Dude...... It's crazy how something so simple as that can cause so much issues. This hack literally was the solution to all my problems. It's a completely different truck now. As if it was shifting through gears like a new truck. And my truck has 313,000 miles. Thank you so much. I'm in love again with my truck.👌
I’ve run a fass 150 for as long as I’ve owned the truck, and the pump which is on it has 330k miles on it. As long as you keep up with filter changes and run a Fass, your VP will last a long time.
Man this video seriously made my life soooo much better......I’ve been fighting this issue for months and was about to just give up. Amazing how easy it is once someone else diagnoses it for you. THANKYOU
uzi4you2say I think I am having this same problem the only thing is that I have a 2005 dodge 2500 hemi. Is it possible to be the t/c lock issue even though it’s not a diesel truck?? Please help!!!
I just ran a new ground from passenger battery to the ECM ground strap location and completely cleared up the RPM jumping around. I will also get FARADY tape and rerun the ECM wire hes showing. My truck is a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins 24V.
I too have been fighting this shit. 418k miles and it always returns every year about the same time. all the gadget upgrades then reassign ground wire. Outstanding
AC Noise from the alt does NOT just affect the transmission. Having a manual transmission does NOT mean you do not need to worry about AC noise. AC noise will kill the VP44, ECM, PCM, dash cluster and more. Basically every electrical comment is at risk. These Cummins trucks (specifically the two computers) are particularly sensitive to AC noise and very expensive to fix. Moving the ground wire or adding noise filters is a bandaid that make the issue. If its measuring over .05v you need to replace that alternator and test again. If your using cheap parts store alternators, be prepared to swap them 2-3 times before you find one that has good AC noise. Always Buy, install and then test in your truck. Don't trust the "bench test". Test it with the truck running, additional accessories (lights and what not) Off and at the Alternator, not the batteries.
You can also tin foil, electrical tape the ground wire then reroute that's what I did along with better alternator and apps noise isolater to new ground.
KeTO BeasT84 yeah it works until the problem returns when your alternator is still functioning, but not optimally. Removing the capability for induction of current into the system makes the whole system more robust.
@@uzifouryoutwosay it tries to lockup then jumps out then when i get up in speed and it finally locks. If im more aggressive with acceleration it doesnt do it.
That sounds like your OD/Lockup solenoids (specifically lockup) are faulty.They’re located on the valve body, inside the trans, but can be replaced by dropping the pan and valve body.
Shit, I’ve tried this, changed transducer, pressure solenoid, adjusted bands, cleaned battery terminals and clamps, added a noise isolator to the C1 connector on the PCM and nothing. Hit a massive pothole and it came back hunting for gears harder than before instantly after hitting that hole. Kinda leads me to believe there’s a loose connection. Trucks hunts for gears, in and out of lockup, takes off in 2nd at times. I’m at the end of my fuckin rope here. Trans is built and is fine with fresh fluid also. Does anyone have any other ideas that would be a possible fix? Could the shifter on the steering column be out of wack? I’ve noticed if I end up adjusting the shifter on the column as in getting into into D better it tends to act “more so normal”
It’s probably an issue with your shifter or your valve body. 2nd is controlled hydraulically, only overdrive and lockup are controlled electrically. So, you should look at the shifter lever as it comes out of the bulkhead and all the joints on it, as well as the actual selector on the trans. There’s a lever that attaches to the shaft that’s your shift lever, make sure everything is solid there, and from there I would look at valve body stuff. Literally nothing electrical has to do with starting in second or weird shock associated hunting issues.
@@Themarketplacebandit I would check to see the routing of your ground wire. The 48RE is a very similar transmission and in an 03 the topography of the engine management system is more like what you would see in an older truck
Instead of rinning the ground clear to the battery on the pass side could a person shorten the ground an route it to the ground to the battery on the drivers side???????
I would think so, but have fun with going through all that wiring mess. It was hassle enough to cut to back right passed the 3 way connection other side of Alternator cover, but that's where I took it back to and tin foiled, electrical taped then rerouted away from Alternator. Be aware the batteries serve different functions, the passenger is charged by alt and the driver side main powers starter etc.
@@ketobeast8489 old comment, but dual battery setups like on diesel trucks, create one large battery. There is no....driver side battery, pass side battery...... There is only two halves of one large battery, as theh are fully connected to each other.
I have a 97 12v auto, when I apply generous amounts of throttle (usually while going up a grade) the transmission will quickly lock and unlock, feels like a jolt. Also every once in awhile it will completely disengage and my RPM’s skyrocket. If I let my foot off the throttle it will reingage . Does this sound like a similar problem to what you were having? It only happens above 45-50.
rogerthenegotiator69 that sounds like you either need to replace you APPS or calibrate it. Either way you will need a voltmeter to test that it’s within range. It’s nothing too scary though
rogerthenegotiator69 no worries man. Also, relocating your ground wire for your alternator and wrapping it in tin foil will help attenuate any electrical noise induction that may be interfering with your system as well.
From what I understand; these torque converter locking and unlocking issues are caused by excessive AC noise coming from the alternator. This is because the diodes are toast. If this isn't fixed, it will eventually fry your APPS, PCM and the PSG on the injection pump. mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/52_transmission-transfer-case/torque-converter-issues-and-alternator-noise-testing-r388/
Pete Morris, I've not heard the frying of the pcm issue, due to inducted voltages, however I have experimented with new and old alternators and found that the only proper fix was re-routing/shielding of ground wires. The other option too is a noise filter which does effectively the same thing. That being said, I've owned 3 isb powered 99-2001 dodge pickups and logged somewhere around 250,000 miles on those trucks, with mileages varying from 190-400k miles, and I've never experienced frying of ecm/pcm/vp44. Not saying it can't happen, just never experienced it myself.
I'm glad to hear that you haven't experienced any problems with the other electronics on your vehicles. I hope I didn't come off sounding like an "alarmist" or some sort of smart aleck, If I did, I apologize : - ) As a owner of an 01 47re 2nd gen, I myself haven't experienced any lock up issues or any other electrical issues for that matter. With 126,000 on the odo and with the original ALT still on it. I plan on checking it for excess a/c noise, if it's out of spec, I will probably just replace the whole unit with one from Nations. they're a little spendy but well worth it from what I understand. GOOD LUCK!
The ONLY proper fix is an alternator that not putting out the noise int he first place... its take multiples some times to find one. China stuff is junk. You can heck out Nations Alternators, there pricy but good made in USA quality and should all have good noise out the door. Or look at a 6 phase alternator, but thats gonna be like $500+
would this effect lack of throttle I did a 01 24v swap in my 77 Ford ran all my wiring now the throttle feels like it governs out at low rpms won't let me go over 45mph
+Deer Park I would look at your APPS and make sure it's calibrated (more or less your throttle position sensor). Also, did you pull the motor from a running/driving truck?
I’d have to see the routing of the ground wire on a gas pickup, but yes the alternator could generate noise and cause this same issue in a gas pickup, for sure.
@@uzifouryoutwosay thanks man I'll give it a try I know I also have some bad vavle seals don't think that's the problem with the torque converter. I wished they put the 727 in these. I know 3gears aren't great . But the 727 is a really good trans
nerdanderthal IDontLikeGooglePlus It's very straight forward if you have the right parts. My truck still has the stock ECM and PCM. You will need to jump your neutral safety switch and install the clutch start beneath the pedal. Your cruise control will not work until you can find an ECM out of a manual truck, but otherwise it's as simple as cutting a hole in the floor and doing a tranny swap. I have a video on my channel of my truck with the swapped parts in place here th-cam.com/video/pS2BDJIeaT4/w-d-xo.html Don't listen to the mall ninjas on youtube and forums trying to make it out to be rocket surgery. Unfortunately, it's just not that complex.
1. My transmission has more than a few miles on it and was never maintained by the previous owner. 2. A good rebuild for my auto is almost as much as a five speed. 3. My transmission needs a rebuild 4. Towing capacity will go up with a manual and several points of failure will be eliminated with a swap. 5. Gas milage goes up with a manual. 6. A long time ago my dad told me that automatic transmissions in a truck is un-American. If I were driving in stop and go traffic all day or had a disability an auto would be the way to go. Seems like automatics became more and more popular and can be found jeeps and corvettes now. Seems like their popularity coincides with cell phones - folks need a free hand.
nerdanderthal IDontLikeGooglePlus Well and nowadays, automatic transmissions are far more stout than they were in the past. You make solid points, and my old man would say the same thing. I ask because a lot of guys think that by doing a manual swap, they're magically gonna be able to put 800 horse to the ground and run 11's on the drag strip. Though it can be done, I tend to argue that if speed and power are what you're looking for, you need to be a big kid and build your auto. However, for simplicity, and the opportunity to stir your own transmission, manuals are nice. I think that true reliability is subjective, based on your operating conditions and expectations; so it's hard for me to succinctly say one is more reliable than the other. As well, I've only got 60k miles on my manual, and I put roughly 140k on my auto so we'll see.
Is this why when my truck gets up to temp it kicks it out of 4th overdrive, my problem is when I leave it sitting it will shift but when it warms up or like literally 5 minutes of driving it kicks it out of 4th and I drive in 3rd at all times
Mopamans fix is more in depth, but this is an easier/quicker fix depending on the state of your alternator and how much noise it’s generating (mr myagi voice) “samea same, onery different”
Michael Moore I believe you in your specific situation. But it’s essentially the same idea. Minimize the capacity of inducing a current into your ground, thus throwing off your PCM. I’ve personally used this method, and over the last three years of it being on youtube, I’ve had a lot of people tell me that it’s worked very well for them. Like I said, it’s not as in depth as what moparman does, but for a lot of people, this has been sufficient.
![ออร่า (AURA) - JUEPAK feat. SARAN | [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RY9j7Lzp-FI/mqdefault.jpg)
Dude...... It's crazy how something so simple as that can cause so much issues. This hack literally was the solution to all my problems. It's a completely different truck now. As if it was shifting through gears like a new truck. And my truck has 313,000 miles. Thank you so much. I'm in love again with my truck.👌
Jonathan Morillo hell yeah! Glad to hear it worked for you!
Curious what lift pump you are using and if you've ever had to replace the vp44?
I’ve run a fass 150 for as long as I’ve owned the truck, and the pump which is on it has 330k miles on it. As long as you keep up with filter changes and run a Fass, your VP will last a long time.
I use airdog raptor 150. Same thing, i keep up with filter and have had no issues with it. Its been on for a good 3 to 4 years.
Man this video seriously made my life soooo much better......I’ve been fighting this issue for months and was about to just give up. Amazing how easy it is once someone else diagnoses it for you. THANKYOU
Brian Churchwell glad to know it helped man! Feel free to let me know if you need any help!
uzi4you2say I think I am having this same problem the only thing is that I have a 2005 dodge 2500 hemi. Is it possible to be the t/c lock issue even though it’s not a diesel truck?? Please help!!!
I just ran a new ground from passenger battery to the ECM ground strap location and completely cleared up the RPM jumping around. I will also get FARADY tape and rerun the ECM wire hes showing. My truck is a 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins 24V.
Been dealing with this problem for 3 years took his advice instant fix was getting ready to order solenoids thank you for your time and advice
Good to hear it worked for you!
I too have been fighting this shit. 418k miles and it always returns every year about the same time. all the gadget upgrades then reassign ground wire. Outstanding
I fixed it. Removed the alt wire and ground. only left the rest in harness.
@@upragu3 still running okay? Can figure out what's going on with my automatic
Checked this on my 2000 and the ground wire was nearly rubbed in half on the alternator housing. Fixed and added coolant hose sleeve.
I run new grounds to the pcm to fix it. Anything else just stops it for a wile. Had the truck 15 years. This final completely fixed it five years ago.
bigblockcutlass123 mine is having the same problem but is also cutting power every now and then. Would this cause that as well?
Cool... is there a way you can make a video on how you ran grounds to pcm???
AC Noise from the alt does NOT just affect the transmission. Having a manual transmission does NOT mean you do not need to worry about AC noise. AC noise will kill the VP44, ECM, PCM, dash cluster and more. Basically every electrical comment is at risk. These Cummins trucks (specifically the two computers) are particularly sensitive to AC noise and very expensive to fix.
Moving the ground wire or adding noise filters is a bandaid that make the issue. If its measuring over .05v you need to replace that alternator and test again. If your using cheap parts store alternators, be prepared to swap them 2-3 times before you find one that has good AC noise. Always Buy, install and then test in your truck. Don't trust the "bench test". Test it with the truck running, additional accessories (lights and what not) Off and at the Alternator, not the batteries.
You can also tin foil, electrical tape the ground wire then reroute that's what I did along with better alternator and apps noise isolater to new ground.
KeTO BeasT84 so tin foil and ground chasing in both instances didn’t fix the issue. Re-routing and noise isolation are going to be your best bet.
@@uzifouryoutwosay New alternator diodes or new alt. Tested with less ac noise is real fix.
KeTO BeasT84 yeah it works until the problem returns when your alternator is still functioning, but not optimally. Removing the capability for induction of current into the system makes the whole system more robust.
You need to check your alternator diodes for AC current
Did this plus many other fixes. Still does it. Going to try to replace alternator next even though it test ok
Can you describe the problem you’re having with lockup specifically?
@@uzifouryoutwosay it tries to lockup then jumps out then when i get up in speed and it finally locks. If im more aggressive with acceleration it doesnt do it.
That sounds like your OD/Lockup solenoids (specifically lockup) are faulty.They’re located on the valve body, inside the trans, but can be replaced by dropping the pan and valve body.
Shit, I’ve tried this, changed transducer, pressure solenoid, adjusted bands, cleaned battery terminals and clamps, added a noise isolator to the C1 connector on the PCM and nothing. Hit a massive pothole and it came back hunting for gears harder than before instantly after hitting that hole. Kinda leads me to believe there’s a loose connection. Trucks hunts for gears, in and out of lockup, takes off in 2nd at times. I’m at the end of my fuckin rope here. Trans is built and is fine with fresh fluid also. Does anyone have any other ideas that would be a possible fix? Could the shifter on the steering column be out of wack? I’ve noticed if I end up adjusting the shifter on the column as in getting into into D better it tends to act “more so normal”
It’s probably an issue with your shifter or your valve body. 2nd is controlled hydraulically, only overdrive and lockup are controlled electrically. So, you should look at the shifter lever as it comes out of the bulkhead and all the joints on it, as well as the actual selector on the trans. There’s a lever that attaches to the shaft that’s your shift lever, make sure everything is solid there, and from there I would look at valve body stuff. Literally nothing electrical has to do with starting in second or weird shock associated hunting issues.
Is the 48re the same way? Having the same issue with my 03
@@Themarketplacebandit I would check to see the routing of your ground wire. The 48RE is a very similar transmission and in an 03 the topography of the engine management system is more like what you would see in an older truck
Thanks for posting this. I rerouted the ground and so far so good. The lock unlock was starting to piss me off!
Instead of rinning the ground clear to the battery on the pass side could a person shorten the ground an route it to the ground to the battery on the drivers side???????
That's a good question. You should comment that directly
I would think so, but have fun with going through all that wiring mess. It was hassle enough to cut to back right passed the 3 way connection other side of Alternator cover, but that's where I took it back to and tin foiled, electrical taped then rerouted away from Alternator. Be aware the batteries serve different functions, the passenger is charged by alt and the driver side main powers starter etc.
@@ketobeast8489 old comment, but dual battery setups like on diesel trucks, create one large battery.
There is no....driver side battery, pass side battery......
There is only two halves of one large battery, as theh are fully connected to each other.
Does this apply to v10 models? I think they share the same transmissions and am experiencing the same problem
It won’t be exactly the same, however I would look at the routing of your grounds and reroute them if it looks to be in a similar configuration.
I have a 97 12v auto, when I apply generous amounts of throttle (usually while going up a grade) the transmission will quickly lock and unlock, feels like a jolt. Also every once in awhile it will completely disengage and my RPM’s skyrocket. If I let my foot off the throttle it will reingage .
Does this sound like a similar problem to what you were having? It only happens above 45-50.
rogerthenegotiator69 that sounds like you either need to replace you APPS or calibrate it. Either way you will need a voltmeter to test that it’s within range. It’s nothing too scary though
uzi4you2say thank you for the reply, I appreciate it.
rogerthenegotiator69 no worries man. Also, relocating your ground wire for your alternator and wrapping it in tin foil will help attenuate any electrical noise induction that may be interfering with your system as well.
Shifting solenoid
Did anyone have to add extra wire or was there enough to reroute?
There’s enough to just reroute it, as long as you have the original wires, or wires made to the same lengths.
what if my wire is already rerouted but it's having this issue?
amber kay you need to have your alternator tested/replace your alternator
Besides the alternator, check your batteries. If one is weak, that cold also be an issue
From what I understand; these torque converter locking and unlocking issues are caused by excessive AC noise coming from the alternator. This is because the diodes are toast. If this isn't fixed, it will eventually fry your APPS, PCM and the PSG on the injection pump. mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation/52_transmission-transfer-case/torque-converter-issues-and-alternator-noise-testing-r388/
Pete Morris, I've not heard the frying of the pcm issue, due to inducted voltages, however I have experimented with new and old alternators and found that the only proper fix was re-routing/shielding of ground wires. The other option too is a noise filter which does effectively the same thing. That being said, I've owned 3 isb powered 99-2001 dodge pickups and logged somewhere around 250,000 miles on those trucks, with mileages varying from 190-400k miles, and I've never experienced frying of ecm/pcm/vp44. Not saying it can't happen, just never experienced it myself.
I'm glad to hear that you haven't experienced any problems with the other electronics on your vehicles. I hope I didn't come off sounding like an "alarmist" or some sort of smart aleck, If I did, I apologize : - )
As a owner of an 01 47re 2nd gen, I myself haven't experienced any lock up issues or any other electrical issues for that matter. With 126,000 on the odo and with the original ALT still on it. I plan on checking it for excess a/c noise, if it's out of spec, I will probably just replace the whole unit with one from Nations. they're a little spendy but well worth it from what I understand. GOOD LUCK!
This guy is exactly right, and the article he posted is the truth and fact from one of the best 2nd gen guys on the web.
The ONLY proper fix is an alternator that not putting out the noise int he first place... its take multiples some times to find one. China stuff is junk. You can heck out Nations Alternators, there pricy but good made in USA quality and should all have good noise out the door. Or look at a 6 phase alternator, but thats gonna be like $500+
would this effect lack of throttle I did a 01 24v swap in my 77 Ford ran all my wiring now the throttle feels like it governs out at low rpms won't let me go over 45mph
+Deer Park I would look at your APPS and make sure it's calibrated (more or less your throttle position sensor). Also, did you pull the motor from a running/driving truck?
Let it warm up.. put in n and slam throttle Down until the carbon clears out and the motor will rev
Does this work for gas engines also?
I’d have to see the routing of the ground wire on a gas pickup, but yes the alternator could generate noise and cause this same issue in a gas pickup, for sure.
@@uzifouryoutwosay thanks man I'll give it a try I know I also have some bad vavle seals don't think that's the problem with the torque converter. I wished they put the 727 in these. I know 3gears aren't great . But the 727 is a really good trans
I want to put a manual transmission in my '01 24 valve. I hope its not going to be as difficult as it seems. Did your truck's computer will freak?
nerdanderthal IDontLikeGooglePlus
It's very straight forward if you have the right parts. My truck still has the stock ECM and PCM. You will need to jump your neutral safety switch and install the clutch start beneath the pedal. Your cruise control will not work until you can find an ECM out of a manual truck, but otherwise it's as simple as cutting a hole in the floor and doing a tranny swap. I have a video on my channel of my truck with the swapped parts in place here
th-cam.com/video/pS2BDJIeaT4/w-d-xo.html
Don't listen to the mall ninjas on youtube and forums trying to make it out to be rocket surgery. Unfortunately, it's just not that complex.
+nerdanderthal IDontLikeGooglePlus
Here's my question, why do you want a manual as opposed to the auto that's in it?
1. My transmission has more than a few miles on it and was never maintained by the previous owner.
2. A good rebuild for my auto is almost as much as a five speed.
3. My transmission needs a rebuild
4. Towing capacity will go up with a manual and several points of failure will be eliminated with a swap.
5. Gas milage goes up with a manual.
6. A long time ago my dad told me that automatic transmissions in a truck is un-American.
If I were driving in stop and go traffic all day or had a disability an auto would be the way to go. Seems like automatics became more and more popular and can be found jeeps and corvettes now. Seems like their popularity coincides with cell phones - folks need a free hand.
nerdanderthal IDontLikeGooglePlus
Well and nowadays, automatic transmissions are far more stout than they were in the past.
You make solid points, and my old man would say the same thing. I ask because a lot of guys think that by doing a manual swap, they're magically gonna be able to put 800 horse to the ground and run 11's on the drag strip. Though it can be done, I tend to argue that if speed and power are what you're looking for, you need to be a big kid and build your auto.
However, for simplicity, and the opportunity to stir your own transmission, manuals are nice.
I think that true reliability is subjective, based on your operating conditions and expectations; so it's hard for me to succinctly say one is more reliable than the other. As well, I've only got 60k miles on my manual, and I put roughly 140k on my auto so we'll see.
Where did you get your cummins valve cover
Evan Fugle I got it from a performance shop I used to work for. It’s a cummins 24 valve industrial/marine valve cover.
Wilford Brimley yeah ive been waiting for 3 weeks for mine backorder they say
Evan Fugle how much did you pay for it? Some places I looked at online are showing discontinued?
Is this why when my truck gets up to temp it kicks it out of 4th overdrive, my problem is when I leave it sitting it will shift but when it warms up or like literally 5 minutes of driving it kicks it out of 4th and I drive in 3rd at all times
That sound your overdrive/lockup solenoid is failing. Easy to replace if you’re not afraid to drop your pan and pull your valve body
This doesn't fix the issue Google moparmans fix it involves re routing pcm ecm and vp44 grounds and the alternator plus wire
Mopamans fix is more in depth, but this is an easier/quicker fix depending on the state of your alternator and how much noise it’s generating (mr myagi voice) “samea same, onery different”
I tried all the tips and tricks down to the tee and nothing ever fix mine until I did the Mopar man fix
Michael Moore I believe you in your specific situation. But it’s essentially the same idea. Minimize the capacity of inducing a current into your ground, thus throwing off your PCM. I’ve personally used this method, and over the last three years of it being on youtube, I’ve had a lot of people tell me that it’s worked very well for them. Like I said, it’s not as in depth as what moparman does, but for a lot of people, this has been sufficient.
💯