! This means that on the actual hide there are three layers applied: primer, base layer, top coat.
However, there are huge differences between these layers used and applied by different tanneries.
And there are even more severe differences between such leather repair kits. The Colourlock one for example feels comparably hard and not very pleasant.
Would be easier to get them re trimmed instead of painting them?
Also why not have a small bottle attached to the spray gun, that way you will have the right amount of paint supply and also make sure there's a little hole in the bottle of paint ,so that the difference in pressure from the spray gun helps the paint release it from the bottle.
Also always do a test section first so the paint matches up as well?\
Still mate well done you really have the OCD patience issues as well, lol, you know what i mean. anyone that takes their time in doing things right has a little OCD about themselves?🚗🚗🙌🙌👍👍👌👌😎😎
retrim. Easier for me yes as I wouldnt be doing it! but I think these seats were ideal for refinishing. I already had the paint sitting there so cost to do this was like zero. retrim would be a lot.
Ebay special 😂
“Leather Seating Surfaces “ lol
What grit sandpaper was that Jon? 3000?
not sure mate but I think more corse than 3000 it felt.
@@ForensicDetailing 👍. Ok
It's more than likely the compressor can't keep up with the amount of air being used.
Different story with wornout cream leather!! Harder than it looks.
I've done BMW Light Silver Grey with no issues. Dab a couple of coats with a sponge first, then spray a few light coats. Always dry with a hair dryer in between coats, and always finish with good clear coat.
Unless you are a goth Jon… suggest gloves 👆👆🏿😂
The white could be sun screen. Stuff is impossible to get off. Thinking steam may do it
Never use steam on leather!
@@AndreasSchwarzinger huh?
@@motiOn732 steam destroys leather!
If the leather brakes up like a that its no real leather.
incorrect. that bolster is genuine top grain leather. sides are vinyl. remember the service is a processed painted finish. its not like BLACK leather its leather processed and painted black.
As John said, that‘s not correct! What you see below the black surface is the actual leather hide and what cracks is the additional layers (primer, base coat, top coat) which are applied on top of the leather‘s hide.
Leather noob. …. Still am a leather noob. Don’t make me laugh. Take care Jon. I’m more than a noob. I’m a monster around the stuff
What
Nice touch John…. You still got your M4CS🤔
yes m8
What was the music during the time lapse
Death of queen Jane
@@ForensicDetailing thank you
I know you what what you’re doing. You’re Inspector Clouseau 🥸👀. You follow the forensics 👍
"Chief" inspector Clouseau