Remembering the days when the only things you need for servicing (apart from the replacement parts and fluids) was a brain and common sense. No Laptops or chips. Great Stuff Richard.
Even after 50 years of working with machinery and massey ferguson tractors I can learn from your experience and way of doing things. I also do generators and regulators as an extra, was trained in electrics. CHEERS 😊
6:08 Have you heard of a dip stick having 3 lines on it? We have a Ferguson 35 (grey-gold) and it has 3 lines and I have no idea what level the oil should be pre-cold start. It's a 4 cylinder diesel believed to be a very early one, with a suggestion it was the 8th one built if I'm recalling correctly from when it was bought some time ago now. Poor health means the person who used to service it doesn't any longer, but I think they just filled it to the top line so I can't be confident that's right (other shortcuts like engine oil in the transmission/hydraulic system of other tractors was also common practice). It's a working farm tractor still, but has developed a thick 'anti-corrosion' coating that I can't be sure hasn't come from overfilling.
It dose not come to mind. There are three makes on the dipstick on the tractor in the video but I guess you mean there is something different. I almost said in the video I only use the lines as a guide. It is not necessary to keep them on the top mark. No I am not saying for one moment to not check it. Or even add oil. But I have found over the years that an engine will find its own level. That level can be anywhere in the lines. With modern tractor oils you just have to be careful with the additives that they now put in with the oils.
@@Mr_b_yorkshire_farmer Yes, it's different to the one shown. For that time stamp, the lines across the dipstick are vertical lines due to how it is being held obviously. The dipstick our 35 has has 3 of those lines without any other markings. They're not accompanied with the 'MIN' and '
In the past when I have had a new seal fail there has always been another problem causing it. Like too much where somewhere. Also I find it no help when vehicles are stud for long periods and the seals become flat and once warmed though they then work
I am sure you have to put oil in the centre section so that the oil is directly below the downward flow of air and it catches any dust particles. The top of the air intake has slots cut in it to make the air swirl around as it’s drawn down in a cyclone effect.
Agreed but gloves can also be just as harmful I find from sweating opening your pours and allowing spilt oils into your skin. It all depends on the persons hands in question
Remembering the days when the only things you need for servicing (apart from the replacement parts and fluids) was a brain and common sense. No Laptops or chips. Great Stuff Richard.
Even after 50 years of working with machinery and massey ferguson tractors I can learn from your experience and way of doing things. I also do generators and regulators as an extra, was trained in electrics. CHEERS 😊
Its a smart little tractor, loved the way you shot onto the footpath.
Good to see drain plug had a magnetic tip to hopefully catch any iron filings floating around in oil
Thanks for a great video, I did mine last year (fully restored 1958 petrol 35) 🙂
Great vid buddy keep em coming
Great video lads.
Very good and thorough!
Good to hear from you again, hope you’re doing well
Yes doing ok thank you.
Excellent video old lad and can I get my cap back at some point hahah
Great Video Richard & a great Camera man Lenny, jammy bugger with the bleed up lol, hope my Rolls bleeds up has good.
Give me a shout if you need a hand.
Thank you Richard
👍👍
Have you done a video on wiring up the lights? I've a 35 with front and back lights but not wired in yet.
I have not no. I can do one tho when It comes to wiring up my 65. Thank you for the thought
Great video. Can you do a zerk tip video sometime pretty please for massey 35?
Do some service work on the TEF as well please
Muito bom ,gostei do caprixo parabéns
She is a beauty
6:08 Have you heard of a dip stick having 3 lines on it? We have a Ferguson 35 (grey-gold) and it has 3 lines and I have no idea what level the oil should be pre-cold start. It's a 4 cylinder diesel believed to be a very early one, with a suggestion it was the 8th one built if I'm recalling correctly from when it was bought some time ago now. Poor health means the person who used to service it doesn't any longer, but I think they just filled it to the top line so I can't be confident that's right (other shortcuts like engine oil in the transmission/hydraulic system of other tractors was also common practice). It's a working farm tractor still, but has developed a thick 'anti-corrosion' coating that I can't be sure hasn't come from overfilling.
It dose not come to mind. There are three makes on the dipstick on the tractor in the video but I guess you mean there is something different. I almost said in the video I only use the lines as a guide. It is not necessary to keep them on the top mark. No I am not saying for one moment to not check it. Or even add oil. But I have found over the years that an engine will find its own level. That level can be anywhere in the lines. With modern tractor oils you just have to be careful with the additives that they now put in with the oils.
@@Mr_b_yorkshire_farmer Yes, it's different to the one shown. For that time stamp, the lines across the dipstick are vertical lines due to how it is being held obviously. The dipstick our 35 has has 3 of those lines without any other markings. They're not accompanied with the 'MIN' and '
not herd from you for a wile hope you are doing well are you still on the farm pal
Is it possible to fix a leak from the main rear if replacing the seals? I have tried once, but still a minor leak. Any tips?
In the past when I have had a new seal fail there has always been another problem causing it. Like too much where somewhere. Also I find it no help when vehicles are stud for long periods and the seals become flat and once warmed though they then work
I have been filling up the centre section of the oil bath bowl for the last 35 years! Am I wrong?
If I am honest. I honestly do not no? As far as I am aware you fill the outside.
I am sure you have to put oil in the centre section so that the oil is directly below the downward flow of air and it catches any dust particles. The top of the air intake has slots cut in it to make the air swirl around as it’s drawn down in a cyclone effect.
Oil should be in the centre of the bowl. That's why the holes are there to let it in.
At the tractor club tonight. They all say you fill the outside.
Thanks for asking. The plot thickens!@@Mr_b_yorkshire_farmer
Nice video, where did you get the chrome bits, you should wear disposable gloves when handling waste oil and diesel.
Agreed but gloves can also be just as harmful I find from sweating opening your pours and allowing spilt oils into your skin. It all depends on the persons hands in question
@@Mr_b_yorkshire_farmer that's a very nice 35x
We had the chrome but done. That’s my dad’s obsession
Who supplies the old style CAV filters?
Queensberry tractor parts
should fill the oil filter with oil b4 for you install it 😢
The correct procedure is never to pre fill a filter with oil to avoid any contamination