Erratic shifting in 48re usually 1-2-1 or 2-3-2 is due to faulty solenoid. These solenoids commonly fail on multi used trucks. Ie, one day light throttle usage in city, next day hauling 15k load warranting heavy throttle application. These trashmissions were made to learn your driving without any PLC or proper programming. It was made to apply similar output and extend the life of the trans. There’s some really good solenoid kits I would recommend trying out the ATS GM 48re Solenoid Block Conversion Kit.
I just wanted to post up a quick review of this Noise Isolator. I had my local shop here in Mebane, NC install this on my 98.5 24v 2wd Auto, and the difference is night and day. This was the final fix to get my truck rolling smooth again and it worked like a charm. Thank you guys so much for putting this out there. I also wanna say I did have a CEL light on for the first 20 miles or so after installation. After that, it went away and the truck now shifts smoothly and does not let the torque converter cycle like a malfunctioning robot.
@@poppiarlin5612 wow, I heard some other guys had the same outcome after rebuilds. Spend a grand or more and still have the issue. Glad yours is fixed now!
@@lalosanchez2725 Yeah, sometimes it would vary but usually between 40-50. Or if I hit a hill at those speeds, it would just lose it's mind. It still has trouble figuring it out sometimes, but a world of difference in shift consistency.
This works for a while. However if you want to fix the problem there is a ground wire behind the battery on the passenger side. It connects to a ground coming from the alternator and then goes to the battery. Cut the plug out and splice the wires together or replace it if you can find one. You will be fixed forever
A guy I know who is a maintenance supervisor at a college very very intelligent man told me dielectric grease does not make a connection better it keeps a connection from getting worse OK whatever quality connection you had before it will stay that way by keeping it from corroding so anyhow this is six and a row jim same way thank you for all you do your tutorials you’re very good you’re very professional and like I said there’s a section of row jim from Kennerdell Pennsylvania
When first installed on v10 truck it idled so low it stalled... and clicking sounds emanated under drivers side dash, then the transmission held onto first gear way long before shifting. The next morning it was like magic! Normal shift points and no torque converter issues! I am Thrilled with this product.
Installed the isolator and the shifting problem went away for about 300 miles. Now it's back. Cleared the code and it's good for another 300 miles. I knew it was too good to be true.
I replaced the TPS and recalibrated by turning the key to the on position, slowly pushing the fuel pedal to the floor, slowly releasing, then turning key off, and started the truck. it didn’t help.
@claudiohernandez4664 no. I have also replaced the brake lamp stop switch because a guy told me they can occasionally cause lockup problems. Was only $25 so I gave it a shot. I’ve done everything suggested on every TH-cam video and forum I can find. I gave up and took the truck to a reputable transmission shop specializing in diesels. The guy there told me he thought he could figure it out. I left a long list of everything I’ve tried so hopefully he will see those aren’t the problem and charge me for redoing all I’ve done. I’ve removed and cleaned every ground I could find. I’ve had the batteries and alternator tested and they are good. I’ve wrapped the wires around the alternator with foil, Looks terrible but worth a shot. I’ve added ferrite chokes to most of the ground wires. I’ve replaced the throttle position sensor. I’ve replaced the main computer on the firewall behind the air cleaner. I’ve also searched for the ground wire many videos talk about that runs over the alternator over near the throttle position sensor. My truck does not have that ground wire. I don’t think they put that on the 94 models.
I own a 1997 Dodge 2500 Cummins. The diagram says attach APPS noise isolator to PIN#23? I don't see a PIN#23 in the PCM illustration?? I'll just go by the instructions on connecting it to the orange/dark blue wire?
Bought a 99' 24v truck and have been fixing aka driving it when it's running good. However, I'll be buying one cause my truck shuffles shifts upon light throttle.
in screamin diesel vid, he also mentions if brake switch is worn, it could be sending brake "on" signal which kicks out the converter. my converter is cycling. when i lock it out for towing, sometimes it shifts to 2nd, wont shift up to 3rd until i stop and shut off truck for 5 minutes.
I have a 94 with the the RH transmission. The truck has had torque converter lockup problems for over 20 years. I bought this noise filter and it worked for three years. Bought another and it didn’t do a thing. I’ve read countless websites and watched many TH-cam videos trying to fix it. Nothing I’ve found helps. Replaced the TPS and recalibrated it. Didn’t help. Replaced the alternator. Didn’t help. Replaced the batteries. Didn’t help. I’ve search all over for someone that rates alternator output by power quality instead of amps but no one does. I’ve also search for a power conditioner for alternators but can’t find one for 120 amps. I’ve replaced the alternator, thoroughly cleaned all the grounds. That did nothing. Replaced the computer(that was expensive). That didn’t help. Taken it to a transmission shop. They said nothing was wrong. It’s getting discouraging.
@@thoroughbreddiesel That could be. I’ve been trying to pinpoint when it unlocks. It seems to lock when accelerating and unlock when I let up on the fuel pedal. I’ve also noticed it unlocks when cresting a hill.
Hi - im trying to troubleshoot an APPS signal issue on my 03 5.7 - the graph spikes instead of staying constant, this is with car not running (cancels out alternator noise).. ive gone thru every connector, checked grounds, all very clean - sprayed out, when i move the C1 connector it seems to flat top a bit and settle but its kind of random and not 100% sure where to look. The apps sensor tested fine - progressively returning volts as I move the pin by hand.. at a loss - no codes, no deep codes - just 7mpg killing my love! ive changed all sensors, fp constant at 49psi- i reringed this motor (traded it with a spun rod bearing)- i can get up to 80mph - possibly there is noise going back into sensor, would this gadget possibly help? fwiw bores were perfect at 100k miles, now at 120k... drives fine otherwise!
Hi boss I have Dodge Ram 2006 5.9 engine The problem wen I accelerate the RPM goes up and not come dawn It stuck on 3800 Rpm It has only apps sensor inside the car I change everything but negative
Stuck and will not idle down? If that, then you would need to see the app input signal. One thing we see in 03-07 trucks that seem to hang and not come back to idle as soon as you take your foot off the throttle, then I would diagnose it as a injector problem. We have seen the injectors have control valve issues that will cause the engine not to idle down.
I have a 2001 vp44 cummins and when I first drive it after I warm it up I drive down the road it will rev up to around 1500rpm then drop down around 1k rpm and it wont let me have any throttle unless I put it in neutral it has a new apps sensor I did the proper reset for it but it has just started doing this in the cold weather
Could the torque converter issue cause the truck to shift out of od and back in as well? Most of the time it's just the torque converter locking and unlocking at highway speeds and here and there it'll shift out and in of od
@@jrehberg no codes and very intermittent. I got a diesel shop in town that's going to look at it on Monday. I am fully expecting to be replacing a transmission but time will tell
so i have an 03 ram 5.9 24v and the things is i changed my batteries, new cables and all, changed my tps and it worked for a while…then it came again. the truck would work normally at time and then would go into a limp mode or something. it’ll start to accelerate slowly when you have the gas pedal pressed to the floor and it’ll start accelerate faster by itself. when i let go of the gas pedal it’ll suddenly stop and make the turbo bark really loud. or if i’m going and having the gas to the floor it’ll be going and if i step on the break pedal while still holding it to the floor it’ll stop accelerating. so no after all the crap i just said…could anyone please let me know if this might help, it ain’t expensive so i might just go ahead and buy it before anyone says anything but i have my doubts…thanks in advance
@@thoroughbreddiesel it's weird because I'm having an issue exactly how everyone with the Cummins is describing but I have the 5.9 V8. I went ahead and cleaned the terminals on the battery and one of the grounds and it went away 50%. I also read about the same problem happening in jeeps and Chrysler and Dodge cars from the early 2000s and in the cars something goes bad in the alternator which allows the interference with the TPS and changing the alternator fixes it. Trying to get my hands on an oscilloscope contesta TPMS signal both with the engine off then with it running to determine if there's any actual interference.
Not necessarily, an alternator will always have ac noise, that does not mean one's bad, however this should be done with the relocation of the alternator wire
I had the same problem, thought I needed a new converter then my injector pump went and my stereo. If your alternator has bad diodes it will still charge the system but it will also put out a.c. noise which will destroy everything in the truck that has a computer including making the converter lock and unlock continuously.
TC was cycling so bad, truck was hardly driveable. Bought a noise iso but after your comment, decided to replace my alternator 1st. Alternator was less than a yr old and the parts store refused to replace it since it was charging just fine. Had to buy another alt. Replaced it and it fixed my TC problem. Didnt even bother installing the noise iso. Thanks for the great info!!
This is exactly what happened to me. I dropped in a new Alternator and this capacitor and holy crap, she runs like new. I didn't make the correlation from the Alternator to the control devices like this until I noticed how many other items were affected by it. With this and the new alt, I'm back in business.
Yeah, but the ac noise really shouldn't interfere with it jn reality.. but it does. And even if the diodes are emmitting ac noise the alternator is still technically good. Cars and trucks all around you on the road will create this noise and notnm interfere. Theyre differently designed though. Car amplifiers can cause noise through your vehicle and create this problem too.. the way i see it, its not the alternator, its a poorly designed, over sensitive electronic equipment used in these trucks.
It might cause ecm damage if the alternator is bad. I'm on my second ecm and I'm starting to think my alternator is causing the problem but I havent tested it yet
How can I stop shuttle shifting in my 07 ram 5.9 48re
This product only works on trucks up to 2005. I would suggest checking out the solenoid upgrade from ATS or BD Power.
Did you ever fix your truck and What Did you do
Erratic shifting in 48re usually 1-2-1 or 2-3-2 is due to faulty solenoid. These solenoids commonly fail on multi used trucks. Ie, one day light throttle usage in city, next day hauling 15k load warranting heavy throttle application. These trashmissions were made to learn your driving without any PLC or proper programming. It was made to apply similar output and extend the life of the trans. There’s some really good solenoid kits I would recommend trying out the ATS GM 48re Solenoid Block Conversion Kit.
I just wanted to post up a quick review of this Noise Isolator. I had my local shop here in Mebane, NC install this on my 98.5 24v 2wd Auto, and the difference is night and day. This was the final fix to get my truck rolling smooth again and it worked like a charm. Thank you guys so much for putting this out there.
I also wanna say I did have a CEL light on for the first 20 miles or so after installation. After that, it went away and the truck now shifts smoothly and does not let the torque converter cycle like a malfunctioning robot.
I had a dealership rebuild my transmission that was supposed to fix it.
This is what fixed it.
@@poppiarlin5612 wow, I heard some other guys had the same outcome after rebuilds. Spend a grand or more and still have the issue. Glad yours is fixed now!
Hey was your torque converter cycling on and off around 45-50mph?
@@lalosanchez2725 Yeah, sometimes it would vary but usually between 40-50. Or if I hit a hill at those speeds, it would just lose it's mind. It still has trouble figuring it out sometimes, but a world of difference in shift consistency.
@@MirisDesignStudio exactly what mine does man, around 40-50 rpms start jumping around. Going to have to install this asap
This works for a while. However if you want to fix the problem there is a ground wire behind the battery on the passenger side. It connects to a ground coming from the alternator and then goes to the battery. Cut the plug out and splice the wires together or replace it if you can find one. You will be fixed forever
Yep fixed mine. Get rid of that grey quick connect
A guy I know who is a maintenance supervisor at a college very very intelligent man told me dielectric grease does not make a connection better it keeps a connection from getting worse OK whatever quality connection you had before it will stay that way by keeping it from corroding so anyhow this is six and a row jim same way thank you for all you do your tutorials you’re very good you’re very professional and like I said there’s a section of row jim from Kennerdell Pennsylvania
When first installed on v10 truck it idled so low it stalled... and clicking sounds emanated under drivers side dash, then the transmission held onto first gear way long before shifting. The next morning it was like magic! Normal shift points and no torque converter issues! I am Thrilled with this product.
Couldn't be explained better !!
Thanks!
@@thoroughbreddiesel got me one , crispy shifts now for 2 weeks
I just installed it on my 2000 ram works great 👍
Same. I tried all the tricks in the book and it still screwed up. This saved me
Thank you for this video. I bought a truck with this on and was confused as to why it was there 😅
Very welcome!
Installed the isolator and the shifting problem went away for about 300 miles. Now it's back. Cleared the code and it's good for another 300 miles. I knew it was too good to be true.
Mine lasted three years. Bought another one but it didn’t work
Check your TPS sensor
I replaced the TPS and recalibrated by turning the key to the on position, slowly pushing the fuel pedal to the floor, slowly releasing, then turning key off, and started the truck. it didn’t help.
@@markdonley2397 any luck. My worked for about 8 months and it’s doing it again. Any luck?
@claudiohernandez4664 no. I have also replaced the brake lamp stop switch because a guy told me they can occasionally cause lockup problems. Was only $25 so I gave it a shot. I’ve done everything suggested on every TH-cam video and forum I can find. I gave up and took the truck to a reputable transmission shop specializing in diesels. The guy there told me he thought he could figure it out. I left a long list of everything I’ve tried so hopefully he will see those aren’t the problem and charge me for redoing all I’ve done. I’ve removed and cleaned every ground I could find. I’ve had the batteries and alternator tested and they are good. I’ve wrapped the wires around the alternator with foil, Looks terrible but worth a shot. I’ve added ferrite chokes to most of the ground wires. I’ve replaced the throttle position sensor. I’ve replaced the main computer on the firewall behind the air cleaner. I’ve also searched for the ground wire many videos talk about that runs over the alternator over near the throttle position sensor. My truck does not have that ground wire. I don’t think they put that on the 94 models.
I own a 1997 Dodge 2500 Cummins. The diagram says attach APPS noise isolator to PIN#23? I don't see a PIN#23 in the PCM illustration?? I'll just go by the instructions on connecting it to the orange/dark blue wire?
I like ALL your videos!
Thanks! We like making them for you.
Bought a 99' 24v truck and have been fixing aka driving it when it's running good. However, I'll be buying one cause my truck shuffles shifts upon light throttle.
in screamin diesel vid, he also mentions if brake switch is worn, it could be sending brake "on" signal which kicks out the converter. my converter is cycling. when i lock it out for towing, sometimes it shifts to 2nd, wont shift up to 3rd until i stop and shut off truck for 5 minutes.
My other dodge 2500 2001 they used the wire on the middle white plug does that mean they used a different type of filter
I’m not really sure, possibly installed incorrectly?
I have a 94 with the the RH transmission. The truck has had torque converter lockup problems for over 20 years. I bought this noise filter and it worked for three years. Bought another and it didn’t do a thing. I’ve read countless websites and watched many TH-cam videos trying to fix it. Nothing I’ve found helps. Replaced the TPS and recalibrated it. Didn’t help. Replaced the alternator. Didn’t help. Replaced the batteries. Didn’t help. I’ve search all over for someone that rates alternator output by power quality instead of amps but no one does. I’ve also search for a power conditioner for alternators but can’t find one for 120 amps. I’ve replaced the alternator, thoroughly cleaned all the grounds. That did nothing. Replaced the computer(that was expensive). That didn’t help. Taken it to a transmission shop. They said nothing was wrong. It’s getting discouraging.
I feel like you are having a pressure problem. I would find another trans shop to read fluid pressure.
@@thoroughbreddiesel That could be. I’ve been trying to pinpoint when it unlocks. It seems to lock when accelerating and unlock when I let up on the fuel pedal. I’ve also noticed it unlocks when cresting a hill.
Hi - im trying to troubleshoot an APPS signal issue on my 03 5.7 - the graph spikes instead of staying constant, this is with car not running (cancels out alternator noise).. ive gone thru every connector, checked grounds, all very clean - sprayed out, when i move the C1 connector it seems to flat top a bit and settle but its kind of random and not 100% sure where to look. The apps sensor tested fine - progressively returning volts as I move the pin by hand.. at a loss - no codes, no deep codes - just 7mpg killing my love! ive changed all sensors, fp constant at 49psi- i reringed this motor (traded it with a spun rod bearing)- i can get up to 80mph - possibly there is noise going back into sensor, would this gadget possibly help? fwiw bores were perfect at 100k miles, now at 120k... drives fine otherwise!
Hi boss
I have Dodge Ram 2006 5.9 engine
The problem wen I accelerate the RPM goes up and not come dawn
It stuck on 3800 Rpm
It has only apps sensor inside the car
I change everything but negative
Stuck and will not idle down? If that, then you would need to see the app input signal. One thing we see in 03-07 trucks that seem to hang and not come back to idle as soon as you take your foot off the throttle, then I would diagnose it as a injector problem. We have seen the injectors have control valve issues that will cause the engine not to idle down.
i installed it an i did not work i really need this issue fixed im thinking to just rewire the alt ground
I just installed this on my 99 24v. It was as easy as you show it problem solved But now my truck will not shift into overdrive
Cold air duct goes inside the air filter housing
I have 2005 that shuttle shifts and the converter dont fully lock until like 2200 rpms
Would this product help
Will this work on a v10 2500
I have a 2001 vp44 cummins and when I first drive it after I warm it up I drive down the road it will rev up to around 1500rpm then drop down around 1k rpm and it wont let me have any throttle unless I put it in neutral it has a new apps sensor I did the proper reset for it but it has just started doing this in the cold weather
How do I know if i have a 47re or a 48re transmission? I have a 2006 ram 2500 laramie 4x4 5.9 cummins
You have a 48re. 3rd gens didn't come with 47re
Could the torque converter issue cause the truck to shift out of od and back in as well? Most of the time it's just the torque converter locking and unlocking at highway speeds and here and there it'll shift out and in of od
Did you ever figure this out? I am having this issue on my 04 2500 5.9 59k miles
@Jacob Norton ended up being the harness for the apps which your truck won't have.
@@jrehberg I appreciate it, it's a heck of a head scratcher
@@Boogytron you don't have any codes?
@@jrehberg no codes and very intermittent. I got a diesel shop in town that's going to look at it on Monday. I am fully expecting to be replacing a transmission but time will tell
I have a p pump conversion on my 1998.5 cummins will this still work effectively for me?
so i have an 03 ram 5.9 24v and the things is i changed my batteries, new cables and all, changed my tps and it worked for a while…then it came again. the truck would work normally at time and then would go into a limp mode or something. it’ll start to accelerate slowly when you have the gas pedal pressed to the floor and it’ll start accelerate faster by itself. when i let go of the gas pedal it’ll suddenly stop and make the turbo bark really loud. or if i’m going and having the gas to the floor it’ll be going and if i step on the break pedal while still holding it to the floor it’ll stop accelerating. so no after all the crap i just said…could anyone please let me know if this might help, it ain’t expensive so i might just go ahead and buy it before anyone says anything but i have my doubts…thanks in advance
Is this an issue on all 46re trans or just the diesels?
Just the 47 equipped Dodge-Cummins trucks.
@@thoroughbreddiesel it's weird because I'm having an issue exactly how everyone with the Cummins is describing but I have the 5.9 V8. I went ahead and cleaned the terminals on the battery and one of the grounds and it went away 50%. I also read about the same problem happening in jeeps and Chrysler and Dodge cars from the early 2000s and in the cars something goes bad in the alternator which allows the interference with the TPS and changing the alternator fixes it.
Trying to get my hands on an oscilloscope contesta TPMS signal both with the engine off then with it running to determine if there's any actual interference.
Hey I have this mod installed but doesn't this just cover up the alternator causing the problem with ac noise?
Not necessarily, an alternator will always have ac noise, that does not mean one's bad, however this should be done with the relocation of the alternator wire
I had the same problem, thought I needed a new converter then my injector pump went and my stereo. If your alternator has bad diodes it will still charge the system but it will also put out a.c. noise which will destroy everything in the truck that has a computer including making the converter lock and unlock continuously.
TC was cycling so bad, truck was hardly driveable. Bought a noise iso but after your comment, decided to replace my alternator 1st. Alternator was less than a yr old and the parts store refused to replace it since it was charging just fine. Had to buy another alt. Replaced it and it fixed my TC problem. Didnt even bother installing the noise iso. Thanks for the great info!!
This is exactly what happened to me. I dropped in a new Alternator and this capacitor and holy crap, she runs like new. I didn't make the correlation from the Alternator to the control devices like this until I noticed how many other items were affected by it. With this and the new alt, I'm back in business.
Yep alternator fixed mine, dash said it was putting out 14v but Napa said it was bad.
What do you mean by ac noise ?? I’m having the problem now
@@amazingdiesel9015 Alternating Current, like what's in your home outlets. Alternator should be outputting DC, Direct Current.
Check you're alternator for a.c. noise! These gizmos don't solve the problem they just mask the real cause. It's an old dodge problem, look it up!
Yeah, but the ac noise really shouldn't interfere with it jn reality.. but it does. And even if the diodes are emmitting ac noise the alternator is still technically good. Cars and trucks all around you on the road will create this noise and notnm interfere. Theyre differently designed though. Car amplifiers can cause noise through your vehicle and create this problem too.. the way i see it, its not the alternator, its a poorly designed, over sensitive electronic equipment used in these trucks.
Wire routing problem. They run the ground next to the spinning magnet and the ground becomes part of the charging system
I wrapped the ground wire with aluminum and added ferrite chokes but it didn’t help. I have a 94 12valve with the RH transmission.
Does it hurt to install anyway?for future?
It might cause ecm damage if the alternator is bad. I'm on my second ecm and I'm starting to think my alternator is causing the problem but I havent tested it yet
Can this product be used on a 1500?
No. Wiring position won’t be the same.
Dielectric grease does not conduct electricity. you need conductive grease
Timber, at rest.
Why are all Dodge Cummins '96 to '03 such peices of shit?
Mine has been fine lol.
The intro is annoying. Make it a little shorter.
I have 99 Dodge ram 2500 diesel stik shift 5speed it this works?
Yes, this is a good addition on all VP trucks to keep you from having electrical noise to your APPS signal.