hi lance, I come from Germany and found your channel by chance. I Restore an MF 35 from 1961. I discovered that the rear axles leaks oil or grease. So i want to give it a new seal. But it seems to be more complicated than I thought. I will give it to a professioneal workshop. Thanks for that video, it was very helpful for me
Great video! I have done that job several times the first time I did it I heated the collar in the oven to the temperature the service manual said it warned about overheating the collar I couldn't get it on so I heated it up like you did with the torch dropped right on. Good to see I am not the only one that does it that way. The plate you made to press with is impressive. Keep the videos coming.
Hello Lance, London calling again, well somewhere in rural England actually. Thank you again for this video. I have just about finished restoring a MF35 and changing the rear axle outer seals is the only part that I had to get a professional workshop to carry out for me. Glad I did though looking at the pressure that it required to remove the bearing housing on your assembly. It was nice to see how it was done and has inspired me to give it ago myself should my MF135 axles ever need doing. Your tip on using a chip fryer to heat the bearings was, well just inspired. Thanks again.
Another great DIY instructional video Lance. I like your work. Your video on replacing seals on a CAV injection pump helped me do mine on a MF 148. This video will help me understand what's involved with the rear axle of MF148 which I think only needs an inner oil seal replacement (leaking oil down the back of the wheel housing). I presume there is an inner oil seal on a MF 148 as I have yet to pull the axle out. Thanks again, much appreciate you sharing your knowledge and expertise. Keith Jervis
G Day Laurence, Glad to see the vids are helping. I have a grey and gold petrol over here I restored a few years back now. Drop me a line if you need some help, I know those old girls well.
Pretty slick Lance on the seal, another way to get bearing cups out of a hole is to weld a short bead on race and it will fall out guess intence heat makes it draw up.
Hi Fergyfreund, you have used the Prsse in the rings for the wheel bearings. If you do not have a press you can place the rings in the freezer the day before at 30 ° C - then take some oil and bring in the rings very easily. I always work with cold and warmth on the rear axle. Your lectures are really great and I like to visit you. However, I had to destroy the wheel bearings.
G'day Lance,I've just replaced the rear axle oil seals on my 1963 Landrover. Similar arrangement to the Fergy. It has Timkin bearings and I was pleased to note that they are stamped Made in Australia. I don't believe that we've made bearings in Australia for about 40 years. Sad, we don't even build any cars either. Love your videos Lance, bloo## good workRegards Dave Tointon
G Day Davet, I see the Australian ones from time to time in the old IHC tractors that were made in Geelong, but nothing seems to get made here now. Thanks for watching and commenting.
G'day mate. I enjoyed the video today. I have replaced car bearings with my press but they don't need so much heat as that setup there. Keep on keeping on.
G Day Harrold, you need to get a lot of heat on that collar, I have had them stick half way and they are ruined. If you tap them on they stretch and come loose again.
Lance there is an easier way to remove the outer bearing cup. If I haden't have seen it with my own eyes I would not have believed it. Using a stick welder with about a 3.2mm rod and around 140 amps run a bead of weld around the center of the race and let it cool for a few minutes. Flip the housing over and the cup will fall out. What happens is as the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the cup. You might find this handy one day when you come across a stubborn one that doesn't wanna be flogged out. When heating the retainer, a good idea is to sit it on a brick, to insulate it from the table.
G day Peter, Yes I have welded bearing quite a bit in the past and it does work very well. I didn't go that way as I'm not sure all Fergy owners would have a welder. I do have more axles to do so it might be worth showing it as another way to get the job done. I usually sit the retainer up off the big welding bench to stop heat loss but I just do happen to have a couple of fire bricks I was given recently so they might get used too.
Thank you for showing this. I enjoyed the video just before I made the axles for my own MF35. You can see video of my restoration on my channel. Regards from Denmark.
Hello Mister, is there any chance that you've a video online where you show how to repair the cause of an oil leakage from the lower link hydraulics of an JD 1640 or similiar build? I'm from Germany and one of your videos helped me a lot to repair an oil leakage on my lower steering weel part on my JD 1640. so I hope you can help me out I enjoy watching your channel keep up the detail work Greetings Chris
I need to replace the outer axle seal on a Ford 3600. The axles look similar to those. I haven't disassembled it yet. I dread if I have to go through all that for seals. Good info, though. Thanks.
hello Lance I have Universal Tractor UTL640 the 3 point lifts keeps going up & down continuous ,what seems to be problems,everything works with hydraulic loader thx in advance
Not too familiar with that axel arrangement, my question is, Is that the only time the axel bearing gets grease? Or is there a zerk on the tractor housing? Thanks, and thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge.
Hey Lance good video lots of help while restore my 135, I had lots of problems getting my bearings off so for the other side I want to get a plate cut like you have, how thick is the metal you used?
Hi Lance, thank for your excellent instruction! Can I just pull out the axle from the housing after I have loosend the nuts? Or is there some nasty stuff inside like needle bearings? And for my imagination: how far are the inner and outer seals apart? I might only need to replace the inner seals. I have an early MF35 BTW. Thanks, Rene
G Day Rene, Once you undo the bolts and remove the axle it should just slide out. Then you will need to remove the collar and bearing if you are doing the outer seal but just the inner there is no need to remove the collar.
Hi Lance. biggest problem I have had with my MF 35 is fitting new diesel fuel lines to old ports such as lift pump ports and getting a good seal on the compression joints. I recon that the old joints had been over tightened and probably deformed or scored the female port. any suggestions from you would be greatly appreciated. Thanks bud.
G day Charlie, Yes the later ones did that but if someone is trying to stay original there is no need, another 60 years and they will need looking at again I suppose.
Hey lance Have had axle bearing replaced one one is easy to turn and has some free play when you lift the hub up onto the bearing . The other one is very firm to turn and has no free play which one is correct Could you please advise me on correct fitment
G Day Wayne, They should both have free play but it you used the leather type Sparex seal they are very tight and you will need to bump the bearing carrier up and down to feel the end float or on the tight one the lip of the seal has possibly been turned while fitting.
Hello sir. I regularly monitor your channel where you are restoring the MF 35. So I'm wondering if you recorded the adjustment or replacement of the differential power transmission I can't find it on your channel.
@@BundyBearsShed If I understood you correctly, you still haven't recorded it and are you planning to record something like that. replacement and adjustment gear pairs of differential transmission of power flow MF 35, if you understand what I mean.
Why don't they just let the ttansmission oil lubricate the bearing instead of grease on the rear tyres I mean obviously oul is a much better lubricant!
They did that in the earlt tractors and when the seal leaked it was a major job getting the collar off buying new ones etc so this way you can replace the inner seal very quickly. Grease is good though just look at the front wheel bearings on a car.
hi lance,
I come from Germany and found your channel by chance.
I Restore an MF 35 from 1961. I discovered that the rear axles leaks oil or grease.
So i want to give it a new seal.
But it seems to be more complicated than I thought.
I will give it to a professioneal workshop.
Thanks for that video, it was very helpful for me
Welcome.
Great video! I have done that job several times the first time I did it I heated the collar in the oven to the temperature the service manual said it warned about overheating the collar I couldn't get it on so I heated it up like you did with the torch dropped right on. Good to see I am not the only one that does it that way. The plate you made to press with is impressive. Keep the videos coming.
G Day Zac, I did the same and it just didnt work. Nice and red and you dont stretch the collar and it shrinks on nicely.
Thanks
Brilliant video.Well done Lance. 👌
Thankyou.
Hello Lance, London calling again, well somewhere in rural England actually. Thank you again for this video. I have just about finished restoring a MF35 and changing the rear axle outer seals is the only part that I had to get a professional workshop to carry out for me. Glad I did though looking at the pressure that it required to remove the bearing housing on your assembly. It was nice to see how it was done and has inspired me to give it ago myself should my MF135 axles ever need doing. Your tip on using a chip fryer to heat the bearings was, well just inspired. Thanks again.
Another great DIY instructional video Lance. I like your work. Your video on replacing seals on a CAV injection pump helped me do mine on a MF 148. This video will help me understand what's involved with the rear axle of MF148 which I think only needs an inner oil seal replacement (leaking oil down the back of the wheel housing). I presume there is an inner oil seal on a MF 148 as I have yet to pull the axle out.
Thanks again, much appreciate you sharing your knowledge and expertise.
Keith Jervis
G Day Keith, Yes on the 148 you need to pull the axle out and just replace the inner seal. Nowhere near as difficult as the job here.
Lance, thanks for the confirmation that the jobs an easy one. Have a good day! 😊
Keith
Ace video Lance, gave me worlds of help overhauling the rear end on a Massey Ferguson 230 here in Kentucky.
Glad it helped.
Chip pan is genius, great video.
Thanks for watching!
Hey Bundy, Very helpful and useful for people learning how to do it. Cheers
G Day Pete, Glad you got something usefull from the clip.
Hi Lance.
Great video. Love the tractor work, it's helping me with all the snags on my massey ferguson 35.
Please keep up the good work.
G Day Laurence, Glad to see the vids are helping. I have a grey and gold petrol over here I restored a few years back now. Drop me a line if you need some help, I know those old girls well.
Pretty slick Lance on the seal, another way to get bearing cups out of a hole is to weld a short bead on race and it will fall out guess intence heat makes it draw up.
Joe Tiller yeah have welded many over the years, these are easy to get to the back of and not too tight. I often weld the bigger tractors though
Hi Fergyfreund, you have used the Prsse in the rings for the wheel bearings. If you do not have a press you can place the rings in the freezer the day before at 30 ° C - then take some oil and bring in the rings very easily. I always work with cold and warmth on the rear axle.
Your lectures are really great and I like to visit you. However, I had to destroy the wheel bearings.
I have only ever used the press. I see in the Fergy manual there is a puller for the job but I have not had the opportunity to use one.
YES THERE IS THAT SOMETHING, MY FRIEND HAS TO REMOVE WITH THE MAN WHEEL BEARING:
G'day Lance,I've just replaced the rear axle oil seals on my 1963 Landrover. Similar arrangement to the Fergy. It has Timkin bearings and I was pleased to note that they are stamped Made in Australia. I don't believe that we've made bearings in Australia for about 40 years. Sad, we don't even build any cars either. Love your videos Lance, bloo## good workRegards Dave Tointon
G Day Davet, I see the Australian ones from time to time in the old IHC tractors that were made in Geelong, but nothing seems to get made here now. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Top work from an old school fella.
Thanks Charles
G'day mate. I enjoyed the video today. I have replaced car bearings with my press but they don't need so much heat as that setup there. Keep on keeping on.
G Day Harrold, you need to get a lot of heat on that collar, I have had them stick half way and they are ruined. If you tap them on they stretch and come loose again.
Yes probably but you would not want much heat transfer.
Hello, super well explained. Thank you very much friend.
Thanks Ra Varo,
Great idea with the old cup / beltsander. Good stuff Lance!
Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Super good video
Thanks for the visit
Thanks for posting this informative video, well done fella!
Glad you liked it, the TE20 is very similar, get the chip cooker out lol
If I got the chip cooker out I would have to cook chippies, work would then come a long distance second.
cobbadog gar
Lance there is an easier way to remove the outer bearing cup. If I haden't have seen it with my own eyes I would not have believed it.
Using a stick welder with about a 3.2mm rod and around 140 amps run a bead of weld around the center of the race and let it cool for a few minutes. Flip the housing over and the cup will fall out. What happens is as the weld cools it contracts and shrinks the cup. You might find this handy one day when you come across a stubborn one that doesn't wanna be flogged out.
When heating the retainer, a good idea is to sit it on a brick, to insulate it from the table.
G day Peter, Yes I have welded bearing quite a bit in the past and it does work very well. I didn't go that way as I'm not sure all Fergy owners would have a welder. I do have more axles to do so it might be worth showing it as another way to get the job done.
I usually sit the retainer up off the big welding bench to stop heat loss but I just do happen to have a couple of fire bricks I was given recently so they might get used too.
Great Video. What is the minimum pound shop press you would recommend for my MF 35? 12,000Lb? 20,000Lb?
I had a 20 ton that struggled with some of the tight ones but others were quite easy so I suppose go as big as you can afford.
Very professional
Thankyou.
good work well done i need to do some on a TEF
bill block same job on all of them Bill
Thank you for showing this. I enjoyed the video just before I made the axles for my own MF35. You can see video of my restoration on my channel. Regards from Denmark.
G Day Poul, I will go and have a look
super! very good thanks
Hello Mister,
is there any chance that you've a video online where you show how to repair the cause of an oil leakage from the lower link hydraulics of an JD 1640 or similiar build?
I'm from Germany and one of your videos helped me a lot to repair an oil leakage on my lower steering weel part on my JD 1640.
so I hope you can help me out
I enjoy watching your channel
keep up the detail work
Greetings
Chris
Sounds just like sensing shaft seals. Ill see what I can do.
I need to replace the outer axle seal on a Ford 3600. The axles look similar to those. I haven't disassembled it yet. I dread if I have to go through all that for seals.
Good info, though. Thanks.
The Ford is a different set up the only thing to watch for is getting the outer seal sealing properly.
hello Lance I have Universal Tractor UTL640 the 3 point lifts keeps going up & down continuous ,what seems to be problems,everything works with hydraulic loader thx in advance
On the rh side under the seat is a Plus minus for sensitivity try screwing it out a bit as that can help.
Not too familiar with that axel arrangement, my question is, Is that the only time the axel bearing gets grease? Or is there a zerk on the tractor housing? Thanks, and thank you for sharing your experiences and knowledge.
Christina Moneyhan on this type that is the only time as it is a sealed compartment
How do you get the bearing properly packed once installed, a rubber tipped needle greaser on the end of your gun?
Hey Lance good video lots of help while restore my 135, I had lots of problems getting my bearings off so for the other side I want to get a plate cut like you have, how thick is the metal you used?
G Day Adam, I think mine is around 1" but that is just what was laying around, anything over 5/8 would work I think but I would go for 3/4.
Good job and video .
Thank you!
Do you reckon i could get away with heating the collars with map gas plumbers torch, and maybe keeping the axles very cold?
G Day Lee, I dont think map gas would get them hot enough but worth a try I suppose.
How much hot is the oil and howmeny time is the bearing inside? Thank Lance!
Oil is over 80deg c and I give it until the thermostat on the oil heater cycles a couple of times.
@@BundyBearsShed
Grazie Lance thank you.
Hi Lance, thank for your excellent instruction! Can I just pull out the axle from the housing after I have loosend the nuts? Or is there some nasty stuff inside like needle bearings?
And for my imagination: how far are the inner and outer seals apart? I might only need to replace the inner seals.
I have an early MF35 BTW.
Thanks, Rene
G Day Rene, Once you undo the bolts and remove the axle it should just slide out. Then you will need to remove the collar and bearing if you are doing the outer seal but just the inner there is no need to remove the collar.
Good job sir
Thankyou.
Hi Lance.
biggest problem I have had with my MF 35 is fitting new diesel fuel lines to old ports such as lift pump ports and getting a good seal on the compression joints. I recon that the old joints had been over tightened and probably deformed or scored the female port. any suggestions from you would be greatly appreciated. Thanks bud.
laurence Mills some of those had a rubber olive on them, if the pipe has a small straight section on the end it is a rubber olive one
i drill and tap rear bearing cage or housing add grease zerk can grease easy and yearly
G day Charlie, Yes the later ones did that but if someone is trying to stay original there is no need, another 60 years and they will need looking at again I suppose.
Very well worked.
thanks Gunter
This one is popular Lance 👍👍🇳🇿🇳🇿🇳🇿🇳🇿
Yes there is a few that seem to go well, the injection pump one I did a few years ago is up over 400K views now
very good thanks.
Hey lance
Have had axle bearing replaced one one is easy to turn and has some free play when you lift the hub up onto the bearing . The other one is very firm to turn and has no free play which one is correct
Could you please advise me on correct fitment
G Day Wayne, They should both have free play but it you used the leather type Sparex seal they are very tight and you will need to bump the bearing carrier up and down to feel the end float or on the tight one the lip of the seal has possibly been turned while fitting.
Nice Vid. Could we have a shop tour of your shop or shed. please!
G Day Jimmy , I will see what I can do, there is some earlier tours but things change a bit. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thanks.
Thanks for sharing!
Hello sir. I regularly monitor your channel where you are restoring the MF 35. So I'm wondering if you recorded the adjustment or replacement of the differential power transmission I can't find it on your channel.
No I dont think I have covered that yet.
@@BundyBearsShed If I understood you correctly, you still haven't recorded it and are you planning to record something like that. replacement and adjustment
gear pairs of differential transmission of power flow MF 35, if you understand what I mean.
do you have video of pulling the axle from the housing? I hear the locking diff. will fall off the shaft.
Tie your diff lock pedal down and the problem goes away
Hard case with the chip cooker, bet the manufacturer of the cooker didn't quite have that application in mind!
G Day Sam, No i dont expect they did buy they are missing a good sales opportunity Im sure lol,. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Is the 65 setup the same?
No Very different Im afraid. Im trying to get a mates tractor in to do his but he is in no hurry.
Why don't they just let the ttansmission oil lubricate the bearing instead of grease on the rear tyres I mean obviously oul is a much better lubricant!
They did that in the earlt tractors and when the seal leaked it was a major job getting the collar off buying new ones etc so this way you can replace the inner seal very quickly. Grease is good though just look at the front wheel bearings on a car.
love it
Thanks
How does the oil get out to the axle bearing?
You grease it.
Kiitos!
Thankyou.
Fajny kanał szkoda ,że nic nie rozumiem co mówisz ,jednak obraz dobrze rozumiem ,pozdrawiam
At least you get something from it.
5145 oil beak century
Should have cooked some chips while bearing was heating, just kidding.
G Day Joe, The thought has passed my mind, Im sure olive oil would heat a bearing just as well.
Was ist das denn für eine Scheißkonstruktion, wenn die Lager nicht im Ölbad laufen.
It seems to have worked for years.