I struggled fitting the seal untill I bit the bullet and worked my way around the leading edge with pliers creating a taper (only slightly) then I got on ok. But still pretty blooming tight. Thanks for the vid. It convinced me that I'd got the right seals .
Good Job. I'm about to install the same type of seal for the TE20 project that has been slow progress. But it keeps me busy and out of trouble. I also watch Lance on Bundy Bears Shed. TTFN/CDC
Hi Charles, these are wonderful inventions! They save so much work, but do take care to get them started as straight as possible. They are an extremely tight fit so any movement away from centre is exaggerated easily. These are slow projects, genuinely labours of love, so take your time and have fun! 🙂👍
I am trying to install those seals right now and it is unbelievable difficult to get them into the seat. If you push them in with a hammer on one side and push on the other then the seal comes up again where you pushed it in first. This is the second video I watch where everything is visible but the part that shows how to get it in place is skipped. Sad.
Hi, yes they are tough to get in, exactly as you described. You just need to persevere with it moving around the perimeter slowly and methodically. Another idea I had afterwards was to make a wooden “helper”. Basically a longish plank wider than the seal by at least 2” and at least 1” thick or perhaps a little more. Drill a hole just a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the seal. Bring it down over the shaft and then hit it on alternating sides to encourage the seal in. The idea being that it will help to hold down the side that is already started whilst you work on the other side. Hope this helps. 👍😉
Removing a damaged key from a drive shaft or in this case a brake lever shaft. Have you tried griping the key in a big vice with good jaws and levering the shaft up and down?
Hi Gordon - I think I have a similar issue with oil leaking into the brake drum through the bearing seal. Adding sure seals would hopefully stop oil getting from the transmission to the brake drum, but would not seem to prevent the new grease from getting through the old leaking seal into the drum? Thanks! Jack
Hi Jack, it’s possible you may get a small amount of leakage from the grease, we will need to see how it goes, but from what I hear people have been very happy with the results. The other route of course is to replace the seal, the bearings and the locking ring. Our bearings were good and this was a much easier and quicker solution. 😉👍
I need to replace the back plates on my 135 and have to pull the axles and wondered if I "can or need to" fit Sure Seals in this way. Doing all this on my first tractor rebuild and the learning curve is going past vertical. Thanks.
Hi Lloyd, seeing as you’re there you might as well. They can’t hurt anything and instead will prevent any future leaks from the old seals. Just check that the beating behind the old seal is still serviceable. You want to spin the bearing both fast and slowly, feeling and listening for any sign of “roughness” or “resistance” in the bearing. If you detect any you should consider changing the bearings too. That said these are, in engineering terms very slow turning parts, so the bearings are not being stressed much, so they do tend to last a fair while. Hope this helps. If I can help in any other way please just ask.
@@WaterhouseForde If you have the time I'd be grateful if you explain how you removed the brake yoke from the cross shaft, The shaft looks identical to yours and I cannot find any other clue to it's fastening to the shaft other than there must be a shaft key. I'm still waiting for the manuals to help me proceed. Many thanks
Hi Lloyd, If by "yoke" you mean the lever assembly at the 'tractor' end of the shaft. These are indeed keyed to the shaft. Removing them is tough, but with a bit of heat and using a drift you can get them off. If you have a large enough press - you can use that, but otherwise just give it some focussed attention both with heat and a decent drift.
I struggled fitting the seal untill I bit the bullet and worked my way around the leading edge with pliers creating a taper (only slightly) then I got on ok. But still pretty blooming tight. Thanks for the vid. It convinced me that I'd got the right seals .
Ha ha, yep they are buggers to get started! You’re welcome Paul! 👍😉
Great invention the sure seal, they have saved many people a lot of work.
Good Job. I'm about to install the same type of seal for the TE20 project that has been slow progress. But it keeps me busy and out of trouble. I also watch Lance on Bundy Bears Shed. TTFN/CDC
Hi Charles, these are wonderful inventions! They save so much work, but do take care to get them started as straight as possible. They are an extremely tight fit so any movement away from centre is exaggerated easily. These are slow projects, genuinely labours of love, so take your time and have fun! 🙂👍
I am trying to install those seals right now and it is unbelievable difficult to get them into the seat. If you push them in with a hammer on one side and push on the other then the seal comes up again where you pushed it in first. This is the second video I watch where everything is visible but the part that shows how to get it in place is skipped. Sad.
Hi, yes they are tough to get in, exactly as you described. You just need to persevere with it moving around the perimeter slowly and methodically. Another idea I had afterwards was to make a wooden “helper”. Basically a longish plank wider than the seal by at least 2” and at least 1” thick or perhaps a little more. Drill a hole just a bit smaller than the outer diameter of the seal. Bring it down over the shaft and then hit it on alternating sides to encourage the seal in. The idea being that it will help to hold down the side that is already started whilst you work on the other side. Hope this helps. 👍😉
Removing a damaged key from a drive shaft or in this case a brake lever shaft. Have you tried griping the key in a big vice with good jaws and levering the shaft up and down?
Hi Max - Good idea. I can't recall now if I tried that - but it sounds like it would work! 😉👍
Hi Gordon - I think I have a similar issue with oil leaking into the brake drum through the bearing seal. Adding sure seals would hopefully stop oil getting from the transmission to the brake drum, but would not seem to prevent the new grease from getting through the old leaking seal into the drum? Thanks! Jack
Hi Jack, it’s possible you may get a small amount of leakage from the grease, we will need to see how it goes, but from what I hear people have been very happy with the results. The other route of course is to replace the seal, the bearings and the locking ring. Our bearings were good and this was a much easier and quicker solution. 😉👍
@@WaterhouseForde sure seals arrived today so will see how it goes, thanks!
I need to replace the back plates on my 135 and have to pull the axles and wondered if I "can or need to" fit Sure Seals in this way. Doing all this on my first tractor rebuild and the learning curve is going past vertical. Thanks.
Hi Lloyd, seeing as you’re there you might as well. They can’t hurt anything and instead will prevent any future leaks from the old seals. Just check that the beating behind the old seal is still serviceable. You want to spin the bearing both fast and slowly, feeling and listening for any sign of “roughness” or “resistance” in the bearing. If you detect any you should consider changing the bearings too. That said these are, in engineering terms very slow turning parts, so the bearings are not being stressed much, so they do tend to last a fair while. Hope this helps. If I can help in any other way please just ask.
@@WaterhouseForde If you have the time I'd be grateful if you explain how you removed the brake yoke from the cross shaft, The shaft looks identical to yours and I cannot find any other clue to it's fastening to the shaft other than there must be a shaft key. I'm still waiting for the manuals to help me proceed.
Many thanks
Hi Lloyd, If by "yoke" you mean the lever assembly at the 'tractor' end of the shaft. These are indeed keyed to the shaft. Removing them is tough, but with a bit of heat and using a drift you can get them off. If you have a large enough press - you can use that, but otherwise just give it some focussed attention both with heat and a decent drift.
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